Most underrated channel in the hobby! Always something to learn, even if it's just the small things that make you go "Why didn't I come up with it myself? So simple..." like the poster tack in this video.
Thanks Sebastian. Yes I’m always looking for ways to simplify this hobby by challenging all the stuff we’re just expected to believe. And I love Blu tack!
@@thestateofplay2023 Blu tack can be used for masking as well. I bought a fancy maskig putty from GSW in the past but it feels exactly like magic putty. It works though and does not leave residue - I have not tested magic putty though
I actually have a blu tack vid on my list somewhere as it has sooooo many other uses. Try rolling it and squishing it up your sand paper. It cleans it to almost new.
@@thestateofplay2023 whatt. Like really? :O I'll give this a go later :O I used it to make strange sanding sticks. If I have leftover greenstuff / milliputy I make strange shapes on leftover chopstics. I use them for sculpting or adding small pieces of sand paper via blu tack and sand in stupid places :D
This has got to be one of my favourite channels. The information in this vid might seem like basic stuff but what I would have given to have known this when I started. It's not just that, there were definitely things I never thought of trying and am definitely going to from now on.
Building the model is one of my favorite parts of this hobby. Especially now that I've been doing it for a while and collected a ton of bits so I can build the model the way I want and not the way GW wants
@@thestateofplay2023 Yes but I find even when I almost build my full units according to GW's wishes it is very calming, I turn on a podcast or an audiobook and all of a sudden I have built 40 new units. But now let's say I'm 40+ and happily married to my hobby (meaning single and no kids)
@@henriksorensen82 AH no kids. You win. haha! Having said that I just built a model from the Darkoath box and it took me 6 hours! And that was none stop whilst watching Dune 1 and 2 in the background.
Depending on the plastic and the connection point, nippers can pull on the joint and create a crater even with the greatest care. In this case I reverse the nippers, cutting away from the edge of the part. This way the pulling force is applied to the sprue tree and not the part. There will be a greater nub but no crater.
"Blu-Tac is poster putty" is one of those things I wish I'd known before I was in London on vacation this week, saw blu-tac at Tesco, and grabbed a bunch to take home because I could never find this mythical "blu-tac" in the US.
The best video I’ve come across that explains sub-assemblies. I always wondered how people get plastic glue to adhere (peel off all the paint at the join?!) and how they fill gaps in fully-painted-then-assembled models
Wish I would have found this video sooner! I've learned a lot of hard lessons in a short period on my first set of minis and I haven't even primed them yet. The temporary tacking on, priming, and then painting separately was an idea I was playing with but did not know if I was off base or not - so this gave me a good confidence boost in my understanding moving forward.
Thank you for posting this! I just bought my first game with miniatures with more interest in playing it than painting anything. The idea that I have to assemble them at all… That's something new for sure but I'm really happy I watched this video because my thought was I'll glue them now and if I decide I want to play around painting them in a year or so? That's for later. It'd never have occurred to me that I should consider the models one by one and perhaps finish them in stages.
I'm with you on despising the assembly of models. Most of my mini painting has been for board games where the sculpts aren't always the best but there's no assembly required and I can just enjoy painting them up and bringing life to the game. But I recently started buying models for a skirmish wargame (Moonstone). They're beautiful but the resin can be stubbornly resistant to glue and some of the bits are extremely fragile. It's added a lot of stress and frustration to something that I do in order to relax and I'm seriously considering dropping it altogether and just focusing on board games again.
@@thestateofplay2023 Sick! 🥳 Been thinking about getting into 3D-Printing for a while. But wasn't able to come up with a convincing, while space-saving setup so far. Also not to sure how to "handle" the (resin-) fumes 🤔
Yeah, the exact problem I had/have. Tbh honest, I’m not 100% sure printing is for me. I love the idea of it, but all the hoops you jump through just don’t seem worth it. And it’s not that much cheaper
@@thestateofplay2023 I feel ya :/ A friend of mine is praising it above all... like he found the recipe to turn air into gold or water into wine. But the more I look into it, the more I'm putting it in the "nice to have, but not necessary" category.
I've been a resin 3d printer and modeler for a few years and IMHO 3d printing is about the same as woodworking. You can assemble 3 boards of whatever and calling it a table but the quality and details will be lacking compared to commercial products. You can also print models you have minutely sliced and modified or digitally kitbashed that are not available anywhere else and make them your own. People often minimize the skill learning needed to properly slice and support a model or the not so pleasant post processing that implies mask and gloves wearing and room ventilation. The good news is you can go the IKEA way and order from printing services that have already built up a process around a catalog of models. Custom printing on the other hand is way more expensive because of the manual work implied just for one customer.
