Thanks for this video. Just purchased my brush hog and tractor not too long ago and I’m glad I double checked my oil. They delivered it to me bone dry.
We're about to install a new gearbox. It didn't come with any break in suggestions, but with all the emphasis on breaking in automotive gears, I wonder if we should go extra easy on it at first. I figure that we should change the gear lube after the first few hours.
I am about to use my brush hog and tractor away from the house to clear roads through the property. Those are great tips on using the brush hog, and I thank you for the tips.
Great video. I have yet to find a video from anyone explaining the roll of the back wheel and how it should be adjusted. I just bought a Frontier Rotary Cutter and still trying to figure it out.
Good video. Mike do they sell that locking piece ( in front of the lever) that let's you set the same height every time ? My tractor doesn't have it and it's annoying to have to look down and try and get the exact same cutting height every time. Thanks.
If it didn't come with one originally, it may not be available. It would have to come from the dealer for that brand of tractor. Deere is hammering Kubota for not having it on some of their tractors, maybe some other models "stops" will fit. You'd have to check with your local dealer.
My gear box does not have a side hole or a dip stick, and the manual does not say how much to put in the gear box. I can look in the top and see oil to about the half way point after adding 1 quart to an empty/new gear box. I have noticed that some gear boxes have the "fill" screw about 1/3rd up and others are about 1/2 way up from bottom. My question is..., how much is too much? I know I don't want too little, and since the top fill screw has a pressure vent, I am assuming 1/2 full would be okay, but I haven't used this gear box yet and would like to know before I do use it.
I have a Frontier rotary cutter and there was a small black cylindrical tube on the implement and the manual was located inside the tube. If you don't see that or don't have one, I would call the location where you purchase it to get the manual. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the video. You don't show how to level front to back but I assume it is with the tail wheel? Would you level front to back AFTER you set the mow height? To set the mow height do you just set the stop so the unit only lowers to the point you want as measured from the front skid plate?
Ken Breland absolutely keep it attached. Although because the cutter might "float" better without the top link attached will give you a more even cut on hills and such, but it's not a good idea in case you need to lift it up over a stump or adverse terrain. Plus it's that much more trouble and time to be connecting and disconnecting the top link all the time.
Mike, There are several videos up here that show how to use a bush hog. One says to keep the loader bucket up in the air a bit and then drive over under growth you want to cut. In the video the bushes are six or 7 feet tall. He even has branches stuck behind the loader bucket as he move over the brush. Does that put the whole underside of your tractor at risk? thinking if the brush springs up under the tractor what then? The cutter seems to cut and mulch it up just fine. But it seems risky. With brush that thick and tall wouldn't you back into it? Let the cutter handle it without putting the tractor "under belly" at risk. Ok, if you back-up to cut, can you raise the cutter as high as you can and then lower it onto the brush. I'm thinking like those Skidd dozer "shark" front cutters that I've seen that just obliterate anything in front of them. Can the towed cutter be used the same way? I have a heavy duty one coming that will cut up to 3 inches. I'm curious about your answer. I'm new to this.
Don, great question! The guys who brush hog for a living, like on rough ground under utility lines, generally will install a "belly pan" under the tractor to protect everything. I've seen 1/4" steel pans that mount to the front of the tractor and go all the way past the back axle. It is a nightmare when they need major service work because that all has to come off. If you're just cutting tall weeds or most small brush (under 2" diameter), most tractors are designed to withstand that stress. If you're taking down 3" trees, your concern about damaging the underside of the tractor is valid. Generally what happens is a wire will get ripped out (even though most are tucked pretty closely to the belly of the tractor), but if you hit a big enough tree just the wrong way you could do damage to high risk items like oil pans/filters, etc. I've done the backing over bigger stuff method you've talked about, the problem is you can't really see what's back there and if you accidentally let your cutter down on a well head or a 6" stump, that would be bad. You'll also quickly find that different trees cut easier than others. When I'm brush hogging I may fudge on the 2" diameter limit of my cutter on easier to cut species, and opt to leave smaller trees of the hard stuff and come back and cut it with the chain saw. If you're cutting on ground you've recently purchased and you're not sure what's out there, consider waiting until the leaves are off to cut so you can see all the obstacles better. If you want to cut the maximum the cutter/tractor is rated for and keep everything safe, I'd see if a local welding shop can build a belly pan for you. That all would be a good topic for a video which might be something I'll do this winter, when I need material. Thanks for the question and good luck with the new cutter.
