We have had not issues at all. We even thought about getting a larger motor, but haven’t pulled the trigger on that. We fish out of it every year, no problems!
Blackberry Ridge there is another layer of the coosa board that is added (next video). It actually spans over the seams of the first layer and dramatically increases the strength. One layer of coosa board as shown, heavy epoxy, fiberglass sheet, next coosa layer, epoxy, fiberglass, and finally the piecing back of the original hull material.
Yes and no. There is no way to make one piece that fits perfectly, so you have to cut it somewhere. We opted to tri-cut the first layer and overlap cuts on the second layer. Once the fiberglass and epoxy set and harden, there isn't much difference in the overall strength regardless of where you make the cut.
@@PastoralHomesteadOutdoors I worked at Phillips 66 Petroleum about 35 years ago for Daniels construction. I know the place very well! My wife came from that area, and now lives with me in my home state of Alabama for 32 years! Great wives from Texas! Now, back to my transom, I'll send over a couple of pictures! Thank You!!
Nice job! There also is a product that you remove all the old rotted wood from the top so you do not have to cut the back piece of fiberglass off. You mix it pour it in and it foams up and gets hard as a rock. Did you get the boat from hell to Texas.
lonnie simmonds boat from hell isn’t back yet, New Mexico is locked down and I’m iffy on driving over there from out of state. I’m not sure how we could have removed the wood from the top because of the double fiberglass lip. I will look into for the yellow boat.
I was just wondering. I want to see the start on the other boat. Hopefully this will all end soon. Me I do not agree with all this. I'm a desert storm vet and believe in the constatation. I believe it steps on our rights .
Seacast... It's very expensive. But if you do it right, you will never have to worry about the transom again. It's stronger than any marine plywood. It will not absorb water, and will not rot . It's also lighter than wood. The biggest challenge is cleaning out all the wood in your transom. You must clean out everything! It also has to be clean and completely dry. Once you start pouring it, it will fill every little space and crevice. It will completely fuse with the fiberglass. I can't see why anyone would want to. But once it cures, you will never be able to remove it You can also use the stuff if you are replacing boat stringers.
Crazy it’s been 4 years! No problems with the transom. Dad still fishes out of it. Even thought about getting a bigger motor for it. I know a lot of people don’t like this way of transom repair, but for this size bass boat, it has been great for us!
A few boating forums say to pop the cap off the boat, (yeah, it's a lot of work) to pull out the transom and keep the exterior glass intact. Was the cap too big or heavy to remove for just the two of you? I really wanted to try Coosa board, but I went with marine plywood, sealed with epoxy. I hope it turns out great, thanks for the video!
Ideally, you would remove the top cap first and keep the exterior intact. We didn't want to go through that process and West Systems recommends this method over the pouring in of seacast or another such product. The next boat I'm restoring will be a complete tear-down and we remove the topcap before any glass work. I hope you tune in for that series coming up in June, I will probably need some pointers as I tackle that project!
Since the transom is now 3 pieced would that not degrade its structural integrity? Have you had any issues with flexing or cracking? Genuinely just interested to know thanks :)
No sir. When it’s all put back together with glass, coosa board, and epoxy, it is bonded into one piece. We have had no issues with and dad fishes out of it a lot. It’s as rigid as it was when new, probably a little more. We do wish we would have spent some extra time on the finishing work, but overall very happy with the results. Thank you for the genuine question!!
I would have thought he transom was connected with the stringer system. I can’t believe the only thing holding it is epoxy and the original transom was just fiberglassed .
I too need to repair a transom on a bass boat that I bought thinking it was a little more solid than it was. After watching all 7 videos, I was amazed that the transom structure seems to be attached to a thin layer of fiberglass within the hull. The amount of torque applied to the transom, especially during take off looks like it would tear away..Is that normal?
That guy was one of the first Champion owners I watched on UA-cam years ago! I had lost track of him and I couldn't remember his name, I appreciate you reminding me!
DO NOT REPAIR YOUR TRANSOM FROM THE OUTSIDE , SECONDLY , NEVER CUT YOUR NEW TRANSOM IN MULTIPLE PIECES , ALWAYS FIT IN ONE PIECE , THIS REPAIR IS WEAK AND DANGEROUS 😢
@@peterj3001 nah, it’s fine. It’s been fine for years with a heavier motor on it. I would be happy to take a look at your transom instruction video on how to do it the right way if you’ve got one. Just send me the link. I’ll write this all out again in caps if that makes it easier to understand.
