Mom, these mechanics in the UK have never heard of a torque wrench, they all break the threads with an air gun that's why I chose to learn to do it myself and I try to do it whenever I'm broke. this is what I learned in 10 years in the UK, as these mechanics are just handy mans
Very helpful video. No doubt you would prefer everyone to use independent garages like yourselves but like yourselves, there are many competent DIY mechanics who just need to see how something is meant to be done to do the job right without taking a million things off. Great video.
Just did this swap on our ‘12 Tiguan, super helpful. Thanks for making this. A lift would have made the job easier, but even without one I was able to change it out in under an hour.
I did that 'surgery' the other day on a VW Tiguan 4 wheel drive 2015 model. Very easy if you got the right tools! Used Wurth PTFE spray which made the process easier/quicker :-) Thanks a lott Kevin!
Be Geeeeeenntle with the 16 mm bolt guys.... the subframe is aluminium, the thread is f***** fragile ! (the T-torque is 65nm for the 16mm, 80nm for the 18)
Just done this on passat b7 2014 and on my drive using axle stands i used a crowbar and a load of wd40 get it off very simple to was expecting it to be much harder also just poped straight back on if you can change a wheel you can do this thanks for the video
This is excellent, thanks very much, please keep sharing. Just ignore that complete muppet. Also I noticed your R1 video that is fantastic (I'm an ex ZX6r owner and track-day racer)
Great job - only one comment: Copper paste and copper grease are only for metal use as they have anti-rust and anti-seize properties. They can damage rubber material. Spray a window cleaner instead; it works great as a lubricant for such jobs.
No need, that is not how shit works in the uk. All bolts are torqued to 'tight as fuck'. As for the copper grease... I have no defence. Thats bad. Red rubber grease only
Stretch bolts (as well as locknuts) should always be replaced not reused (but if absolutely no choice use thread-lock); full weight should be on wheels in normal ground load position before final tightening; subframe locating pins (e.g T10096) should be used (and then re-alignment should not be necessary)? Or that bush can be pulled and replaced with the housing in position i.e. so no re-alignment needed?
Thought this was gonna be easy, 2 of the 3 bolts came out easy, the 3rd one (16mm) came out about one cm and is now completely seized wont go back or come out and I feel that its gonna snap, so I bit the bullet and bought an impact wrench, so lets see if that works, otherwise I might have to drop the subframe if that bolt snaps to replace that one bracket.
@@NathansLife if you have access to a blow torch, get some heat on the bolt. Once it's hot, work the bolt in and out, screw out a bit, then back in a bit until you work it all the way out. It will probably bring the thread out with it unfortunately. If so, you should be able to use a helicoil to repair the thread without subframe removal. This problem is relatively common.
Gotta say all three bolt are torque to yield bolts and definitely needs to be replaced and torqued to spec, I thought only Americans don’t use torque wrenches lol, but it seems I am wrong.
Just had mine replaced by a local independant on a octy mk2 purchased the same bushes inc with the mounts the mech said he had a right mare getting them off and had to cut them with a angle grinder to get em off ? got them replaced on the advice when getting my steering realigned guy said they were worn
dopiaza2006 you are quite right, it is important essential to replace all torque to yeild bolts and this I should have mentioned. However, this was a job I did for somebody else that wanted to cut corners at every turn, so I was just following orders lol. I have reused these bolts on many occasions though and haven't experienced a problem so far. And buzzing them up, may as well, they have already been stretched beyond their yeild point, so applying the correct torque would be impossible.
Sorry, was just being an arse!... I do it all the time and have never had one come loose or snap. I'm looking to do this job soon on my Mk5 Golf but want to go with the uprated TT non voided bushes. I understand the bush housings are different though so will need to press out/in the new bushes.
