Attempting to Make a Grand Pannier
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2024
- The adventures of following a simplicity pattern in pursuit of hips twice the with of my shoulders, which were all the rage in the 1700s! I'm not sure how informative this video is, but I hope it's enjoyable!
Blog Post about this project: doxiequeen1.wo...
After trying this pannier on my feelings on the silhouette have changed a little bit, butttt I think that has more with the fact that i'm tall, so the shape isn't as exaggerated as I would like.
Things Mentioned:
Pattern is Simplicity EA363501: www.simplicity....
note: I was sent this pattern but wasn't encouraged to feature or mention it in a video.
The fabric is a broadcloth from Jo-anns
Twill Tape: corsetmaking.co...
Ribbon: www.onlinefabr...
Boning: corsetmaking.co...
Flat Felled Seam Tutorial (the right way!): so-sew-easy.com...
American Duchess Pannier: americanduchess...
Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh (I have a review here doxiequeen1.wo...)
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If you are interested in seeing more of my work or contacting me, I'll leave links to my various sites below!
Tumblr: / doxiequeen1
Blog: doxiequeen1.wo...
Instagram: / angelacostumery
Portfolio: angelaclayton.c...
Email: AngelaCostumery@gmail.com [serious inquires only please!]
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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:
Video: • Frequently Asked Quest...
Page: doxiequeen1.tum...
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You are such an inspiration
This is so random but I just realized you have a shark iron. I've been using my grandmas 10 year old iron that is the cheapest, crappiest iron in existence. I have to move it every 30 seconds or it turns off! My mom just bought me an awesome shark iron from a garage sale for 5 BUCKS! I'm so excited about it, I haven't been able to afford a nice iron and now I have an almost brand new one! It's probably only been used once or twice. I don't think anyone will read this or care but I have no friends to tell and I wanted to tell someone 😂
Congrats you have a new iron.. hope things go well with you
I know it been months since you posted this comment but I love garage sales and have found some great notions/fabric at a fraction of the original cost. I bought a wonderful Montgomery Ward sewing machine that sews thru just about anything for $5 ! I have found jars of beautiful buttons ,yards of lace and scissors as well. That was an awesome find by your Mom! Happy Sewing!
That is great! Having a good steam iron makes pressing much easier, and garments and quilts just turn out better when properly pressed. Sewing is an activity that gets better as you age!
Great review of a Shark iron. Im on the market for a good iron so thanks!
Get one twenty years old! Lmao, I stole mine from my dad when I moved out, they bought it not long after I was born and it’s still kicking with no problems but not auto-steaming anymore.
It's nice to see someone doing a video on these, first time I made one you tube didn't exist, so I had to use books like Norah Waugh's to get the details right. I would definitely use 1/2 inch boning though, when you get a petticoat and gown on top the hoop may not support that weight. You might even want to beef up the hem bone with a double thickness of boning. The idea of no hem bone is to prevent the dress from showing the lowest bone as a ridge around your skirt, because it doesn't reach the ground (if it did you would catch your foot in the bottom boning as you walk). You can hide that though with a gathered frill sewn just above your hem boning channel, the gathers will soften that edge nicely (looks prettier too!) Well done!
That's my major concern! But the wider boning is only .29" wide, so i'm not sure it would have made a difference. I agree, wider boning is a must...I just wish it still existed. The pannier will eventually be worn with a muslin petticoat that has a ruffle on the bottom, so i'm not too concerned about bones being visible.
Angela Clayton Have you tried online for your boning? in the Uk I use a great company called Vena Cava who ship worldwide but I know there used to be a Canadian based company too if they are still around called Farthingales who I think were very reasonably priced too. I always buy loads more steel than I need coz I always underestimate how much I need!
A cheap cheat boning for hoops is steel pallet strapping, hardware store often get stuff delivered that requires such strapping. Asking will get you some funny looks, but they'll generally give it to you. Otherwise, hoop steel is pretty easily available online these days.
