You wrapped the tape on backwards. Tape goes on clockwise for right hand thread. The tape will release and spin up the fitting instead of going into the female receiver the way you wrapped it. If you can't remember which way.... just use liquid tape or anti seize.
Rich Here is a tip i have used often. I'm sure you have heard of it. When dealing with a frozen pipe, and simple shutting off the water still leaves ice in its place fill the pipe end that is the source of the water with white bread it will hold things back long enought to solder the connection. Tks for all your help. Mike Roy 1980 Dimon Grad "80 H" Metal Fab. And Welding.
It's not necessary to keep the flame away from Teflon. He was worried about the plastic part, not the Teflon. Teflon melts at 620F, while plumbing solder melts at 360F.
Richard Verret No he installs a simple nipple without an anode rod. The tank probably has a remnant of the other anode rod so actually he should have replaced both.
I must admit to being a bit surprised that these tanks are made out of coated steel. In the UK regulations require unvented hotwater tanks are made of stainless steel, thus no need for that sacrificial anode. More expensive of course, but worth it in the long run and it also eliminates the possibility of rust flakes getting into the downstream copper piping which can be the cause of corrosion and pinhole leaks.
@Tworth23 : Vented vs. unvented is essentially gas vs. electric. (I doubt many people have vented electric water heaters.) Electric water heaters (unvented) are more prone to rusting than are gas water heaters (vented). Hence, the OP.
Too many variables with my 18 yr old heater, so I had it replaced. It was Evercleen like this one. It probably could have been saved, but both places on top had rust etc.
Could a rusted pipe on the hot water intake side cause low water pressure throughout the house when water is being used by washing machine or flushing a toilet? There does seem to be a little water seeming out from that pipe.
Obviously too much ended up on the cutting room floor because of editing for TV. Was that a plastic lined nipple to help with future galvanic corrosion? Did you install a new anode rod? Flux on the pipes prior to solder? Is it better to also use a dielectric union, even though it is a so called dielectric nipple? Why does the worst corrosion and scaling seem to occur at the hot exit?
I'm having this issue right now at my apartment right now it's causing the water from the faulty Water heater valve to flow down to the closet in my bedroom Below the hot water heater tank and now my carpet is really wet and probably meldewed and moldy how can we correct this issue right now there is still dampness behind the wall and we can not see it there is mold in the walls behind were the leak started should we keep putting fans on the area's that is wet or should we not need advice thanks
It's not completely unimportant, but I personally have never seen an issue with doing it counter-clockwise. I suspect that it'll only be a problem if you do not cover the fitting with enough tape.
I agree! There is a correct way and a wrong way. We used to laugh at the rookies putting it on wrong at work. I have seen the tape actual un-peel during assembly when it was installed backwards. I am surprised that they didn't see this when they filmed it.
That’s the hot side (that’s why he’s using the red Teflon tape - blue is for cold). The cold water inlet has the vacuum breaker installed. Yes, you can find all the fittings at big box stores. They’re usually 3/4”
A good way to avoid corrosion on those pipe threads is to simply use a 3/4" BRASS pipe/nipple instead of steel (Home Depot carries those). Brass won't corrode. And then add either a brass Union connection after that, or a stainless steel braided connector, between the tank and the lines to make it easier to change the water tank in 15 years time.
They are not pipe nipples but they are actually the heat trap values (Basically check values) that are required by law in the US (I think) to save energy.
