Vox AC30 30th Anniversary Limited Edition - Part 1
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- Опубліковано 22 жов 2024
- The customer thought this one might just need a quick service.
A quick look shows that quite a bit of work is required before you'd be trusting it as your main amp for upcoming gigs.
That was really cool to watch, enjoyed the playing at the end :D
Thanks mate, good to see your name here.
Just waiting to get COVID so I can catch up on all your videos! (joking, I'll chuck em on when I'm doing a big batch of repairs without videoing them!)
Your own bias probes won't fit into the recessed EL84 sockets, but vintage socket extenders or socket interruptors might. Look for Vector or Pomona brands. Socket extenders (especially Pomona) are typically smaller diameter and taller than the Vector extenders or interruptors, and extenders can easily be modified into interruptors.
Yes, I've got some B9A socket savers somewhere which would do the job. Good thinking, 99!
@@BradsGuitarGarage , hopefully, socket savers are *tall enough* to reach the sockets. Socket extenders are often at least 50% taller than socket savers. Maybe stack two socket savers together?
Those god awful Orange drops. Jeezis.
Would it be unheard of to move the tube sockets off the PCB on one of these? Fabricate something to create some distance there.
In short: not practical.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Assumed so. Trying to justify grabbing one listed pretty damn cheap locally.
If it's cheap, you can pretty much guarantee it's either never been maintained, or it's had poorly executed work done. Bargains are extremely rare these days. At least see if you can have a look inside the chassis before buying.
An iron that's too hot isn't the only way to delaminate traces from a printed board. An iron that isn't hot enough and dwelling far too long to get the pad and lead up to temperature can do it, too.
Its even easier to overheat and delaminate pads and traces when using lead-free solder, which requires higher temperature, or longer application of the soldering iron, in order to melt the solder so it flows and wets well. Anyway, you are 100% correct: use an iron with a clean tip and a purpose-selected tip shape, set the temperature hot enough to do the job, and get in and out *fast*. Additional flux generally won't hurt, but in most cases won't be necessary with flux-core solder and the right tip, temperature, and technique.
True words, mate.
Sitting on a joint for half an hour does the same.
Not to mention your arse gets burned and nobody gets stoned either.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Lmao
Do you think this amp is a good amp? Which is better, korg era or this amp? I have both, so I'm going to leave only one. Please ask for advice.
Did you check out the whole series on this amp?
There was a lot of work required. Particularly in the replacement of the sockets.
It depends what condition they amps are in.
Here's an article about this one: www.voxshowroom.com/uk/amp/rmac30ltd_1990.html
@@BradsGuitarGarage Thank you for answers.
Are 7189s available in Australia?
NOS from some vendors, yes.
As The Cosmic Psychos said; "Blokes You Can Trust" only.
@@BradsGuitarGarage
Trusted vendors: NOS = New Old Stock
ebay: NOS = Nasty Old Shit
I love your channel ya fukwit !
And who the fuk are you, champion-guts?
Is it just me is or is that PCB just god-awful nasty? Looks like you've got your work cut out bringing that one back up to where it should be.