5 Tips For A Cleaner Cut With Your Bush Hog
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- Опубліковано 10 кві 2024
- Are you struggling with achieving a clean cut with your bush hog or wondering if upgrading to a newer model would make a difference? In this video, we address common concerns and provide expert insights to help you get the best results from your brush hog.
I received this question from Tom: "I have an old Bush Hog RZ60 which I bought used a few years ago. I put new blades on it and it cuts pretty well, but it's a very rough cut. I know that it's not a finish mower and should expect a rougher cut. Are the new machines any better, no matter the brand brand?"
My answer was: "If everything is set up right, the factors that dictate the quality of cut could include blade tip speed, deck design, height settings, the crop you are cutting, and ground speed. Assuming the blades are correctly installed (it's possible to put them on backwards), the cutter's blade tip speed will be a big determining factor relating to how pretty a cut you're going to get.
Your RZ60 had a blade tip speed of 12,468 FPM, which is a bit slow. The SQ series, the next step up in Bush Hog's product line had a blade tip speed of 14,335 FPM, so if all things were equal, it would provide a little cleaner cut. Their multi-spindle cutters: bushhog.com/multi_spindle/210... can have blade tip speeds of up to 16,000 feet per minute, so they should cut the cleanest.
Here are 5 additional recommendations to get the best cut with a brush hog, regardless of brand or blade tip speed:
1) Make sure you're running at full tractor rated engine speed when cutting.
2) Try adjusting the rake of the cutter. The owner's manual recommends that under heavier cutting conditions, always tilt the cutter approximately 2 inches lower in the front than the rear. This tilt decreases horsepower requirements and increases potential ground speed. BUT...they add that when fine shredding is desired, you can adjust the cutter deck level or slightly lower in the rear. This will keep the foliage under cutter until thoroughly shredded. Note, though, more power is required for shredding.
3) If you're mowing above 5 inches height, try lowering to around 4". Most rotary cutters struggle to deliver a pretty cut about 5"
4) Some cutters offer high lift replacement blades that may improve cut quality. I'm not sure if they're available for the RZ.
5) Consider adding a finish mower to your fleet of machinery. Since most folks have gone to cutting with zero turns, there seems to be an abundance of used finish mowers on the market. You might find one that you could use for cutting grassy areas where you want it to look nice, then use the Razorback for cutting rougher areas."
Whether you're tackling dense vegetation or maintaining grassy areas, these five expert tips will elevate your brush hogging experience. Don't settle for a rough cut-maximize the potential of your equipment and achieve professional results every time. Watch now and take your brush hogging game to the next level!
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Mike the newcomers to tractors and implement world should be THANKFUL having someone like you sharing your knowledge and experiences in these videos. I also find it interesting how often you reference the owners manual!!! As a retired CAT&CUMMINGS knuckle buster I often make the comment that the most unread piece of literature is the OWNERS MANUAL.
Thanks for trying to educate PEOPLE Mike.
Gosh-what a nice easy to listen to common sense video from someone that knows what he is talking about- Thanks Mike!
TC48DA w/BH 216 here. Sure glad this engine is no smaller or the cutter is no larger. If you expect to mow your lawn with this combo you'll be disappointed. But the thing is rated for 2" cut and the taller deck will handle cut material better than the "shorter" BH116. It's all about cutting the brush and discharging it a.s.a.p. Like you said, tip speed is key. Good video. If you want a good cut use a flail mower with "Y" blades for grass or cast "hammers" for the rougher stuff. A flail mower is more expensive than a rotary mower for a given width, but offers several advantages. It doesn't extend aft beyond the tractor nearly as far, which is good for turning close to obstructions (T-posts "murder" any mower...) and they don't pile all the cuttings against one side of the mower but distribute them evenly over the whole width of the cut. You always have to "deal with" that windrow of cut material that a rotary mower leaves behind, or you'll "mulch out" your grass (if you don't pick it up and move it) A "finish mower" is useless on all but lawns----all those spindles (usually 3 on a 5' machine), short blades that must spin at high r.p.m. for adequate tip velocity and double-reversing "Vee belts" (which don't "like" to be flexed one way and then instantly the other way) are detrimental to good service life or good results. And that belt costs $50--70! I once thought I wanted one but sold it the first season. Once you've experienced a properly-sized, well-built flail you'll never "go back" to a rotary cutter. The only reason I have a BH mower is that it came in a "package" and the dealer wouldn't discount the cost of it in the sale. It mostly just sits over by my fence line....unloved and unused. Again, a good and useful video for those just starting out. But I do not understand the popularity of rotary mowers (except they are comparitively inexpensive) Thank you for the video.