Kevin Coyne sorry mean as in driving say if I’m sitting at light go to drive I can hear a clunk/bang noise.. recently changed tie rod.. anti roll bushings all look prefect no play in bar
Mubzy I would say it's more likely to cause vague steering and premature tyre wear. Vibration in steering more likely to be wheel balancing not correct, a buckled wheel or warped brake discs if it happens when braking
changed the front wishbones of my 2.0 tdi golf yesterday first one easy 2nd one for some strange reason the bolt snapped first time it had been took of too was moving the bolt back and forward and spraying wd40 on it and it snapped right at the head end aint a clue why it was so tight like it one of the 3 long bolts which hold the main bush in so just driving on 2 bolts till i get this fixed only about 5 mm of the bolt showing and the bolts are around 3, somethink inchs long what is the best way to go i was thinking of drilling the bolt then put a slighter longest bolt through and the a washed a nut of other side of steel plate as there is room to do this any advice would be great
kr899 put loads of lube on the bushing and the arm. eat some spinach then push and wiggle with all your might! it will go on! do not waste your Sunday afternoon taking the arm off ;-)
Mate, you've used the wrong grease - copper grease eats rubber. Should have used silicone or red rubber grease for lubrication. You'll be doing that job again soon.
that bushing will go back again . the vacuum pump seal is leaking oil bad gasket or cv axle busted grease on it. this cars suspension is absolutely shit
Incorrect technique, you're causing unnecessary strain onto the control arm's bolt attachments to the mainframe of the car. Not to mention that using a hammer/prying tool to remove the bad bushings underneath a car that is suspended in the air is completely IRRESPONSIBLE and unnecessarily DANGEROUS.
Instead of hammering the front cradle bushing out of the control arm, he could've removed it the proper way. This causes wear on the control arm and inevitably leads to replacing it which is costly.
This was all done underneath a car that was suspended. It wasn't safe to be prying/hammering away at the car nor the car's parts in order to pry/remove the cradle bushing.... bottom line the procedure shown here works, but there are easier and safer ways to do it as well.
I also fail to see how this would cause damage or is dangerous. he is prying only on the end of the control arm on the front/rear axis. What control arm wear? Also, I don't see how doing so would push the car off the lift LOL
Mom, these mechanics in the UK have never heard of a torque wrench, they all break the threads with an air gun
that's why I chose to learn to do it myself and I try to do it whenever I'm broke. this is what I learned in 10 years in the UK, as these mechanics are just handy mans
Well done for learning about torque wrenches, now perhaps you could learn how to construct a sentence that makes sense. Mug.
TORQUE SPECS
18mm Bolt = 70nm then 90 degree turn
16mm Bolts = 50nm then 90 degree turn
Very helpful video. No doubt you would prefer everyone to use independent garages like yourselves but like yourselves, there are many competent DIY mechanics who just need to see how something is meant to be done to do the job right without taking a million things off.
Great video.
No worries, just use red rubber grease instead of what you see me using in the video 👍
@@gsoup7850
Just bought a pair, they both look identical and have solid rubber( no holes, will this be a problem?
Just did this swap on our ‘12 Tiguan, super helpful. Thanks for making this. A lift would have made the job easier, but even without one I was able to change it out in under an hour.
Thats good to hear ,I have 2 to replace .
easy peasy. anyone who is replacing those every year, get yourself Meyle HD version, had them for 3 years, still going strong
Got Meyle HD with bolts for $85 here in the US. Just put them on. Feels pretty tight. Less clunky over uneven surfaces.
Out here doin the lords work for real, never even thought to check! Thanks mate
Brilliant guide mate, did this today for the first time so easy!
Wont copper grease eat away at thr rubber was told not go use that but a silicone based stuff
I think the use of a pry bar should explain that.
Correct! Don't use Copper Grease on rubber bushes.
I did that 'surgery' the other day on a VW Tiguan 4 wheel drive 2015 model.
Very easy if you got the right tools!
Used Wurth PTFE spray which made the process easier/quicker :-)
Thanks a lott Kevin!
No worries, glad it helped 👍
Be Geeeeeenntle with the 16 mm bolt guys.... the subframe is aluminium, the thread is f***** fragile ! (the T-torque is 65nm for the 16mm, 80nm for the 18)
; love how you did it 1 handed very simple job 5 minutes
Just done this on passat b7 2014 and on my drive using axle stands i used a crowbar and a load of wd40 get it off very simple to was expecting it to be much harder also just poped straight back on if you can change a wheel you can do this thanks for the video
This is excellent, thanks very much, please keep sharing. Just ignore that complete muppet. Also I noticed your R1 video that is fantastic (I'm an ex ZX6r owner and track-day racer)
Great job - only one comment: Copper paste and copper grease are only for metal use as they have anti-rust and anti-seize properties. They can damage rubber material. Spray a window cleaner instead; it works great as a lubricant for such jobs.
