This is EXACTLY the video i needed to see. I just bought a Framus Teambuilt Stormbender and I'm getting ready to put on a new set of strings at that exact guage. Thank you so much!! Subbed
I only want to say THANK YOU Nick!!!! I Have owned a Helix for about 8 months and have finally been able to Drag some metal tones from Hell out of its bowels in the last couple of months... Then I found your channel!! Level up Players!! Please Keep these videos coming; Thank you again for this valuable intel regarding Evertune and Helix.
Got my first Evertune today on a Solar A1.6 LH.....must say very impressed, and this vid is great help for what I wanna do with mine, change string gauge and tuning . Thanks Nick
Thank you! I was a little hesitant to go from a 46 to a 52 on my Solar and dropping a full step but so far so go thanks to your video. Much appreciated!
Nick Hill 🙌🙏 should be receiving my first guitar w an evertune in the next few days and I plan to change from the stock tuning and gauges so this was right on the money!
I have a tip for making tuning easier. Go to the neck pickup and turn the tone knob all the way down. Less harmonics to mess with the tuner. Try it out!
Yep, that's a little known trick, about as old as strobe tuners, but still holds true, even with digital tuners! I have been doing that since the early 80's when I started my guitar repair business, as well as telling customers to do it. Strange how so few people know it.
Great video man, thinking about purchasing one….do you have any advice on intonation and setting up the saddles for that…or does the evertune self intonate as well ?
I recently watched a video tutorial by Brad Angove on the subject of (guitar) paint drying. Your detail step-by-step guide to using Evertune was comparatively riveting, but what I'd really like is a deep dive disassembly of the Evertune magic box to truly understand how it works.
You didn't have to make any intonation adjustments with the third set of screws at the back of the bridge? When I changed from E standard down to B standard I had to move the saddles back to fix the intonation. I changed the stock strings on my 6 string ESP Eclipse to a set of 7 string NYXL and didn't use the 1st string. I wound up with 13-59 gauge. It wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. I absolutely love the Evertune.
Hi Nick, I just bought a Solar 1.6 and I love it. But the strings that came with it I removed and i installed a new set of EB 10-46 strings as I am pretty sure that's what the guitar came with. I removed all the strings and then installed each string one at a time. All the strings except the small E is not going into zone 2. I also notice that the saddle is move moving like the others are. What did I do wrong... all i want is for the string to enter zone2. thanks in advance.
Yikes! Drop A# on a 24.75 scale? Ballsy. Also, do a bit of research on the string tension and the evertune. You may run into some issues with that low of a tuning and the evertune being able to work! Good luck bro!
I had to change my strings, gauge, and tuning this week. I ran into a situation and after a couple of hours of pulling my hair out, I found the solution. I went from E Standard to Drop A, so everything needed to be touched down to the intonation and truss rod adjustment. When I put on a new string, the string kept acting like on a normal fixed bridge, I couldn't reach the zone 2 where you tune up but the pitch doesn't move. Also, the saddle tuning kept spinning up but nothing happened until I couldn't turn the key any longer. To solve this I had to completely slack the string with the tuning peg, then spin the saddle tunings key about 40 tunes down (counterclockwise) and then use the tuning peg to find zone 2. From there, the saddle tuners started working like they should. I know I explain that badly, but I hope it will help someone here.
You cannot tighten/loosen an adjustment thread forever, and it helps to understand that it's best to start with it in a good starting position. On regular fine tuners most people realize it when they obviously run out of thread, and learn to back them off before changing strings, so I am not sure why anyone wouldn't automatically assume that it wouldn't apply here too! Well, you found out the hard way. )
I'll probably have to watch this a few more times when I finally get a guitar with an Evertune just because at the moment the 3 zone tuning peg thing is a mindfuck for me. Lol but thank you for making this video!
My Dude! I'm glad you enjoyed it. I really do try and make these videos in such as way that they aren't too F'ng annoying to watch and still have some good information. Cheers
Hey this a helpful video. There is one question I think either I missed or just cant wrap my head around. When you string the guitar initially its normally 2-3steps down. Do you first need to keep tuning up the tuners to get to the required octave? I get that in DGCFAD for example, you get the strings to the required octave then drop it back sharp to keep the bend. But how many complete turns would you make on the tuners to get the correct octave? Like 5?
So I’m saving for an Ltd 8 string with evertune. Comes in F# standard with 9-65. Wanted to drop it to Drop E with a 9-80 set. Or possibly 10-74. Anyways I would just slap the strings on tune (using the bridge) to drop e, and then turn the tuners until it hits that zone 2 almost 3 ?
Correct. You’ll need to keep checking the timers as you drop the tuning at the evertune because as you lower pitch, it will put itself into a different zone, If that makes sense. You’ll see what I mean when you do it.
Nick, did you buy the guitar with the bridge on already? i may have one installed on my 2006 highway one Strat, the installation is pricey but if it comes with a good template i may ass a machinist I know to cnc for me.
Severs Solar models come with them stock. As are more and more Jackson’s, ESPs and LTds. Head to their website as well, they have several models for sale from various manufacturers
Glad I watched.... looking to purchase a solar baritone 27" scale & Evertune is the only bridge option... still trying to decide if this will be beneficial or more of a pain in the a##.
