Every 60k for me, but for a lot of folks those pan bolts can be a real bear. In northern climates they’ll rust - then break coming out. I’d leave those alone.
What would be your recommendation on this. 2014 Tundra 140,000 miles and don’t think the trans has had any services. I’m the second owner. This truck lives in California so no salt on roads. Should I do a drain and fill or drop pan and do everything? Thanks for the help.
@GFYM OK so this is a tricky situation because of the mileage. Personally I would drop the pan and change filter and fluid but. Sometimes when a transmission has not been serviced for a lot of miles and you drain the fluid the transmission has the potential for failure. I would still service it just giving you a heads up.
We could add a better solution. Figure out the cold tranny fill amount, then drain while cool and fill same amount every time.. no wasting fluid or time figuring out the level..
Hey Steve, Im a yota tech, I use a mightyvac mv6400 pump to fill from underneath. Even though I'm a tech, I do appreciate you showing folks stuff like this.
Hi Steve, I'm trying to change my transmission fluid and then I figured it out above the termostat there's no plug the I can push and put the pin. How can I check the level of the fluid after?2021 toyota tundra
I got completed this process as you described. I didn’t care much for the adapter from Walmart, just the extended 5/8” tubing and a funnel would work better and less mess. Thanks for your video, it gave me confidence for DIY projects on my truck. 👍
If the filler bolt for reason can't be unscrewed, you can use a bottle rubber stopper and drill a hole size in middle that fit a vinyl tube and plug into the drain hole. Pump new ws fluid through the tube inside with same amount plus 1/4 quart that drained out. Because when you unplug the rubber stopper and screw the drain plug back the extra 1/4 quart to compensate for the fluid lost
I had a $140 drill pump in my shopping cart for what would undoubtably be a once or twice in a lifetime usage when I saw your video. Thanks for doing this video with this cost saving method of filling the transmission!
Thanks for a great video including part numbers and torque settings too. I appreciate you showing how close a temp. gun is compared to going online with an expensive ODB tool.
I just hit 100k on mine. And I plan on doing a drain and fill on the transmission.. thanks for the video this definitely gives me the confidence to DIY
I have been using amsoil fs transmission fluid version, in my work tundra since 70 k miles, it now has 250k. Tows a 7000 lbs trailer full time, still shifts great. One suggestion, measure what you take out, then just put the same amount back in, much easier.
NEVER EVER REMOVE the drain bolt UNTIL you've LOOSENED the FILL PLUG FIRST. Gonna be a bad day if you've already drained the fluid and can not loosen or remove the fill plug. 👍 Also a drain and fill on a Tundra should only take 4qts max .Flush or any other method will take more
I’m glad I decided to check the fill and level plugs first. The fill plug was difficult, the check plug was rusted so bad a 5mm spins free, 5.5mm won’t fit.
Man I'm jealous of the lack of rust! I just had to replace my transmission pan and all 12 bolts because of the rust. Even had to drill out 6 of the bolts that got corroded, installing helicoils to make it work! Great video!
@@ToolDemos That's a fine state you live in! I'm thinking of moving there myself 💪🏻 great video once again and I'll be checking out more of your content!
Glad I found this video! I've read on the forums that folks like to use Valvoline Max Life for the higher mileage Tundras like mine. I'll definitely be using this method you did!
Great video with a lot of cool tips. Great camera placement too! Def grabbing that funnel from Wally World. I’ve used ONLY Valvoline Maxlife in Toyota 5.7, 3.5, and 4.7 engines. I’ll never understand the fascination with the WS. The heat range for Maxlife is better. Plenty of info on the net about this and now, remarkably, the price of the WS has gone down.
Thanks. I won’t argue the specs on your fluid, it probably is better. I’m just being extra cautious because in some cars you could cause problems by switching brands.
The AB60 transmission manual shows a graph that compares Viscosity vs. Temperature among WS and regular ATF fluids. The WS fluid has a different curve than regular ATFs. And the transmission is designed to work with the WS fluid curve, as it will have a different friction coefficient at colder temps than normal ATF.
Toyota told me that a special tool was used to replace the transmission fluid, and only Toyota was able to do it. (Sure 😏) I'm about to do mine very soon, your video is very helpful thanks for the info, mine is a 08 Tundra V6 4.0 with 70,890 miles, and she is a champion, and leaves the coma taco (eat taco), ahem I mean Tacoma behind, always starts right away, doesn't burn oil, and she's s always hungry for a trip. Bless you all
I think I'll make sure I can get my fill plug out, before removing drain plug. I also plan on measuring exactly how much I can get out, and put exactly that much back in.
Thats what I did with my Titan XD. It does have a dip stick but I still measured what I removed and added the same amount of new fluid to prevent under/over filling it.
If you’re doing this in cold weather, it’s going to take quite a while for the D light to come on once you’re in check mode. I did this in 46 degree F weather, with a stiff north wind. It took about 40 minutes. I actually thought I did something wrong. The transmission temp gauge was about 1/3 of the way up when the D light finally lit up. I suspected the cold weather may have been the issue, so I feathered the throttle a bit to increase heat output. It worked.
You can also go through the inner fender on the driver side. Plus there's a 1 quart jug you can get thar allows you to pour the transmission fluid into it and then open the bottom to add to the transmission
Your video saved me 100's of $$ when my son changed the oil in my 06 Tundra 4wd. He saw the drain plug, removed it and drained the oil which turned out to be the ATF as he never saw a drain plug on a trans pan before and was rushing thru the task. When he realized what he did he quickly put the drain plug back in place. Once I couldn't find the nonexistent dipstick and filler tube, I called my friend who has been building tranny's for over 40 years and he told me Tundra's were a "cluster f$%k" and advised me to sell that POS which I did. As if planned by the Toyota stealership they advised a complete trans service for over 400.00$ and refused to add the required amount. SOLD!!! Thank you. Thank you!!