You're right 👍
Those bolts should be replaced. And they should also be torqued to spec. And proper grease should be used. Otherwise looks simple enough
No need, that is not how shit works in the uk. All bolts are torqued to 'tight as fuck'.
As for the copper grease... I have no defence. Thats bad. Red rubber grease only
@@gaffnaldo1 lol. So true
Stretch bolts (as well as locknuts) should always be replaced not reused (but if absolutely no choice use thread-lock); full weight should be on wheels in normal ground load position before final tightening; subframe locating pins (e.g T10096) should be used (and then re-alignment should not be necessary)? Or that bush can be pulled and replaced with the housing in position i.e. so no re-alignment needed?
Its better to change the whole arm as front bush wears off as well. It costs mayb another £10 to £20 extra.
VW Dealership told me they wanted $875 to do this job. I did it for under $100 and about 2 hours of my time including running down the parts.
Nice, i upgraded mine with an S3 bushing. Been holding up great for the past 2ish years.
Thought this was gonna be easy, 2 of the 3 bolts came out easy, the 3rd one (16mm) came out about one cm and is now completely seized wont go back or come out and I feel that its gonna snap, so I bit the bullet and bought an impact wrench, so lets see if that works, otherwise I might have to drop the subframe if that bolt snaps to replace that one bracket.
@@NathansLife if you have access to a blow torch, get some heat on the bolt. Once it's hot, work the bolt in and out, screw out a bit, then back in a bit until you work it all the way out. It will probably bring the thread out with it unfortunately. If so, you should be able to use a helicoil to repair the thread without subframe removal. This problem is relatively common.
Great video .Cheers.
Brilliant video mate. Easy work
Brilliant ! well done KC
Great vid.. thanks so much
How about the stretch bolts? Do they not need to be replaced? Is there not alot of force put on them in operation of the car?
Dude you saved me I would’ve had to take the driver side control arm off and the transmission pan is literally in the way of a bolt so no clearance
Thanks for this vid very helpful
wat happens if you dont locate the bushings the correct way as mine still went up?
RUBBER GREASE ONLY should be used,also new stretch bolts as once only use items,these items need torque loading with weight on wheels not garage lift
can this be made with the car be sitting on the wheels and not to be suspended into the air?
Gotta say all three bolt are torque to yield bolts and definitely needs to be replaced and torqued to spec, I thought only Americans don’t use torque wrenches lol, but it seems I am wrong.
Didn't have access to torque specs and had not been supplied with new bolts. I've never had any come undone to be fair
Thanks for this, appreciate it.
So you don't need to drop the sub frame on the Tiguan to replace that bushing
Informative video 👍🏼 cheers
Out of interest, does anyone know what the correct torque is for the bolts?
Ugga dugga x2
Thank for video
great video. Nice one :)
Just had mine replaced by a local independant on a octy mk2 purchased the same bushes inc with the mounts the mech said he had a right mare getting them off and had to cut them with a angle grinder to get em off ? got them replaced on the advice when getting my steering realigned guy said they were worn
He's obviously not seen this video lol!
Mineral grease on rubber? Silicon grease or other without mineral inside.
Yes, means the Bush degrades more quickly, so you can do the job again, extracting more money from the customer 👍
@@gsoup7850 😂
Buzz em all up... So don't replace the single use torque to yield bolts then?
dopiaza2006 you are quite right, it is important essential to replace all torque to yeild bolts and this I should have mentioned. However, this was a job I did for somebody else that wanted to cut corners at every turn, so I was just following orders lol. I have reused these bolts on many occasions though and haven't experienced a problem so far. And buzzing them up, may as well, they have already been stretched beyond their yeild point, so applying the correct torque would be impossible.
Sorry, was just being an arse!... I do it all the time and have never had one come loose or snap. I'm looking to do this job soon on my Mk5 Golf but want to go with the uprated TT non voided bushes. I understand the bush housings are different though so will need to press out/in the new bushes.
nice video thanks
Good video! Is there enough room for gear pullers to work instead of prying it out?
kr899 Hi, never tried pullers, but then when the pry bar is so simple?.......
does the car need to be aligned after this??Good video.
