I forgot how much I love your videos! It's been a while, thanks for posting this! Very interesting to see some of those things that can go wrong, as well. Awesome stuff.
I did not plan on that many sparks hitting the lens, I was a bit freaked out when I looked at the footage, I had to look at the front of the lens to see if I damaged it.
Sam Harper not going to lie I actually flinched a little bit at that part. It's a very foreign feeling to look directly at a shower of sparks without a mask
Great vid, thank you sir for sharing. What are the advantages of tempering in oil? Never heard of that. What effect does rocking the blade on the grinder wheel have? Does it give less of a hollow grind as if you were using a lager wheel? thanks
There are no big advantages to the oil, my old toaster oven I used to temper in varied a bit in temperature. The new pid set up with the oil is stays pretty much at the temp I set at with little variance. It is a little more accurate process now. I have now swapped out the oil with a low temp salts, the smell of french fries in the shop was distracting. The rocking/moving the blade is to shape the hollow of the blade, it is a flat-ish grind behind the edge then curves more up by the spine.
sorry but i am looking forward to the answer. I'm a big fan of vintage things, especially about this vintage razor. it fascinates me and makes me want to create something special but Vietnam is nothing but the stories told by my ancestors. I am missing information about steel process and material (steel type). I tried consulting some people like LEWIS RAZORS. but that's still not enough, I failed several times. PLEASE . WHAT IS THE BEST MATERIAL FOR 1 Razor.And IMPORTANT INFORMATION? I REALLY THANK YOU
Can you list the stones you used please. My cerax 1000 is like my favorite stone ever. Can't really afford nanies yet. Got a black ark but am not really as impressed as I thought I'd be with it.
I've been a sub for years, but recently started going through your channel again (fantastic content). Are you still using the Naniwa stones? Do you have a preference of the S2 super stones over the traditional?
Love your work and hope to someday make a meet up. I have made several razors from W2 and truly like it and the edge that it takes and the first two I attempted to quench in water and both of the split as well. My third on I left the edge a bit thicker than normal (more so than the O1, 1080, and 52100) and quenched in oil and that seemed to work as well. I wonder if the edge is too thin to quench in water? That's the only conclusion that I can comet too. Anyway I always look for new videos and admire you creativity and work. Thanks for a great video!
I use water with W2 halfway often. I think the problem this time was I put some scratch marks on the blade after normalizing for the hamon clay to stick to. I forgot to go back and smooth the edges and corners of the blade edge. I think that is what happened, I really do not remember. Thanks for your comments and thoughts. I tend to leave a lot of thickness before heat treat with all steels.
Hey buddy I commented many times before but I'd like to say I really miss your videos and your expertise. You're such a perfectionist than it shows. One question I have about this particular video is what kind of clay do you use to get that jamone(or however you spell it)? And where do you get it from?
@@lewisrazors .... Actually I have a little baggie of satanite powder for when repairs need made on the inside of my forge I didn't even think about using that. thank you sir
Very cool razor! It's great to see another video from you, Charlie. As you found out, there's no need to water quench W2 with a cross section as thin as a "pre-ground" razor 😯 lol Although I'm sure you were probably just trying to get more activity in the hamon, with the cross section of the steel being so thin already it will probably make very little difference than something like Parks 50 oil. If you wanted to try a water quench again, you could try an interrupted quench in water first to cool past the pearlite nose, then into warm oil to finish the quench for less stress. This is actually kind of how fast commercial quench oil (Parks 50) works. Anyway, great job keeping at it especially after 2 new additions to your scrap pile. It still happens to us knifemakers even years later. Thanks as always for sharing. I do actually have a question if you don't mind. Why the sudden switch in grinding style after you seemed to already be comfortable and efficient in edge up grinding? Does it have something to do with the way you feathered the edge in and thus creating a "variable" hollow grind? Thanks again man!
You are right about the water, I was trying to get more hamon activity. Thanks for the interrupted quench ideas. The hollow never follows the shape of the wheel, there will be a smaller radius up near the spine then flatten a bit behind the edge. When I grind edge down it is easier to flatten the curve behind the edge. In reality i switch edge up/edge down and do not think about too much. I tend to edge up making the hollow beneath the spine then go edge down to blend and flatten the area behind the edge.
I like water better it is less messy, and makes for a better hamon, but comes with the additional risk of cracking the blade. I used oil the second time because I was frustrated and did not want take the chance of scrapping another razor.
