0:00 - What are Breadboard Ends? 1:32 - The Haunched Tenon Version 11:14 - The Long Tenon Version 14:11 - The Greene & Greene Inspired Screw Version 18:06 - The Domino Version
You're getting pretty good at this woodworking stuff :) Thanks for another amazing tutorial. This is hands-down the best explanation of breadboards and their construction that I've come across.
I just got a job were I need to make 8 four seater tables for a restaurant and the client asked for the wood board still. So this is perfect timing for me. Thanks for giving us a couple options and making it entertaining as well.
Best video by far on breadboard explanation. Been doing them forever and I've watched several videos to see other craftsman's techniques and most just don't really understand wood movement. This is a great video and anyone wanting to make tabletops with breadboards should absolutely watch this.
The lady who slapped you - wife? - she’s got an amazing laugh. And she’s clearly down for anything to help you. Pass this thumbs up along to her. Cheers!
Thank you Mark for video. Your timing is amazing. I’m headed to the shop this weekend to do my very first breadboards ends on a dining table and bench. I’m going for the honchoed tenon approach. This video reassured my plan. Thanks again.
It was an extremely fortuitous algorithm which placed this in my suggestions. I have been commissioned to build a dining room table with breadboard ends! Thank you for the heads up. Liked and subscribed!
That was great and very kind of you to let Nicole get some of her frustration out. ha ha. I didn't know this screw method was even a thing. I had never seen that before. Good information!
mostly self taught and now with an amazing amount of help from You Tube, Thank You for this I never heard of it and believe it will be helpful for the next CC Sled I build which will be pretty wide.
This video was extremely helpful. I used the haunched tenon method on the dining table I just finished (my first table build)! All the tips you presented were of great value and used, including the little overhang of the breadboard edge on the sides of the table.
We're doing a 4' wide by 100" long 1.5" thick oak table for a customer, and were wonding how best to do the breadboard ends on it. Thanks for the video, it's a massive help!
Great technique tutorial, Marc~! I've not had a project where I would use this, but whenever I do, I'll be reviewing this video again. Very clear & concise instruction. ...and Nicole's input was appropo as well~!! :-)
This probably is basic but for me o tend to get excited for the completed project and push expansion to the back. Always good to be reminded of how to deal with expansion over time
Excellent video, as usual, and I thank you for it. One thing I do love about all your videos is the sound: I am not adjusting my volume slider as you roll into a montage with super loud background music, nor am I listening to power tools without hearing protection while straining to hear your voice. I adjust the volume according to my auditory environment, not the one created by the video. You seem to be pretty awesome at this sound mixing thing and I wish more people were as well. Thanks for that as well. :-)
Thanks very much Troy! I'm pretty picky about sound quality when I can afford to be. Our videos these days are usually edited by a gentleman named Todd. He does the audio sweetening but there's usually a little back and forth as we try to get just the right levels for voice and background noise. Between the two of us we usually end up with something decent. I really appreciate the feedback.
Where I live in New England if breadboard ends don’t allow for wood movement the top would fail in less than a year. The summers are humid and the winters are dry. I usually make the breadboard ends flush with the edge of the top so that I can see how much the top expands and contracts throughout the year. Yes, I do check on them because I’m weird like that.
Thank you Mark. Just did my first Haunched Tenon version. Of course. I hate sneaking up on the size... It's like I never want to get there. I guess also sir, it's good for game time. Every activity improves something.The router wanted to get away from me a few times and my coping saw did not like me. This Saturday I'll complete the "other side" Haunched Tenon, make the dowels, drill the holes and find what other part of the breadboard ends I did not get straight :) Great instruction, inspiration and delivery to make me think I can do it - As always!
Thank you. This video is helpful. There was a while, I was mostly self taught from books. That's okay, but not ideal. I used to make coffee tables from scrape wood, and sell them to people I knew. I got twenty dollars a table. I was rich. The problem was, people brought back the tables, because they broke. They demanded their money back, but I could see the foot prints on the coffee table. I said, "It's coffee table, not something to dance on." Students are crazy. I learned to make coffee tables, that you could dance on. That was a long time ago. I know someone who makes kitchen cabinets for a living, but he make all his own furniture. He needed a desk for his son, so he made one. It was nice desk, but the top was plywood, with a wood grain formica top. I said, "Why did you put a formica top, on such a nice desk?" He said, "I live in the real world. My son is going to abuse this desk, and formica will take that abuse. " All his furniture he makes, is like that. It's either pretty, or it works. He has a kitchen table, with a bread board end, and each board, has a space between it, and the next board. There is no splitting when you do that.
