It's official. I'm a Patreon now. You're one of only two channels I currently contribute to. I figured as much banter that I throw your way, maybe you should receive some compensation for it. ha ha. I will hit you up a little later to pique your engineer brain for some rather simple questions, though. I hope you don't mind. I bet you guessed it's regarding an S2A. Ugh!
I just saw that and thank you. Impeccable timing as I'm working on an idea to thank my current handful of Patrons later this summer. What's going on with your S2A?
David Hancock Ugh! Double Ugh!! After getting my S2A shipped from Japan in not as good of condition as I thought it would be, I decided to disassemble the focus screen thinking it was just one piece of glass, trying to back out the boogered screw heads. There was something that resembled white lithium grease sandwiched between the focusing plates, which ended up smearing as I couldn't quite get the rest of it cleaned off. Then I forgot the order and orientation of the plates. When I was able to take it out with the first roll of 120 film for a test run, I discovered the out-of-focus condition you mentioned with the mirror angle, but not before dumping a 200mm lens in the bay where I was setting up to shoot an aircraft carrier museum docked there. I won't repeat the expletive phrase I screamed at the top of my lungs. I'm sure I'm leaving out some minor details, but that's the gist of it. Not sure if I should try getting another camera in better condition; eBay is quite the trash receptacle, not knowing the true definition of "like new," "mint," excellent+++++," etc. At least with KEH something purchased as mediocre is actually in pretty damn good condition, actually near mint is my experience with them. Maybe I shod stick with my plethora of 35mm cameras. Anyway, how's that for a story. I guess I've got one up on you dropping bodies and lenses.
Oh dang. That's a series of rough events. I don't think I took apart the focus screen stack on mine, but the textured surface should face AWAY from the glass on the bottom of the stack. Here's an article that goes into better detail about screen disassembly and light seal replacement: goroshilov.com/en/bronica-s2a-focusing-problems/ I have no idea what the white stuff was. Did you use any cleaning agents on the focusing screen? If you used rubbing alcohol, that can wipe off white because it dissolves the plastic Fresnel. For the focus, you may be able to compensate for it with the ground glass placement. If not, remove the ground glass (again) and then you can more easily remove the four screws that hold the mirror in place. The top frame over the mirror lift up and you can then remove the mirror and replace the foam with some paper tape, the adhesive side of some post-its, or whatever. Be sure not to use a cheap masking tape as the adhesive can seep through the paper and that will ruin the mirror where they touch. The strips of tape only need to be about as big as a postage stamp cut into 1/4-width strips. Then you just need to rebuild the height of the foam. Adhesive-backed felt MIGHT work, but I think that's too thick. I can definitely sympathize with the lens drop. I had a strong wind knock over my LX and 28mm SMC-M 2.8. The camera landed on the lens and that was the end of it. At least the camera survived. eBay is a mixed bag. I've never had an issue with Japanese sellers. They tend to be pretty good. I have a few that I buy from mostly, though, having previously had good experiences with them. But KEH is always reliable and good. I would never discourage you from shooting an S2A, or medium-format in general. It's a much different experience than 35mm.
I have a love hate relationship with this camera. My dad bought an S2A somewhere around 1970 and I eventually took it. This camera is loud and heavy and a little quirky but it is so rewarding when you nail your shot. Thanks for posting.
Wow, what a coincidence. I decided to look for the S2(A) on a photography fair this Sunday so I looked for a review and there I have one, freshly posted! I can't thank you enough for this very informative video!! Off to part 2 and 3 now :)
14:40 Bronica's tilt/shift bellows was an ingenious device. Because the minimum thickness of the bellows unit was identical with the helical unit, you could focus right up to infinity with the regular (i.e. helicoid-less) lenses.
Another superb video, I 'only' have the ETRSi but it’s a very firm second favourite in my cameras behind my Zorki 4K. I do enjoy this sort of content, I might not have every camera but they are all very interesting so it’s a definite thumbs up from me. Thank you David.
10:02 This small bayonet mount is for the waist-level TTL exposure meter finder. You mount a coupling dial here to send the shutter-speed information to the TTL finder via coiled cable. It was really an unwieldy contraption. I don't think the mount is designed for hand grips because it looks too weak for that purpose, but I may be wrong.
@ 10:32 the accessory is a light meter, similar to the one on Hasselblads and the Rollei 6008 series, This (Rollei) did have a grip associated with the side accessory, like the film cannon c 300 has ( side handle, as they call it).
excellent and heavily informational video. Thank you! I recently purchased a bronica EC and i find the lack of bronica content on youtube severely lacking. the s2a and ec are close enough where i am learning the majority about my camera from this. thank you again.
Thank you! From a use perspective, they're really close. I think, not having had an EC, that the biggest difference is the light meter and three split mirror on the EC. They're really nice cameras, though. I still love shooting the S2A.
Easily the best information on the Bronica S2a out there -- at least in video format. Thank you for going into the confusing details regarding lens mounts.
@@DavidHancock actually just picked up an S2A with the 150mm 3.5 and the 80mm 2.4. Apparently the 2.4 is well regarded after the Nikon issue. Lucky me, I guess.
@@DavidHancock Wow. My example is flawless. The last owner had been using it as a makeshift paperweight for 30 years until it finally found itself in my hands. Actually, it was his fathers and he had no appreciation for cameras.
Great video. I just bought a meant C2 this week off eBay for under $400. I also got an original leather case for it and some filters. First thing I did was take off that annoying plastic strap I gave the camera once over. Everything works smoothly. Having no original experience with the Bronica I was a little freaked out by why I couldn’t snap off the shutter without film. I figured out you need to have film in the camera for the shutter to work unless you put it on double exposure then you could take a picture to see if the shutter works. Sure it’s loud and mechanical but it will never need batteries and if you know what you’re doing it’s not hard to set an aperture or F stop. I specifically looked for C2 because I have no intention of changing backs. I like the fact that the film was inside the camera and I shoot one roll at a time. I also like the lines of the camera without the interchangeable back. It’s a heavy little tank but I am enjoying every minute of using it.
Thank you. So you got hold of a Flektogon made specifically for use on a Bronica , by whoever. Yes it seems these were rare and can’t be found on the 2nd hand market. Too bad, cause I used to have one on a P6 and took great photos with it. Would have loved to have one for the Bronica.
