Nice work - the install instructions are available on the Vanasche website. I had the same problems with fit of the frame bracket on my LR due to the bracket for the key switch cover. As a result Vanasche has pulled the LR kit off their site and are redesigning the bracket. Unfortunately there was. No way to modify their bracket to fit. I bought a BRP bracket for a standard 701 and was able to cut and fit it around the brackets and reinstalled the key switch cover. The kit eliminates the rubber bushings on the stock risers. I found the engine vibrations were really buzzing my hands and switched to Flexx bars. BTW - the 10 degree High bend Moto bars match the OEM bar specs but have a higher rise.
Thank you. Bars will be a next Winter project but will definitely happen. I too am waiting for the Vanasche parts and planned on shooting a follow up video. I published knowing there was a compatibility issue and I really should have added a pined comment about that but I honestly figured by now they'd have the part shipping. I'm probably going to remove the stabilizer and frame bracket until the revised part ships as it's literally the only thing that hasn't arrived yet and is keeping me from riding.
@@AdamChandler86 Is that the new redesigned Vanashe Scotts Damper frame plate you installed there which allows the tank to be fully bolted down at the front ??. Also you should consider bolting down the Scotts damper using the security bolt kit....as it's an expensive bit of gear to that is easy to steal, especially if you use the slightly higher bar risers which gives direct acccess to the two hold down bolts
@raymond woo, please qualify how much more vibration did you experience without oem rubber cones? how does vibration with the flexx bar compare to the oem setup with rubber cones?
@@raywoo1 so, to confirm, you're saying that you experienced less vibration with flexx bar + vanasche submount compared to oem rubber cones+oem handlebar?
Luckily, the 30MM risers themselves aren't too expensive so I can always change them mid-season without having to tear the bike down again. My super-tall seat won't be in until mid-May.
see now that set up around the ignition is great out of the box . i got the BRP undermount set up but it doesnt fit the LR and i had to cut the peace near the shape of that to make it work .
Hi Adam. Great video and for me having just bought a 2023 701 a mod I’ll be doing. Just a point of concern: how much higher could you have raised the bars? Is there much more free cable/hydraulic line length to do this? I’m only 5’8” but my aim is as close to a GSA riding triangle (perfect for me) and the standard seat/footrest/bars distances need some work. Many thanks, Ian
Hi. Sorry for the delay. I was traveling. There is plenty of slack left in the cables for you to go a bit higher…maybe a couple of inches although at that point, it might make the geometry of steering a bit ‘weird’ but that’s just my -experience with going way too high in the past. I think the GSA ergos are perfect so I agree with you there.
Hard question to answer because I never ran the bike in OEM state..I changed everything out with zero miles of riding time but I will say I don't think it vibrates too much. Obviously vibrates more than a GS but not more than my beta 500 single.
That would require applying heat to get them loose. 243 /290 have been good enough even on “permanent structural bolts” on these bikes. I tear down the bikes so much that I wouldn’t want to fuss with anything harder.
I'm not sure I understand. A) I'm not taking this personally, my use case is just different than yours B) Were you making a joke about permanent loctite as a lubricant?
Nice work - the install instructions are available on the Vanasche website. I had the same problems with fit of the frame bracket on my LR due to the bracket for the key switch cover. As a result Vanasche has pulled the LR kit off their site and are redesigning the bracket. Unfortunately there was. No way to modify their bracket to fit. I bought a BRP bracket for a standard 701 and was able to cut and fit it around the brackets and reinstalled the key switch cover.
The kit eliminates the rubber bushings on the stock risers. I found the engine vibrations were really buzzing my hands and switched to Flexx bars.
BTW - the 10 degree High bend Moto bars match the OEM bar specs but have a higher rise.
Thank you. Bars will be a next Winter project but will definitely happen. I too am waiting for the Vanasche parts and planned on shooting a follow up video. I published knowing there was a compatibility issue and I really should have added a pined comment about that but I honestly figured by now they'd have the part shipping. I'm probably going to remove the stabilizer and frame bracket until the revised part ships as it's literally the only thing that hasn't arrived yet and is keeping me from riding.