@PastoralHomesteadOutdoors I'm not trying to make myself a UA-cam hero , I'm just sick of repairing crap transom repairs that have been done from the outside and hoping to save some guys from making this same mistake
@@peterj3001 man, if you would have started the conversation that way it would have been a lot more fruitful. The transom fix is fine and has held for years. For the small time guy that doesn’t want to spend 8k on a “correct” fix, this is more than adequate.
@@PastoralHomesteadOutdoors I'm glad yours has worked for you , 95% of guys who watch your video and similar ones will have a go stuff it up badly , engines drop off , transoms fall out , boat sinks , people in the water , just disasters . It's nearly impossible to do a bad job if you do it from the inside , even for an amateur first time glasser 👍
Hands down the most detailed transom repair video that I have seen. Thank you so much. I’m feeling so much more confident now as I enter my repair. 👌🏼
Thanks, man. That means a lot. Hopefully others feel the same way! Let me know how your repair goes!
Pastoral Homestead Outdoors I will for sure. Glad to see we are also fellow believers. :)
Totally agree! thank you so much! I’m trying to save my grandfathers old fishing boat and this video is so helpful! Great work!
Old man’s got it thanks you guys
Best videos by far, thank you
What was the reason for the choice in Epoxy over Polyurethane ? great video by the way
How much hardner as epoxy did you use
I just brought one a guy clam to had fixed it has a 1/4 ply board that's it what do I do
Great video, love seeing you work with your dad. Get him some latex gloves, that stuff is messy.
Seth Atwood we used some gloves in the next step when we were putting on the actual fiberglass sheets, terribly messy stuff!
What fiberglass cloth did you use?
What size coosa board did you use? Thickness wise
I believe it was 3/4in thick and we doubled it up.
How have the repairs been holding up?
We have had not issues at all. We even thought about getting a larger motor, but haven’t pulled the trigger on that. We fish out of it every year, no problems!
It wasn't cinematic but it was informative for me who is DIY my boat too
I was surprised at the three piece transom. I figured those joints/seems would be weak points. Your thoughts?
Blackberry Ridge there is another layer of the coosa board that is added (next video). It actually spans over the seams of the first layer and dramatically increases the strength. One layer of coosa board as shown, heavy epoxy, fiberglass sheet, next coosa layer, epoxy, fiberglass, and finally the piecing back of the original hull material.
Weak! Sorry need it fool side to side..
Very informative thank you
Thank you! New transom project coming soon
Would
it be better to make the middle piece as big as possible?
Yes and no. There is no way to make one piece that fits perfectly, so you have to cut it somewhere. We opted to tri-cut the first layer and overlap cuts on the second layer. Once the fiberglass and epoxy set and harden, there isn't much difference in the overall strength regardless of where you make the cut.
What thickness
thank you for making this video
Glad it was helpful!
How is it holding up?
Man, we fish out of it every week almost. Absolutely no problems. I will be doing another transom this summer!
Here a year later coosa is at 400 a sheet for 3/4
I haven't priced it in a while...That's crazy expensive!
@@PastoralHomesteadOutdoors yea I’m doing a ranger right now my normal supplier was out and I knots had to pay 600
Superb video.
Yall did good bruh.
Thanks my friend!!
You mentioned Texas Panhandle, are you in Amarillo?
Barry Camper Borger/Fritch
@@PastoralHomesteadOutdoors I worked at Phillips 66 Petroleum about 35 years ago for Daniels construction. I know the place very well! My wife came from that area, and now lives with me in my home state of Alabama for 32 years! Great wives from Texas! Now, back to my transom, I'll send over a couple of pictures! Thank You!!
We really like it our here! Send me some pics and let me know how you're coming along!
very informative
Glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for checking us out!
Nice job! There also is a product that you remove all the old rotted wood from the top so you do not have to cut the back piece of fiberglass off. You mix it pour it in and it foams up and gets hard as a rock. Did you get the boat from hell to Texas.
lonnie simmonds boat from hell isn’t back yet, New Mexico is locked down and I’m iffy on driving over there from out of state. I’m not sure how we could have removed the wood from the top because of the double fiberglass lip. I will look into for the yellow boat.
I was just wondering. I want to see the start on the other boat. Hopefully this will all end soon. Me I do not agree with all this. I'm a desert storm vet and believe in the constatation. I believe it steps on our rights .
Lonnie simmonds what is the name of this product?
Seacast... It's very expensive. But if you do it right, you will never have to worry about the transom again.
It's stronger than any marine plywood. It will not absorb water, and will not rot . It's also lighter than wood.