Novice woodworker here. At first I thought that the screw method looked easiest, but then I thought of two problems. First, when the screws move back and forth over time, might not the holes get worn down and or split the wood? Second, If the screw head tilts underneath the cap, might it not knock the cap out? Great techniques, though, I definitely want to try these!
Replying to an old question that nobody answered. 1. No, the screw flexes a lot more than the threads that are gripping into the timber. 2. Any such pressures won't split the wood. It's only small amount of clamping pressure anyway. Timber is MUCH stronger than you might think. 3. Screws only split timber if you don't drill a pilot hole and a clearance hole.. Learn how to use screws properly, and NEVER use a screw to drill into the material, as you create a wedge that will tend to split. So, that means a Countersink or Counterbore for the Head, a Clearance Hole for the screw's Shank, and a Pilot hole for the screw's Threads. 4. The screw thread won't tilt - there is another inch of the screw's shank under the head, fitting snugly within the clearance hole. 5. The caps aren't usually touching the screw heads. They seat onto the counterbore, whilst the screw head is countersunk below that.
Awesome video. I had no idea there was that many variations of the bread board and the offset dowel hole on the outside tenons is genius. Great video, very informative and well done.
Wow! Good video...! It is very useful to know the different options for performing a particular task. Thank you very much. I always watch your master classes with pleasure. Take care of yourself there.
Thank you! Your video video helped me accomplish this task with minimal frustration! Also found out pencil sharpener works amazing to round the dowel ends for the sweep!
You never disappoint! I bought that domi I and I intend to get my money's worth! I did this on my dresser with dominoes and it has worked great several years on. It's fun to watch the panel expand and contract over the seasons too.
Just when I'm thinking "yeah, I want to get into woodoworking" I see videos explaining these advanced concepts when I would have just laminated or pocket-screwed them together.
Thank you for this video. You made this subject so easy to understand. I have watched several decent videos on this topic but yours has been the best. Great outtakes by the way. You had me chuckling at the end there. I'm going to show my wife that part. I'm pretty sure sometimes she'd like to belt me one having to listen to my yammering on and on about technical woodworking topics. Great job once again man!
Excellent tutorial. I'm doing a cherry dining table with the long tenon version. I have 3.25" breadboards and I used a router bit with a 2" long cutting length for a 1.75" deep mortise and it was definitely pushing the limit. It's not the cleanest mortise but it works. Probably won't try to go that deep again until I invest in a mortising machine.
Great video. You’re an excellent teacher dude! Wish I could take some in-person classes with you because it would stick better seeing and hearing while actually making cuts and laying out the lines. Really good work though. Thanks
I made some bread boards on a desk top and drilled all the way through on the bread boards. I was using pine and draw boring. I must have offset the holes too much because it ended up blowing out the grain on bottom of the bread board. Moral of the story, don’t use pine when draw boring. Also, Nicole should have ko’d you to the floor for the pocket hole comment. But a lot of people get away with it by placing the legs, of say, a farmhouse table directly underneath the joint. Which further complicates things and locks things in place keeping the wood from moving. Thanks for showing the correct ways of making them. But I have a feeling it’s not going to stop people from still using pocket holes in bread boards. Always enjoy your content!
I’ve always wanted to try a mitered breadboard… just so there’s no end grain at all. Would have to pre assemble it kinda like a picture frame. Then cut it straight across (with the miters glued), and then tenon it back in place like normal but only losing the saw kerf as far as grain matching up. Just haven’t had a table top project that I wanted to use bread boards in awhile… but the next chance I get I’m going for it!
This is something that the Festool Domino made anyone think it's easy to do. I still see so many people it with purely dominos and glue and do it on very high priced tables and no matter what I say, they refuse to believe they're doing anything wrong.
Hahaha "You could always use a drill and a chisel...That sounds terrible!" Where were you 3 years ago with that information, when I was making a door with 4in tenons!?! Now I look back and say "yeah that was dumb and overkill" Great segment!
Marc - You should clip the scene with Nicole slapping you and publish it as a separate post. I suspect it will be a big money maker for you on UA-cam!!!
You mean gluing each end of the breadboard? That's a bad idea. That would restrict the movement of the top. Glued in the center of the breadboard would work.
Brilliant, thanks. If you're making a 1½" thick or above table top, you could use a 1/2" kitchen worktop router bit. Here (UK) you can get them 2½" long (63mm) blade so should be deep enough for mortices in the thicker stock. Nice slappy lady should be employed on other videos!