My Evertune guitar is currently set to D standard tuning and I want to move up to E Standard. Besides dropping the string gauge from 11s to 10s, and following your steps in this video; is there anything else I need to do? Great vid btw! 🤘🏽
I noticed your saddles were already set. How do we know how far in or out the saddles should be? I've reset my saddles for every string and have them set right in the middle of the cavity but I run out of room to tune when tuning with the bridge
Reset the saddles? The saddles have movement strictly to adjust the overall intonation. If you’re keeping the same string gauge/type, it’s should only be very minor adjustments needed. Sounds like you may be doing more work than you need to be. Study up on intonation, the process is the same for the evertune.
Hey dude, thank you SO MUCH for this video. I just purchased the 7 string version of your Solar and this video was a LIFE SAVER!! Just a thought, I'd love to see you create some tones with the Will Putney STL plugins. That's what I use myself. I'd love to see what you could do with that. THANK YOU AGAIN!!!
Before you get into this...please read the many comicatuons involved....it's very common that people struggle with this as seen below.... Any time you install a new string, or change gauges, you have to make sure that you constantly pull gently from the string as you tune up, because this balances the system. This “activates” zone 2. If done right, as you tune up, there will be a point where the pitch stays the same ,no matter how you keep turning up the tuner. This is Zone 2. Even if you bend the string , pitch won’t change. You’ll also know you are in Zone 2 because when you pull from the string , the saddle rocks back and forth slightly. If the saddle is completely stuck and doesn’t move at all , you either out of the range of the spring module, or you need to “reset” it (continue reading). In case the pitch goes up as you turn the tuning peg to the point where the string is just about to break, remove the string and “reset” the saddle, making sure that the tuning screw is halfway of its travel. If you keep tuning up, there will be a moment where pitch will go up again. That’s Zone 3 , where you can bend the strings again. Once Zone 3 has been reached, detune the string right to the point where it goes up in pitch. In case you tune up and you can’t reach “Zone 2”, and the string just goes up in pitch like it would do on a regular guitar, it’s because of the following: You have not been pulling from the string while tuning it up to tension The tuning screw is at either end of its travel and needs to be “reset” (set it on the middle of it’s travel length and start all over again . DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREW AS YOU MIGHT BREAK IT. Because of your specific tuning / string gauge you need either a lower / higher tension spring module. Please check the String Tension Calculator to make sure that your current spring module is able to handle that specific tuning and string gauge
You know how new strings take a day or so to stretch out and will go out of tune a bunch at first? Does the evertune eliminate this? Do you pre stretch your strings like normal or?
Still a good idea to prestretch. It’s not nearly an issue though and most often I don’t need to make any adjustments but that being said, neck movement due to weather sometimes lend itself to having to make some small adjustments time and again.
Thanks a lot for making this. Do you think the high tension springs will help make a low tuning feel more tight ? I asked Evertune but they have not gotten back to me. I know the string gauge plays a part, but I’m talking about tightness and feel of the strings. What do you think?
Depends on what you are trying to tune to. I know they make saddles for the evertune that have more tension if you are looking to tune lower. I do believe I read something on their site. You don’t want to tune too low with this scale length anyhow. I tune to drop C. That’s the lowest I’d personally go
Nick Hill ok great, thanks for the reply. They said in their response the same thing about the scale length. I’m not sure i understand how it would affect intonation
Nick Hill I guess I thought the Evertune would help it intonate better. So it only helps with tuning, not intonation. And the spring tension won’t affect the tension of the strings then. Not what I expected but I’m learning. Thanks a lot for explaining that
Hi Nick. I am trying to set the intonation with an evertune bridge. On two of the strings, the saddle is as far as I can get it toward the head stock, but I need just a bit more. Is there a way to deal with this?
Do you have to loosen the fine tuners on the saddles a bit when changing strings ? And then tighten them into tune after strings are on, or you just leave them alone? Thanks 🤘🏼
Great video man, learned a lot. Guess I should have looked into the Evertune a bit more before buying guitars with it. It's great until time to change strings. Not a good idea for my busy schedule to restring one I reckon.
I have a Floyd Rose and I just take it to a luthier to re-string. He also checks the guitar health and can adjust things I wouldn't dare touch so its a win win.
This video is great! However I think my evertune was installed incorrectly.. I got the mark Holcomb PRS 7 and the bridge itself is off 1/4 inch so the bridge is sadly buried into the body on one side and has a huge gap on the other.. Evertune feels horrible and is replacing it so in the mean time I wanted to get familiar with this bridge so when the new one gets here I’ll know what I’m doing ... well I followed your video to to T but I cannot get the center 3 strings in the bridge to get into the “ action zone “ the top two and bottom two did it just fine but I’ve spent 3 hours on this thing doing everything I can and they won’t function properly. It came from Evertune in standard E setup (10-64) with A for the low 7. I put bigger strings on and wanted to drop tune the guitar a full step.. C standard , 13-74. Again the center 3 stings that interacts with the bridge just won’t activate the “ active zone” they just keep turning till the pegs are maxed out and for the life of me I just don’t get it. I’m a Floyd Rose PRO. Can do a full swap in 15 min so it’s not my skill set.. I truthfully think this bridge wasn’t probably installed correctly and that’s why I’m not getting anywhere with these damn 3 center strings :(
you'd want to do it the opposite way. Example, I'm tuned to Drop C and if I want to go to D standard, I just use the tuning peg like normal and tune up to D
Oh I see. I set all my guitars to drop D and use a drop tune pedal basically like a pitch shifter to play in different tunings without having to mess around with the guitar. I play floyds so tuning the low E string up or down isn't that simple with the bridge. For a 7 string though I want to get one that's not a floyd and would consider an evertune. Thanks for the input bro!
