WHICH IS BETTER? Rebuilt OEM vs Cheap Replacement Axles
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- When something on your car breaks, no one WANTS to spend lots of money just to get it working again. There are always cheaper options than buying parts from the dealership. If you can find the OEM part number, you can usually find it for a bit cheaper online, but it still isn’t cheap.
The axles on my Honda started to click on me and I had them replaced with a set of cheap aftermarkets. OEM axles for my car are $1100 for the pair, which is insane. The cheap aftermarket ones go for less than $150, but you will be going through them like gasoline; they won’t last. I’ve gone through 4 cheap sets and these are still clicking on me. I still don’t want to buy OEM ones since they’re still stupidly priced and do not include a warranty, which is why I bought these new hand-built axles from RAXLES.
Coming in at HALF the price for BETTER quality axles with a LIFETIME warrnty, its a no brainer. Taken directly from their website, “We were the first company to use new CV joints exclusively on every CV axle we sell. Our goal is to become first in the nation when it comes to Original Equipment quality CV axles and joints. Not only are we a global supplier of the best CV axles in the industry, to the top dealerships, auto repair shops, auto parts stores, and racing teams, we also sell directly to the consumer. If you want the finest CV axles on the market, we invite you to find out more.”
You can also purchased ‘built’ axles which are rated for more power than stock. If your vehicle is producing more power than stock, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to get upgraded axles to reliably withstand the beating you will be giving them.
As for the install, the tools I used can be found below, and the torque specs can be found below that.
///// LINKS TO PRODUCTS👇 /////
RAXLES Website ▶︎ goo.gl/YheUDc
OTC Front End Kit (Pullers) ▶︎ goo.gl/kzzTZa
Sunex 12-Point Nut Axle Socket Set ▶︎ goo.gl/uTUVpD
1/2” Torque Wrench (250 ft-lbs) ▶︎ goo.gl/kT9Pyn
OTC Pry Bars ▶︎ goo.gl/pY48GR
Gearwrench Pliers Set ▶︎ goo.gl/GZF6vY
Gearwrench Hook & Pick Set ▶︎ goo.gl/7SsLHY
Ball Peen Hammer Set ▶︎ goo.gl/e3yrE5
Copper Antiseize ▶︎ goo.gl/5Xig66
Gearwrench Ratchet Set ▶︎ goo.gl/qbQSVC
Genius 1/2” Impact Socket ▶︎ goo.gl/KaF8H6
Punch Set ▶︎ goo.gl/sxbdEF
DeWalt Cordless Impact Driver ▶︎ goo.gl/EGXdtm
Camera Used for this Video ▶︎ goo.gl/Tnxgj1
///// TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS 👇 /////
Axle Nut - 242 ft-lbs.
Upper Damper Fork Bolt - 36 ft-lbs.
Lower Damper Fork Nut - 47 ft-lbs.
Upper Ball Joint Nut - 35 ft-lbs.
Lower Ball Joint Nut - 62 ft-lbs.
Outer Tie Rod Nut - 40 ft-lbs.
Lug Nut - 80 ft-lbs.
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UA-cam Channel ▶︎ / milanmastracci
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Facebook Page ▶︎ / milanmastracci
///// YOU CAN SEND ME STUFF HERE 👇 /////
MILAN MASTRACCI
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If you have any additional questions, feel free to send me an email at milanmastracci@gmail.com. Be sure to tag me on Instagram @milmast so I can see what you guys are up to as well. Thank you so much for watching!!
I'm in my 60s and I love when I see young guys not afraid to get their hands dirty. Not enough of that going on these days- much respect your way for sure. Good job showing the differences. The rubber 'balancer' is also known as a 'frequency dampener' - and yes- the cheap sub
In my experience:
Aftermarket axles will often have different construction, such as hollow shaft tubing and lack of rubber balance weight. They're often not balanced well and will cause vibration at high vehicle speeds. They're more prone to rust breakage since they're usually inferior metal and sometimes hollow. They usually have cheap grease and poor heat treatment of the bearing surfaces.
Reman axles don't last long because of how they refurb them. The cheap way is to machine the bearing surfaces in the joints that are worn and galled up, and fit oversize bearings. The damage and the process of milling that damaged surface smooth removes the factory case hardening which is often not replaced by a second round of heat treating. If it is treated, it may not be a high quality deep hardening. The soft surface gets worn and hammered by use when it's reinstalled regardless of grease or driving style. You'll have high quality shafts and joint cups and splines, but those soft bearing surfaces and replacement bearings are not up to the task of lasting for a long time. It's deceiving!
