"Akiyo Naguchi is the master of movement, but Janja Garnbret is the master of winning" - the commentator GOAT, Charlie Boscoe on climber GOAT, Janja Garnbret.
That second boulder though.... wow. I think route setting on this level is one of the most demanding jobs in the world, those guys' nerves must be wrecked. Can't make it too easy, can't make it too hard. And you have to judge how hard it's going to be. Great commenters too, and outstanding climbers across the board. A joy to watch... I'm really happy climbing will be an Olympic event.
=[ they missed a couple of big moves on the men’s one too. I guess it comes with having multiple competitors going up at the same time... no excuse when there’s only one person climbing tho 😅
@@chickenspy1854 Still hard to pick the right camera in the instant. But they did do a good job with the replay, so we got to see the move perfectly after all =)
I would've loved to see Janjas interview after the competition. She is just so passionate and determined and has the happy smile of a child it is always great to watch her. It's kinda funny how she can climb so powerfully and beautifully and just turn into a pure and innocent baby the second she's off the wall lol
Charlie must have said 10 times that Janja didn't need to top the boulder. Would have been nice to have him commenting on what she was actually doing on it :-(
this is a very random broadcasts of the world championships with qualifying beeing unlisted, live video appruptly ending, then vanishing from the video page. obviously this needs more people to take care of. its quite a shame we don't get to see the woman on the podium
W2 was disappointing. Had to fast forward all these monotonous jumps from start. Only one top and not a single zone for me means that boulder was messed up :( sorry for time lost.
As soon as the commentator says Shauna is doing good she's unable to even get zone. I swear he has actual magic powers. Not a single comp goes by without him jinxing someone 😂
The length of the video spoiled the competition. In the end I noticed, that there is only 4 Minutes of Video left but 2 Athletes still to go. So it was pretty sure, that both will Flash the boulder or at least make it to the Top in way under 4 Minutes. And thsi also spoiled that Janja will win
Ah.. Come on. What would you like? Random blackscreen throughout the video so you wouldn't be able to predict anything? Janja was at the top in the qualifications, at the top in the semis so it's kinda a big possibility that she would come out at the top now, right?
@@evab.6240 5 or 10 minutes of screensaver at the end would save spoiling it though, whether we expected her to win or not. Plenty of competitions shown on UA-cam nowadays avoid spoiling results by way of video length and it's always appreciated.
@@TheRomokop unfortantly I was working at this time. And putting a puffer in the end would be nice, also having the commentators talking a bit about the competition at all like you have it in lot of other sports
If you like parkour, there are better places where you can try all the coordination moves you like. This should be boulder and it has been ruined by the need of pleasure the new public that look only for the "wow" factor and does not understand anything about climbing.
Nicola Pace yes kind of because boulder world cups would get boring if all it was was just power boulders and crimps. Also their reaches a point where climbers get too good at old style bouldering and so route setters need to find new ways to challenge them thus bouldering evolving into a more dynamic style
It's a competition. Please stop putting in complex puzzles. The climbers just don't have the luxury of time to figure a problem out. If climbers like Ondra and Nonaka fail to even get on the first hold, the route setters are doing something wrong.
Jump,Jump and jump. This is not climbing anymore, it's getting so boring. It feels more like a poker game now days....luck. I've been watching bouldering for 10 years now and comparing to even just as far back as the 2016 Work Champs when Petra won....that was climbing. Even the world cups are just jump after jump after jump. Dont get me wrong these climbers are the words best but this seems more like gymnastics climbing.
Totally agree. This seems closer to a parkour competition than climbing. There isn't enough variety -- it's all coordination and timing based jumps, and we end up seeing more falling than anything.
@@echindaplatypus exactly, every boulder feels like it's only one hard jump move then when they eventually get that move the rest of the boulder seem like a walk in the park. I'm sure this as frustrating for the climbers too. I also think this is why super strong athletes like Fanny Gibert, Petra Klingler and Jessy Pilz, to name a few, are not consistantly up there because it's jumping instead of climbing. (I mean if you strong, you strong). If any new climbing spectators don't understand this, go and look at years like 2014/15 or 16 and you'll get it.
#2 is a disgrace to the sport. Go start a parkour gym or something, that is just nonsense. I'm starting to miss the boring tendon exploding crimp-fests of the stonemasters comps in the 80's and 90's after seeing this shit. #3 with the BS contrived start position isn't much better. This is the world cup championships... I hope this isn't a preview of what we see in the Tokyo Olympics.
Boulering is like this nowadays. I’m afraid it is the style the audience prefers. But it was definitely not enjoyable to see climbers and climbers not being able to pull that move off. The route setters should know the limit of dynamic boulders
Agree completely. Boulders like this aren’t “rock” climbing nor do they resemble any boulder in nature. I don’t deny the athleticism needed to do it but it’s a different sport. I know the trend is toward more dynamic “showy” moves but I think they should retain some relation to actual rock climbing. Maybe I’m just an old grouch but that’s my $0.02
1) Jeez, way to slam jazz on international television, dude. Rude! 2) That was not jazz. It's a pop song from the 60’s by The Buckinghams. 3) Those guys were great, entertaining in their home town, and you belittled them. Dollars to donuts you can’t play any instrument, and if you can, you must not be good enough to play jazz.
