Hi all. This video I have made from my own personal experiences along the way. If you have experienced similar let us know what your issues were and what the cause was.
You can also use the exposed leader to test your developer and fixer. If a drop of developer turns into a black spot on the leader, the developer is good. Similarly, a short piece of leader dropped into a small amount of fixer should clear within a short time. I generally keep my fixer going until it takes more than a minute to clear. Fresh fixer should take less than thirty seconds.
I've not loaded my film properly in my Canon A1. disappointing, learnt from it, great informative video, thanks for taking the time to make it, cheers from Australia,
Ohhh my god, you've just solved my issue, I've been scratching my head all evening, I developed 2 rolls of film (both the same) one was perfect, the other was blank apart from the film info...I'd picked out the wrong film and developed a roll I hadn't shot yet! Relieved...thank you.
Great tips Roger. When ever I am loading 35mm film with a rewind crank, once the film is loaded and door closed I wind the crank back a little to tighten up the film and make sure the rewind crank is moving on the very first frame advance :)
Great video Roger! I load my 35mm on to the spool before I put it in to the changing bag, that would solve the mixed up film issue! It also helps with the trickiest bit in the dark. I've also under developed in the past with the mass Dev chart as I've not noticed the temperature! I always just use the Ilford chart now as I only use Ilford film. So many ways to cock up your negs!
The Mamiya RB 67 has a mirror lock up function on the lens. When turned on, you must trip the mirror and shutter separately using two different triggers. The normal button will only trip the mirror while a threaded cable release, screwed into lens, trips the shutter. I forgot to use a cable release on the lens mirror up port (shutter never opened) and went about composing some of the most beautiful images never seen.
Roger , my friend had a blank film with his Mamiya 645 . You can load the film two way's on the insert and the camera works perfect . If the printed side of the backpaper can be seen on the pressure plate it is wrong and you get a blank film . The backpaper has to be black . You know that , but some people make this beginner mistake . Peter .
Had a problem with the Lab Box daylight developing tank (since been solved). After developing two, maybe, three films, I'd decided to pull everything apart and clean it all out. When it came to putting it back together, the two sides of the spools weren't fastened on properly, which was completely my fault and this meant to film wasn't feeding on. Some photo's came out ether side of the middle but the rest was just a mass of pure white film, where it had all bunched up in the middle. This might be a Lab Box specific problem, I'm never used a Paterson tank but I've learnt my lesson: 'Read the instructions!"
They’re actually really good (if used correctly 🙂). Got mine dirt cheap of off eBay about a year ago. You should give it a try if you can get hold of one.
There is also one more possibility of getting a blank black & white film. By processing it accidentally in any color process. They all include bleaching before fixing, and this will remove all silver from the film. In color film, this is intentional, as the picture is made with dyes, and the silver image must be removed. But in black and white, silver makes the image. In B&W film, there are no couplers to produce dyes with the color developer, and so only black & white picture is formed, which will be removed in bleaching and fixing.
Developing process more or less ok (sometimes I want more contrast in my negative) but putting 35mm film in plastic reel in changing bag is always challenge... I assume humidity is raising inside bag and film is starting bend. Yea, drying room, drying reels with hair dryer sometimes helps.
Developed a roll with pictures of my newborn son with Rodinal and not with the Xtol stock I have at home to be on the “safe side”... so many times I read rodinal is still ok for a long time and mine was still within the expiration date... Well, Rodinal was bad/expired and I got a complete blank roll! Zero! Now, will always test the lead on 35mm and have a 35mm roll to test before developing 120 film...
Did that the first time I ever took my Nikon F3 out. thought I'd loaded the film right but it wasnt taking up properly so I was snapping away getting what I though was some wonderful shadow/light shots and wondering why the film counter kept going way past 36...didnt I feel stupid and disappointed when I realised what had happened. havent done it since though...lol
The Bronica lenses have a T-setting activated by lever on the bottom of the lens, locked by a screw. On mine its a bit lose even when locked, got a lot of funky images by accidently activating t mode and lost a lot of sweat while trying to find out if the body, the back or the lens is faulty ..