I personally try to buy low mileage, rust-free used axles from a junk yard. You'll get a factory OE axle that has not been molested, and if the car was simply rear ended or T boned, the risk of axle damage is very minimal.
If you have to remove the axle ans the vehicle has over 50k miles, replace the axle shaft seal in the transaxle case as insurance.
That is true with most cheaper aftermarket axles. The thing about Raxles Axles is that they don't reuse or remanufacture the old bearings and joints, they will replace with them BRAND NEW ones which makes their quality to top notch. The price does somewhat reflect it, however quality parts carry a higher price tag. So far though, they're well worth it.
@@milanmastracci Excellent. You get what you pay for with CV axles. Same goes for starters, alternators, calipers, and compressors. If you buy the low tier remans, they are probably DOA. It hurts to shell out for premium parts but you'll only pay for it once.
@@milanmastracci hey brow. Whats the website that you buy those raxles cv axle from? I'm hearing some sound coming from my front end but not when I'm turning,only when I'm moving off. I need two.
The whole reason I need to replace my OEM axle at only 75k miles is due to poor build quality. I don't really see any downside to going cheap on the replacement. $545 for a new OEM axle vs $67 for aftermarket.
@@nodak81when they break in 30k miles and you have to redo the job you will look back and wish you went with oe
I recently bought an axle from Raxles, but I don't plan to buy from them again. Total cost with taxes and two way shipping for driver side axle was $326. Keep in mind, that if I did not have an OEM axle that looks good (not rusty) to return to them, I would have been hit with a core charge of about $75. If I didn't have my OEM axle, I would have paid about $375 for an axle. That's not the end. So four months later I'm getting this vibration and I pulled the axle from Raxles and the outer joint is binding, so that's a damaged joint. Yes, lifetime warranty, but they're going to want $60 for a replacement (I gotta pay for two way shipping). At this point if I want a good axle, my total will be $386 ($326+$60). Keep in mind, I am installing the axle myself, otherwise I'd have to pay a mechanic to swap the axles. It's been frustrating to say the least. I recently bought a good used OEM axle for my TSX on eBay for $60 and I am rebuilding it myself. Wish me luck.
How did the rebuild go? Starting to look for cv axles for my tl but I'm thinking just going to the stealership
@@flacko001 The rebuild was challenging because one of the joints of the used axle I got from ebay was binding and stuck. Luckily I had another exact same joint from an OEM axle I pulled from the salvage yard a year earlier. I bought the boot kit from the dealer and got the job done. The rebuilt axle has been good for 2+years so far. It's a lot of work to rebuild. A cheaper alternative that I am willing to try next time is an axle from Insane Shafts. They make axles for racing applications, so they should be solid to say the least. I recorded myself doing the axle rebuild but I never had the chance to make the video for youtube. It's on my list of videos to make, I should get it done around Summer this year.
I used Raxle on my 2002 wrx
Very happy with price and customer service. That was about 2 years ago so around. 15,000 miles with no issues
My Raxles stayed strong for about 15 years in New York city, which is hard on everything. I guess it was around 100,000 miles. One of the boots finally ripped but I drove it for years with a ripped boot and when the Subaru died a sudden timing belt death at 240k the axles still had not started to click yet.
I have pulled the plug on remanufactured parts, including axles. Brake calipers are the only thing I will use remanufactured unless there's no other practical choice. The aftermarket new axles have treated me well over the years, but with no hot-rodding kind of use to go with them.
Honestly, I think it goes back to the old saying. You get what you pay for if you buy cheap aftermarket parts. You're going to get cheap aftermarket. Parks, sometimes you can get remanufactured. Axles, that are not very good either. Depending on who remanufactured, then and how it was done. I do like the idea of oem parts, but companies build their reputations on their work. Be careful out there. Don't be too cheap, but don't be an idiot. Either paying $600 for a brand new O. AM axle from the factory?