This is sort of a "bookworm" input but I have been leaning metallurgy over the last couple months here in college as an aspiring machinist. Water seems to only be a viable quenching medium for steel that has a carbon content of less than 0.35% - With W2 steel measuring as high as 1.5%, mineral oil should give a satisfactory quench without compromising a crisp hamon edge. Thanks for your hard work in dedicating all the different outcomes during your creations, Lewis Razors - it's great to see the real-world application and outcomes to all these wonky CCT diagrams! Beautiful work!
I have not made any recently, I hope to start up again. I have had several surgeries the past year. I hope to have it all sorted out in 6 months or so. What kind of videos would you like to see. I have thought about making some more videos. Something that does not involve hammering.
Man this was a big help. I also like how you showed your mistakes and you correcting them. What most people don't understand is he prolly had like at least 2 hours into each one of those messed up razors.
Would you consider 8000 grit stone enough for a razor? It's the finest I currently have and it's more than enough for knives but haven't really wanted to try it with my razors. Is there a method you use to test sharpness or do you know of any that people use? Sometimes I end up thinking after stroping my blade is sharp enough but then take the first cut and wash lather of and strop a little more. Also thanks for the videos, they're the best!
An 8k stone is just fine for razors. As a matter of fact when people are asking about higher grit hones, I always tell them they should not get anything above 8k until they can get a good shave off of the 8k. Any grit after 8k is just icing on the cake. An 8k edge with a few strops on chrome oxide is one of my favorite shaving edges. If you go the Straight Razor Place Forums, there is a lot of good information on honing. Lynn Abrams and Gssixgun youtube channels are two to the best for razor honing information. I feel the edge with the pad of my thumb to check for sharpness, but the only real test, is shaving with it and seeing how it preforms.
I've been watching your videos for over a year. I forge as well but still trying too save up for a grinder that can hollow grind. 2x72, u inspire me to make razors as well. Thanks for your videos.
Charlie, I would love to see your own personal take on an old Wade & Butcher FBU with a barbers notch, If you ever decide to make one I certainly would be interested.
Mr Lewis your razors are exceptional, even the cracked and broken ones are no doubt sought after, they're works of art in themselves. Excellent work and such a joy to watch!Thank you Maestro!
Mr Lewis I've lost count how many times I've rerun and watched your videos. I never tire at watching old school skill and the magic of creating such treasures from unassuming pieces of steel. You make it look so easy, but know full well it takes years and years of diligent focus and patience to achieve works that laymen such as myself hold in absolute awe! Well done Mr. Lewis.
3 inches or a little less for length, the width just depends on what you like. I like my 5/8" blades and I like my 1" blades it just depends on my mood,
Two of my friends, both very talented, one a knife maker, one a razor maker both grind edge down. After seeing Bruno from Snail Forge grind a razor edge down (his grinding is awesome) I decided to give it a try. I tend to grind edge up near the spine, and edge down while thinning the blade behind the edge. It is just another method, both ways work.
Thank you for leaving in the scrapped blades. To me, it shows the skill involved in making the razor. Its never as easy as most videos make it out to be. Nice finished piece as well.
a jewelers saw would be handy and way safer to saw small pieces. you can buy many sizes of blades and they will cut steel . I use a piece of hard wood with a notch cut in it, screwed to a table with the notch sticking out, to cut with the jewelers saw. the saw makes a very fine cut and easy to control.
I still have a couple of blades made in the 1870’s that I cleaned up and made new handles for. It really surprised me how fine the blades where made back then.
I am glad you found the video helpful, best of luck with your razor making. The Black Bear Forge channel has helped me a lot with my black smithing skills.
But on the other hand I have ruined a lot more blades than you :) I visited some knife maker friends last week it was the same thing, I was jealous of their forging and grinding, The grass is always greener on blah blah blah. Thanks for the comment.
Looks like your blade failed in the quench because of a Stress Point. From what I can tell there are very rough grinding lines on the steel. Would it be worth a try to polish them out before heat treating and see what happens? When I make a Spring for a rifle all lines are in the direction of the spring and I go to 600 grit for the polish. I was happy to see you file and using a file properly. My old Boss would be proud of you!
You are right and spot on. I usually go back to 36 or 60 grit after heat treat, I leave my edges thick. I hate to take the time to go up in grits, just for heat treat. I get away with the coarse scratches more that 9 out of 10 times. It just happened to break while I had the camera on it. Thank you for your comments, they were appreciated.