I have put a collective 600k miles on 3 Toyotas with sealed transmissions and never had one transmission issue. Interesting getting rid of a dependable vehicle over a $400 service you may do only once or twice during the entire time you own it. 🤷🏻♂
Toyota trucks have some of the best, if not the best transmissions. I know of two separate million mile tundras used for oilfield hot shots that were regularly overloaded and regularly towed more than the rated capacity and both transmission were trouble free to over 700k miles. One lost reverse at 770k miles and it turned out to be a solenoid. The other at over 700k miles had a flutter going to 3rd gear. The giy had it rebuilt, but the tech said it just needed a fluid and filter change as it wasn't worn that bad. All vehicles have done away with transmission dipsticks. My Titan XD with the cummins oddly still does have a dipstick.
Great video clear & simple. I bought 19 TRD with 80k. I don't know history etc. Mechanics tell me not to mess with changing fluid. So confused. What do most owners recommend? I don't feel confident to tackle alone
Thanks for that. If you want Toyota‘s opinion, check out your manual. It has service intervals for all the fluids in your car. It doesn’t recommend transmission service under normal conditions, but what they call severe conditions you’ll find fluid changes. Severe conditions include towing, hauling heavy loads, or driving on dirt roads.
1 correction. ALWAYS undo the FILL plug FIRST... otherwise you will have to turn your truck upside down to fill it. Also. When you do this COLD COLD COLD. use a little plastic 10qt bucket that has measurements on the side. Whatever you take out, simply replace. Saves the time of doing the whole temp thing. Foolproof as long as you dont mix up qts with Liters lol
Thank you for this video. I just got a 2019 tundra for towing. Have up my trd pro 2019 tacoma. And I'm glad i did all required maint. The previous owner didn't really do well on maint
Because then I’m trusting the last guy who filled it. Also, I’m not real good with pouring oil without spilling. If I tried to measure it, I’d just make a mess.
You're very good at these videos, please keep making them! I want to do all the service and repair work on our 2014 Tundra myself - I get that mechanics are professionals and their work is valued, BUT I'm sick of being taken for a ride for what often ends up being half-assed jobs. This new video is great. But why didn't you remove the pan to drain out the liter or so of fluid from the bottom-most area where the magnets reside? To replace the strainer, too?
Thanks Benjamin. I like this way for two reasons: 1. The bolts on the trans pan are known to get rusty and they break when you attempt to remove them. 2. I think a fresh 5 quarts of trans fluid every couple oil changes is more beneficial than the occasional strainer replacement. Because this job is so easy now, I’ll have time to do it more often.
That strainer really only stops slivers and chunks. The magnets do a pretty good job reducing the number of steel particles over time. If you get"glitter" upon popping the drain plug, further investigation is warranted.
Hmmm, now I’ve seen other videos that put the flat side of the crush washer on the transmission. Does anyone actually know the CORRECT way to place these types of gaskets/seals?
I used the Covid temp gun on “surface temp” mode. Pointed right at the atf leaving the level hole. Could see the temp of oil very easy this way and didn’t have to buy anything else. When I pointed at pan could tell runs way cooler and your 10 degree less approximation is about right.
Is it a good idea to remove the check plug before it’s reached 104°? I would think accurate level depends on waiting till you’re at the correct temperature.🤷🏻♂️
As the fluid warms up, it expands. The expansion causes more fluid to spill out. So, if you remove the plug before the fluid warms up, it will just spill out some, but not enough. Once it has warmed up, just replace the plug.
I had a complete blonde moment and drained out some of my transmission fluid instead of my engine oil🤦♂️ I’ve put about 4 quarts back in but it still hasn’t overflowed through the fluid overflow bolt. I swear I hadn’t taken out that much and thought it to be about 2 quarts. Any advice?
Great video but I did find using a pump a lot easier. Yes, you spend a few dollars but it’s worth it. I also don’t understand the temp requirement. If you drain the oil when the engine is cool and put in the same amount drained, you don’t need to do the temp check. (The fluid temp is the same so same amount in that came out.) Just run the truck for a bit and shift gears slowly when done.
I was ready to do a complete drain (flush), filter (strainer) replacement, gasket replacement, and fill. About 12 qt of fluid replacement. In an earlier video you did the complete flush. Did you make this video because folks broke bolts or is this a good way for the life of the vehicle? In my area snow and salt and loads of rust are not issues. I bought used. 118k miles, 2018 Tundra Limited, 5.7 FFV. No history on prior owner but truck looked new if that is any indicator on prior care.
I like this method because it’s less complicated and as you mentioned, you’re less likely to get into trouble. I think it’s also a psychological thing because if the job is easy to do, you’re more likely to do it. That being said it’s probably not a bad idea to clean that pan out every once in a while. As long as those bolts don’t look too rusty.
The tool description says the Autel scanner is no longer a reliable source. Can you tell us the scanner model number? I’m looking for the cheapest scanner that has the transmission temp PID, and it isn’t very easy to find. Thanks!
It’s the MaxiDiag Elite (no part number). The updated version is no good. Here’s a full-function scanner that’s much better, pretty inexpensive, and is Toyota/Lexus specific: amzn.to/3HfSX1r I really like mine, made a video on it: ua-cam.com/video/lQbfb9yv5JM/v-deo.htmlsi=QpFHN1GfeJtns95L
Good morning question I have a 2008 tundra 5.7 V8 and I happen to get codes P0761 which states shift solenoid C performance or stuck off and code P2714 Pressure solenoid D performance or stuck off. My intentions are to replace those both solenoids,transmission filter/O ring and pan gasket as well as replacing the drain/check plug crush washers and almost forgot as well replace the fill plug O Ring and put in new fresh WS transmission fluid back in. What’s ur opinion on me doing this please?
OK here’s my opinion, take it for what it’s worth. It would seem to me that your transmission is high mileage and possibly hasn’t seen many oil changes. It’s likely that your transmission fluid is going to be sludged up at this point. I say this to get to my point, which is there is a high likelihood that your valve body is getting plugged up with debris. Sometimes, when that happens, it’s possible to solve the problem by flushing the transmission with new fluid, sometimes not. Replacing all that fluid could lead to other problems like your transmission slipping. Transmission diagnostics can be a very tricky thing and I am certainly not an expert. My recommendation would be to give the fluid change a shot, assuming you are willing to take that risk. If you still have issues, then consider taking it to a very good transmission shop to get a solid diagnosis.