Raxles are the best. I have used four sets on various cars and never had a problem. The problem with the aftermarket axles is that they re-grind the surfaces for the balls that allow the CV joints to flex. Once they grind, they remove the heat-treated hardening of the bearing surfaces that the balls glide on. While they are still steel, they are no longer hardened steel and they will wear about 10 times faster than CV joints with hardened surfaces. Raxles only uses newly manufactured CV joints that are all new hardened steel. About the only thing you get on a Raxles axle that is not new is the axle shaft itself. These shafts are all checked for straightness and straightened if needed.
There is an advantage to new aftermarket axles that I didn't see in the top 20 comments. You will notice that there is a rubber weight on remanufactured axles, that is a dampener to make up for the axle not being balanced. With new aftermarket axles they are built as a balanced unit and don't need the dampener.
That said, you have lowered your Honda, and you are putting NON-OEM stress on your CV joints. When a car is higher the CV shaft extends to a relaxed position. When your car is lowered the joint is compressed, jamming it and limiting mobility. You need shorter axles. The "high quality axle" will fail if it is the stock length. In other words expect them to last about the same as the "cheap" axles.
OEM axles have the dampeners on them, and they are also built as balanced units.
What I learned from fixing cars since high school is your best bet is always OEM, after that you can go with used oem from junkyard or salvage yard, last is rebuilt oem.
Has anything changed yet?
@@robmendoza6210 i would say performance aftermarket is your second bet, basically premium racing parts.
One should always be ready to plug the transmission when pulling out a half shaft! Or end up with transmission fluid all over the ground! Find a bottle cap the same size as your opening! Also, With the half shaft out, That would be the perfect time to lube your inner race & also grease your output shaft! Now for those in the northeast, use a cookie wheel on a die grinder & clean up the rust or oxidation on the hub & inner part of the wheel. Good time to inspect the brakes & lube the guides! I also use my 90 degree die grinder to clean up my brake guides & etc. Always grease the axle where it pushes threw the hub & rotor to prevent it from rusting/oxidizing!
Love Raxles, Marty is a great guy and makes a quality product👍 Pay once, cry once.
This is a common problem with Hondas. The aftermarket axles will give you problems, headaches, and waste your time and money. I've done it myself, haha. I noticed the aftermarket axles don't come with that rubber damper in the middle of the shaft. You can rebuild the axle yourself with OEM axles from the salvage yard and OEM boot kit, but it is a messy job and requires persistence and band clamp tools, I've done it and don't recommend it for a noob. Currently, my driver side axle needs replacement, I'm going to give Raxles a try.
How were raxles ? I’m going to replace my Axles but don’t wanna buy Duralast or really any other aftermarket brand except raxles if I see more good reviews
@@gioo2961 They were expensive for what you get. I ended up with an axle that is binding at one of the joints. Car was vibrating on the side the Raxle axle was put in. I took it off and the vibrations went away. I have to send it back to them for repair but I need to pay for shipping to send it back. They need the core of your OEM axle or they give you a core charge. Why? Because they reuse the OEM axle core and add their aftermarket parts to it and sell it back out to other ppl. They don't use OEM CV joints and they don't use OEM dampers. I wouldn't buy from them again. Next time I plan to try Insane Shafts which makes racing application axles which should be more than adequate for normal driving. I ended up rebuilding my own OEM axle with parts from OEM axles that I pulled from the same car at the salvage yard. I know how to identify an OEM axle so it was easy for me to find OEM axles at the salvage yard. You can also find used OEM axles on eBay. I bought one on Ebay and one CV joint was binding, so only half the axle was usable but it was still worth it for the parts.
@@ChavezDIY Thank you for taking the time to respond! I think im gonna pick up the 500HP axles off "insane axles" a big fear of mine is the "Raxles" brand being dishonest when they claim to use OEM parts Thanks again and i will let you kniow what i end up doing.
it moves inside your gearbox....
I've never checked axles the way he did. Up down motion on inner joint is normal. Slam the nut home with the wheels off with an impact gun is fine. One last thing, a cracking noise coming from either side with the brake applied and giving it gentle gas usually indicates a loose axle nut. You get it on a reverse to drive typically in a parking lot maneuver.
Thanks bro..I have a same problem with my Honda civic 13 the original axle cost 340$ but I found same axle in Amazon for 120$ thank you again for open my mind...