I still have my S2a, in which I started out in using the S model back when I was using it when I was attending City College , and then I got the S2A as the Flash Synch is 1/40 for flash, and now in 2020 I dusted it out, and decided to get lenses right now I have the 75mm 2.8, and then later I got the 105 lens shutter lens as when I use it in Art School, In Which that all the lenses that I have NO FUNGUS and NO HAZE - Knock on Wood. Now in 2020 after seeing the other S2A's on You tube that I clean out my Bronica, and went on line and got the 50mm 3.5, and then 135mm 3.5 ALL Nikkors. I was thinking of getting the 150mm Zenza lens but after looking the 135mm as I think that I will get it later.. But now I will be shooting more film with this baby, more street, and landscapes. I also have a 645 back, and wish that Fuji would bring back Peel Apart film again to shoot instant print film, but I am still praying that Polaroid in Holland would bring back type 669, 679, and 667. The sad thing is that I gave up my darkroom when my landlady seen it, and now I am reverting to Film scanning but the results that I seen is like shooting RAW on 120 film... Along with my other 120 models that I have 2 TLR's, a ANSCO Reflex 6x6 that is the Massive model from the late 1940's-1950's, and a 1933 FOTH TLR 6x6 that has a Focal Plane Shutter, and then 3 of my Range Finders, a 1933 Plaubel Makina German model II 6x9, and Zeiss Ikonta 6x6 1938, and a 1969 Graflex XL 6x9. And yes I have my 35mm Nikon's, and Canon's, and Zeiss Contax, and my collection of Holgas. Love your Video
Nice and thank you! These are great to shoot with for sure. And they still hold up. Not sure what your landlady's issue is. My landlord knows that I have a full film processing setup here, and my landlord before that did, too. Neither cared in the slightest.
Great videos. Thank you. I own one of these cameras purchased used around 1980. It's been retired for many years. I'd like to revive it and am trying to figure out how to clean the viewfinder. Have been inside with lens cleaner fluid and papers but still having trouble getting it as clean as I would like. Any tips would be great! Thanks again.
Another amazing thing about this camera is that the mirror doesn't goes up. It goes down! This way, short focal lenses can have the firsts elements near the focal plane. To do that, it has a second courtain system that covers the ligth from the screen.
David, can you recommend a reputable camera shop to perform a CLA on my Bronica S2a? I’ve had it 6 or so months with no issues other than me repairing the infinity focus. But because I have no idea of it’s history, I’m concerned about the state of its lubrication. I live in the Pacific Northwest. Thank you.
I wish I could. I don't know who repairs these right now. I might check KameraStore or ask the Photrio forum. I suspect someone there will know who is repairing these.
Hi David, excellent content as always. Do you perhaps have a link to buy the 57mm copal adapter? If not is there some way to make one myself perhaps? Thanks in advance!
Try looking for modular macro extension tubes for the SLR mounts. These have mine flanges that can be removed from the tubes. Most of those are 57mm. Sony A are a bit bigger, but I think Pentax K and Nikon F were both 57mm last time I needed to buy them (a few years ago.)
Hey David, I really appreciate all the work you put into these videos! I’ve been considering getting an S2A for the last handful of months but I always get stuck wondering if I should get a C2 instead so I come back to your overview. You mentioned that the later C2’s are more on par with the S2A in terms of reliability, and I wanted to ask why that is? Also, would you know the range of serial numbers that the more reliable C2’s have? I know this video came out a while ago, so if you see this then I appreciate any help!
Thank you! So I like the design of the C2 more. I would have gotten that if my S2A hadn't been less money because I honestly wanted the C2. But the S2A has two advantages -- the hardened gears and swappable film backs. For me the internal improvements make it better than the C2 today (and TTBOMK no improved C2A was made). And yes I do see all my comments and replay to almost every one of them.
Yes the S2 sheared its gears when the operator was to enthusiastic when advancing the film. This was because the gears were made from brass instead of the later camera models being made of stainless steel!
Thanks for this video. I picked up an S2A and did the usual foam replacement under the viewfinder and mirror. The focus isn't perfect but seems good enough. There was a small light leak in a few shots from my test roll, so I replaced/added some foam to seal the film back. My latest concern is that the base of the film advance knob scrapes/digs into the body as I wind it. It's not terrible, but definitely noticeable (I can hear it and see it). There is a ring of exposed metal where the black paint has scraped off the knob. So far it still winds and cocks... but it seems to have gotten worse (or maybe I'm just noticing it more now?). Not sure why this happens or what I can do about it. Have you had any experience with this issue?
@@DavidHancock Yeah, a strange thing. I've added a photo to my flickr here www.flickr.com/photos/78884755@N02/50048582811/in/dateposted-public/ Please see the photo description for more details. Thanks for having a look!
@@DavidHancock Update: I removed the winding knob (by removing the center screw using spanner wrench) and saw that the black ring which holds the knob in place was sinking slightly because the black ring is not held firmly in place by the metal pins. See here if you'd like www.flickr.com/photos/78884755@N02/50051676973/in/dateposted-public/ Not the most elegant fix, and the knob still makes a bit of contact, but it seems to be better now. Not sure if this is a design flaw or just something weird on my copy. Anyway, now that I've seen the inside, I'm not as worried about this causing any significant problems besides the ring of paint that was scraped off.
Oh interesting. It looks like someone dropped it on that side at some point. The good news is that though that won't be pretty and though it may be slightly harder to advance it shouldn't affect the camera. But it looks like your fix might do the trick about getting it back into alignment and working again. These are pretty robust so getting it properly aligned with a fix like yours ought to keep it going for years.
I just bought one from eBay and I don’t have film yet but when I wine the lever so that I can press down the shutter button, as I twist the winding lever and it comes to a stop my shutter button still won’t fire unless I force the winding lever a bit more which then makes a ugly clicking sound and feeling then I’m able to press down the shutter button, any ideas?
As in more than one full rotation? That would be normal. If you crank it until it "thunks" into place and then have to do it again, that would not be normal.
@@DavidHancock is more than one full rotation. I crank until "thunks" but, there is more tension to turn the crank, two or three time to activate the shutter this happens random. Sorry for my English isn't my language
@@DavidHancock when i turn the crank a complete cycle the "thunk" sounds but sometimes I have to turn once or twice to block the advance of the crank. I thought that the advance of the crank is done one complete cycle to activate the shutter, not two or three times to do it
I like that this video is fairly recent. I was just browsing through eBay and see a Zenza Bronica SQ model and was wondering what the difference is with SQ and s2,c2? I'm a bit intimidated by the blur or out of focus some mentioned about this type of camera though.
The SQ is a newer model and has a leaf shutter in the lens. They are often preferred by Bronica users who want a newer 6X6 camera. Here's a Camerapedia page on them that explains the different models. I've been looking for an SQ-B, but any of the models are a good choice: camera-wiki.org/wiki/Bronica_SQ
Hi David! one question. The nikkor P have clicks on the aperture rings? my lens doesn't (have lines on down to the numbers) i think it's the early version
I have not. I've shot 6X7 on the Pentax 6X7 MLU and 67II as well as the RB67 and RB67 Pro S. I tend to think of Bronicas as competing with the best, so it's hard for me to imagine the GS-1 would be anything other than pleasing and good.