Just thinking that the purpose of polishing the blade would be to convert the Sharp V Grooves from grinding to more of a Rounded Washboard Surface. So maybe forget about going "Up through the grades" and just hit the surface with about a 320 grit wheel. That may help remove the start of stress cracks. Wish I knew more but right now I am trying to understand Women, Ha!
I was so glad you showed that mistakes aswell.. to be honest when you said water quench.. I thought... Noooo!!! 😀 Still in the end.. a beautiful razor👍🏻
I forgot how much I love your videos! It's been a while, thanks for posting this! Very interesting to see some of those things that can go wrong, as well. Awesome stuff.
Thank you for the kind words.
7:22 Be sure to put on some eye protection before watching this part.
I did not plan on that many sparks hitting the lens, I was a bit freaked out when I looked at the footage, I had to look at the front of the lens to see if I damaged it.
Sam Harper not going to lie I actually flinched a little bit at that part. It's a very foreign feeling to look directly at a shower of sparks without a mask
Nici video. Thanks. 20:00 Which brand of diamond plate do you use?
I am now using an atoma brand diamond plate, I like it a lot.
@@lewisrazors Thank you very much.
As always, Charlie, great job. You have done a magnificent job helping the straight razor community.
Thank you very much, I have learned a great deal from you. You were one of the pioneers of this straight razor reassurance.
wow.. that one would be unaffordable, seeing you made several... what a load of work... thanks for sharing the process and your knowledge... :-)
Great vid, thank you sir for sharing. What are the advantages of tempering in oil? Never heard of that. What effect does rocking the blade on the grinder wheel have? Does it give less of a hollow grind as if you were using a lager wheel? thanks
There are no big advantages to the oil, my old toaster oven I used to temper in varied a bit in temperature. The new pid set up with the oil is stays pretty much at the temp I set at with little variance. It is a little more accurate process now. I have now swapped out the oil with a low temp salts, the smell of french fries in the shop was distracting.
The rocking/moving the blade is to shape the hollow of the blade, it is a flat-ish grind behind the edge then curves more up by the spine.
Thank your sir for taking the time to reply, I really appreciate it and enjoy your vids.
Razor don’t need « re-cooking » it’s like files, isn’t!?
Tight gran (steel) for sharp point...
Nice Video. Interesting to see you use the grinder. Tips are hard to come by :)
Thanks for the comment
sorry but i am looking forward to the answer. I'm a big fan of vintage things, especially about this vintage razor. it fascinates me and makes me want to create something special but Vietnam is nothing but the stories told by my ancestors. I am missing information about steel process and material (steel type). I tried consulting some people like LEWIS RAZORS. but that's still not enough, I failed several times.
PLEASE . WHAT IS THE BEST MATERIAL FOR 1 Razor.And IMPORTANT INFORMATION? I REALLY THANK YOU
Can you list the stones you used please. My cerax 1000 is like my favorite stone ever. Can't really afford nanies yet. Got a black ark but am not really as impressed as I thought I'd be with it.
I've been a sub for years, but recently started going through your channel again (fantastic content). Are you still using the Naniwa stones? Do you have a preference of the S2 super stones over the traditional?
How long time i wait new video with macking process. The best, mate. Thank You from Russia!!!
You are very welcome, Texas, USA
Great video. Patient & very well explained. Some real good tips mentioned here also. Thank you very much kind Sir.
You are very welcome
I lookt everywhere for the pins and bolts to hold the wedge in place before the pining.
what's up everybody it's critikal, and today we're going to make a razor
Oh and you're also named Charlie, wow I didn't know that. Anyway great work; who knew watching someone beat metal with a hammer could be so relaxing.
Hitting things with a hammers is always relaxing.
I like it when you don't speed up the video so I can see all the hard work.
Love your work and hope to someday make a meet up. I have made several razors from W2 and truly like it and the edge that it takes and the first two I attempted to quench in water and both of the split as well. My third on I left the edge a bit thicker than normal (more so than the O1, 1080, and 52100) and quenched in oil and that seemed to work as well. I wonder if the edge is too thin to quench in water? That's the only conclusion that I can comet too. Anyway I always look for new videos and admire you creativity and work. Thanks for a great video!
I use water with W2 halfway often. I think the problem this time was I put some scratch marks on the blade after normalizing for the hamon clay to stick to. I forgot to go back and smooth the edges and corners of the blade edge. I think that is what happened, I really do not remember.
Thanks for your comments and thoughts. I tend to leave a lot of thickness before heat treat with all steels.
Its your stick to it quality that make your blades so nice. Thank you for taking the time to make and share this video with us.
