I have a B&K 1470 in working order you can have for only freight. Only 10 meg, but a big round green crt and goes 20 volts / division. Good for power amps etc. No trace rotation control on this model so you have to physically rotate the crt and lock it back down when you install it.
I believe the pattern generator you were talking about with the flying spot setup, transparencies etc. was likely an old B&K Television analyst, either a 1065, 1066, or 1077. I personally own a 1066, but tend to use my more modern Sencore VA-48 more.
Maybe you can use tripler of another form factor and just tack it in. Finding the exact replacement is no fun. Tripler from a TV will handle this voltages just fine.
I have one, but shipping to you would be a bear. its a Phillips/Fluke PM3335 which can run in analog mode as well as digital mode with calculation cursors. CRT based. I ended up getting it ironically, from canada several years ago as failed surplus. Recapped all the dried out axial caps, and she roared back to life Been working ever since, until I got a Fluke scopemeter, so I dont use it anymore. It does have 1 issue, I took the power button off and used a "screw" so I can pull it back out because the power button wouldnt stay in, So I removed the spring and used that. Its a rig, but it worked. Edit: Whoops its a PM3335 not a 100. Dont know where I came up with 100. maybe 100MHz.
The thing is I can only fix simple things like a 2 channel DJ power amplifier but not those BIG amplifier the smaller ones that are about 4 inches tall but finding the problem is always the tricky part.
My Hitachi 35MHZ scope is about that age and seems fine for now. I also have a Tek 2235 100mhz storage scope so at least i could troubleshoot a dead scope. i also have a Tek 545 that died in the mid 80's, it needs all the caps replaced and that would take FOREVER. the 545 scopes death was the reason I bought the Hitachi, I didn't can it then and now it's just to hevy for me to mess with (it has to be 60 pounds and I'm 72.. You old HP probably needs new rectifier tubes in the HV tripler section, they are solder in sub miniature rectifiers (5642?) . I used to work on Tek scopes when I ran a calibration lab and replacing those tripler rectifier tubes really spruced up the display intensity.
Sorry to bother you, but which video preceded this? You have so very many videos and I only found this one in my suggestions (just a description of what is being repaired should do).
I have an SS-5710 but it just stopped working correctly. The beam doesn't even make a full sweep on the screen before the beam just vanishes and goes away, and nothing brings it back expect turning the power off and on again. Is the picture tube shot or is it fixable?
My Gould pulled a similar trick.. it was a high value resistor in the focus chain had gone high and caused an eht cap to develop a punch through short that was only apparent when the full eht was applied.. this then reduced the overall impedance of the focus network to such an extent that everything ran very hot with no display.. so it might not actually be the tripler.. would at least check out the focus divider chain resistors before scrapping the tripler. in the case of the Gould which uses transformer eht winding it was causing major transformer overheating.. wax escaping and a really bad burning smell .. all the usual stuff.. stunk the place out.. luckily yours uses an rf oscillator so is far safer.. Does it need a tripler?.. microwave diodes should be suitable
when my scope last fail, it was a transistor that fallen out of the socket you think it would be something small, but in my sope case it was a driver transistor for dc-dc converter. And no voltage at any of the outputs :] (i type this at the begining of your video, i am very interested at what was wrong in your scope)
I know this is an older post/vid, but I wanted to ask...had the screen ever been replaced and how do you think it held up for "so much constant on use" in your opinion? I am wanting to resurect an old 223.
Hi 12voltvids The idea of depotting the 12 times multipler is the cheapest way to go with rebuilding it with higher rated components. Their is a company that is called VMI Voltage Multipliers Inc. that make HV Power Supplies for CRT scopes. ( Maybe they could MEK the part and rebuild it for you, they also do repotting, it might be costly? ) The place where we were at had a scope that the HV Multiplier went out and we rebuilt it. The part was very old, that is what happens to old test equipment, you sometimes need to reengineer it, to make it work again. Later Ray Burke
Nelson Matos I do shoot in 60i for most content. I can shoot in 60p as well but the resulting files are twice the size. UA-cam converts the 60i frame to 30p. when I shoot in 4k I am limited to 30p. the camera does 24p and 30p only in 4k. 24 is too slow for anything but film guys get a hard on for it because that is what film used. I say film is dead get over it HFR and HDR is the future.