The biggest challenge is cleaning out all the wood in your transom. You must clean out everything! It also has to be clean and completely dry.
Once you start pouring it, it will fill every little space and crevice. It will completely fuse with the fiberglass.
I can't see why anyone would want to. But once it cures, you will never be able to remove it
You can also use the stuff if you are replacing boat stringers.
4 year update?
Crazy it’s been 4 years! No problems with the transom. Dad still fishes out of it. Even thought about getting a bigger motor for it. I know a lot of people don’t like this way of transom repair, but for this size bass boat, it has been great for us!
A few boating forums say to pop the cap off the boat, (yeah, it's a lot of work) to pull out the transom and keep the exterior glass intact. Was the cap too big or heavy to remove for just the two of you? I really wanted to try Coosa board, but I went with marine plywood, sealed with epoxy. I hope it turns out great, thanks for the video!
Ideally, you would remove the top cap first and keep the exterior intact. We didn't want to go through that process and West Systems recommends this method over the pouring in of seacast or another such product. The next boat I'm restoring will be a complete tear-down and we remove the topcap before any glass work. I hope you tune in for that series coming up in June, I will probably need some pointers as I tackle that project!
Since the transom is now 3 pieced would that not degrade its structural integrity? Have you had any issues with flexing or cracking? Genuinely just interested to know thanks :)
No sir. When it’s all put back together with glass, coosa board, and epoxy, it is bonded into one piece. We have had no issues with and dad fishes out of it a lot. It’s as rigid as it was when new, probably a little more. We do wish we would have spent some extra time on the finishing work, but overall very happy with the results. Thank you for the genuine question!!
@@PastoralHomesteadOutdoors watched the other videos looked like it would be real solid
turbskibrz I’ll be sure to keep everyone updated if something goes wrong....so far so good!
I was curious of the same thing. If keeping it as one piece gives it more rigidity.
Looking good!
Thanks! Appreciate you taking the time to comment!
I would have thought he transom was connected with the stringer system. I can’t believe the only thing holding it is epoxy and the original transom was just fiberglassed .
I too need to repair a transom on a bass boat that I bought thinking it was a little more solid than it was. After watching all 7 videos, I was amazed that the transom structure seems to be attached to a thin layer of fiberglass within the hull. The amount of torque applied to the transom, especially during take off looks like it would tear away..Is that normal?
Barry Camper it depends on the transom, but thus one was similar to that. If you will shoot me an email with a picture I’d be glad to take a look.
On the coosa board
Checkout keeping your bass boat alive videos I think by mark hicks !
That guy was one of the first Champion owners I watched on UA-cam years ago! I had lost track of him and I couldn't remember his name, I appreciate you reminding me!
Pastoral Homestead Outdoors no problem. He has some great videos!
drop cloth
Who cares about Wranglerstar, the guy is a complete weirdo. Cheese well and truly slipped off his cracker. Your video was very helpful, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it! I still like Cody, he's always been a bit on the weird side!
It's called an Oscillating tool.
Snowing in Texas...??? Oh bro, tell me it ain't so...!
It has been crazy...and today we are back to 70 and sunny!
I suggest anyone doing fiberglass work use gloves. The resin and especially solvents are not good for your health.
I agree 100%. Us rednecks don't always worry about the safety side of things...lesson learned!
DO NOT REPAIR YOUR TRANSOM FROM THE OUTSIDE , SECONDLY , NEVER CUT YOUR NEW TRANSOM IN MULTIPLE PIECES , ALWAYS FIT IN ONE PIECE , THIS REPAIR IS WEAK AND DANGEROUS 😢
@@peterj3001 nah, it’s fine. It’s been fine for years with a heavier motor on it. I would be happy to take a look at your transom instruction video on how to do it the right way if you’ve got one. Just send me the link. I’ll write this all out again in caps if that makes it easier to understand.
@PastoralHomesteadOutdoors I'm not trying to make myself a UA-cam hero , I'm just sick of repairing crap transom repairs that have been done from the outside and hoping to save some guys from making this same mistake
@@peterj3001 man, if you would have started the conversation that way it would have been a lot more fruitful. The transom fix is fine and has held for years. For the small time guy that doesn’t want to spend 8k on a “correct” fix, this is more than adequate.
@@PastoralHomesteadOutdoors I'm glad yours has worked for you , 95% of guys who watch your video and similar ones will have a go stuff it up badly , engines drop off , transoms fall out , boat sinks , people in the water , just disasters . It's nearly impossible to do a bad job if you do it from the inside , even for an amateur first time glasser 👍