How To Make An Excellent Variable / Slow Speed Model Railway / Railroad Controller Without Soldering
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- How To Make A Model Railway / Railroad Controller Without Soldering - Tutorial Tuesday - Episode 22. Links to cases & PWM units: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364028801563
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Finally built my controller after receiving the casing and parts two weeks ago! Tested it and it worked first time which surprised me as I was expecting to have to redo part of it. Fantastic smooth and slow loco over points, dodgy track and everything.
Well done Doug on an awesome project! Very happy and can’t believe I didn’t do this before spending loads on other controllers!
We were the same
Put mine together last night. Fantastic piece of kit. Just getting back into the hobby and absolutely love what you two are doing. Cheers Steve.
I'm glad that your 3D printed models are selling well! I built a inertia controller (analogue) many years ago, was pretty cool. I also came up with a PWM one for T Gauge some years ago too, but never quite finished it. Got through the testing phase and that was about it
Hi guys. Great video. Just wired one of these up and tried it out. Amazingly slow running and really quiet locos. I'm well impressed.
This is a fantastic video and tutorial! Brings down the cost for sure as I myself am a 16 year old keen too build a model railway it very hard too finance it, but this really helps, thanks a ton guys I love your channels
I'll definitely be going this route for the two controllers I will need for my railway when I build eventually build it.
Quick tip: to add "strain relief" to the track wires either:
1) tie a simple knot in each track wire so it sits inside the box as the knot will not be able to be pulled through the track wire hole, or
2) put a small cable tie around each track wire on the inside as that will also not pass through the hole.
You will need to adjust the position for the knot or cable tie to ensure it provides correct strain relief before tugging on the connection.
.
Quick question: is there any value in adding two screw posts into the 3d print model to support the back of the board? The front is supported well by the knob, but the back could benefit from some support, maybe? Just a thought! For the Mk2 version!
.
Great work guys. I'm looking forward to the time when I'll need to get mine purchased.
Great work guys! I couldn't recommend this more! I just built one myself to fit into the micro layout I'm building. It works every bit as good as my kato power pack does for my needs, takes up practically no space, and it cost 1/5 the amount to build as my kato power pack did, including the power adapter!
Thats great thanks
Another amazing video and a great project. I have been looking for some components to build a controller into a small micro layout I am building. This will be perfect. Thanks for the links on the website. Will be ordering the bits shortly.
I am now using one and so pleased by my purchase. It is working a treat. The video is an excellent example of teaching. Everything so clear. Find detail such as that ‘click’ which lets you know you have got it right. Also the voice is just right, well enunciated and clear to this auld deaf Scotsman. Ten out if ten young man!
Thanks that's very kind of you
Thourgrhly recommend. I've been using home made PWM for a couple of years and they work great and are excellent value. Terry.
You, young man( I say that because I’m an oldie at 63 lol) are very informative with your presentations and I applaud you for that 👏🏼👏🏼. Absolute awesome channel that you and your father run. I’ve just been bought my very first set with a small oval track,engine and a couple of carriages and also been given the go ahead to use the loft so I am excited to set up my very first layout with the help of BMR. I’ve watched quite a few of your videos so far and its perfect for people like myself that do not have a lot of cash(I’m poor aint I lol). Anyway,sorry for babbling on but I had to comment on the great work you are both doing. Thank you for sharing your expertise.👏🏼👏🏼🙌🏻
Hi, thanks for your kind words and just happy we could help. My main advice would be to keep the track plan simple and work.in one side/area at a time, and have fun!
Well done ..... easy enough for a novice builder to tackle. Will look into USA plugs. I’m experimenting with constructing an 18” long portable fiddle yard to use with small traveling switching layouts. This controller would be a perfect companion.
well done guys i must say this is an amazing idea, i think ill be buying the things to make my own soon, keep the good work up!
Parts on order to build one of these ! Thanks to you two i am learning loads of new skills,many thanks :)
I need a box though!
Another well conceived project, in the 1980 I built one from components from a design in a magazine using strip board. lost it when i divorced. but this is so much easier and cheaper. well done guys. brilliant explanation by Doug.
