Kent, I love your videos. You are a natural teacher. I make my own shellac but find that even with care the alcohol evaporates fairly quickly. A solution that has worked well is to put the jar in a gallon freezer bag which slows the evaporation a great deal. It's nearly impossible to seal a small fruit jar back after the first use. Keep up the good work for those us who are hobby turners in about the lower half of intermediate turners. Have a blessed Christmas!
Been making and using shellac for decades. Moved to using grain alcohol instead of denatured many years ago. It starts non toxic, produces a more stable shellac, and smells better. No copper sulphate , methanol pyridine, or other fun stuff.
@@kimgraham152 yes, Everclear is a clear alcohol that is 180 proof (90% pure ethanol) drinking alcohol. It's about the most available. Denatured alcohol is the same thing with some additives that make it smell worse and unhealthy to drink - it's an industrial product. The drinkable, unflavored alcohol is often call "grain" alcohol because it is often made from some cheap grain like corn.
@@boooshes since they added thing to make it unhealthy to drink, it no longer qualifies as an alcoholic drink product, which evades the drinking alcohol based taxes. It's honestly crazy adding more "work" into it makes it so much cheaper. I too prefer to use grain alcohols though
This is a very interesting (and useful) video. I'm studying to be a painter (non artist kind that handles many different surfaces) and shellac is one of the finishes we were told about and got to test out on little pieces of wood. It was pre-mixed though and the making/mixing process has been a bit of a mustery to me, so thanks!
Glad it was helpful, Merri! Oh yes, using this pure form will be far better than store-bought, especially while painting. You can also use various tints of shellac if that is desired. Enjoy!
After finding out about shellac from Paul Sellers, I began doing what you do. he commercially prepared shellac at the box stores stopped stamping production dates, and shellac has a shelf life. I have had some finishes fail to cure because they were old. I like a 1# cut better than the more viscous 2# cut. Although it takes more coats, it seems to be more forgiving. TYou probably mentioned this while I was typing this comment, but shellac can be used as a base coat over knots to prevent resin from seeping through paint, just as long as the shellac flakes you buy are "dewaxed". I have found shellac to be nice and tough on furniture--I even refinished some wooden stair treads with just shellac three years ago and it's still going strong. No need for respirators or risk of lacquered nose hairs, shellac is my go to for nearly everything. It shows the wood surface without looking like a plastic finish. If you want a high shine finish with shellac, French polishing is always an option. Thanks for the video extolling the virtues shellac!
Ed, Thank you for writing and sharing! Great to know all your uses for shellac. Yes, it is a very versatile product and indispensable for many applications. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
I've never made it like yours. I usually use the liquid shellac with denatured alcohol and either mineral oil for more of a clear finish or boiled linseed oil for a little darker finish. Apply it as a friction polish with the lathe on. Apply it until the paper towel heats up and it's dry and your done. I like your way for hardening the fibers. Thanks for sharing.
Glad i found this video, i bought some shellac and denatured alcohol from amazon pretty much immediatly. So much cheaper, and it bonds with spar and poly, so it's uses are really limitless. I like using it as a pre-base for poly or spar, because it prevents the wood yellowing. I also like using linseed oil treatment + poly trick to make it waterproofish. Oddly enough, with the correct procedure, it works really well. Also, the finish ends up looking completely different when finished
I just watched your video on Shellac. Glad I watched it, plan on making some soon. I actually have been watching a lot of you videos and find them extremally helpful.
Thank u kent....I appreciate all your experience. Your videos are awesome. Im a wood turrner as well. Lots of madrone here. And I have 30 waulnut burls that I have slabed for turning urns. Im gonna make some shellac. Apreaciate you kent.....my turning abilities will now reach the outer limits because I got a great instructor like yourself. Thanks its chad. At century bowls.
I have never used shellac but now that you educated me I will. So far I have been using the beeswax mineral oil based butcher block conditioner or spray lacquer for the couple dozed bowls I have made. It is SO much fun.
I have been using this method for a couple of years, It's my base coat for my favorite finish. I always store my unused flakes in the refrigerator to keep them as fresh as possible as a 1lb bag lasts a long time.
Best woodturner video channel to learn on on all of UA-cam on my opinion! Not only is he amazing, he actually cares about those that purchase his products. I've had a couple of email chains with him now! Thank you for what you do! Finishing is the absolute worst part of the process for me. I absolutely stink at not having chipping while hollowing and then getting impatient during the finishing process. I'm going to try this shellac to help give some boxelder a bit more rigidity for a scrape finish. I would give a lot to go to a class by you in person. Know you are appreciated!
G’day Kent, Yes I make and use my own shellac. I use bio ethanol as it doesn’t have the meths in it. It’s a safer product and while not food safe won’t kill you either, not that I drink it anyway. Great product,so easy to make and use, and does provide a great base. For wax finishes.
Thanks Kent! I've been making my own shellac for a long time. The only difference is I use Everclear instead of DNA. I make a 1lb cut with blonde flakes. I grind the flakes with an old coffee bean grinder and I usually have a finished product in 3 to 4 hrs. Take care, Dave
I agree with david, DNA is not exactly food grade. On the other hand everclear is, to be 100% sure, I am also using everclear. Plus I can mix everclear with my drinks 😁 wink wink..
Shellac makes a great sealer on wood and sheet rock to prevent stains from bleeding through paint. I used it when painting in kitchens and there is food oil on the wall or trim work. It keeps that oil from bleeding through latex paint and creating unsightly stains. It’s a heck of a lot cheaper using this and make what you need versus going to the pain store and shelling out $20-$30 or more for sealer primer to do the same thing.