You are right the brass will not corrode, but since there are still two dissimilar metals, what will? The steel tank. Is that what you really want? Isn't it easier to change out a steel nipple (actually a steel heat trap) than change out a leaking tank? While the stainless braided flex connector looks nice, there is a rubber or rubber like hose inside. If you are looking for longevity, you might be better served with copper flex lines which incorporate a plastic separator to keep the copper from touching the brass nut and only a rubber washer. Another benefit of the flex line is you can create your own heat trap by forming an inverted U with an extra length flex line. The heat will rise to the top of the U but wont go down the other side. No little rubber flap or moving ball as in the nipple heat traps. I like your thinking of keeping the tank for 15 (or longer) years. Remember to inspect the anode regularly if you want to realize that goal. Thanks, Bill Loesch
Worst teflon application he could have done because there was a piece overlapping the inside of the tube and over time it will break off and go into the system to possibly cause havoc. Always make sure that when you thread teflon (ptfe/plumbers) tape on that it does not go over the top into the flow of water.
why didn't you put the anode rod back in the water heater? (you can see it still sitting on the shelf behind him when he solders the new joint). Or, did you replace it with a new one? I also would have installed a union to allow easy removal in the future. I did learn about the anode rod though and will look for other videos that explain that more in-depth!.
They are not easily found in regular hardware stores. I suspect he was surprised to find it and simply didn't have another one on hand, but he should have mentioned it.
Why is the union fitting that is made of steel connected to a copper fitting? They are disimilar metals is that acceptable? Should it be copper like the other fitting? Anyone know? Thank you
Does he realize this fitting probably corroded due to dissimilar metals touching each other? Meaning there should be dielectric unions separating the steel fittings from the copper. Yes use Teflon tape on the threads but tape does not replace a dielectric union. I realize codes from one area to another differ but I was always taught these unions are required by code. Even if not required by code? This looks like a clear call for them?
Because of leaks. When something is more convenient, it usually will not last very long. Why didn't he use a flex pipe? Again flex is thinner walled copper, so it can bend which will spring a leak way sooner that a rigid copper pipe will. Moral is don't be lazy.
Didn’t say. He should have mentioned what he did. I suspect he didn’t bring a new one, and since that tank has two rods it is not as important to replace that one. Typically a tank with a 6 year warrantee has one rod, a 12 year warrantee has two.
Nope, I did not miss it, he did not use an anode fitting. Also, I notice that first sweat connection he made "before I put it on the coupling" looks to be a "cold joint". The old solder joints are poor too.
Yes, required by code in MA on all hot water heaters connected to city water. To prevent the extremely unlikely possibility of a fire engine imploding your hot water heater if during a fire nearby it pulls too much suction.
And don't yes DON'T overlap teflon tape over the end of pipe. It will shear off and get in your water and float up and plug aerators and even your toilet valves! Come on This Old House. You should know this.
I have a strange electrical problem. 4 years ago I installed three GFCI outlets on my patio by pulling a seperate 20 amp citcuit directly from the main breaker box. Everything was working as it should until now. The first outlet on the upstream is not working, no power and the GFCI can not be reset. Two other outlets that are fed from the bad one works fine. A tester shas no lights lit, which mean open Hot. What is the problem and solution? Thanks
This is incorrect, you cannot directly connect a copper fitting to a steel fitting, it needs a dialectic union, which separates the two different kinds of metals. The reason for the heavy corrosion is exactly what you are replacing with. When two different metals touch each other what happens is called galvanic corrosion. This is also a code violation in most municipalities.
If Richard installed a shut-off where he cut the pipe (the hot feed to the house), the next time he had to service the water heater he could shut off the inlet AND outlet... then not have to drain the entire hot water system throughout the house. Why not improve the system as long as the pipe is cut?
Would you happen to know how long it takes to drain water from a two story condo if the MAIN water shutoff valve is closed? I close the valve and all the faucets are still running. Its a new shutoff valve, but what do you think is going on?
Slap Stick Wow... if you are getting full pressure to each faucet then either the shutoff is faulty (a faulty shutoff usually will at least reduce pressure) or the line is connected to another source as well. I once saw a condo that during construction the plumbing was connected to the next door unit. Drove everyone crazy trying to locate the system routing. If there is water pressure and the main is off, there has to be another source of pressure.