Hi Dave, my Zenza has the serial number CB 939xx yet the winder is the same as yours, it also has the butterfly strap lugs on it.Two questions, is there any other easy way to check if it's an S2 or an S2A and how do you get the strap off?
i checked out that link (I think) and it sort of said it's not but all evidence points to it being an S2A. I just thought you should know as you said in your video that the numbers for the S2A start at 100,000. I don't think that's true. I also found another discussion group where a chap had a 5 digit serial number that started with 9 and was identified as a S2A. ps, there is a mis-identified S2A on ebay at the moment - id'd as an S2.
This videos are helpful, but the insane contrast of the tabletop segments make them kind of hard to watch. Not sure if that's a lighting or camera issue.
Thank you. It's the lighting. I should have grabbed a different backdrop color, which would have helped. The current batch of these were all filmed on white. The next batch will be on a mid-blue.
excellent videos on this camera I have a bronica S and I have all this extra components in a beautiful leather case and was wondering how much they typically sell for
Hi David, I come for asking help again! I received a lovely offer from a local seller for a Astro Berlin 150mm f1.8 lens, is there anyway I could mount it onto the s2？ And what’s the name of the microtube you use as the adapter for 4x5 lens to bronica？
Maybe. The key is what mount is the lens in, do you know? I think that's a 6X6 lens (if it's the Pentacon Six version, that is,) but I've also seen photos of it as a C lens, and in other mounts that I can't readily identify. I am, admittedly, not an expert on Astro Berlin, except to know their reputation as having made great lenses. Does it look like this? www.pinterest.com/pin/862580134850105915/ or this? www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/astro-berlin-150mm-f1-pan-tachar-lens-1778450358 If the answer is yes then when you should do is tell the seller to sell it to me for half of what he wants from you. Just kidding, of course. I would think that yes you can, however, it won't be an f/1.8. The throat on the S2's helical mount is 57mm, so even if the lens were mounted optimally (not likely) on the S2, you'd get no faster than an f/2.6. Now, that's fine and still PLENTY fast for a 150mm lens, but you'd lose the wide-open image character. Also, the mounting will be HARD. If the lens is 150mm from the aperture (typical of how these are measured) then you have to have the lens mounted so that the aperture 48.3mm from the lens mount (not the front of the helical, the large bayonet mount.) That means that you'll have very little space, maybe a couple of centimeters, to rig up a mount that will attach to the focusing helical's 57mm thread. Another issue is what mount it's in natively. If it's a Pentacon six that has a register distance of 74.1mm. The S2A is 101.7mm (not including the focus helicoid.) A Pentacon Six lens on a Bronica will only focus to about as far away as five feet. Honestly, what I'd do is a different take. Pick up a speed graphic in 2X3 or 4X5 with a focal plan shutter. Have a custom lens board made, and use the lens on large format. It's a WAY different experience but you'll get a lot more out of the lens. You may not fill the entire film plane with image but you'll get to play around with the lens in a lot of creative and interesting ways that the Bronica won't allow.
@David Hancock O M G, I don't know I could learn so much even from a reply. Thank you with all my heart! The lens looks like the one in the first link: www.pinterest.com/pin/862580134850105915/. And I did some more digging work last night, and I found this one looked almost the same (except for the aperture): www.liveauctioneers.com/item/5255403_659-astro-berlin-pan-tachar-c-23150mm There is also a picture of an adapter for Bronica in the link, which encourages me a lot. By saying "If the lens is 150mm from the aperture (typical of how these are measured) then you have to have the lens mounted so that the aperture 48.3mm from the lens mount (not the front of the helical, the large bayonet mount.) ", how does the 48.3mm come out? Neither I nor the seller could identify the name of the bayonet, and I'm confused now, how many versions of 150mm f1.8 did Astro Berlin produce? Every picture I googled is DIFFERENT...Maybe, I mean there is the possibility, many of the existing Astro Berlin lens have been modified to other mount, and cannot be restored to the native condition. And I would happily recommend you to the seller now:)
:D Thank you. So can you get a photo of the bayonet and share a link in the comment? I'm not 100% at these, especially medium-format bayonets, but I can try. So the 48.3mm. The flange focal distance on a camera is the length at which the lenses are designed to focus at infinity. Longer they focus closer -- same reason that when we focus closer with a lens the lens moves away from the camera. So let's say you have an M42 lens with the 44.46mm (I think) flange length. If you put that lens on a Nikon without correction it will only focus to about 50 or so feet because the lens has been moved away from the focal length. So let's assume we put that M42 lens on a Bronica with the 101.7mm flange length. We've more than doubled the M42 flange length so on Bronica an M42 lens could only make extreme macros. I expect none of that is news to you but I wanted to make sure we're both thinking in the same way for the Astro Berlin. The Bronica flange length (film to the mouth of the large bayonet) is 101.7mm. The Astro Berlin is 150mm. So at best you have a different from the front of the camera to the Astro Berlin of 48.3mm. That assumes that the Astro Berlin has a true focal length. An 18mm M42 lens, for instance, is not an 18mm lens -- it's a 44.46mm lens with an angle of view like an 18mm lens. So the question becomes where is the focal distance calculate from. In general, lens coal distances if they're a true focal distance are calculate from the lens' optical center. In general, that's where the light rays are most bunched and where the aperture is placed. Now, there are exceptions to that and I have at least two 4X5 lenses that break that rule and many SLR system lenses that do. But if the Astro Berlin is calculated in a standard way (which could be the case for a lens its age) then the lens would focus light 150mm behind the aperture. Here's how you verify that. Grab a metric ruler and take it with you to see the lens. Find a wall on the shop opposite the windows and ask the shop owner to kill the lights for a minute. Find a view through the windows that's at infinity focus. Infinity focus in optics is focal length * 200 (for a 150, that's 30,000mm, which is, what, 30 meters, I think? I'm American, don't judge.) Use the lens to project an image of an infinity scene onto the wall and use the ruler to figure out the distance from the rear of the lens to the wall. If that distance is more than 101.7mm, then it is possible (maybe not practical, maybe not easy, but possible) to make some kind of adapter that will work on the Bronica. Another way to test that would be to bring the Bronica. Hold the lens in front of it (again, lights off in the store) and see if you can get an infinity focus image on the focusing screen. You'll basically be free-lensing the Astro Berlin at that point. Assuming it's possible, then it's a matter of finding an adapter or making one. I make adapters doe lenses all that time (I'm working on a long-term project to build my own lenses, including complex lenses, but that's a story for another comment thread.) Mostly I make adapters for Sony E Mount, but I have adapted lenses to Bronica (a Komura 500mm f/7 and a Caltar 165mm 4X5 lens, and some meniscus lenses.) But let me know if you can get a photo of the mount and if we can identify it that might save you lots of trouble.
David Hancock Thank you David. It has been a rough day today, I don’t even have time to read and learn from your reply. I’ll get back to you with the photo of the bayonet in the weekend! Good luck!