Hi Kent,I use shellac in my pen turning and occasionally on other turnings. Where shellac really works for is when repairing furniture. You can add dyes to shellac to make practically any color. Great when making a repair and needing to match an existing color.
Thank you for this. Great video. I just completed a bookcase using shellac finish for the first time. I bought Bullseye amber shellac and immediately found it too thick. I live in California where denatured alcohol has been banned. BUMMER!! But Woodcraft sells a product called shellac reducer that is denatured alcohol with some kind of additive that gets past the California ban. Anyway, I bought some and thinned the Bullseye to a one pound cut, and it was SO EASY to apply. I just used a clean t-shirt rag folded into a pad and applied it like wipe-on poly. Worked great! One hour between coats. I used 0000 steel wool after the first coat to knock down the raised grain. After that I didn’t need to use steel wool again because it remained smooth, and shellac dissolves into itself, unlike polyurethane. I’m extremely happy with the results. One reason I used a rag instead of a brush is because of the easy cleanup. THANK YOU for your tip about reusing the brush! I will use that in the future. I will also buy some flakes and make my own.
Thank you my friend I have just been watching your video on making your own schellac but struggled with the weights when I mixed mine I didn’t think of the scales that you used such a simple thing and it will make it so much easier and better thanks very much
Been making and using shellac for years, all colors and cuts. You’re right about the clarity and convenience. Years ago I did quite a lot of antique restoration. French polish technique lends itself to turning beautifully. Loving your videos.
I have been making OB shine juice with shellac, and occasionally using spray shellac, but I haven’t yet made my own shellac. But you’ve sold me on making my own. Thanks Kent. Stay well!
Kent, I enjoy your vids. Yes, I make and use shellac, typically mix an 8lb cut and thin as necessary at time of use. I buy blonde In flake form and keep some soluble powdered pigment on hand. This way I have total control over both viscosity and hue. I really appreciate making it as I need it as apposed to buying a big can at the home center and then watching it age out.
I have used shellac in a mix for friction polish. With the said I moved back to Mylars because all those additives that keep the product good on the shelves works great on my shelves as well. And I did have an issue with my friction polish over time turning sticky. Something to do with the BLO I presume but may also be with the Zinzer shellac mixed with the BLO and Denatured Alcohol as opposed to pure Shellac and BLO and Alcohol. Would love to see a video of making rub on polish.
Thanks for sharing Kent! I presently use store bought shellac and denatured alcohol as sanding sealer. Will consider buying the shellac flakes and making my own! And I will definitely try using this on tear out. Thanks! Gary
Hi Kent, I too make my own shellac. I crush the flakes a bit, prior to adding the alcohol. The "pre crush" step allows the shellac to dissolve much faster. I do [usually] filter the final product. I'll also agitate [shake] the stuff once in a while as it is going into solution. You have great videos and I thank you!
Hi, just fell across your channel and I’m here to stay. I’ve always used store bought, because it is so much easier, but you’ve converted me. Thanks for advice and guidance, it was very clear and concise. Great job! Cheers, Sean
Kent, we bought the shellac and made the finish solution, We started with a small bowl we did in White Birch ... So first coat this even ... More to come
I use shellac all the time. for the most non toxic finish Everclear 195 proof grain alcohol works well , there is also Klean Strip GREEN denatured alcohol which is about 95% ethanol. The red can is only about 50% ethanol ( more yucky stuff) . I use blonde, amber ruby and garnet flakes (mostly dewaxed) so any finish can go on as a top coat, the color of the shellac I match to the wood , light woods I use blond the darker woods the darker color, ruby and garnet bring out the rich color in walnut and cherry.
I am looking for a new finish for my Black Walnut bowls so i ordered the blond flakes a couple of days ago and plan on making both a one pound and a 2 pound cut. What i really like about it is the very quick dry time. I turn a lot of live edge Black Walnut bowls and the store bought in the can stuff will darken the sap wood part just a little. I used another product-Tru Oil- that gave a great finish but the cure time was too long for me. I have high hopes for the blond flakes. Thanks for the vid and I booked marked your sight
Always great useful information and experts tips in your amazing channel, I used shellac mainly for the yellowing effect they leave behind but; never came to my mind the way you mix it and the true useful things behind using it. Thanks for shearing this video with us 🙏🏼
I always use shellac on all my projects... whether they be turning or flat. It fills in like you said, and seals the wood very nicely. And unlike most other finishes. It will work with oil or water base finishes if you choose to do something over it. I recently used Heartwood... I didn't realize it would brown over time... especially in the sun. So, I put on one coat of shellac and then put on a Marine Spar Varnish with UVA inhibitors. Worked great with the shellac.
Thanks for your info. As a part time hobby turner living in Korea, your video is a textbook for me. It shall be highly appreciated if you explain all the measurement in metric also. Inch, once, pound etc are common in only US but not in other countries. Your video is not only for American.
Thanks for the reminder. I will see what I can do for you. I will updated the article associated with this video, here turnawoodbowl.com/shellac All the best to you (in Korea) and Happy Turning!
Thank you for this valuable information. Phil Anderson uses shellac in almost every video but didn't explain, where he's got it or if he made it himself. I'll try this recipe out. You have the gift to explain in a calm and understandable way, its always a pleasure to watch your videos. They are very helpful for beginners (at the age of 62) like me . Greetings from northern germany . Stefan
Yes great video. I make Native American flutes out of cedar and the wood is so soft . I don’t what to use Verathane or anything like that. So I might try this ,thank you.
