How to Dress 18th Century: 1750 - 1770 Robe a la Francaise
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 чер 2024
- Have you ever wondered what all goes into dressing in those big, fancy eighteenth-century dresses? What did Marie Antoinette and Madame de Pompadour wear, and what were all the layers of her Rococo dress? In this video Lauren demonstrates getting dressed in a Robe a la Francaise, or sacque, gown, accurate to the period of c. 1750 to 1770.
Robe a la Francaise gowns were popular for almost all of the 18th century, in one form or another. By the mid-18th century, panniers (or pocket hoops) had shrunk in size and width, but were still essential to creating the wide silhouette so popular and iconic in the Georgian period. The Robe a la Francaise continued to feature the beautiful "Watteau" pleats at the back, but by the 1760s featured a waist seam and could be made with or without robings, and with or without a separate stomacher.
About the Costume -
* The gown in this video was made using Simplicity 8578, with a few small adjustments that you can read more about here: bit.ly/3hqFSDd
* The fabric is silk taffeta. Similar silks perfect for 18th century can be found at Fancy Styles Fabric here: fancystylesfabric.com/collect...
* The lace is antique, though not 18th century. Tambour net can be found on Etsy.
* This gown is completely hand sewn using techniques in The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking, which also contains patterns and instructions for the underpetticoat, pocket hoops, tucker, sleeve ruffles, bows, and at attifet (cap): www.american-duchess.com/book...
* The shoes are American Duchess "Pompadours" that have been dyed and decorated. The tutorial for how I decorated them is here: bit.ly/3fY4fIo and the undecorated shoes are for sale here: bit.ly/3fMCrGF
* The jewelry is from Dames a la Mode: www.damesalamode.com/
FAQ Answers -
* Regular steel-headed straight pins are used to pin the stomacher and gown. They are driven into the stays with the boning between the pin and the body, so you will not stab yourself. I have never had pins stab me while wearing a gown nor fall out during the day.
* It takes about 10 - 15 minutes to get dressed, even with lacing the stays. It takes longer to do the hair than to actually put the clothing on.
* The crossed straps on the stays are to hold the shoulders back. This style of shoulder straps appears on several extant stays and is a good method for narrow or sloping shoulders. They're easily adjustable.
* I have dated this video 1750 - 1770 because the style of the gown - particularly the waist seam, width of the panniers, and the separate pinned stomacher - cover that range. In the 1760s, comperes front stomachers became popular - this was a center-front closing (pinning, hooking, or buttoning) stomacher that was stitched to each side of the gown. Comperes front and separate stomacher front coexisted.
* I have styled my hair and headdress for the late 1760s, even though the gown can back-date to the 1750s.
-------------------------------
Get social with us!
Instagram: / americanduchess
Facebook: / americanduchess
Blog: blog.americanduchess
Shop our Website:
www.americanduchess.com
Don't forget to subscribe! ❤
0:00 Introduction
0:09 Start with shift stockings, and shoes My hair is also already styled
0:16 A ribbon and lace choker was popular in the 1760s.
0:41 Next is the underpetticoat
0:54 The underpetticoat provides an additional layer of warmth and padding under the stays.
1:19 Now for the stays
2:14 The boned stomacher helps with pinning the gown later on.
3:16 Panniers, also called pocket hoops, hold the skirt out in the fashionable silhouette
3:27 Panniers came in a variety of shapes and sizes.
3:40 They also served as very capacious pockets!
3:54 Next is the petticoat.
4:09 The petticoat is split at the sides, allowing access to the pocket hoops.
4:16 The petticoat ties on back-to-front, then front-to-back
5:48 This type of gown is called a "sacque" or a "robe a la Francaise."
6:03 It was popular in various incarnations for almost the entire 18th century
7:41 Jewelry is the final addition - Навчання та стиль
" I'll be down in 5 minutes Darling "
lol
“Then I shall wait in the living room, drinking tea.”
@@ennon4880 Not so French... ¬¬
@@pabloconverse6312 Eating macarrons, then. Fixed it.
It only took about 7 minutes anyways lol. It's faster than me getting ready in the morning in modern day qq
How to dress 18th century:
Step one:
Do not be broke
for a gown like this, indeed it would have been far more expensive then that it was for me to buy the fabric and sew nowadays.