Would it be OK to have The fix the end of the bread board near the edge? That way the front edge would always be aligned, and the package can grow and shrink and be less visible.
She certainly looked like she was enjoying herself. I imagine this is how the conversation went: "Honey, for the first part of video, I want you to slap me when I make a wrong - "OKAY!!" - statement...I didn't finish asking!"
Nicole should have slapped you that 3ed time just for good measure lmaooo I'm sure you'll earn it sooner or later anyway! Mark this is why you are one of the very few wood-related content creators I watch, I'm not constantly screaming at the screen saying That going to split when the wood moves! I would get so upset watching those damm DIY woodworking videos and reading all the comments on how fantastic and how much of an amazing craftsman those UA-camrs were when in the back of my head I know nothing they made will last as they don't understand the fundamentals of build with wood. sorry for the rant lmaoo
Great video. You mention using a 12x50 domino but use the DF500. I plan to to this today on a 50mm Oak top with 14mm dominos and have the center domino a D14 connector, curious if the connector will pull the breadboard tight. I will use the DF700 and only have the center D14 connector tight, the rest will be loose and maybe even plunge twice to get several mm more width. Slab width is 570mm or so, I plan on 4 dominos and 1 connector.
On the joints you have talked about if your thinking about epoxy the table would you A.recommend epoxy method with with these joints or B. Change the style of joints.
I’m in bed with CV. I got such a laugh with the blooper reel slap at the end. Thank you for all you do for our community. And thank you for the laugh, I really needed it.
What about finishing across breadboards with a film finish like poly? Do you score the finish across the joint? Let it shear as it wills with wood movement? Chamfer the end of the panel and the long interior side of the breadboard?
Mark, great tutorial..! I wonder if the breadboard should still be proud of the table top if you are building the table in the summer heat and humidity? Looking forward to your take and thanks in advance
I’ve been trying to get away from pocket screws in the ends after doing much needed research but I can’t make myself drill holes thru the top or sides. I guess doing them almost like you would a shaker style door would work right? Cut the tongue and groove then glue?
0:00 - What are Breadboard Ends?
1:32 - The Haunched Tenon Version
11:14 - The Long Tenon Version
14:11 - The Greene & Greene Inspired Screw Version
18:06 - The Domino Version
Perfect timing, about to do this for a coffee table my wife asked me to make. Can you also link to the dowel plate you use?
We q
The deep mortises are 2 1/2” wide x 1 1/2” deep. Where do you buy a 1/4” x 1 1/2” router bit?
Loved seeing the old wood whisper humor. Been missing it. You guys are hilarious thanks for bringing a little brightness to my day.
Thanks so much for this. You have the best demonstration of this I've seen on UA-cam mate
You're getting pretty good at this woodworking stuff :) Thanks for another amazing tutorial. This is hands-down the best explanation of breadboards and their construction that I've come across.
Thanks man!
By far, the most clear and concise breadboard video I've seen! Thank you!
Is there a Patreon level that allows us to purchase more slaps?
I just got a job were I need to make 8 four seater tables for a restaurant and the client asked for the wood board still. So this is perfect timing for me. Thanks for giving us a couple options and making it entertaining as well.
Best video by far on breadboard explanation. Been doing them forever and I've watched several videos to see other craftsman's techniques and most just don't really understand wood movement. This is a great video and anyone wanting to make tabletops with breadboards should absolutely watch this.
Marc always explains his process very clearly. What a great instructor.
I appreciate that!
Best WOODWORKING instructor EVER
this video just gave my skills a big upgrade!
Thank you for providing accurate clear information. There is a lot of sub-par woodworking information out there. This is what the people need.
I can't believe she'd hit a guy with glasses 😳
Excellent explanation of breadboard ends
The lady who slapped you - wife? - she’s got an amazing laugh. And she’s clearly down for anything to help you. Pass this thumbs up along to her.
Cheers!
Thank you Mark for video. Your timing is amazing. I’m headed to the shop this weekend to do my very first breadboards ends on a dining table and bench. I’m going for the honchoed tenon approach. This video reassured my plan. Thanks again.
Great info.... Hilarious fact is there was a pop-up ad for Teds Woodworking on the bottom of the video...
Thank you so much for this tutorial. It was truly helpful for a beginner like me. I love how clearly you teach.
Thank you for this video! The draw bore really helped me when I made the breadboards for my dining table.