Appreciate the response and forgot to mention that I used to b a tech for toyota so maintenance wise my truck is tip top including the tranny 😉. Did what I wrote n the first comment today it was a bit time consuming but I made it happen. All I have left to do is fill the transmission tomorrow with the WS atf fluid and check the level of it and am hoping that should fix my issue. @ least I got the heavy work out of the way today/tonight was going to fill it up tonight but the time caught and the flies started coming out plus I didn’t want to make a mess and not see what i was doing so tomorrow morning it is. I have 10 and 1/4 of another quarts n total so am hoping I have enough tranny fluid for tomorrow 😬
If Toyota wanted to have these transmissions serviced, they would have put it on their scheduled maintenance charts but they're not. Over 200k on mine and never been serviced, no slipping or hesitation, runs like a Tundra should.
@@Crickeybeoch first, a warning: It would be better for your transmission if you never changed the fluid than to run it dry. The fastest way to destroy a transmission is to run it without fluid in it. That being said, the answer to your question is yes. In the front of the transmission and connected to the input shaft is the hydraulic pump. When the engine turns, that pump circulates fluid throughout the entire system, then back into the sump.
I don’t understand the temp range given to check the fluid. Trans fluid expands. Trans temps can reach 185°. Does the fluid stop expanding at 113°? If not … why not let it get to maximum temperature and then check it? Is this the same for other manufacturers?
Toyota decided to give us a break, and let us check the fluid without burning our arms on hot exhaust. Different car makes and models have different temperature ranges, I’m glad this one is on the cooler side.
@@ToolDemos Okay. What about the continued expansion? Toyota must have compensated somehow with the overflow tube. Thanks for responding. I really appreciate it.
@@seanmclaughlin7415 yes, it will continue to expand, but the overflow tube’s length is designed for the temperature spec given. If you let it warm up to full temp, too much fluid will pour out.
I just boight a 2018 with 139k miles. Should i do a drain and fill, drain and replace the filter, or not touch it? Some people say if its been to long you shouldnt touch because it'll knock too much dirt loose
Thanks. First Toyotas answer, according to them dropping the pan is not a necessary part of maintenance. In my opinion, maybe every hundred thousand miles or so, with a warning. The bolts holding the pan on, are known to get pretty rusty if you live in an area where rust is a problem. If you see that, I would stay away from it unless you were ready to deal with a lot of broken bolts.
I’ve heard there is no cooler on the 2020 Tundra, as people have had issues with towing so some have actually added a cooler. So if that’s the case I shouldn’t need the pin. Can anyone confirm this?
I did my fluid drain and fill today. I'm not sure I got a faulty transmission filler from Walmart, but the black connector only securely screwed on the ATF WS quarts for two of them. I ended up pouring the next quart into one of the containers that it fit - if that makes sense. I think next time I'll use the hand pump. Question though on drain amount, fill amount and Overflow check to trickle. I drained 4 quarts (just a tad below the mark). I filled with 5 quarts. However, what drained out during the Overflow to a trickle was 2 quarts?! The math doesn't make sense to me. Tests drive is fine. The transmission temp guage was at normal and no slipping. Thoughts?
@ToolDemos yes the engine was running at the checked temperature. I did both the wire in the obd2 and confirmed with a laser temp (this was about 5 to 7 degrees different, my guess). The "D" was solid as I did my overflow drain. The trickle came then the "D" started flashing.
Yup: strainer part number: 35330-0C020 Strainer o-ring: 90301-31014 Pan gasket: 35168-34020 And for DIY scanner on Toyota (only), I really like this one from Launch: amzn.to/3wB6KND Here’s my review of it: ua-cam.com/video/lQbfb9yv5JM/v-deo.htmlsi=KhnXPwTZVuY5rA9Y
@tooldemos I was reading online that to change the transmission fluid on the Tundra. I noticed you only used 6 qts, yet it calls for 11-12 qts. Am I missing something here?
That’s exactly the way you should do it. Why buy that drill pump? I bought a new fill nut from Toyota and drilled it out to accept the tubing like you have. Totally gravity fed, simple and cheap. Use a funnel attached to tubing and hung from hood
The best way I can answer your question is by giving you a link to Autel vehicle coverage page. If the tool you are looking for covers your vehicle, it will show you here: autel.com/us/vehicle-coverage/
They must’ve removed that function in the latest update. I’m removing the link so nobody else buys it. Your best option is return it to Amazon and check Autel’s website (or another brand) to find a tool that has the coverage you need.
Changing the filter wouldn’t hurt, I still do it about every 4th service. Just make sure the bolts holding up your pan aren’t rusty. They tend to break.
Wow, so many questions… Not to sharpshoot you at all. Can we remove pan to change filter and clean magnets? Can we just measure what we removed and replace the same amount? There will be an over spill either way. Doesn’t the amount we add get contaminated as soon as the new oil mixes? I’ve had it flushed by the dealership once in my 2010 Tundras 180k lifetime. I was thinking of having it flushed again by the dealership, then I come behind them and remove pan, replace filter and clean magnets. I see less contamination that way. I don’t see why the oil needs to be at a certain degree, maybe for expansion, but does older oil expand less or more than newer oil? I love this 2010 Tundra, and I’m going to drive it until the wheels fall off, then replace them.
You can remove the pan if you choose, two things to keep in mind. 1: adding more steps to the job means you do it less often. 2: The pan bolts can get rusty and might break when you try to loosen them. As far as measuring the new fluid: 1: fluid expands with heat, so they have an established range to check the level. 2: relying on measuring the old fluid means you have to trust the level was correct from the last job and that you capture all of the spilled fluid. Hope this helps.
That could be risky. As you know, changing the fluid won’t harm your transmission, but it could reveal some wear that already exists. Sometimes higher mileage transmissions will slip after you’ve done the service.
