Thanks William. Watch out for magnets dragging across the wood, they will leave a dark stain in time. I now epoxy them in place so they're not in contact with wood.
Thanks Earle for spotting and commenting on one the fine features of the method. Namely that you don't have to drill to a precise depth to install the magnets. By the way, note that the magnets stain tracks on the wood, so you will want to epoxy one magnet -- maybe both -- in place to keep it or them from dragging along the wood.
George, just completed a hutch, and the one thing I forgot about was the catches for the inset doors. Thanks so much as you have solved my problem! They have lots of products for overlay doors. Not so much for inset. Great idea. I've ordered the magnets from Amazon. Looking forward to the installation. Also subscribed to your channel. Thanks again for a great idea!
Hi Strst31, Additional info about rare earth magnets: Dragged across wood, they leave dust or stain tracks. For that reason it's best to fix the "unseen" magnet with CA glue or epoxy. An alternative is to cover them with veneer. By unseen I mean the magnet that's out of view when one stands normally at the cabinet. I can elaborate if that's unclear. Good luck with your projects, and thank you for commenting.
This is EXACTLY what I needed to finish a much-too-complex project. Thanks from a beginner whose 'eyes are too big for her belly' when it comes to wood working. :)
Hi Laura, Glad to hear you found the magnet closure useful. One thing to watch for, once the magnets are installed, working, and adjusted, is that they might leave grey traces on the wood. The traces clean up easily. To keep it from happening you can glue the magnets in place (CA or epoxy) so that they don't drag on the wood. If you glue only the unseen magnet, you retain the reassuring click. Your eye-belly ratio: it will pay off in future skill. Thank you for commenting.
@@lauramarshall6376 Yeah, once you've adjusted the screw to get the magnet just clear of the wood, and working properly, then a dab of epoxy or CA glue will probably fix everything. It won't matter if the screw gets glue, it's the magnet you'll want to fix in place against the wood.
George - first saw your video a couple years ago / was planning on using it for Krenov style cabinet of Yellow Cedar. Instead went with ball and catch - big mistake - left grooves in bottom of cabinet ! Remade original cabinet and tried your technique and worked well. Drilled out the ball & catch on first cabinet & plugged and. Went with the magnets - worked even better the second time - thanks for the great idea / video
Hi Doug, I'm very happy to hear the magnets were a better solution for you. Note that loose magnets dragging on the wood will stain it. One solution, once the perfect adjustment has been found, is to epoxy the magnets in place. Thank you for the positive feedback!
Thank you for mentioning it. Note that loose magnets will leave tracks on the wood. To avoid it, fix the magnet that is out of sight (or both) in place with epoxy. An alternative is to cap magnets with very thin veneer. Stay safe.
This is so cool. I was looking for a DIY way to catch my cabinets when reinstalling my doors. I hated the idea of having something protrude and get in the way of putting stuff in and out of my cabinets. My magnets from Lee Valley came today, and I just installed the first one. 22 to go! Thanks for the inspiration!
Hi Dave, Thanks for commenting. One thing I need to mention is that the upper magnet should be fixed in place, not allowed to contact wood. (If it's above eye level, then fix the lower magnet. Or both.) The reason is that the magnets will leave a track as it's repeatedly dragged across the wood. It's cleanable, but unsightly while it's there.
Thank you for your video Not being a professional woodworker what would worry me about this method is being able to perfectly position the magnets. The dept is something you can control with the screw but where to place the magnet on the door and frame is tricky and gets affected by the adjustment on the door hinges as well. Touch latches for cabinets seem a safer bet for someone like me.
Hi G.R. You've identified that the tricky alignment is the depth from the cabinet or door faces. (Not the up-down, not the left-right, the other one: back-front.) As you've pointed out the vertical depth is adjusted with the screws, and I add that if we're off a little to the left or right it won't matter. But we definitely want the door and cabinet faces in plane when the doors are closed. For that important depth I used a marking gauge and an awl. The groove made by the marking gauge helps position the awl, and putting a physical dimple with an awl is helpful because drilling off a pencil mark is prone to the drill bit skating around before it bites. And a dimple keeps, to some extent, the bit from being Englished by wood grain. But I have to tell you: I am the last person on the planet to dissuade anyone from using a touch latch. They're great. Listen, thanks for the dialogue!