@@AmericanDuchess1 Nice work!
I always remember the part in Mol Flanders where she spends her inheritance on the rich looking dress. She declares this is the best investment a woman can make, as she is husband hunting. LOL
@americanduchess where can you buy this stuff? Or do you have to make it all?
@@leafyplaysgames3744 There are Etsy sellers who make these kinds of dresses!
Imagine all the snacks you could fit in those pockets
I use my pocket hoops as snack and water bottle holders during conventions hahaha! They're so practical!
I've put all of my camera equipment in my pocket hoops before, lol
It’s a Minecraft chest but in a fashionable form 😂
Or a bottle of wine🤔
Finger sandwiches and cocktail wieners _for days!_
Also, never realized how much of these outfits are actually pinned together in places
yup! it's surprisingly to us in modern day
Pinned, tied, tucked!!
And then not to forget take it all off
Reminds me of Abigail's request for pins in the musical 1776.
I suppose they didn’t have press studs... they would’ve been handy!
"Haha let's make the Halloween party vintage themed!"
Me getting ready:
I may have been accused of being overdressed at a Halloween party once... ;-) ;-)
@@AmericanDuchess1 No such thing
This is what Belles dress should have looked like in the live action movie :(
perhaps!
There is also a yellow Worth gown that has Belle vibes. Even though it isn't the right time period I would have accepted it.
But the corsets and stays are eeeviiil! 😉
@@anaterka231 lol! I personally like them because I have a bad back and it helps me keep straight. Smaller waist is merely a perk.
Yes!! Or similar.
It just shows how wrong all those so-called historical films are - where the heroine falls into bed with her dashing male lover and all of a sudden she is half-naked... you'd need an appointment just to get to second base!! Beautiful dress and really informative too.
IKR! Imagine trying to get all those pins out in a hurry! 😂 ouch!!
Well, yes but she's also not wearing anything else against her skin but a chemise and stockings. So up with the skirt and there you are.
even worse,
1. those corset scenes where a girl holds onto a bed post and flinches as she gets tight-laced despite that not being common
2. girl gets undressed, is sexily in corset with no chemise or underlayer to protect her skin, ouch!
@@bygonestales2171 : The « corset scenes » are real, but a century later. Starting approx mid 19th century to WW1. After the war, corsets were progressively discarded.
@@bygonestales2171 they both happened in bridgerton 🤠
Thank you for explaining the pins! Everybody just acts like we should automatically know how and where they pin, and now the mystery is solved!
Yay! I'm glad it was clear in this video. I had several requests to show it closer up, so I'm glad it was visible this time.
Chlotes is code for body human. If chlotes is going to be pieces and you wear these piece by piece, so is it meaning that piwce of your chlotes is wear piece by piece?
Code :turn to the back full. So do you think,that you already guessing me will explain that all without people asking?
I had no idea the gowns of this era were basically acting like fancy long jackets. It’s so clever
yup!
The moment you realize the first stage undergarment is your regular fashion nowadays
yes! Outlander used this concept to very good effect when Claire pops through time wearing her simple white 1940s dress, mistaken for her underwear in the 1740s!
And even that would be abbreviated.
These days women go out in their underwear. Teenagers go out wearing a short skirt and ordinary bra. Also it seems hip to go to K-mart and buy a nightie to wear for an evening out. To them, it's the best evening wear they have ever seen. OMG!
I saw a woman recently go out in a girdle. She must think they are shorts! I think females need to be taught these days about the difference from outer wear to under wear, and bedroom wear. They seem not to know. They look ridiculous, stupid actually. No-one is teaching them how to properly attire themselves.
@@johanna5688 Let women wear what they want to wear, it is none of your business how much a woman decides to show of her body.
@@AmericanDuchess1 omg I love that part!
Panniers were pockets? Mind blown! Why have I been carrying a backpack all these years when I could pop everything in my skirt. There's loads of room in there!
they could be, yes! Not all of them were made as pockets, but in that case you'd wear separate tie-on pockets beneath, still accessible through the pocket slits in the petticoat and gown.