I have a 2011 5.7 that I’m sure has never had the fluid changed (I got it at 120k it’s at 170k now). If it were your truck would you recommend changing the fluid or just leave it how it is?
If it were my truck, I would just try to get as many miles out of that transmission as is. If you change the fluid now, you’d run the risk of developing problems like slipping.
Do you put 100% fresh fluid ? Or do you use some of the old fluid and and just add some fresh fluid ? Just trying to learn what to do. I heard 100% fresh fluid can cause the transmission to slip
Fresh fluid cannot harm your transmission. Although if you do a first fluid change on a high mileage transmission it could begin slipping. That transmission was already on its way out, the new fluid just revealed it.
@@ToolDemos I bought a 2010 tundra recently and idk if it has been done before. Maintenance history said nothing about it. So should I not change it at all?
Thank you for sharing Steve. How often do you replace the transmission filter?
Every 60k for me, but for a lot of folks those pan bolts can be a real bear. In northern climates they’ll rust - then break coming out. I’d leave those alone.
What would be your recommendation on this. 2014 Tundra 140,000 miles and don’t think the trans has had any services. I’m the second owner. This truck lives in California so no salt on roads. Should I do a drain and fill or drop pan and do everything?
Thanks for the help.
@GFYM OK so this is a tricky situation because of the mileage. Personally I would drop the pan and change filter and fluid but. Sometimes when a transmission has not been serviced for a lot of miles and you drain the fluid the transmission has the potential for failure. I would still service it just giving you a heads up.
I have the shop do the flush & refill 4 times every 50-60k already for 09 Taco 205,000 miles never drop the pan !
This by far the best video as to how to change the oil in the Toyota Tundra transmission. Well explained step by step. Congratulations.
Thanks! I really appreciate you saying that.
We could add a better solution. Figure out the cold tranny fill amount, then drain while cool and fill same amount every time.. no wasting fluid or time figuring out the level..
Hey Steve, Im a yota tech, I use a mightyvac mv6400 pump to fill from underneath. Even though I'm a tech, I do appreciate you showing folks stuff like this.
Thanks Mark. Is that filler faster than a drill pump?
Haven't tried it with a drill pump. You pump the mv up like a garden sprayer and it will fill the trans in 2-5 minutes.
Hi Steve, I'm trying to change my transmission fluid and then I figured it out above the termostat there's no plug the I can push and put the pin. How can I check the level of the fluid after?2021 toyota tundra
@@randygonzales6760Toyota removed the transmission cooler after the 2018’s
@@jasonpeters9484do they still have the thermostat plunger? I have a 2020 I’m looking to do
Wow, everything was done correctly without skipping steps like so many other UA-cam authors do. Great job!
Thanks
I got completed this process as you described. I didn’t care much for the adapter from Walmart, just the extended 5/8” tubing and a funnel would work better and less mess. Thanks for your video, it gave me confidence for DIY projects on my truck. 👍
I’m glad to hear that. Cheers!
Worked great! Thanks for sharing. getting a pin in the trans cooler was the most difficult.
Glad to hear it. Yeah, that pin is a bugger.
If the filler bolt for reason can't be unscrewed, you can use a bottle rubber stopper and drill a hole size in middle that fit a vinyl tube and plug into the drain hole. Pump new ws fluid through the tube inside with same amount plus 1/4 quart that drained out. Because when you unplug the rubber stopper and screw the drain plug back the extra 1/4 quart to compensate for the fluid lost
I have 08 tundra with 250,000 miles. I have only changed the trans fluid 3 times and about to do it the for the 4th time. Never a problem!
Awesome! I love Toyota reliability.
I had a $140 drill pump in my shopping cart for what would undoubtably be a once or twice in a lifetime usage when I saw your video. Thanks for doing this video with this cost saving method of filling the transmission!
Glad I could help 👍
Thanks for a great video including part numbers and torque settings too.
I appreciate you showing how close a temp. gun is compared to going online with an expensive ODB tool.
I appreciate that.
to be fair, the OBD data stream tools nowadays are $20 and will get the job done
That was an EXCELLENT video. I'm glad you overfilled it to demonstrate how to rid the excess fluid. Much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful. Thank you.
I just hit 100k on mine. And I plan on doing a drain and fill on the transmission.. thanks for the video this definitely gives me the confidence to DIY
Glad it helped, I hope it goes well for ya.
I have been using amsoil fs transmission fluid version, in my work tundra since 70 k miles, it now has 250k.
Tows a 7000 lbs trailer full time, still shifts great.
One suggestion, measure what you take out, then just put the same amount back in, much easier.
Great info, thanks.
NEVER EVER REMOVE the drain bolt UNTIL you've LOOSENED the FILL PLUG FIRST. Gonna be a bad day if you've already drained the fluid and can not loosen or remove the fill plug. 👍 Also a drain and fill on a Tundra should only take 4qts max .Flush or any other method will take more
Well said
Yeah, you’re correct but calm down about it. Don’t be that guy.
@@Couchlover47warning never should be calm 😅
Just learned this the hard way....lol
Why? This makes no sense
I’m glad I decided to check the fill and level plugs first. The fill plug was difficult, the check plug was rusted so bad a 5mm spins free, 5.5mm won’t fit.
That sucks!
@@ToolDemos an easy out got it free, and it was a nice day to walk 2 miles to my local dealer. Overall it went good for not going right.
@@rydplrs71 I’m glad it worked out.
Man I'm jealous of the lack of rust! I just had to replace my transmission pan and all 12 bolts because of the rust. Even had to drill out 6 of the bolts that got corroded, installing helicoils to make it work! Great video!
Oh no! That must’ve sucked. I’ll remember to appreciate living in Florida.
@@ToolDemos That's a fine state you live in! I'm thinking of moving there myself 💪🏻 great video once again and I'll be checking out more of your content!
Just a tip. Always remove the fill plug before the drain plug. If you drain the pan but cant remove the fill plug you may be walking.
Very good pointer!