Similar for me back when I was a teenager in the 80s. A bloke up the road designed a double PWM controller circuit for that strip board for his N gauge layout. It even had inertia brake and acceleration simulation to. I built one to his design and I think I had one bad solder joint to resolve, but other than that it worked a treat. My trains would crawl with full torque even up the incline I had on the layout. Hardest part was finding a suitable case for it so it lived "naked" for years. BMR have created a nice simple solution for us with "off the shelf" parts. Great work guys.
Many thanks
Hi Mike & Douglas, another great project I will be looking into that thanks. Regards George.
Great video. Something I was looking into. For analogue sets you get the full 12v dc voltage applied all the time and it is the current applied that varies. The pulses of current get longer as you turn the controller up which increases the speed of the motor. Hence you get a lot of torque in the motor which means it runs well at low speeds. Was thinking of using something similar to rotate a Hornby turntable. Keep up the good work.
Great video. Looked in the US and can get identical controller. And I have a few wall 12v wall plugs lying around. Thanks for a great idea. Hoping to order a box soon.
Great video and thanks for the shout out. I particularly like how quickly you have made up 3D printed enclosures for the controller, look good.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks for getting us started
Hi guys, my 2 controller housings turned up today, safe & sound. Brilliant bit of kit. Everything fits snug inside, As good or better than any brand name unit. Well done and thanks for the great customer service & fast postage. Cheers!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed them.
Mike & Douglas, Very well thought out and designed controller. I do like the speed controller. And the housing to hold the electrics.
If I were to start over, I would go Doublo with a warf shunting layout.
Congrats to you Douglas, very well explained and executed on the construction. You kept on topic brilliantly. Much thanks.
Thanks for your support
WOW! how neat is that very very cool. Great idea.
Superb video! Total beginner here, put it together in 20 mins and it worked first time. Can’t recommend highly enough
Thats great thanks, and about a third of the cost!
Hey Doug ive made one of these finally! It works a treat mate,much better than those crappy silver Hornby jobbies that come in the starter sets as well.Thanks for sharing this great idea.
@Evading Grid i have a couple of those controllers and the noise it makes the engine have is awful..their old controller the R 965 still works better.
Oddly as you say the older controllers are much better
WOW! Now this is what I call absolutely awesome, Douglas. I'm going to get myself one of these little beauties. Super video and project. Take care both of you...
Thanks John
Just discovered PWM and your well presented tutorial. Just the ticket for my micro layout rather than using my larger DCC controller. Well done guys and thanks for sharing.
Happy to help
This is a cracking controller, needed to house it in a laundry pod box for now. 7 year old daughter really enjoyed wiring this together and was really proud of the result.
Excellent, wonderful skills from a seven year old
I love this very much! I’ll definitely be getting one of these myself at some point! What size of those red and black wires are you using?
My box arrived here in Australia today. I had pre ordered the pwm unit and adapter etc. All fits snug as a bug in a box. TY guys... Awesome. Your UA-cam video made it all so easy.
Hi mate just wanted to how much the controller cost in Aussie dollars, have no idea what I need so any help would be great ,just pulled out my n scale tracks after 18 years and like 2 of these thks 👍
Send us an email to BMRNewsletter@gmail.com and we will endeavour to help
Just made my first one and it’s excellent. Already have a second case ready to build another
That's great, just wired in a double controller on my loft layout
Thank you both for a terrific channel and for bringing fun, great ideas and down to earth reality back into our hobby
Thanks a lot for your support, glad you enjoy it
Good That's an amazing video. Well done.
Just seen your video. Thanks. It's reassuring that what I'm doing is correct: I built a goods shed around my PWM controller for my n gauge box-file shunting layouts. I built some PWM circuits from scratch for my large layout - they work 'ok-ish', but I'll replace them with these units eventually. They do work nicely.
Great idea hiding the controller in a goods shed
You've done it again, an excellent video and completely amazing idea and well executed for a budget controller.