Should be brushed already. Seeing the climbers must complete a problem within the time limit, that wasted 20 secs could have coated Shauna her place on the podium.
The second and third boulders were dogshit. Coordination dynos are ruining this sport. They don't resemble rock climbing, a large portion of the climbing community doesn't have much interest in them or enjoy climbing on them, yet they are crammed down everyone's throats. I'm surprised more boulderers have not yet abandoned IFSC events. I know that I greatly prefer watching the worlds best rock climbing to doing parkour, so I find it disappointing to see coordination move after coordination move after coordination move in comps.
start impossible for short climbers on problem 1, finish hold obviously impossible to reach on problem 2 for short climbers...should i go on watching those shi..y problems?? They say size doesn't matter...ok.....
I learned climbing in the Elbsandsteingebirge, Saxon Switzerland, Germany, where the rules are stronger. May be 'not allowed' isn't the right word, better: stand on knee is frowned upon.
@@tomtomlacht4921 hahaha as long as you get to the top using only the holds in that route use whatever you can! If you gotta use your chin to get there use ya chin! Only thing that matters is getting to the top.
climbers introduced at 8:05
viewing time starts at 10:05
climbing starts at 27:42
Sophie thanks
real mvp
Thank you, i was looking for something like this 😌
Thank you, the channel should do this on the video description.
Thx, but Shauna comes at 7:30 😉
"Akiyo Naguchi is the master of movement, but Janja Garnbret is the master of winning" - the commentator GOAT, Charlie Boscoe on climber GOAT, Janja Garnbret.
Before I start watching this tonight, it's nice to see Shauna back on the big stage.
Just watching the janja swing on problem 1 makes my shoulder pop out in every possible direction at the same time...
*Start Buzzer Timestamps (SPOILERS)*
*W1*
Shauna Coxsey (GBR) - 27:21
Miho Nonaka (JPN) - 31:51
Ievgeniia Kazbekova (UKR) - 36:30
Nanako Kura (JPN) - 40:56
Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) - 45:26
Janja Garnbret (SLO) - 49:43
*W2*
Shauna Coxsey (GBR) - 53:12
Miho Nonaka (JPN) - 57:42
Ievgeniia Kazbekova (UKR) - 1:02:11
Nanako Kura (JPN) - 1:06:36
Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) - 1:11:14
Janja Garnbret (SLO) - 1:15:50
*W3*
Shauna Coxsey (GBR) - 1:22:42
Miho Nonaka (JPN) - 1:27:00
Ievgeniia Kazbekova (UKR) - 1:31:09
Nanako Kura (JPN) - 1:34:38
Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) - 1:39:09
Janja Garnbret (SLO) - 1:43:41
*W4*
Shauna Coxsey (GBR) - 1:49:20
Miho Nonaka (JPN) - 1:52:02
Ievgeniia Kazbekova (UKR) - 1:56:36
Nanako Kura (JPN) - 2:01:04
Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) - 2:05:41
Janja Garnbret (SLO) - 2:07:59
Thank you! :)
W1
Shauna Coxsey : 28:09
Miho Nonaka : 32:40
Levgeniia Kazbekova : 37:18
Nanako Kura : 41:42
Akiyo Noguchi : 46:14
Janja Garnbret : 50:33
W2
Shauna Coxsey : 54:00
Miho Nonaka : 58:30
Levgeniia Kazbekova : 1:03:00
Nanako Kura : 1:07:28
Akiyo Noguchi : 1:12:03
Janja Garnbret : 1:16:38
W3
Shauna Coxsey : 1:23:31
Miho Nonaka : 1:27:51
Levgeniia Kazbekova : 1:32:00
Nanako Kura : 1:35:27
Akiyo Noguchi : 1:39:58
Janja Garnbret : 1:44:30
W4
Shauna Coxsey : 1:50:08
Miho Nonaka : 1:52:51
Levgeniia Kazbekova : 1:57:24
Nanako Kura : 2:01:52
Akiyo Noguchi : 2:06:30
Janja Garnbret : 2:08:48
"We just got the opportunity to enjoy some jazz, I'm not really sure that's ever something that can be enjoyed but there we are" XD Dying lol
Oh, yeah, it’s great when dicks who can’t play comment on people who can...
That second boulder though.... wow. I think route setting on this level is one of the most demanding jobs in the world, those guys' nerves must be wrecked. Can't make it too easy, can't make it too hard. And you have to judge how hard it's going to be. Great commenters too, and outstanding climbers across the board. A joy to watch... I'm really happy climbing will be an Olympic event.