@@DavidHancock I'm not looking for excuse, but I finally find a minute from the crazy world…… May I ask for your email? It seems I can't post any picture here. And thank you again for the knowledge, the focal length, measuring the room for adapter, etc
Hey Dude, my DoF wont work, no matter what my DoF does not work exactly ! im going crazy. :D it just do nothing when i push it. the aperture does not move, or very very slowly . So can you help me? how can i repair it or do i use it wrong?
Sounds like it does need a repair. With the lens off the camera, set the apperture to f/16. On the back of the lens is a small level. Push that and the aperture will close. If it does, it should close quickly. If the apperture does not close quickly then there's gummy lubricating oil somewhere. If the apperture blades have shiny spots or steaks, the oil is on the blades. If not, it's likely in the mechanism. If the apperture does stop down quickly then the issue is with the camera. If the lens aperture is like that requires lens disassembly and then apperture cleaning. If you're not comfortable doing that, most cameras repair shops should be able to handle that and these lenses are very simple inside.
@@DavidHancock @grün grün The DoF mechanism consists of three parts: a) the lever in the camera b) the transmission in the helicoil and c) the lever in the lens. So you have two connection points. To narrow the problem down, do the following: First detach the helicoil from the camera. Then push the DoF Button. On the right side, in the middle, there is the lever and it should move up when you press the DoF button. Second step: Have a look into the helicoil and check if the transmission arm is moving freely. Attach the Helicoil. Push the DoF button. Does the transmission arm move up? Third step: Attach the lens and push the button ... Last test: Detach the helicoil with lens from the body and push the lever by hand.
Hi david can i contact you somehow i buy bronica S2A and looks i have some light leak right now i develop film and it looks like maybe you have idea wagt is wrong if you see neg. ? thx
Sure thing. The easiest way to reach me is through here in comments. Can you upload some of the photos with light leaks and share a link here? I'll see if I can tell what's up.
Does your film advance lever also go backwards? I just got mine and everything appears to work but it seems a bit odd that I can crank the film advance backwards, it just clicks and that’s it, just checking to see if that’s normal.
David Hancock thank you, I appreciate it! There’s surprisingly not too much info out there on the S2A, but I’ve been enjoying playing around with it since it arrived today!
@@DavidHancock Hey man, just shot my first roll. I had this weird problem where I finished all 12 shots, and as I was winding the film the camera decided to cock the shutter and stop winding at the 16th frame on the counter. I thought it had finished winding and opened it up, but it turned out that it hadn't finished. Do you know by any chance why that happened? Other than that I had terrific fun scaring others with the loud shutter 🤣
@@dwpdofficial2598 There's only one back for S2s, which can swap between 120 and 220. I had it set to 120. Also for some reason it only happens on Portra 400, not ektar, not hp5.
@@ChairmanZhongXiNa nah, there’s a second, rarer kind of back that shoots 6x4.5, I have two of them on my system. Does the film back say 6x6 on the top or 6x4.5 ?
The bayonet on the shutter speed control is for the exposure metering chimney style viewfinder. Not affiliated example: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323950300126
ABSOLUTELY MANUAL..the Japanese 6 x 6 cm format equivalent of the American 4x5" Large Format Speed Graphic. I"'ve had them. Obviously, because of its loud ka- xhink of the shutter, James Bond would never have used it as a spy camera. That's its only drawback, but it DOES let you know that the shutter has opened and closed, exposing the film. As far as I'm concerned, the totally manual cameras were better for the photgrapher than the automatic cameras. They made the photographer stop for a moment and think about his exposure, while the iPhones and other camera phones, along with shutter and aperture priority cameras, didn' t do that job. You have a good camera, antique and manual or not, keep it as long as you can. I was foolish and didn't keep any of my cameras. My favorite was the Speed Graphic, so I took it apart to see how it ticks...it's still in pieces 20 years later. Thank you for the video.
Thank you! I agree that manual shooting and slower shooting are excellent disciplines for improving photography. Anyone can grab a brand-new DSLR or smartphone and burst-shoot until something looks relatively good. Not everyone can deliver a good composition with an all-manual film camera on slide stock.
It's official. I'm a Patreon now. You're one of only two channels I currently contribute to. I figured as much banter that I throw your way, maybe you should receive some compensation for it. ha ha. I will hit you up a little later to pique your engineer brain for some rather simple questions, though. I hope you don't mind. I bet you guessed it's regarding an S2A. Ugh!
I just saw that and thank you. Impeccable timing as I'm working on an idea to thank my current handful of Patrons later this summer.
What's going on with your S2A?
David Hancock Ugh! Double Ugh!! After getting my S2A shipped from Japan in not as good of condition as I thought it would be, I decided to disassemble the focus screen thinking it was just one piece of glass, trying to back out the boogered screw heads. There was something that resembled white lithium grease sandwiched between the focusing plates, which ended up smearing as I couldn't quite get the rest of it cleaned off. Then I forgot the order and orientation of the plates. When I was able to take it out with the first roll of 120 film for a test run, I discovered the out-of-focus condition you mentioned with the mirror angle, but not before dumping a 200mm lens in the bay where I was setting up to shoot an aircraft carrier museum docked there. I won't repeat the expletive phrase I screamed at the top of my lungs. I'm sure I'm leaving out some minor details, but that's the gist of it. Not sure if I should try getting another camera in better condition; eBay is quite the trash receptacle, not knowing the true definition of "like new," "mint," excellent+++++," etc. At least with KEH something purchased as mediocre is actually in pretty damn good condition, actually near mint is my experience with them. Maybe I shod stick with my plethora of 35mm cameras. Anyway, how's that for a story. I guess I've got one up on you dropping bodies and lenses.
Oh dang. That's a series of rough events.
I don't think I took apart the focus screen stack on mine, but the textured surface should face AWAY from the glass on the bottom of the stack. Here's an article that goes into better detail about screen disassembly and light seal replacement: goroshilov.com/en/bronica-s2a-focusing-problems/
I have no idea what the white stuff was. Did you use any cleaning agents on the focusing screen? If you used rubbing alcohol, that can wipe off white because it dissolves the plastic Fresnel.
For the focus, you may be able to compensate for it with the ground glass placement. If not, remove the ground glass (again) and then you can more easily remove the four screws that hold the mirror in place. The top frame over the mirror lift up and you can then remove the mirror and replace the foam with some paper tape, the adhesive side of some post-its, or whatever. Be sure not to use a cheap masking tape as the adhesive can seep through the paper and that will ruin the mirror where they touch. The strips of tape only need to be about as big as a postage stamp cut into 1/4-width strips. Then you just need to rebuild the height of the foam. Adhesive-backed felt MIGHT work, but I think that's too thick.
I can definitely sympathize with the lens drop. I had a strong wind knock over my LX and 28mm SMC-M 2.8. The camera landed on the lens and that was the end of it. At least the camera survived.
eBay is a mixed bag. I've never had an issue with Japanese sellers. They tend to be pretty good. I have a few that I buy from mostly, though, having previously had good experiences with them. But KEH is always reliable and good.