Hi@@georgefouriezos8863! Sorry to bother you, but I'm just letting you know that I just made and uploaded this video for fun: ua-cam.com/video/OpPbzdARHDY/v-deo.html It is 8 seconds cut from your video here, and is intended as a parody to a video recently made by schnooleheletteletto. I hope you do not mind, but if you do, feel free to let me know and I can try to find a different source to make a similar video. Note: I do not have access to any of my own magnetic cabinets to record my own video footage to symbolize the idea, so I searched and found this. Hope all is well, and have a wonderful day!
Hi Will, Thanks for your question and endorsement. I get mine from Lee Valley Tools, chosen for its quality and convenience (as it's nearby). The ones in the video were cylinders 1/4 inch in diameter and height, corresponding to about 6 mm. One thing to watch out for: The magnets that drag across the wood will stain it. So once the right height (depth) has bee set, epoxy or crazy-glue them in place. Bye and warm regards.
Hi Jason, no, I don't, but the screw and magnet would go in just like the dry version. Use the screw to adjust the magnet just below grade. Then apply the epoxy adhesive to fix the magnet permanently. Thanks for the kind words.
Hi George. If I were to employ this method on a set of double closet doors, what magnet strength would you recommend? Would a circle be better? Thanks!
Hi Kevin, I just saw your comment now, a month after you wrote. I hope it's not too late to respond. My main answer is I don't know, but if the doors are well balanced and the magnets don't have to fight the hinges, then the magnets won't have an extraordinary amount of work to do. I would try the inch-long quarter-inch diameter as they are the largest of the rod shapes, or one of the larger disk shapes, the largest that fits. In either case I would epoxy the magnets in place.
Hi George. Greatings from Brazil. A question. Once both magnets are not glued to their holes, the gap between the door and the door frame needs to be narrower than the magnet thiknes so they don't get out the hole and stay attached to the other magnet when you open the door again, right? If not the magnet would jump out the hole and the magic is broken. Right? Great idea, I'll try it.
Yes, exactly, the length of the magnets has to be greater than the gap in the door. It is also a good idea to glue (epoxy) the door's magnets in place. The reason is that the moving magnets will leave tracks of stain on the wood if they are allowed to rise or drop into contact with the wood. Regards back to Brazil from Canada!
Correction: It is not the door's magnets that need glue; it is the magnets that are not seen that should be glued. So at the top of the door it would be the case magnet, and at the bottom of the door it would be the door's magnet that should be glued. The other two magnets will leave tracks but the tracks won't be seen.
Hi Truth, For those edges that are normally visible (or maybe both edges) the magnets should be epoxied (or otherwise glued) in place. The reason is that if the magnets are loose, they drag along the wood and stain it with an arc shaped track. Thank you for commenting!
Hi Mike, I do, although it's without any tests of with vs. without, just a theory that magnets in both places will help alignment and resist twisting of the panel over time. One new recommendation since the video is for each pair of magnets, fix (epoxy) the one that isn't visible in place. In the case of the video, since it's a lower cabinet, in both pairs the lower of each pair is visible. The uppers (not normally seen) should be fixed so that they do not drag along the wood when the door is partially opened or closed. That will keep them from staining the wood with track lines. Optionally, the visible magnets can be fixed as well to keep them from staining the upper surfaces, although with a low cabinet the upper surfaces are not usually seen.
Hi Jack, Yes, exactly, the magnetic attraction to the screw head is enough to keep them in place. As the door opens it shears one magnet away from the other. Once the magnets are far from each other -- I'm guessing a mm or 1/32" between them -- then the attraction to the screw head is better than to the other magnet. No glue.
Hi Phil. I get them from Lee Valley Tools. I use the quarter inch diameter by quarter inch height. In metric that's approximately 6 mm. www.leevalley.com should get you there.
@@philparrish6914 One thing to note: For a lower cabinet, glue (epoxy) the upper ones so that they don't drag on the lower (visible) surface and stain it. Do the opposite if it's an upper cabinet where the upper magnet is visible. I would still use an adjustment screw just to set the proper depth.
Best idea I've seen so far George! I am planning on using magnets to hold some light weight, 79 inch high by 15 inch wide closet doors. I'm guessing they each weigh about 2 pounds. I purchased some 1/2 inch button size rare earth magnets but thinking your 1/4 cylindrical magnets might be nicer. Wondering how Kevin (KK) made out with his closet doors?