I use several cameras that works in a different way and sometimes happened that I've composed the photo because I could see into the viewfinder but the camera had the lens cap on... so in the negative I've seen later my mistake :-)
The frame counter broke mid-roll on my yashica electro 35. I wasn’t sure if I reached the end and for some reason I thought it was stuck on the last frame and I’d be taking multiple exposures. I now know it won’t let you advance when you’ve reached the end of the roll 😉The “price” of this learning experience - only 9 wasted frames of Fuji Superia so could be worse;)
I had a blank roll come out of a Hasselblad 500C/M recently (recent use in over 3 years, others are fine). It does slip occasionally, but I was confident it was advancing with each frame with the A12 back I had on. Absolute zero. Edge rebates were fine so I thought I must have had the incorrect T/O setting (I may have even exposed the backing paper). I've actually never thought about it, but the normal presence of the rebates I thought would indicate the film had been in the dev before the fix? Honestly, I've forgotten how rebates work. edit: sorry you mention this later. What do they call someone who has a problem with premature posting habits?
I shot 2 rolls of tri x 400 120 film that i hadnt opened for 7 years, and also developed them with chemicals that havent been used in 7 years. Safe to say that may be the reason for my problem but pls fill me in on where ive gone wrong. I shot on my hasselblad 503cx at various times of the day, adjusting settings drastically to test the film. Everything seemed to operate as normal, removed the film safely and-developed as follows: pre wash (1min)(water ran out dark blue)-ilfosol 3 dev (1:14) (12min)(water ran out brown/copper)-stop bath (1min)(water ran out almost clear)-ilford rapid fixer(5min)(water ran out pink/magenta)-rinse (10min) the film came out pink, blank, no film info showed up either. Could the problem be the 7year old film? 7year old developer and fixer? Could it be using ilford chemicals on kodak film? Could it be the hasselblad not exposing the film at all? There was no evidence of light on that film and im still confused! :( please help
If there are no edge marking on the film then it's possible the developer was bad and didn't work and the fixer just stripped away all of the silver on the film that didn't react with the developer. Leaving you with a totally clear film. If you're struggling feel free to email me, if I can help.
Oh yes. Film not winding properly...had that happen to me once. Was absolutely gutted because I thought I had some pretty good shots on there. It dawned on me when I looked at the film counter and it read „38“. Then I realized the crank wasn’t turning. Cack.... I think the phrase I used rhymes with „clucking bell“. Edit: I just remembered another cockup...it was with my lab box tank. The film somehow wormed its way off the spool and ended up in a tight roll at the bottom. Out of 15 frames I was able to salvage two and a half shots. So yeah, had I been more patient while spooling the roll it would have worked. Oh well.... And that time I accidentally made a bunch of multiple exposures because I forgot to advance the film before releasing the shutter....turns out that some medium format cameras let you do that, such as the RB67.
Not Loading correctly is popular Tim ha ha. I developed stopped fixed and washed an empty tank a while back lol. Don't even ask how I managed that. I was actually confused thinking "wheres my film gone?" 😂. Didn't load it
d Rewind Knob.:-)...it happened to me just a few weeks ago with a Yashica (fully automatic film transport), although d counter was showing correctly on the lcd display :-(
put the film the wrong way in my dad's hasselblad, then bought a canon eos 5000 which a very basic semi automatic camera which i can put my modern lenses on. I thins that if the cell in the camera is not happy, it doesn't take the picture. so here i was with half my roll blank... that was a good laugh x)
I’ve once had Rodinal go bad on me. Crystals had formed at the bottom of the bottle. Caught me off guard because I was always told Rodinal lasts forever. The resolution was a gin clear film.
I add this happen just last week. I wanted to finish off an old bottle of Rodinal, but it just ruined the film. I developed another roll using Rodinal from a newer bottle and it was fine. So yeah, Rodinal doesn't last forever.