Big brands are never that cheap even 2nd hand.
Congratulations to you guys, I think I may just make one.
Thanks
This was a gem of a video to find, have already ordered the parts, as someone building a layout pretty much from scratch including recycling and upcycling a lot of stuff finding out it was simple and cheap to make a controller was a "wow" moment 👍
They are good controllers glad we could help
@@BudgetModelRailways honestly given as even second hand Hornby ones can be 15/20 + and I already have a suitable 12v DC adaptor it's basically just the PWM and I can easily fabricate a suitable box. Now my question will be is there something similar to be done to power point motors and other accessories? 😉
We produce the box if that helps. In theory point motors should be possible etc. The Hornby one is way over priced given that they are not very good
@@BudgetModelRailways oh I saw your box yes which is great btw but I'm thinking something with a wooden front and maybe a BR logo... Something bespoke made to fit my own hand lol 😉
I wish I had seen this a few days ago. Just spent £50 on 2x secondhand gaugemaster controllers. Mind you, I did my research and they are good for slow and fast running. Anyway, I had been thinking about making a controller but didn't know where to start. This is a fabulous video and this is how I shall be getting my controllers in the future! Well done, Guys.
The guagemaster ones are excellent and well worth £25 each, that's a good price for them
Indeed, that's why I bought 2. The guy had 4 available on one of the Facebook model railway trading groups, but I could only afford the 2. I would have had the 4 had I the funds available :)
Lovely! Thank you!
Just finished putting two of these together. They are at least as good as my gaugemaster Q. Very impressed.
We have found they are pretty good especially at the price
I've just got the controller built and it works great thanks
Great news thanks
Drat only bought a controller last month ! Will make one of these for next layout. Thanks . . . usual very high standard.
Many thanks
Superb!
Thank-you!
Nice vid Douglas ... have you ever used bootlace ferrules on the end of the wires, it helps stop the wire splitting and gives good contact....regards Fred
Hi firstly I have to say at 68 I am a electrical idiot,today I received The Box and while watching the tutorial I assembled the parts.It's my first venture into the model railway scene it's DC and I don't have 1 dropper in the entire set up I have 2 x 4x 4 Feet & 1 x 4 x 2 Feet in the middle built in boards.I can only say 'wow 'to your device and I will go as far to say it is better than my Guagemaster in fact 2 of these transfomers could run my whole set up so i will be buying another when your ready to take more orders.I am really over the moon with both of you guys and all the tips and how too's Keep up the great work,power to the people who cannot afford these company's prices
Thanks Robert so glad we could help, and for your kind comments. We have powered our whole lower loft layout with one controller and two wires. Give it a couple more weeks and we will be ready to take orders.
Would probably be worth putting a cable tie around the output wires just inside the box to give some strain relief and help stop the wire being pulled out of the terminal block.
very useful video.
Mike, you must be very proud of Douglas, a super video very well explained. Nice little unit pwm speed controller works great . I have built several one is powered by a rechargeable pp3 9v battery. Great for testing. Your case puts mine to shame.
Thanks, he is a good lad
Nice one Douglas...................John.
That was brilliant.
Great idea!!!!
Absolutely brilliant!! Dragons den for you two next!
We've sold 17 today alone! Mind you it will take us a while to make them all as they are a five hour print each!
A tip for anyone interested. If you want to neaten up the two holes that the track wires exit, those brass bushings that come with servos fit perfectly and prevent the wires chaffing against the sharp edges of the housing. I came up with this after realising the holes are drilled too close together to allow for brass bolts/nuts. The brass bushings don't touch each other (albeit by a whisker)! So I might still be able to squeeze some small diameter nuts and bolts through them and connect the track wires from the outside. By the way, a small drop of superglue keeps the bushings snug.
Thanks for the ideas
Another great video and so easy to follow.I am going to have a go at that,better still cant you make me one and i buy it off you lol :)
This is mind blowing! I’m trying to see if I can get these bits in New Zealand... 🤞
Try ebay?