I would never discourage you from shooting an S2A, or medium-format in general. It's a much different experience than 35mm.
I have a love hate relationship with this camera. My dad bought an S2A somewhere around 1970 and I eventually took it. This camera is loud and heavy and a little quirky but it is so rewarding when you nail your shot. Thanks for posting.
Thank you. And yeah, I completely forgot to talk about the shutter and how loud it is and how insanely complex it is, too.
Shame it has no mirror lock up. Landscapes are practically useless because distant objects are less sharp when at infinity.
Wow, what a coincidence. I decided to look for the S2(A) on a photography fair this Sunday so I looked for a review and there I have one, freshly posted! I can't thank you enough for this very informative video!! Off to part 2 and 3 now :)
Thank you!
14:40 Bronica's tilt/shift bellows was an ingenious device. Because the minimum thickness of the bellows unit was identical with the helical unit, you could focus right up to infinity with the regular (i.e. helicoid-less) lenses.
Thank you! I did not know that about the focal distance.
Another superb video, I 'only' have the ETRSi but it’s a very firm second favourite in my cameras behind my Zorki 4K. I do enjoy this sort of content, I might not have every camera but they are all very interesting so it’s a definite thumbs up from me. Thank you David.
Thank you, Mark! The ETRSi is a great camera, too. I've been using the Zorki Leica clone off and on. The Zorki cameras are really underrated.
10:02 This small bayonet mount is for the waist-level TTL exposure meter finder. You mount a coupling dial here to send the shutter-speed information to the TTL finder via coiled cable. It was really an unwieldy contraption. I don't think the mount is designed for hand grips because it looks too weak for that purpose, but I may be wrong.
Thank you!
@ 10:32 the accessory is a light meter, similar to the one on Hasselblads and the Rollei 6008 series, This (Rollei) did have a grip associated with the side accessory, like the film cannon c 300 has ( side handle, as they call it).
Thank you!
excellent and heavily informational video. Thank you! I recently purchased a bronica EC and i find the lack of bronica content on youtube severely lacking. the s2a and ec are close enough where i am learning the majority about my camera from this. thank you again.
Thank you! From a use perspective, they're really close. I think, not having had an EC, that the biggest difference is the light meter and three split mirror on the EC. They're really nice cameras, though. I still love shooting the S2A.
Easily the best information on the Bronica S2a out there -- at least in video format. Thank you for going into the confusing details regarding lens mounts.
Thank you!
@@DavidHancock actually just picked up an S2A with the 150mm 3.5 and the 80mm 2.4. Apparently the 2.4 is well regarded after the Nikon issue. Lucky me, I guess.
@@jt4369 the 2.4 is incredible. I sold the two Nikkor 75mms I had after trying the 2.4.
@@DavidHancock Wow. My example is flawless. The last owner had been using it as a makeshift paperweight for 30 years until it finally found itself in my hands. Actually, it was his fathers and he had no appreciation for cameras.
Great video. I just bought a meant C2 this week off eBay for under $400. I also got an original leather case for it and some filters. First thing I did was take off that annoying plastic strap I gave the camera once over. Everything works smoothly. Having no original experience with the Bronica I was a little freaked out by why I couldn’t snap off the shutter without film. I figured out you need to have film in the camera for the shutter to work unless you put it on double exposure then you could take a picture to see if the shutter works. Sure it’s loud and mechanical but it will never need batteries and if you know what you’re doing it’s not hard to set an aperture or F stop. I specifically looked for C2 because I have no intention of changing backs. I like the fact that the film was inside the camera and I shoot one roll at a time. I also like the lines of the camera without the interchangeable back. It’s a heavy little tank but I am enjoying every minute of using it.
Nice! I personally like the look of the C more because it has uninterrupted lines. Either the C or the S are absolutely magnificent cameras.
]
My thinking is that film back light seals can't fail if they don't exist. 😇
Cool video! I have scored 2 recently - they need some TLC - but very informative indeed
Thank you!
i bought this yesterday jaja thanks David. Regards from Chile!
Thank you, Sebastian!
Great video. I see you mounted a Zeiss Flektogon 50mm lens, which isa superb lens. What kind of adaptor did you use, and are these still around?
@@bulleroth it's a nice lens. I have an entire video about it, too: ua-cam.com/video/1Rfw2DRzRZY/v-deo.html
Thank you. So you got hold of a Flektogon made specifically for use on a Bronica , by whoever. Yes it seems these were rare and can’t be found on the 2nd hand market. Too bad, cause I used to have one on a P6 and took great photos with it. Would have loved to have one for the Bronica.
I still have my S2a, in which I started out in using the S model back when I was using it when I was attending City College , and then I got the S2A as the Flash Synch is 1/40 for flash, and now in 2020 I dusted it out, and decided to get lenses right now I have the 75mm 2.8, and then later I got the 105 lens shutter lens as when I use it in Art School, In Which that all the lenses that I have NO FUNGUS and NO HAZE - Knock on Wood. Now in 2020 after seeing the other S2A's on You tube that I clean out my Bronica, and went on line and got the 50mm 3.5, and then 135mm 3.5 ALL Nikkors. I was thinking of getting the 150mm Zenza lens but after looking the 135mm as I think that I will get it later.. But now I will be shooting more film with this baby, more street, and landscapes. I also have a 645 back, and wish that Fuji would bring back Peel Apart film again to shoot instant print film, but I am still praying that Polaroid in Holland would bring back type 669, 679, and 667. The sad thing is that I gave up my darkroom when my landlady seen it, and now I am reverting to Film scanning but the results that I seen is like shooting RAW on 120 film... Along with my other 120 models that I have 2 TLR's, a ANSCO Reflex 6x6 that is the Massive model from the late 1940's-1950's, and a 1933 FOTH TLR 6x6 that has a Focal Plane Shutter, and then 3 of my Range Finders, a 1933 Plaubel Makina German model II 6x9, and Zeiss Ikonta 6x6 1938, and a 1969 Graflex XL 6x9. And yes I have my 35mm Nikon's, and Canon's, and Zeiss Contax, and my collection of Holgas. Love your Video
Nice and thank you! These are great to shoot with for sure. And they still hold up.
Not sure what your landlady's issue is. My landlord knows that I have a full film processing setup here, and my landlord before that did, too. Neither cared in the slightest.
hi, i have a question, i cant shot. i need the camera roll? you can help me?
i dont understand how to open behind
Video 2 shows how to open the camera and load the film.
Great videos. Thank you. I own one of these cameras purchased used around 1980. It's been retired for many years. I'd like to revive it and am trying to figure out how to clean the viewfinder. Have been inside with lens cleaner fluid and papers but still having trouble getting it as clean as I would like. Any tips would be great! Thanks again.
Thank you!