Maybe somene can use that: 00:00 - Beginning 00:21 - Intro 01:06 - Part Removal 02:26 - Clippers 05:47 - Clean Up 07:50 - Assembly 09:53 - Subassembly 13:54 - Summary 14:36 - Website - tips, tricks, hobby product recommendations or mini paintintg books And later on info about Patreon ;)
Are you saying you want the chapters back? 😭 oh man, I’m trying to reduce the workload. And honestly chapters made no difference to any UA-cam stats at all. Just added an extra hour of checking timestamps before go live. 🤣🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 I saved you time 😂 you can just copy-paste Coz any way I’m watching… and maybe it’s only me who cares about chapters 😂 but here I’m at your service
I came home from work one day, and my youngest asked if I would paint his Tyrannid Trygon he and his brother had assembled. Big bug, lots of really pointy spikes on the six arms. I must have stabbed myself half a dozen times on that thing, sometimes hard enough to draw blood. Definitely a candidate for painting sub-assemblies!
50% of models thesedays have so much extra baggage on them that they need sub assemblies. 😭 but then my bank account probably needs sub assembly too to balance the mini purchases.
The car wash through which I drive always pressure washes the underside of my car. Because you started it! By the way your satirical similes are superb.
7:25 mould lines in tricky places can also be dissolved by using plastic cement. You need to be careful not to destroy details, and it will never be perfect, but It can be better than just leaving it as is
@@thestateofplay2023 yeah, it depends on how visible it will be. Usually I really have to fight the urge to clean every last bit for absolutely no reason, so slapping a bit of cement on the line can help me to move on :p
🤣🤣 I’m kinda like that. Gets really annoying though when you clean to perfection only to realise the part you just cleaned is completely hidden anyway. 😳
Great video again. I like how you simplify the hobby, especially for beginners. Sprues these days sure are more crowed in parts then way back in 2nd and 3rd edition of 40K. Oh and bad clippers can send that small part flying into the black hole underneath the desk where all parts disappear somewhere with the socks from the washing machine/dryer... O_o
I've read that PVA is weak enough to be used the way you use blu tak for temporary assembly to then paint; I've only been able to find it done for plastic models, got a resin model I'm wanting to paint with lots of intricate hard to reach details so want to paint before final assembly, I don't know if PVA will work for resin though, I kind of think it'll be too strong with resin compared to plastic. if anyone with first hand experience on using PVA for this purpose has any advice, it'd be much appreciated
This came at the right time! I’m just starting to assemble a large amount of halberdiers for an empire army and the first unit has so many arms crossed over bodies. I will eagerly be trying the bluetack method!
Push fit kits are a pain, they appear to be a decent idea of glue free (or nearly free) assembly, hindered by tolerances that are too tight. I think I got it from Marco Frisoni, but picked up a useful tip for push fit kits. The worst case is the glue setting as you push it together, because there's too much friction. Then you're left with huge horrible gaps where it doesn't meet. Reduce the friction by either sanding one side of the "male" post, or what has worked better for me. If the socket is accessible, like when it's on the inside of a torso piece. Take your snips, and at a 45 degree angle, slip off about 1/3 of the socket. With a dab of Tamiya cement in the socket, it will hold tight, but slide together in a tight fit much easier. If you can't snip the socket. Another option you can have with round sockets. Just take your hobby drill and oversize them ever so slightly. Just enough that they will dry fit, and come lose with a little pull. Again, a dab of cement in the socket will hold tight once you want a permanent assembly. I think one of the reasons I have been drifting towards 3d printed models, apart from the fact that so many are amazeballs, is the much reduced or non existent sub assembly. Thank you once again.
Blu tack, or "kludd" as we call it in Sweden for some reason, is great for holding stuff together before priming. But superglue is even greater, especially for the weapon arms and heads. Just stick one part of the arm to the model with a tiny bit of glue and then snap it off when you wanna paint it and you still have a big connection for plastic cement on the other arm, and can easily get the other one back with a tiny scrape if you dont want more superglue there. Works much better in my experience since the blu tack tends to harden and leave ugly marks from the primer or sometimes lump up and become next to impossible to remove.