It was an extremely fortuitous algorithm which placed this in my suggestions. I have been commissioned to build a dining room table with breadboard ends! Thank you for the heads up. Liked and subscribed!
👍
That was great and very kind of you to let Nicole get some of her frustration out. ha ha. I didn't know this screw method was even a thing. I had never seen that before. Good information!
Thanks man!
What timing! I'm just starting my first dining table project and want to do breadboard ends. Lots of good info in this video! Thanks! 😃
This video came at the perfect time. I’m doing my first breadboards here in a couple weeks.
Mark, this is with no doubt the best video I've seen on this topic!! Thank you so much keep them coming!!!
mostly self taught and now with an amazing amount of help from You Tube,
Thank You for this I never heard of it and believe it will be helpful for the next CC Sled I build which will be pretty wide.
This is a great video , I learned a lot and have watched several times. Thank you for posting
Glad it was helpful!
This video was extremely helpful. I used the haunched tenon method on the dining table I just finished (my first table build)! All the tips you presented were of great value and used, including the little overhang of the breadboard edge on the sides of the table.
We're doing a 4' wide by 100" long 1.5" thick oak table for a customer, and were wonding how best to do the breadboard ends on it. Thanks for the video, it's a massive help!
I have never heard this guy whisper.....
He's good
but Wood has.
I am really enjoying learning and watching everything you post 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Great technique tutorial, Marc~! I've not had a project where I would use this, but whenever I do, I'll be reviewing this video again. Very clear & concise instruction.
...and Nicole's input was appropo as well~!! :-)
So glad you are making videos again!
Me too. After a week break, it's really nice to get back at it.
@@woodwhisperer one of these days you'll make it on youtube, I'm sure of it!
This probably is basic but for me o tend to get excited for the completed project and push expansion to the back. Always good to be reminded of how to deal with expansion over time
Best explanation on the technique I’ve come across, thanks!
Excellent video, as usual, and I thank you for it. One thing I do love about all your videos is the sound: I am not adjusting my volume slider as you roll into a montage with super loud background music, nor am I listening to power tools without hearing protection while straining to hear your voice. I adjust the volume according to my auditory environment, not the one created by the video. You seem to be pretty awesome at this sound mixing thing and I wish more people were as well. Thanks for that as well. :-)
Thanks very much Troy! I'm pretty picky about sound quality when I can afford to be. Our videos these days are usually edited by a gentleman named Todd. He does the audio sweetening but there's usually a little back and forth as we try to get just the right levels for voice and background noise. Between the two of us we usually end up with something decent. I really appreciate the feedback.
Excellent video. Thank you 😊
Where I live in New England if breadboard ends don’t allow for wood movement the top would fail in less than a year. The summers are humid and the winters are dry. I usually make the breadboard ends flush with the edge of the top so that I can see how much the top expands and contracts throughout the year. Yes, I do check on them because I’m weird like that.
Thank you Mark. Just did my first Haunched Tenon version. Of course. I hate sneaking up on the size... It's like I never want to get there. I guess also sir, it's good for game time. Every activity improves something.The router wanted to get away from me a few times and my coping saw did not like me. This Saturday I'll complete the "other side" Haunched Tenon, make the dowels, drill the holes and find what other part of the breadboard ends I did not get straight :) Great instruction, inspiration and delivery to make me think I can do it - As always!
Excelente trabajo y demostración! Felicitaciones! Germán, Montevideo, Uruguay.
Another excellent video - yet again - Thank you very much !
Great video, fantastic pace, very practical, honesty one of your guys' best
Much appreciated!
Thank you. This video is helpful. There was a while, I was mostly self taught from books. That's okay, but not ideal. I used to make coffee tables from scrape wood, and sell them to people I knew. I got twenty dollars a table. I was rich. The problem was, people brought back the tables, because they broke. They demanded their money back, but I could see the foot prints on the coffee table. I said, "It's coffee table, not something to dance on." Students are crazy. I learned to make coffee tables, that you could dance on. That was a long time ago. I know someone who makes kitchen cabinets for a living, but he make all his own furniture. He needed a desk for his son, so he made one. It was nice desk, but the top was plywood, with a wood grain formica top. I said, "Why did you put a formica top, on such a nice desk?" He said, "I live in the real world. My son is going to abuse this desk, and formica will take that abuse. " All his furniture he makes, is like that. It's either pretty, or it works. He has a kitchen table, with a bread board end, and each board, has a space between it, and the next board. There is no splitting when you do that.