@@NickHillMakesMusic I see! But that won't mean any strings that bump loose if you want to downtune in zone 2 with the evertune? I mean it's only a quarter turn to tighten them. Hope you understand what I mean since english is not my first language.
I see a lot of players on YT using Solar guitars, can you talk about the popular choices for metal and why people choose Solar specifically? Another idea would be to talk about setting up a home studio, it looks like the cloth does its job, I work from home and was thinking I could do something similar because I just like silence. Also I enjoy people trying to replicate band tones using Helix, I don't see enough of these on UA-cam.
To change to a higher gauge strings for example 9s to 10s and to drop tune from E standard to full step down would i need to change the tuning first before changing to the new gauge set???
@@NickHillMakesMusic i appreciate your answer man! I have 2 more questions, would i have to adjust the intonation after I change gauge and tuning? And 2nd, what is that thing you have over the nut when you're about to take off your strings?
i would love to try and Evertune bridge but nowhere near i live there are some guitar with that, and it feels to me more for "professional" musician... for my case i prefer use Fixed bridge and locking tuners. Because also i can Repair it Easly. But Evertune is a Fantastic invention :D
So say if my Evertune came in standard D tuning and I wanted to change it to E standard, would I just have to get lighter strings and mess with the tuning? I tried just tuning from the saddle but could barely get to E flat.
Nice video. I would like to ask you a question. I recently bought a Solar Guitar and I found the pitch changes a few cents from non bending mode to bending mode. Also it changes a a few cents when I palm mute. Is this normal?
To be even more precise take the tool out of the evertune every time you make a a micro adjustment. Keeping the tool in while making adjustments makes a slight difference. Also tune it to the initial pitch of the pick attack, not the decay of the note.
I’m in drop C my Dude. I have tuned down and it does well. You’ll need to consider tuning with tension and whether you’ll need to explore evertunes additional options of floating saddles as they do have 3 tension options. Do some research
Interesting :) Waiting on my first Evertune guitar to arrive and i'm curious as you started the video by saying that since your strings were old that they weren't staying in tune anymore. How old/bad do the strings have to be before even Evertune can't keep them in tune?
The tuning was wavering slightly enough for me to notice. I have very acid sweat and strings don’t stand up against that for more than a couple weeks. Again, it’s not like the guitar is falling massively out of tune, it’s just stability. Once I changes my strings, things were fine
@@TheJMan1K I don't have all the details, but changing the strings shouldn't prevent proper intonation. I also changed string gauges and was able to intonate with no issues.
Evertune , I'm not so sure I like mine. Bit of a learning curve. I've broke two strings and I can't exactly tell if Im at stage 3. I just want a mild bend, although no bend...
That’s a bummer man. I’ve had zero issues with any of mine and essentially prefer them on all of my guitars. There are a bunch of videos that may be helpful from evertune and even Ola Englund. Best of luck
According to the Evertune website, you might need a different saddle altogether depending on your guitar and which gauge of strings you decide to go with. I copied the link below. www.evertune.com/resources/string_tension_gauge_calculator.php
Yep, they have different saddles for tension I don’t need it with this gauge. I wouldn’t Go much higher than what I’m using now if at all. Thanks for sharing my dude!
To tune a string, put the saddle in Zone 2, as covered in Step 1, and then use the EverTune hex key to adjust the tension of the saddle. Insert the EverTune hex key into the tuning hole (Fig. 3) and then turn it clockwise to increase the pitch and counter-clockwise to decrease the pitch. Always remove the key before checking the tune, You don't tune the string in Zone 3, fine tuning is fine. This isn't the correct way
No one is tuning in zone 3 and if I misspoke, that is one thing but I tried to demonstrate what the zones are and do. I’ve had this guitar for a year and have made multiple string changes so am confident I’m not doing it wrong on account of the guitar always being in tune in zone 3 and my ability to bend when I’m up against zone 3.
Rust and oxidation can impact the weight of a string and per evertunes FAQ, can knock tuning out 5-15 cents as more rust is added to strings. It’s why they also suggest coated strings. To minimize the effect. I have VERY acidic sweat so... rust and oxidation
No problem! For what it’s worth, I am a true fan of the evertune. It is light years ahead of its time. As primarily a rhythm player, I appreciate it so much
Nick Hill I am primarily a rhythm player as well, and just received my first evertune equipped guitar today. Thanks a ton for the videos and response! It really helps alleviate the uncertainty associated with a new piece of gear like this.
hahhaha funny man. wow i would prob never change gauge if I had an evertune bridge. pain in the butt for sure. btw you forgot to add the "thats what she said" for the ending when you said "...if you stuck in this long...." hahahhaha enjoy your axe. great stuff. Im still confused but I guess you have to try it yourself to get it. practice makes perfect. wish I had one but dont.
wait wait.. you said you've had your strings on for a while so they don't hold the tuning. Even with an evertune bridge?? how? My understanding is that even after 2 years it should keep your guitar in tune.