Glad I found this video! I've read on the forums that folks like to use Valvoline Max Life for the higher mileage Tundras like mine. I'll definitely be using this method you did!
Glad it helped.
Great video with a lot of cool tips. Great camera placement too! Def grabbing that funnel from Wally World.
I’ve used ONLY Valvoline Maxlife in Toyota 5.7, 3.5, and 4.7 engines. I’ll never understand the fascination with the WS. The heat range for Maxlife is better. Plenty of info on the net about this and now, remarkably, the price of the WS has gone down.
Thanks. I won’t argue the specs on your fluid, it probably is better. I’m just being extra cautious because in some cars you could cause problems by switching brands.
The AB60 transmission manual shows a graph that compares Viscosity vs. Temperature among WS and regular ATF fluids. The WS fluid has a different curve than regular ATFs. And the transmission is designed to work with the WS fluid curve, as it will have a different friction coefficient at colder temps than normal ATF.
Toyota told me that a special tool was used to replace the transmission fluid, and only Toyota was able to do it. (Sure 😏) I'm about to do mine very soon, your video is very helpful thanks for the info, mine is a 08 Tundra V6 4.0 with 70,890 miles, and she is a champion, and leaves the coma taco (eat taco), ahem I mean Tacoma behind, always starts right away, doesn't burn oil, and she's s always hungry for a trip. Bless you all
Thank you. That’s a rare Tundra, glad you’re taking care of it.
I think I'll make sure I can get my fill plug out, before removing drain plug. I also plan on measuring exactly how much I can get out, and put exactly that much back in.
Nothing wrong with that.
Thats what I did with my Titan XD. It does have a dip stick but I still measured what I removed and added the same amount of new fluid to prevent under/over filling it.
Awesome sir!! I will be servicing my 2014’s transmission soon and referencing this video. Thanks for the content!! 😎
Glad to help, happy wrenching!
Thanks for the tips! Going to Walmart and Home Depot right now!
Have fun!
Just wrapped up a transmission fluid and filter job on a 2015 Limited with 111k miles. Thanks for the vid!
I’m glad you got it done, awesome!
Im at 230,000 miles on my Tundra and never changed the trans fluid. Man I love toyota😂
If you’re doing this in cold weather, it’s going to take quite a while for the D light to come on once you’re in check mode. I did this in 46 degree F weather, with a stiff north wind. It took about 40 minutes. I actually thought I did something wrong. The transmission temp gauge was about 1/3 of the way up when the D light finally lit up. I suspected the cold weather may have been the issue, so I feathered the throttle a bit to increase heat output. It worked.
Wow, I’m shivering thinking about it.
You can also go through the inner fender on the driver side. Plus there's a 1 quart jug you can get thar allows you to pour the transmission fluid into it and then open the bottom to add to the transmission
Your video saved me 100's of $$ when my son changed the oil in my 06 Tundra 4wd. He saw the drain plug, removed it and drained the oil which turned out to be the ATF as he never saw a drain plug on a trans pan before and was rushing thru the task. When he realized what he did he quickly put the drain plug back in place. Once I couldn't find the nonexistent dipstick and filler tube, I called my friend who has been building tranny's for over 40 years and he told me Tundra's were a "cluster f$%k" and advised me to sell that POS which I did. As if planned by the Toyota stealership they advised a complete trans service for over 400.00$ and refused to add the required amount. SOLD!!! Thank you. Thank you!!
Oh wow! Glad I could help.
I have put a collective 600k miles on 3 Toyotas with sealed transmissions and never had one transmission issue. Interesting getting rid of a dependable vehicle over a $400 service you may do only once or twice during the entire time you own it. 🤷🏻♂
Toyota trucks have some of the best, if not the best transmissions. I know of two separate million mile tundras used for oilfield hot shots that were regularly overloaded and regularly towed more than the rated capacity and both transmission were trouble free to over 700k miles. One lost reverse at 770k miles and it turned out to be a solenoid. The other at over 700k miles had a flutter going to 3rd gear. The giy had it rebuilt, but the tech said it just needed a fluid and filter change as it wasn't worn that bad. All vehicles have done away with transmission dipsticks. My Titan XD with the cummins oddly still does have a dipstick.
Definitely think this method is more accurate than the pump. Just measure exactly what you take out and put the same back in.
Great point!
Quick tip: the drain plug is same as check bolt- dump the allen bolt, and get a 2nd hex head drain plug to swap in there...Easier
Thanks for great video!
Glad you liked it!
This!! Exactly what I have been looking for!!
Awesome! I’m really glad to hear that.
Great video clear & simple. I bought 19 TRD with 80k. I don't know history etc. Mechanics tell me not to mess with changing fluid. So confused. What do most owners recommend? I don't feel confident to tackle alone
Thanks for that. If you want Toyota‘s opinion, check out your manual. It has service intervals for all the fluids in your car. It doesn’t recommend transmission service under normal conditions, but what they call severe conditions you’ll find fluid changes. Severe conditions include towing, hauling heavy loads, or driving on dirt roads.
1 correction. ALWAYS undo the FILL plug FIRST... otherwise you will have to turn your truck upside down to fill it. Also. When you do this COLD COLD COLD. use a little plastic 10qt bucket that has measurements on the side. Whatever you take out, simply replace. Saves the time of doing the whole temp thing. Foolproof as long as you dont mix up qts with Liters lol
Thanks for the tips!
Thank you for this video. I just got a 2019 tundra for towing. Have up my trd pro 2019 tacoma. And I'm glad i did all required maint. The previous owner didn't really do well on maint
Right, if you keep up on maintenance it’ll last for a very long time.
A fluid extractor makes these jobs way easier. About $100. Good for adding/subtracting fluids and bleeding brakes. They're worth the expense.
GEEEZ!! Manufacturers make simple things complicated.......
Yes they do.
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
What about the dirty oil that’s in the cooler & torque converter??????
This won't touch that, but I think a lower mileage schedule will make up for it.
Good film, I like the angles, makes the job clear. Why didn''t you just measure what came out and put the same volume back in?