It happened to me a couple of days ago...🙈 with a Fujicolour C200, developed with cheap Digibase C-41. The whole film came out clear. I have taken up film again after 25 years and very new to home developing. At first, I thought the developer was expired but I read that I should at least get something on the film... One thing that caught my attention was when I was pouring back the chemicals, they looked different colour, darker. I think I double checked if I was starting with the developer, which I think I did...🙈🙈🙈
@@buchsg I've heaps of negatives to root through. I highlighted this to ilford I initially thought it was something to do with developing process. Found it unusual only on a few rolls. Just thought I'd mention it. Just extra work to find the affected rolls.
Here's another idiotic mistake for you, from my former life as a pro news photographer: After a day of shooting a feature project in B&W I was short on sleep and sick with fever after a hard overnight return drive through the jungle... but overly eager to develop the film. Went into the office and started to load the film onto the spools, but for some reason I did it under the darkroom light and not in the changing bag. Only when I'd loaded all 6 rolls onto spools did the realization and panic overcome me. Developed anyway and what I got was essentially transparent negatives with barely a patch of grain visible. Felt absolutely sick after making such a stupid mistake! That was 22 years ago.. still think about it every time I finish a roll.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I did end up reshooting at a later date... but even that was overshadowed by a real struggle to find motivation and the deep sense that the pictures I'd taken last time were much better. The feeling was just enormous embarrassment over such a basic, stupid error! Subsequently I also had one or two accidental card reformatting button press blunders in the early days of full scale digital adoption in the news business around 2000/2001. The worst thing I heard though was of a fellow snapper, a die-hard film lover who refused to go ditch his Xpan, who couriered exposed but unprocessed Kodachrome back to the US from Afghanistan after 9/11, only to be told the slides had reached the news desk from Kodak with nothing on them.... turned out the canisters were carefully opened and inspected by Homeland Security. That was at the height of the anthrax-in-envelopes scare! Anyway thanks for the great content -- love the channel!
@@ssmith954 that's nuts! I know of Brian Duffy was shooting for vogue back in the 60s and the composer he was assigned to photograph only liked Leica because of the quite shutter but Brian hadn't shot a leica before and accidentally shot with the lens cap on! Luckily for him the lab guys, who vogue trusted, took the blame as Brian was new to vogue and would have been sacked.
The video is very helpful but i have a concern so please enlighten me. What will happen to the film roll if i wasn't able to develop it for a year cause the photo labs are far from my place. Your response is highly appreciated.
With fresh film It is recommended to develop the film as soon as it's been exposed and out of the camera but as long as the film has been stored in a cool place away from light and humidity it should be fine. Obviously the longer you leave it the more it will defoliate over the years.
I have an other question. I shoot with tri- X 400. Always use my photometer app. Somehow my pictures are sometime clearer and sometime more noisy while I am using the same setup. My films are from an expired stock. But could it really be that ? Or I am doing something wrong ? ( Camera Pentax Es II ) Thanks a lot .
Noise you see is the film grain. Grain comes with many different variables, agitation frequency, chemical temps, dilutions, developers. But if you're using the same developing method each time you shouldnt see a great difference. Even if your developing pattern is slightly altered. (missed invertion or a temp drop by a degree). You would however see a difference in your scene. Such as one film you're shooting street and another film lots of sky. If that makes sense. You'll see grain more in the sky.
I've made many many many mistakes with film, however it has also made me an authority on discovering "WHAT WENT WRONG" when people ask me what they did wrong. I've not been shooting film overly long, but long enough to make a lot of mistakes and learn from them. Still make mistakes, but it is what it is... unlike digital photography, film has a way of keeping you humble! hahahaha! Try shooting 8x10 Portra 400 and forgetting to flush the blix out of the rotary tube first... hahahah!
Hi I developed some black and white tri-x 400 yesterday with D96 and F96. I rince the two films rolls for 10 mn. Then when I wanted to dry then I noticed one side was sticky. It’s not transparent. Is this sticky layer normal or did I do something wrong ? Thanks.
It's normal for the film to be tacky when it's drying. Then once dried you should be able to feel the leader nice and dry and smooth. I wouldn't touch it when it's drying Charles.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thanks. I am asking that. Because it almost look or feel like some layer on top of the celluloid is willing to peel Of but didn’t. Like the part there is Kodak is not see through / transparent but have this layer. Thanks a lot for your reply !