Do you need to get a pro set up on a new guitar that has Evertune ? I asked my local guitar shop tech if he can setup an evertune-equipped guitar and he didn't even know what it was :(
@@NickHillMakesMusic I can do everything myself but I'm scared of messing with the truss rod. I guess a brand new guitar (and I mean brand new like nobody has ever played this guitar since it's coming from a warehouse) shouldn't even need a truss rod adjustment right?
Sometimes I change strings (to the same set and guage) and one string wont tune up to pitch. It will be flat and I will have no more travel on my tuning screw (on the saddle) What do??? This is the one thing that I hate about this bridge.
Your setting tension with the tuning pegs. You use the evertune tool down at the bridge to adjust tuning. There are several videos about the process. This bridge is perfect once you understand it. It takes practice. Good luck!
I don't have that issue as I replace my strings one by one. "The higher the gauge the higher the tension": that means you need to adjust your truss rod as well as your intonation. What you've done is not enough!
I'm not sure that’s correct my dude. Adjusting the truss rod has nothing to do with the amount of tension but everything to do with the “bow,” in the neck created by said tension. And counteracting it. Also... my intonation was fine. Spot on even. By simply going from a 52 (my usual gauge at this point) to the 56 (I used in the video) the tension at this scale length goes from 13.25 lbs to 19.9 lbs. I'm curious about your insistence on me not having, “done enough,” in your words.
TRUSS rod was was bang on but thanks for the concern my guy. Five year Ago Nick is much appreciative. Also, and I made this joke in a recent video… I do stretch strings. Don’t think THAT step was needed for an evertune video so I guess every painstaking detail needs to be in videos for ya. I get it. I didn’t show you how to plug the guitar into the helix or access the tuner but I assume you or most, can figure that out. All jokes aside, thanks for the comment and engagement. This 5 year old video appreciates you.
This is EXACTLY the video i needed to see.
I just bought a Framus Teambuilt Stormbender and I'm getting ready to put on a new set of strings at that exact guage.
Thank you so much!!
Subbed
a lot of people don't go on youtube for entertainment and instead use it for information. Great video.
I only want to say THANK YOU Nick!!!! I Have owned a Helix for about 8 months and have finally been able to Drag some metal tones from Hell out of its bowels in the last couple of months... Then I found your channel!! Level up Players!! Please Keep these videos coming; Thank you again for this valuable intel regarding Evertune and Helix.
Just wanted to add I luv my evertune… That's what she said... Original Ola Washburn Solar 7 String.
Got my first Evertune today on a Solar A1.6 LH.....must say very impressed, and this vid is great help for what I wanna do with mine, change string gauge and tuning . Thanks Nick
Glad I'm able to help man
I’m setting up an 8 string with an Evertune with flat wound strings. This video was really helpful. Thank you!
Good luck Friend. Happy to help
Thanks for the in-depth video. Just got my first Evertune Solar! 🎉
Glad to help my friend
Thank you! I was a little hesitant to go from a 46 to a 52 on my Solar and dropping a full step but so far so go thanks to your video. Much appreciated!
Just recently got an Evertune bridge myself on my LTD 7 string. This helped a ton! Thanks dude!
VahanSolo awesome to hear man! Glad it helped.
I TOTALLY MISSED THIS ONE! Not boring AT ALL!
The Bunn is always stoked
Its funny setting up guitars and those things
Super, super helpful and not at all boring - appreciate your taking the time! 🙏
Dude! Glad it helped. Cheers man
Nick Hill 🙌🙏 should be receiving my first guitar w an evertune in the next few days and I plan to change from the stock tuning and gauges so this was right on the money!
I have a tip for making tuning easier. Go to the neck pickup and turn the tone knob all the way down. Less harmonics to mess with the tuner. Try it out!
Awesome man! I’ll have to give this a shot. Thanks for sharing
Yep, that's a little known trick, about as old as strobe tuners, but still holds true, even with digital tuners! I have been doing that since the early 80's when I started my guitar repair business, as well as telling customers to do it. Strange how so few people know it.
Buying a Solar here soon. So this video helped. Thanks man.
Thank you!! This video was beyond helpful!!
Great video man, thinking about purchasing one….do you have any advice on intonation and setting up the saddles for that…or does the evertune self intonate as well ?
I recently watched a video tutorial by Brad Angove on the subject of (guitar) paint drying. Your detail step-by-step guide to using Evertune was comparatively riveting, but what I'd really like is a deep dive disassembly of the Evertune magic box to truly understand how it works.
Awesome Video! Very well explained.
If you understand the function of the bridge, it’s really an enrichment
You didn't have to make any intonation adjustments with the third set of screws at the back of the bridge? When I changed from E standard down to B standard I had to move the saddles back to fix the intonation. I changed the stock strings on my 6 string ESP Eclipse to a set of 7 string NYXL and didn't use the 1st string. I wound up with 13-59 gauge. It wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. I absolutely love the Evertune.
Nope. No intonation adjustments needed as this guitar came tuned to D Standard stock
Ah well isn't that nice!! Haha
Yeah. I play in drop C so very, VERY little adjustment at all
...if she said that too, congratulations. Now I can not leave this vid without liking 😂👌
Hi Nick, I just bought a Solar 1.6 and I love it. But the strings that came with it I removed and i installed a new set of EB 10-46 strings as I am pretty sure that's what the guitar came with. I removed all the strings and then installed each string one at a time. All the strings except the small E is not going into zone 2. I also notice that the saddle is move moving like the others are. What did I do wrong... all i want is for the string to enter zone2. thanks in advance.