Porsche924Tim I do know when the plumber originally was working on it, he shut the main to the whole building...then he had to let the water run down for at least 15 minutes in our unit. Then he started cutting and welding. I was thinking I should let it run for ten minutes maybe? ...but just doesn't seem right. How long would it typically take, do you think before the water stops (assuming no crossover from neighbors pipes,etc.
and in 3 minutes we learn how to void an extended warranty by not reinstalling a second anode. Also as someone mentioned In my mothers house she has shutoffs on both pipes, they did that to make it easier to change the water heater, there is an air inlet valve on some shut offs so you can still drain, remove, and install a tank without going up to the top floor to open a faucet. just shut shut remove air cap and open the drain valve. You also could just pull open the pressure release valve to let air into the tank, you are replacing a tank anyway, no risk in damaging the valve by messing around with it.
@@noahholt482 which code? which subsection? there is nothing against putting valves on both sides, it does not create a sealed anything as there are still two exit points one of which being the pressure relief valve which that right there means it cannot become a sealed environment, and seriously, what do you think happens when all your sinks, tubs, and appliances do when they are all shut off? the exact same thing as putting a shutoff valve on the outlet side of the hot water heater. Also before servicing you shut off the cold supply, open the drain and empty the tank and if you have a shut off on the hot side you prevent emptying of the entire hot water piping system in the house which would create more issues having all the lines filled with air you would then have to safely bleed out which is very difficult with things like washing machines.
Teflon wrong way, 100% didn't use or not enough flux (can See it in the solder joints) Didn't clean the pipe enough before soldering and I personally would have cut out that other coupling just to make it look better. Great work, hack.
This one in my home is from 1990. Original anode rod. I'd replace it but after this long, I have a feeling that trying to remove it would cause disaster.
My sentiment too. Somebody said that unit has two rods so it still has one that's about gone. First time I've seen Richard fail to do a master craftsman type job ...
See that electrolysis corrosion on the part he removed cuz there was no dielectric union? So he put the same thing back, copper to galvanized just so he could change it out again in a couple years. Also, I always add a second shut-off (1/4 ball valve) the the outlet as well to isolate the plumbing for future service. Another pointer to save a whole lot of headache on startup ,for the initial purge after tank filling take the aerator out of the purge faucet and don't choose shower mixer valves. All that crud shaken loose in the system will get stuck, even in angle stops and faucet valves. I search for the least likely to clog fixture tp purge through. But again, having that second valve installed minimizes the purge in the future.
Tie Dye the fitting he used was a dielectric nipple. Do a little research on it. The thermal plastic lining inside the nipple prevents any connection of disimalar metals from occuring therefore preventing corrosion. The only reason that it failed in the initial nipple is because it leaked allowing water to reach the exterior of the nipple causing a reaction. The Teflon tape will prevent that in the future.
I stand corrected and not sure why I made that statement as I buy and use them by the 10 packs. Forgive me for my ignorant statement. I am surprised however that he didn't replace the anode rod. He was caught off guard I guess.
WARNING!!!! Some water heaters, particularly old ones, have a press-fit nipple that can't be removed!!! I stripped the threads trying this last week, and it cost me $909 for a new heater!!
They were careful to leave out the professional knowledge and efforts that make you pay them instead of DIY Something important is, get all the air out. If you don't get the air out, there will be problems with operation and possibly damage to tank when you let it heat fully. Usually gravity will make this happen if you just give it time to flow through the pipes to all the open faucets you are closing after it stops hissing/popping. I imagine he also took the old anode and transferred it to the new dielectric nipple he installed after cleaning off the corrosion with a wire brush and rinsing. And yes he wrapped the nipple's threads with Teflon at both ends because dissimilar metals making contact = corrosion from tiny electrical current produced when water flows through it. The nipple has that white coating inside to serve the same purpose since water can be a conduit for the chemical reaction of transferring metal from one surface to the other in a salt form. Cleaning the anodes from time to time will ensure long life for the tank.