First, let me say I'm not a super tuner just some old dude with a stock 03 2.4 lx. I've babied (no accidents, hitting the curb, etc.) the car since new and the axles lasted 102K miles. What does that say about factory OEM? Yea, I get it before anyone offers a snarky comment they did last 19 years and 102 but I can't justify paying $1K for new OEM and haven't thought about reman OEMs. If aftermarket new lasts
yep yep the cheap china made cvs I bought wore out in 20,000 miles 😆😆😆😆😆soo back to OEM for me
Raxles are awesome! I put a set on my Subaru at about 100,000 Miles(about 161,000Km for the Canadians) 100,000 miles later and many icy winters I noticed a rubber boot was ripped. I just continued to drive it with a ripped boot up to almost a quarter million miles. The car finally bit the dust but the Raxles were still working fine even with a ripped boot.
What brand and where did you get your rebuilt axles? Thanks for any response. I'm looking for some for my Subaru outback right now. Oh I see there's a company called Raxles now. I assumed that was a short way of saying rebuilt. My bad
@@jackle842000 I would say if you think you have a year or more to drive your car, it is worth the extra price of Raxles but still way cheaper than the stealership. As I found out changing the life time warranty $60 rebuilds found at your everyday auto parts store wastes a lot of time because you have to change them every 6 month to a few years. Raxles stands behind their axles for life. The only problem is the time lost when you have to remove and ship, which I never had to do.
Wow! When did this become a thing? When I was your age we always went oem rebuilds not new or cheap knockoffs. Ok I lied I’m older than that we actually had to rebuild them ourselves for awhile as there was no cores yet. Lol
You can always jam a screwdriver in one of the disc vents to stop the axle from spinning when you tighten the axle nut
What if your screw driver doesnt have vents?
Thats how i did my honda
sometimes the CV boots don't tare but the CV knocks and clicks and my car is stock
Great Job Milan, I think now I know why my car is making a noise when I turn.
Why's that?
milanmastracci Because whe I turn my wheel to the left side especially when I start to drive I feel some bump/low noise, and it might be from the Axles .
From someone that road races FWD Hondas, I can destroy a parts-store axle in 20 minutes of racing. OEM Honda axles are extremely hard to beat for quality, however they are hard to find and you need to know what you are doing if you are going to rebuild them yourself. I hoard RSX axles for good reasons!
the way the inner axle housing is wobbling it looks like your differential bearings are worn out..
I used trakmotive axles with lifetime warranty and the boots are crap quality but axle itself is solid.
Got a left Drive Shaft replacement 2 months ago on a 2002 Volvo S80:
I bought this aftermarket part from this store. It is hard to find drive shaft for my volvo, because It equipped with the GM 4T65EV transmission. But finally I found on polar parts website.
On the left side the transmission oil started to leak.... Maybe old seal...
OK Then we replaced the SEAL:
I bought VOLVO ORIGINAL seal...
After 1 month, It started to leak AGAIN.
What can cause it?
- Can a seal installed incorrectly? badly?
- Can an aftermarket drive shaft misfits and cause transmission oil leaks?
I am really tired, spent a lot money on this drive the car back every time to repair center.
Did you have any vibration when accelerating?
While driving?
Another method is to get steel cable or non stretch rope. Tie a loop in them that fits in behind the axle yoke. Feed a length of the cable out about 3 foot past the wheel arch. Tie the outboard end to a sledgehammer or similar. Then do your best tiger woods impression and give it a little swing and boom. Out she pops.
Well made video, but I can't stop talkking back at the video. If you are chewing through that many CV joints, you have an issue with an exaggerated angle or vibration or something else. The play you demonstrate is including the differential. The clicking when you accelerate and turn is CV joints. The noises made when stationary and turning the wheel are not a typical indicator of CV joints.
I think what it is is it's the quality of the boot what makes the difference they say that a boot can last as long as the car
How have the Raxles held up?
I have raxles on my Acura TL, they're amazing.