@@stefaninafla What a great tip! I need to make a grand panniers, eventually. I'll see if Hubster can get some steel strapping from deliveries at work!
one thing my grandmother and mother taught me is to cut the notches out instead of in, so that there is no interference with the seam finishing or size adjustment. I have never seen it recommended in a modern pattern, but on vintage patterns it is sometimes implied and in the old 4-H instruction books that is how they do it.
We were taught to cut the notches away from the pattern piece so that it didn't come into your seam allowance like you were saying :)
I've seen people do that before! I don't know why I didn't think of that, but it's a great tip!
I was just watching that part and thinking have I been doing it wrong this whole time.
My first set of panniers- I used aluminium garden wire 😂 it was really thick and hard to shape and I ripped my hands to shreds! Did the job though!
I love the colour 💜💜
I love this video format, equal parts fun and casual and educational!
I am SO GLAD and so THANKFUL I saw this on today of all days. What a lovely distraction!
Man undergarments got so complicated yet oddly beautiful in the 18th century. You did amazing and it looks really nice on you.
I'm so glad to hear other people say Simplicity instructions are confusing, I thought I was losing it! Can't recall the last time I actually followed them.
Haven't used a pattern in years, but I'm pretty sure that with the little triangles on the seam allowance are supposed to be cut outwards, not inwards so they don't take away from the seam allowance but still give you something to line up. Very counter intuitive.
ladycerebellum y
The end result looks very lovely! Hopefully the wire holds up to use. I hate when good products get discontinued! 💔
Btw.. I've noticed some times when you're talking you say "pat-er-rin" instead of "pattern." It makes me smile because I've said "pat-er-rin" most of my life and never met anyone else who did it! Lol I was always teased for it! 😂💖
Garnet is that you? 😢😂
I just wanted to say thank you for making this video, and for basically holding my hand while I was making my own pannier! My family loved all the undergarments I made (chemise, corset, pockets). It's so wonderful to finally have something so grand in my wardrobe! Can't wait to make the whole gown!
Instead of cutting steep notches like the pattern marks, I just cut a little slit where every notch is indicated. It takes a little longer to match them up, but you don't lose any bulk in the seam allowance, and you can cut directly on the edge of the piece of fabric without leaving room for outward notches. That works well for me!
Great tip!
I just use some chalk at the notch points. Or I cut away from the seam allowance instead of into it.
I've done both, but I prefer to use chalk because I usually have to surge off the notch too if I cut away from the seam allowance.
I've done both, but I prefer to use chalk because I usually have to surge off the notch too if I cut away from the seam allowance.
I studied fashion/pattern making in school and this is how we were taught. I do it to this day.
I was taught to cut the little triangles as a triangle sticking outwards where marked rather than cutting inwards as a notch, then you don't have to worry about them being too close to your seam stitching.
I love watching these video while workin on my own costumes. I've made this pattern before and at the time I had no idea where to buy steel boning but I had two hoopskirts from ebay so I just used the boning from one of them for the pannier. Also, the hoopskirts only cost me about $20 dollars and I use the smaller hoop boning in my victorian bustle as well lol. I suggest finding a study six hoop one and it could save you money and it supported my heavy robe a la francias just fine. I jope that this tip saves helps saves someone some money. :)
Hey Angela! I love the new format you used for this video, especially the parts where it shows you in action as you are talking about what you did. This was great since I'm a visual, but more so a kinesthetic, learner, so it really helped me be able to visualize how you completed each step. I also liked that you explained in detail the differences between the hooping wire you used to use and the boning you had to use for this project. Do you have any footage or pictures of you using the hooping wire you used to get? It would be neat to see what it looked like and what it was like to work with it.