No, it is isolated by the big transformer on the back of it. Normally the chassis is bonded to ground via a ground prong, but I cut that off so the scope floats, and then use an isolation transformer on all devices under repair, so the device under service is isolated from earth, and mains, and the test equipment is also isolated.
According to the service manual on pg 2-20 the 12-time voltage rectifier (M01) supplies 10.25 kV to the anode of the CRT. Woah. I was thinking like maybe 2-3 kV. That's crazy
That would make sense because the corona I drew from the transformer seemed very low, but at 850 volts that small arc looks about right. Also being that low I should be able to measure the waveform on my other scope with the x10 probes. The other scope is all tubes anyway so overload isn't going to do much to it.
Yeah I don't think I'd be comfortable putting more than 500v or so into the front end on my scope even with X10 probes so I guess there is still some benefits to using tube scopes, downside is they're usually friggin huge and weigh as much as an anvil lol This reminds me that I'd still really like to find a decent VTVM, they're pretty much peanuts on ebay
Yes I want to pick up a VTVM some day too. My scope is rated 600V ac/DC, so with the 10X probe I can go higher than that, however the probe also has a max rating. I'll measure the collector on horizontal output whick had a p-p voltage of about 1000, but I wouldn't measure say the sweep tube plate on a tube set, because the voltage is considerably higher, and would damage the probe.Yes that tube scope is big, and it weigh a ton, andd sounds like a jet engine warming up. It's still cool though. I like tubes. I like tube amplifiers. I have an ole tube ham radio with real transmitting tubes. Want to talk high voltage. How about 2KV on the plates! Now that is serious voltage, and it scares the hell out of me working on it.
Yeah my scope is 400v max on the input and apparently with an x10 probe it could handle ~800v p-p AC at up to 10khz, though I'd never looked at the max ratings online until now. Well that's good to know. My probes are only good for 500v p-p though, I don't usually deal with much HV stuff but I'll learn eventually. Some of that Ham radio stuff has insane voltage too yeah. I'd like to learn more about it but it seems to be a slowly dying hobby and most of the guys are really knowledgeable, old crotchety greybeards lol . I love watching their videos when I can find them
Yes ham radio is slowly dying for sure. There has been some new blood lately, and technology is catching up now. Moving to digital, and internet interfaces which allows world wide communication from a portable. I have had my ticket for over 25 years now, and many of my friends from way back are silent keys now. There are still some very knowledgeable fellas on the air but as you said, many are getting pretty long in the tooth.
And just what would that accomplish when there is a shorted component in the HV multiplier block. Perhaps if it was a bad connection, but will do nothing for a short, and as far a bad connections go, that might reveal that a connection has gone bad but it won't fix it.
So why do manufacturers use a trippler instead of just making a h.v. transformer that can supply the necessary voltage directly??? I have never understood why they make the circuit more complex then it needs to be??
The HV tripler actually makes the circuit far more reliable believe it or not. originally TVs did have a huge flyback that put out the full voltage, however larger transformers need more windings, and for every extra KV off the secondary the more chance there is going to be an arc over in the winding. So putting in a voltage multiplier on the output allows for a much lower output voltage and that voltage is pumped by a series of diodes and capacitors. Not to mention that capacitors and diodes cost less than a big transformer. Tripplers were the first step to the IHVT, which is the transformer and voltage multiplier built in, and they were quite reliable except for a few bad years for RCA and Sony where they almost all failed in the field.
Unfortunately no, they are specific to a design. This is a critical safety component. If the 2nd anode voltage goes too high the tube starts spewing XRays, and that is bad.
StarquestMan my first scope was a heathkit 5mhz single trace. power transformer burned up. the old hp will have to do till I can find another cheap scope.
12voltvids was yours a metal cased unit or one of the blue plastic cased ones? mine is a plastic cased unit from the early to mid 80's but it looks more like a 60s or 70s design. It doesn't even have a trace rotation control, you have to take the darn thing apart and loosen the tube to adjust it only to find that it is crooked once it is back in its case lol
StarquestMan it was metal. the first real kit I built when I was about 11 or 12, used it while I was learning TV and radio. I bought the iwatsu when the heathkit packed it in because by that time heathkit was no more.
i have thought of looking into a rigol scope too for those reasons but im more of a $50 and under kind of guy when buying equipment, besides crt scopes just look so much cooler ;)
Thats a shame as the rest of the scope is good :-( There is however an evil way to make it work, sit an old black&white tv/monitor on the top and ground them together, then steal the eht from it to feed the scope crt anode. Small black&white tvs/monitors need about 10kv, so that would work. I know its nasty, but im a nasty bodger :-D
Or just find a tripler from an old color set from the days before they went to the IHVT. One could be fabricated too, they just use HV ceramic caps and diodes. Wire them together, put them in a plastic tic-tac case and will with epoxy. The trick is knowing what was in the original. Need the component values.