Awesome name for blue tak! There shouldn’t be any blu tack mark on the primer though as you hide it in the joins. And removing it is easier with some other blu tack as long as the new stuff is warm. Sadly I’m allergic to superglue….🥲
@@thestateofplay2023 I think it might be my autistic urge make sure the piece is 100% stuck to the kludd that makes me use too much and that then causes my issues. Been trying to use less but the brain does not accept that 😂 Though more hidden joins, like backpacks, I use blu tack for since nothing gets there anyway. Think I'll give those tiny lumps you used a go next time :)
@@thestateofplay2023 haha 🤣 not even close Was busy, but I’m a grown man, I can afford to watch videos on UA-cam whenever I want 😂😂😂 (oh well, it was not a bathroom, but a kitchen and dinner ;) )
@@thestateofplay2023 I love your channel. I don’t have extra cash for Patreon, but I know comments are mildly helpful for the algorithm. So a vote of confidence from commander shepherd, is the best I can do to help your channel grow.
If you run out of blu-tak, some well chewed bubble gum may work as a substitute. At least until it dries. Especially good if you store models on the bottom side of a desk or bus seat.
@@thestateofplay2023 I have some of the blue tack. Stuff is does the job but if you ever find the Elmer's Orange steal it. Five years later mine is as plyable as day one. Wonder if the blue stuff just needs more oil.
The monument mold line cleaner is better than the citadel 1x10,000 times and it actually has kind of an edge. It's not going to cut you kind of an edge but it has an edge. As far as filling holes.... Sprue goo, for even bigger holes you can get putty. I feel like filling holes has the exact same problem as sanding which is if it's in a really inconvenient place you can damage details or screw up the look somehow.
Honestly, the frustration in minis sometimes isn’t worth it. You’d be better off collecting fine whiskey. At least that way you can drown any annoyances. 🤣
Can you recommend the little flexible sanding stocks you use? I tried buying some from Amazon and they were way too coarse, leaving scratches on plastic instead of sanding (tested on a sprue)
It's really hard to find nail polish files above 100/240 grit here in UK. You can search for "1500 grit sponge" or sanding sticks and you can find what you need. I think.
I believe nail files of higher grit are called “gentle buffers” or buffer. That’s the pink one you see in my video. There should definitely be something of higher grit or all the women in your area would have horribly scraped nails. 😜🤣.
I’ve never tried gundam to be honest. I’ve always been more partially to sci di and fantasy monsters rather than big robots. Same reason I avoid Tau, Eldar and Necrons.
@@thestateofplay2023 I understand. If you change your mind though there are some very reasonably priced High Grade models that are very fun to assemble.
Yes!! Cutting away can be very dangerous. I cut my pinky to the bone doing that. It slipped and cut my pinky on the hand holding it. Cutting away is no good if you are holding something tiny.
Captain Contrarian, to the rescue! I used to live on Padre Island in Texas. A fool who does not wash the underside of their car, soon has no car with which to neglect washing the corrosive salt off of. My contrarian work is done here. No need to thank me, ma'am. Proving you wrong is all the thanks I need! {*flys away like a fuckin' mega chad*} Joking aside, here is a tip for mold line remove on convoluted surfaces that proves works well and is a huge time saver (which also works pretty good for smooth surfaces, but I prefer scrapping for that). That Tamiya Super thin is more than just a glue, as it is a solvent. You can scrape the surface a bit, just to gets the largest mold lines off. Then take the tamiya super thin brush with a bit of the solvent and run the side of that brush up and down the surface where that mold line is. Whatever is left of the mold line will be softened enough to obscure the fact a mold line was there to begin with. This one is a bit of art though, and requires be able to modify this technique to match the surface you are removing mold lines from. Highly recommend using a couple crappy models to practice with the get used to it. And this only works on styrene models, naturally, because tamiya super thin is styrene solvent.
No salt round here thank god! Well, unless on fish and chips! 🤣 Yes on Tamiya, I tend to actually use the brush and solvent to “paint/sculpt” the seams and mold lines. But that may have been a little too far gone for the video. 😜👍🏼
@@thestateofplay2023 Haha. Too far gone? Dude, you're already most of the way there in a video about being hyper detailed about prepping dollies to paint. ;)
After building Gundam models for the past year or so, i feel a bit spoiled from how they engineer the sprue's vs GW's. Granted i own 4 2k armies (120gaunt horde, DG, BloodAngels, Necrons) so ive seen my share of GW plastic.