Hi Jim, I haven't heard anything more from Kevin. I hope his use of the magnets was successful. It's now maybe 2 years (?) since I installed mine, and they still close soundly, centered, and with a reassuring click. The only modification I'd add is to epoxy in place the magnet that one does not see to keep it from dragging an arc shaped track on the wood. Good luck with your install!
@@georgefouriezos8863 Thanks for your reply George. Because my pine closet doors are 79 inches tall I'm going to attempt 2 magnets at the top and 2 at the bottom. The tolerances are not as tight as a fine finished cabinet like yours though. I have about 5 - 6 mm clearance at the top and about 8 - 9 mm at the bottom. I'm just hoping the magnetic field will still be strong between those distances.
@@jimjohnson4359 Hi Jim. I held a couple of 1/4 inch (6mm) magnets by hand about 1 cm apart, and felt some pull between them. Whether that's enough to pull a magnet away from its adjustment screw will have to be determined by experiment. Hope all goes well with your project.
Hi C, thanks for your very positive comment. In my cabinet, the magnets leave an arc-shaped stain as they travel across the wood. It may work to cover them with a layer of veneer or something like that. Best to you, George F.
Hi Fernando, Lee Valley Tools here in Canada stocks them in a variety of shapes. The ones I used were cylinders 1/4 inch -- 6 mm - in length and diameter. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/rare-earth-magnets
Hello George Just found your channel and love your vids! I am a custom cabinet maker of 30 plus years and i think this idea is brilliant!!! I'm going to try it on a custom kitchen we are working on in my shop write now. I love sucking for new ideas and methods , thanks and as a new sub Thanks for your time i will let you know how i make out . Thanks and be well! Rich upstate nY
Hi R. Judy, Thanks for your uplifting note! One thing to watch out for with the magnetic latch is that the magnets might stain the wood if they're allowed to make contact with it. I does not matter for the ones embedded down -- down in the cabinet floor or down in the upper edge of the door. But the ones held up -- up in the upper stretcher/cabinet ceiling or up at the bottom edge of the door -- are best fixed in place and not allowed to contact the wood below. I recommend using the screw-magnet combination to make them all adjustable. Position the "down" ones flush with the wood, but raise the "up" ones slightly higher than the wood surface they would otherwise contact, and epoxy them in place or cover them with veneer so that they cannot be pulled down to the wood surface. This way you won't be left with two visible magnet tracks -- one at the top edge of the door and the other one on the cabinet floor. The "down" magnets may still make tracks, but you would have to get down low and look up to see them. And for sure, do let me know how things work out; I value hearing from your experienced voice. Bye for a bit, George F.
Thanks for referring me to this video, George. Your channel is as pleasant a discovery as Peter Parfitt's. There's a guy west of Minneapolis, Soloman-Ross, I think, who incorporated a rotary magnetic latch on a credenza. If I'm correct the rotation is only a segment of a circle, 75 degrees or so. Strangely, I was impressed enough that I didn't ask the magician to reveal his secret. Anyone know where to find a well designed pattern?
Hi Lea, I get mine from Lee Valley Tools, here: www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/rare-earth-magnets/magnets/rod/40076-rare-earth-rod-magnets?item=99K3601
Thanks Michael. Let me add that the magnet that's out of view (so the upper one in a low cabinet door, or the lower one in an upper cabinet) should be epoxied in place. The reason is that if it's loose it will drag along the wood and may stain a track on its path. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Great idea George. Thanks so much for the video. It works great on my new cabinet doors!
Thanks William. Watch out for magnets dragging across the wood, they will leave a dark stain in time. I now epoxy them in place so they're not in contact with wood.
I will certainly keep that in mind. Thanks again!
@@georgefouriezos8863
Whoa the fine adjustment aspect of this is fantastic
Thanks Earle for spotting and commenting on one the fine features of the method. Namely that you don't have to drill to a precise depth to install the magnets. By the way, note that the magnets stain tracks on the wood, so you will want to epoxy one magnet -- maybe both -- in place to keep it or them from dragging along the wood.
George, just completed a hutch, and the one thing I forgot about was the catches for the inset doors. Thanks so much as you have solved my problem! They have lots of products for overlay doors. Not so much for inset. Great idea. I've ordered the magnets from Amazon. Looking forward to the installation. Also subscribed to your channel. Thanks again for a great idea!