@@themetropolitains expired film. Unless you purchased it from new and stored it in a cool dry place you never know what expired films have been exposed to "pardon the pun! ".
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss You totally right. It just seemed strange they were stocked in the same box but some reacted differently. I guess that’s the surprise with expired ones.
@@themetropolitains yes I had it a while ago. Two 120 kodaks. Same exp date. One developed with the frame numbers from the backing paper being burned into the film itself and the other was fine. One may have been sitting in a hot humid shed all that time and the other in a cool place. Put them together and sell them on...
hey im not sure if anyone would have an answer for my problem but i might as well ask. i developed a roll recently that only had four pictures develop right at the end of the roll but the rest was blank. the four frames that did develop where extra frames as in my camera let me cock more than 36 frames. does anyone know why this might ahve happened. for reference I'm using an Olympus om10 with a manual shutter speed adjuster
That's a shame. If your only the last few exposed images came out I would imagine there is possibly an issue with the camera. Open the back and take a load of shots at all apertures and make sure the blades are opening and the shutter isn't sticking. That's all I can think of.
That's possible if your developer didn't work and when you fixed it just stripped your film clean. I wonder how bad the developer has to be before that happens?
Yes. As long as you remove the remaining unexposed film from the camera in complete darkness. You will then have to use scissors to make a new leader so the film can load into the camera again.
If your film is blank after developing and you didn't pour in the fixer first then chances are is your camera is not exposing the film as it should. In other words it's not letting light hit the film.
Literally just deved 2 rolls of rollei one shot on an oly 35sp came out beautifully the second roll shot on a zenit 12xp just the edge info and very thin virtually none existent neg looks like the old Russian tank has a duff shutter 😔 cheers for vid mate interesting.
I've developed 2 films over the last few weeks. Same camera. First film had about 5 images on at the start then almost clear film the rest of the way. Very very faint images. Second time the whole spool was clear. I have no idea what's going on 😂
First time sounds like you've under exposed the remainder of the roll hence the faint negatives. Secomd roll, if its totally clear with no film frame numbers then it's possible you fixed the film before developing! If you can see the frame numbers then possibly another under expose issue or the camera isn't advancing the film.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss deff didn't fix first. I developed in living room fixed in bathroom. The 2 bottles are serperate so this doesn't happen, writing still on film. It spooled OK. You can feel it when you wind it back. I'm guessing the I build light meter is broken. I'll try another camerera and see how I get on
If you can change the lens on your camera such as an SLR there will be a curtain between the lens and film. The curtain opens and closes during exposure.
Hi all. This video I have made from my own personal experiences along the way. If you have experienced similar let us know what your issues were and what the cause was.
You can also use the exposed leader to test your developer and fixer. If a drop of developer turns into a black spot on the leader, the developer is good. Similarly, a short piece of leader dropped into a small amount of fixer should clear within a short time. I generally keep my fixer going until it takes more than a minute to clear. Fresh fixer should take less than thirty seconds.
That would be rapid fixer. Old style fixer would take 1-2 minutes to clear when it's fresh.
Worse feeling ever! Lol Besides a broken heart. But pretty damn close.
Thank you for this video, very helpful , i'm now more 'Focused' and def get the 'Picture 🙂
I've not loaded my film properly in my Canon A1. disappointing, learnt from it, great informative video, thanks for taking the time to make it, cheers from Australia,
Ohhh my god, you've just solved my issue, I've been scratching my head all evening, I developed 2 rolls of film (both the same) one was perfect, the other was blank apart from the film info...I'd picked out the wrong film and developed a roll I hadn't shot yet! Relieved...thank you.
Lol, common mistake
Great tips Roger. When ever I am loading 35mm film with a rewind crank, once the film is loaded and door closed I wind the crank back a little to tighten up the film and make sure the rewind crank is moving on the very first frame advance :)
That's a good idea Matt. Thanks.
Great video Roger! I load my 35mm on to the spool before I put it in to the changing bag, that would solve the mixed up film issue! It also helps with the trickiest bit in the dark. I've also under developed in the past with the mass Dev chart as I've not noticed the temperature! I always just use the Ilford chart now as I only use Ilford film. So many ways to cock up your negs!