I don't mind assembly...well the actual assembly...cleaning up parts, removing mold lines. That is what I hate! Absolutely hate hate hate hate hate hate hate hate that!
dont use cements on resin plastic, the cement relies on melting the plastic with chemicals so both objects combine, resin plastic is very chemical resistant, so the cement is useless.
Where has this myth come from that cutting away from you is safer and that's what you're taught? I was always taught to cut towards you as you have much more control over the blade
Most underrated channel in the hobby! Always something to learn, even if it's just the small things that make you go "Why didn't I come up with it myself? So simple..." like the poster tack in this video.
Thanks Sebastian. Yes I’m always looking for ways to simplify this hobby by challenging all the stuff we’re just expected to believe. And I love Blu tack!
@@thestateofplay2023 Blu tack can be used for masking as well. I bought a fancy maskig putty from GSW in the past but it feels exactly like magic putty. It works though and does not leave residue - I have not tested magic putty though
I actually have a blu tack vid on my list somewhere as it has sooooo many other uses. Try rolling it and squishing it up your sand paper. It cleans it to almost new.
@@thestateofplay2023 whatt. Like really? :O I'll give this a go later :O I used it to make strange sanding sticks. If I have leftover greenstuff / milliputy I make strange shapes on leftover chopstics. I use them for sculpting or adding small pieces of sand paper via blu tack and sand in stupid places :D
This has got to be one of my favourite channels. The information in this vid might seem like basic stuff but what I would have given to have known this when I started. It's not just that, there were definitely things I never thought of trying and am definitely going to from now on.
Building the model is one of my favorite parts of this hobby. Especially now that I've been doing it for a while and collected a ton of bits so I can build the model the way I want and not the way GW wants
Ah technically that’s kitbashing which is far more fun than spending days building a GW box. 👍🏼 and days. And days. And…..🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 Yes but I find even when I almost build my full units according to GW's wishes it is very calming, I turn on a podcast or an audiobook and all of a sudden I have built 40 new units. But now let's say I'm 40+ and happily married to my hobby (meaning single and no kids)
@@henriksorensen82 AH no kids. You win. haha! Having said that I just built a model from the Darkoath box and it took me 6 hours! And that was none stop whilst watching Dune 1 and 2 in the background.
Depending on the plastic and the connection point, nippers can pull on the joint and create a crater even with the greatest care. In this case I reverse the nippers, cutting away from the edge of the part. This way the pulling force is applied to the sprue tree and not the part. There will be a greater nub but no crater.
I’ve now discovered it only happens with double bladed clippers. I can’t replicate it with single blade ones. Go figure! 🤷🏼♂️
"Blu-Tac is poster putty" is one of those things I wish I'd known before I was in London on vacation this week, saw blu-tac at Tesco, and grabbed a bunch to take home because I could never find this mythical "blu-tac" in the US.
I thought they had it in the US?
Blu tack is a product name and has become an object in large parts of the world for all similar products
You have some of the best videos in this genre. Keep on my brother!
Ah, I f only another 80,000 people thought that. I’d get one of those shiny a UA-cam wall plaques. 🤣
Thanks so much for this. I was wondering how to prime without hindering the cementing process. Blu tak baby!
Blu tack 4 eva!!!
The best video I’ve come across that explains sub-assemblies. I always wondered how people get plastic glue to adhere (peel off all the paint at the join?!) and how they fill gaps in fully-painted-then-assembled models
Glad it helped mate. Yeah poster tack is the hobbies best kept secret!! 😜👍🏼
I really enjoy your videos and their content....so much so that I think I have watched all your videos a few times over. Keep going, you are great!
Wow, you probably see my face more than my family!! 😜
Wish I would have found this video sooner! I've learned a lot of hard lessons in a short period on my first set of minis and I haven't even primed them yet. The temporary tacking on, priming, and then painting separately was an idea I was playing with but did not know if I was off base or not - so this gave me a good confidence boost in my understanding moving forward.
The best way to assemble is generally to do what works best for you. Too many creators provide solutions but not options. 👍🏼 glad I could help!
Cracking video Will, the blue tac tip is amazing, can't believe it never occurred to me before
😜I couldn’t live without blu-tacking gun arms that’s go across a body. 👍🏼
Thank you for posting this! I just bought my first game with miniatures with more interest in playing it than painting anything. The idea that I have to assemble them at all… That's something new for sure but I'm really happy I watched this video because my thought was I'll glue them now and if I decide I want to play around painting them in a year or so? That's for later. It'd never have occurred to me that I should consider the models one by one and perhaps finish them in stages.