Excellent video. Just saved me a whole lotta stress!!!
Talk about all the hex holes and what they do. Also how to set up the evertune for a specific tuning. Thanks 👍
I just bought an LTD ec1000 with evertune. I'm rediculously pumped about it.. I'll be watching this when I go to put it in drop a sharp...
Yikes! Drop A# on a 24.75 scale? Ballsy. Also, do a bit of research on the string tension and the evertune. You may run into some issues with that low of a tuning and the evertune being able to work! Good luck bro!
@@NickHillMakesMusic I'm for sure going to look into it. I keep my LTD explorer in a# with no issues. Strings are daddario 13-62 also..
I'm just here watching this video and getting hyped for my guitar (Ibanez Prestige 852 8 string) to come back from Evertune!
11-56 is the beeeeest
I had to change my strings, gauge, and tuning this week. I ran into a situation and after a couple of hours of pulling my hair out, I found the solution. I went from E Standard to Drop A, so everything needed to be touched down to the intonation and truss rod adjustment. When I put on a new string, the string kept acting like on a normal fixed bridge, I couldn't reach the zone 2 where you tune up but the pitch doesn't move. Also, the saddle tuning kept spinning up but nothing happened until I couldn't turn the key any longer. To solve this I had to completely slack the string with the tuning peg, then spin the saddle tunings key about 40 tunes down (counterclockwise) and then use the tuning peg to find zone 2. From there, the saddle tuners started working like they should. I know I explain that badly, but I hope it will help someone here.
You cannot tighten/loosen an adjustment thread forever, and it helps to understand that it's best to start with it in a good starting position. On regular fine tuners most people realize it when they obviously run out of thread, and learn to back them off before changing strings, so I am not sure why anyone wouldn't automatically assume that it wouldn't apply here too! Well, you found out the hard way. )
I'll probably have to watch this a few more times when I finally get a guitar with an Evertune just because at the moment the 3 zone tuning peg thing is a mindfuck for me. Lol but thank you for making this video!
This video is actually more entertaining than ones that are created with the purpose to be fun and entertaining hahah
My Dude! I'm glad you enjoyed it. I really do try and make these videos in such as way that they aren't too F'ng annoying to watch and still have some good information. Cheers
What about stretching the new strings on the Evertune?
Thanks man! I've watched it until the end.
Thank you so much brother :)
Thank you so much! You really helped me understand my evertune :)
Glad to help!!
Would 9-72 gauge in drop E on an 8 string work?
Hey this a helpful video. There is one question I think either I missed or just cant wrap my head around. When you string the guitar initially its normally 2-3steps down. Do you first need to keep tuning up the tuners to get to the required octave? I get that in DGCFAD for example, you get the strings to the required octave then drop it back sharp to keep the bend. But how many complete turns would you make on the tuners to get the correct octave? Like 5?
When you are lowering the action do you have to reintonate the guitar? How about adjusting the truss rod?
You should always check intonation on any guitar when adjusting these things. Same applies here
So I’m saving for an Ltd 8 string with evertune. Comes in F# standard with 9-65. Wanted to drop it to Drop E with a 9-80 set. Or possibly 10-74. Anyways I would just slap the strings on tune (using the bridge) to drop e, and then turn the tuners until it hits that zone 2 almost 3 ?
Correct. You’ll need to keep checking the timers as you drop the tuning at the evertune because as you lower pitch, it will put itself into a different zone, If that makes sense. You’ll see what I mean when you do it.
Nick, did you buy the guitar with the bridge on already? i may have one installed on my 2006 highway one Strat, the installation is pricey but if it comes with a good template i may ass a machinist I know to cnc for me.
Severs Solar models come with them stock. As are more and more Jackson’s, ESPs and LTds. Head to their website as well, they have several models for sale from various manufacturers
Glad I watched.... looking to purchase a solar baritone 27" scale & Evertune is the only bridge option... still trying to decide if this will be beneficial or more of a pain in the a##.
the evertune is in NO WAY a pain my dude. Once you wrap your head around how it's working, its a breeze. Seriously
My Evertune guitar is currently set to D standard tuning and I want to move up to E Standard. Besides dropping the string gauge from 11s to 10s, and following your steps in this video; is there anything else I need to do?
Great vid btw! 🤘🏽
I noticed your saddles were already set. How do we know how far in or out the saddles should be? I've reset my saddles for every string and have them set right in the middle of the cavity but I run out of room to tune when tuning with the bridge
Reset the saddles? The saddles have movement strictly to adjust the overall intonation. If you’re keeping the same string gauge/type, it’s should only be very minor adjustments needed. Sounds like you may be doing more work than you need to be. Study up on intonation, the process is the same for the evertune.
Hey dude, thank you SO MUCH for this video. I just purchased the 7 string version of your Solar and this video was a LIFE SAVER!! Just a thought, I'd love to see you create some tones with the Will Putney STL plugins. That's what I use myself. I'd love to see what you could do with that. THANK YOU AGAIN!!!
Glad I was able to help man. I’ll check out the plugin! Cheers
Hey Nick, I'm thinking about sending a guitar to Evertune to have them install a bridge... Do you REALLY like it that much? Worth it?
Yo! Curtis! I do love it. No exaggeration, no hyperbole, For me, the reliability and consistency is absolutely worth it
Would be useful if I could ear the sound coming from the guitar whiles getting in tune, but I think I understand how this system works.