The Mamiya RB 67 has a mirror lock up function on the lens. When turned on, you must trip the mirror and shutter separately using two different triggers. The normal button will only trip the mirror while a threaded cable release, screwed into lens, trips the shutter. I forgot to use a cable release on the lens mirror up port (shutter never opened) and went about composing some of the most beautiful images never seen.
Always the way. After best scenes. I spent two hours in the morning Wood fog once and my film wasn't advancing. Blank Negs!
Roger , my friend had a blank film with his Mamiya 645 . You can load the film two way's on the insert and the camera works perfect . If the printed side of the backpaper can be seen on the pressure plate it is wrong and you get a blank film . The backpaper has to be black . You know that , but some people make this beginner mistake . Peter .
did excatly that ...
I can relate to that having a 645 for about a year
Had a problem with the Lab Box daylight developing tank (since been solved). After developing two, maybe, three films, I'd decided to pull everything apart and clean it all out. When it came to putting it back together, the two sides of the spools weren't fastened on properly, which was completely my fault and this meant to film wasn't feeding on. Some photo's came out ether side of the middle but the rest was just a mass of pure white film, where it had all bunched up in the middle. This might be a Lab Box specific problem, I'm never used a Paterson tank but I've learnt my lesson: 'Read the instructions!"
I've never used a daylight box but I guess we can be stumped with all this gear at times.
They’re actually really good (if used correctly 🙂). Got mine dirt cheap of off eBay about a year ago. You should give it a try if you can get hold of one.
There is also one more possibility of getting a blank black & white film. By processing it accidentally in any color process. They all include bleaching before fixing, and this will remove all silver from the film. In color film, this is intentional, as the picture is made with dyes, and the silver image must be removed. But in black and white, silver makes the image. In B&W film, there are no couplers to produce dyes with the color developer, and so only black & white picture is formed, which will be removed in bleaching and fixing.
Developing process more or less ok (sometimes I want more contrast in my negative) but putting 35mm film in plastic reel in changing bag is always challenge... I assume humidity is raising inside bag and film is starting bend. Yea, drying room, drying reels with hair dryer sometimes helps.
Thank you for this. You learn from every mistake people!!!
You bet!
Developed a roll with pictures of my newborn son with Rodinal and not with the Xtol stock I have at home to be on the “safe side”... so many times I read rodinal is still ok for a long time and mine was still within the expiration date...
Well, Rodinal was bad/expired and I got a complete blank roll! Zero!
Now, will always test the lead on 35mm and have a 35mm roll to test before developing 120 film...
It's a good practice to adhere to if you can stick to it. I started to after a bad batch of developer once but I got out of the habit!
Did that the first time I ever took my Nikon F3 out. thought I'd loaded the film right but it wasnt taking up properly so I was snapping away getting what I though was some wonderful shadow/light shots and wondering why the film counter kept going way past 36...didnt I feel stupid and disappointed when I realised what had happened. havent done it since though...lol
The Bronica lenses have a T-setting activated by lever on the bottom of the lens, locked by a screw.
On mine its a bit lose even when locked, got a lot of funky images by accidently activating t mode and lost a lot of sweat while trying to find out if the body, the back or the lens is faulty ..
I use several cameras that works in a different way and sometimes happened that I've composed the photo because I could see into the viewfinder but the camera had the lens cap on... so in the negative I've seen later my mistake :-)
I have done this a few times when I am using an SLR and RF on the same shoot, need to remember to remove the cap and keep it in my pocket :)
@@keimahane Exactly! Now, as soon as I take out the RF from the backpack I take the lens cap off :-)
This is very helpful 🙏🏻
The frame counter broke mid-roll on my yashica electro 35. I wasn’t sure if I reached the end and for some reason I thought it was stuck on the last frame and I’d be taking multiple exposures. I now know it won’t let you advance when you’ve reached the end of the roll 😉The “price” of this learning experience - only 9 wasted frames of Fuji Superia so could be worse;)
Ha ha at least you got some. My electro 35 also broke. Light meter issues
I had a blank roll come out of a Hasselblad 500C/M recently (recent use in over 3 years, others are fine). It does slip occasionally, but I was confident it was advancing with each frame with the A12 back I had on. Absolute zero. Edge rebates were fine so I thought I must have had the incorrect T/O setting (I may have even exposed the backing paper). I've actually never thought about it, but the normal presence of the rebates I thought would indicate the film had been in the dev before the fix? Honestly, I've forgotten how rebates work.
edit: sorry you mention this later. What do they call someone who has a problem with premature posting habits?
