How To Add A New Light To An Existing Circuit | Basement, Attic, Or Crawlspace
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- Опубліковано 21 жов 2021
- Most Popular Wago 221 Kit: amzn.to/3oMn2NP
Having a little extra light can make a world of difference in your basement or attic. Adding a new light fixture to an existing circuit is a very approachable project for most DIYers comfortable with electrical work.
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This is JUST the video I was looking for. Simply explained from start to finish as well as talking about wiring codes too. Thanks a ton for your work!!
Love these vids!
Agreed. The perfect level of detail and safety for a DIYer like myself.
One thing is actually important, and even a lot of professionals do not know, but when drilling through a joist, one needs to drill dead center, if you drill above that, you are removing bearing strength, if you drill below that, you are removing tensile strength from the joist. My father was a construction engineer, and he let me in on that. Boards should have that printed on them. "Drill, dead center only". Almost everywhere I go, they miss that.
yeah whatever
@@mochissin84m84 yeah no... it is important to keep the integrity of the joists. Not sure I 100% agree with David's guidance on dead center but this is an important point that electricians and plumbers totally ignore. See Paul Buehler's guidance below for the 1/3 rule.
Yeah and if they don’t? The whole board going to fail? Nope.
Excellent point. For any simply supported beam, you should only drill through the centre depth of the beam.
@@ROMA--AETERNA damn my I wished I read this a hr ago my house collapsed
The information on "how to" is always useful and so much appreciated! Thank you!
Thanks for sharing your skills. Just did this in an unfinished portion of my basement, been wanting to do it for 15 years. I watched your video and was able to make it happen.
Nice! 👍
Thank you so much! This exactly what I am planning to do in my garage, so that I can use the same 3-bulb light fixture that you showed here. So perfect timing, and thanks for sharing!
Best of luck on the project!
Same.
Been waiting a year for my electrician to show up for this, SO glad you made this video.
Always fun watching your videos very basic and simple to follow especially for us DIYers💪💪
This video is a huge help, especially the 2-to-1 connector at the first lamp.
Great video, you take your time to explain each step which is great for first timers like me, I'm learning a lot from you Sir! Thank you!
Thank you for the knowledge you are passing on. Very simple and easy to understand. Thank you greetings from Arizona. Have a great day.
Hey Armando, thanks for the kind words.
Really useful video. The hands-on work explains what we see in our 60 year old house! Thanks!
Excellent video. This is exactly what I was looking for to add an additional light in my storage room that has a dark area. It's much appreciated. Keep up the good work!
new codes dont allow exposed bulb fixtures especially pullchains and keyless or outlets that are on keyless lamps all bulbs must now be covered enclosed with glass or shield the shields that you can reach over or through are not even allowed all bulbs must be fully enclosed
@@davidicousgregorian does that mean I have change out my attic pull chain light? My house was built in the late 90s
So a beautiful work and I really like the wire connectors you used. God bless all good people.
Thanks for your great video! It was able to wire a new light into my crawlspace ! So much more light now ! Thanks 🙏🏻.
EXACTLY the video I was looking for. Thank you
Great video. I think this will have helped a lot of people. I would like to have seen the Wago connectors a little better though. But, I think I got the gist of how you wired it. Thank you for taking the time.
This is a very good show and we love it !!!
apparently you can scratch what I was asking below as I just started watching your video on your mistakes that have been pointed out where you say indeed it is incorrect to connect 14 gauge to 12 gauge-Bravo to you sir! Thanks again for what you are doing!
One little code problem here. Assuming this was a 20 amp circuit, as the 12-2 yellow Romex would indicate it is a code violation to extend the line with 14-2. This is true even though the last light would never draw more than 1 amp. The issue is a 15 amp 14-2 wire, should not be protected by a 20 amp breaker. One way this could happen is if someone used a screw in adapter that supported a light and an outlet. Then, conceivably, someone could plug in something drawing over 15 amps and the circuit would be overloaded.
right but now some companies are now stupidly using white sheathing for 12/2 flat and 12/3 rounded to save money and charge same price also if you noticed there is a yellow 12 g on other side of rafter to the left of screen which might be connected in a box on other side but if it is a 14 white then yes it is wrong and hell catch it hopefully maybe its just for example but whoops we see a problem
What if the 12-2 is on a 15 breaker? No problem.