Hopefully someone reads this and help me out. I recently upgraded my struts In May 2023. I never had any vibrations or rubbing with my old OEM AV axels with the NEW struts in. Recently couple weeks ago I had auto shop changed out my CV axels because the driver side had tons of play like hella play like loosey-goosey type of play. Now that they are in I’m getting some type of vibration/rubbing feeling and those are aftermarket CvV has anyone had the same issue if so help a brotha out 😎✌🏽
I have exact same issue but with my Nissan Titan , 5 axles aftermarket in one year , the last one last only 1 month .....crazy
Hey Milan. So I was driving down highway 11 passing by Barrie last night when a clean 240 passed. But it took me a few seconds to realize that it had to be your old 240. Sake colour, same rims, same dark tint and same exhaust. Sadly didn't get the chance to ask the driver if they bought it off of you
Hey Andy, that was 100% him.. There aren't many people with the same colour, wheels, ride height, tint, and all that in Ontario. A Silver moss 240 is stupid rare enough, let alone mentioning the same mods. The guy that bought the car from me is named Scott, super nice guy!! 👍
In Finland, there is a saying: "A poor person cannot afford to cheap out". Ie. buy a high quality (OEM) item instead of a cheapo part, as you more often than not will end up spending more money by buying the same thing multiple times.
depends, in the US there is lots of options for cheapo parts that will get the job done and not spend exorbitant amounts that some oem parts demand
I have zero issues at all with cheap ones on my crv
Accords have the worst OEM axles in its class along with power steering system issues. But other than that extremely reliable.
The Raxles are obviously the best of you have the money .. but I've had zero issues with the *cardone and cardone select* axles if you are looking for a cheaper alternative. They offer new ones and rebuilt OEM. I have bought both. I had the new ones on my Maxima for 150k and had zero issues and currently have on my G with zero issues at 20k and come with a lifetime warranty I believe
I've gone with Cardones and they began to click in a matter of a few weeks
Cardone is low quality garbage.
That rubber do-nut is not a balance item, it's a vibration damper
Well my factory axel broke in half just wear the absorber is They said it collects moisture there and rusts out .I just replaced mine 77 dollars we will see Runs perfect so far
This is actually a really well made video, more often than not any automotive tutorial will be poorly made. But I actually enjoyed the video,
ya except he is very poorly educated on what he is repairing
How come there are so many problems with CV-shafts? I have had a lot of cars, Volvos, Saabs, BMWs, Opels, Toyotas, Mazdas, Peugeots and VWs. Been driving them up to between 100000 to 20000 miles (160000 - 320000 km) before selling them on. Only once I had to replace an CV-joint and that was an Mazda 323 with a torn CV boot that had about 80000 miles on it. And I can tell you that where I live some of the roads are really bad and so are the winters.
Sucks that the OEM for the accord are that expensive. They were
Where can I buy these Axles at
How long did your reman'd axles last? Is it possible that your suspension mods are stressing the axle and causing premature wear?
I believe you are right .I replaced my drivers side for 77 doesn't have that absorber in it ,that is where mine broke and they said it collects moister there and rusts That's exactly what happened to mine.No problem now
@@skatman3872 what brand and from where?
@@hectorvanegas11 my axel lasted 180,000 miles Bought a new one at advanced auto No problems so far
Got the brand name?
@@hectorvanegas11 I thru the box away It was a blue box yellow writing on .But ask advanced auto parts was 77 bucks
great job! Experiencing road vibration and feel it in the steering wheel of my 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe. Maybe I have a starting point. Thanks.
Not everything cheap is bad, it depends who makes it, you never said how much you paid, RAXLES Website does not say the price there is where the surprise is.
Fender liner is not looking typical milanmastracci spotless. just sayin'
#DailyDriven
I noticed that you are lowered. After the install of new cv axles. Did the noise returned? Im curious because after i lowered my ride with the coilovers these noises like you had were happening. To also say, that i had the oreillys cv axles which are not so balance i heard. Id like to stay lowered but not sure if i should raise the car again to stop the noise or should i replace for a better cv axles like you have. Thanks for any help!
Do not buy any axles from Stockwise or ProStock auto. They might also go by CARIO at 330 North Midland Avenue NJ. The axle we ordered from mfg CSP was wrong, it had a smaller diameter spline than the 2001 A4 had. We sent back the incorrect part and they send us back the same box we sent them. CSP had packaged the part wrong. Parts house refused to fix or refund. We got the wrong part from CSP from two different parts suppliers, had to specify a different manufacture.
Raxel is a real small business. Marty wants you to call him. He does not have sales people, no customer service, no online form or shopping cart to order an axel, no inventory. If you need a raxel axel soon, forget about it.
I'm not familiar with your Accord, but does it have a cross-member for a engine mount? Is it a solid rubber mount? Use a solid rubber mount on the cross member with stock OEM for the side, it will give your axle a fighting chance for hard driving.