Honestly it’s usually only an issue with big, clunky, complex models. 👍🏼
Great. Subscribed now. 😊
Awesome! Thank you!
I'm with you on despising the assembly of models. Most of my mini painting has been for board games where the sculpts aren't always the best but there's no assembly required and I can just enjoy painting them up and bringing life to the game. But I recently started buying models for a skirmish wargame (Moonstone). They're beautiful but the resin can be stubbornly resistant to glue and some of the bits are extremely fragile. It's added a lot of stress and frustration to something that I do in order to relax and I'm seriously considering dropping it altogether and just focusing on board games again.
My tip. Bounce between the two like I do. When frustrated by one, swap to other. Then back and forth. Keeps you sane!
@@thestateofplay2023 FYI, I've taken your advice and it definitely helps. Many thanks!
Was waiting for this one
Im on it but I have another vid I promised to make first. About 3D printing…
@@thestateofplay2023 Sick! 🥳
Been thinking about getting into 3D-Printing for a while. But wasn't able to come up with a convincing, while space-saving setup so far. Also not to sure how to "handle" the (resin-) fumes 🤔
Yeah, the exact problem I had/have. Tbh honest, I’m not 100% sure printing is for me. I love the idea of it, but all the hoops you jump through just don’t seem worth it. And it’s not that much cheaper
@@thestateofplay2023 I feel ya :/
A friend of mine is praising it above all... like he found the recipe to turn air into gold or water into wine. But the more I look into it, the more I'm putting it in the "nice to have, but not necessary" category.
I've been a resin 3d printer and modeler for a few years and IMHO 3d printing is about the same as woodworking. You can assemble 3 boards of whatever and calling it a table but the quality and details will be lacking compared to commercial products. You can also print models you have minutely sliced and modified or digitally kitbashed that are not available anywhere else and make them your own. People often minimize the skill learning needed to properly slice and support a model or the not so pleasant post processing that implies mask and gloves wearing and room ventilation. The good news is you can go the IKEA way and order from printing services that have already built up a process around a catalog of models. Custom printing on the other hand is way more expensive because of the manual work implied just for one customer.
Maybe somene can use that:
00:00 - Beginning
00:21 - Intro
01:06 - Part Removal
02:26 - Clippers
05:47 - Clean Up
07:50 - Assembly
09:53 - Subassembly
13:54 - Summary
14:36 - Website - tips, tricks, hobby product recommendations or mini paintintg books
And later on info about Patreon ;)
Are you saying you want the chapters back? 😭 oh man, I’m trying to reduce the workload. And honestly chapters made no difference to any UA-cam stats at all. Just added an extra hour of checking timestamps before go live. 🤣🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 I saved you time 😂 you can just copy-paste
Coz any way I’m watching… and maybe it’s only me who cares about chapters 😂 but here I’m at your service
Can i ask what the super sharp clippers (with the orange handles) you used were? I'm always on the hunt for good clippers and they look perfect.
They’re the DSPIAE side cutters. Great nippers!!
@thestateofplay2023 Awesome thank you. I've seen a couple of the DSPIAE ones out there and they look so good.
Another great educational video. Looking forward to a breakdown of priming as well.
On it. Might have to do a 3D printing video before though as I promised elegoo.
I came home from work one day, and my youngest asked if I would paint his Tyrannid Trygon he and his brother had assembled. Big bug, lots of really pointy spikes on the six arms. I must have stabbed myself half a dozen times on that thing, sometimes hard enough to draw blood. Definitely a candidate for painting sub-assemblies!
50% of models thesedays have so much extra baggage on them that they need sub assemblies. 😭 but then my bank account probably needs sub assembly too to balance the mini purchases.
The car wash through which I drive always pressure washes the underside of my car. Because you started it!
By the way your satirical similes are superb.
🤣🤣🤣 well don’t you have a posh car wash near you. I have a bucket. Occasionally also a sponge.
The citadel mould line remover is quite good for large, curved surfaces that have joints in them. I found it useful for tyranid tails.
Shame it’s not universal enough for small right spots too
7:25 mould lines in tricky places can also be dissolved by using plastic cement. You need to be careful not to destroy details, and it will never be perfect, but It can be better than just leaving it as is
That’s what I usually do but just sometimes I honestly can’t be bothered. 🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 yeah, it depends on how visible it will be.