@Brian Dillard till someone sees 12 and puts in a 20 amp. I'd just ran more 12 and spent the 84 cents
@@luvdady maybe the wire is bigger for voltage drop, or maybe that what they had on hand, either way there is no code that says wire can't be larger than breaker ampacity. Also, my response was that it might not be a code violation just because there are two diffrent wire sizes being used
To all of the posters below. Maybe the new wire he added for the second light is an old piece of 12-2 he had sitting around. I have rolls and rolls of white 12-2 that I purchased back when it was cheap.
Thanks. Exactly what I was looking for.....NICE.
thanks for the help, my sound is out on my dell ,your advice was clear,thanks!!
Thank you for making everything clear
Great video, excellent tips. Thank you!
Great video. Thanks. This is just what I needed!
You're welcome!
Your work is great and helpful
Cheers. Much better then going to school to learn this.
Excellent Maestro
Good practical video. Thanks.
Yea it's fine to be worried about anchors/nails/screws, but structurally more important to uese the 1/3s rule (in this case avoid drilling in the lower 1/3 of the member) on load bearing members. Almost every hole (pex and electrical) I see drilled here violates the 1/3 rule. If this is going to be exposed above a work space, surface run it in conduit or MC.
Good job 👍 excellent video thank you very much for the information
Thank you you made that very easy to understand
Very helpful video, thanks very much for this video. Well done
You bet!
Super helpful video! Thanks so much!
You bet!
In addition to the explanation of where to drill the holes in a joist... generally speaking, you want the hole in the center third of the joist. Placing holes in the outer thirds (top or bottom) weakens the joist.
Thank you so much I liked subscribed and even downloaded the video. Great great job.
forget video code doesnt allow bulbed fixtures now they all have to be enclosed bulbs even in basements and gerages and especially closets
Neat work. Well done 👍
Thanks Hassan 👍
Nice makita drill. Just got into that platform from dewalt love it!
Yeah, a few months back I was debating on which platform to go with longterm but decided to still with Makita 👍👍
Thank you so much for this video! Subscribed.
Thanks, welcome to the channel 👍
Very useful information!
Happy to help!
Great video as usual. Instead of hanging the string so your drilled holes are straight and then drawing the lines, I find it easier to just snap a chalk line. It saves a few minutes. Also, can't you put a 2x4 perpendicular to the joists and then staple the Romex to it on the side?
Great video, thanks for posting. I plan to do this for my unfinished detached garage. I currently only have one fixture, so it's dark, and there are a lot of shadows.
🤗 been there, done that the right way…💡 IT WAS A VERY ENLIGHTENING EXPERIENCE AND WELL WORTH THE EFFORT
THANKS SCOTT FOR SHOWING OTHERS HOW TO 👍😍😍😍
THANKS!!! Ended up that since we have a small area I only need the Ontel LED light!!!
Awesome video!!!
Thank you Sir.
The ideal height for that holes is the center of the beam, in this location the bending stresses on beams is cero because is the line where tension and compression force change.
Also in the center between the beam supports because the shear stresses are also cero
Saludos
Gerardo
Absolutely, but although he didn't say it that way, those looked like 2x8's so his 3" mark was almost center. On a 7¼" board he's ⅝" off center.
Thanks for the video.
Great video 👍
thank you, helped me a lot.
Nothing oozes confidence like knowing your freshly installed lamp is working just fine without even checking when you throw the switch.
Very nice!
Thanks!
When I install ceramic light fixtures similar to yours, I always choose a fixture that includes a receptcal. It just gives me one more place to plug in to so it reduces the need for extension cords.
The ones with the strings switches are nice too.
Hi. Always sleeve the bare ground/earth/CPC cables with sleeving to prevent them shorting out on the live parts.
fantastic vid
Good job thanks you.
Good vid!
Excellent and clear video! Thanks. I'm thinking of multiple LED recessed lights hooked to a centered ceiling fan. So do I hook them all up from the fan, into a junction box and into the multiple LEDs in series? Since they only use 13W each, I assume it won't be a real issue in a single line
I love the sound of the speed hammer 😂
Excellent
Thx!
Very COol I appreicyate it.
Judging off the size of that filter and ductwork somebody has been homegrow’n something tasty
When trimming bolts down use electricians wire cutters. Most have at least two sizes to cut off bolts. That way after cutting the bolt down you back it out and that repairs the end.
Good call Greg 👍
How's it repair it
@@AgentOffice A proper wire stripper tool has threaded areas to put long bolt into, the threads hold the bolt while the cutter allows shortening.