I've only just recently started learning about foundation garments and the materials used to make them from watching your videos and now I'm super eager to try making my own! Keep the videos coming, I can't wait to learn more! Thanks for being an amazing inspiration!! :D
-Darla
Bless you, I'm planning on making some of these soon so your tips will definitely be nice to have in the back of my mind. Also, as usual, excellent video!
I do the multiple layers at the same time as well. I'm too busy for cutting. I also deplore cutting. Why can't I just start sewing right away?! Preparation...BAH!
why not hire someone to cut for you so you can just do the sewing part?
prep makes everything soooo much easier.
I'd love to have someone cut for me. However, as I find scissors painful, I either use Fiskars open handle scissors or a rotary cutter. Be sure to out in a new cutting wheel.
Very nicely done! I'd also like to add that your commentary has gotten smoother and more conversational in recent videos, and you seem more comfortable talking into the camera. :)
Your trouble with Simplicity Patterns is one I seem to agree on. Simplicity patterns, even the more detialed and intermediate ones seem as if they are produced for the basic housewife, or hobby seamstress or seamster, as opposed to us that are more serious, and are more garment minded so to speak. I always find my self just using a pattern like that simply as a guide, and kind of going and doing what I feel fit..lol
Love a girl who makes every pattern her own🎀
Simplicity patterns, ironically enough, have very complicated written instructions I've found. They're a big reason I don't sew that much. I can understand by watching and doing, but the way they describe the steps just throw me off so quickly.
I wish I was half as talented as you and could just draft my own patterns, but I don't have an original bone in my body and need the patterns made for me.
It makes me so sad! I look at the pattern and think "This isn't that hard!" and then I read the instructions and it feels impossible - and that's coming from someone with a good amount of sewing experience. I can't imagine how a beginner feels. It's got to be discouraging, which is the exact opposite of how making something should be. :(
And that's why I just study the pictures and try to take things slowly. It can be quite difficult at times, and I do make mistakes, but that's why you always have a seam ripper--and a lot of patience--on hand.
I find simplicity easy. It is the Burda patterns that bother me with unnecessary instructions and almost only written instructions.
I'm glad it isn't just me who hates sewing instructions! I'd love to get a dress form, but I'm still losing weight. I'd hate to get one & then get too small for it.
However, I'm very seriously considering getting a medium & padding it to shape. Then, I could merely adjust the amount of padding to fit.
I'd love to be able to drape things on it!
I've dropped 57 lbs & plan to lose the rest during the Summer.
Thanks for sharing, including frustrstions during the project. I'm planning on making a 1/6 scale version for 11.5" Barbie repaint into Marie Antoinette
My grandmother was a teacher in the early 1900's. She still had some books about sewing from that time - back in the day of the mutton sleeve. No purchased patterns then in her part of the Mid-West. She continued to sew most of her own clothes and gifts for grandchildren into her 80's; but, by the, she was using purchased patterns. I've started sewing my own clothes in 5th grade. My mother was an accomplished seamstress, as was her sister who did custom work and alterations. Patterns aren't that tough to read once you learn the .jargon.
I was taught to to cut the the notches out instead of in, and also if there are more than one in a row, connect them across the top, so it’s like a box instead of having to cut in between them. It still functions the same, with less effort
I hate pattern instructions sometimes. I'm not a professional seamstress, my grandmothers taught me how to sew, so a lot of the sewing terms I have to look up. But then the instructions seem to make no sense and leave out important information sometimes. Luckily not all of the patterns, just some, maybe five to ten percent of patterns that I get. Your outfits are beautiful! Keep up the wonderful work!
have maid a six hooped petticoat with 1/2" steel hooping cost me a bomb and didn't stay round it actually looked more like a pannier but less stable.ended up using some old fiberglass tent rods and held them in with the cross grain ribbon caim out absolutely perfect!!
I love all the humor in your videos.
My usual deal is to buy cheap hoop skirts off ebay and amazon [10-20 dollars] and use the boning from those. Most are steel and while they have sharp edges they give you good amounts of wire.