I shot 2 rolls of tri x 400 120 film that i hadnt opened for 7 years, and also developed them with chemicals that havent been used in 7 years. Safe to say that may be the reason for my problem but pls fill me in on where ive gone wrong. I shot on my hasselblad 503cx at various times of the day, adjusting settings drastically to test the film. Everything seemed to operate as normal, removed the film safely and-developed as follows: pre wash (1min)(water ran out dark blue)-ilfosol 3 dev (1:14) (12min)(water ran out brown/copper)-stop bath (1min)(water ran out almost clear)-ilford rapid fixer(5min)(water ran out pink/magenta)-rinse (10min) the film came out pink, blank, no film info showed up either. Could the problem be the 7year old film? 7year old developer and fixer? Could it be using ilford chemicals on kodak film? Could it be the hasselblad not exposing the film at all? There was no evidence of light on that film and im still confused! :( please help
If there are no edge marking on the film then it's possible the developer was bad and didn't work and the fixer just stripped away all of the silver on the film that didn't react with the developer. Leaving you with a totally clear film. If you're struggling feel free to email me, if I can help.
Oh yes. Film not winding properly...had that happen to me once. Was absolutely gutted because I thought I had some pretty good shots on there. It dawned on me when I looked at the film counter and it read „38“. Then I realized the crank wasn’t turning. Cack....
I think the phrase I used rhymes with „clucking bell“.
Edit: I just remembered another cockup...it was with my lab box tank. The film somehow wormed its way off the spool and ended up in a tight roll at the bottom. Out of 15 frames I was able to salvage two and a half shots. So yeah, had I been more patient while spooling the roll it would have worked. Oh well....
And that time I accidentally made a bunch of multiple exposures because I forgot to advance the film before releasing the shutter....turns out that some medium format cameras let you do that, such as the RB67.
Not Loading correctly is popular Tim ha ha. I developed stopped fixed and washed an empty tank a while back lol. Don't even ask how I managed that. I was actually confused thinking "wheres my film gone?" 😂. Didn't load it
d Rewind Knob.:-)...it happened to me just a few weeks ago with a Yashica (fully automatic film transport), although d counter was showing correctly on the lcd display :-(
Ouch... That's worse. At least You can feel as you advance if the film isn't advancing on older cameras. If you're used to it.
put the film the wrong way in my dad's hasselblad, then bought a canon eos 5000 which a very basic semi automatic camera which i can put my modern lenses on. I thins that if the cell in the camera is not happy, it doesn't take the picture. so here i was with half my roll blank... that was a good laugh x)
Ha ha funny story
I’ve once had Rodinal go bad on me. Crystals had formed at the bottom of the bottle. Caught me off guard because I was always told Rodinal lasts forever. The resolution was a gin clear film.
Ohhh... I've had rodinal crystallise but usually only when it's very low
I add this happen just last week. I wanted to finish off an old bottle of Rodinal, but it just ruined the film. I developed another roll using Rodinal from a newer bottle and it was fine. So yeah, Rodinal doesn't last forever.
I feel you've made this video specifically for me..... I'm the eejit putting the cornflakes back in the box ;-)
on my first roll of Ilford orto, I put on a red filter! orto a film not sensitive to red light, I think you can see the problem
Yes I featured that in my ortho video a while back. Easy mistake to make if you're not used to Ortho film!
It happened to me a couple of days ago...🙈 with a Fujicolour C200, developed with cheap Digibase C-41. The whole film came out clear. I have taken up film again after 25 years and very new to home developing. At first, I thought the developer was expired but I read that I should at least get something on the film... One thing that caught my attention was when I was pouring back the chemicals, they looked different colour, darker. I think I double checked if I was starting with the developer, which I think I did...🙈🙈🙈
Happens to us all at some time!!