Because then I’m trusting the last guy who filled it. Also, I’m not real good with pouring oil without spilling. If I tried to measure it, I’d just make a mess.
Thanks for taking the time to show us how
Glad it helped.
Cool to see the scan tool and temp laser gun! Ha!
You're very good at these videos, please keep making them! I want to do all the service and repair work on our 2014 Tundra myself - I get that mechanics are professionals and their work is valued, BUT I'm sick of being taken for a ride for what often ends up being half-assed jobs.
This new video is great. But why didn't you remove the pan to drain out the liter or so of fluid from the bottom-most area where the magnets reside? To replace the strainer, too?
Thanks Benjamin. I like this way for two reasons: 1. The bolts on the trans pan are known to get rusty and they break when you attempt to remove them. 2. I think a fresh 5 quarts of trans fluid every couple oil changes is more beneficial than the occasional strainer replacement.
Because this job is so easy now, I’ll have time to do it more often.
Not worth taking off the pan. He did all that in the first video. Drain and fill is enough.
That strainer really only stops slivers and chunks. The magnets do a pretty good job reducing the number of steel particles over time. If you get"glitter" upon popping the drain plug, further investigation is warranted.
Just FYI my 2021 has a thermostat and tow package but it does not have the mechanism for the grenade pin.
Thanks
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to share the info
Glad it was helpful. Thanks.
Hmmm, now I’ve seen other videos that put the flat side of the crush washer on the transmission. Does anyone actually know the CORRECT way to place these types of gaskets/seals?
I used the Covid temp gun on “surface temp” mode. Pointed right at the atf leaving the level hole. Could see the temp of oil very easy this way and didn’t have to buy anything else. When I pointed at pan could tell runs way cooler and your 10 degree less approximation is about right.
Great idea.
Measure what you take out then refill with same amount to avoid overfilling and wasting fluid
Is it a good idea to remove the check plug before it’s reached 104°? I would think accurate level depends on waiting till you’re at the correct temperature.🤷🏻♂️
As the fluid warms up, it expands. The expansion causes more fluid to spill out. So, if you remove the plug before the fluid warms up, it will just spill out some, but not enough. Once it has warmed up, just replace the plug.
I had a complete blonde moment and drained out some of my transmission fluid instead of my engine oil🤦♂️ I’ve put about 4 quarts back in but it still hasn’t overflowed through the fluid overflow bolt. I swear I hadn’t taken out that much and thought it to be about 2 quarts. Any advice?
It’s hard to say without being there, but if you let the entire pan drain out, you’ll need to add about another quart.
Great video but I did find using a pump a lot easier. Yes, you spend a few dollars but it’s worth it. I also don’t understand the temp requirement. If you drain the oil when the engine is cool and put in the same amount drained, you don’t need to do the temp check. (The fluid temp is the same so same amount in that came out.) Just run the truck for a bit and shift gears slowly when done.
I was ready to do a complete drain (flush), filter (strainer) replacement, gasket replacement, and fill. About 12 qt of fluid replacement.
In an earlier video you did the complete flush. Did you make this video because folks broke bolts or is this a good way for the life of the vehicle? In my area snow and salt and loads of rust are not issues.
I bought used. 118k miles, 2018 Tundra Limited, 5.7 FFV. No history on prior owner but truck looked new if that is any indicator on prior care.
I like this method because it’s less complicated and as you mentioned, you’re less likely to get into trouble. I think it’s also a psychological thing because if the job is easy to do, you’re more likely to do it.
That being said it’s probably not a bad idea to clean that pan out every once in a while. As long as those bolts don’t look too rusty.
This is much easier then having to jump pins on the ODB II port. I did this on a 16 Corolla. Not eztremly tough but a pain in the neck.
Sounds like it. I’ve actually never heard of that- gotta check it out.
The tool description says the Autel scanner is no longer a reliable source. Can you tell us the scanner model number? I’m looking for the cheapest scanner that has the transmission temp PID, and it isn’t very easy to find. Thanks!
It’s the MaxiDiag Elite (no part number). The updated version is no good. Here’s a full-function scanner that’s much better, pretty inexpensive, and is Toyota/Lexus specific: amzn.to/3HfSX1r
I really like mine, made a video on it: ua-cam.com/video/lQbfb9yv5JM/v-deo.htmlsi=QpFHN1GfeJtns95L
@@ToolDemos Outstanding! Thank you for that, and for the quick reply! Merry Christmas!
@@Gary_in_NoVA thanks, Gary. Merry Christmas to you too.
But, where are the other 8-12 quarts? How do I flush it!?
Great detailed video thanks for the info
Glad it helped.
Hey there I have a question, I have 2014 Tundra and there is no thermostat to close off, I it still the same procedure?
Yes, if your Tundra doesn’t have a cooler, all the other procedures still apply.
His recommendation for the Accutel scanner is no longer recommended. Anybody have recommendations for solid scanners at reasonable price?
I have a 2021 which doesn't come with a trans cooler. So I don't have to do the "grenade pin" since there isn't a trans cooler? Thanks
That’s right. Everything else remains the same.
Good morning question I have a 2008 tundra 5.7 V8 and I happen to get codes P0761 which states shift solenoid C performance or stuck off and code P2714 Pressure solenoid D performance or stuck off. My intentions are to replace those both solenoids,transmission filter/O ring and pan gasket as well as replacing the drain/check plug crush washers and almost forgot as well replace the fill plug O Ring and put in new fresh WS transmission fluid back in. What’s ur opinion on me doing this please?
OK here’s my opinion, take it for what it’s worth. It would seem to me that your transmission is high mileage and possibly hasn’t seen many oil changes. It’s likely that your transmission fluid is going to be sludged up at this point. I say this to get to my point, which is there is a high likelihood that your valve body is getting plugged up with debris. Sometimes, when that happens, it’s possible to solve the problem by flushing the transmission with new fluid, sometimes not. Replacing all that fluid could lead to other problems like your transmission slipping. Transmission diagnostics can be a very tricky thing and I am certainly not an expert. My recommendation would be to give the fluid change a shot, assuming you are willing to take that risk. If you still have issues, then consider taking it to a very good transmission shop to get a solid diagnosis.