Novice woodworker here. At first I thought that the screw method looked easiest, but then I thought of two problems. First, when the screws move back and forth over time, might not the holes get worn down and or split the wood? Second, If the screw head tilts underneath the cap, might it not knock the cap out? Great techniques, though, I definitely want to try these!
Replying to an old question that nobody answered.
1. No, the screw flexes a lot more than the threads that are gripping into the timber.
2. Any such pressures won't split the wood. It's only small amount of clamping pressure anyway. Timber is MUCH stronger than you might think.
3. Screws only split timber if you don't drill a pilot hole and a clearance hole.. Learn how to use screws properly, and NEVER use a screw to drill into the material, as you create a wedge that will tend to split. So, that means a Countersink or Counterbore for the Head, a Clearance Hole for the screw's Shank, and a Pilot hole for the screw's Threads.
4. The screw thread won't tilt - there is another inch of the screw's shank under the head, fitting snugly within the clearance hole.
5. The caps aren't usually touching the screw heads. They seat onto the counterbore, whilst the screw head is countersunk below that.
Great video, as usual. I have been watching you since day 1 and reallly appreciate your guidance
Awesome video. I had no idea there was that many variations of the bread board and the offset dowel hole on the outside tenons is genius. Great video, very informative and well done.
Wow! Good video...! It is very useful to know the different options for performing a particular task. Thank you very much. I always watch your master classes with pleasure. Take care of yourself there.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you! Your video video helped me accomplish this task with minimal frustration! Also found out pencil sharpener works amazing to round the dowel ends for the sweep!
That tommy bobblehead is great lol i cant say i ever noticed it but amazing video as always! already cant wait for the next one!
You never disappoint! I bought that domi I and I intend to get my money's worth! I did this on my dresser with dominoes and it has worked great several years on. It's fun to watch the panel expand and contract over the seasons too.
Beautiful work Marc!
Many thanks!
Just when I'm thinking "yeah, I want to get into woodoworking" I see videos explaining these advanced concepts when I would have just laminated or pocket-screwed them together.
Great advice as usual. I most certainly would have done this wrong if not for watching this video! Thanks!
Thank you for this video. You made this subject so easy to understand. I have watched several decent videos on this topic but yours has been the best. Great outtakes by the way. You had me chuckling at the end there. I'm going to show my wife that part. I'm pretty sure sometimes she'd like to belt me one having to listen to my yammering on and on about technical woodworking topics. Great job once again man!
Excellent tutorial. I'm doing a cherry dining table with the long tenon version. I have 3.25" breadboards and I used a router bit with a 2" long cutting length for a 1.75" deep mortise and it was definitely pushing the limit. It's not the cleanest mortise but it works. Probably won't try to go that deep again until I invest in a mortising machine.
Not sure who was enjoying the slapping at the beginning more, you or Nicole. 😂
Great explaning video. 🤗
Great video. You’re an excellent teacher dude! Wish I could take some in-person classes with you because it would stick better seeing and hearing while actually making cuts and laying out the lines. Really good work though. Thanks
ok... using the domino's was pretty cool, would not have considered using that method!! Very cool!
Glad it helped!
I made some bread boards on a desk top and drilled all the way through on the bread boards. I was using pine and draw boring. I must have offset the holes too much because it ended up blowing out the grain on bottom of the bread board. Moral of the story, don’t use pine when draw boring. Also, Nicole should have ko’d you to the floor for the pocket hole comment. But a lot of people get away with it by placing the legs, of say, a farmhouse table directly underneath the joint. Which further complicates things and locks things in place keeping the wood from moving. Thanks for showing the correct ways of making them. But I have a feeling it’s not going to stop people from still using pocket holes in bread boards. Always enjoy your content!
If we save just one table, it will all be worth it. 😂
The Wood Whisperer Saving tables, one bread board at a time.
Perfect job marc i like the way of your work !
Nicole: I think we need to do another take... wait one more time... I swear I’ll get it right this time! 🤣
Wow! Great video!
I don't think I'll be doing this any time soon. I hate having that overhang on the top. I'll stick to standard glueups.
I’ve always wanted to try a mitered breadboard… just so there’s no end grain at all. Would have to pre assemble it kinda like a picture frame. Then cut it straight across (with the miters glued), and then tenon it back in place like normal but only losing the saw kerf as far as grain matching up. Just haven’t had a table top project that I wanted to use bread boards in awhile… but the next chance I get I’m going for it!