American Duchess thank you very much for video! Beautiful Dress and so interesting to see how it was to wearing it
@@AmericanDuchess1 Now I just need to see a 17th c costumer wear that while sitting in a standard school deskchair.
Separate pockets were used and were usually heavily embroidered. I'm not saying that they are wrong, it is the first time I've heard them referenced as such.
Yes Rosie. But how would you get in onto buses? Or even cars?
That was amazing! I had no idea they pinned the gown on. I thought it was an entire dress that they just got in to after all of the undergarments.
glad it was helpful!
Same here. It's bcz since when in our life time does anybody dress like this? I have seen all the historical getups in books, but they don't tell how the clothes are made then put together. They are just books with pictures in them. I am a modern seamstress so don't know how clothes of hundreds of years were put together.
Will have to admit, the Robe a la Francaise was the gown that made me fall in love with the period. There's definitely something alluring about the way the gown looks on someone.
thank you!
Yes there was no right or left shoe in those days
Me too !
It's a very alluring feminine way to dress. The second season of "Outlander" is set in 18th century Paris. The action and intrigue of the season was great but the clothes were a treat for the eyes. Dior copied some variations literally in his New Look.
The pockets of my dreams. You can stick a leg of lamb in one and a knitting project in the other.
I hope its frozen lamb, for personal protection though!!
Hahaha
How did women go from pockets like that to no pockets at all
there is quite a long discussion going on about that right now...and a lot of other interesting and problematic bits about modern body ideals and fashion...
I hear men were worried about us spreading little "seeds of sedition". We should bring back pockets. I'm on the first steps to adding them to all my clothing.
Spoiler alert: It's to spread sedition.
laziness
Bag
I think it's due to the purse industry.
I would be willing to still take that long to get dressed for one simple reason which I will state right now:
They had pockets.
LOVELY. It's a surprise how easily such an elaborate garment is put on, not nearly as many pins as I thought it would take to keep everything in place.
indeed! it's all an illusion :-D
Can you imagine if one of the middle layers became untied? Lol!
it rarely happens, but I did have a quilted petticoat come unhooked during a presentation once...I should've used a tie instead of a hook, lol
How if we doing, scars on our tie chlotes? Ina diseases.
Have a good friend start digging under your skirts 🤣
When I was a kid I watched Marie Antoinette and found a book of 18th century fashion my mother owned and I was from then on obsessed with this dress. I cut a hole into a cardboard box and hopped into it and put a blanket around my waist to imitate the skirt lol... you're living my childhood dream
thank you! You are always welcome in the historical costuming community - come to the dark side!
Gorgeous !I'm French and I always loved these kinds of dresses from our past but I never knew that's how they had to be put on !Really thought the outer layer was only one piece ! Thank you so much for this beautiful video !
I just subscribed !
Glad it was helpful!
Beautiful! You became exactly what I picture when I think of porcelain figurines.
thank you!
I once had the pleasure to be able to dress like this in my local museum, situated in a 17th century Dutch merchant house. An exhibition of antique clothing provided the visitors with copies of the pieces on show, to try for themselves. It was such fun but unimaginable wearing this elaborate and very heavy attire every single day.. But then again, the ladies who could afford such luxurious garments had servants for about everything... and didn't have to lift s finger..
This step-by-step getting dress process is AWESOME. And the gown is GORGEOUS.
thank you!
@@AmericanDuchess1 You're very welcome!
I've really learned something. I had no idea the whole thing was precariously held together by pins. Incredible.
thanks! glad to have shown the process clearly :-)
This is so pretty and inspiring! I want to make my own sacque now. Very well done as always.
Go for it! You can do this!
I have always wanted to make a Robe a la Francaise but I had NO IDEA it was pinned together when you put it on. How did I go so long without knowing this?!
The secret is that they're not all pinned like this! In the 1760s it was common to have a "comperes" front - a false front...so basically the stomacher is stitched at the sides and it buttons, hooks, or pins at the center front. It meant you couldn't switch out the stomacher for a different style, but I will admit it makes putting the gown on much quicker and easier.
Thank you so much for going into detail about how you pinned the stomacher to the stays and the robe to the stomacher. Extremely useful and you look amazing as always!