Before you get into this...please read the many comicatuons involved....it's very common that people struggle with this as seen below....
Any time you install a new string, or change gauges, you have to make sure that you constantly pull gently from the string as you tune up, because this balances the system. This “activates” zone 2.
If done right, as you tune up, there will be a point where the pitch stays the same ,no matter how you keep turning up the tuner. This is Zone 2. Even if you bend the string , pitch won’t change. You’ll also know you are in Zone 2 because when you pull from the string , the saddle rocks back and forth slightly. If the saddle is completely stuck and doesn’t move at all , you either out of the range of the spring module, or you need to “reset” it (continue reading).
In case the pitch goes up as you turn the tuning peg to the point where the string is just about to break, remove the string and “reset” the saddle, making sure that the tuning screw is halfway of its travel.
If you keep tuning up, there will be a moment where pitch will go up again. That’s Zone 3 , where you can bend the strings again. Once Zone 3 has been reached, detune the string right to the point where it goes up in pitch.
In case you tune up and you can’t reach “Zone 2”, and the string just goes up in pitch like it would do on a regular guitar, it’s because of the following:
You have not been pulling from the string while tuning it up to tension
The tuning screw is at either end of its travel and needs to be “reset” (set it on the middle of it’s travel length and start all over again . DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREW AS YOU MIGHT BREAK IT.
Because of your specific tuning / string gauge you need either a lower / higher tension spring module. Please check the String Tension Calculator to make sure that your current spring module is able to handle that specific tuning and string gauge
What?
How do you find out if the tuning screw is at the middle of its travel length 😭
You know how new strings take a day or so to stretch out and will go out of tune a bunch at first? Does the evertune eliminate this? Do you pre stretch your strings like normal or?
Still a good idea to prestretch. It’s not nearly an issue though and most often I don’t need to make any adjustments but that being said, neck movement due to weather sometimes lend itself to having to make some small adjustments time and again.
Nick Hill ok thanks for responding
Great video and very well explained. I have a question: Do you get any spring noise with an Evertune guitar? If so, any way to fix that? Thanks!
Never had any issue
Thanks a lot for making this. Do you think the high tension springs will help make a low tuning feel more tight ? I asked Evertune but they have not gotten back to me. I know the string gauge plays a part, but I’m talking about tightness and feel of the strings. What do you think?
Depends on what you are trying to tune to. I know they make saddles for the evertune that have more tension if you are looking to tune lower. I do believe I read something on their site. You don’t want to tune too low with this scale length anyhow. I tune to drop C. That’s the lowest I’d personally go
Nick Hill ok great, thanks for the reply. They said in their response the same thing about the scale length. I’m not sure i understand how it would affect intonation
Scale length has everything to do with intonation my friend.
Nick Hill I guess I thought the Evertune would help it intonate better. So it only helps with tuning, not intonation. And the spring tension won’t affect the tension of the strings then. Not what I expected but I’m learning. Thanks a lot for explaining that
Nick Hill do you think tightening the tuning pegs will make the strings feel tighter ?
Hi Nick. I am trying to set the intonation with an evertune bridge. On two of the strings, the saddle is as far as I can get it toward the head stock, but I need just a bit more. Is there a way to deal with this?
Do you have to loosen the fine tuners on the saddles a bit when changing strings ? And then tighten them into tune after strings are on, or you just leave them alone? Thanks 🤘🏼
Nope. Just swap the strings. They may need some fine tuning adjustment after the new set is on
Nick Hill thanks man, I backed them off just to be careful not knowing. I have it set up in bend mode. Much appreciated
Can’t hurt. What model do you have? Glad I was able to help
Great video man, learned a lot. Guess I should have looked into the Evertune a bit more before buying guitars with it. It's great until time to change strings. Not a good idea for my busy schedule to restring one I reckon.
It’s really not as complicated as this restring was.
I have a Floyd Rose and I just take it to a luthier to re-string. He also checks the guitar health and can adjust things I wouldn't dare touch so its a win win.
you need to hire a guitar tech to do it for you :)
All the benefits of a floyd rose without the frustrations of one. Just got mine for Christmas and it’s the best idea anyone’s ever had lmao
This video is great! However I think my evertune was installed incorrectly.. I got the mark Holcomb PRS 7 and the bridge itself is off 1/4 inch so the bridge is sadly buried into the body on one side and has a huge gap on the other.. Evertune feels horrible and is replacing it so in the mean time I wanted to get familiar with this bridge so when the new one gets here I’ll know what I’m doing ... well I followed your video to to T but I cannot get the center 3 strings in the bridge to get into the “ action zone “ the top two and bottom two did it just fine but I’ve spent 3 hours on this thing doing everything I can and they won’t function properly. It came from Evertune in standard E setup (10-64) with A for the low 7. I put bigger strings on and wanted to drop tune the guitar a full step.. C standard , 13-74. Again the center 3 stings that interacts with the bridge just won’t activate the “ active zone” they just keep turning till the pegs are maxed out and for the life of me I just don’t get it. I’m a Floyd Rose PRO. Can do a full swap in 15 min so it’s not my skill set.. I truthfully think this bridge wasn’t probably installed correctly and that’s why I’m not getting anywhere with these damn 3 center strings :(
Can you drop tune the low E string for example from E standard to drop D without having trouble?
you'd want to do it the opposite way. Example, I'm tuned to Drop C and if I want to go to D standard, I just use the tuning peg like normal and tune up to D
@@NickHillMakesMusic ... and then can you tune your low string back down to C? Basically going back and forth between D standard and drop C.