The copper fitting has a black washer. Tape on the pipe might prevent the fitting from forming a watertight seal with the washer. Never use tape with fittings that have washers. The washer is what makes the seal. I thought TOH guys know what they are doing - they just repeat what they were told. Also, he wrapped the tape in the wrong direction. And, only the bottom threads of the nipple need tape. My 1987 tank has never had a rod replacement and it has no rust and no leak here in So. CA with very hard water. I have to wonder if rod use is bad science, repeated misinformation, or a scam to make money from useless parts. I doubt anyone has studied two new tanks together - one with replacement rods and one without a rod.
2:26 wrapping the tape backwards. Priceless.
🎉j h nm h yhhyh&😊_&2😊__hhuguhgguhy hhuhygg fjd😊^😊
You wrapped the tape on backwards. Tape goes on clockwise for right hand thread. The tape will release and spin up the fitting instead of going into the female receiver the way you wrapped it. If you can't remember which way.... just use liquid tape or anti seize.
Unforgivable for a “plumber”.
that part that he took out, the rod. did he have to replace the whole thing with a new one? also is that whole piece sold as one?
Rich Here is a tip i have used often. I'm sure you have heard of it. When dealing with a frozen pipe, and simple shutting off the water still leaves ice in its place fill the pipe end that is the source of the water with white bread it will hold things back long enought to solder the connection. Tks for all your help. Mike Roy 1980 Dimon Grad "80 H" Metal Fab. And Welding.
Great tip on keeping the soldering away from the Teflon. Some of us forget. :)
It's not necessary to keep the flame away from Teflon. He was worried about the plastic part, not the Teflon. Teflon melts at 620F, while plumbing solder melts at 360F.
Didn't replace the anode, put the teflon tape on wrong and never fluxed the connector piece, other than that, top notch work there.
hahahaha
The rod was replaced. You can see the old one on the ledge behind him at 2:42. But all the other points remain lol
The real question is...If the guy paid for extended warranty why does he have his buddy doing the repair?
Adventures in Bitcoin
Richard is doing the repair. That's better than any warantee😁
Richard Verret
No he installs a simple nipple without an anode rod. The tank probably has a remnant of the other anode rod so actually he should have replaced both.
Did you replace the rod?
Watch the homeowner's eyes at 0:28. Haha!
Hahaha
When you try to bust a nut at 80
You always make it look so easy. Thanks for the confidence :-)
No need to reinstall a new anode?
I must admit to being a bit surprised that these tanks are made out of coated steel. In the UK regulations require unvented hotwater tanks are made of stainless steel, thus no need for that sacrificial anode. More expensive of course, but worth it in the long run and it also eliminates the possibility of rust flakes getting into the downstream copper piping which can be the cause of corrosion and pinhole leaks.
Our tanks are vented, not unvented. Maybe that’s why?
Stainless sounds way better than Rusty steel going through your pipes
that's what we are stuck with
@Tworth23 : Vented vs. unvented is essentially gas vs. electric. (I doubt many people have vented electric water heaters.) Electric water heaters (unvented) are more prone to rusting than are gas water heaters (vented). Hence, the OP.
Love the video! I've done this several times. Wish I had one of those little snap cutters.
weedram Tell your wish to someone that works at Home Depot, they'll make your dreams come true.
Use dielectric couplers on both , cold and hot. Problem solved. BTW As of now building code in all states requires it.
Too many variables with my 18 yr old heater, so I had it replaced. It was Evercleen like this one. It probably could have been saved, but both places on top had rust etc.
May want to mention if your doing the cold inlet there is a dip tube attached. Had to do a hack or I would have no water for a few days.
Could a rusted pipe on the hot water intake side cause low water pressure throughout the house when water is being used by washing machine or flushing a toilet? There does seem to be a little water seeming out from that pipe.
Obviously too much ended up on the cutting room floor because of editing for TV. Was that a plastic lined nipple to help with future galvanic corrosion? Did you install a new anode rod? Flux on the pipes prior to solder? Is it better to also use a dielectric union, even though it is a so called dielectric nipple? Why does the worst corrosion and scaling seem to occur at the hot exit?