Another amazing thing about this camera is that the mirror doesn't goes up. It goes down! This way, short focal lenses can have the firsts elements near the focal plane. To do that, it has a second courtain system that covers the ligth from the screen.
Very true and the engineering behind that is also incredible.
David, can you recommend a reputable camera shop to perform a CLA on my Bronica S2a? I’ve had it 6 or so months with no issues other than me repairing the infinity focus. But because I have no idea of it’s history, I’m concerned about the state of its lubrication. I live in the Pacific Northwest. Thank you.
I wish I could. I don't know who repairs these right now. I might check KameraStore or ask the Photrio forum. I suspect someone there will know who is repairing these.
Does the shutter work without being loaded with film. I have just bought a second-hand camera.
It should. Try it without a film holder on the back of the camera, too. It should work a-okay without a film holder mounted.
Thanks for making this video! This helped me a lot for my first use. Do you know if the Bronica S2 has a mirror lock up for long exposures?
Thank you! I don't think the S2 did, it may not have been introduced until the EC.
Hi David, excellent content as always. Do you perhaps have a link to buy the 57mm copal adapter? If not is there some way to make one myself perhaps? Thanks in advance!
I do not. I think the Russian dude who used to make them stopped.
@@DavidHancock will these work? Believe they're also available on Amazon:
rafcamera.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Bronica+s&=1
I’ve been trying to locate a similar extension tube set without success. Any ideas? Thanks!
I found the tubes on eBay, 57mm thread.
@@DavidHancock Yes that’s where I’ve been searching. Apparently my search parameters are not finding any extension tubes with 57mm threads. 🙁
Try looking for modular macro extension tubes for the SLR mounts. These have mine flanges that can be removed from the tubes. Most of those are 57mm. Sony A are a bit bigger, but I think Pentax K and Nikon F were both 57mm last time I needed to buy them (a few years ago.)
@@DavidHancock Found the Nikon F mount. Perfect! Only $14 Thanks so much for helping a new subscriber. I really appreciate it!
Hey David, I really appreciate all the work you put into these videos! I’ve been considering getting an S2A for the last handful of months but I always get stuck wondering if I should get a C2 instead so I come back to your overview. You mentioned that the later C2’s are more on par with the S2A in terms of reliability, and I wanted to ask why that is? Also, would you know the range of serial numbers that the more reliable C2’s have? I know this video came out a while ago, so if you see this then I appreciate any help!
Thank you! So I like the design of the C2 more. I would have gotten that if my S2A hadn't been less money because I honestly wanted the C2. But the S2A has two advantages -- the hardened gears and swappable film backs. For me the internal improvements make it better than the C2 today (and TTBOMK no improved C2A was made). And yes I do see all my comments and replay to almost every one of them.
@@DavidHancock Ohh I see, it's more of an aesthetic appeal. Thanks for clearing that up!
Yes the S2 sheared its gears when the operator was to enthusiastic when advancing the film.
This was because the gears were made from brass instead of the later camera models being made of stainless steel!
Thanks for this video. I picked up an S2A and did the usual foam replacement under the viewfinder and mirror. The focus isn't perfect but seems good enough. There was a small light leak in a few shots from my test roll, so I replaced/added some foam to seal the film back.
My latest concern is that the base of the film advance knob scrapes/digs into the body as I wind it. It's not terrible, but definitely noticeable (I can hear it and see it). There is a ring of exposed metal where the black paint has scraped off the knob. So far it still winds and cocks... but it seems to have gotten worse (or maybe I'm just noticing it more now?). Not sure why this happens or what I can do about it. Have you had any experience with this issue?
Hmm. Curious. Can you post a link to a photo of the scraping. I might be able to tell you if it's a cause for concern or not.
@@DavidHancock Yeah, a strange thing. I've added a photo to my flickr here www.flickr.com/photos/78884755@N02/50048582811/in/dateposted-public/ Please see the photo description for more details. Thanks for having a look!
@@DavidHancock Update: I removed the winding knob (by removing the center screw using spanner wrench) and saw that the black ring which holds the knob in place was sinking slightly because the black ring is not held firmly in place by the metal pins. See here if you'd like www.flickr.com/photos/78884755@N02/50051676973/in/dateposted-public/
Not the most elegant fix, and the knob still makes a bit of contact, but it seems to be better now. Not sure if this is a design flaw or just something weird on my copy. Anyway, now that I've seen the inside, I'm not as worried about this causing any significant problems besides the ring of paint that was scraped off.
Oh interesting. It looks like someone dropped it on that side at some point. The good news is that though that won't be pretty and though it may be slightly harder to advance it shouldn't affect the camera. But it looks like your fix might do the trick about getting it back into alignment and working again. These are pretty robust so getting it properly aligned with a fix like yours ought to keep it going for years.
DUDE!!!! You are blowing my mind right now. I feel so dumb.
Thank you but don't feel dumb about cameras. There's a LOT to learn with these.
I had a S2A back in the 70's however it didn't have mirror lockup after the model S.
Thank you!
hi David. The early S2 film back can use it on the S2A?
i need another film back!
To the best of my knowledge, yes. I believe that one of mine is an early S2 film back.
@@DavidHancock the EC film back works too?
@@sebvz89 That I don't know because I've never had one.
I just bought one from eBay and I don’t have film yet but when I wine the lever so that I can press down the shutter button, as I twist the winding lever and it comes to a stop my shutter button still won’t fire unless I force the winding lever a bit more which then makes a ugly clicking sound and feeling then I’m able to press down the shutter button, any ideas?
Check out my second video where I cover all the functionality. I think your question is answered there.
sometimes I have to turn the crank more than once to activate the shutter. I don't know why that happens
As in more than one full rotation? That would be normal. If you crank it until it "thunks" into place and then have to do it again, that would not be normal.
@@DavidHancock is more than one full rotation. I crank until "thunks" but, there is more tension to turn the crank, two or three time to activate the shutter this happens random. Sorry for my English isn't my language
@@sebvz89 No worries on your English. I'm following you well. What you're describing sounds normal.
@@DavidHancock when i turn the crank a complete cycle the "thunk" sounds but sometimes I have to turn once or twice to block the advance of the crank.
I thought that the advance of the crank is done one complete cycle to activate the shutter, not two or three times to do it
I like that this video is fairly recent. I was just browsing through eBay and see a Zenza Bronica SQ model and was wondering what the difference is with SQ and s2,c2? I'm a bit intimidated by the blur or out of focus some mentioned about this type of camera though.
The SQ is a newer model and has a leaf shutter in the lens. They are often preferred by Bronica users who want a newer 6X6 camera. Here's a Camerapedia page on them that explains the different models. I've been looking for an SQ-B, but any of the models are a good choice: camera-wiki.org/wiki/Bronica_SQ
Hi David! one question. The nikkor P have clicks on the aperture rings? my lens doesn't (have lines on down to the numbers) i think it's the early version
I think so but I haven't used that version of the lens.