You are very welcome
Been subscribed for 3 years waiting for another long style vid. Thank You
You are very welcome, thanks for hanging around
Just put of curiosity where did you get your stones from
I love your post anvil, can you tell me how you got it?
Great vid as always Charlie. Thanks
You are welcome
I feel very sorry for the cracking after putting in so much hard work that made up my mind don't watch any further.
That is the way I felt also
I actually felt your pain when that blade cracked
It is part of the game, but still makes me say a few blue words whenever it happens. Thanks for the comment
Persistence is the key. Thanks for that video. =)
You are very welcome
Smart man,using a push stick
I have become attached to those little piggies over the years, I would like to keep them attached.
Unreal! That's amazingly beautiful. I cannot believe how much time and work you out into this. Would love to own one of your razors
Thanks for the comment and kind words
Thank you for this informative how to video, beautiful razor !!
You are welcome
What type clay did he use
Eso parece un hacha de cortar carne
Hey buddy I commented many times before but I'd like to say I really miss your videos and your expertise. You're such a perfectionist than it shows. One question I have about this particular video is what kind of clay do you use to get that jamone(or however you spell it)? And where do you get it from?
The clay was satanite. I bought mine from Harbison Walker, knife making, furnace making places also sell it.
@@lewisrazors .... Actually I have a little baggie of satanite powder for when repairs need made on the inside of my forge I didn't even think about using that. thank you sir
I really like how even when you mess up you show it. It shows how it really is when you’re making something.
If you look at my picture you’ll see this lewis could use a good razor
Man those Lewises are a rascally bunch :) My face hair is similar sometimes.
Very cool razor! It's great to see another video from you, Charlie. As you found out, there's no need to water quench W2 with a cross section as thin as a "pre-ground" razor 😯 lol
Although I'm sure you were probably just trying to get more activity in the hamon, with the cross section of the steel being so thin already it will probably make very little difference than something like Parks 50 oil. If you wanted to try a water quench again, you could try an interrupted quench in water first to cool past the pearlite nose, then into warm oil to finish the quench for less stress. This is actually kind of how fast commercial quench oil (Parks 50) works.
Anyway, great job keeping at it especially after 2 new additions to your scrap pile. It still happens to us knifemakers even years later. Thanks as always for sharing. I do actually have a question if you don't mind. Why the sudden switch in grinding style after you seemed to already be comfortable and efficient in edge up grinding? Does it have something to do with the way you feathered the edge in and thus creating a "variable" hollow grind? Thanks again man!
You are right about the water, I was trying to get more hamon activity. Thanks for the interrupted quench ideas.
The hollow never follows the shape of the wheel, there will be a smaller radius up near the spine then flatten a bit behind the edge. When I grind edge down it is easier to flatten the curve behind the edge. In reality i switch edge up/edge down and do not think about too much. I tend to edge up making the hollow beneath the spine then go edge down to blend and flatten the area behind the edge.
Do you sell any of these?
Great work! Why did you choose to quench the first one in water, instead of oil?
I like water better it is less messy, and makes for a better hamon, but comes with the additional risk of cracking the blade. I used oil the second time because I was frustrated and did not want take the chance of scrapping another razor.
Ah okay. Yeah i was wondering about that, i used to quench in water and i have LOTS of scrapped blades
This is sort of a "bookworm" input but I have been leaning metallurgy over the last couple months here in college as an aspiring machinist. Water seems to only be a viable quenching medium for steel that has a carbon content of less than 0.35% - With W2 steel measuring as high as 1.5%, mineral oil should give a satisfactory quench without compromising a crisp hamon edge. Thanks for your hard work in dedicating all the different outcomes during your creations, Lewis Razors - it's great to see the real-world application and outcomes to all these wonky CCT diagrams! Beautiful work!
Hey Lewis are you still doing videos and making razors?
I have not made any recently, I hope to start up again. I have had several surgeries the past year. I hope to have it all sorted out in 6 months or so. What kind of videos would you like to see. I have thought about making some more videos. Something that does not involve hammering.
Lewis Razors I would like to purchase a razors I have followed you years and would love a raxor
amazing
That is a manly razor! I thought a 6/8 was a big razor until I saw this! It must be close to a 16/8!!! Stunningly beautiful!
I think it was around 9 or 10 eighths, I can not remember
Man this was a big help. I also like how you showed your mistakes and you correcting them. What most people don't understand is he prolly had like at least 2 hours into each one of those messed up razors.
2 hours?? More like 6 hours on each razor.