Hi Strst31, Additional info about rare earth magnets: Dragged across wood, they leave dust or stain tracks. For that reason it's best to fix the "unseen" magnet with CA glue or epoxy. An alternative is to cover them with veneer. By unseen I mean the magnet that's out of view when one stands normally at the cabinet. I can elaborate if that's unclear. Good luck with your projects, and thank you for commenting.
This is EXACTLY what I needed to finish a much-too-complex project. Thanks from a beginner whose 'eyes are too big for her belly' when it comes to wood working. :)
Hi Laura, Glad to hear you found the magnet closure useful. One thing to watch for, once the magnets are installed, working, and adjusted, is that they might leave grey traces on the wood. The traces clean up easily. To keep it from happening you can glue the magnets in place (CA or epoxy) so that they don't drag on the wood. If you glue only the unseen magnet, you retain the reassuring click. Your eye-belly ratio: it will pay off in future skill. Thank you for commenting.
@@georgefouriezos8863 Thanks for this. Would you glue the magnet to the screw? or the wood, or both?
@@lauramarshall6376 Yeah, once you've adjusted the screw to get the magnet just clear of the wood, and working properly, then a dab of epoxy or CA glue will probably fix everything. It won't matter if the screw gets glue, it's the magnet you'll want to fix in place against the wood.
@@georgefouriezos8863 Thank you so much. I love your videos.
@@lauramarshall6376 Thank you for your supportive comments.
Good idea George! I love doors that have a slight snap when you close them.
Yes, by having the magnets with a slight gap between each other, they snap together with a click. Evidently they prefer each other over the screws.
Hey, they say opposites attract. Apparently they’re good at math too.
George - first saw your video a couple years ago / was planning on using it for Krenov style cabinet of Yellow Cedar. Instead went with ball and catch - big mistake - left grooves in bottom of cabinet ! Remade original cabinet and tried your technique and worked well. Drilled out the ball & catch on first cabinet & plugged and. Went with the magnets - worked even better the second time - thanks for the great idea / video
Hi Doug, I'm very happy to hear the magnets were a better solution for you. Note that loose magnets dragging on the wood will stain it. One solution, once the perfect adjustment has been found, is to epoxy the magnets in place. Thank you for the positive feedback!
Thanks George, very helpful.
Thank you for mentioning it. Note that loose magnets will leave tracks on the wood. To avoid it, fix the magnet that is out of sight (or both) in place with epoxy. An alternative is to cap magnets with very thin veneer. Stay safe.
This is so cool. I was looking for a DIY way to catch my cabinets when reinstalling my doors. I hated the idea of having something protrude and get in the way of putting stuff in and out of my cabinets. My magnets from Lee Valley came today, and I just installed the first one. 22 to go! Thanks for the inspiration!
Hi Dave, Thanks for commenting. One thing I need to mention is that the upper magnet should be fixed in place, not allowed to contact wood. (If it's above eye level, then fix the lower magnet. Or both.) The reason is that the magnets will leave a track as it's repeatedly dragged across the wood. It's cleanable, but unsightly while it's there.
George Fouriezos I just installed all the rest. My wife and I are thrilled with the result. Thanks again for sharing this great idea!
@@davekoser3938 It's a treat for me to learn that something I filmed was useful. Thanks for letting me know!
Thank you for your video
Not being a professional woodworker what would worry me about this method is being able to perfectly position the magnets. The dept is something you can control with the screw but where to place the magnet on the door and frame is tricky and gets affected by the adjustment on the door hinges as well. Touch latches for cabinets seem a safer bet for someone like me.
Hi G.R. You've identified that the tricky alignment is the depth from the cabinet or door faces. (Not the up-down, not the left-right, the other one: back-front.) As you've pointed out the vertical depth is adjusted with the screws, and I add that if we're off a little to the left or right it won't matter. But we definitely want the door and cabinet faces in plane when the doors are closed. For that important depth I used a marking gauge and an awl. The groove made by the marking gauge helps position the awl, and putting a physical dimple with an awl is helpful because drilling off a pencil mark is prone to the drill bit skating around before it bites. And a dimple keeps, to some extent, the bit from being Englished by wood grain. But I have to tell you: I am the last person on the planet to dissuade anyone from using a touch latch. They're great. Listen, thanks for the dialogue!
Great ! and I love the final trick. Thanks for you sense of humor !!
Thank you Eduardo for putting your thoughts into words. It is a treat to read them.