After many years of using shellac, I would highly recommend using grain alcohol rather than denatured alcohol to make shellac. It is food safe before it dries, it smells much better and is shelf stable longer. 190 proof is plenty pure, available at most liquor stores, a little more expensive than denatured, but a gallon will last a very long time.
Hey Kent... Just stumbled upon this. I was looking for a way to make my own shellac for the electric guitars I've started building (as a retirement hobby - hehehe). Did not realize it was soooo easy to make. Thanks
If you need it quicker than 24 hours -- we would sometimes sit the jar of shellac in a basin of hot water to speed up the process. It dissolved much faster when warmed up.
Thanks, Kent! This is definitely going to help me with tearout. Sounds like this may replace sanding sealer, just without the naughty chemicals. Thanks!!
Hi Kent, I just watched your video about making shellac for the third time. I have a couple of thoughts I hope you will find helpful. I decided to make shellac after watching your video the first time. I bought the flakes from the vendor you mentioned and made a 1 pound cut following your instructions. The shellac turned out just as you described and the bowl looks great. However... there is always a "however". After the shellac dried I noticed the grain raised. Now I am not a LAZY person but if I can avoid sanding I will. So I started researching the denatured alcohol you used in the video. Before I did this research all I knew about denatured alcohol was how to spell it. I looked at the ingredients to determine if any of them would raise the wood grain. As you probably know, a manufacturer can use just about anything to denature the alcohol so we don’t drink it. Well the manufacturer of the denatured alcohol we used put at least two chemicals in it that raises the grain. After a bit more research I learned that manufacturers routinely use just about any additive they choose and change their recipe as needed. Now, I was on a mission to find something that would make a great shellac and leave the finished product food safe (which is not the case with denatured alcohol). The product I found is made by “The Northern Maine Distilling Company”. Yup, I said “distilling”. This company makes a 200 proof food grade ethyl alcohol. It is named “Culinary Solvent 200 Proof”. I bought it, made shellac with it and used the shellac on a few bowls. You would not know the difference from it and shellac made with denatured alcohol, EXCEPT the shellac is food safe, doesn’t stink, the grain is not raised and it dries in a few minutes. You can almost see the alcohol evaporating from the bowl. Those are the good points. The only down side, that I found, is that it is a bit more expensive than denatured alcohol. If this information is new to you, check out the company products at www.culinarysolvent.com.
I never made shellac. I use Zinsser Shellac as a sanding sealer and it works great. I have not tried it as a final finish. I may buy some flakes and give it a try. Haven't decided yet. I put the flakes on my wish list at Amazon. I read the comment below about controversies surrounding whether shellac is food safe. I researched this. The Food and Drug Administration in 21 CFR §175.300 says it is generally recognized as safe. Just thought you would like to know.
I used shellac about 10 years ago. I mixed a small amount to a thinish dilution to seal a carving. It worked well and looked good. I still have the leftover flakes. I will mix some more up and use it on some the work I'm doing now and see how it comes out.
Happy turning to you too :-) Thank you for sharing.... Im from Holland and as far as i know the shellac is not used so much as in the USA. Thanks to this video im going to give it a go. Greetings from Holland.
I make cutting boards and use a beeswax oil mix to seal the boards. A very interestng point you mentioned is that it acts as a glue to hold wood fibres together. Would also work on cutting boards
Thank you for the great info! I made a small bottle of 2 lb cut and used it on several bowls. I was running low so I diluted it down to about a 1 lb cut and I really like it! Thanks again!
I make classical guitars and have made shellac from flakes to French Polish them. Shellac is a great sealer (cheap) and goes on fast and doesn't gather dust .. at least when dong French Polish. I alternate shellac with an oil when I do my guitars and my turnings. The stuff in cans at the store give shellac a bad name. I like your video as it show just how easy the process is.
Fantastic. Thanks for sharing. When you say you alternate, do you apply an oil, like linseed over the shellac, let it dry and then apply another coat of shellac?
@@TurnAWoodBowl I use a french polish on my guitars. I try to use a method close to this on my wood turnings. Carnauba wax is applied after the shellac has hardened. I first seal the wood with a good coat of shellac. After the shellac is dry I sand the wood smooth. Reverse sanding if possible then the french polish. Method for french polish (on guitars): Using a pad with a wod of wood in side, a few drops of oil olive, grape seed or walnut then a few drops of shellac. Using a figure 8 pattern with light pressure this is applied so a 'comet trail' can be seen. (takes some practise to master this) This process is repeated many times to build a layer of finish. After the the shellac has dried and hardened this gets buffed. On a guitar this can takes weeks. Then a carnauba wax like Mothers is applied to really make it shine. On turnings I use a paper towel (pad if it's safe to do so) and more oil and shellac each cycle at 324 speed. After this dries I speed it up and buff with an old sock... still working on this.
Kent - I definitely plan on making some of my own. It was a great tip about using it for punky wood. I have used it as a sort of sanding sealer, but didn't know about its use for punky wood. I will definitely put it to the test soon!
Garry not Linda. Denatured alcohol does not spontaneously combust like oil based products can. I just hang the paper towel or rag over the edge of my garbage can and in minutes it will dry out, no problem. All shellacs and lacquers are food safe after they're dried and cured but making your own like this pretty much guarantees there will be no issues. One point that I'm not sure was mentioned, lacquer or shellac are not moisture resistant. If the item is going to possibly become wet it's best to find a water resistant finish such as epoxy or a marine spar varnish or a clean oil such as walnut oil on a cutting board. Shellac is also not a good finish for outdoor use. Great job on the tutorial Kent. I was a third generation painter and wood finisher that is now a newbie woodturner and new subscriber to your channel. I did some turning many years ago but finally have the time to buckle down and do it. I haven't gone through all of the information on your channel and website yet. I'm working on it. Oh and the soak the shellac brush trick is one that I've done for years. I do the same with lacquer brushes. They do take a little longer to soften up. I've got a whole selection of one and two inch brushes hanging on a rack for clear and amber shellac and clear lacquer. I write what they are for on the handles. Keep up the good work.
