Literally have ‘03 RSX-S and ‘08 RDX and am seriously debating pulling motor for budget turbs. Budget hatch is my favorite build ever from you guys! Keep the content coming!
I just took possession of a 2013 manual transmission cr-z yesterday just so I can k swap or j swap it in the future just because of this show but gonna have fun with the stock engine for now.
One Thing I don't see a lot of people doing, or doing correctly with these FWD Hondas, is setting up their coilovers, or springs + dampers, correctly... If you make the damping stiffer in the rear, and softer in the front, it makes these FWD cars go from wheel spin machines to hooking 1st gear full throttle like it is an AWD car (To a point obviously). This also makes the cars handle infinitely better, it has a similar effect to that of a larger rear sway bar, to the point where on my K24a Swapped FG2 SI I actually don't want a larger rear sway bar. This all is optimally coupled with a higher rear spring rate than in the front (2k-3k stiffer in rear), and spring rate will dictate how much damping you need for front / rear respectively... TBH it is definitely something that you dictate off of feel! If you have adjustable damping on your car try it out, there is a sweet spot for maximizing hooking and handling combined, and you will feel it when you take it too far! (Be aware though that this WILL make the car lean away from understeer and more towards steering neutral, or into oversteer, especially if you have a larger rear sway bar, but the fact that we are FWD, and naturally tend to understeer, it makes for an incredible driving experience if done correctly!) PS: Obviously there are different settings for different applications, but for general street driving this is the way to go IMO!
Depends on brand but sounds like you have a drag setup. With my autox GC/koni setup I ran the rebound 1/4 turn from Max and had similar front rear rates. Last thing I wanted is the shock to be lazy. Don't want the rear to stiff for street driving makes it sketchy to drive in the rain. Sway bars are very easy to unhook after the track or autox event. They also help tie the car together and limit roll. The front Sway bar is another story as it hurts low speed turning.
@@duanebailey6253 yeah so I never said you wanted the shock to be lazy or overly tight, I said "there is a sweet spot" for it, but definitely softer up front and stiffer in the rear. I remember when I had buddy club N+ it was the difference of 2 clicks from front the rear that did it. And I drive my car on freeway at 80+ in heavy rain and it stays planted and confident, I have to remind myself to slow down tbh, also I have pretty much 0 body roll. I can power slide 90* turns from a stop and it just stays flat. on your second comment - oh yeah totally, that's why I said "to a point obviously." but it is insane on my K24, if I leave the damping equal I will start spinning just putting my foot down a little bit while rolling, but when I do this little tuning trick I can launch hard in 1st and full hook.
Literally have ‘03 RSX-S and ‘08 RDX and am seriously debating pulling motor for budget turbs. Budget hatch is my favorite build ever from you guys! Keep the content coming!
Keep the fit stuff coming!!!!
I just took possession of a 2013 manual transmission cr-z yesterday just so I can k swap or j swap it in the future just because of this show but gonna have fun with the stock engine for now.
Gotta show us some content for the 90-93 Accord one day!
Tyre (tire) fryin Brian!
One Thing I don't see a lot of people doing, or doing correctly with these FWD Hondas, is setting up their coilovers, or springs + dampers, correctly... If you make the damping stiffer in the rear, and softer in the front, it makes these FWD cars go from wheel spin machines to hooking 1st gear full throttle like it is an AWD car (To a point obviously). This also makes the cars handle infinitely better, it has a similar effect to that of a larger rear sway bar, to the point where on my K24a Swapped FG2 SI I actually don't want a larger rear sway bar. This all is optimally coupled with a higher rear spring rate than in the front (2k-3k stiffer in rear), and spring rate will dictate how much damping you need for front / rear respectively... TBH it is definitely something that you dictate off of feel!
If you have adjustable damping on your car try it out, there is a sweet spot for maximizing hooking and handling combined, and you will feel it when you take it too far! (Be aware though that this WILL make the car lean away from understeer and more towards steering neutral, or into oversteer, especially if you have a larger rear sway bar, but the fact that we are FWD, and naturally tend to understeer, it makes for an incredible driving experience if done correctly!)
PS: Obviously there are different settings for different applications, but for general street driving this is the way to go IMO!
Depends on brand but sounds like you have a drag setup. With my autox GC/koni setup I ran the rebound 1/4 turn from Max and had similar front rear rates. Last thing I wanted is the shock to be lazy. Don't want the rear to stiff for street driving makes it sketchy to drive in the rain. Sway bars are very easy to unhook after the track or autox event. They also help tie the car together and limit roll. The front Sway bar is another story as it hurts low speed turning.
Also depends how power is being delivered. It's easy to get a stockish k24 to hookup. Once you get to 250-300 your spinning through Second.
@@duanebailey6253 yeah so I never said you wanted the shock to be lazy or overly tight, I said "there is a sweet spot" for it, but definitely softer up front and stiffer in the rear. I remember when I had buddy club N+ it was the difference of 2 clicks from front the rear that did it. And I drive my car on freeway at 80+ in heavy rain and it stays planted and confident, I have to remind myself to slow down tbh, also I have pretty much 0 body roll. I can power slide 90* turns from a stop and it just stays flat.
on your second comment - oh yeah totally, that's why I said "to a point obviously." but it is insane on my K24, if I leave the damping equal I will start spinning just putting my foot down a little bit while rolling, but when I do this little tuning trick I can launch hard in 1st and full hook.
BEAR IN MIND LOLOL THE SKULL HAHAHAH
my 91 crx si..is a20vtec gsr head. ycp hi comp itr pistons.arp studs..unopened vtec pcm,, 13.9 1/4 mile time on cheep street tires.
Another great video
Make that rd1 auto k swap happen
how about you guys take a j series automatic awd and make a straight line car.
Love Honda's had nos b18c5 ef hatch. my mustang auto 3v runs 8.9 1/8th with intake, exhaust and camms.
No swap needed.
Whats killing me is it's 1/8th mile 😅 would love to have seen this in 1/4 at the very least on a draggy
Do you guys know what all i would need to k20z3 head onto my k247z?
What about backmarker?
Never selling my em1 si
I thought I saw a vid at the drag strip with some J swapped car running something like 11’s in the quarter???
Federal makes an RS-pro that is just as cheap as the rs-rr and doesn’t make the crazy roadnoise.
Never selling my Fg2 Si Coupe.
Only 120k😅
Never selling my v6 6 speed turbo 7thgen accord
Where’s the 7th gen civic?
K swap a 4th gen ody!!
9.0 at 79mph 1/8 mile....b series for the win bahahahaha
I love the Video except for using God’s nam in vain.