Appreciate the response and forgot to mention that I used to b a tech for toyota so maintenance wise my truck is tip top including the tranny 😉. Did what I wrote n the first comment today it was a bit time consuming but I made it happen. All I have left to do is fill the transmission tomorrow with the WS atf fluid and check the level of it and am hoping that should fix my issue. @ least I got the heavy work out of the way today/tonight was going to fill it up tonight but the time caught and the flies started coming out plus I didn’t want to make a mess and not see what i was doing so tomorrow morning it is. I have 10 and 1/4 of another quarts n total so am hoping I have enough tranny fluid for tomorrow 😬
Man i love this video, keep going steve!!
Appreciate it! Look out, the 100k mile spectacular is coming soon.
If Toyota wanted to have these transmissions serviced, they would have put it on their scheduled maintenance charts but they're not. Over 200k on mine and never been serviced, no slipping or hesitation, runs like a Tundra should.
It’s in the chart under ‘severe duty’ which includes heavy loads, towing, and dirt roads.
Now why wouldn’t Toyota want me to see this video, had to watch it for that reason lol
Lol
They don't want anybody working on their product it won't be long and there won't be a drain plug or a fill plug.. totally sealed..
Guys. Where do I get one of those grenande pin things for the thermostat
The pin was from a timing chain tensioner. You can use a paper clip or a drill bit. Whatever ya have.
Is there a way to remove all the old fluid from the bell housing with the draining, and does this even need to be done?
There's no drain plug for that, you'd have to flush the system to get it out. Some shops will do that for you, but I don't recommend it.
@@Crickeybeoch first, a warning: It would be better for your transmission if you never changed the fluid than to run it dry. The fastest way to destroy a transmission is to run it without fluid in it.
That being said, the answer to your question is yes. In the front of the transmission and connected to the input shaft is the hydraulic pump. When the engine turns, that pump circulates fluid throughout the entire system, then back into the sump.
I don’t understand the temp range given to check the fluid. Trans fluid expands. Trans temps can reach 185°. Does the fluid stop expanding at 113°? If not … why not let it get to maximum temperature and then check it? Is this the same for other manufacturers?
Toyota decided to give us a break, and let us check the fluid without burning our arms on hot exhaust. Different car makes and models have different temperature ranges, I’m glad this one is on the cooler side.
@@ToolDemos Okay. What about the continued expansion? Toyota must have compensated somehow with the overflow tube. Thanks for responding. I really appreciate it.
@@seanmclaughlin7415 yes, it will continue to expand, but the overflow tube’s length is designed for the temperature spec given. If you let it warm up to full temp, too much fluid will pour out.
@@ToolDemos I figured. Just wanted to confirm. Thank you 🙏
Do you happen to know the temp to check a 2017 Ford F-150 with the 6 speed tranny?
have you removed pan to replace fluid? I believe there are some magnets on the pan and some fluid stays in there even with a drain and fill
Yup: ua-cam.com/video/cNu3feOLXxI/v-deo.htmlsi=l5v1OwkVrog-xZp_
If you're measuring the temp with a temp gun at the pan, does it really matter if you do the grenade pin or not?
I try to do what I can.
in our other video you change out the filter and gasket is it that important every time you change the oil?
No, Toyota doesn’t consider them maintenance items either. They can go a long time.
I just boight a 2018 with 139k miles. Should i do a drain and fill, drain and replace the filter, or not touch it? Some people say if its been to long you shouldnt touch because it'll knock too much dirt loose
@@Bradw354 my threshold is at 100,000 miles. It’s not science just a rule I made up based on experience.
@@ToolDemosWould you recommend using additives like stop slip if I'm beyond the threshold for a drain and fill?
Great video, thank you. How often should I drop the pan and replace the filter / strainer and clean the magnets?
Thanks. First Toyotas answer, according to them dropping the pan is not a necessary part of maintenance. In my opinion, maybe every hundred thousand miles or so, with a warning. The bolts holding the pan on, are known to get pretty rusty if you live in an area where rust is a problem. If you see that, I would stay away from it unless you were ready to deal with a lot of broken bolts.
@@ToolDemos ok, thanks
I’ve heard there is no cooler on the 2020 Tundra, as people have had issues with towing so some have actually added a cooler. So if that’s the case I shouldn’t need the pin. Can anyone confirm this?
That is correct. The last year with it is 2018.
@@ToolDemos thank you for letting me know!
I did my fluid drain and fill today. I'm not sure I got a faulty transmission filler from Walmart, but the black connector only securely screwed on the ATF WS quarts for two of them. I ended up pouring the next quart into one of the containers that it fit - if that makes sense. I think next time I'll use the hand pump.
Question though on drain amount, fill amount and Overflow check to trickle. I drained 4 quarts (just a tad below the mark). I filled with 5 quarts. However, what drained out during the Overflow to a trickle was 2 quarts?! The math doesn't make sense to me. Tests drive is fine. The transmission temp guage was at normal and no slipping. Thoughts?
Questions:
Was the engine running during the overflow drain?
Was the transmission temperature within the check window?
@ToolDemos yes the engine was running at the checked temperature. I did both the wire in the obd2 and confirmed with a laser temp (this was about 5 to 7 degrees different, my guess). The "D" was solid as I did my overflow drain. The trickle came then the "D" started flashing.
So there is no pin on 2019-21 as they don't have trans cooler?
Right
@@ToolDemos Thank you
Do you have a part number on the Transmission pan gasket and strainer from Toyota also which scanner do you recommend for us diy"ers
Yup: strainer part number: 35330-0C020
Strainer o-ring: 90301-31014
Pan gasket: 35168-34020
And for DIY scanner on Toyota (only), I really like this one from Launch: amzn.to/3wB6KND
Here’s my review of it: ua-cam.com/video/lQbfb9yv5JM/v-deo.htmlsi=KhnXPwTZVuY5rA9Y
Thanks so much for the info. When first watching the trans fluid change was it the launch tool you used for trans temperature ?@@ToolDemos
@@garykirsch875 no, that was an Autel tool. They don’t make that model anymore.