Hi Mike. I was very surprised this evening when I tune in to your latest video and saw you reading my letter about rotary mowers. Thank you for all the info and the replay to my letter. I visited my local tractor dealer today and asked if a new mower would give me a better cut. He said the same as you, probably not, it's a rough cut mower. Thanks again, Tom
#6, the best tip. Get a flail mower. They're safer, easier to store, and provide a better cut than a bush hog or finish mower and you can have both Y and hammer blades to replace both machines with one. Plus, no windrows
You beat me to it. I rebuilt a dilapidated JD25A flail mower several years ago. I haven't moved my rotary cutter since. Great cut quality.
I change direction each trip and over-lap to cut the tractor tire track that mashed down the vegatation on the previous round. Helps me to get amuch better cut.
I was semi-unhappy for a few years with my brand new Land Pride 6' bush hog when I bought it. One day I decided to change directions and run clockwise and it was a night and day difference! Almost looks like it was cut with a mower.
I use a 1974 John Deere 2240 pulling a 1963 John Deere Rotary Mower.... great combo for this rocky, hilly, cedar infested ground. Does a heck of a job!!!
Good advice. Once had a Squeeler bush hog , it was tough. Although we made some modifications used it till it wasn’t practical to fix. Keep in mind my dad once told me they are brush hogs you aren’t supposed to cut timber with them!
Great tips Mike. Thanks for sharing
Good video. Thanks, Bob.
Thank you for the video.
Mike , I “raised” the rear guide wheel on my BH216. It now cuts much more evenly, doesn’t scalp the turf, and allows for cuttings to be discharged from the rear. Great advice. Thanks.
Excellent explanation sir.
I cut fields for a living. In my bag of tools is a land pride RCR 2672 rotary and a Alamo SHD 74 flail. They are different tools for different jobs. I couldn’t do my job properly and efficiently without both of them. So I’m my opinion, use the correct tool for the conditions and desired end result.
You sure help me out.im going level.thank you and I am supporting you my friend
I ordered my first item from your website. Just the grease gun and cartridges. I am a constant watcher and it is my favorite go to.
I cut in a clockwise direction, most of the material goes out the left side of my cutter. That helps some.
I had a guy that I worked with say that his rotary cutter doesn't do a good job when cutting grass. I tried to explain to him that a rotary cutter (ie. bush hog/brush hog) isn't really designed for that. I had another guy talking about sharpening the blades and couldn't understand why I told him that he was destroying the blades by doing that.
Mine does just fine (for me) when cutting fields of grass. Just run at pto speed and at a slower pace.
Yep, slower the more finish look
I love my finish mower.
Tip 6 - didn’t hear you say slow ground speed down and keep pto at 540 rpm etc. - I find this helps when I want a better cut ie give the blades time to cut.
Mike I owned a RZ60 several years ago now I have the SQ60 and the 296 72in I actually think the old cheap RZ60 gave a better cut than my other 2 newer ones
I run a sq 160 on a 8n. Great on flat ground. Hills are scary
Part of the slower blade tip speed on lighter cutters, is to accomodate lower HP PTO output of smaller tractors. Lighter weight rotary cutters are safer on lighter weight tractors.
Would reducing travel speed improve cut quality, as the blade will strike the same plant several times as it moves over it. I find that the wetness of the grass and weeds also makes cut quality worse, Dryer is better, but when you have to do all your cutting work in the evening or weekends, you can't be picky.
Did you say, slow down? Think of a rotary cutter like a power machete.
Use my zero turn 48" mower close to the front of the pasture and 6 ft rotary cutter for rest of grassy area. I can cut faster on zero turn even thought it is 2 feet less cut per pass. That way it looks good when folks drive by my place.
Hi Mike. On the tractor the lift handle has numbers on it. Is this an inch measurement? Not sure but I know the bottom position is the float mode and usually lets the bush hog drag the ground making marks in the dirt.
How about sharpening those blades?
Sharpened properly for a rotary cutter is not the same as for a finish mower. Leave them a little dull. More a chisle angle than a knife angle.
I only grind off when the blades look chipped. Don't want a crack spreading.
It is claimed that the RZ60 was made in the US by a non disclosed company.
I run a jd 3038e and a jbar 4ft cutter. In general, how big a sapling can that thing cut and not shear a pin?
Thanks Mike!
I see there is already a # 6 so I will call this # 7---Slow Down! Somewhere in the four MPH range will help.
Most grass is healthiest if you don't cut shorter than 5 inches...
I dont likethe idea of mulching everything up...there is little or no benefit to the soil that way.
I use my bush hog to cut overgrown land. That’s what it is designed to do. It has nothing to do with a finished mover. The two are two completely different implements. Not sure why people always compare the two like they are transgender. A brush cutter is for men, a finish mower is for little girls 😮