Soooo did they lasted a long time or not at all?
You are exaggerating. There are many people (myself included) don't have a problem with aftermarket axles, at a fraction of the cost. You are either unlucky or picked a garbage brand (such as Cardone). That rubber damper? don't be too excited about that. It's a leading cause of rotting your axle in half. Just google it you will know.
Lol stock axels drive shaft shop ftw
Ariel.. so you recommend going local and having them rebuild??? I am confused on the best way for a 96 accord. Too many issues on new ones like this dude had.. . Where do you recommend ??
@@memopadilla5931 look i run drive shaft shop axels on my race car honda they withstand 1200 hp all day ......if i where u i would just go to the dealer and get oem ones
I wish I've seen your video before buying some cheap aftermarkt parts for mine 07 Accord. Front upper sway bars and two shock absorber. I'm upset after the money lost
Best way to go is REBUILD YOUR ORIGINAL AXLES.... remove them..take the boots off..take the spider bearing off...take the CV joint off... remove the 6 balls and cage from the CV joint...clean everything immaculate with gasoline..and only then take them to a local CV axle rebuilder and tell them to go up 1 step on the balls in the joint and cage and also go up one step on the spider bearings and cup ....don't grease anything...no boots...just do the work ...then go pick them up and check there work..it will no doubt be perfect as they do 100's every month and there's no way to cut corners as you will pick up with no grease no boots...this will cost about 150 bucks...75 each axle...then when you go to pick them up and you inspect them tell them you change your mind and you want them to boot/grease them too...that's another 100 buck 50 each axle ..for 250 bucks you got a set that will last you many years
Nice vids man, I just wanted to ask you something. At about 2:20 when you jacked up one side of the vehicle and turned the wheel to show it would turn you said there was play from the CV axle. Is that the true cause? It seems the play would be from inside the differential instead, correct me if I am wrong. My 8th gen does the same thing and always wondered why.
Cool gum dispenser at 1:40
Have these axles failed you yet?
I'm getting a clicking noise on my 08 accord when I move my steering wheel back and forth, however when you start the car it goes away. Do you think this is the axles?
Better make sure it's not tie rods or ball joints too. Any of them can cause big problems if they come loose including the CV if it gets hung on something though but the other two you're really looking for a big time accident. Be a good idea to have everything in the front including wheel bearings checked out.
It might be getting ready to break in half on drivers side where absorber is that's what my 07 did just fixed it
The typical you get what you pay for. What about good used?
4 sets in one year?? Damn man what were you doing? 😂
Cheap axles with driving like a lunatic 😂
2:20. You get that amount of play in any vehicle's drivetrain. A little in the axle splines, plus a little in the differential gears, then the gears in the transmission have a little backlash, and then your clutch spline will have some as well, plus perhaps a small amount in the clutch disc springs. Add all that up, and you're going to get about that much in any car. An automatic transmission with the parking pawl closer to the final drive may have a bit less.
Lol ain't you the dude who used sandpaper to polish your valves?
I was just thinking that lmao
I Don’t have very many money, so I'm gonna put cheap axles in, while I replace the boot on the OEMs. Fukn Ford, my four Chryslers never tore a boot.
Enjoyed your video. 👍
That was the softest NEW axle nut I’ve ever seen
Reman stuff is or should be just as good as new
you didn't try to repacked first before you change?
How do you order from raxles ?
I search for remans from a reputable dealer. I also know when I cannot do the job and have to take the car in.
do i need to drain transmission oil to do this job?
What kinda of car was it
Dude go to a local shatf rebuilt place i have one by my house call the shaft never had issue and people they i know with issues they get free replacements, 4 set in year thats OD 😂🤣😂
You need transmission seal also
when I accelerate I hear a cracking sound and when I release the clutch. it shifts gears and drives perfectly and its mostly on driver side
Sounds like a bearing issue in the trans. Bad CV axles tend to make a clicking sound when you're turninh.
Where did you get your skid plate from
Great video, you did a good job.
The accord is clean, but you need to paint the wheels black or a gold. What’s your wheel setup/specs? I have a 2012 accord and I would like to know, thanks.
They're 18x8+18 up front and 18x8.5+8 in the rear. I will be changing them up come summer time :)
milanmastracci thanks brother, you’re videos are very helpful
Where did you buy this lifetime warranty cv shafts?