I thread a nut on the screw first. That way, I can take off the nut after the cut and it kind of repairs the end of the screw.
Interesting video
Good 👍
One correction for your audience - stapling of the romex must be within 8" of plastic boxes. The 12" reference is valid only if you're using a NM connector. Staple in the field every 4-1/2 feet minimum.
Thanks for the feedback / correction 👍
Maximum distance between staples on a beam in wood construction for toned is 3 feet no more, , 6 inches going into and leaving a hole through the beam and 3 inches from entrance into the box with no connectors
Not toned, it should read romex, spellcheck error
Great video, it helped me plan. Can I use that same principal for a ceiling fan?
Just put one of those led panel style bulbs in my basement laundry area and yeah it's a massive improvement, but it's so bright and harsh you get afterimages if you happen to glance at the light. Needs some kind of diffuser.
More of this please. This was great. I’m teaching myself home electric and plumbing. You are a great resource for me. I didn’t know I couldn’t run the romex under the joists. Is 12/2 better than 14/2? What’s the right and wrong way to install the metal 4” j box? All of these things I’m learning. Thank you again for putting out great content.
12/2 can handle more power then 14/2, most lighting circuits are 14/2 (15 Amps). You have to check your breaker to see what size you need. If the circlet has a 15 Amp breaker you need 14/2 or bigger, if the circuit has a 20 Amp breaker you need 12/2 or bigger.
It is not a matter if 12/2 is better than 14/2, it is as Connor said. The amperage of the breaker determines the minimum AWG of the conductors. With a 15A breaker, the smallest AWG you can use is 14. With 20A, it is 12. And with 30A, it is 10.
There are two cases where Romex can be stapled directly under the joists. The cable has to be either 6/2 or 8/3. If you want to run smaller cables such as 14/2 or 12/2 then those cables have to be installed on running boards. It’s quicker to just drill holes in the joists or run the cables parallel to the joists as shown in the video.
Interesting there is a 2 foot section on one end of my house where a bunch of romex is run side to side under the joists.
Check out the channel "electrician u"
He is an electrician and has covered about everything. Geared towards training apprentice electricians. He often covers the boring stuff (code) which can prevent making safety issues and code violations. For a home-gamer like me it has been an amazing resource.
Great video! Can you show a video on how to install a light switch from a pullchain light switch when two 12/2 wires go into the pullchain fixture?
Good video. I know it's light and they don't have ground but I did the exact same thing in my attic and the junction box had a screw for ground so rather than letting the wire unattached in the box I screwed it in place there.
thats why people need experts to inspect work
For that job I would use WAGO pushing connecters, only!
The real reason for drilling in the center of a floor joist or ceiling joist is because in most cities and townships it is a building code now not to drill or cut any load bearing joist or beam as most of a piece of woods strength is at the top and bottom 2 inches of the board, new construction will fail inspection if the inspector sees the wood cut or drilled in the top and bottom 2 inches, this is especially enforced when inspection of plumbing drain pipe installations, mark VB
I was thinking the same thing. It makes sense what you say. The bottom and upper part of the beam is where the maximum bending stresses occurs. The center of the beam is the neutral axis and the stress is cero.
Great video… question? How many times can you add from one existing light?
I would never mix different sizes wire gauges in a circuit because of the different amp ratings of each wire. Say the yellow 12 gauge “
“Romex” (NM) goes to the electrical panel it should have a 20 amp breaker, but say it has 15 amp and say a year from now the homeowner decides to put in a new electrical panel, the electrician is going to see 12 gauge yellow wire so he is going to automatically put in a 20 amp breaker and that’s then you could be in for a problem having mixed gauges of wire on the same circuit. I would also use an electrician’s bolt cutter pliers so you don’t mangle the threads of the cut bolt, especially if it is going into a metal box or appliance. It would be help to point out on porcelain lamp fixture that the copper color screw is electrically attached to the center of the bulb socket and the silver is connected to the screw side of the bulb socket so you don’t accidentally get shocked if you touch bulb screw thread when changing the bulb, especially on the basement concrete floor.
I liked your explanation. What is ia the rule for having a loose ground wire like he did in the last light fixture box? Just tuck the ground wire back like that is fine? Thanks
@@thatguy9045 Any metal electrical box must be grounded for safety reasons. Since the porcelain/plastic light fixture itself does not provide for a ground connection, simply add a green ground screw (10-32 machine thread) to the pre tapped hole in the back of the electrical box and wrap the 3/4”stripped ground wire around the screw in a clockwise turn and the screw and tighten the screw into the box. Now you have a grounded box in case a hot wire, uninsulated, “short circuit” should touch the metal box you will not get shocked. Hopes this helps.