Glad it was helpful!
Using the panniers as pockets is pure genius!
you can fit SO much in them too!
@@AmericanDuchess1 For some reason my first thought was "think of all the snacks and soda you could smuggle into the movie theater!" I only did it once because I was a good girl and it made me feel guilty. lol
5:30 oh my goodness! She looks like one of the girls in the painting which i don't remember, I'm impressed! How i wish to go back in the ancient times and wear this beautiful dresses
thank you so much!
Look into museums and historical sites that may hire people to depict historical life. You may be able to find opportunities.
Imagine having this dress during the summer. It would be so warm !
Actually quite cool. Silks and cottons, all light fabrics, and plenty of air circulation. No nylon or other man-made fabrics, and no underwear, just the linen shift, so no infections in the undergussetage area.
Poor husbands!!!🙄🙄
Well knowing that they didn’t bathe much .. I don’t wanna imagine 🙃
@@333Laura they might not have taken a bath often... but they did wash.
This is one of the best demonstrations that I have seen. Thankyou.
thanks!
Coming back to watch again because this is just so beautiful....
hi again!
The dress/grown is absolutely stunning! I need to make one for myself. ❤
thank you!
Beautiful dress and informative video! Thank you for showing how to pin this gown. It was as much a mystery as it was to some of your other viewers.
Glad it was helpful!
i was literally JUST scouring youtube for a video like this, you are mind readers!
absolutely adore your channel, thank you so much for all the lovely videos and wonderful history!
thank you!
I love how she, every now and again addresses us (the viewers) with her eyes!
;-)
Absolutely love the shoes, so adorable!!!
thank you!
Appreciate this so much as many dress up vids leave out how they pin the dress.
Speaking of pins PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE DO NOT PUT PINS IN YOUR MOUTH!
Sadly ppl do inhale pins and can die that way. They have to be surgically removed from the lung. Please don’t put pins in the mouth!
thank you
I second this, my grandfather was a surgeon
Yes!
it's my anxiety when I see someone with pines or nails in the mouth.. D:
me, with pins in my mouth constantly: 👀
I just adore Sacque-gowns. Absolutely stunning video, thank you for sharing! ❤️❤️ im off to sew my own now 😆
thank you! and good luck on your make!
I am adding this to my little ones night music plus i love this 💕 the music is so soothing
It just makes it so cool that people truly dressed like this, and got ready like this!! Real people of the past! Just so cool!
thank you!
Huzzah! Beautifully done, ladies! Brings back memories of getting dressed at French and Indian War reenactments. A lesson in how not to boil in a canvas tent and pass out before one is completely dressed! Forty-five minutes and 15 pounds later.... I hope nobody can hear those Ruffles potato chips in my panniers....
And another thing,don't stand too close to the fire if you are wearing a crinoline!
Then pockets and trim are the best thing here. Really useful to see!
yes, the pockets are truly epic!
That's truly beautiful !! Thank you so much for the video ! 😍
Glad you liked it!
That is so cool! After binging historical sewing videos and doing a report on the Baroque and Rococo Era I never knew that panier hoops could be used as pockets! That honesty makes so much sense though, a dual-purpose costume piece. I mean, I should of noticed since they are called pocket hoops lol.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I love every single bit of this but will just say... purty shoes!
thank you!
this is absolutely gorgeous, i was so excited for this video and you did not disappoint!
Thank you so much!!
Qué hermoso vestido!!!!
Gracias por compartir. Está espectacular
I wouldn't get out of bed if i had to wear all that clobber everyday ..as beautiful as it looks 🌷
Beautiful music 🍂
The was the style of dress that made me fall in love with the period . its the one period I keep going back too wether it be books movies or tv series I love it. I hope one day to try it on and see what it felt like .
its from this period that I branched out to others and honesty going all the way to ancient times.
no little bum wiggle this time !
I'm so glad this inspires you! Ah, indeed, i did not wiggle...next time!
@@AmericanDuchess1 I'm pretty sure it was the TV series aristocrats that sealed the deal for me.
It´s lovely!!! Really elegant colours. Love it!!!
Thank you so much!