Hi Garry. I'm curious about what you use for DA after reading what Steve Blight wrote about it. So far, I have just bought DA at Lowes without any thought about it. Thanks
@@josephwise485 I'm going to have to do a little digging but I've never heard of anyone having an issue with standard denatured alcohol. If you follow any of the turners like Mike Peace, Mike Waldt, Martin Saban-Smith, or Eddie Castelin, they've been using off the shelf DA for many more years than I have in their turned pieces and had no problem. The food safe thing gets blown out of proportion at times. Once the solvents have dried and allowed to cure lacquer and shellac are considered completely food safe but as I mentioned in my other comment neither are good finishes for a moist environment they will fail quickly. I believe Mike Peace did a video on food safe finishes and maybe Alan Stratton at As Wood Turns. I know that if there is any question both of them use walnut oil on their pieces and re-oil them as needed. Sorry to go on so long in such a small space.
Kent, I love your videos. You are a natural teacher. I make my own shellac but find that even with care the alcohol evaporates fairly quickly. A solution that has worked well is to put the jar in a gallon freezer bag which slows the evaporation a great deal. It's nearly impossible to seal a small fruit jar back after the first use. Keep up the good work for those us who are hobby turners in about the lower half of intermediate turners. Have a blessed Christmas!
Been making and using shellac for decades. Moved to using grain alcohol instead of denatured many years ago. It starts non toxic, produces a more stable shellac, and smells better. No copper sulphate , methanol pyridine, or other fun stuff.
Thanks for sharing. This is good to know. Happy Turning!
please explain more what grain alcohol is? When I google it I get Everclear? Is that what you use?
@@kimgraham152 yes, Everclear is a clear alcohol that is 180 proof (90% pure ethanol) drinking alcohol. It's about the most available. Denatured alcohol is the same thing with some additives that make it smell worse and unhealthy to drink - it's an industrial product. The drinkable, unflavored alcohol is often call "grain" alcohol because it is often made from some cheap grain like corn.
Thank you for that clarification I appreciate that!
@@boooshes since they added thing to make it unhealthy to drink, it no longer qualifies as an alcoholic drink product, which evades the drinking alcohol based taxes. It's honestly crazy adding more "work" into it makes it so much cheaper. I too prefer to use grain alcohols though
Thanks for the shellac mix chart. It's just what I needed.
Thanks for this. I've ordered the flakes and will be making it shortly
This is a very interesting (and useful) video. I'm studying to be a painter (non artist kind that handles many different surfaces) and shellac is one of the finishes we were told about and got to test out on little pieces of wood. It was pre-mixed though and the making/mixing process has been a bit of a mustery to me, so thanks!
Glad it was helpful, Merri! Oh yes, using this pure form will be far better than store-bought, especially while painting. You can also use various tints of shellac if that is desired. Enjoy!
Didn't realize that making one's own shellac was so simple and versatile. Thank you!
Yup. That's why I shared it. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Been making and using a 3lb cut for years applying in a French polish approach technique. Thanks for sharing 👍
Good stuff, Jude! Happy Turning!
I make my shellac like you showed. I even buy my flakes from the Shellac Shack.I mix up a 1lb cut and a 2lb cut for my sanding sealer.
After finding out about shellac from Paul Sellers, I began doing what you do. he commercially prepared shellac at the box stores stopped stamping production dates, and shellac has a shelf life. I have had some finishes fail to cure because they were old. I like a 1# cut better than the more viscous 2# cut. Although it takes more coats, it seems to be more forgiving. TYou probably mentioned this while I was typing this comment, but shellac can be used as a base coat over knots to prevent resin from seeping through paint, just as long as the shellac flakes you buy are "dewaxed". I have found shellac to be nice and tough on furniture--I even refinished some wooden stair treads with just shellac three years ago and it's still going strong. No need for respirators or risk of lacquered nose hairs, shellac is my go to for nearly everything. It shows the wood surface without looking like a plastic finish. If you want a high shine finish with shellac, French polishing is always an option.
Thanks for the video extolling the virtues shellac!
Ed,
Thank you for writing and sharing! Great to know all your uses for shellac. Yes, it is a very versatile product and indispensable for many applications. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
I have learned that my first half assed attempt to make something is always superior quality than the purchasable products on the shelf.
LOL, that's about right. Imagine what your 100th bowl is going to look like. Forget the stores, start looking at museums! ;) Happy Turning!
Thanks for your videos. I’m learning a lot. I’m on my second jar of homemade shellac. Thanks again for your instructions.
I've never made it like yours. I usually use the liquid shellac with denatured alcohol and either mineral oil for more of a clear finish or boiled linseed oil for a little darker finish. Apply it as a friction polish with the lathe on. Apply it until the paper towel heats up and it's dry and your done. I like your way for hardening the fibers. Thanks for sharing.
M
Very informative lesson on shellac. I will be making some and giving it a try now. Thanks very much!
Have fun! Happy Turning!
Glad i found this video, i bought some shellac and denatured alcohol from amazon pretty much immediatly. So much cheaper, and it bonds with spar and poly, so it's uses are really limitless. I like using it as a pre-base for poly or spar, because it prevents the wood yellowing. I also like using linseed oil treatment + poly trick to make it waterproofish. Oddly enough, with the correct procedure, it works really well. Also, the finish ends up looking completely different when finished
Glad you enjoy the shellac too. Happy Turning!