Thanks dude. My setup is pretty ghetto compared to this. Just needed to know what colored wires go what terminal.
Hi there, I love your videos and one reason is that you always go above and beyond and include what is to code or what is in violation to code. Question: If your original circuit was 12 gauge yellow shouldn't you have used 12 gauge to the new light? (you used 14 gauge and isn't it a violation by connecting it to existing 12 gauge and if not an actual violation at least not best practices?)
Yes it should be 12 gauge always on 20 amp. It's kind of a common fudge to use 14 gauge on lights based on the premise that lights will never draw close to 20 amps. It's not code, because someone could later rewire an outlet in that box or add one of those socket-to-outlet adapters. It's not the biggest risk in the world but could happen.
Scott, you are probably aware of this. For anyone else, on the light switch that EMT conduit should have been longer past the floor joist and should have a blue plastic protector at the end (I forget what there called) so the romex sheathing doesn't tear.
Good callout 👍 thx!
Not to mention at least where I'm from romex is not allowed in conduit.
@@elektro9564 why would romex not be allowed in conduit? 334.15 C in NEC tells you to do this in unfinished basements. And there is nothing saying it's not allowed in conduit anywhere in 334.
Congratulations ,i am electrician in Brazil .
Legal, já estive no Brasil muitas vezes. belo país e pessoas.
What I would like to add more light is to current living space like a living room a room and kitchen and bathroom more like recessed light
I was working on customers house which they told me, when we take a shower, we get a shock or something. Well, I went under house and found bare phone line on pipe which when there was a phone call which is 40amps , they get a shock. Wow, they could of died. I always remember that service. Downey California
Why are you switching from 12-2 to 14-2 @7:58? If this is on a 20 amp circuit, shouldn't it be 12-2 throughout?
Awesome video, how many can you daisy chain off of one wire with these wago connectors?
I was going to say as a noob, I don't know what wire to buy. I don't how many lights I can have on whatever size breaker ect. I think you showed me how to do it if I knew what I was doing with the other questions.
nice video. but before cutting the screw put a nut on then cut the screw when you back off the nut it leans the threads
interestings indeed but what really got me going in this vid is what is with the water pipes in there.. is that really the new standard over copper? i really do not feel comfortable with that what so ever also interesting how mention that yellow wire being cut by something but i think id be more worried hitting that red hot water or blue cold water pipes around all that wiring.., i am waiting for the new sections this house i am in to rupture at any time cause they couldn't of been arsed to redo it in copper. but back to topic at hand, i didnt even know they made new electric boxes that nailed in on the side like that things surely change fast in the electric world.
Just curious if you discussed it in the video (maybe I didn't hear) that by using the 14 gauge off of the 12 you need to ensure it is on a 15A breaker? The circuit can only have a breaker sized for the smallest conductor rating.
Hi Wali, yes and you are right I didn’t call out this point which added confusion with the same circuit having 12/2 and the newly added 14/2. This specific circuit is a 15 Amp so the mixing of 12/2 and 14/2 is not best practice and can leas to confusion but not against code in my area. Check your breaker and if it is a 20 Amp on that circuit definitely pull 12/2. Thx!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Then I would most likely replace the outlet on that 2 gang at the start of the video or run the 12/2 to the light. You can see the home run is in the same box and there is a 20A outlet which at least by 2020 NEC isn't up to code as written 210.21(B3) (Can't have a receptacle with an amperage rating higher than the circuit). I should say I don't think it would ever be a problem, but if someone finishes the ceiling in there it might give them the wrong idea on what's ok to change on a breaker. Love the channel, but just making sure that people don't get into inspection issues if they replicate this exact setup.
I know youtube watchers can be a pedantic bunch, but in a series of crazy bad choices by the next person this could potentially cause themselves an issue.
@@waliw3841 I appreciate your feedback and I think you are right on swapping out that 20 Amp receptacle for a 15 Amp to match the 15 Amp breaker for this circuit. Keep the feedback coming 👍
First thing I noticed.
Thank you for the comments. I watched it again to understand as a beginner. So the white is the 14 gauge wired to the receptacle, which is labeled 660W/250V. And the 12/2 is the new conduit. How did you all know it was likely a 15Amp circuit?
