One set of rules that I have enjoyed for Napoleonic wargaming as been ESR (Et Sans Resultat) by The Wargaming Company. With other systems that I have tried over the years, you would need about 4 bases per battalion, cavalry squadron and sometimes 2-3 bases for a battery. ESR is 1 base= 1 battalion, cavalry squadron, battery and takes up less room on the table. Other systems is old school Napoleon's Battles, my first foray into this era of gaming and as well as Lasalle 2, which is also good. It all comes down to a matter of what is that you want from a rule set. One suggestion too for anyone wanting to get into it is to find a club and check it out. See what game they're using with what scale of miniatures as well.
Sharps Practice is the route I used to get started into both Napoleonic as well as ACW. I have become a proponent of finding a skirmish level game in the period of your interest and use that as a gateway towards larger army collecting. That is as far as 28mm goes. If you go smaller just dive in. I'm currently doing 15 and 10mm builds. Also the Epic sets are good.
That was very helpful. I've been playing a bit of Epic scale Pike and Shotte (English Civil War). I have been curious about doing Napoleonic's. I think I'll follow your suggestion about the small chunk approach and a bit larger scale (25-28mm) and skirmish to start.
Nice overview of jumping down the rabbit hole of Napoleonic wargaming. If I wasn't lured into the 7 Years' War period by Charles Grant's fantastic book and ruleset, "The Wargame", I probably would be fighting in this era.
@@markewald6995 I got into 7YW because it just looked so impressive, it was my first venture into 6mm minis as I realised I’d have to buy the armies and paint them to entice opponents… budget and painting ability etc. now I love the tiny men!! Even Warlord epics are huge now lol
Good to hear from you, @@lukefarrell6769, my old foe, lol. I'm glad to know there's another aficionado of warfare in Old Fritz's era. I have Prussian and French armies; what armies do you have?
The mid-range option is, in my opinion, the best approach to Napoleonic wargaming. Mid-range being the divisional to corps level rules approach. It allows for the tactical formations that were a major part of the period: column, line, and square infantry formations. Three distinct combat arms when compared to other eras. This mid-range approach to the period fits with any of the predominant figure scales today, from 6mm to 28mm. The larger, brigade level approach, diminishes the tactical formation aspect for the grand battle experience. In the end, it depends on what the individual is interested in recreating on the wargaming battlefield.
Very good points. I've fond memories of divisional-level games using the old WRG Horse-and- Musket period rules, (still one of the best). These days though I tend towards the "Army-level" approach. Sam Mustapha's "Fast-Play-Grand-Armee" is one of my go-tos even though its been superseded by Blucher. The command system is superb, and often revolves around "How the hell do I STOP the idiot in charge of my cavalry reserve attacking all that unshaken infantry?", as much as getting your troops to do something in the first place. As you say, it all depends on what you want to recreate/experience, and all can be equally valid and fun!
@@FelixstoweFoamForge I'm moving toward the newer rules General d' Armee 2. As you mention, these rules also add a degree of suspense with the use of ADCs and an initiative roll before each turn. They seem to be more streamlined since their first edition became available.
Another great episode buddy, i was always interested by naps... But, it's intimidating due to the scope..as I've aged, I've found it much more relaxed, plus in 6mm noone can count the buttons lol. Don't forget though your rules are cheaper than you advertised!! You just put dollars, yet really they're about half that price!!
I wanted to do both skirmish & larger ops, so I went for an intermediate scale, 1/72., with figures mounted on magnetic basing for versatility. For skirmish level rules I use Sharp Practice, but with the visual alteration that I substitute single figures with 2-3 fig bases (eg each line group = 8 X 3 fig bases), A link to 2 minute clip I posted showing how this approach looks on table ; ua-cam.com/video/l9EjeJTMjWo/v-deo.htmlsi=q6V-yqYtSYtZZgE5 I will also be using the same figures for larger battles, with a basic Shape Practice force containing roughly enough figures for a General D'Armee / Black Powder brigade.
There's a couple or three things missing from your interesting take on this, and that's storage, boardgames and naval games. Storage is always an issue with wargaming and the scale one chooses has a marked effect upon it. One can fit a 2mm army into a shoebox, a 28mm army would need a cupboard or two. I started wargaming 1/72nd WW2 but quickly moved onto hex and map games as you could play the whole world or one battlefield on a single table. There are many different boardgames covering this period and they also solve problem number one; a bookcase can hold the whole period. I find naval games just as fascinating as land based ones. One can fight single ship actions or whole fleets with the same scale. True, there's not as much fun to be had rivet counting with the painting but the whole era is replete with variety in both ship design and actions. Others may, of course, disagree.
![Why There's Never Been a Better Time to Start Napoleonics [Road to Leipzig Ep. 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qIdb4v88C7M/mqdefault.jpg)
Great primer on Napoleonics. Very interested in checking out your rules. Will give it a look. Thanks!
Good stuff. I think the most important tip for ANY period is the simple one; Learn the Period's history. The what, the why, the how.