Thanks for the information about the difference between the ribbon and the biased tape used for boneing.
Your makeup looks really beautiful!
Just a suggestion on cutting notches. When you think you may have to let out a seam you should cut the notches pointing out. If you are sure the pattern is fitting right then you can cut the notches in.
I wouldn't have called this an attempt; since it's surely a success! :)
I've had this pattern for years... I don't have the patience or motivation you have. I enjoyed watching you work through the process, though!
Thank you for this video! I've seen the pattern and wondered if it was worth getting. The end result looks quite good.
For casing try making basis strips of 3 inch wide, then folded, sewing together, then turn inside-out. One you can use the same fashion fabric as the hoop or contrast fabric that will add to the look. True it more work, but the finish look for the hoop can be more fashionable than the dress worn over it.
Great format and cool project.
I am currently selvaging some boning wire from a very large wedding hoops skirt and making it into a half cage crinoline for an 1888 ensemble
I did hear a cheat for boning a corset and that is a metal tape measure, It may work, just be very careful using thick gloves and safety glasses taking the measure apart as it springs out. I've had hands on wearing historical pieces and the 1850s hoops I wore were a metal with like a cloth coating so it may work and save money. Great vid thank you and much needed as I've just cut the pattern out.
This is great,though you missed out the part on the gathering along the top. About time though someone did a video on one of these, just can't find anything on the intenret showing pictures of the insides of these things to see how they stay flat, as steel just wants to spring out into a big round shape. Thank you Angela :)
Hi Angela! I was wondering if you could make a video with all the dresses you made in 2016. It would be nice to see all of them on you in one single video! :)
It would also be nice if you could show us the closet and all the costumes you made so far. keep up the good work, love your videos!
Putting boning in the hem can become Problematic when using stairs. Boning in the hem would run the risk of getting caught up on the stairs and pulling the front of the pannier towards your feet. Without it the fabric can move freely in the back and flow over the steps while the front continued to hang straight down. I would recommend extending a stiff ruffle from the last row of boning to the hem, on the outside of the pannier. that should help fill out the indent of the hem.
your outfit in the intro and wrap up is adorable!
I used the same pattern and had a lot of the same problems. And I added the extra hoop at the bottom as well.
there is a website for Farthingales Corset Making Supplies and they still sell what they call hoop steel, they sell it by the yard and are based out of Canada, but they ship world wide.
It looks like the replacement stuff too, but it's nice that they sell it by the yard, and it appears to be cheaper there!
Asilinnbutterfly Its where I bought mine.
I love the fact of making a cheat way of the French seam :) I am going to use it :)
Karina Villasenor I used French seams & my boning went in fine. Its held for 1 year.
Very cute! I always watch your videos with great pleasure!
I like the parts showing you working on the garment.
you're supposed to clip the notches outwards not inwards.... making little triangles along the edge of the seam allowance not within the seam allowance....
Have you looked into alternate hooping wire than this particular one? Does anyone else make hooping wire like the original one you liked?
Not that I've been able to find! I hope someone starts producing it again. Otherwise I may have to try covering steel with buckram to see if I can get a similar result.
Angela Clayton yeah because home depot has a lot of thin to thick metal strips that they can cut for you to length or you can buy a roll and clip them yourself if you like it
Is it this? Or am I not understanding what you're looking for? hoopwire.com/products/up-to-500-feet-tutu-hooping-skirt-boning
you are amazing. love your work you do. I make my own clothes also. I love colors and fabrics.
You are truly an amazing artist!!
You'll get more out of your patterns if you will trace them out o to a light weight interfacing. Don't cut the paper pattern. Your pattern won't get torn up and you can make all kinds of mods to any pattern.
Ah, the hand pannier. Would love to make one some day, but can't justify it since I really have nowhere to wear a robe de cour.