Guess what came this morning??? Thought was 28 day wait. This arrived in 2 days lol. China prob hasnt even built my PMU never mind posted it lol. Good quality for 3D printing! Thanks and Happy Christmas to you guys.
Glad you are pleased with it, the 28days is to cover us at busy times just in case. Happy Christmas
Would be great if you could leave us a review: www.budgetmodelrailways.co.uk/reviews.html
Hi! This is a great tutorial! (You guay have excellent material in this channel! And very useful to us budget model railroaders!) I would really like to try it out and see how much better it is than my normal Hornby controller but I can’t seem to find the reference to the actual PWM board in your website... in fact, I can’t even find the container boxes for sale. Is this info no longer available?
We have such a back log of orders for boxes we have had to take them off the site for a while. If you email us BMRNewsletter@gmail.com we can see what we can do. Just search PWM controller on eBay and they will come up
This unit works really well, Thanks for sharing and for helping e save some hard earned cash.
Thanks
can't wait..just waiting on my componets to arrive
I'm unsure which electronics I should use. Is 1203BB correct?
Adam Clark
Received my box, thanks, looks great!
Once I’ve got everything connected up though, my PWM unit will only run on full speed (i.e. I have no control over the speed with the dial). Is this something I’m doing wrong, or is this just a faulty PWM unit?
Sorry if that’s a stupid question. I did a bit of modelling with my dad when very young before a long sabbatical. He’s recently persuaded me to get back into it so I’m very new to all this and struggling to get my head around the electronics especially!
It might be a faulty unit or maybe check the wiring again?
Hi I’ve built this and it’s so good, I have 2 of the pwm boards can I just wire together and use one on each track off of one power supply plug? Or would I need another power supply separately connecting both?
Thanks, you would need two.power supplies, or we make a double controller which uses a different adapter
fantastic 😁
PWM = pulse width modulation
Say you have a signal that goes "high" (say 12V) for half a second, then low (say 0V) for half a second, then repeats. That's a 50% modulation. If it was a quarter of a second on and three-quarters off, that's a 25% modulation, also known as duty-cycle. Now, imagine instead of those pulses taking a second before repeating, they take less than a milliseconds before repeating. Now, this works because to the motor that's so fast that the motor essentially feels the 50% duty cycle as 6V, 25% as 3V, 75% as 9V, &c. It's a great technique because when it's in the low part of the cycle, a transistor is turned off, and just like turning a switch off, no power flows, meaning you're not dissipating that power as heat with a high-resistance potentiometer/rheostat like old-style controllers could.
Thank you for the video. I didn't realize there were PWM controllers with built-in knobs.
Edit: You can also add a low-pass filter(s) to help "smooth" the output out to get a steady voltage.
A brilliant idea. I just ordered two cases. I will be adding a couple of nuts & bolts to connect the track leads rather than have them just exiting the case loose.
Thanks, please be aware it might take us a couple of weeks or so to get them out to you as we have a back log of orders, thanks.
All good!
Hi Guys
Great vid and very informative, I'm just about to build a medium size DC layout with loop size about 60 foot long would it be wise to say up the amps to about 5 amps or would that do more harm than good? just thinking if I run 2 trains on the same loop or use 1 controller to power both loops with that size of track? any help or advise would be great
Cheers Mark
We do make a double controller box with one power adapter if that helps
Have been in the market for a controller. I thought a 2nd hand gaugemaster at 30 quid was good value. May have to make my own using this idea
Brilliant! For us here in the States, are the multi-country power supplies listed on the Ebay page with the control module acceptable for use with the unit?
