Any updates on how this worked for you? I have a similar setup without the Ranco. I have a 56000 L inground pool with a 300k Stainless steel tube heat exchanger. This is heated with my outdoor wood boiler. I am finding that it is not really heating up well. I have a 2hp pump and am wondering if the pool water is pumping thru to quick. Boiler is at 165F
I've done quite a few pool heaters this way. They heat up at about 1/2 to 1 degree F per hour depending on pool size, flow rates, weather, etc. Reducing the flow rate on the pool side is not going to help it heat up better. The more flow you have the quicker the btu's will transfer. A couple of possibilities, you could have air trapped in the stove side of the pool heater. I don't know what size pump you have or what distance you're pumping from the stove, so there may be other issues also. I would need to know a bit of detail to start troubleshooting.
@@YoderOutdoorFurnacesLLC Thanks for the quick reply. The boiler pump is on the back of the stove. So 60' into the house, goes thru a 70 plate heat exchanger that also heats the house water, then out to the pool about 100' away. So the boiler pump is circulating thru aprox 160' of 1" pex and the 70 plate heat exchanger before getting to the pool. I figured there was enough heat at the pool because you can barely touch the inlet side of the pool heat exchanger because it is so hot. You can also feel less heat on the outlet side so it appears to be transferring heat to the pool. Maybe I need to run a separate pump on the pool side of the heat exchanger
Is there any way to set a probe directly into the pool water to shut off the circulation pump when the pool gets to hot and turns back on when it drops down to a certain temp to turn the circulation pump back on so as to not burn as much wood yet keep the pool at steady temp. I have a 24 round above ground with a large central boiler with a 300k tube and shell heat exchanger. Not sure the ranco deal would work for me. Any help would be greatly appreciated!. Thanks
A Ranco would hold it within 1 degree. I just tape the probe to the pool piping with foil tape and insulate it. It reads very close. The Ranco switches on and off the power to the pump to maintain even temp in the pool.
@@YoderOutdoorFurnacesLLC I guess I'm confused because the pool pipe going into the return jet is close to 185 degrees and drops down when my stove temp drops down so how would I get a consent temp read when my plumbing is changing all the time
True, you are correct. The problem in this scenario is that technically an open unpressurized system (such as this) wouldn't be a boiler either. The correct term would be a hydronic heater, but nobody knows what that is.
@@YoderOutdoorFurnacesLLC Not sure I agree that just because it's an open system it isn't a boiler adding the heat. Not all boilers make steam, and not all systems are closed loop. Fact still remains that the heat exchanger is either designed for air (furnace) or water (boiler). By definition a boiler is an appliance that heats water, not necessarily building pressure (of course this is a consequence in a closed loop, but not the sole purpose).
@@YoderOutdoorFurnacesLLC While I have your attention - for a salt water pool with chlorine generator (so not ocean water), is 306 stainless ok or absolutely go with a titanium heat exchanger? It's not like they make any pool heaters with titanium heat exchangers, so I'm wondering if a stainless tube heat exchanger would last say 10 plus years. I'm tired of sh*t atmospheric burner pool heaters with time bomb control panels.
![Is BIGGER Better? [Firewood Size For Outdoor Wood Boiler] - Why Split Wood For A Large Boiler?](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/h394VENnbMY/mqdefault.jpg)
Any updates on how this worked for you? I have a similar setup without the Ranco. I have a 56000 L inground pool with a 300k Stainless steel tube heat exchanger. This is heated with my outdoor wood boiler. I am finding that it is not really heating up well. I have a 2hp pump and am wondering if the pool water is pumping thru to quick. Boiler is at 165F
I've done quite a few pool heaters this way. They heat up at about 1/2 to 1 degree F per hour depending on pool size, flow rates, weather, etc.
Reducing the flow rate on the pool side is not going to help it heat up better. The more flow you have the quicker the btu's will transfer.
A couple of possibilities, you could have air trapped in the stove side of the pool heater. I don't know what size pump you have or what distance you're pumping from the stove, so there may be other issues also. I would need to know a bit of detail to start troubleshooting.
@@YoderOutdoorFurnacesLLC Thanks for the quick reply. The boiler pump is on the back of the stove. So 60' into the house, goes thru a 70 plate heat exchanger that also heats the house water, then out to the pool about 100' away. So the boiler pump is circulating thru aprox 160' of 1" pex and the 70 plate heat exchanger before getting to the pool. I figured there was enough heat at the pool because you can barely touch the inlet side of the pool heat exchanger because it is so hot. You can also feel less heat on the outlet side so it appears to be transferring heat to the pool. Maybe I need to run a separate pump on the pool side of the heat exchanger
Is there any way to set a probe directly into the pool water to shut off the circulation pump when the pool gets to hot and turns back on when it drops down to a certain temp to turn the circulation pump back on so as to not burn as much wood yet keep the pool at steady temp. I have a 24 round above ground with a large central boiler with a 300k tube and shell heat exchanger. Not sure the ranco deal would work for me. Any help would be greatly appreciated!. Thanks
A Ranco would hold it within 1 degree. I just tape the probe to the pool piping with foil tape and insulate it. It reads very close. The Ranco switches on and off the power to the pump to maintain even temp in the pool.
@@YoderOutdoorFurnacesLLC I guess I'm confused because the pool pipe going into the return jet is close to 185 degrees and drops down when my stove temp drops down so how would I get a consent temp read when my plumbing is changing all the time
My heat exchanger is between the sand filter and the pool return
@@jaredrohde3246 yes, that sounds like it should work. Just tape the probe on before the heat exchanger.
does the heat exchanger have to be vertical??
No, it's just how it worked out best in this situation.
Furnaces heat air, boilers heat water. Sorry I'm in the HVAC business so this is a pet peeve of mine. :o)
True, you are correct. The problem in this scenario is that technically an open unpressurized system (such as this) wouldn't be a boiler either. The correct term would be a hydronic heater, but nobody knows what that is.
@@YoderOutdoorFurnacesLLC Not sure I agree that just because it's an open system it isn't a boiler adding the heat. Not all boilers make steam, and not all systems are closed loop. Fact still remains that the heat exchanger is either designed for air (furnace) or water (boiler). By definition a boiler is an appliance that heats water, not necessarily building pressure (of course this is a consequence in a closed loop, but not the sole purpose).
I have found definitions of boiler that do say "enclosed vessel", so maybe we can just agree to disagree. ha!
@@brianlarose6110 sure, that makes sense. :)
@@YoderOutdoorFurnacesLLC While I have your attention - for a salt water pool with chlorine generator (so not ocean water), is 306 stainless ok or absolutely go with a titanium heat exchanger? It's not like they make any pool heaters with titanium heat exchangers, so I'm wondering if a stainless tube heat exchanger would last say 10 plus years. I'm tired of sh*t atmospheric burner pool heaters with time bomb control panels.