Neon drivers typically put out AC. The voltage needs ti be controlled though, as excessive HV on the 2nd anove is a recipe for X-Rays and I don't need a dose of X-Rays
Ahh i see, so using a diode from a microwave and using a low voltage supply isnt an option, oh well :-(. Im just trying to give you other options and thoughts on how you can make it work untill you get a better method. I do try to help.
i knew i wasn't hearing things.........if the doubler is component level, then replace the components....Test the diodes....if it faded out it blew the component then faded down.i betcha if you test each stage of the doubler you'll find out.
i wonder if the schematic for that scope would have the values of the parts in that module or at least a circuit diagram showing how many capacitors and diodes and how they are wired, then you could either build one on a breadboard or epoxy a new one in something like a tic tac box?
You can likely un-pot the trippler by soaking it in MEK for a few days. When I worked at HP, that's what we used to get into epoxy-potted Marx surge pulser modules for X-rays. You may have to replace all the parts, but you can tell what they are, and how they're connected.
This one is 34 years old, and was ranked right up there with Tek at the time. I was looking at Tek and Leader, and the salesman swung me over to Iwatsu convincing me that the quality was as good as Tek but they were half the price. In the 34 years I owned it it hasn't had a hicup, and when I worked in the business I used to turn it on at 9AM every day and it stayed turned on till 6PM 5 days a week for 20 years. Since leaving the business full time it hasn't seen as much use, but it is still 34 years old which is a pretty good run for any electronic product.
Well that's the difference between us. I turn things on when I need them and off after. The only thing I will leave on is a radio and a lamp if I am in the room. I agree, it may be a good product, but the parts are scarce.
Maybe a TV tippler will work, you can build them I guess, how about strip an bunch of TVs and take damper and capacitors out. String the diodes yourself.
I don't leave things running now because I am paying the power bill. When I worked in the shop though that was a different thing. Remember I was fixing VCRs and TVs all day. On an average day I would repair 10 - 12 units, and VCRs needed alignment 80% of the time, so the scope was being used several times a day. As soon as my bench power was turned on the scope and security camera monitor on my bench would come on and stay on all day.
Quite frightening how you are just tossing the unit around with little regard for HV. I haven't seen anyone using a screwdriver grounded looking for corona to determine if you have HV. There was very little trouble shooting techniques employed. Found the video as not increasing any knowledge on my end and would suggest that some very poor techniques are being shared with newer guys trying to learn.
You have obviously never worked in a repair shop. Drawing corona from fly-backs is very common. That is the way we all did it. For the really high voltage the screw driver wasn't grounded, just bring it close to the cap of the horizontal output tube, or HV rectifier would do it. But this transformer doesn't have that high voltage so a grounded "chicken stick" is the easiest way to determine the presence of HV. How else would you determine if HV was present? You can't measure it with a meter. It would blow the meter up. An HV probe on a VTVM could measure it, but I don't have an old VTVM (Vacuum tube volt meter) with a HV probe. Back in the days of B/W TV and early color sets we all had KV probes to measure the 2nd anode voltage, because it was regulated using a shunt (which was nothing more than an X-Ray tube in a metal can to shield the XRays produced by the shunt regulator) The HV was adjusted before the set was returned as a TV with excessive HV would send X Rays out the front of the set. Those meters measured DC HV though. For the transformer side we are dealing with basically RF, and all we need to know is if the HV is present. That tells us that the transformer is putting out voltage, and is not shorted internally, as if the secondary winding was shorted, there would be no output. So just because you haven't seen a technique used before doesn't mean it is not a good method. Just ask any old school tech how they would determine the presence of HV. They all did it this way, and many would actually arc the second anode lead to the chassis in the old days. That technique I never did because hanging onto a wire with 20 or 30 KV on it and drawing a huge arc to the metal chassis scared the crap out of me, but the guy that trained me did that all the time. That was so common that when solid stare sets started hitting the market there were big warning labels attached warning techs not to do this because the ESD was blowing other parts, but in the tube days that was really common. Used to scare the crap out of me when my old trainer working at his bench (when I was still an apprentice) would arc 2nd anode lead to chassis without warning me first. Talk about dam near jumping out of your skin!