OMG.....This was just beautiful to watch and your gown is breathtaking in its subtle shading. I am subscribing!!!
thank you so much! and thank you so much for subscribing
Beautifully shot video! Love it way more than those 'I try to be funny but I'm not' videos from some others. And I love that you showed in detail how you pinned your dress! This will be extremley helpful for newbies who never pinned a dress before! When I started it took me quite some time to figure out how to pin my dress. :D
And you reminded me that I wanted to do a dressing video of my Marie Antoinette court gown. So thanks for that!
I would love to see more dressing videos from you and maybe also little DIY projects or more hairvideos - or more (new) podcasts! They were so amazing and I always listened to them when I was in fashion school sewing modern clothes which brought me no joy at all because I wanted to make costumes.
thank you!
Just beautiful! I thought those gowns were one and done growing up but it takes building to get the silhouette and look from multiple layers to create such lovely garments.
indeed!
You look so amazing in this outfit! Love everything about it.
Thank you so much!!
Stunning video of ladies fashion in the past!
Wow, thank you!
Imagine if you need to get out of that dress and you can’t remember where you put all of the pins....
That would be me
Anita Diaz same
Same
I'd stab myself with the pins. Inevitable....
@@thecook8964 same here 😅😅😅
Absolutely fascinating how it all comes together! So beautiful... pure artistry I love it!💓
Thank you so much!
Incredible! Thank you for the demonstration.
My pleasure!
Very informative. I was unaware of exactly how the stomacher was attached to the ensemble. Look forward to more such videos.
Glad it was helpful!
This gown gives me such Glenn close in dangerous liaisons vibes I'm in love
This is one of my favorite eras of history and fashion! So beautiful
thank you!
Stunning! Thank you for this.
Glad you like it!
Oh wow, I loved seeing this dress and how it all came together 🌹 Thank you
Thank you! 😊
Please do a video of how to dress a riding habit! I would love to watch it!（big fan of 18th riding habits here :P）
Ah, thank you for reminding me! I do have a 1740s-50s riding habit...now, does it still fit? hrmmm....
i wish we still wore these types of dresses and that they were normal i love them so much
No you don’t lol. You have to be of high rank and or fortune to afford dresses like this and women could not be comfortable because of the corset and many layers.
@@Starsnotdiamonds Did you watch the video luv? Stays were cimfortable and fit for ones body and if you don't want layers, panniers and crinolines were a thing. You should do a little more research.
How could anything hurt under those layers
@@Starsnotdiamonds you don't have to have immense wealth to wear something like this today. You need to know how to sew historical clothes and enough money to buy fabrics and undergarments. Everything was custom made so it fit like a glove and was certainly comfortable.
Anything is better than those ghastly torn jeans & shaven heads!
These videos are great. Thank you so much for taking the time to educate us. I am planning to make a dress like this and have watched this particular video a few times for ideas. I have never made a dress but I love this era so much and have to attempt it. Starting with the corset, fingers crossed! Thank you again for the content.
glad to be of help! best of luck on your dress project!!
What a lovely and elegant, demonstration.
thank you
!!!Вот какая конструкция у платьев 18 века! Очень красиво!
Can someone please tell me what this song is? It’s so gorgeous and i could swear I’ve even played it
www.epidemicsound.com/track/kuqrBtUYj5/ (I've used it several times in my own videos - so calming.)
Fabulous!!! Now I need to grind some to do this with every era. This is fascinating!!
You can do it!
I just got the book and corresponding patterns (dress and undergarments). I'm so excited to try sewing this for myself!
Hope you enjoy it!
Such a lovely video! Thank you for explaining everything! I do have a question: since the stomacher and gown are pinned to the stays, does using the pins cause damage to the fabric on the long term?
In the long term, yes it does. There are small holes and scarring - it's actually one of the ways we know how gowns were closed in this period with pins, because many surviving gowns show the pin marks.
So interesting to watch the fashions change over the centuries. I used to wonder why packets of pins were popular gifts for women until I started learning how the clothing was put together.
This gown is just wonderful!!!!! The gown suits you just as well as the previous “ a la Polonaise” ❤️❤️❤️
Oh thank you!