@@AdamChandler86 Is that the new redesigned Vanashe Scotts Damper frame plate you installed there which allows the tank to be fully bolted down at the front ??. Also you should consider bolting down the Scotts damper using the security bolt kit....as it's an expensive bit of gear to that is easy to steal, especially if you use the slightly higher bar risers which gives direct acccess to the two hold down bolts
@raymond woo, please qualify how much more vibration did you experience without oem rubber cones? how does vibration with the flexx bar compare to the oem setup with rubber cones?
@@damytzeus there’s 60% less vibration with the flex bar+Vanasche combo versus the OEM combo
@@raywoo1 so, to confirm, you're saying that you experienced less vibration with flexx bar + vanasche submount compared to oem rubber cones+oem handlebar?
Beautiful set up and also very practical. The risers might be a bit short but it might be enough since you lower the pegs some! Good job.
Luckily, the 30MM risers themselves aren't too expensive so I can always change them mid-season without having to tear the bike down again. My super-tall seat won't be in until mid-May.
see now that set up around the ignition is great out of the box . i got the BRP undermount set up but it doesnt fit the LR and i had to cut the peace near the shape of that to make it work .
yep, I saw a photo from another guy who has the BRP. He made some cuts and it now fits but not idea for people who don't have the tools.
Hi Adam. Great video and for me having just bought a 2023 701 a mod I’ll be doing. Just a point of concern: how much higher could you have raised the bars? Is there much more free cable/hydraulic line length to do this? I’m only 5’8” but my aim is as close to a GSA riding triangle (perfect for me) and the standard seat/footrest/bars distances need some work. Many thanks, Ian
Hi. Sorry for the delay. I was traveling. There is plenty of slack left in the cables for you to go a bit higher…maybe a couple of inches although at that point, it might make the geometry of steering a bit ‘weird’ but that’s just my -experience with going way too high in the past. I think the GSA ergos are perfect so I agree with you there.
HI aain Adam. I might have missed it in your video - but did you have to trim the ignition shroud when you were doing this install? Thx, Stevie 🙂
I didn’t think I had to initially but yes I did end up trimming it a bit. Minimal modification to the OEM part and it works well.
I have the same damper and bracket on my 690, what did you end up doing for the key cover thing?
Hi. I ended up cutting it just enough to clear the bike. It works great now.
Adam, with the 15mm riser did you have to do any cable re-routing?
Hi Rob, there wasn't any change in wiring.
Is your view of the instrument panel/dash blocked? it looked low but maybe you hadn't reattached it yet?
Now that everything is setup and no, it's not blocked when sitting on the bike.
how many mm’s did your risers add to the bar height over stock setup?
This is the +15MM riser.
in this video, in which orientation did you mount the risers? forward - bar away from rider? or rearward - bar closer to rider?
Looks like back toward the riding browsing through my photos.
Is this 15mn or 30mm riser you mount?😃
This was the 30 so I could clear the damper.
love all add ons its going to be a very functional looker....
Or a very heavy looker :P It’s coming along nicely!
Any issues with cable lengths
great question, zero issues.
how did switching from rubber cone inserts to aluminum cone inserts affect the vibration?
Hard question to answer because I never ran the bike in OEM state..I changed everything out with zero miles of riding time but I will say I don't think it vibrates too much. Obviously vibrates more than a GS but not more than my beta 500 single.
@@AdamChandler86 thank you
Lock tight 277 is the only way to go
That would require applying heat to get them loose. 243 /290 have been good enough even on “permanent structural bolts” on these bikes. I tear down the bikes so much that I wouldn’t want to fuss with anything harder.
@@AdamChandler86 don't take it personally ... Also game my brother 277 and told him it was lube for his lug nuts
I'm not sure I understand. A) I'm not taking this personally, my use case is just different than yours B) Were you making a joke about permanent loctite as a lubricant?