@@12voltvids I've seen warning labels in Samsung TVs from the '90s (so solid state, and MCU controlled), that you CAN check HV presence by arcing the 2nd anode lead to ground, they just warned you to arc it to the secondary ground, not the primary, otherwise you can cause the power transformer isolation to fail. I find it hilarious they suggested such a rude method in a solid state set loaded with static sensitive MOS circuitry.
Not yet. I have been looking but so far no luck. It is more than a trippler, it is a 12x voltage multiplier. I may just replace it with a better scope.
I have a B&K 1470 in working order you can have for only freight. Only 10 meg, but a big round green crt and goes 20 volts / division. Good for power amps etc. No trace rotation control on this model so you have to physically rotate the crt and lock it back down when you install it.
I believe the pattern generator you were talking about with the flying spot setup, transparencies etc. was likely an old B&K Television analyst, either a 1065, 1066, or 1077. I personally own a 1066, but tend to use my more modern Sencore VA-48 more.
Yes I believe you are correct. Been so long since I saw it. Back in 82 or 83. Was at the first shop I worked at while still in high school.
Maybe you can use tripler of another form factor and just tack it in. Finding the exact replacement is no fun. Tripler from a TV will handle this voltages just fine.
That old oscilloscope in operation reminds me of the opening sequence of the 1960's sci-fi thriller "The Outer Limits."
I have one, but shipping to you would be a bear. its a Phillips/Fluke PM3335 which can run in analog mode as well as digital mode with calculation cursors. CRT based. I ended up getting it ironically, from canada several years ago as failed surplus. Recapped all the dried out axial caps, and she roared back to life Been working ever since, until I got a Fluke scopemeter, so I dont use it anymore. It does have 1 issue, I took the power button off and used a "screw" so I can pull it back out because the power button wouldnt stay in, So I removed the spring and used that. Its a rig, but it worked.
Edit: Whoops its a PM3335 not a 100. Dont know where I came up with 100. maybe 100MHz.
The thing is I can only fix simple things like a 2 channel DJ power amplifier but not those BIG amplifier the smaller ones that are about 4 inches tall but finding the problem is always the tricky part.
My Hitachi 35MHZ scope is about that age and seems fine for now. I also have a Tek 2235 100mhz storage scope so at least i could troubleshoot a dead scope. i also have a Tek 545 that died in the mid 80's, it needs all the caps replaced and that would take FOREVER. the 545 scopes death was the reason I bought the Hitachi, I didn't can it then and now it's just to hevy for me to mess with (it has to be 60 pounds and I'm 72..
You old HP probably needs new rectifier tubes in the HV tripler section, they are solder in sub miniature rectifiers (5642?) . I used to work on Tek scopes when I ran a calibration lab and replacing those tripler rectifier tubes really spruced up the display intensity.
Sorry to bother you, but which video preceded this? You have so very many videos and I only found this one in my suggestions (just a description of what is being repaired should do).
good morning my freind so did you find a tripller for your scop
if you did not i have a whay to over came this
I have an SS-5710 but it just stopped working correctly. The beam doesn't even make a full sweep on the screen before the beam just vanishes and goes away, and nothing brings it back expect turning the power off and on again. Is the picture tube shot or is it fixable?
My Gould pulled a similar trick.. it was a high value resistor in the focus chain had gone high and caused an eht cap to develop a punch through short that was only apparent when the full eht was applied.. this then reduced the overall impedance of the focus network to such an extent that everything ran very hot with no display.. so it might not actually be the tripler.. would at least check out the focus divider chain resistors before scrapping the tripler. in the case of the Gould which uses transformer eht winding it was causing major transformer overheating.. wax escaping and a really bad burning smell .. all the usual stuff.. stunk the place out.. luckily yours uses an rf oscillator so is far safer..
Does it need a tripler?.. microwave diodes should be suitable
Hi Dave, Did you ever fix this beast?
when my scope last fail, it was a transistor that fallen out of the socket
you think it would be something small, but in my sope case it was a driver transistor for dc-dc converter. And no voltage at any of the outputs :]
(i type this at the begining of your video, i am very interested at what was wrong in your scope)
Real shame I didn't see this 3-yrs back! I did have a Spare 'scope back then... Cheers, B.