The listing on eBay has a drop down box allowing you to choose different plug types like US and EU
Just thought I'd let you know this own works off 8aa batteries we had a power cut and I'd got a8aa battery pack with on off switch and tried it it works even lets you slow or speed up absolutely brilliant obviously use it with adapter but managed to fit a male connector to battery pack and works fab
We have used several battery systems and were also pretty surprised that they worked perfectly, we are even contemplating using battery power the next time we exhibit
Excellent video… I made one….. love it !!! I did order your controller box , I have heard no reply on its status
Orders take about 28 days to despatch
This is a tutorial which deserves the name, tutorial :D.. I never saw a better tutorial on youtube.. And i watch metric ton of tutorials ^^.. Very nice.. Keep it on... Do you have a video on buying a hole set, track, loco, and everything one needs to start but second hand? Like track choise and so on.. Im in the marmet and got burned yesterday.. Bought a fleischman. Digital set.. But it wasto much for a start for me.. Around 360€ and i exchanged it for another set.. That was even bigger xD but cheaper and analog.. And guess what.. The controller in the set doesnt even work out of the box and the adapter wasnt even for that controller... I wamt to start on a very tight budget now and get everything 2. Hand.. Got tipps:)?
Thanks for the comment, and sorry you have had such a bad start to the hobby. I'm guessing if it's Fleischmann you bought then maybe you are not in the UK? I've found eBay pretty good in the uk, and we have a couple of excellent second hand shops. We have done videos on buying second hand track and locos which might help. If you bought the set from a shop I would take it back and get your money back? The best advice when buying second hand is to buy something basic and cheap and work from there, we bought a basic Hornby DC set which got us started. I believe Piko make a basic starter range for instances? When buying second hand be patient and shop around the bargains are out there.
@@BudgetModelRailways Thank you for your quick reply :D .. i already went to a 2. hand shop and i bought an old KLEINBAHN Controller (its an old austrian brand, in Austria you can mostly get stuff that is build here or in Germany .. they all very old fashioned) i paid 25 € for it and 20€ for a nice steam loco (which is a bargain around here) and 2€ per wagon ^^.. so iam pretty pleased with that .. but i cant get my money back on the set i bought earlier, because in Austria they usually not giving u ur money back .. they give u a credit cupon with the money u paid on it so you can buy other stuff in their shop.. i hate such a practice.. iam a trained salesman and i think a customer should get his money back . but thats how they roll in austria .. maybe i exchange it for a working one and sell it on ebay.. or sell just this one along with the invoice so the buyer can exchange it .. or maybe the buyer already has another controller.. lets see..
anyway, i start building my shunting layout today.. befor i found ur cahnnel i didn't even know what shunting is XD .. here the model railroaders build just massive expensive layouts and everything else is Kiddie stuff for them .. XD .. they didn't even understand me as i told them about shunting and switching, why i would build a layout just end 2 end and no run around .. but thats a story for another day .. hope to stay in touch with you .. all the best for 2019 .. Alex
Oh happy day.. I finaly convinced the shopowner to give me my money back.. It took quite a while though but it came trough.. Adter that i went to the 2. Hand store nearby and bought some nice track and wagons for 40€ in total xD.. 1€ per point and trackpiece.. But locos are redicolous expensive even 2. Hand.. Sometime i find a decent ru ning loco for 20€ but often they are priced around 70-150€.. I envy u in the uk for your prices.. Cant find a nice dieselloco for shunting :( but i keep on searching :).. Wanted to let u know that everything is in order now ^^
I too use PWM to make an DC trains controller. I use an 24 volts PWM to enable me run trains from N to G scale. All I need to do is change to power adaptor suitable for the scale of the train. 12 volts DC for N and HO scale, 24 volts DC for G scale.
I am from Chennai India.
@@c.bmalhotra1530 always good to here from the railway modellers in india
@@BudgetModelRailways
I use 15 volts DC - 2 amps power adaptor to run older model trains like Hornby Doublo products.
excellent really pleased
Thats great thanks
I've just bought a pair of connectors on ebay (1 male, 1 female): the same as the little green and black plug that comes with the mains adaptor, so that I can connect my track wires up without having to use a screwdriver everytime . Under £2.00 and with free postage! Just search for 12v connectors.
Brilliant controller thanks guys and a real nifty custom made box to house it. Whats not to like!
maybe the under extrusion or whatever it is making the layers separate on his controller box?
Fantastic video well done
Question
Do you ship to Australia
And are you planning on selling these as complete built up units and if so at what price.