Where have you been? We miss you! But I'm dying hoping that you are going to do the Yellow Dress animated and live action videos for the new beauty and the beast movie like you did for the cinderella movies! You are my favorite UA-camr!
I love American Duchess. So much talent
I enjoy watching your videos and how you explain things. I would LOVE to see you make a 1940s Christian Dior style dress.
I'm such a big fan of these videos ❤
Update to the hoop boning dilemma, they have the original plastic covered boning back in stock and available!
I love your button rug!
You are very talented and, if you don't mind me saying, very pretty! I sew as well, that is why I have subscribed to your channel.
Ugh! That new boning is too expensive and such crappy quality. I made myself a proper pannier and thought that this white steel boning would suffice but I had to buy TWO rolls of boning just to get a decent amount of support. Hopefully, when I go to the L.A. garment district, I'll be able to find the old type of strong boning. I live like 30 minutes away from downtown L.A. so it's not too much of a trek.
Sounds about right, unfortunately :( I went into a bunch of shops a few months ago in the NYC garment district and none of them had any. But I hope you find some!
I don't have any access to boning in my country so I am thinking about very thin pvc tubes but they are cylindrical instead of flat.Would than be a huge problem?
and the answer to your question would be no not a problem
only make sure the casing is wider for the circumstance of the pipeing !!
Hi I would love to make this grand pannier but I’m in the U.K. and it only sells in the us I was wondering if u could help me if u know any other ways of making it or getting hold of the pattern in the U.K. many thanks
I have two rolls of the old hoop wire squirreled away, and I'm go into hoard any more I can get my hands on. I'm concerned the new stuff will require us to use more boning to achieve the same shape and rigidity. I'm curious how your hoop will perform once you've added all the layers of skirts.
I'm jealous! I definitely agree with you, the new stuff is like comparing ribbon to strips of buckram. It has no where near the same amount of volume and I don't think any amount would give comparable rigidity. However I think it would work fine for smaller skirt supports - like lobster tail bustles, pocket hoops, etc. Just for actual hoop skirts you're out of luck :(
Hi I couldn’t find this pattern and I’m in the U.K. do u have any suggestions many thanks
wasn't there another grand pannier video? I swear she made another one!
Have you heard of Wawak sewing supplies on line. They have a 1/2" boning of over 20 yards for less than 30 dollars. I ordered a few items from them in the past and their prices were decent. And I don't work for them.
It breaks my little heart that they won't ship print on demand patterns outside the USA
I was wondering if you have measurements for the pieces? I'm kinda strapped for cash but I wanna make it for a costume.
Have you thought of using a stiff cording or reed for boning?
how does she do her hair?!? I'm in love with it!
I made a Grand Pannier once and it involved a lot of cursing and frustration up until the point when it was finally done and then it was like " Ooohh. Now I get it"
Bummer that they changed that boning material! Maybe someday a better replacement will come along again ...
Another great tutorial! Did you make your corset as well?
They've discontinued the hooping that has never failed to work??? That is too bad. At this rate, costumiers may find themselves reduced to buying massive numbers of cable ties (I used those once in an Elizabethan corset) and spending many painstaking hours altering each one and then gluing those end to end into hooping AND then adding their own casings. (sighing)
Awesome. 5 stars
This is a great project, looks like alot of work. All of your projects are beautiful and you have a wonderful talent for making beautiful gowns. I am jealous.
Someone needs to look at the cc ( closed captions ) as there are alot of words that arent what you said and there is a F word in there as well.Some of the words are so far off what you said its funny.
Hi can you tell me where to get the grand panniers address
Could you do a tutorial on a 1920's dress or a flapper dress please?
is that the fabric that was too pink? from your january 2017 fabric haul?
The "long, side-edge of the gusset." Correct punctuation would have been so helpful, because, you thought the long-side, edge of the gusset was at the horizontal seam, not the edge referred to in the direction sheet. Illustration was not too helpful either. Reading instruction sheets ... no harm no foul.
could you do a hair tutorial of your hairstyle here please? (did you use a curling iron or hot rollers?) looks great!