Yeah, it’s easier to set up the guitar to be in drop c and just being up that strung to D I’d I want to
Oh I see. I set all my guitars to drop D and use a drop tune pedal basically like a pitch shifter to play in different tunings without having to mess around with the guitar. I play floyds so tuning the low E string up or down isn't that simple with the bridge. For a 7 string though I want to get one that's not a floyd and would consider an evertune. Thanks for the input bro!
sometimes a video of a dude changing his strings is exactly what u need lol
Wait, how did you lock the strings ? Other locking tuners I’ve seen have a screw underneath that you tighten before you wind the strings?
These locking tuners lock as you tighten them. Quite common. Look up Gotoh mini locking tuners
@@NickHillMakesMusic I see! But that won't mean any strings that bump loose if you want to downtune in zone 2 with the evertune? I mean it's only a quarter turn to tighten them. Hope you understand what I mean since english is not my first language.
Zone two is far more than a quarter turn from the point the strings are locked
Hi Nick, do you stretch the strings after replacing them with new ones?
Yep. I typically do a bit of string stretching as I’m restringing
I see a lot of players on YT using Solar guitars, can you talk about the popular choices for metal and why people choose Solar specifically?
Another idea would be to talk about setting up a home studio, it looks like the cloth does its job, I work from home and was thinking I could do something similar because I just like silence.
Also I enjoy people trying to replicate band tones using Helix, I don't see enough of these on UA-cam.
Very informative. Thanks!
To change to a higher gauge strings for example 9s to 10s and to drop tune from E standard to full step down would i need to change the tuning first before changing to the new gauge set???
I’m sure you can just swap the strings and tune it down to D standard.
@@NickHillMakesMusic i appreciate your answer man! I have 2 more questions, would i have to adjust the intonation after I change gauge and tuning? And 2nd, what is that thing you have over the nut when you're about to take off your strings?
To answer the 2nd question, it’s a fret wrap! It’s used to reduce unwanted string noise behind the nut
Thank you!
i would love to try and Evertune bridge but nowhere near i live there are some guitar with that, and it feels to me more for "professional" musician... for my case i prefer use Fixed bridge and locking tuners. Because also i can Repair it Easly.
But Evertune is a Fantastic invention :D
Up until this point, I’ve only ever used fixed bridges and locking tuners as well. So this is a nice step up. I really love it
Meh
So say if my Evertune came in standard D tuning and I wanted to change it to E standard, would I just have to get lighter strings and mess with the tuning? I tried just tuning from the saddle but could barely get to E flat.
www.evertune.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/UserManual02.pdf
Nice video.
I would like to ask you a question. I recently bought a Solar Guitar and I found the pitch changes a few cents from non bending mode to bending mode. Also it changes a a few cents when I palm mute. Is this normal?
I’ve never had any issues.
I have that too
To be even more precise take the tool out of the evertune every time you make a a micro adjustment. Keeping the tool in while making adjustments makes a slight difference. Also tune it to the initial pitch of the pick attack, not the decay of the note.
Fair point
Great Video! Have you tried tuning down to Drop C? does it stay in tune in lower tunings?
I’m in drop C my Dude. I have tuned down and it does well. You’ll need to consider tuning with tension and whether you’ll need to explore evertunes additional options of floating saddles as they do have 3 tension options. Do some research
@@NickHillMakesMusic Hey thanks!
If you grab one of the strings and pull them up and down it eliminates the tuning your E to G try it. It saves a lot of time
Interesting :) Waiting on my first Evertune guitar to arrive and i'm curious as you started the video by saying that since your strings were old that they weren't staying in tune anymore. How old/bad do the strings have to be before even Evertune can't keep them in tune?
The tuning was wavering slightly enough for me to notice. I have very acid sweat and strings don’t stand up against that for more than a couple weeks. Again, it’s not like the guitar is falling massively out of tune, it’s just stability. Once I changes my strings, things were fine
@@NickHillMakesMusic ever try Elixirs to help prevent this issue?
What tuner are you using?
Drop C
@@NickHillMakesMusic thank you, but I meant what tuner? Above the power conditioner?
That’s the built in tuner on the Helix Rack
Phew I’m gonna need a lot more Dunkin’ Donuts coffee for this one😝
Changed string gauge to a 7 string set of 10-62 from 9-62 in A# and now it won’t intonate properly
Proof read your comment my dude
Nick Hill lmaoo I had just woken up
@@TheJMan1K I don't have all the details, but changing the strings shouldn't prevent proper intonation. I also changed string gauges and was able to intonate with no issues.
Evertune , I'm not so sure I like mine. Bit of a learning curve. I've broke two strings and I can't exactly tell if Im at stage 3. I just want a mild bend, although no bend...
That’s a bummer man. I’ve had zero issues with any of mine and essentially prefer them on all of my guitars. There are a bunch of videos that may be helpful from evertune and even Ola Englund. Best of luck
According to the Evertune website, you might need a different saddle altogether depending on your guitar and which gauge of strings you decide to go with. I copied the link below.
www.evertune.com/resources/string_tension_gauge_calculator.php
Yep, they have different saddles for tension I don’t need it with this gauge. I wouldn’t Go much higher than what I’m using now if at all. Thanks for sharing my dude!