Thanks
Nick
Australia
We have shipped quite a few to Australia, sent one only yesterday. We have no plans to sell as complete units, it's easier and cheaper for people to get the items direct.
A “WOW” design. Well done guys 👍. Perhaps consider supplying the controller complete assembled.
The laws on electronics at the moment restrict the sales of electronic components unless you are a registered electronics trader and have all your products tested before they can be sold.
Check online, as I reckon there will probably be an online course, which should be cheap enough. I know there is one for the Portable Appliance Test (PAT). Most people are scared by the whole PAT thing when, in fact, in my TV studio, legally, we only had 2 pieces of equipment that needed PAT certification... and they were in the kitchen. Basically, other than double insulated items, most items only need a visual check. PAT providers will tell you they need to check everything with a plug and, at around £1.50, they are on a nice little earner. PAT for me would have cost £hundreds had I not checked with HSE first! Then we did our own DVD based course for £30! Might all be worth looking into, time allowing.
Thanks for the info
A pleasure
Well now that's very good news yes I want the details of the parts and box. I,ve been working on a controller with old large transformers due to requiring 3amp supply for triangle locos. Will your setup powerfully enough for triangle locos? Excellent video thanks
The old Triang locos do need some power agreed. I've not tested the few I have however the Hornby 125 which would only pull two coaches before will pull four with this controller so it's possible? All the info is in the video with links or have a hunt on eBay . Basically you need a PWM 12v controller and a suitable adapter plus our box, or make your own?
Been looking for a controller to replace my awful horn by one. Just ordered the components, may order your box for it later. Would be good if you could clip casing together, could even evolve in to building blocks for limitless expansion
Hi, The boxes can in theory be glued together to make a run of them. We are experimenting now with making double controller housings and maybe even triple.
I'd be very interested to see you try this PWM unit with lower input voltages, maybe 6-9V this would give some protection to the motors from the voltage spikes. 9 v should be more than enough for modern motors. Pulse width modulation delivers the full available voltage in spikes to the motors and varies the time between these spikes to vary speed. As such there will be some heating in the motor.
From what I can gather (I'm no electronics expert) this PWM controller operates in a similar way to how the Westinghouse Chopper controllers work on some of the more modern Blackpool trams (Centenary and Jubilee cars) which deliver full DC voltage to the traction motors but turn it on and off so quickly that it effectively limits the perceived voltage the motors are getting.
This controller should also work off batteries for exhibition use as the input is DC. As has already been said though, something between the controller and say a car battery would be needed to bring the voltage down a bit. I wouldn't trust those wall-wart transformers either as they often don't give an exact 12V. A bit less would be OK, but more could be bad news for motors.
Great idea though!
Chopper control was fitted to the 455s some years back as well, you are quite right its the same principle. Really it needs to be done with care to avoid motor damage. I hope BMR will do a test with a lower voltage and let us know how this performs
Nice. I actually ordered the controllers and might get the 3 D box. WARNING! Not all wall warts are the same. Some have the positive on the outside of the round barrel plug. Some it is on the inside. This will effect what is positive or negative going into the controller. I got a meter and found the polarity was backwards.
read your artical, bought the bits, found a box to mount it all in & it works fine. i've had no previous experiance of building anything like this. only one question how do I order one of your proper boxes?
Hi George. We have taken them off the website for the moment because we are too busy with our OO Gauge range. Email us BMRNewsletter@gmail.com and we can send you an invoice via paypal
Excellent video would this be ok to use with a small N gauge dc layout ?
I have used it on a small N Gauge DC layout with no issues
I've ordered the electronics to make two of these and will order the enclosures when they are back in stock. I do suspect, however, that you could run even slower using half-wave rectification, but this unit will only work with full-wave (unless someone knows better).
Drop us an email to BMRNewsletter@gmail.com and we will add you to the waiting list. Sorry for the delay, it's only a hobby and we can only print a few a week, they take 7 hours, and we have over 30 on the waiting list
Hi I believe that if on the output cables, make a knot just inside the case before cables go out, would eventually avoid unfasening a cable from inside the if any pulling is done by mistake
Good idea
Or a cable tie/zip tie around both wires.