Hi@@georgefouriezos8863! Sorry to bother you, but I'm just letting you know that I just made and uploaded this video for fun: ua-cam.com/video/OpPbzdARHDY/v-deo.html
It is 8 seconds cut from your video here, and is intended as a parody to a video recently made by schnooleheletteletto. I hope you do not mind, but if you do, feel free to let me know and I can try to find a different source to make a similar video. Note: I do not have access to any of my own magnetic cabinets to record my own video footage to symbolize the idea, so I searched and found this.
Hope all is well, and have a wonderful day!
Love this idea! Do you have a suggested place to purchase these magnets from?
Hi Will, Thanks for your question and endorsement. I get mine from Lee Valley Tools, chosen for its quality and convenience (as it's nearby). The ones in the video were cylinders 1/4 inch in diameter and height, corresponding to about 6 mm. One thing to watch out for: The magnets that drag across the wood will stain it. So once the right height (depth) has bee set, epoxy or crazy-glue them in place. Bye and warm regards.
This is great. Do you have a photo or video of the epoxy modification your mentioned?
Hi Jason, no, I don't, but the screw and magnet would go in just like the dry version. Use the screw to adjust the magnet just below grade. Then apply the epoxy adhesive to fix the magnet permanently. Thanks for the kind words.
Hi George. If I were to employ this method on a set of double closet doors, what magnet strength would you recommend? Would a circle be better? Thanks!
Hi Kevin, I just saw your comment now, a month after you wrote. I hope it's not too late to respond. My main answer is I don't know, but if the doors are well balanced and the magnets don't have to fight the hinges, then the magnets won't have an extraordinary amount of work to do. I would try the inch-long quarter-inch diameter as they are the largest of the rod shapes, or one of the larger disk shapes, the largest that fits. In either case I would epoxy the magnets in place.
Hi George. Greatings from Brazil.
A question. Once both magnets are not glued to their holes, the gap between the door and the door frame needs to be narrower than the magnet thiknes so they don't get out the hole and stay attached to the other magnet when you open the door again, right? If not the magnet would jump out the hole and the magic is broken. Right?
Great idea, I'll try it.
Yes, exactly, the length of the magnets has to be greater than the gap in the door. It is also a good idea to glue (epoxy) the door's magnets in place. The reason is that the moving magnets will leave tracks of stain on the wood if they are allowed to rise or drop into contact with the wood. Regards back to Brazil from Canada!
Correction: It is not the door's magnets that need glue; it is the magnets that are not seen that should be glued. So at the top of the door it would be the case magnet, and at the bottom of the door it would be the door's magnet that should be glued. The other two magnets will leave tracks but the tracks won't be seen.
Thank you !
Hi Truth, For those edges that are normally visible (or maybe both edges) the magnets should be epoxied (or otherwise glued) in place. The reason is that if the magnets are loose, they drag along the wood and stain it with an arc shaped track. Thank you for commenting!
In your example you showed the magnet at the top of the door. Do you also recommend putting magnets in the bottom of the door?
Hi Mike, I do, although it's without any tests of with vs. without, just a theory that magnets in both places will help alignment and resist twisting of the panel over time. One new recommendation since the video is for each pair of magnets, fix (epoxy) the one that isn't visible in place. In the case of the video, since it's a lower cabinet, in both pairs the lower of each pair is visible. The uppers (not normally seen) should be fixed so that they do not drag along the wood when the door is partially opened or closed. That will keep them from staining the wood with track lines. Optionally, the visible magnets can be fixed as well to keep them from staining the upper surfaces, although with a low cabinet the upper surfaces are not usually seen.
Perfect!!!
That's one smart magnet.
Smart all right. Struggles a bit with trig, though.
Not sure what I missed are they just staying in place by the screw head? Or are they glued in?
thank you
Hi Jack, Yes, exactly, the magnetic attraction to the screw head is enough to keep them in place. As the door opens it shears one magnet away from the other. Once the magnets are far from each other -- I'm guessing a mm or 1/32" between them -- then the attraction to the screw head is better than to the other magnet. No glue.
Do you have a link to where to buy the magnets the size you used?
Hi Phil. I get them from Lee Valley Tools. I use the quarter inch diameter by quarter inch height. In metric that's approximately 6 mm. www.leevalley.com should get you there.
@@georgefouriezos8863 Thanks!