I would add Neil Thomas' 'Napoleonic Wargaming' book. Only 8 units per side and you're set to go. Published by The History Press
One set of rules that I have enjoyed for Napoleonic wargaming as been ESR (Et Sans Resultat) by The Wargaming Company. With other systems that I have tried over the years, you would need about 4 bases per battalion, cavalry squadron and sometimes 2-3 bases for a battery. ESR is 1 base= 1 battalion, cavalry squadron, battery and takes up less room on the table.
Other systems is old school Napoleon's Battles, my first foray into this era of gaming and as well as Lasalle 2, which is also good. It all comes down to a matter of what is that you want from a rule set.
One suggestion too for anyone wanting to get into it is to find a club and check it out. See what game they're using with what scale of miniatures as well.
I would agree with the your points. With Napoleonics you can change the rules at any time. 👌
Sharps Practice is the route I used to get started into both Napoleonic as well as ACW. I have become a proponent of finding a skirmish level game in the period of your interest and use that as a gateway towards larger army collecting. That is as far as 28mm goes. If you go smaller just dive in. I'm currently doing 15 and 10mm builds. Also the Epic sets are good.
Nice overview. Can’t wait for the next campaign. The ACW one was great.
@@user-mc4sq3fk5d it’ll be great, live chats are fun as well if you’re available,
That was very helpful. I've been playing a bit of Epic scale Pike and Shotte (English Civil War). I have been curious about doing Napoleonic's. I think I'll follow your suggestion about the small chunk approach and a bit larger scale (25-28mm) and skirmish to start.
Nice overview of jumping down the rabbit hole of Napoleonic wargaming. If I wasn't lured into the 7 Years' War period by Charles Grant's fantastic book and ruleset, "The Wargame", I probably would be fighting in this era.
@@markewald6995 I got into 7YW because it just looked so impressive, it was my first venture into 6mm minis as I realised I’d have to buy the armies and paint them to entice opponents… budget and painting ability etc. now I love the tiny men!! Even Warlord epics are huge now lol
Good to hear from you, @@lukefarrell6769, my old foe, lol. I'm glad to know there's another aficionado of warfare in Old Fritz's era. I have Prussian and French armies; what armies do you have?
The mid-range option is, in my opinion, the best approach to Napoleonic wargaming. Mid-range being the divisional to corps level rules approach. It allows for the tactical formations that were a major part of the period: column, line, and square infantry formations. Three distinct combat arms when compared to other eras. This mid-range approach to the period fits with any of the predominant figure scales today, from 6mm to 28mm. The larger, brigade level approach, diminishes the tactical formation aspect for the grand battle experience. In the end, it depends on what the individual is interested in recreating on the wargaming battlefield.
Very good points. I've fond memories of divisional-level games using the old WRG Horse-and- Musket period rules, (still one of the best). These days though I tend towards the "Army-level" approach. Sam Mustapha's "Fast-Play-Grand-Armee" is one of my go-tos even though its been superseded by Blucher. The command system is superb, and often revolves around "How the hell do I STOP the idiot in charge of my cavalry reserve attacking all that unshaken infantry?", as much as getting your troops to do something in the first place.
As you say, it all depends on what you want to recreate/experience, and all can be equally valid and fun!
@@FelixstoweFoamForge I'm moving toward the newer rules General d' Armee 2. As you mention, these rules also add a degree of suspense with the use of ADCs and an initiative roll before each turn. They seem to be more streamlined since their first edition became available.
Another great episode buddy, i was always interested by naps... But, it's intimidating due to the scope..as I've aged, I've found it much more relaxed, plus in 6mm noone can count the buttons lol. Don't forget though your rules are cheaper than you advertised!! You just put dollars, yet really they're about half that price!!
I wanted to do both skirmish & larger ops, so I went for an intermediate scale, 1/72., with figures mounted on magnetic basing for versatility.
For skirmish level rules I use Sharp Practice, but with the visual alteration that I substitute single figures with 2-3 fig bases (eg each line group = 8 X 3 fig bases),
A link to 2 minute clip I posted showing how this approach looks on table ;
ua-cam.com/video/l9EjeJTMjWo/v-deo.htmlsi=q6V-yqYtSYtZZgE5
I will also be using the same figures for larger battles, with a basic Shape Practice force containing roughly enough figures for a General D'Armee / Black Powder brigade.
Nice idea! And it looks very good!
There's a couple or three things missing from your interesting take on this, and that's storage, boardgames and naval games.
Storage is always an issue with wargaming and the scale one chooses has a marked effect upon it. One can fit a 2mm army into a shoebox, a 28mm army would need a cupboard or two.
I started wargaming 1/72nd WW2 but quickly moved onto hex and map games as you could play the whole world or one battlefield on a single table. There are many different boardgames covering this period and they also solve problem number one; a bookcase can hold the whole period.
I find naval games just as fascinating as land based ones. One can fight single ship actions or whole fleets with the same scale. True, there's not as much fun to be had rivet counting with the painting but the whole era is replete with variety in both ship design and actions.
Others may, of course, disagree.