Would you consider 8000 grit stone enough for a razor? It's the finest I currently have and it's more than enough for knives but haven't really wanted to try it with my razors. Is there a method you use to test sharpness or do you know of any that people use? Sometimes I end up thinking after stroping my blade is sharp enough but then take the first cut and wash lather of and strop a little more. Also thanks for the videos, they're the best!
An 8k stone is just fine for razors. As a matter of fact when people are asking about higher grit hones, I always tell them they should not get anything above 8k until they can get a good shave off of the 8k. Any grit after 8k is just icing on the cake. An 8k edge with a few strops on chrome oxide is one of my favorite shaving edges.
If you go the Straight Razor Place Forums, there is a lot of good information on honing. Lynn Abrams and Gssixgun youtube channels are two to the best for razor honing information.
I feel the edge with the pad of my thumb to check for sharpness, but the only real test, is shaving with it and seeing how it preforms.
@@lewisrazors hey Lewis, do you sell some of your custom made razors? If so, what price range are they in? Thanks
Geofatboy sharpness test is to cut standing hair and that's what I've been using
I've been watching your videos for over a year. I forge as well but still trying too save up for a grinder that can hollow grind. 2x72, u inspire me to make razors as well. Thanks for your videos.
I wish you the best with your metal working, it is great to hear your kind words
Charlie, I would love to see your own personal take on an old Wade & Butcher FBU with a barbers notch, If you ever decide to make one I certainly would be interested.
Thanks for planting that idea in my head, I will remember it next time I am trying to figure out what to do.
👍👍👍 bos
I do not like writing video commentaries, but this work of the lord, made with so much love, deserves many Congratulations !!!!
Thank you for taking the time to comment, it made me happy
I enjoy your videos. Your approach of commentary and mixing the video is really great, let alone your work. Thanks for your efforts.
Thanks for your feedback, I have slowly been improving my video production game.
Great idea with the drill chuck Charlie!
I wish I could say it was an original idea, Thanks
Your videos got mi into blacksmithing in the first place
Thanxalot
Still have to make a straightrazor though
I am glad to hear you have enjoyed the videos, Happy hammering
Mr Lewis your razors are exceptional, even the cracked and broken ones are no doubt sought after, they're works of art in themselves. Excellent work and such a joy to watch!Thank you Maestro!
Thanks
Another video that I can watch over and over. Very relaxing and the end product is amazing. I transfer the video to a large screen and mellow out.
Glad you like it
Mr Lewis I've lost count how many times I've rerun and watched your videos. I never tire at watching old school skill and the magic of creating such treasures from unassuming pieces of steel. You make it look so easy, but know full well it takes years and years of diligent focus and patience to achieve works that laymen such as myself hold in absolute awe! Well done Mr. Lewis.
Those are very kind words thank you for your comment.
Hi Charlie..
I really loved watching the process of making your razor.
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers Tony.👍🍺⛏🇦🇺
You are welcome and thanks for the comment
Lewis Razors
Your welcome mate.👍🍺⛏🇦🇺
what would you say is the best length and width for the blade?
3 inches or a little less for length, the width just depends on what you like. I like my 5/8" blades and I like my 1" blades it just depends on my mood,
@@lewisrazors ok, thank you
Why are you grinding the blade with the edge down? is the first time I see this upside down grinding. I might try it in my next razor.
Regards.
Two of my friends, both very talented, one a knife maker, one a razor maker both grind edge down. After seeing Bruno from Snail Forge grind a razor edge down (his grinding is awesome) I decided to give it a try. I tend to grind edge up near the spine, and edge down while thinning the blade behind the edge. It is just another method, both ways work.
Thank you for leaving in the scrapped blades. To me, it shows the skill involved in making the razor. Its never as easy as most videos make it out to be. Nice finished piece as well.
You are welcome, thanks for the feedback
Beautiful looking razor mate, i would be proud to own such a fine instrument. It's damn near perfect
Thank you for the kind words
Thanks for another great instructional video.
You gave me an excellent idea of what to do with all these broken drills I got laying around. ;)
I like the little drill chuck mounted like that, I have used it for numerous things.
a jewelers saw would be handy and way safer to saw small pieces. you can buy many sizes of blades and they will cut steel . I use a piece of hard wood with a notch cut in it, screwed to a table with the notch sticking out, to cut with the jewelers saw. the saw makes a very fine cut and easy to control.
Great comment, I need to use my jewelers saw more often. Thank You
I still have a couple of blades made in the 1870’s that I cleaned up and made new handles for. It really surprised me how fine the blades where made back then.