Maybe at some point! I used 16 foam rollers and slept with them in.
@@AngelaClaytonCostumery very Hepburn in look. Well done. I need to get some foam rollers. I have lost some natural curl with age & illness, but it holds a curl quite well. Thanks for reminding me.
I just have this big doubt... you can sit wearing that?. I know it sounds silly but i really would like to know how it feels to wear it so i could considerate it instead of a petticoat
Maria Jose Rangel Acuña I know it's super late but these are super easy to sit in. The boning is flexible enough that it simply bends around the seat you're on you do have to perch on the edge a bit, as you do with pretty much all structured skirts. :)
Hi Angela! I'm pretty new to your work, but I absolutely love pretty much all of it! I don't know if you already did one of those, but I'd die to see you finish an 1880s french deepblack mourning dress, or a shimmering Delphos Dress. Or maybe a simple flapper dress in the style of Patou? I'd love to hear from you, and maybe I gave you some ideas.. Best wishes!
Have you tried the hoop wire from hoopwire.com? It sounds like what you describe and is $1.50 a foot.....
Can you use 1/2” reed boning for panniers?
Hi Angela!
I wrote to you on facebook but i think this way is faster.:)
So Im Eszter and I really love your work and creativity. Im from Hungary and I learned fashion and style designer as vocational, but we didnt learn to sew and then I found you so im really happy 😊
but now may I have a technical question?
I watched this video, and ive got an idea that i want to buy a pattern on simplicity,
a printable one, because i dont have time to wait for the shipping
so i just dont understand why should I have to pay for the shipping in this case
i need that pattern for my work but the shipping to hungary is very expensive and I just want to print that pattern soo i dont understand...:D
do you have any idea how can I buy that pattern?:))
I believe the patterns are called "print on demand" because they are printed when ordered, then shipped to you, rather than being regularly stocked or sold in stores. Despite "print" being in the name, it isn't a pattern you print yourself. You get a physical copy of it, shipped to your door, in a box. As far as I know there are no printable pannier patterns, though there are a few other brands that sell physical copies and may have cheaper shipping. Sorry!
Luckily its printable, so I can print to A/4 or A/3 paper size and then fix together the pages. Buut sadly the PrintSew site doesnt working well so I cant download what I buy :/ thats my luck... But really thank you for your quick answer Angela!! ^^ Im waiting for your next video:)
very beautifull !
which model of singer sewing machine do u use?
Hey how much boning would I need for this
Can I ask what kind of wrist braces you use?
I have Thera Gloves. But they aren't really a brace, they are made from a spandex-y material and just offer a bit of support (but it does make a difference)
💖
Please make a Victorian bustle next
Gurl you did good
wait. after watching this for 10 minutes I realized the video said: "ATTEMPTING" and not "HOW TO" make. Wait. Is this a "at least I tried and I try later again" video?! ô_o
so.... since my Marie Antoinette Dress is velvet, i'd rather invest in a good good boning for my Panier, well that's is good to know
Can you use horsehair? It give good structure.
Rosalind Hamilton What part would you use the horsehair on?
On all that your putting the hooping wire in. some horse hair is more structured that others. I guess it depend on what company makes it. Check it out just might work for you. It also comes in different sizes. Also if you cannot find it, double it, that might work also.
You can only use horsehair on the hem only. Definitely not the pannier structure. I built the original, out of print, Simplicity grand pannier with 1/2 steel from Farthingales. It needs the structure of steel bone or the gown will collapse. I added a thin corset steel to my hem for additional support. Horsehair braid could work here for the hem is less floppy.
amo os seus D.A.Y ! você e magica
Halan Santos M.M achei um BR por aqui hahah
Cê cridita? meu Deus um br aqui!
yeaaaaaaaaaass