Another super simple idea by you guys and well explained by Doug, its almost idiot proof.
Thanks Frank
Just wired mine up to my Kato unitrack n gauge. Its working fine. Seems as good as the Kato controller, which I really like. But they cost about £75!!
I've used mine with kato unitrack and as you say it's great
Hi bought two and just built first one, my findings so far, switch has some heat shrink which needs removing also no washers in either pack nothing to do with BMR obviously! I found the apertures for the power lead and switch needed a little enlarging easy enough, also found it easier to fit input and then attach wires with a little help from tweezers to locate into the connectors, not trying it out until I’ve found a washer. Thoroughly enjoyed constructing this and only waited 55 years to start modelling! I wonder if the second one could have piggybacked from the power supply?
No2 done the gap for the washer is very slim so will be a little fiddly. Again not BMR product issue. Have realised my plans only have three tiny flaws, having a second hand layout, some second hand locos and diy power supplies that’s three things that might not work and I have to find out which one it is!
Our first exhibition layout started with a second hand layout, 99% of our track, locos and rolling stock is second hand and we have sold nearly 500 controllers with no problems so you should be fine. Have fun
@@BudgetModelRailways fact sheets
Well I know where I'll be getting my controller from! A quality controller for a tenner? I've got a lot of time for that.
Does it hurt the motors of locos cuz the standard hornby controller has pwm and it makes a bad sounding growl and I think it damages the motors. Does this controller do that?
I would be surprised if the Hornby is pwm, they are awful, equally I don't any controller damages motors that would be unlikely. We have extensively used these with no issues
Can you instead use a N-Channel Mosfet & Potentiometer connect that to the railroad. I believe that would work but I don't think that would be worth it. But a little bit funner. I think I might use thing to control mine now. Also I forgot to mention that you could use a H-bridge to reverse the polarity.
I’m new to all this wiring malarkey. What thickness or type of wire do I need to join the bits together?
hi loving the channel , just what i have been looking for , one question is ,iam just trying to get into N gauge , would this be ok to you on a N guage layout , as it would be perfrct if it dose ,
Thanks, I've used mine on N guage with no issues at all if that helps
@@BudgetModelRailways that's great I will get making .
The links for the equipment appear to have gone. Any chance they could be re-linked?
Hi - EXCELLENT VIDEO! I have just ordered your dual unit controller case :-) ...and also all the electronics required from Amazon. Just a question for you and/or other users of this particular controller system. Given that short circuits are quite common with model railways, what's the easiest way to add some form of short circuit protection? And also ...have other users of this exact same system experienced any problems with this PWM unit with motor overheating / damage with, lets say, Hornby O-4-O locos made within the last 10 years using the "China" can motor?
There is no need for short protection, this is a DCC issue, we have tried shorting and have been unable to short the controller in any way. In any case a short only stops the loco and again loco damage to shorting is a DCC issue. Not sure how a controller could damage a loco motor? I have run Hornby 0-4-0 extensively, as I have all my locos with no issues at all. Hope this helps. We have sold over 1k with no negative feedback
@@BudgetModelRailways Tks so much for your encouraging response. I gather that PWM-based controller systems have been discussed and debated a lot on forums (mostly a few years ago) which is why I checked on current thinking. The critics (mostly electrical guru types) said then that PWM voltage spikes would cause motors run much hotter with possible damage. Thanks for reassuring me. KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK ! VERY HELPFUL.
...also I think I read that most if not all DCC loco modules utilise the PWM technology as well ...which suggests all is OK :)
@@madeinyorkshire52 happy to help
Anyone considering building /buying one of these using the excellent BMR box might like to first watch my video (recorded 30 Jan 2022) with a few pointers and tips. Link is: ua-cam.com/video/Vvx-S0mxx8U/v-deo.html
Nice vid. Plenty of potential. How many Amps does this output. I would definitely want to put a 1A fuse on the output regardless.