I certainly won't make that mistake again.
Any issue with ilford negative after development. White specks like film has been burnt?
Never seen that
minisla contact Ilford directly, they are aware of this issue from some batches, they will send you another roll(s)
@@buchsg I've heaps of negatives to root through. I highlighted this to ilford I initially thought it was something to do with developing process. Found it unusual only on a few rolls. Just thought I'd mention it. Just extra work to find the affected rolls.
Fingerprints...?
Here's another idiotic mistake for you, from my former life as a pro news photographer:
After a day of shooting a feature project in B&W I was short on sleep and sick with fever after a hard overnight return drive through the jungle... but overly eager to develop the film.
Went into the office and started to load the film onto the spools, but for some reason I did it under the darkroom light and not in the changing bag. Only when I'd loaded all 6 rolls onto spools did the realization and panic overcome me. Developed anyway and what I got was essentially transparent negatives with barely a patch of grain visible.
Felt absolutely sick after making such a stupid mistake!
That was 22 years ago.. still think about it every time I finish a roll.
Oh no! I can't imagine how you felt. Did you re-shoot or had the moment past? Still happens today on digital with currupt cards!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I did end up reshooting at a later date... but even that was overshadowed by a real struggle to find motivation and the deep sense that the pictures I'd taken last time were much better. The feeling was just enormous embarrassment over such a basic, stupid error!
Subsequently I also had one or two accidental card reformatting button press blunders in the early days of full scale digital adoption in the news business around 2000/2001.
The worst thing I heard though was of a fellow snapper, a die-hard film lover who refused to go ditch his Xpan, who couriered exposed but unprocessed Kodachrome back to the US from Afghanistan after 9/11, only to be told the slides had reached the news desk from Kodak with nothing on them.... turned out the canisters were carefully opened and inspected by Homeland Security. That was at the height of the anthrax-in-envelopes scare!
Anyway thanks for the great content -- love the channel!
@@ssmith954 that's nuts! I know of Brian Duffy was shooting for vogue back in the 60s and the composer he was assigned to photograph only liked Leica because of the quite shutter but Brian hadn't shot a leica before and accidentally shot with the lens cap on! Luckily for him the lab guys, who vogue trusted, took the blame as Brian was new to vogue and would have been sacked.
The video is very helpful but i have a concern so please enlighten me. What will happen to the film roll if i wasn't able to develop it for a year cause the photo labs are far from my place. Your response is highly appreciated.
With fresh film It is recommended to develop the film as soon as it's been exposed and out of the camera but as long as the film has been stored in a cool place away from light and humidity it should be fine. Obviously the longer you leave it the more it will defoliate over the years.
My own personal experience was to go out with my rangefinder camera shot a whole roll of film and found I did not take the lens cap off 😉
Another shooter said that also ha ha. I've never done that but can only imagine I'd laugh after
I have an other question. I shoot with tri- X 400. Always use my photometer app. Somehow my pictures are sometime clearer and sometime more noisy while I am using the same setup. My films are from an expired stock. But could it really be that ? Or I am doing something wrong ? ( Camera Pentax Es II ) Thanks a lot .
Noise you see is the film grain. Grain comes with many different variables, agitation frequency, chemical temps, dilutions, developers. But if you're using the same developing method each time you shouldnt see a great difference. Even if your developing pattern is slightly altered. (missed invertion or a temp drop by a degree). You would however see a difference in your scene. Such as one film you're shooting street and another film lots of sky. If that makes sense. You'll see grain more in the sky.
I've made many many many mistakes with film, however it has also made me an authority on discovering "WHAT WENT WRONG" when people ask me what they did wrong.
I've not been shooting film overly long, but long enough to make a lot of mistakes and learn from them.
Still make mistakes, but it is what it is... unlike digital photography, film has a way of keeping you humble! hahahaha!
Try shooting 8x10 Portra 400 and forgetting to flush the blix out of the rotary tube first... hahahah!