Which side of the threaded nipple was he applying Teflon tape counterclockwise?
Did you drain all the water?
I'm having this issue right now at my apartment right now it's causing the water from the faulty Water heater valve to flow down to the closet in my bedroom Below the hot water heater tank and now my carpet is really wet and probably meldewed and moldy how can we correct this issue right now there is still dampness behind the wall and we can not see it there is mold in the walls behind were the leak started should we keep putting fans on the area's that is wet or should we not need advice thanks
You wrapped the teflon tape, the wrong way..should always be clockwise.. 2:23
I too noticed that
It's not completely unimportant, but I personally have never seen an issue with doing it counter-clockwise. I suspect that it'll only be a problem if you do not cover the fitting with enough tape.
I agree! There is a correct way and a wrong way. We used to laugh at the rookies putting it on wrong at work. I have seen the tape actual un-peel during assembly when it was installed backwards. I am surprised that they didn't see this when they filmed it.
@@geraldmiller1448
They didn't even question the vent which is probably why it corroded so bad on the side that was facing the vent.
Imagine that is a guru what about regular plummer
Can i install stainless steel threaded compression hose instead?
Did Richard replace the Anode rod too ?
I hope so
Check out our video How to Change a Water Heater Anode Rod: How to Change a Water Heater Anode Rod - This Old House
+Charles Damery I also wonder it. In the video, he didn't show put the new Anode rod in.
+weedram I'm a newbie and noticed that the rod was never mentioned again.
Charles Damery
Question is that the cold side or hot side? Do they sale the new pipe at the big box’s store?
That’s the hot side (that’s why he’s using the red Teflon tape - blue is for cold). The cold water inlet has the vacuum breaker installed. Yes, you can find all the fittings at big box stores. They’re usually 3/4”
A good way to avoid corrosion on those pipe threads is to simply use a 3/4" BRASS pipe/nipple instead of steel (Home Depot carries those). Brass won't corrode. And then add either a brass Union connection after that, or a stainless steel braided connector, between the tank and the lines to make it easier to change the water tank in 15 years time.
They are not pipe nipples but they are actually the heat trap values (Basically check values) that are required by law in the US (I think) to save energy.
You are right the brass will not corrode, but since there are still two dissimilar metals, what will? The steel tank. Is that what you really want? Isn't it easier to change out a steel nipple (actually a steel heat trap) than change out a leaking tank? While the stainless braided flex connector looks nice, there is a rubber or rubber like hose inside. If you are looking for longevity, you might be better served with copper flex lines which incorporate a plastic separator to keep the copper from touching the brass nut and only a rubber washer. Another benefit of the flex line is you can create your own heat trap by forming an inverted U with an extra length flex line. The heat will rise to the top of the U but wont go down the other side. No little rubber flap or moving ball as in the nipple heat traps. I like your thinking of keeping the tank for 15 (or longer) years. Remember to inspect the anode regularly if you want to realize that goal. Thanks, Bill Loesch
Dielectric fitting would work as well
Did you replace the anode rod ?
Thats what was puzzling in this. And does anoid rods come with gas water heaters?
Worst teflon application he could have done because there was a piece overlapping the inside of the tube and over time it will break off and go into the system to possibly cause havoc. Always make sure that when you thread teflon (ptfe/plumbers) tape on that it does not go over the top into the flow of water.
Another way to say it is, "Keep the first thread clean." Good catch.
Exactly, you can make sure of that by leaving one thread free.
When did he attach the annode rod to the new fitting? Am I missing something?
He didn’t.
why didn't you put the anode rod back in the water heater? (you can see it still sitting on the shelf behind him when he solders the new joint). Or, did you replace it with a new one? I also would have installed a union to allow easy removal in the future. I did learn about the anode rod though and will look for other videos that explain that more in-depth!.