I have the SQai...I'm in Sac...let me know if at some point you'd want to do a review of it...love the channel!
Thank you. I'm not in California anymore, however. Were I, I would definitely be tempted to borrow yours.
@@DavidHancock thinking of getting a GS-1 (seems to be the most reasonable way to shoot 6x7)...have you ever used one?...how's the glass?
I have not. I've shot 6X7 on the Pentax 6X7 MLU and 67II as well as the RB67 and RB67 Pro S. I tend to think of Bronicas as competing with the best, so it's hard for me to imagine the GS-1 would be anything other than pleasing and good.
I saw one in a camera store but it does not have the s2a marking near the serial number. Is there a way to ckeck it online?
There's a link in the video description, I forget which, that has that info.
@@DavidHancock Thanks.After watching all 3 videos I found out everything I needed to know...and subscribed :)
Outstanding.
Thank you!
Hi Dave, my Zenza has the serial number CB 939xx yet the winder is the same as yours, it also has the butterfly strap lugs on it.Two questions, is there any other easy way to check if it's an S2 or an S2A and how do you get the strap off?
There's a link in the video's description to a serial number website. That's the best source I can direct you to.
i checked out that link (I think) and it sort of said it's not but all evidence points to it being an S2A. I just thought you should know as you said in your video that the numbers for the S2A start at 100,000. I don't think that's true. I also found another discussion group where a chap had a 5 digit serial number that started with 9 and was identified as a S2A. ps, there is a mis-identified S2A on ebay at the moment - id'd as an S2.
This videos are helpful, but the insane contrast of the tabletop segments make them kind of hard to watch. Not sure if that's a lighting or camera issue.
Thank you. It's the lighting. I should have grabbed a different backdrop color, which would have helped. The current batch of these were all filmed on white. The next batch will be on a mid-blue.
Is the c2 as reliable as the s2a?
I don't think that the C2 ever had the mechanical overhaul that improved performance like the S2A. I could be wrong about that, however.
hi! love the vids! Hope ull make a bronica etr system as well.. Thanks!
Thank you! I will try to do the ETR at some point, yes.
@@DavidHancock thanks! Ill make sure to check on it! :) Appreciate the reply. Wishing the best for your channel!
excellent videos on this camera I have a bronica S and I have all this extra components in a beautiful leather case and was wondering how much they typically sell for
Thank you. Depends on the components and the condition. Your best bet is to research closed or ongoing auctions on eBay to get an idea of the value.
Hi David, I come for asking help again! I received a lovely offer from a local seller for a Astro Berlin 150mm f1.8 lens, is there anyway I could mount it onto the s2？ And what’s the name of the microtube you use as the adapter for 4x5 lens to bronica？
Maybe. The key is what mount is the lens in, do you know? I think that's a 6X6 lens (if it's the Pentacon Six version, that is,) but I've also seen photos of it as a C lens, and in other mounts that I can't readily identify. I am, admittedly, not an expert on Astro Berlin, except to know their reputation as having made great lenses.
Does it look like this?
www.pinterest.com/pin/862580134850105915/
or this?
www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/astro-berlin-150mm-f1-pan-tachar-lens-1778450358
If the answer is yes then when you should do is tell the seller to sell it to me for half of what he wants from you.
Just kidding, of course. I would think that yes you can, however, it won't be an f/1.8. The throat on the S2's helical mount is 57mm, so even if the lens were mounted optimally (not likely) on the S2, you'd get no faster than an f/2.6. Now, that's fine and still PLENTY fast for a 150mm lens, but you'd lose the wide-open image character. Also, the mounting will be HARD. If the lens is 150mm from the aperture (typical of how these are measured) then you have to have the lens mounted so that the aperture 48.3mm from the lens mount (not the front of the helical, the large bayonet mount.) That means that you'll have very little space, maybe a couple of centimeters, to rig up a mount that will attach to the focusing helical's 57mm thread.
Another issue is what mount it's in natively. If it's a Pentacon six that has a register distance of 74.1mm. The S2A is 101.7mm (not including the focus helicoid.) A Pentacon Six lens on a Bronica will only focus to about as far away as five feet.
Honestly, what I'd do is a different take. Pick up a speed graphic in 2X3 or 4X5 with a focal plan shutter. Have a custom lens board made, and use the lens on large format. It's a WAY different experience but you'll get a lot more out of the lens. You may not fill the entire film plane with image but you'll get to play around with the lens in a lot of creative and interesting ways that the Bronica won't allow.
@David Hancock O M G, I don't know I could learn so much even from a reply.
Thank you with all my heart!
The lens looks like the one in the first link:
www.pinterest.com/pin/862580134850105915/.
And I did some more digging work last night, and I found this one looked almost the same (except for the aperture):
www.liveauctioneers.com/item/5255403_659-astro-berlin-pan-tachar-c-23150mm
There is also a picture of an adapter for Bronica in the link, which encourages me a lot.
By saying "If the lens is 150mm from the aperture (typical of how these are measured) then you have to have the lens mounted so that the aperture 48.3mm from the lens mount (not the front of the helical, the large bayonet mount.) ", how does the 48.3mm come out?
Neither I nor the seller could identify the name of the bayonet, and I'm confused now, how many versions of 150mm f1.8 did Astro Berlin produce? Every picture I googled is DIFFERENT...Maybe, I mean there is the possibility, many of the existing Astro Berlin lens have been modified to other mount, and cannot be restored to the native condition.
And I would happily recommend you to the seller now:)
:D Thank you. So can you get a photo of the bayonet and share a link in the comment? I'm not 100% at these, especially medium-format bayonets, but I can try.
So the 48.3mm. The flange focal distance on a camera is the length at which the lenses are designed to focus at infinity. Longer they focus closer -- same reason that when we focus closer with a lens the lens moves away from the camera. So let's say you have an M42 lens with the 44.46mm (I think) flange length. If you put that lens on a Nikon without correction it will only focus to about 50 or so feet because the lens has been moved away from the focal length. So let's assume we put that M42 lens on a Bronica with the 101.7mm flange length. We've more than doubled the M42 flange length so on Bronica an M42 lens could only make extreme macros.
I expect none of that is news to you but I wanted to make sure we're both thinking in the same way for the Astro Berlin.
The Bronica flange length (film to the mouth of the large bayonet) is 101.7mm. The Astro Berlin is 150mm. So at best you have a different from the front of the camera to the Astro Berlin of 48.3mm. That assumes that the Astro Berlin has a true focal length. An 18mm M42 lens, for instance, is not an 18mm lens -- it's a 44.46mm lens with an angle of view like an 18mm lens. So the question becomes where is the focal distance calculate from.