I have an antique brush cutter made in Germany (the only plate remaining on the machine says “Type RL 125”, which probably means 125 cm width). The pto shaft is a one-piece unit rather than two sliding pieces. Is this a problem?
My bush hog attachment is pulling pretty hard to either side when I turn whether I'm all the way down or just touching I'm pretty new what am I doing wrong
Sandra Hoyt Thanks for the comment Sandra, that's a question I should have covered, the video was running a little long so I chose to leave that discussion out. To get the cutter set from front to back you'll want to start at the back with the tailwheel. There are several different height setting with most tailwheels (usually it's a strap with several holes) and usually the setting from the factory is the one you want, and it was on the tractor/cutter I used in the video. Set the overall height with the tailwheel adjustment, then adjust the down angle with the three point position. You may have to move the top link in or out to let the cutter ride on the lower arms of your three point. Again, you want it headed slightly down toward the tractor. So, when you end up, the tailwheel will be on the ground, and the front height of the cutter will be adjusted by where the tractor three point is set. Hope that helps, if you need more info, please let me know.
No. It surely has a shear pin for protection and that will work. If so, no need to invest in a slip clutch unless you're cutting in extreme conditions and grinding up a lot of rocks and debris. If you're cutting mostly grass and small brush I wouldn't worry about it.
+Richard Tucker Most cutters take the 80/90 gear oil that you can get at any dealership or farm supply store. I'd check your owner's manual to make sure but that's what I've always used in my brush hogs.
You first have to see if the tractor is level, if your tractor is pitched to the left then your hog should be pitched to the left,otherwise the tractor is not level and the brush hog is.
bastion 54e i don't think so. They still need to be removed and put on a grinder to get a good sharp edge on them. Easier on the tractor as it doesn't work as hard cutting brush.
Thanks for this video. Just purchased my brush hog and tractor not too long ago and I’m glad I double checked my oil. They delivered it to me bone dry.
We're about to install a new gearbox. It didn't come with any break in suggestions, but with all the emphasis on breaking in automotive gears, I wonder if we should go extra easy on it at first. I figure that we should change the gear lube after the first few hours.
I am about to use my brush hog and tractor away from the house to clear roads through the property. Those are great tips on using the brush hog, and I thank you for the tips.
Great video. I have yet to find a video from anyone explaining the roll of the back wheel and how it should be adjusted. I just bought a Frontier Rotary Cutter and still trying to figure it out.
Good video. Mike do they sell that locking piece ( in front of the lever) that let's you set the same height every time ? My tractor doesn't have it and it's annoying to have to look down and try and get the exact same cutting height every time. Thanks.
If it didn't come with one originally, it may not be available. It would have to come from the dealer for that brand of tractor. Deere is hammering Kubota for not having it on some of their tractors, maybe some other models "stops" will fit. You'd have to check with your local dealer.
My gear box does not have a side hole or a dip stick, and the manual does not say how much to put in the gear box. I can look in the top and see oil to about the half way point after adding 1 quart to an empty/new gear box. I have noticed that some gear boxes have the "fill" screw about 1/3rd up and others are about 1/2 way up from bottom. My question is..., how much is too much? I know I don't want too little, and since the top fill screw has a pressure vent, I am assuming 1/2 full would be okay, but I haven't used this gear box yet and would like to know before I do use it.
We are looking at purchasing a tractor in the very near future. Your instruction and advice will be put to good use. Thank you!
How much does a 4ft bush hog cost
Thank you Mike! I just bought my first brush hog and I cannot find a manual for it anywhere - this is super helpful!! :D:D:D
I have a Frontier rotary cutter and there was a small black cylindrical tube on the implement and the manual was located inside the tube. If you don't see that or don't have one, I would call the location where you purchase it to get the manual. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the video. You don't show how to level front to back but I assume it is with the tail wheel? Would you level front to back AFTER you set the mow height?
To set the mow height do you just set the stop so the unit only lowers to the point you want as measured from the front skid plate?
80-90 wt. oil is used in most gear boxes Mr. Tucker
Mike I have seen several people that say not to connect the top link when you are cutting, what is your opinion?
Enjoy your videos!
Ken Breland absolutely keep it attached. Although because the cutter might "float" better without the top link attached will give you a more even cut on hills and such, but it's not a good idea in case you need to lift it up over a stump or adverse terrain. Plus it's that much more trouble and time to be connecting and disconnecting the top link all the time.