They are not easily found in regular hardware stores. I suspect he was surprised to find it and simply didn't have another one on hand, but he should have mentioned it.
Same question
So dear pals, why we dont use a union IPS and always we are cutting and soldering pipes all the time?
Am I missing something or did a master plumber just wrap the Teflon backwards
You're right.
No dielectric fittings?
No flux?
1:16 his reaction was funny
Richard , I was surprised you didn't use a union
Why is the union fitting that is made of steel connected to a copper fitting? They are disimilar metals is that acceptable? Should it be copper like the other fitting?
Anyone know?
Thank you
@Josh Lee Thank you! Now i know.
Learned something new.
Does he realize this fitting probably corroded due to dissimilar metals touching each other? Meaning there should be dielectric unions separating the steel fittings from the copper. Yes use Teflon tape on the threads but tape does not replace a dielectric union. I realize codes from one area to another differ but I was always taught these unions are required by code. Even if not required by code? This looks like a clear call for them?
Nice
Why wouldn't you use a union?now you have to cut and re-solder if something goes wrong
Because of leaks. When something is more convenient, it usually will not last very long. Why didn't he use a flex pipe? Again flex is thinner walled copper, so it can bend which will spring a leak way sooner that a rigid copper pipe will. Moral is don't be lazy.
Union nj
how many wraps on the threads? what was the condition of the female thread?
You should have used a Dielectric Union?
whats the silver tube thing called
If You Look At 2:23 Min. Richard is Putting The Tape On The Nipple The WRONG Way It Has To Be Put On Clockwise On Right hand Threads
Did Richard check for electrical ground integrity and replace the anode?
Did you see it in the video? Dummy squad.
Didn’t say. He should have mentioned what he did. I suspect he didn’t bring a new one, and since that tank has two rods it is not as important to replace that one. Typically a tank with a 6 year warrantee has one rod, a 12 year warrantee has two.
I kind wondered the same thing... What about the a anode rod not replaced?
Was a -new- magnesium rod used? I hope so....
um ok so how do you replace the anode rod????????????????????????????????????
I may have missed something; did he replace the outlet anode? If not, he needs to get one and come back and cut the pipe again...!
Nope, I did not miss it, he did not use an anode fitting. Also, I notice that first sweat connection he made "before I put it on the coupling" looks to be a "cold joint". The old solder joints are poor too.
What is that black unit on top the cold inlet, some sort of vacuum breaker?
Yes, required by code in MA on all hot water heaters connected to city water. To prevent the extremely unlikely possibility of a fire engine imploding your hot water heater if during a fire nearby it pulls too much suction.
So instead of steel why not use glass in the inside of tank?
$$$$ they do have glass lines tanks and they last forever and also cost a fortune
Diaeletric unions is key
And don't yes DON'T overlap teflon tape over the end of pipe. It will shear off and get in your water and float up and plug aerators and even your toilet valves! Come on This Old House. You should know this.
Those couplers don't come out unless 75 gallon tank
I have a strange electrical problem. 4 years ago I installed three GFCI outlets on my patio by pulling a seperate 20 amp citcuit directly from the main breaker box. Everything was working as it should until now. The first outlet on the upstream is not working, no power and the GFCI can not be reset. Two other outlets that are fed from the bad one works fine. A tester shas no lights lit, which mean open Hot. What is the problem and solution?
Thanks
Have u figured it out by now?
He did not apply flux before soldering , also wrapped the teflon in the wrong direction.
Shouldn't they replace the corroded anode rod with a new one before re-piping ? Opps too late now.
Is it just me or did he put the Teflon tape on backwards?
A dielectric fitting would’ve stopped the galvanic corrosion from eating away at the threads, dissimilar metals are no good together.
He should have put a union in the place of that coupler so you can remove it easier next time you have issues.