I know this is deal procedure but wouldn't it be way easier to measure what you drained and just replace it with exact amount?
Honestly, if you have a scanner or thermometer doing this is really easy.
@tooldemos I was reading online that to change the transmission fluid on the Tundra. I noticed you only used 6 qts, yet it calls for 11-12 qts. Am I missing something here?
If you just spill the pan, all you get out is 5 or 6 quarts. The whole system takes twice that.
Ok gotcha. Thanks for the information
That’s exactly the way you should do it. Why buy that drill pump? I bought a new fill nut from Toyota and drilled it out to accept the tubing like you have. Totally gravity fed, simple and cheap. Use a funnel attached to tubing and hung from hood
I like simple solutions.
I have a 2020 tundra. I don’t think I need a pin since mine doesn’t have a transmission cooler.
Exactly right
I have a 6” left, how do I make sure it is leveled?
Would this same procedure for 2015 Tundra Platinum 4X4?
Yes, same transmission.
Do you have the rubber gasket part number for the fill plug?
will your scanner work on a 2020 sequoia? i want to know if it can read the sequoia transmission temps….
The best way I can answer your question is by giving you a link to Autel vehicle coverage page. If the tool you are looking for covers your vehicle, it will show you here: autel.com/us/vehicle-coverage/
I bought the exact Autel recommended in the description link, but I can't get it to display AT TEMP. What the heck?
They must’ve removed that function in the latest update. I’m removing the link so nobody else buys it. Your best option is return it to Amazon and check Autel’s website (or another brand) to find a tool that has the coverage you need.
i have one and i had to call autel to get them to explain where it is for my rav4 and they found it for me and it works so maybe just can’t find it?
could you drain and then measure how much came out and add that amount back in the pan?
Sure, but you’d have to assume it was correct to begin with.
Would it have been better to just measure how much you drained, and then put that much back in?
Nothing wrong with doing it that way, if you prefer it.
I wonder why before the video starts it says the Toyota and Toyota affiliates don’t want you to see this video
Why does no one ever get ALL the fluid out. Torque converter must have at least 2 or 3 quarts of dirty fluid..........
For me, it’s more work than I want. I figure I’ll get it in the next service.
When should you do your first transmission fluid change ? I’m at 60,000 now
I say every 30k or so. People who sell new cars will tell you different.
So what do you do if you don't have the the plug on the trans cooler. I have a 2020. Old school drain and fill?
Yup, just move on without pressing it in.
Do you have to remove the check plug and mess with temp? Is that necessary?
To know where your fluid level is, yes.
My truck just turned 73,000 miles and it’s a 2018. Should I just do a drain and fill or should I also change the filter?
Changing the filter wouldn’t hurt, I still do it about every 4th service. Just make sure the bolts holding up your pan aren’t rusty. They tend to break.
Wow, so many questions… Not to sharpshoot you at all. Can we remove pan to change filter and clean magnets? Can we just measure what we removed and replace the same amount? There will be an over spill either way. Doesn’t the amount we add get contaminated as soon as the new oil mixes? I’ve had it flushed by the dealership once in my 2010 Tundras 180k lifetime. I was thinking of having it flushed again by the dealership, then I come behind them and remove pan, replace filter and clean magnets. I see less contamination that way. I don’t see why the oil needs to be at a certain degree, maybe for expansion, but does older oil expand less or more than newer oil? I love this 2010 Tundra, and I’m going to drive it until the wheels fall off, then replace them.
You can remove the pan if you choose, two things to keep in mind.
1: adding more steps to the job means you do it less often.
2: The pan bolts can get rusty and might break when you try to loosen them.
As far as measuring the new fluid:
1: fluid expands with heat, so they have an established range to check the level.
2: relying on measuring the old fluid means you have to trust the level was correct from the last job and that you capture all of the spilled fluid.
Hope this helps.
Would it be wise to open the thermostat when draining the fluid so that it drains whats in the lines? Just a thought
Yeah, can’t hurt.
Do you have a part number for the new washer on the 5mm check plug? Thanks for all your time and help.
It’s the same as the drain plug gasket: 35178-30010
Would you recommend doing the drain and fill if 110k miles have lapsed between servicing?
That could be risky. As you know, changing the fluid won’t harm your transmission, but it could reveal some wear that already exists. Sometimes higher mileage transmissions will slip after you’ve done the service.
I just bought 2010 sequoia. 150k ODO. Came with no service records. Should I attempt to change tranny fluid or leave it alone? Thanks!
You’re kinda border-line on that one, I think. I’d recommend having funds available for a transmission before you open it up.
@@ToolDemos otherworldly you’d leave it alone?
@@parzydlakgajusia1605 yeah, I think I would.
I have a 2011 5.7 that I’m sure has never had the fluid changed (I got it at 120k it’s at 170k now). If it were your truck would you recommend changing the fluid or just leave it how it is?
If it were my truck, I would just try to get as many miles out of that transmission as is. If you change the fluid now, you’d run the risk of developing problems like slipping.
I just did a drain and fill on my 2011 at 125,000, truck runs great. I removed 4 qts and added 4 qts, no issues.
Do you put 100% fresh fluid ? Or do you use some of the old fluid and and just add some fresh fluid ? Just trying to learn what to do. I heard 100% fresh fluid can cause the transmission to slip
Fresh fluid cannot harm your transmission. Although if you do a first fluid change on a high mileage transmission it could begin slipping. That transmission was already on its way out, the new fluid just revealed it.
@@ToolDemos I bought a 2010 tundra recently and idk if it has been done before. Maintenance history said nothing about it. So should I not change it at all?
@@cmora1992 It’s really a mileage question. Personally, I wouldn’t change the fluid on a transmission over 100,000 miles, if it were the first time.
Why not change the filter ?
I’ve done that too, just don’t want to do it every time.