Mike, There are several videos up here that show how to use a bush hog. One says to keep the loader bucket up in the air a bit and then drive over under growth you want to cut. In the video the bushes are six or 7 feet tall. He even has branches stuck behind the loader bucket as he move over the brush. Does that put the whole underside of your tractor at risk? thinking if the brush springs up under the tractor what then? The cutter seems to cut and mulch it up just fine. But it seems risky.
With brush that thick and tall wouldn't you back into it? Let the cutter handle it without putting the tractor "under belly" at risk.
Ok, if you back-up to cut, can you raise the cutter as high as you can and then lower it onto the brush. I'm thinking like those Skidd dozer "shark" front cutters that I've seen that just obliterate anything in front of them. Can the towed cutter be used the same way? I have a heavy duty one coming that will cut up to 3 inches. I'm curious about your answer. I'm new to this.
Don, great question! The guys who brush hog for a living, like on rough ground under utility lines, generally will install a "belly pan" under the tractor to protect everything. I've seen 1/4" steel pans that mount to the front of the tractor and go all the way past the back axle. It is a nightmare when they need major service work because that all has to come off. If you're just cutting tall weeds or most small brush (under 2" diameter), most tractors are designed to withstand that stress. If you're taking down 3" trees, your concern about damaging the underside of the tractor is valid. Generally what happens is a wire will get ripped out (even though most are tucked pretty closely to the belly of the tractor), but if you hit a big enough tree just the wrong way you could do damage to high risk items like oil pans/filters, etc. I've done the backing over bigger stuff method you've talked about, the problem is you can't really see what's back there and if you accidentally let your cutter down on a well head or a 6" stump, that would be bad. You'll also quickly find that different trees cut easier than others. When I'm brush hogging I may fudge on the 2" diameter limit of my cutter on easier to cut species, and opt to leave smaller trees of the hard stuff and come back and cut it with the chain saw. If you're cutting on ground you've recently purchased and you're not sure what's out there, consider waiting until the leaves are off to cut so you can see all the obstacles better. If you want to cut the maximum the cutter/tractor is rated for and keep everything safe, I'd see if a local welding shop can build a belly pan for you. That all would be a good topic for a video which might be something I'll do this winter, when I need material. Thanks for the question and good luck with the new cutter.
I have an antique brush cutter made in Germany
(the only plate remaining on the machine says “Type RL 125”,
which probably means 125 cm width).
The pto shaft is a one-piece unit rather than two sliding pieces.
Is this a problem?
you didn't show how to adjust level front to back???
My bush hog attachment is pulling pretty hard to either side when I turn whether I'm all the way down or just touching I'm pretty new what am I doing wrong
A lot of newer tractors have a 2 speed PTO, can you use a brush hog on the high speed, 1000 rpm
You talked about leveling it front to back, but you didn't show that.
Sandra Hoyt Thanks for the comment Sandra, that's a question I should have covered, the video was running a little long so I chose to leave that discussion out. To get the cutter set from front to back you'll want to start at the back with the tailwheel. There are several different height setting with most tailwheels (usually it's a strap with several holes) and usually the setting from the factory is the one you want, and it was on the tractor/cutter I used in the video. Set the overall height with the tailwheel adjustment, then adjust the down angle with the three point position. You may have to move the top link in or out to let the cutter ride on the lower arms of your three point. Again, you want it headed slightly down toward the tractor. So, when you end up, the tailwheel will be on the ground, and the front height of the cutter will be adjusted by where the tractor three point is set. Hope that helps, if you need more info, please let me know.
Mike my brush cutter doen't have slip clutch. Do you recommend me putting one on?
No. It surely has a shear pin for protection and that will work. If so, no need to invest in a slip clutch unless you're cutting in extreme conditions and grinding up a lot of rocks and debris. If you're cutting mostly grass and small brush I wouldn't worry about it.
what weight oil goes in if needed
+Richard Tucker Most cutters take the 80/90 gear oil that you can get at any dealership or farm supply store. I'd check your owner's manual to make sure but that's what I've always used in my brush hogs.
You first have to see if the tractor is level, if your tractor is pitched to the left then your hog should be pitched to the left,otherwise the tractor is not level and the brush hog is.
Can you upgrade your 🎤 please? You’re talking to my one ear only when wearing headphones.
Another "BRUSH HOG".. Who makes those? The only name I ever knew was BUSH HOG.
Brush hog is the name of the implement and Bush Hog is a brand. Several companies make brush hogs.
its better to not sharpen the blades because they sort of sharpen themselves
bastion 54e i don't think so. They still need to be removed and put on a grinder to get a good sharp edge on them. Easier on the tractor as it doesn't work as hard cutting brush.