I like to use toner printer on projector film used for dry erase pens. Dab dammar oil on the metal let sit for about a minute then lay the printed image and it transfers every bit of ink onto the piece.
Since you are doing this series of tips and tricks for beginners. I think I good idea for a video would be material retention. I know that once I started I didn’t really know what to get maybe you could show what you started with and what you upgraded to and so on. Just an idea keep up the good work man.
What do you mean material retention? I'm always down for video ideas. I did have a video planned for what things to get to upgrade your engraving set up piece by piece.
@@jwsahm6703 for material retention I meant ways to secure your material or projects such as bench vises, ball vises, bench mates. Sorry should have been more specific.
I cover this in my beginning hammer and chisel tools video, among other helpful info. Check it out if you're wanting to give hammer chisel engraving a try!
@@jwsahm6703 this is a truth. I did it the same way in my chandelier. I'm transferring images to media but I'm using thiner and I happen to be learning to carve metal too any suggestions for hands push engraving. tools and chisel selection may be a better purchase link, thank you
this is a truth. I did it the same way in my chandelier. I'm transferring images to media but I'm using thiner and I happen to be learning to carve metal too any suggestions for hands push engraving. tools and chisel selection may be a better purchase link, thank you
Rats. Nice vid. But not what I am looking for. 50 years ago nobody had a laser printer... On a quest to find out how they did it then, the good old-fashioned way.
there are several "good old-old fashioned ways" without laser printer, having the talent and patients to draw it onto the piece is one of the most basic truest and oldest forms.. other means are transfer from a pre-cut practice pieces or templates, carbon the surface with a soot lantern and transfer with tape or apply and lift wax out of the cuts with tape or a paper surface and transfer that to your prepped surface (cleaned, and a lacquer or varnish that has partially tacked over, there are other product as well, engravers white, Chinese white, ect.. ) ink a pre-cut template and wipe the excess ink away with paper and then lift the remaining ink away using it similar to the above for application.. there are methods of using glass as a reflective light box to copy other art or real life dioramas. many of these methods don't result in perfect transfers and some (the carbon lift with tape I can speak for personally) can give BETTER detail than the laser printer but at lower levels of skill are more time consuming in the template making process than drawing a template for printing. .. I think most ways of "transfer" are for those of us that haven't spent out lives learning the art of engraving and or those looking to do repeated jobs and or those trying to make modern tech aid in making the job easier for greater detail (via scaling...), simply put if you were going to do the job once and do it right, draw it on the surface then cut.
I like to use toner printer on projector film used for dry erase pens. Dab dammar oil on the metal let sit for about a minute then lay the printed image and it transfers every bit of ink onto the piece.
Thank u for sharing this useful video,greetings from Australia
Since you are doing this series of tips and tricks for beginners. I think I good idea for a video would be material retention. I know that once I started I didn’t really know what to get maybe you could show what you started with and what you upgraded to and so on. Just an idea keep up the good work man.
What do you mean material retention? I'm always down for video ideas. I did have a video planned for what things to get to upgrade your engraving set up piece by piece.
@@jwsahm6703 for material retention I meant ways to secure your material or projects such as bench vises, ball vises, bench mates. Sorry should have been more specific.
Whats another way to transfer to metal besides using a lazer printer, im not buying a lazer printer on top of my inkjet just to rasnfer images.
On glass?
For like hammer and chisel engraving what's a good chisel to get?
I cover this in my beginning hammer and chisel tools video, among other helpful info. Check it out if you're wanting to give hammer chisel engraving a try!
How can one contact you for questions, social media, email, etc
Do the same thing but instead of acetone heat it with an iron. It'll transfer it perfectly
Hi. Could you please tell me the name of the metal you used in the video. thanks.
Low carbon steel, specifically called A36 steel. Good for practice plates!
@@jwsahm6703
thanks man. you are the best.
@@jwsahm6703 this is a truth. I did it the same way in my chandelier. I'm transferring images to media but I'm using thiner and I happen to be learning to carve metal too any suggestions for hands push engraving. tools and chisel selection may be a better purchase link, thank you
Use a hair spray before u attach your image,it helps alot
this is a truth. I did it the same way in my chandelier. I'm transferring images to media but I'm using thiner and I happen to be learning to carve metal too any suggestions for hands push engraving. tools and chisel selection may be a better purchase link, thank you
Rats. Nice vid. But not what I am looking for. 50 years ago nobody had a laser printer... On a quest to find out how they did it then, the good old-fashioned way.
there are several "good old-old fashioned ways" without laser printer, having the talent and patients to draw it onto the piece is one of the most basic truest and oldest forms.. other means are transfer from a pre-cut practice pieces or templates, carbon the surface with a soot lantern and transfer with tape or apply and lift wax out of the cuts with tape or a paper surface and transfer that to your prepped surface (cleaned, and a lacquer or varnish that has partially tacked over, there are other product as well, engravers white, Chinese white, ect.. ) ink a pre-cut template and wipe the excess ink away with paper and then lift the remaining ink away using it similar to the above for application.. there are methods of using glass as a reflective light box to copy other art or real life dioramas. many of these methods don't result in perfect transfers and some (the carbon lift with tape I can speak for personally) can give BETTER detail than the laser printer but at lower levels of skill are more time consuming in the template making process than drawing a template for printing. .. I think most ways of "transfer" are for those of us that haven't spent out lives learning the art of engraving and or those looking to do repeated jobs and or those trying to make modern tech aid in making the job easier for greater detail (via scaling...), simply put if you were going to do the job once and do it right, draw it on the surface then cut.