@@philparrish6914 One thing to note: For a lower cabinet, glue (epoxy) the upper ones so that they don't drag on the lower (visible) surface and stain it. Do the opposite if it's an upper cabinet where the upper magnet is visible. I would still use an adjustment screw just to set the proper depth.
Best idea I've seen so far George! I am planning on using magnets to hold some light weight, 79 inch high by 15 inch wide closet doors. I'm guessing they each weigh about 2 pounds. I purchased some 1/2 inch button size rare earth magnets but thinking your 1/4 cylindrical magnets might be nicer. Wondering how Kevin (KK) made out with his closet doors?
Hi Jim, I haven't heard anything more from Kevin. I hope his use of the magnets was successful. It's now maybe 2 years (?) since I installed mine, and they still close soundly, centered, and with a reassuring click. The only modification I'd add is to epoxy in place the magnet that one does not see to keep it from dragging an arc shaped track on the wood. Good luck with your install!
@@georgefouriezos8863 Thanks for your reply George. Because my pine closet doors are 79 inches tall I'm going to attempt 2 magnets at the top and 2 at the bottom. The tolerances are not as tight as a fine finished cabinet like yours though. I have about 5 - 6 mm clearance at the top and about 8 - 9 mm at the bottom. I'm just hoping the magnetic field will still be strong between those distances.
@@jimjohnson4359 Hi Jim. I held a couple of 1/4 inch (6mm) magnets by hand about 1 cm apart, and felt some pull between them. Whether that's enough to pull a magnet away from its adjustment screw will have to be determined by experiment. Hope all goes well with your project.
Brilliant
Hi C, thanks for your very positive comment. In my cabinet, the magnets leave an arc-shaped stain as they travel across the wood. It may work to cover them with a layer of veneer or something like that. Best to you, George F.
Hello george , where can i find magnets this size?
Hi Fernando, Lee Valley Tools here in Canada stocks them in a variety of shapes. The ones I used were cylinders 1/4 inch -- 6 mm - in length and diameter. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/rare-earth-magnets
Hello George
Just found your channel and love your vids! I am a custom cabinet maker of 30 plus years and i think this idea is brilliant!!! I'm going to try it on a custom kitchen we are working on in my shop write now. I love sucking for new ideas and methods , thanks and as a new sub Thanks for your time i will let you know how i make out . Thanks and be well!
Rich upstate nY
Hi R. Judy, Thanks for your uplifting note! One thing to watch out for with the magnetic latch is that the magnets might stain the wood if they're allowed to make contact with it. I does not matter for the ones embedded down -- down in the cabinet floor or down in the upper edge of the door. But the ones held up -- up in the upper stretcher/cabinet ceiling or up at the bottom edge of the door -- are best fixed in place and not allowed to contact the wood below. I recommend using the screw-magnet combination to make them all adjustable. Position the "down" ones flush with the wood, but raise the "up" ones slightly higher than the wood surface they would otherwise contact, and epoxy them in place or cover them with veneer so that they cannot be pulled down to the wood surface. This way you won't be left with two visible magnet tracks -- one at the top edge of the door and the other one on the cabinet floor. The "down" magnets may still make tracks, but you would have to get down low and look up to see them. And for sure, do let me know how things work out; I value hearing from your experienced voice. Bye for a bit, George F.
Thanks for referring me to this video, George. Your channel is as pleasant a discovery as Peter Parfitt's. There's a guy west of Minneapolis, Soloman-Ross, I think, who incorporated a rotary magnetic latch on a credenza. If I'm correct the rotation is only a segment of a circle, 75 degrees or so. Strangely, I was impressed enough that I didn't ask the magician to reveal his secret. Anyone know where to find a well designed pattern?
I did a quick probe with Google but came up with nothing. Thanks, Mark, for the kind words.
Where to find the magnets?
Hi Lea, I get mine from Lee Valley Tools, here: www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/rare-earth-magnets/magnets/rod/40076-rare-earth-rod-magnets?item=99K3601
Buen video gracias...
De nada.
Excellent video! Are you Greek?
Thanks George. Yes, Canadian born, but my parents emigrated to Canada from Greece.
Brilliant!
Thanks Michael. Let me add that the magnet that's out of view (so the upper one in a low cabinet door, or the lower one in an upper cabinet) should be epoxied in place. The reason is that if it's loose it will drag along the wood and may stain a track on its path. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
3/32 is a bit of space lol
Not sure what this refers to, but I agree.
🥇👍
Thank you for your positive emojis!