Not sure as we don't supply the electronic components. I do know that we have not had any issues, we have tried everything to short or blow them with no success, and have used them extensively. I've never seen fuses on the output of any controller's so that's a new one to me
@@BudgetModelRailways normally there is inbuilt circuit protection and maybe an electronic fuse. At this price point with such a rudimentary PWM circuit I wouldn't assume it has either, so me personally would just play safe. An inline fuse holder only costs around £1 on AliExpress and the glass fuse even less. Small price against £150 loco's going pop. Just my two cents. Great work all the same 👍
I’ve got two of your boxes now with modules fully installed and working perfectly - very pleased! However a question for anyone - do you know if any damage to the modules will occur if the output is ever short-circuited? I am just laying down the track of my very first railway layout - trying to make sure I’ve got insulated rail joiners where needed on electrofrog narrow gauge points; however if I get any wrong I don’t want my controller going up in smoke :( perhaps someone could advise if that’s protected in the module? I realise wrong input voltage polarity might damage the unit but it’s only the output I’m concerned about.
We have tried everything we can to short the output with no success, so shirts should not be a problem. In any case shorts blowing controllers and locos is a DCC issue not DC. A shorted loco on DC just stops moving.
@@BudgetModelRailways Thanks so much - you guys are the best! I absolutely love watching your videos; keep up the great work both of you.
@@madeinyorkshire52 thanks, anything we can do to help just ask
I've been wanting to make a PWM controller for a while now, this looks so much more convenient than what I'd originally planned! Does it have any sort of short circuit/overload protection?
We have tested it rigourously and it doesn't need it.
@@BudgetModelRailways Perfect, thank you! I figured you would have
The issue with using PWMs is that they don't actually moderate voltage, rather they send a series of short pulses. In effect what they do is turn the motor of the trains on or off a a varying rate -whenever the motor is on, it is operating at the full 12 volts. This can lead to damage to motors over time and may also cause shaky movement
Though it may cost slightly more, I believe it is certainly worth investing a little more into a controller that does not use PWMs. They can usually be found on eBay for a good price.
Whats this like with older hornby/triang items as if it works well then I will create my own
Not sure about Triang but it works great on older Hornby. Our 125 which would only pull itself and one coach now pulses three coaches!
Hi, am I being blind or is the link for the parts not in the description nor on your website? Looking forward to making a few up!
Just run my loco on battery as all sockets in use charging phones etc still going strong I don't know how long batteries will last but hey its nice to know if you need to use batteries you can
Would it be possible to put a double or triple moulding for the remote ??
To be honest it's just as easy to just use two mounted next to each other.
This is a great idea and another great video. I just recently bidded on an R914 Train Controller by Hornby that is an older 1980's variant as I am not impressed with the inferior and very weak Hornby R8250 that is included with all new DC train sets these days. Just out of curiosity. Would these controllers be able to handle the current draw of a locomotive with a 40 unit freight train on a long test loop? I thought I would ask because the model train is going to put a high load on the controller in question and the more current hungry models like the Heljan Class 58 has tripped out the R8250 that I used to own before in the past. So I thought I would ask before having a go and making a train controller like this one :).
Even the older Hornby R911 was more powerful than the R8250 that was a common Hornby train set controller with a 14v 1.1amp output. One of those R911 controllers came in the 1987 Hornby R777 High Speed Train Set that I have just recently reviewed as I am going to review older model trains to try and persuade more people to come into the hobby even if it means starting off with an old secondhand train set as one in good condition can be a good starting point.
All the best.
If you did your homework you would find that it provides 3A 80W.
@@daveday5507 Aye what ever man. I ain't biting the bait.
@@BritishRail60062 Even a thirsty 'O' gauge loce won't draw 3A.
@@daveday5507 I will take your word for it mate because I am not tech savvy on this kind of thing. I just run model trains and enjoy them but some of the train set controllers sadly do not bode well with my more power hungry models and often trip out. Luckily though my Kato controller can just about handle anything I use on the track which is grand in my opinion.
All the best
Ash.
Controllers seem to vary so much, it's a headache