Usually I really have to fight the urge to clean every last bit for absolutely no reason, so slapping a bit of cement on the line can help me to move on :p
🤣🤣 I’m kinda like that. Gets really annoying though when you clean to perfection only to realise the part you just cleaned is completely hidden anyway. 😳
Great video again. I like how you simplify the hobby, especially for beginners. Sprues these days sure are more crowed in parts then way back in 2nd and 3rd edition of 40K. Oh and bad clippers can send that small part flying into the black hole underneath the desk where all parts disappear somewhere with the socks from the washing machine/dryer... O_o
Totally, I literally just had to build a Kroot variation I hadn’t planned because one tiny part skipped off the desk and promptly disappeared!
I've read that PVA is weak enough to be used the way you use blu tak for temporary assembly to then paint; I've only been able to find it done for plastic models, got a resin model I'm wanting to paint with lots of intricate hard to reach details so want to paint before final assembly, I don't know if PVA will work for resin though, I kind of think it'll be too strong with resin compared to plastic. if anyone with first hand experience on using PVA for this purpose has any advice, it'd be much appreciated
It’ll work with resin. Problem with pva is it take too long to dry so you’ll need to clamp everything in place perfectly so it won’t move.
@@thestateofplay2023 Cheers, Ill bear that in mind then
This came at the right time! I’m just starting to assemble a large amount of halberdiers for an empire army and the first unit has so many arms crossed over bodies. I will eagerly be trying the bluetack method!
Blu Tack, our hobby hero!!
Always such a nice chill vibe with you and it's appreciated. Agree with the mental math you sometimes have to do for GW sprues.
🤣 if anyone told me I’d need mental math for Warhammer I may have chose gardening as my hobby instead. Thanks mate!
Omg buttered by Wolverine! And tailored wetsuit. Brilliant! Great vid yet again. Thanks Will!
A pleasure to have you as always Brenden!
Another great vid. Thanks. I paint like this. Sub assembly and blu tack for lighting volumes.
Excellent! I’m glad I’m not the only one.
Blue tac is king.
Belisarius Cawl was nightmarish enough without micro digitalis gymnastic contortionism.
Superb video my friend!
Oh man you painted Cawl! Assembled? Kudos my friend!!
Push fit kits are a pain, they appear to be a decent idea of glue free (or nearly free) assembly, hindered by tolerances that are too tight. I think I got it from Marco Frisoni, but picked up a useful tip for push fit kits. The worst case is the glue setting as you push it together, because there's too much friction. Then you're left with huge horrible gaps where it doesn't meet.
Reduce the friction by either sanding one side of the "male" post, or what has worked better for me. If the socket is accessible, like when it's on the inside of a torso piece. Take your snips, and at a 45 degree angle, slip off about 1/3 of the socket. With a dab of Tamiya cement in the socket, it will hold tight, but slide together in a tight fit much easier.
If you can't snip the socket. Another option you can have with round sockets. Just take your hobby drill and oversize them ever so slightly. Just enough that they will dry fit, and come lose with a little pull. Again, a dab of cement in the socket will hold tight once you want a permanent assembly.
I think one of the reasons I have been drifting towards 3d printed models, apart from the fact that so many are amazeballs, is the much reduced or non existent sub assembly.
Thank you once again.
Yes I tend to agree. I just snip off most of the peg now and glue if I don’t want any sub assembly.
OK we really need a video of the tools YOU use. Some of your stuff I would love to know what it is! :)
Most of it is in my previous video. This video is #2. You need video #1. 👍🏼
Absolutely love this channel
Thank you indeed!
Blu tack, or "kludd" as we call it in Sweden for some reason, is great for holding stuff together before priming. But superglue is even greater, especially for the weapon arms and heads. Just stick one part of the arm to the model with a tiny bit of glue and then snap it off when you wanna paint it and you still have a big connection for plastic cement on the other arm, and can easily get the other one back with a tiny scrape if you dont want more superglue there. Works much better in my experience since the blu tack tends to harden and leave ugly marks from the primer or sometimes lump up and become next to impossible to remove.