In general, lens coal distances if they're a true focal distance are calculate from the lens' optical center. In general, that's where the light rays are most bunched and where the aperture is placed. Now, there are exceptions to that and I have at least two 4X5 lenses that break that rule and many SLR system lenses that do. But if the Astro Berlin is calculated in a standard way (which could be the case for a lens its age) then the lens would focus light 150mm behind the aperture.
Here's how you verify that. Grab a metric ruler and take it with you to see the lens. Find a wall on the shop opposite the windows and ask the shop owner to kill the lights for a minute. Find a view through the windows that's at infinity focus. Infinity focus in optics is focal length * 200 (for a 150, that's 30,000mm, which is, what, 30 meters, I think? I'm American, don't judge.) Use the lens to project an image of an infinity scene onto the wall and use the ruler to figure out the distance from the rear of the lens to the wall. If that distance is more than 101.7mm, then it is possible (maybe not practical, maybe not easy, but possible) to make some kind of adapter that will work on the Bronica. Another way to test that would be to bring the Bronica. Hold the lens in front of it (again, lights off in the store) and see if you can get an infinity focus image on the focusing screen. You'll basically be free-lensing the Astro Berlin at that point.
Assuming it's possible, then it's a matter of finding an adapter or making one. I make adapters doe lenses all that time (I'm working on a long-term project to build my own lenses, including complex lenses, but that's a story for another comment thread.) Mostly I make adapters for Sony E Mount, but I have adapted lenses to Bronica (a Komura 500mm f/7 and a Caltar 165mm 4X5 lens, and some meniscus lenses.) But let me know if you can get a photo of the mount and if we can identify it that might save you lots of trouble.
David Hancock Thank you David. It has been a rough day today, I don’t even have time to read and learn from your reply. I’ll get back to you with the photo of the bayonet in the weekend! Good luck!
@@DavidHancock I'm not looking for excuse, but I finally find a minute from the crazy world…… May I ask for your email? It seems I can't post any picture here. And thank you again for the knowledge, the focal length, measuring the room for adapter, etc
Hey Dude, my DoF wont work, no matter what my DoF does not work exactly ! im going crazy. :D
it just do nothing when i push it. the aperture does not move, or very very slowly .
So can you help me?
how can i repair it or do i use it wrong?
Sounds like it does need a repair. With the lens off the camera, set the apperture to f/16. On the back of the lens is a small level. Push that and the aperture will close. If it does, it should close quickly. If the apperture does not close quickly then there's gummy lubricating oil somewhere. If the apperture blades have shiny spots or steaks, the oil is on the blades. If not, it's likely in the mechanism.
If the apperture does stop down quickly then the issue is with the camera.
If the lens aperture is like that requires lens disassembly and then apperture cleaning. If you're not comfortable doing that, most cameras repair shops should be able to handle that and these lenses are very simple inside.
@@DavidHancock @grün grün The DoF mechanism consists of three parts: a) the lever in the camera b) the transmission in the helicoil and c) the lever in the lens. So you have two connection points.
To narrow the problem down, do the following:
First detach the helicoil from the camera. Then push the DoF Button. On the right side, in the middle, there is the lever and it should move up when you press the DoF button.
Second step: Have a look into the helicoil and check if the transmission arm is moving freely. Attach the Helicoil. Push the DoF button. Does the transmission arm move up?
Third step: Attach the lens and push the button ...
Last test: Detach the helicoil with lens from the body and push the lever by hand.
Hi david can i contact you somehow i buy bronica S2A and looks i have some light leak right now i develop film and it looks like maybe you have idea wagt is wrong if you see neg. ? thx
Sure thing. The easiest way to reach me is through here in comments. Can you upload some of the photos with light leaks and share a link here? I'll see if I can tell what's up.
Does your film advance lever also go backwards? I just got mine and everything appears to work but it seems a bit odd that I can crank the film advance backwards, it just clicks and that’s it, just checking to see if that’s normal.
I'll check tonight. I can't recall. That sounds normal, but I'll verify.
David Hancock thank you, I appreciate it! There’s surprisingly not too much info out there on the S2A, but I’ve been enjoying playing around with it since it arrived today!
The backwards spin is completely normal.
David Hancock thank you!
It's a freewheel like on a bicycle ...
The bayonet ok The shutter speed ring, is for plug the exposimeter.
Thank you!
Youre wellcome.☺️
External exposimeter
Would you recommend this model over the EC?...I can’t decide which one to get
I haven't used the EC but I've heard they're not as reliable and can have issues with the electronic components and mirror action.
Great and jn no way inferior to the Hassy 500 CM.
Completely agree. I prefer theese to the 500 by a long shot, in fact.
Hi David, lovely video buddy - I also am I proud owner of an S2A, thing is that I cant cock it without film - please help
That sounds normal. They're designed not to be cocked without film. Try it without the film back on. That should allow it to be cocked and fired.
@@DavidHancock Thanks mate . . . even without the film back same thing - once can wide to infinity - managed to shoot a roll this weekend though
Selling my AE-1P for this camera!
Good choice. This is a HUGE step up.
@@DavidHancock Hey man, just shot my first roll. I had this weird problem where I finished all 12 shots, and as I was winding the film the camera decided to cock the shutter and stop winding at the 16th frame on the counter. I thought it had finished winding and opened it up, but it turned out that it hadn't finished. Do you know by any chance why that happened? Other than that I had terrific fun scaring others with the loud shutter 🤣
@@ChairmanZhongXiNa What back do you have?
@@dwpdofficial2598 There's only one back for S2s, which can swap between 120 and 220. I had it set to 120. Also for some reason it only happens on Portra 400, not ektar, not hp5.
@@ChairmanZhongXiNa nah, there’s a second, rarer kind of back that shoots 6x4.5, I have two of them on my system. Does the film back say 6x6 on the top or 6x4.5 ?
The bayonet on the shutter speed control is for the exposure metering chimney style viewfinder.
Not affiliated example:
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323950300126
Thank you!
ABSOLUTELY MANUAL..the Japanese 6 x 6 cm format equivalent of the American 4x5" Large Format Speed
Graphic. I"'ve had them. Obviously, because of its loud ka- xhink of the shutter, James Bond would never have used it as a spy camera. That's its only drawback, but it DOES let you know that the shutter has opened and closed, exposing the film. As far as I'm concerned, the totally manual cameras were better for the photgrapher than the automatic cameras. They made the photographer stop for a moment and think about his exposure,
while the iPhones and other camera phones, along with shutter and aperture priority cameras, didn' t do that job. You have a good
camera, antique and manual or not, keep it as long as you can. I was foolish and didn't keep any of my cameras.
My favorite was the Speed Graphic, so I took it apart to see how it ticks...it's still in pieces 20 years later. Thank you for the video.
Thank you! I agree that manual shooting and slower shooting are excellent disciplines for improving photography. Anyone can grab a brand-new DSLR or smartphone and burst-shoot until something looks relatively good. Not everyone can deliver a good composition with an all-manual film camera on slide stock.