I know this is an older post/vid, but I wanted to ask...had the screen ever been replaced and how do you think it held up for "so much constant on use" in your opinion? I am wanting to resurect an old 223.
No the tube has never been replaced. I bought this scope new and some day I would like to get it going again.
can't you rebuild the trippler? it should be a simple device, couple of microwave oven diodes and some caps
would be fun to see it blow up :]
Hi 12voltvids The idea of depotting the 12 times multipler is the cheapest way to go with rebuilding it with higher rated components. Their is a company that is called VMI Voltage Multipliers Inc. that make HV Power Supplies for CRT scopes. ( Maybe they could MEK the part and rebuild it for you, they also do repotting, it might be costly? ) The place where we were at had a scope that the HV Multiplier went out and we rebuilt it. The part was very old, that is what happens to old test equipment, you sometimes need to reengineer it, to make it work again. Later Ray Burke
You do oscilloscopes? Man, you are good. Those aren't easy.
Some day I want to fix this one. Will have to depot the hv block and rebuild.
@@12voltvids That's a big job. I can't imagine that it would be easy to find a replacement.
will there be part II ?
Might be. I may try to get into the HV block and rebuild it.
Does that camera shoot at 60fps? It would be much smoother image. I love 60 and 50fps vídeos.... lol
Nelson Matos
I do shoot in 60i for most content. I can shoot in 60p as well but the resulting files are twice the size. UA-cam converts the 60i frame to 30p. when I shoot in 4k I am limited to 30p. the camera does 24p and 30p only in 4k. 24 is too slow for anything but film guys get a hard on for it because that is what film used. I say film is dead get over it HFR and HDR is the future.
12voltvids oh I didn't know about that... Thanks for the explanation! Always learning...
What about a Keisei Digital Oscilloscope like the one Dave Jones in Australia Uses.
Do you mean Keysight? That's beyond his budget according to what he has written.
Is this the same oscilloscope that you have used in almost all your repair videos?
Yes. But until I fix it or replace it, the old HP will have to do.
12voltvids thanks for your reply.
Does that scope have a hot chassis like some televisions ?
No, it is isolated by the big transformer on the back of it. Normally the chassis is bonded to ground via a ground prong, but I cut that off so the scope floats, and then use an isolation transformer on all devices under repair, so the device under service is isolated from earth, and mains, and the test equipment is also isolated.
According to the service manual on pg 2-20 the 12-time voltage rectifier (M01) supplies 10.25 kV to the anode of the CRT. Woah. I was thinking like maybe 2-3 kV. That's crazy
That would make sense because the corona I drew from the transformer seemed very low, but at 850 volts that small arc looks about right.
Also being that low I should be able to measure the waveform on my other scope with the x10 probes. The other scope is all tubes anyway so overload isn't going to do much to it.
Yeah I don't think I'd be comfortable putting more than 500v or so into the front end on my scope even with X10 probes so I guess there is still some benefits to using tube scopes, downside is they're usually friggin huge and weigh as much as an anvil lol
This reminds me that I'd still really like to find a decent VTVM, they're pretty much peanuts on ebay
Yes I want to pick up a VTVM some day too.
My scope is rated 600V ac/DC, so with the 10X probe I can go higher than that, however the probe also has a max rating. I'll measure the collector on horizontal output whick had a p-p voltage of about 1000, but I wouldn't measure say the sweep tube plate on a tube set, because the voltage is considerably higher, and would damage the probe.Yes that tube scope is big, and it weigh a ton, andd sounds like a jet engine warming up. It's still cool though. I like tubes. I like tube amplifiers. I have an ole tube ham radio with real transmitting tubes. Want to talk high voltage. How about 2KV on the plates! Now that is serious voltage, and it scares the hell out of me working on it.
Yeah my scope is 400v max on the input and apparently with an x10 probe it could handle ~800v p-p AC at up to 10khz, though I'd never looked at the max ratings online until now. Well that's good to know. My probes are only good for 500v p-p though, I don't usually deal with much HV stuff but I'll learn eventually.
Some of that Ham radio stuff has insane voltage too yeah. I'd like to learn more about it but it seems to be a slowly dying hobby and most of the guys are really knowledgeable, old crotchety greybeards lol . I love watching their videos when I can find them
Yes ham radio is slowly dying for sure. There has been some new blood lately, and technology is catching up now. Moving to digital, and internet interfaces which allows world wide communication from a portable.