A dielectric union at that.
he's at john kasich's house
This is incorrect, you cannot directly connect a copper fitting to a steel fitting, it needs a dialectic union, which separates the two different kinds of metals. The reason for the heavy corrosion is exactly what you are replacing with. When two different metals touch each other what happens is called galvanic corrosion. This is also a code violation in most municipalities.
Teflon tape was installed backwards.
If Richard installed a shut-off where he cut the pipe (the hot feed to the house), the next time he had to service the water heater he could shut off the inlet AND outlet... then not have to drain the entire hot water system throughout the house. Why not improve the system as long as the pipe is cut?
Would you happen to know how long it takes to drain water from a two story condo if the MAIN water shutoff valve is closed? I close the valve and all the faucets are still running. Its a new shutoff valve, but what do you think is going on?
Slap Stick Just the hot water shutoff, or the entire main from the meter? Does each condo unit have its own meter and shutoff?
Porsche924Tim Not the hot water...the actual main that goes to each unit. Each unit has its own shutoff.
Slap Stick Wow... if you are getting full pressure to each faucet then either the shutoff is faulty (a faulty shutoff usually will at least reduce pressure) or the line is connected to another source as well. I once saw a condo that during construction the plumbing was connected to the next door unit. Drove everyone crazy trying to locate the system routing. If there is water pressure and the main is off, there has to be another source of pressure.
Porsche924Tim I do know when the plumber originally was working on it, he shut the main to the whole building...then he had to let the water run down for at least 15 minutes in our unit. Then he started cutting and welding. I was thinking I should let it run for ten minutes maybe? ...but just doesn't seem right. How long would it typically take, do you think before the water stops (assuming no crossover from neighbors pipes,etc.
and in 3 minutes we learn how to void an extended warranty by not reinstalling a second anode. Also as someone mentioned In my mothers house she has shutoffs on both pipes, they did that to make it easier to change the water heater, there is an air inlet valve on some shut offs so you can still drain, remove, and install a tank without going up to the top floor to open a faucet. just shut shut remove air cap and open the drain valve. You also could just pull open the pressure release valve to let air into the tank, you are replacing a tank anyway, no risk in damaging the valve by messing around with it.
shut off valve on both creates a sealed vessel which could explode its is against code to have shutoff on the hot side
@@noahholt482 which code? which subsection? there is nothing against putting valves on both sides, it does not create a sealed anything as there are still two exit points one of which being the pressure relief valve which that right there means it cannot become a sealed environment, and seriously, what do you think happens when all your sinks, tubs, and appliances do when they are all shut off? the exact same thing as putting a shutoff valve on the outlet side of the hot water heater. Also before servicing you shut off the cold supply, open the drain and empty the tank and if you have a shut off on the hot side you prevent emptying of the entire hot water piping system in the house which would create more issues having all the lines filled with air you would then have to safely bleed out which is very difficult with things like washing machines.
What if the Teflon tape is leaking?
Teflon wrong way, 100% didn't use or not enough flux (can See it in the solder joints) Didn't clean the pipe enough before soldering and I personally would have cut out that other coupling just to make it look better. Great work, hack.
He put the Teflon tape on backwards…..suppose to be clockwise looking down at threads
You did not install a dielectric union between the metals.
It's not needed. the water heater fittings are dielectric
wow..my hot water tank is from 1978.. it dosent leak and my water is not brown.. i guess i bought a good one..
san379 Just maintain it.. It’s asocial if you have visitors to provide them with water that has been in a rotten boiler.
American made I'm guessing.
This one in my home is from 1990. Original anode rod. I'd replace it but after this long, I have a feeling that trying to remove it would cause disaster.
Why does the heater have a vacuum breaker they are for a bottom feed heater not top
massachusetts code
bro was frazzled at 0:28
what about the pilot light?
might a autolighter.
Galvanized nipples give trouble. Use brass nipples instead.
P.B. Theriver Those are not standard nipples Those nipples are heat trap nipples
He installed the wrong part. He should have installed a new anode rod. Now the water heater has no protection.