I just watched your video on Shellac. Glad I watched it, plan on making some soon. I actually have been watching a lot of you videos and find them extremally helpful.
Awesome! Thank you! Happy Turning!
Thank u kent....I appreciate all your experience. Your videos are awesome. Im a wood turrner as well. Lots of madrone here. And I have 30 waulnut burls that I have slabed for turning urns. Im gonna make some shellac. Apreaciate you kent.....my turning abilities will now reach the outer limits because I got a great instructor like yourself. Thanks its chad.
At century bowls.
Thanks for watching Chad. Glad to help. Happy Turning!
Well presented, concise and clear I also make my own but this video is great for first timers well done
JC
Many thanks for the info. I already make my own wax finishing paste and now I will make my own shellac. Shellac flakes already on order.
Fantastic! Enjoy and Happy Turning!
I have never used shellac but now that you educated me I will. So far I have been using the beeswax mineral oil based butcher block conditioner or spray lacquer for the couple dozed bowls I have made. It is SO much fun.
I use Howard's BBC as well on all my bowls. Can you use the spray lacquer over it to get just a bit more of a more permanent shine?
Thank you. I would like to try this. Tired of fumes from the Lacquer finish I usually use. I really like your videos
I have been using this method for a couple of years, It's my base coat for my favorite finish. I always store my unused flakes in the refrigerator to keep them as fresh as possible as a 1lb bag lasts a long time.
Ah, excellent point. Yes, store the flakes in the frig! Thank you for pointing this out.
What's your favorite finish?
@@mitchellboggeman5336 Minwax Antique Oil Finish left to dry without buffing gives a deep gloss and if you buff after applying you get a satin look
Best woodturner video channel to learn on on all of UA-cam on my opinion! Not only is he amazing, he actually cares about those that purchase his products. I've had a couple of email chains with him now!
Thank you for what you do!
Finishing is the absolute worst part of the process for me. I absolutely stink at not having chipping while hollowing and then getting impatient during the finishing process.
I'm going to try this shellac to help give some boxelder a bit more rigidity for a scrape finish. I would give a lot to go to a class by you in person.
Know you are appreciated!
G’day Kent,
Yes I make and use my own shellac. I use bio ethanol as it doesn’t have the meths in it. It’s a safer product and while not food safe won’t kill you either, not that I drink it anyway.
Great product,so easy to make and use, and does provide a great base. For wax finishes.
I want to try this thank you so much until now never knew you could make your own
Hope you enjoy. Happy Turning!
never made my own but just ordered the flakes to make my own. so glad I found your channel last week
Steven, welcome aboard! Enjoy!
Excellent advice. Also a great product for turners like myself who have a severe respiratory reaction to CA glue.
Only used Zinsler in the past on non lathe projects....may consider this for bowls. Great info!
I think you'll like it!
Well this is a game changer! I’ll be doing this for sure.
Kurt, I’ve watched many of your videos, you do a great job explaining a lot of these situations about turning. I’ve learned a lot. Thanks. Roger D.
Thank you. Glad to help. Happy Turning!
Thanks Kent! I've been making my own shellac for a long time. The only difference is I use Everclear instead of DNA. I make a 1lb cut with blonde flakes. I grind the flakes with an old coffee bean grinder and I usually have a finished product in 3 to 4 hrs.
Take care, Dave
Great idea! Thanks for sharing!
I agree with david, DNA is not exactly food grade. On the other hand everclear is, to be 100% sure, I am also using everclear. Plus I can mix everclear with my drinks 😁 wink wink..
that's exactly how i make it.
Is that moonshine? I know someone who makes that. So I could just use that instead???
@@kimlawson8607 Don't see any reason not to. It's at least 100% alcohol with an apple or peach passed over it for effect.
I learned something new AGAIN! Thank you for all your great lessons! I am seriously considering this now!
Glad to hear it! All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Shellac makes a great sealer on wood and sheet rock to prevent stains from bleeding through paint. I used it when painting in kitchens and there is food oil on the wall or trim work. It keeps that oil from bleeding through latex paint and creating unsightly stains. It’s a heck of a lot cheaper using this and make what you need versus going to the pain store and shelling out $20-$30 or more for sealer primer to do the same thing.
Oh wow, that's good to know! Thanks Happy Turning!
Hi Kent,I use shellac in my pen turning and occasionally on other turnings. Where shellac really works for is when repairing furniture. You can add dyes to shellac to make practically any color. Great when making a repair and needing to match an existing color.
Ah, that makes sense. Thanks for sharing!
Great video! I think my favorite thing I learned from this one is how shellac can be used to tighten up punky or endgrain wood. Thanks so much.
Hi Kent, I have not made my own Shellac finish but have some of the blonde flakes on order and I am going to try this. Thanks for the information.
You're welcome Delmer. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
good job teacher ! easy to follow for a new turner, will try to make finish,a fan of shellac & food safe too.
Thanks, Dale!
Thanks. As always it si a great teaching video. Looking forward to make my own shellac.