How do you cross across floor joists if there are ducts between them? It's funny worrying about nicking the Romex sheathing but not bulbs
Very good video it was useful but I have a question. Which wire colors are positive and which ones are negative? Which wires you connect to gold screw on fixture and which ones go on the silver screw when connecting them to fixture?
AC(home) is different than DC(electronics). I would recommend watching Electrician U's channel for more in-depth knowledge on working with AC. Everyday Home Repair's videos are more "how to".
-When I was in a class for home electrical, the master was going over amperage and how dangerous it can be. I asked if wearing rubber gloves would do anything. He replied: "Give you a false sense of security."
We all had a sobering laugh.
would be nice to get a close up of the wires.. can the ground copper touch other wires?
If I run multiple light fixtures, let’s say I turn off one by that pull switch, would the other lights still receive power for me to turn it on?
Can you add another lighting run out of the same box using the empty wago connector hole?
Will it be the same wiring procedure when installing 4 light fixtures
Hey guys, is it appropriate to use round or fork connectors from the wires to the gold and silver screws?
Many wire strippers have a dedicated 8-32 and 6-32 bolt cutter that will clean out the threads
That is a better option as it can help to keep the threads undamaged. 👍
after going thru a few videos that only tell u how to install the lamp holder with an existing box, which is a no brainer really, im glad i finally found this video!
couple of questions though, i already have 1 of those garage lights, and it is super bright, but i still want to add more sockets, cuz 1. its better lighting angle, and 2. those garage lights are like 100w, whereas i can have 2 extra sockets, and each socket using like a 8w led, that would be enough, and saves a lot of electricity. anyway, my question is, im trying to extend out from 1 existing socket like you have here, but branching out to 2 new sockets, 1 on each side, imagine a Y shape if u will, so not a daisy chain. in this case, how do i go about the wiring? do i still use the wago 221 lever nuts somehow? or something else? lol...
and also, how do i go about choosing what romex wires to get? u used the 14/2 here, but whats the thought process or reasoning? i dont know anything about electrical work, but am i correct in assuming that 14 is enough because we are not expecting it to handle too much power? if i branch out to both sides using 14/2, can all my 3 sockets theoretically power 1 of those 100w garage lights each? not that i ever would, but just wanna learn
get a qualified electrician that can tell you how to run wires , the gfci codes, max wattage rating allowances ,size wires, staple locations , box heights, water protection codes and limitations dont just guess and be at risk of fire or electrical hazards its worth the money to have an expert guide you for all steps ive seen many diyers fail with simple mistakes that cost lives and more money than it is worth if you dont know all the roads to correct wiring theres more to it than what you can believe
Don't use linesman pliers to cut the screws, your wire strippers have built in screw cutters for 6-32 and 8-32 screws
I just finished doing this exact project, but I ended up wrapping the wago connectors with electrical tape to make sure the levers stayed closed.
Yeah, I know the levers can open up a bit but I think the levers needs to really be pulled open to release the wire. Not that electrical tape is bad on WAGO 221 lever nuts but probably not needed. Thanks for the feedback
Although you didn't verbalize it, I saw you run your fingers on the backside of the joist before drilling. It's a good practice in case there is either Pex or romex/NM running parallel to the surface just out of sight.
Totally agree, around 3:00 I made a quick mention of this best practice.
Great video! Exactly what I was looking for and makes this project look very easy. Looking for a little clarification on how you "pigtailed" the Wago connectors... I don't see any additional wire in the supplies list, so did you use leftover Romex wire to make the connection?
dont use wago use a beige wirenut and pigtail wagos are really only for lengthening wires and if they break then the wires downline will also lose power because the power in side is not permanently twisted together with power out side downline if wago fails
Wagos can be used for this and are code compliant and have replaced wire nuts in most of Europe for decades. For a DIYer that doesn’t do electrical work frequently, twisting multiple pairs of wire can be difficult and Wagos would be the better choice.
@@glasshalffull2930
Those things are nice, but they are expensive too.
@@justgivemethetruth Cost is easily offset by knowing you have a good connection and the reduced frustration of dealing with short wires or awkward locations, etc that you can take care of quickly. I just converted a single gang to a double gang and the existing wires were so short that it would have been almost impossible to use a wire nut. For me, the advantages far outweigh the cost of a 60 cent Wago.
Does the light you’re getting power from have to be a 12-2 Romex or can it be a 14-2?