I have had my ticket for over 25 years now, and many of my friends from way back are silent keys now. There are still some very knowledgeable fellas on the air but as you said, many are getting pretty long in the tooth.
did you try wacking it sometimes that works
And just what would that accomplish when there is a shorted component in the HV multiplier block. Perhaps if it was a bad connection, but will do nothing for a short, and as far a bad connections go, that might reveal that a connection has gone bad but it won't fix it.
12voltvids always worked on the 30 year old crt I had
So why do manufacturers use a trippler instead of just making a h.v. transformer that can supply the necessary voltage directly???
I have never understood why they make the circuit more complex then it needs to be??
The HV tripler actually makes the circuit far more reliable believe it or not.
originally TVs did have a huge flyback that put out the full voltage, however larger transformers need more windings, and for every extra KV off the secondary the more chance there is going to be an arc over in the winding.
So putting in a voltage multiplier on the output allows for a much lower output voltage and that voltage is pumped by a series of diodes and capacitors. Not to mention that capacitors and diodes cost less than a big transformer.
Tripplers were the first step to the IHVT, which is the transformer and voltage multiplier built in, and they were quite reliable except for a few bad years for RCA and Sony where they almost all failed in the field.
12voltvids I see, very interesting and thank you for the explanation! Could you substitute one of those IHVT's into this scope??
Unfortunately no, they are specific to a design. This is a critical safety component. If the 2nd anode voltage goes too high the tube starts spewing XRays, and that is bad.
That old HP scope makes my poor old 5mhz single trace Heathkit scope look like a horse driven carriage XD
StarquestMan
my first scope was a heathkit 5mhz single trace. power transformer burned up. the old hp will have to do till I can find another cheap scope.
12voltvids was yours a metal cased unit or one of the blue plastic cased ones? mine is a plastic cased unit from the early to mid 80's but it looks more like a 60s or 70s design. It doesn't even have a trace rotation control, you have to take the darn thing apart and loosen the tube to adjust it only to find that it is crooked once it is back in its case lol
StarquestMan
it was metal. the first real kit I built when I was about 11 or 12,
used it while I was learning TV and radio. I bought the iwatsu when the heathkit packed it in because by that time heathkit was no more.
How cheap are we talking? Some of those newer rigol digital scopes are pretty good and take up less room on the desk too.
i have thought of looking into a rigol scope too for those reasons but im more of a $50 and under kind of guy when buying equipment, besides crt scopes just look so much cooler ;)
Thats a shame as the rest of the scope is good :-(
There is however an evil way to make it work, sit an old black&white tv/monitor on the top and ground them together, then steal the eht from it to feed the scope crt anode.
Small black&white tvs/monitors need about 10kv, so that would work.
I know its nasty, but im a nasty bodger :-D
Or just find a tripler from an old color set from the days before they went to the IHVT. One could be fabricated too, they just use HV ceramic caps and diodes. Wire them together, put them in a plastic tic-tac case and will with epoxy. The trick is knowing what was in the original. Need the component values.
Yep its not dead yet, its waiting for a work around transplant.
Do neon driver psus put out a high enough dc voltage?
Neon drivers typically put out AC. The voltage needs ti be controlled though, as excessive HV on the 2nd anove is a recipe for X-Rays and I don't need a dose of X-Rays
Ahh i see, so using a diode from a microwave and using a low voltage supply isnt an option, oh well :-(.
Im just trying to give you other options and thoughts on how you can make it work untill you get a better method.
I do try to help.
i knew i wasn't hearing things.........if the doubler is component level, then replace the components....Test the diodes....if it faded out it blew the component then faded down.i betcha if you test each stage of the doubler you'll find out.
Amy Marie
it is a sealed unit. all that is in there is capacitors and diodes but the unit is potted.
i wonder if the schematic for that scope would have the values of the parts in that module or at least a circuit diagram showing how many capacitors and diodes and how they are wired, then you could either build one on a breadboard or epoxy a new one in something like a tic tac box?
saw pdf service manual online
Service Manual for SS-5702A, 5703A, 5705A and 5706A if you haven't found it. www.radiopistoia.com/pdf/iwatsu.pdf
You can likely un-pot the trippler by soaking it in MEK for a few days. When I worked at HP, that's what we used to get into epoxy-potted Marx surge pulser modules for X-rays. You may have to replace all the parts, but you can tell what they are, and how they're connected.