End is the best
Great Video Marc! With a two Tylenol ending!!
I can't remember the last time I saw an actual breadboard with breadboard ends.
Wonderful video Marc. Thank you!
This helped out alot, thnx
Excellent work and a great video. Well done!
Pretty interesting! 😃
Thanks a lot for all the tips, dude!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
🖖🏻
This is something that the Festool Domino made anyone think it's easy to do. I still see so many people it with purely dominos and glue and do it on very high priced tables and no matter what I say, they refuse to believe they're doing anything wrong.
Good information and video.
Hahaha "You could always use a drill and a chisel...That sounds terrible!" Where were you 3 years ago with that information, when I was making a door with 4in tenons!?! Now I look back and say "yeah that was dumb and overkill" Great segment!
That a Tom Silva bobblehead? Great video as always.
It is. He stands there judging me every day.
Marc - You should clip the scene with Nicole slapping you and publish it as a separate post. I suspect it will be a big money maker for you on UA-cam!!!
Sliding dovetail , but glued at the end of the end boards.
You mean gluing each end of the breadboard? That's a bad idea. That would restrict the movement of the top. Glued in the center of the breadboard would work.
Brilliant, thanks.
If you're making a 1½" thick or above table top, you could use a 1/2" kitchen worktop router bit. Here (UK) you can get them 2½" long (63mm) blade so should be deep enough for mortices in the thicker stock.
Nice slappy lady should be employed on other videos!
Would it be OK to have The fix the end of the bread board near the edge? That way the front edge would always be aligned, and the package can grow and shrink and be less visible.
Let's be real here, Mark earned those slaps and that wasn't acting on her part
She certainly looked like she was enjoying herself. I imagine this is how the conversation went: "Honey, for the first part of video, I want you to slap me when I make a wrong - "OKAY!!" - statement...I didn't finish asking!"
great video thanks!
Nicole should have slapped you that 3ed time just for good measure lmaooo I'm sure you'll earn it sooner or later anyway! Mark this is why you are one of the very few wood-related content creators I watch, I'm not constantly screaming at the screen saying That going to split when the wood moves! I would get so upset watching those damm DIY woodworking videos and reading all the comments on how fantastic and how much of an amazing craftsman those UA-camrs were when in the back of my head I know nothing they made will last as they don't understand the fundamentals of build with wood. sorry for the rant lmaoo
Nice, and a domino DF-700 can make up to a 2 3/4" deep mortise with a 14mm thick domino. That should work on a pretty large bread board.
Great video. You mention using a 12x50 domino but use the DF500. I plan to to this today on a 50mm Oak top with 14mm dominos and have the center domino a D14 connector, curious if the connector will pull the breadboard tight. I will use the DF700 and only have the center D14 connector tight, the rest will be loose and maybe even plunge twice to get several mm more width. Slab width is 570mm or so, I plan on 4 dominos and 1 connector.
On the joints you have talked about if your thinking about epoxy the table would you A.recommend epoxy method with with these joints or B. Change the style of joints.
Good stuff. I learned a bunch, but I'm not showing this to my wife, she might get ideas (the slapping part) :)
I’m in bed with CV. I got such a laugh with the blooper reel slap at the end. Thank you for all you do for our community. And thank you for the laugh, I really needed it.
What about finishing across breadboards with a film finish like poly? Do you score the finish across the joint? Let it shear as it wills with wood movement? Chamfer the end of the panel and the long interior side of the breadboard?
That was awesome, thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Relationship goals!! You guys are great! Love the hammer diversity too!! Lol
Mark, great tutorial..!
I wonder if the breadboard should still be proud of the table top if you are building the table in the summer heat and humidity? Looking forward to your take and thanks in advance
Call me old fashioned, but I like the first technique best.
Why the fret saw on the last example and not the coping saw as before in the prior ones?.
I’ve been trying to get away from pocket screws in the ends after doing much needed research but I can’t make myself drill holes thru the top or sides. I guess doing them almost like you would a shaker style door would work right? Cut the tongue and groove then glue?
Is that square you are using from bridge city. It's a thing of beauty.
Would this technique: oversized dowel holes: be used for a waterfall coffee table as well?
Love the shirt!
What are the Whisperer's thoughts on using steel c-channels to stabilize wood table tops?
What is the purpose of gluing the dowels? Won’t the draw bores take care of holding them in place if done properly?
What about beadlock? Not sure if you could really get the wider slot on the breadboard end?
thanks
How much expansion can be expected for different woods?