Awesome name for blue tak! There shouldn’t be any blu tack mark on the primer though as you hide it in the joins. And removing it is easier with some other blu tack as long as the new stuff is warm. Sadly I’m allergic to superglue….🥲
@@thestateofplay2023 I think it might be my autistic urge make sure the piece is 100% stuck to the kludd that makes me use too much and that then causes my issues. Been trying to use less but the brain does not accept that 😂
Though more hidden joins, like backpacks, I use blu tack for since nothing gets there anyway. Think I'll give those tiny lumps you used a go next time :)
Try with multiple teeny tiny bits.
Hell yeah! One more great video to watch!
It's a pity that I have to wait until tomorrow to watch it...
oh who am I kidding... watched it today
Trip to bathroom with phone screen? No, wait that came out wrong. Not like that. Nevermind….
@@thestateofplay2023 haha 🤣 not even close
Was busy, but I’m a grown man, I can afford to watch videos on UA-cam whenever I want 😂😂😂 (oh well, it was not a bathroom, but a kitchen and dinner ;) )
I’m commander Shepherd, and this is my favorite UA-cam channel on the citadel.
I don’t think that’ll ever get old!! 🤣🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 I love your channel. I don’t have extra cash for Patreon, but I know comments are mildly helpful for the algorithm. So a vote of confidence from commander shepherd, is the best I can do to help your channel grow.
And it’s totally appreciated mate!
If you run out of blu-tak, some well chewed bubble gum may work as a substitute. At least until it dries. Especially good if you store models on the bottom side of a desk or bus seat.
🤣🤣🤣 yeah but when hard it’ll worse to remove than actual glue!! You’ve seen those guys in the street scraping gum of the pavement, right?
@@thestateofplay2023 Indeed! I should have also pointed out that method is illegal in Singapore, so be careful out there.
🤣🤣🤣
What is the difference between these and wire snips? I have some miniature wire snips which look very similar to the clippers you have shown!
Quality mostly .Wire snips only need to cut soft wire. The blades on those will be blunt in a week on hard plastic minis.
Can someone recommend a replacement for the original orange putty from Elmer's? That stuff works great be doesn't seem to be made anymore.
Can’t help I’m afraid. Does look like that stuff Redgrass games sell for their handles though…
@@thestateofplay2023 I have some of the blue tack. Stuff is does the job but if you ever find the Elmer's Orange steal it. Five years later mine is as plyable as day one. Wonder if the blue stuff just needs more oil.
I actually use the white stuff as it’s a little harder than the blue.
@@thestateofplay2023 some of them just do not like to peel off when finished doing it's job. Wonder if silly putty would work for subassembly.
Not sure if silly putty is strong enough. Run a hair dryer over the harder tack.
The monument mold line cleaner is better than the citadel 1x10,000 times and it actually has kind of an edge. It's not going to cut you kind of an edge but it has an edge.
As far as filling holes.... Sprue goo, for even bigger holes you can get putty. I feel like filling holes has the exact same problem as sanding which is if it's in a really inconvenient place you can damage details or screw up the look somehow.
Ah my previous video on tools goes into these details.👍🏼
Oh, here is the funny English guy again!
If I ever get back to minis, I'll have to rewatch it again
Honestly, the frustration in minis sometimes isn’t worth it. You’d be better off collecting fine whiskey. At least that way you can drown any annoyances. 🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 whiskey is for the cool people, not the nerds tho
Put ice in it. That’ll make it less cool and more nerd friendly. 😇
Can you recommend the little flexible sanding stocks you use? I tried buying some from Amazon and they were way too coarse, leaving scratches on plastic instead of sanding (tested on a sprue)
You need 1000 grit or higher. I use 1200/1500 stuff and fingernail files to smooth everything. My previous video covers this. 👍🏼
It's really hard to find nail polish files above 100/240 grit here in UK.
You can search for "1500 grit sponge" or sanding sticks and you can find what you need. I think.
I believe nail files of higher grit are called “gentle buffers” or buffer. That’s the pink one you see in my video. There should definitely be something of higher grit or all the women in your area would have horribly scraped nails. 😜🤣.
I'd love to see you assemble, paint and do weathering on a Gundam model using these techniques. I get that may not be your cup of tea though.
I’ve never tried gundam to be honest. I’ve always been more partially to sci di and fantasy monsters rather than big robots. Same reason I avoid Tau, Eldar and Necrons.
@@thestateofplay2023 I understand. If you change your mind though there are some very reasonably priced High Grade models that are very fun to assemble.
What's your most recommended clippers?