My sentiment too. Somebody said that unit has two rods so it still has one that's about gone. First time I've seen Richard fail to do a master craftsman type job ...
What, no flux?
This video is full of mistakes and future problems. Disregard everything you seen.
Homey didnt tell ya he got some teenager to spin that cutter for about 20 mins...lol...
See that electrolysis corrosion on the part he removed cuz there was no dielectric union? So he put the same thing back, copper to galvanized just so he could change it out again in a couple years. Also, I always add a second shut-off (1/4 ball valve) the the outlet as well to isolate the plumbing for future service. Another pointer to save a whole lot of headache on startup ,for the initial purge after tank filling take the aerator out of the purge faucet and don't choose shower mixer valves. All that crud shaken loose in the system will get stuck, even in angle stops and faucet valves. I search for the least likely to clog fixture tp purge through. But again, having that second valve installed minimizes the purge in the future.
Tie Dye the fitting he used was a dielectric nipple. Do a little research on it. The thermal plastic lining inside the nipple prevents any connection of disimalar metals from occuring therefore preventing corrosion. The only reason that it failed in the initial nipple is because it leaked allowing water to reach the exterior of the nipple causing a reaction. The Teflon tape will prevent that in the future.
I stand corrected and not sure why I made that statement as I buy and use them by the 10 packs. Forgive me for my ignorant statement. I am surprised however that he didn't replace the anode rod. He was caught off guard I guess.
I wish that he was my plumber.
No.
WARNING!!!! Some water heaters, particularly old ones, have a press-fit nipple that can't be removed!!! I stripped the threads trying this last week, and it cost me $909 for a new heater!!
ghosttwo2 yikes!!
Virtually no instructional value to this video.
Minds stuck like every one else s
That vent looks undersized
Di-electric union should be used, I think, because dissimilar metals are in contact. But I don't see one.
They were careful to leave out the professional knowledge and efforts that make you pay them instead of DIY
Something important is, get all the air out. If you don't get the air out, there will be problems with operation and possibly damage to tank when you let it heat fully.
Usually gravity will make this happen if you just give it time to flow through the pipes to all the open faucets you are closing after it stops hissing/popping.
I imagine he also took the old anode and transferred it to the new dielectric nipple he installed after cleaning off the corrosion with a wire brush and rinsing. And yes he wrapped the nipple's threads with Teflon at both ends because dissimilar metals making contact = corrosion from tiny electrical current produced when water flows through it. The nipple has that white coating inside to serve the same purpose since water can be a conduit for the chemical reaction of transferring metal from one surface to the other in a salt form.
Cleaning the anodes from time to time will ensure long life for the tank.
Disliked because wth did he do with the anode rod. I’m confused!!!
He said hot water heater if the water is hot why you need to heat it
Cuz os not hot enougth.
No fluxin' way!
The copper fitting has a black washer. Tape on the pipe might prevent the fitting from forming a watertight seal with the washer.
Never use tape with fittings that have washers. The washer is what makes the seal.
I thought TOH guys know what they are doing - they just repeat what they were told. Also, he wrapped the tape in the wrong direction. And, only the bottom threads of the nipple need tape.
My 1987 tank has never had a rod replacement and it has no rust and no leak here in So. CA with very hard water. I have to wonder if rod use is bad science, repeated misinformation, or a scam to make money from useless parts.
I doubt anyone has studied two new tanks together - one with replacement rods and one without a rod.
Not takin advice from someone who doesn't put Teflon on the right way 🤦🏽♂️
I don't have a hot water heater.
I have a cold water heater.
Farmer Dave I have a Cold water heater and a hot water cooler so it pisses of visitors when hot is cold and cold is hot
I have switched the knobs for the hot and cold for all of my sinks and baths so when someone takes a shower I have a good laugh
why is he mixing iron and copper? this will rust again in no time
Damm commercials
So many bad things going on here.
N
Cut it above that other coupling