Hi I developed some black and white tri-x 400 yesterday with D96 and F96. I rince the two films rolls for 10 mn. Then when I wanted to dry then I noticed one side was sticky. It’s not transparent. Is this sticky layer normal or did I do something wrong ?
Thanks.
It's normal for the film to be tacky when it's drying. Then once dried you should be able to feel the leader nice and dry and smooth. I wouldn't touch it when it's drying Charles.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thanks. I am asking that. Because it almost look or feel like some layer on top of the celluloid is willing to peel Of but didn’t. Like the part there is Kodak is not see through / transparent but have this layer. Thanks a lot for your reply !
@@themetropolitains expired film. Unless you purchased it from new and stored it in a cool dry place you never know what expired films have been exposed to "pardon the pun! ".
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss You totally right. It just seemed strange they were stocked in the same box but some reacted differently. I guess that’s the surprise with expired ones.
@@themetropolitains yes I had it a while ago. Two 120 kodaks. Same exp date. One developed with the frame numbers from the backing paper being burned into the film itself and the other was fine. One may have been sitting in a hot humid shed all that time and the other in a cool place. Put them together and sell them on...
hey im not sure if anyone would have an answer for my problem but i might as well ask. i developed a roll recently that only had four pictures develop right at the end of the roll but the rest was blank. the four frames that did develop where extra frames as in my camera let me cock more than 36 frames. does anyone know why this might ahve happened. for reference I'm using an Olympus om10 with a manual shutter speed adjuster
That's a shame. If your only the last few exposed images came out I would imagine there is possibly an issue with the camera. Open the back and take a load of shots at all apertures and make sure the blades are opening and the shutter isn't sticking. That's all I can think of.
I once used an old developer and got the film completely blank out of it, no film information.
That's possible if your developer didn't work and when you fixed it just stripped your film clean. I wonder how bad the developer has to be before that happens?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I think that has happened. I used Rodinal, but only a small amount was left in the bottle and was not used for a year.
Hi can i ask what if my film cam broke and then i have remaining shots inside the cam, can i still use it on my other film cam?
Yes. As long as you remove the remaining unexposed film from the camera in complete darkness. You will then have to use scissors to make a new leader so the film can load into the camera again.
i still dont understand why my Praktica B100 is having this problem... i think it might be a technical one :-(
the shutter speed isnt working probably though, it seemes stucked at a certain speed
If your film is blank after developing and you didn't pour in the fixer first then chances are is your camera is not exposing the film as it should. In other words it's not letting light hit the film.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss yes i have been thinking about it.... what should i do in this circumstance?
Literally just deved 2 rolls of rollei one shot on an oly 35sp came out beautifully the second roll shot on a zenit 12xp just the edge info and very thin virtually none existent neg looks like the old Russian tank has a duff shutter 😔 cheers for vid mate interesting.
Damn!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss it’s actually the mirror that’s munted the shutters fine I reckon it’s Deffo a display model now 🙄
How about chemicals, what’s the life span of developer?
I've developed 2 films over the last few weeks. Same camera. First film had about 5 images on at the start then almost clear film the rest of the way. Very very faint images. Second time the whole spool was clear. I have no idea what's going on 😂
First time sounds like you've under exposed the remainder of the roll hence the faint negatives. Secomd roll, if its totally clear with no film frame numbers then it's possible you fixed the film before developing! If you can see the frame numbers then possibly another under expose issue or the camera isn't advancing the film.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss deff didn't fix first. I developed in living room fixed in bathroom. The 2 bottles are serperate so this doesn't happen, writing still on film. It spooled OK. You can feel it when you wind it back. I'm guessing the I build light meter is broken. I'll try another camerera and see how I get on
@@emeraldscorpio yes somehow your film is getting hardly any exposure. Check your camera lens aperture.
It's a rewind crank.
What if i change the lens does my film burn ?
If you can change the lens on your camera such as an SLR there will be a curtain between the lens and film. The curtain opens and closes during exposure.
It's called the rewind crank
That's it lol. I knew it was a technical term Graham.
I never did a mistake! I only got new challenges! :-)
Film is ohkk but border not clear little one colour films border faded
Are you all Americans?