Right now? The DSPIAE clippers. I wish I’d had them years ago but they didn’t exist
Yes!! Cutting away can be very dangerous. I cut my pinky to the bone doing that. It slipped and cut my pinky on the hand holding it. Cutting away is no good if you are holding something tiny.
I know right. But so many people just parrot the same terrible advice. It’s like no one ever thought, “hey wait a minute - that doesn’t work!”. 🤣
Captain Contrarian, to the rescue!
I used to live on Padre Island in Texas.
A fool who does not wash the underside of their car, soon has no car with which to neglect washing the corrosive salt off of.
My contrarian work is done here. No need to thank me, ma'am. Proving you wrong is all the thanks I need!
{*flys away like a fuckin' mega chad*}
Joking aside, here is a tip for mold line remove on convoluted surfaces that proves works well and is a huge time saver (which also works pretty good for smooth surfaces, but I prefer scrapping for that).
That Tamiya Super thin is more than just a glue, as it is a solvent. You can scrape the surface a bit, just to gets the largest mold lines off. Then take the tamiya super thin brush with a bit of the solvent and run the side of that brush up and down the surface where that mold line is. Whatever is left of the mold line will be softened enough to obscure the fact a mold line was there to begin with.
This one is a bit of art though, and requires be able to modify this technique to match the surface you are removing mold lines from. Highly recommend using a couple crappy models to practice with the get used to it. And this only works on styrene models, naturally, because tamiya super thin is styrene solvent.
No salt round here thank god! Well, unless on fish and chips! 🤣
Yes on Tamiya, I tend to actually use the brush and solvent to “paint/sculpt” the seams and mold lines. But that may have been a little too far gone for the video. 😜👍🏼
@@thestateofplay2023 Haha. Too far gone? Dude, you're already most of the way there in a video about being hyper detailed about prepping dollies to paint. ;)
Very good point!
I use nail scissors ever since and there is no reason to change that!
If it works. It works!!
I spray primer / base coat while models are still on the sprue … so much easier to hold and gets the nooks & crannies… then zenithal once glued
But don’t you end up coating the glue joins and having to clean up after?
@@thestateofplay2023 never really been a prob, though I use super glue rather than cement … mild scrape if at all needed to expose plastic 👍
If you live with salty roads, you should wash under your car
I live on rainy roads half the year and dry roads the rest. I can’t remember the last time I saw snow. Sadly.
i live in the salt belt, washing underside of car is essential
Yeah, I probably should have thought about that one a bit better….😜👍🏼
After building Gundam models for the past year or so, i feel a bit spoiled from how they engineer the sprue's vs GW's. Granted i own 4 2k armies (120gaunt horde, DG, BloodAngels, Necrons) so ive seen my share of GW plastic.
I’m not sure GW ‘engineer’ the sprues. I’m leaning more towards them throwing parts in the air and where they land becomes the sprue. 🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 haha, so true on some.
Today is a State of Play video day?
Yes they go up when done. I don’t subscribe to the UA-cam schedule malarkey. 🤣 I’m sure that’s a road to ultimate burnout. 👍🏼
This is a sane and sensible approach, which is kinda your jam. Thanks for the videos, inspiration, and distraction from the insanity of the world 😎
"Try" not to use the tip of your snips. They work better longer.
I'm pretty sure that new kits are made to destroy snips.😅
Weirdly a new kroot trail finder I just got seems to have to softest plastic and ve ever seen. I can remove mold line with my finger nail. 🤷🏼♂️
Sanding after assembly!? Heathens!!
🤣🤣🤣
Wash the underside of your car, especially if you live somewhere that uses salt on the road or near salt water.
That’s probably why I don’t. No salt round my way. 👍🏼
I don't mind assembly...well the actual assembly...cleaning up parts, removing mold lines. That is what I hate! Absolutely hate hate hate hate hate hate hate hate that!
I wholeheartedly heartedly agree!
@thestateofplay2023
Oh yeah and again your channel is awesome!
Mountain of opportunity.
Cutting away from yourself is advice for children, as any woodcutter will tell you.
Yes totally!
dont use cements on resin plastic, the cement relies on melting the plastic with chemicals so both objects combine, resin plastic is very chemical resistant, so the cement is useless.
Absolutely correct! I think i put this info in my previous video on tools.
Where has this myth come from that cutting away from you is safer and that's what you're taught? I was always taught to cut towards you as you have much more control over the blade
Primary school. If your primary school taught you to cut towards yourself I imagine the nurses room had a revolving door. 🤣🤣