I agree with you some of my favorite shavers are 1850-ish Sheffield's.
Thanks for showing all the things that went wrong along the way....keep um coming....
Lee
Thanks for the feedback and encouragement
where do you sell your razors at? I have been wanting to buy a new one.
I need to make some more razors, I have been busy with other things.
Thanx -started blade / blacksmithing as a hobby and this video helps a lot !
I am glad you found the video helpful, best of luck with your razor making. The Black Bear Forge channel has helped me a lot with my black smithing skills.
You have such a practiced hand. I admit to being a little jealous...
But on the other hand I have ruined a lot more blades than you :) I visited some knife maker friends last week it was the same thing, I was jealous of their forging and grinding, The grass is always greener on blah blah blah. Thanks for the comment.
Wonderful work Charlie, you have a very high level of skill Mr Lewis.
Thank you very much, it means a lot coming from you.
can i buy a belt grinder like the one you got or i have to make it my self?..great job by the way!
It is a home made grinder. If you look for 2x72 grinder plans on the internet you can find plenty.
Hello. Congratulations on the video. What is the diameter of the sander contact wheel you used in the video at 8:38 minutes? Thank you. Luiz (Brazil).
That is a 4 inch diameter wheel. You are welcome from Texas
Lewis Razors Thanks.....
A true work of art, well done sir 👍
Without the odd failure we'd never improve!
Thanks for the kind words
Beautiful job! How do you treat the razor against rust?
I keep my razors dry, and in a box when not in use. I do not have problems with rust. I make sure the blade is dry before storing.
Excellent and top much work
Thank you
Thank you kindly for your reply
Some really fine craftmanship there!... Gorgeous razor!
Thank you
Thanks for the video, lots of cool little tips and tricks you showed.
Glad you liked it.
the chuck welded to the square tube in the vice is pure genius, i salute you sir!
I like the chuck welded up like that also, I saw it in a friends shop and copied the idea.
I enjoy watching your work
Thank you
Looks like your blade failed in the quench because of a Stress Point. From what I can tell there are very rough grinding lines on the steel. Would it be worth a try to polish them out before heat treating and see what happens? When I make a Spring for a rifle all lines are in the direction of the spring and I go to 600 grit for the polish. I was happy to see you file and using a file properly. My old Boss would be proud of you!
You are right and spot on. I usually go back to 36 or 60 grit after heat treat, I leave my edges thick. I hate to take the time to go up in grits, just for heat treat. I get away with the coarse scratches more that 9 out of 10 times. It just happened to break while I had the camera on it.
Thank you for your comments, they were appreciated.
Just thinking that the purpose of polishing the blade would be to convert the Sharp V Grooves from grinding to more of a Rounded Washboard Surface. So maybe forget about going "Up through the grades" and just hit the surface with about a 320 grit wheel. That may help remove the start of stress cracks. Wish I knew more but right now I am trying to understand Women, Ha!
That's a good looking razor.
Thank you
I was so glad you showed that mistakes aswell.. to be honest when you said water quench.. I thought... Noooo!!! 😀 Still in the end.. a beautiful razor👍🏻
I appreciate your comments
Lewis Razors I'm also gonna try that pinning method.
When I first saw it at a meet, I thought is was silly, but now I have to eat my words, I like the method. Give it a try and see if it works for you.
How much for one?
ok
👍🏻👍🏻
Подари такую бритву мне.
why don't you convert over to a waste oil burner?
I have thought about, but have not tried an oil burner.
Amazing I like your video greetings from Serbia!
Thank you for you comment, greetings from Texas
@@lewisrazors nice videos, any updates soon?
Beautiful as always, I can only drool.
Ha, I drool also,
what type of steel do you use please/
It is W2 tool steel
VERY GOOD WORK...MY FRIEND !!!
Thank you for the kind words ,
That was awesome. Nice piece.
Thank you
Can i buy one of yours dude?
I need to make some more razors.
que material es la cacha de la navaja
The handles were made of micarta. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Micarta
que material é esse do cabo?
W2 tool steel
Absolutely gorgeous
Thank you
Great Work 👌 👌 👍
Thank you
awesome razor
Thank you
Awesome video.
Thank you
great job
Thank you
perfect job
Thank you
Good job
Thank you
Wow
Thanks
عمل رائع جدا
Thank you
Хорошая бритва!!!
Thank you
😉
:) Thanks
it was so beautiful. which steel
It is W2 tool steel