Trucker dude no realignment is required
I would at least get the alignment checked.
when these bushings go do they usually make a clunk/bang noise when taken off?.
Do you mean 'when taking off'?
Kevin Coyne sorry mean as in driving say if I’m sitting at light go to drive I can hear a clunk/bang noise.. recently changed tie rod.. anti roll bushings all look prefect no play in bar
@@xoxtoyotamadxoxthat could be anything and difficult to diagnose on the Internet. Where are you based?
Kevin Coyne just changed the bushings noise still there not as bad tho thinking it’s the shock now as it’s burst.. I’m in Ireland
@@xoxtoyotamadxox Check roll bar drop links for free play in the balljoints
What about the front bush?
good question
I didn’t see where it’s broken up??? I’m a chick coming here to learn so teach us 😊
Could this worn bush cause vibration in the steering
Mubzy I would say it's more likely to cause vague steering and premature tyre wear. Vibration in steering more likely to be wheel balancing not correct, a buckled wheel or warped brake discs if it happens when braking
Kevin Coyne thanx for the response but yes steering vibrate while driving its golf tdi mk5 bushes are worn tho
Yes it will.
Much easier than BMW.
changed the front wishbones of my 2.0 tdi golf yesterday
first one easy 2nd one for some strange reason the bolt snapped first time it had been took of too
was moving the bolt back and forward and spraying wd40 on it and it snapped right at the head end aint a clue why it was so tight like
it one of the 3 long bolts which hold the main bush in
so just driving on 2 bolts till i get this fixed
only about 5 mm of the bolt showing and the bolts are around 3, somethink inchs long
what is the best way to go
i was thinking of drilling the bolt then put a slighter longest bolt through and the a washed a nut of other side of steel plate as there is room to do this
any advice would be great
and how dangerous is to drive temporarely with 2 bolts ?
WD40 is no good for releasing bolts. Use plusgas or similar.
How did you just wiggle the new bushing in? I can't seem to push it in by hand and may need to take it off anyway to use a press
kr899 put loads of lube on the bushing and the arm. eat some spinach then push and wiggle with all your might! it will go on! do not waste your Sunday afternoon taking the arm off ;-)
Haha thanks. I managed in the end. there was quite a bit of rust on my old car so I sanded that off and gave it another go.
lol, thats great to hear
This part is not left and right?
Yes they are sided
@@gsoup7850 Thank you very much🫡
Mate, you've used the wrong grease - copper grease eats rubber. Should have used silicone or red rubber grease for lubrication. You'll be doing that job again soon.
You're probably right
is it same like in GOLF mk4?
EL Fugitivo Golf mk4 is different. I would probably just fit new wishbones with the bushes pre installed
before on corsa was diferent ...i cannot believe all the cars have this parts different ...
Ned aligned after that ???
Not likely since the ball joint wasn't removed.
that bushing will go back again . the vacuum pump seal is leaking oil bad gasket or cv axle busted grease on it. this cars suspension is absolutely shit
This is the Easy Side Bro... when are you going to do the Drivers Side ?
(bahahahaa)
What's the difference?
@@gsoup7850 Do Search. The Transmission pan is in the way!
@@jjsiegal1 DSG?
Dynamnometric impact driver! This is how to do it in the wrong way.
Please explain
Incorrect technique, you're causing unnecessary strain onto the control arm's bolt attachments to the mainframe of the car. Not to mention that using a hammer/prying tool to remove the bad bushings underneath a car that is suspended in the air is completely IRRESPONSIBLE and unnecessarily DANGEROUS.
Shivam id be genuinely interested to learn how this technique is dangerous and irresponsible; would you mind breaking it down for me?
Instead of hammering the front cradle bushing out of the control arm, he could've removed it the proper way. This causes wear on the control arm and inevitably leads to replacing it which is costly.
And the danger element?
This was all done underneath a car that was suspended. It wasn't safe to be prying/hammering away at the car nor the car's parts in order to pry/remove the cradle bushing.... bottom line the procedure shown here works, but there are easier and safer ways to do it as well.
I also fail to see how this would cause damage or is dangerous. he is prying only on the end of the control arm on the front/rear axis. What control arm wear? Also, I don't see how doing so would push the car off the lift LOL
This video 🤦🏾♂️
Everything about that is wrong
Care to share what exactly?