Thanks! Subscribed!
I've gotta try one of these. I FUCKING HATE changing strings on a floyd.
I don’t think you’re only one my dude!
Now i finaly `got it! -
Zone 2 What cha gonna do... stay in tune
Zone 3 You can bend for me
Zone 1 I guess your not done?
evertunes are tons of fun
You got it man!
close... I Want it :)
Ty
El video si es algo aburrido, pero tenía que verlo completo porque voy a comprar una guitarra con evertune, asi que esto es muy informativo.
Lo siento, estabas aburrido
Have you seen a drummer changes its drum heads and tune 'em.. so entertaining!
I haven’t. I’d imagine it’s about as exciting as watching me change strings lol
To tune a string, put the saddle in Zone 2, as covered in Step 1, and then use the EverTune hex key to adjust the tension of the saddle. Insert the EverTune hex key into the tuning hole (Fig. 3) and then turn it clockwise to increase the pitch and counter-clockwise to decrease the pitch. Always remove the key before checking the tune, You don't tune the string in Zone 3, fine tuning is fine. This isn't the correct way
No one is tuning in zone 3 and if I misspoke, that is one thing but I tried to demonstrate what the zones are and do. I’ve had this guitar for a year and have made multiple string changes so am confident I’m not doing it wrong on account of the guitar always being in tune in zone 3 and my ability to bend when I’m up against zone 3.
Wait, you said your strings went out of tune with evertune. What? I the whole point was that wouldn’t happen anymore. Am I missing something?
Rust and oxidation can impact the weight of a string and per evertunes FAQ, can knock tuning out 5-15 cents as more rust is added to strings. It’s why they also suggest coated strings. To minimize the effect. I have VERY acidic sweat so... rust and oxidation
Interesting! Thank you!
No problem! For what it’s worth, I am a true fan of the evertune. It is light years ahead of its time. As primarily a rhythm player, I appreciate it so much
Nick Hill I am primarily a rhythm player as well, and just received my first evertune equipped guitar today. Thanks a ton for the videos and response! It really helps alleviate the uncertainty associated with a new piece of gear like this.
You got it man! Keep rippin
hahhaha funny man. wow i would prob never change gauge if I had an evertune bridge. pain in the butt for sure. btw you forgot to add the "thats what she said" for the ending when you said "...if you stuck in this long...." hahahhaha enjoy your axe. great stuff. Im still confused but I guess you have to try it yourself to get it. practice makes perfect. wish I had one but dont.
I’m sure I made it out to be more complicated than it is. It’s not that bad and like you said, once you mess with it, it’s easy to be honest
wait wait.. you said you've had your strings on for a while so they don't hold the tuning. Even with an evertune bridge?? how? My understanding is that even after 2 years it should keep your guitar in tune.
8:31 Fucking shredding machine 😆🤣
Do you need to get a pro set up on a new guitar that has Evertune ? I asked my local guitar shop tech if he can setup an evertune-equipped guitar and he didn't even know what it was :(
what exactly do you need setup? There are plenty of resources online. I do all my setups myself
@@NickHillMakesMusic I can do everything myself but I'm scared of messing with the truss rod. I guess a brand new guitar (and I mean brand new like nobody has ever played this guitar since it's coming from a warehouse) shouldn't even need a truss rod adjustment right?
The truss rod works the same. What’s your hesitation? And yes, mine was in time and ready to go. Just read up and do some research. You’ll be good
No truss rod adjustment?
Didn’t need it
@@NickHillMakesMusic thats surprising
Does the evertune mean no need to stretch tune strings?
I always stretch strings. Besides.... it takes 26 seconds
@@NickHillMakesMusic right on, thanks! I have a LTD Susi with evertune coming in tomorrow, so excited! Your video is a big help
Thanx! ;) \m/
Hope it helped!
Sometimes I change strings (to the same set and guage) and one string wont tune up to pitch. It will be flat and I will have no more travel on my tuning screw (on the saddle) What do??? This is the one thing that I hate about this bridge.
Your setting tension with the tuning pegs. You use the evertune tool down at the bridge to adjust tuning. There are several videos about the process. This bridge is perfect once you understand it. It takes practice. Good luck!
I don't have that issue as I replace my strings one by one. "The higher the gauge the higher the tension": that means you need to adjust your truss rod as well as your intonation. What you've done is not enough!
I'm not sure that’s correct my dude. Adjusting the truss rod has nothing to do with the amount of tension but everything to do with the “bow,” in the neck created by said tension. And counteracting it. Also... my intonation was fine. Spot on even. By simply going from a 52 (my usual gauge at this point) to the 56 (I used in the video) the tension at this scale length goes from 13.25 lbs to 19.9 lbs. I'm curious about your insistence on me not having, “done enough,” in your words.
6,666 views...wicked.
Bro needs to adjust his trust rod and stretch them strings
TRUSS rod was was bang on but thanks for the concern my guy. Five year Ago Nick is much appreciative. Also, and I made this joke in a recent video… I do stretch strings. Don’t think THAT step was needed for an evertune video so I guess every painstaking detail needs to be in videos for ya. I get it. I didn’t show you how to plug the guitar into the helix or access the tuner but I assume you or most, can figure that out.
All jokes aside, thanks for the comment and engagement. This 5 year old video appreciates you.
Stop saying boring and putting yourself down the content was good!