I know how it is to lose a friend
Iwatsu the only scope that is better then Tektronix.
NOTHING is better than a Tektronix
Check EBAY, you should find a working 100 mhz Tektronix at a reasonable price.
Tektronix makes the best scopes.
I agree! And cheaper if you dont need the bandwidth....paid less the $20 shipped I believe for my 20MHz! ~Jack, VEG
Would be grateful for subtitles to be put on this video..!
Should have bought a Tektronix. I have a Philips. These are rare units.
This one is 34 years old, and was ranked right up there with Tek at the time. I was looking at Tek and Leader, and the salesman swung me over to Iwatsu convincing me that the quality was as good as Tek but they were half the price.
In the 34 years I owned it it hasn't had a hicup, and when I worked in the business I used to turn it on at 9AM every day and it stayed turned on till 6PM 5 days a week for 20 years. Since leaving the business full time it hasn't seen as much use, but it is still 34 years old which is a pretty good run for any electronic product.
Well that's the difference between us. I turn things on when I need them and off after. The only thing I will leave on is a radio and a lamp if I am in the room. I agree, it may be a good product, but the parts are scarce.
Maybe a TV tippler will work, you can build them I guess, how about strip an bunch of TVs and take damper and capacitors out. String the diodes yourself.
I don't leave things running now because I am paying the power bill.
When I worked in the shop though that was a different thing. Remember I was fixing VCRs and TVs all day. On an average day I would repair 10 - 12 units, and VCRs needed alignment 80% of the time, so the scope was being used several times a day. As soon as my bench power was turned on the scope and security camera monitor on my bench would come on and stay on all day.
Wow, well your scope owes you nothing, is it a doubler, trippler or what? How much HV does a scope need? Is it the second anode voltage?
Quite frightening how you are just tossing the unit around with little regard for HV. I haven't seen anyone using a screwdriver grounded looking for corona to determine if you have HV. There was very little trouble shooting techniques employed. Found the video as not increasing any knowledge on my end and would suggest that some very poor techniques are being shared with newer guys trying to learn.
You have obviously never worked in a repair shop. Drawing corona from fly-backs is very common. That is the way we all did it. For the really high voltage the screw driver wasn't grounded, just bring it close to the cap of the horizontal output tube, or HV rectifier would do it. But this transformer doesn't have that high voltage so a grounded "chicken stick" is the easiest way to determine the presence of HV. How else would you determine if HV was present? You can't measure it with a meter. It would blow the meter up. An HV probe on a VTVM could measure it, but I don't have an old VTVM (Vacuum tube volt meter) with a HV probe. Back in the days of B/W TV and early color sets we all had KV probes to measure the 2nd anode voltage, because it was regulated using a shunt (which was nothing more than an X-Ray tube in a metal can to shield the XRays produced by the shunt regulator) The HV was adjusted before the set was returned as a TV with excessive HV would send X Rays out the front of the set. Those meters measured DC HV though. For the transformer side we are dealing with basically RF, and all we need to know is if the HV is present. That tells us that the transformer is putting out voltage, and is not shorted internally, as if the secondary winding was shorted, there would be no output. So just because you haven't seen a technique used before doesn't mean it is not a good method. Just ask any old school tech how they would determine the presence of HV. They all did it this way, and many would actually arc the second anode lead to the chassis in the old days. That technique I never did because hanging onto a wire with 20 or 30 KV on it and drawing a huge arc to the metal chassis scared the crap out of me, but the guy that trained me did that all the time. That was so common that when solid stare sets started hitting the market there were big warning labels attached warning techs not to do this because the ESD was blowing other parts, but in the tube days that was really common. Used to scare the crap out of me when my old trainer working at his bench (when I was still an apprentice) would arc 2nd anode lead to chassis without warning me first. Talk about dam near jumping out of your skin!
@@12voltvids I've seen warning labels in Samsung TVs from the '90s (so solid state, and MCU controlled), that you CAN check HV presence by arcing the 2nd anode lead to ground, they just warned you to arc it to the secondary ground, not the primary, otherwise you can cause the power transformer isolation to fail. I find it hilarious they suggested such a rude method in a solid state set loaded with static sensitive MOS circuitry.
good morning my freind so did you find a tripller for your scop
if you did not i have a whay to over came this
Not yet. I have been looking but so far no luck. It is more than a trippler, it is a 12x voltage multiplier.
I may just replace it with a better scope.