Thank you for this. Great video. I just completed a bookcase using shellac finish for the first time. I bought Bullseye amber shellac and immediately found it too thick. I live in California where denatured alcohol has been banned. BUMMER!! But Woodcraft sells a product called shellac reducer that is denatured alcohol with some kind of additive that gets past the California ban. Anyway, I bought some and thinned the Bullseye to a one pound cut, and it was SO EASY to apply. I just used a clean t-shirt rag folded into a pad and applied it like wipe-on poly. Worked great! One hour between coats. I used 0000 steel wool after the first coat to knock down the raised grain. After that I didn’t need to use steel wool again because it remained smooth, and shellac dissolves into itself, unlike polyurethane. I’m extremely happy with the results. One reason I used a rag instead of a brush is because of the easy cleanup. THANK YOU for your tip about reusing the brush! I will use that in the future. I will also buy some flakes and make my own.
Jim, Sounds great. You can use grain alcohol too. Something to consider. Shellac is way better than poly. Enjoy!
Thank you my friend I have just been watching your video on making your own schellac but struggled with the weights when I mixed mine I didn’t think of the scales that you used such a simple thing and it will make it so much easier and better thanks very much
Glad I could help. All the best to you!
Been making and using shellac for years, all colors and cuts. You’re right about the clarity and convenience. Years ago I did quite a lot of antique restoration. French polish technique lends itself to turning beautifully. Loving your videos.
Wonderful! Thank you! Happy Turning!
Shellacking first also keeps CA glue from staining when filling little cracks
I have been making OB shine juice with shellac, and occasionally using spray shellac, but I haven’t yet made my own shellac.
But you’ve sold me on making my own. Thanks Kent. Stay well!
Sounds great! Have fun. Happy Turning!
I haven't tried making shellac but I will be trying it.
Excellent! Happy Turning!
Kent, I enjoy your vids. Yes, I make and use shellac, typically mix an 8lb cut and thin as necessary at time of use. I buy blonde In flake form and keep some soluble powdered pigment on hand. This way I have total control over both viscosity and hue. I really appreciate making it as I need it as apposed to buying a big can at the home center and then watching it age out.
Hello friend. Does shellac darken over time?
Thanks Kent. Good information. I’m ordering some and going to try this.
Sounds good Kevin. Enjoy and Happy Turning!
I use one pound cut shellac same as you. It's such an easy finish!
Great video ❤
Glad you liked it!!
I have used shellac in a mix for friction polish. With the said I moved back to Mylars because all those additives that keep the product good on the shelves works great on my shelves as well. And I did have an issue with my friction polish over time turning sticky. Something to do with the BLO I presume but may also be with the Zinzer shellac mixed with the BLO and Denatured Alcohol as opposed to pure Shellac and BLO and Alcohol. Would love to see a video of making rub on polish.
I learned to mix and use shellac in high school for fine art. Im here 20 years later to learn how to use it on wood 😊
That is awesome! All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Thanks for sharing Kent! I presently use store bought shellac and denatured alcohol as sanding sealer. Will consider buying the shellac flakes and making my own! And I will definitely try using this on tear out. Thanks! Gary
Sounds good Gary. Enjoy and Happy Turning!
Hi Kent, I too make my own shellac. I crush the flakes a bit, prior to adding the alcohol. The "pre crush" step allows the shellac to dissolve much faster. I do [usually] filter the final product. I'll also agitate [shake] the stuff once in a while as it is going into solution. You have great videos and I thank you!
Hi Raymond Wyse from Edinburgh I've been making shellac for a year now and I prefer the 2lbs cut ps great videos
Hi, just fell across your channel and I’m here to stay. I’ve always used store bought, because it is so much easier, but you’ve converted me. Thanks for advice and guidance, it was very clear and concise. Great job! Cheers, Sean
Awesome! Thank you!
Not done it this way before but will now! I ordered Liberon flakes from Amazon UK.
Kent, we bought the shellac and made the finish solution, We started with a small bowl we did in White Birch ... So first coat this even ... More to come
Fantastic! Enjoy!
I use shellac all the time. for the most non toxic finish Everclear 195 proof grain alcohol works well , there is also Klean Strip GREEN denatured alcohol which is about 95% ethanol. The red can is only about 50% ethanol ( more yucky stuff) . I use blonde, amber ruby and garnet flakes (mostly dewaxed) so any finish can go on as a top coat, the color of the shellac I match to the wood , light woods I use blond the darker woods the darker color, ruby and garnet bring out the rich color in walnut and cherry.
Fantastic! Thank you for sharing! Good info! Happy Turning!
I am looking for a new finish for my Black Walnut bowls so i ordered the blond flakes a couple of days ago and plan on making both a one pound and a 2 pound cut. What i really like about it is the very quick dry time. I turn a lot of live edge Black Walnut bowls and the store bought in the can stuff will darken the sap wood part just a little. I used another product-Tru Oil- that gave a great finish but the cure time was too long for me. I have high hopes for the blond flakes. Thanks for the vid and I booked marked your sight
Thank you, David! I hope you enjoy making your own shellac. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Always great useful information and experts tips in your amazing channel, I used shellac mainly for the yellowing effect they leave behind but; never came to my mind the way you mix it and the true useful things behind using it. Thanks for shearing this video with us 🙏🏼
My pleasure, Al. Happy Turning!
Did not know it was so easy. Thanks
I have just made a batch like yours, it’s the first time I have made my own so fingers crossed I have done it right, thank you
Congrats! I think you'll like it!
Thanks Kent, it did take a about 72 hrs to dissolve but that was my fault by not stirring it enough but lesson learned.
I always use shellac on all my projects... whether they be turning or flat. It fills in like you said, and seals the wood very nicely. And unlike most other finishes. It will work with oil or water base finishes if you choose to do something over it. I recently used Heartwood... I didn't realize it would brown over time... especially in the sun. So, I put on one coat of shellac and then put on a Marine Spar Varnish with UVA inhibitors. Worked great with the shellac.
That's a great idea! Happy Turning!