This outfit is just divine!!!!
thank you!
As much as I love looking at period costumes like this one, I’m just glad I was born in this century as it takes a minute to get dressed. 😂
true, we care much less about clothing these days. It no longer represents our status or wealth.
I can see myself sweating already in the middle of that corset HAHAHA
Very fascinating, however I'm thankful for today's dresses, one piece, pullover, zip-up!
素敵です✨
発見の連続、とても勉強になりました！！
As a French, I've always been interested in our fashion of the past, I thought the dress was one piece, and there were the undergarments, but it's actually multiple one o-o
French people always had the best fashion. Hands down.
Dios pero cuánto trabajo pero sin duda se veían hermosas en esos vestidos es fantástico ver cómo ah evolucionado la ropa ah el punto de que ahora es tan horrible pero que se puede hacer.... 😔exelente vídeo 🥰
I had no idea about the pockets! Love it!
best kept 18th century secret!
That silk is absolutely divine!
thanks!
Imagine sewing all the dress together by hand,it will take more than 30 days just make one.
yes, this one was sewn entirely by hand. It does take a long time. In the 18th century, gowns like this one were sewn by teams of women in a shop, not just one in the home on weekends like me, and could be made in as quick as just one day.
Putting together a dress like this is labor intensive,by standard of that time one has very rich in order to afford it.
Seamstresses were a dime a dozen in those days. One person, unless one was of the lower class, did not create a whole dress. Collective effort.
I so want to make this dress and all its layers but I've promised my self I'll finish all my UFO,s first, so I'll have to be happy watching your handy work, Jason England, 🤓
That's some good discipline there, Jason!
I just started to make my own robe a la Francaise in the pevious days! I am so happy to see this video! This is really inspiring to me :3
You got this!
Thank you so much, it's one thing to read about dresses from this period but quite another to have a real understanding. I knew dressing was somewhat involved, petticoat, stays etc. but not HOW involved. Fascinating! Have to admit, I'd have to watch a few times before I ever tried to wear something like that; pretty sure I'd forget what goes on when. LOVED the material!!
thank you so much! It's very fun to wear these pieces - feels amazing and informative, like experiential archaeology. You are welcome to the historical costuming community any time!
@@AmericanDuchess1 Thank you! The evolution of styles is not only interesting to see but also fun & informative.
It's after years of working to dead lines and fittings dress runs for run through's on stage, my own work always got left till last or never got finished so I now make my self finish projects or plan a new project first so I am prepared from start to finish, it's a bit OCD, Jason, England
makes perfect sense!
I know it’s a silly question but I need to know, are the pocket hoops used as pockets?
yes, and they hold SO MUCH STUFF!
American Duchess ooohhh nice
Beautiful and nice! Thank you for great video!!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Very helpful resource/reference!
I would love to try to make a gown in this style. I'd cheat though, since I don't trust myself with so many pins, by hiding some snaps.
you should do it! also, there is a historically accurate way that avoids pins - you make a false stomacher stitched to the sides of the gown. It opens center front and closes with buttons or hooks. :-) Buttons were especially common.
@@AmericanDuchess1 That is so cool! Thanks for the tip :-)
I’ve always wondered, was there a real purpose to the outer stomacher? From my uneducated POV it just looks like a filler piece because the gown doesn’t fully close.
It was there for decoration. You could switch out different ones to change the look of the gown - maybe one that is a contrasting color, perhaps has embroidery or metalwork on it, etc. Shortly after this period, in the 1770s, gowns did begin to close center front and stomachers disappeared.
The whole outfit is gorgeous, but those shoes!! I love them!
thank you!
The lace on the sleeves is so beautiful
thanks!
Us girls really lucked out this century, imagine how much stuff u would put in those pockets
Robe à la française.
The accent is pretty important, otherwise, it would mean "Dress have the French"
you figured it out just fine no one thinks that
@@stinew358 are you french ? how can you say that if you are not...
I don't care about the accent, it can go I won't complain. But the ç !
I can't. It change the prononciation of the word, it's painful.
have you SEEN the dress. clearly this dress is using the woman inside to display itself beautifully lol, the dress has the woman
Very informative, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Such a long process but I love it ❤️