Did you still having the axle problem
Bro can you please tell me how much ur wheels turn
The play in the wheel is 100% normal... That is your wheel picking up the slack in the differential as it rotates the opposite direction! What isn't normal is how easily you can wiggle the driveshaft....
Just thought that should be clarified before every single person on the goddam planet thinks they have bad half shafts because someone said check for freeplay by spinning the wheels off the ground.
It's not about who makes it and rocking it back anforce don't show anything and you didn't show us the new part supposedly place in there
2:30 that’s not axle play lol it’s just gear slop. It takes a bit for everything to transfer from the trans to the wheel lol. That’s not because of the axles lol
Correct
What's the cheapest air compressor/tire inflator can I use to bleed breaks?
Cheapest method is the two person pump and crack method. Someone applies pressure to the brake pedal, and another person opens and closes the bleeder screw in time with the 1st person. For a one man system, the cheapest option is a vacuum hand pump kit from Harbor Freight. One-way self bleeding bleeder screws also exist and may be a good option for you. They have a spring loaded check valve inside, so you loosen them up and then just pump the pedal. They let fluid out but no air back in. Afterward, you tighten them down and they are totally sealed. They take the place of the current bleeders that are there now on the car. Of course, you can use the Venturi vacuum bleeder but you need a lot of air flow for that. Even a small pancake compressor won't be enough. The Gucci be-all-end-all is the Motive power bleeder. You could build one yourself too out of a garden spray tank, a few fittings and silicone, tubing, and a brake reservoir cap. You fill it with brake fluid, pump it up to pressurize it, and then just open the bleeders. The fluid squirts out under pressure. You'll get a 100% perfect bleed every time. The vacuum bleeders have a habit of sucking air around the threads of the bleeder screw. Put some silicone grease around the nipple to seal the connection between the vac bleeder nipple and the bleeder screw.
Please take the nissan center cap on those wheels lol
Lol 😂 😂😂 😂
649 for 1 oem Silverado 1500 axle
They don't do American Axles like Ford and Chevy so you should of made your video clearer on that explanation,Dude."
Do you have to do a realignment after swapping the axles?
Scott Vickers only if you have to disassemble any suspension parts to get to the bolts that hold the wheel bearing assembly in place in the knuckle. Some cars require the disconnection of a lower control arm ball joint and the strut to get to those stubborn bolts that come out the back of your wheel bearing assembly. I also recommend doing this because you can knock out the axle a lot easier when there’s free play in the knuckle itself. make sure to purchase a ball joint separator and extra ball joint boots in case you tear anything. Also hand tighten your suspension before torquing to yield. Raise your suspension to the recommended driving height with your floor jack and a rubber pad. Then torque suspension parts to yield. Take the car down to the shop for a alignment and you’re good to go. Good luck
Called drive shafts or I suppose or half shafts not axles
will the car need an alignment after putting the raxles?
No
Have you tried surtrack v axles
Excellent!
no concern to change axle seal?
None.
You’re the best bro
Yes never get the cheapest brand. Re-manufactured OEM is almost always best. If it is a good brand all updates to that part that the OEM has made will be added at the time of re-manufacture. Re-maned and rebuilt are not at all the same!
i want velocity bearing for my car...nessan march 2002 model..
Did the axles give you any issues after 2 years of use?
One of the boots has recently torn, but they have not snapped and do have make any clicking noises
@@milanmastracci dope! I have to replace both of my cv axles because Im having a similar issue, I’m just not sure if the play is due to the axles or transmission. Plus it also makes a nasty clunk during acceleration. Did you stop having that extra play after installing the new axles?
You are the best one can teach other thank you for this video.
You cant beat real Honda parts. They do cost more, but as you saw in the long run the aftermarket fail and you end up replacing it several times over.
Well, I will keep you guys up to date if it works long term or not :)
I agree...I just bought OEM Honda CV Axles for the Oddysey, $220 a piece, not tax, and free shiping! Pepboys installed both sides for $275 plus tax. No more clicking noises nor vibrations from 50-60 mph. God is good!
@@savedby_grace6110Hi, from where did you buy the OEM Honda axle and what year is your Odyssey
Screw driver between calliper and brac disc!!!! Under calliper and between bout discs.
Not when they're painted and look pretty. If they're unpainted / standard calipers, yes that will work.
@@milanmastracci tape do the job