Thanks for your info.
As a part time hobby turner living in Korea,
your video is a textbook for me.
It shall be highly appreciated if you explain all the measurement in metric also.
Inch, once, pound etc are common in only US but not in other countries.
Your video is not only for American.
Thanks for the reminder. I will see what I can do for you. I will updated the article associated with this video, here turnawoodbowl.com/shellac All the best to you (in Korea) and Happy Turning!
I have begun to look for Your well informing videos. Thank You !
Welcome! Thank you! Happy Turning!
Excellent video Kent. I will definitely do this.
Hope you enjoy. Happy Turning!
Thank you for this valuable information. Phil Anderson uses shellac in almost every video but didn't explain, where he's got it or if he made it himself. I'll try this recipe out. You have the gift to explain in a calm and understandable way, its always a pleasure to watch your videos. They are very helpful for beginners (at the age of 62) like me . Greetings from northern germany . Stefan
Yes great video. I make Native American flutes out of cedar and the wood is so soft . I don’t what to use Verathane or anything like that. So I might try this ,thank you.
I think it could work for you. Best of luck!
After many years of using shellac, I would highly recommend using grain alcohol rather than denatured alcohol to make shellac. It is food safe before it dries, it smells much better and is shelf stable longer. 190 proof is plenty pure, available at most liquor stores, a little more expensive than denatured, but a gallon will last a very long time.
Great suggestion. Thanks for sharing!
Actually, go even cheaper and just use isopropyl alcohol. Then you won't be tempted to drink it :)
Hey Kent... Just stumbled upon this. I was looking for a way to make my own shellac for the electric guitars I've started building (as a retirement hobby - hehehe). Did not realize it was soooo easy to make. Thanks
Hey there. Yup, super easy to make. Have fun!
I have learned to love shellac, but I've never mixed my own. I'm going to do it. Thank you. Great job, Kent. Great website by the way.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks!
If you need it quicker than 24 hours -- we would sometimes sit the jar of shellac in a basin of hot water to speed up the process. It dissolved much faster when warmed up.
Thanks, Kent! This is definitely going to help me with tearout. Sounds like this may replace sanding sealer, just without the naughty chemicals. Thanks!!
Yes it will. Plus sanding sealer has abrasives that reduce the clarity of the finish. Happy Turning!
Hi Kent, I just watched your video about making shellac for the third time. I have a couple of thoughts I hope you will find helpful. I decided to make shellac after watching your video the first time. I bought the flakes from the vendor you mentioned and made a 1 pound cut following your instructions. The shellac turned out just as you described and the bowl looks great. However... there is always a "however". After the shellac dried I noticed the grain raised. Now I am not a LAZY person but if I can avoid sanding I will. So I started researching the denatured alcohol you used in the video. Before I did this research all I knew about denatured alcohol was how to spell it. I looked at the ingredients to determine if any of them would raise the wood grain. As you probably know, a manufacturer can use just about anything to denature the alcohol so we don’t drink it. Well the manufacturer of the denatured alcohol we used put at least two chemicals in it that raises the grain. After a bit more research I learned that manufacturers routinely use just about any additive they choose and change their recipe as needed. Now, I was on a mission to find something that would make a great shellac and leave the finished product food safe (which is not the case with denatured alcohol). The product I found is made by “The Northern Maine Distilling Company”. Yup, I said “distilling”. This company makes a 200 proof food grade ethyl alcohol. It is named “Culinary Solvent 200 Proof”. I bought it, made shellac with it and used the shellac on a few bowls. You would not know the difference from it and shellac made with denatured alcohol, EXCEPT the shellac is food safe, doesn’t stink, the grain is not raised and it dries in a few minutes. You can almost see the alcohol evaporating from the bowl. Those are the good points. The only down side, that I found, is that it is a bit more expensive than denatured alcohol. If this information is new to you, check out the company products at www.culinarysolvent.com.
Al, Thank you so much! What a great find. I just ordered a gallon. Let's see how it works. I'm sure it will be great. Thanks again and Happy Turning!
I never made shellac. I use Zinsser Shellac as a sanding sealer and it works great. I have not tried it as a final finish. I may buy some flakes and give it a try. Haven't decided yet. I put the flakes on my wish list at Amazon. I read the comment below about controversies surrounding whether shellac is food safe. I researched this. The Food and Drug Administration in 21 CFR §175.300 says it is generally recognized as safe. Just thought you would like to know.
Best of luck with it! I think you'll like the homemade shellac.
I used shellac about 10 years ago. I mixed a small amount to a thinish dilution to seal a carving. It worked well and looked good. I still have the leftover flakes. I will mix some more up and use it on some the work I'm doing now and see how it comes out.
Sounds great. Best of luck to you. Enjoy!
i have not used shellac before but i intend to give it a go . thanks for all the infomation
You're welcome!
Friend you are very talented ... Congratulations on what you do !!!
Thank you! Cheers! Happy Turning!
Definitely making my own now.
Enjoy David! Happy Turning!
This is great information as I am waiting for my first lathe to arrive
Great video can’t. Very good information!👍🏻
But it CAN! ;) Thank you, James! Happy Turning!
I will for sure try this. Thanks!
Hope you like it! Happy Turning!
May thanks Ken I've been wanting to do this for some time now and your explanation is brilliant so here goes.
Glad to help Happy Turning!
Happy turning to you too :-)
Thank you for sharing.... Im from Holland and as far as i know the shellac is not used so much as in the USA.
Thanks to this video im going to give it a go.
Greetings from Holland.
Peter, Sounds great! All the best to you in Holland!
I make cutting boards and use a beeswax oil mix to seal the boards. A very interestng point you mentioned is that it acts as a glue to hold wood fibres together. Would also work on cutting boards
Yes, indeed. Happy Turning!
Thank you for the useful information.
You are welcome Shawn! Happy Turning!
Now that I have the materials I’ll be making my own. Thank you
Enjoy and Happy Turning!
Thank you for the great info!
I made a small bottle of 2 lb cut and used it on several bowls.
I was running low so I diluted it down to about a 1 lb cut and I really like it!
Thanks again!
Great job! And it's nice to be able to thin it as needed. Happy Turning!
I make classical guitars and have made shellac from flakes to French Polish them. Shellac is a great sealer (cheap) and goes on fast and doesn't gather dust .. at least when dong French Polish. I alternate shellac with an oil when I do my guitars and my turnings. The stuff in cans at the store give shellac a bad name. I like your video as it show just how easy the process is.
Fantastic. Thanks for sharing. When you say you alternate, do you apply an oil, like linseed over the shellac, let it dry and then apply another coat of shellac?
@@TurnAWoodBowl
I use a french polish on my guitars. I try to use a method close to this on my wood turnings. Carnauba wax is applied after the shellac has hardened. I first seal the wood with a good coat of shellac. After the shellac is dry I sand the wood smooth. Reverse sanding if possible then the french polish.
Method for french polish (on guitars): Using a pad with a wod of wood in side, a few drops of oil olive, grape seed or walnut then a few drops of shellac. Using a figure 8 pattern with light pressure this is applied so a 'comet trail' can be seen. (takes some practise to master this) This process is repeated many times to build a layer of finish. After the the shellac has dried and hardened this gets buffed. On a guitar this can takes weeks. Then a carnauba wax like Mothers is applied to really make it shine.
On turnings I use a paper towel (pad if it's safe to do so) and more oil and shellac each cycle at 324 speed. After this dries I speed it up and buff with an old sock... still working on this.
Kent - I definitely plan on making some of my own. It was a great tip about using it for punky wood. I have used it as a sort of sanding sealer, but didn't know about its use for punky wood. I will definitely put it to the test soon!
Right on Brad. Enjoy and Happy Turning!
Great advice Ken and good tips too. I am up and running now with this, I made a 1.5lb cut to start with but may dilute it to one. Cheers
Fantastic! Enjoy and Happy Turning!
Awesome video, man.
Thank you, Luke! Happy Turning!
Thanks Kent I am gonna try that approach. Cheers and stay safe from MT.
Hope you enjoy. Thanks! Cheers!
I use a one pound cut as a sealer on almost all turnings, compatible with all finishes I use
Hi Kent great videos , just bought Kilo of flakes , eager to use them , thanks for the info , cheers
Hope you enjoy. Happy Turning!
Very interesting.Shay
Glad you think so!
Thanks, this help me out a lot.
Glad to hear it! Enjoy and Happy Turning!
Garry not Linda. Denatured alcohol does not spontaneously combust like oil based products can. I just hang the paper towel or rag over the edge of my garbage can and in minutes it will dry out, no problem. All shellacs and lacquers are food safe after they're dried and cured but making your own like this pretty much guarantees there will be no issues. One point that I'm not sure was mentioned, lacquer or shellac are not moisture resistant. If the item is going to possibly become wet it's best to find a water resistant finish such as epoxy or a marine spar varnish or a clean oil such as walnut oil on a cutting board. Shellac is also not a good finish for outdoor use. Great job on the tutorial Kent. I was a third generation painter and wood finisher that is now a newbie woodturner and new subscriber to your channel. I did some turning many years ago but finally have the time to buckle down and do it. I haven't gone through all of the information on your channel and website yet. I'm working on it. Oh and the soak the shellac brush trick is one that I've done for years. I do the same with lacquer brushes. They do take a little longer to soften up. I've got a whole selection of one and two inch brushes hanging on a rack for clear and amber shellac and clear lacquer. I write what they are for on the handles. Keep up the good work.
Hi Garry. I'm curious about what you use for DA after reading what Steve Blight wrote about it. So far, I have just bought DA at Lowes without any thought about it. Thanks
Garry, Thanks for sharing. Great information and you bring up several good points. Thanks for sharing and thanks for subscribing too! Happy Turning!
@@josephwise485 I'm going to have to do a little digging but I've never heard of anyone having an issue with standard denatured alcohol. If you follow any of the turners like Mike Peace, Mike Waldt, Martin Saban-Smith, or Eddie Castelin, they've been using off the shelf DA for many more years than I have in their turned pieces and had no problem. The food safe thing gets blown out of proportion at times. Once the solvents have dried and allowed to cure lacquer and shellac are considered completely food safe but as I mentioned in my other comment neither are good finishes for a moist environment they will fail quickly. I believe Mike Peace did a video on food safe finishes and maybe Alan Stratton at As Wood Turns. I know that if there is any question both of them use walnut oil on their pieces and re-oil them as needed. Sorry to go on so long in such a small space.
@@bassrun101 OK, thanks.
Tim R Plattsmouth NE, I love the Bowl, and the turn a Bowl Class. Thanks Tim
Thank you for entering! Happy Turning!
Hi Kent - can you use isopropyl instead of denatured? Thanks! Great information.
Robyn, I haven't tried it. It might. Experiment with a small amount and see if it dissolves. It will take overnight. Happy Turning!
Great video I definitely plan o making shellac.
You should I think you'll like it! Happy Turning!
never used will try thanks
Thank you so much for this video. Could this be used to make friction polish. With tung oil maybe?
Yes you can!