How could they mess up the camera angle when Janja did that move........
=[ they missed a couple of big moves on the men’s one too. I guess it comes with having multiple competitors going up at the same time... no excuse when there’s only one person climbing tho 😅
@@chickenspy1854 Still hard to pick the right camera in the instant. But they did do a good job with the replay, so we got to see the move perfectly after all =)
iFSC hires absolutely horrible camera crews. Missed critical moves are a staple in these events.
3:06 "if you're thinking a few of the climbers have let themselves go a bit, don't worry that is actually the band" lmao brutal
"band"...WTF even was that?
BAHAHHA
savage
Never before heard Joe Zawinul's "Mercy, mercy, mercy" (first recorded by Cannonball Adderley in 1966) brutalized so badly.
50:00, Akiyo Noguchi is the only one i've recently use a knee so far. She uses the knee, and makes good use out of it!
She's so good! So calculated and balanced and calm, I love her style!
I would've loved to see Janjas interview after the competition.
She is just so passionate and determined and has the happy smile of a child
it is always great to watch her.
It's kinda funny how she can climb so powerfully and beautifully
and just turn into a pure and innocent baby the second she's off the wall lol
(SPOILERS)
"Akiyo is the master of movement. Janja is the master of WINNING."
Ouch.
Massive LOL at the camera work on that crucial Janja move.
They really botched that crux!
The camera man fell off his chair, haha
@@dannykumite Yeah that explains it. Imagine that at the Olympics?
I think i've become an Ievgeniia fan. She has always something else in mind
Rather abrupt ending
Yeah. The podium is at the end of men's final video, btw :)
well done to Janja and all other climbers. Great work Shauna!!!
Женя, я так болела за вас! Я до последнего надеялась на место на подиуме. Ничего, все впереди! Так держать!
Goosebumps - what a final!
This championship 2019 in Japan is one of the best both for men and women
I think Janja is the best ambasador for this sport, always enjoy in what she better know.
Unbelievable that miho got up after that knee hit. That would've left me paralyzed for at least 10 minutes 😂
At least I was able to watch whole broadcast on our national TV, Janja is something else isn't she.
Great comp from Shauna!
Sooo happy for Janja!
Hello random person reading the comments. Have a nice day.
i'm a fan of ievgeniia kazbekova. beautiful climbing. and she is not wearing such a questionable ponytail ;)
Eu gostei bastante desse esporte, pena que aqui no Brasil eles não passam nos canais de esporte.
great Janja !
Janja ❤
Charlie must have said 10 times that Janja didn't need to top the boulder. Would have been nice to have him commenting on what she was actually doing on it :-(
So much better than the men's final!
Love Janja
All these boulders with a single hard move that most just fail on over and over. Feels boring
this is a very random broadcasts of the world championships with qualifying beeing unlisted, live video appruptly ending, then vanishing from the video page. obviously this needs more people to take care of. its quite a shame we don't get to see the woman on the podium
Yeah, they definitely need help. By the way the podium part and the interview is in the men's video at the end
26:04 even in JAPAN where they have all the technology anyone could imagine, the clock doesn't work - how else could it be!
good lord, that W2 boulder
i'm in love with Miho
Женя такая умничка и красотка просто ну вообще! =***
Please tone the bloody parkour circus moves down a bunch.
That intro band felt like a New Orleans brass band. Lol. It was pretty nice.
They were great. People who can’t ‘do’ always talk smack about people who can...
Camera person, you had one job! (Janja's move on prob 2)
mercy, mercy, mercy (for our fingers and shoulders)
I got it, dude. Nice one...
Where’s Fanny?
I miss when they used to have some hard routes to climb, not just parkour courses. One route, OK, all of them...yawn.
W2 was disappointing. Had to fast forward all these monotonous jumps from start.
Only one top and not a single zone for me means that boulder was messed up :( sorry for time lost.
It did a good job to show the big gap between Janja and the rest of the elite on such problems.
51:41
Look at that left hand! She's holding on with just 3 fingers!!
ievgeniia kazbekova really is the slab master xD
congratz to janja
I really enjoy watching Ievgeniia climb. I look forward to seeing her in more finals.
sad to see an almost empty stadium :/
Yea why is that? Innsbruck last year was completely packed!
and yet they claim these super dynamic moves that don't even resemble rock climbing are what people want to see these days
What you mean empty? All tickets were sold!
As soon as the commentator says Shauna is doing good she's unable to even get zone.
I swear he has actual magic powers. Not a single comp goes by without him jinxing someone 😂
The disconnect between comp climbing and outdoor climbing is unpalatable. At least have one comp with parkour and one comp authentic bouldering.
Epic battle!
No interview with the winner? How come?
its right after the mens finale
@@konstantinmicke4428 thanks!
Shockingly bad camera work on W2.
Men's setting was awful too.
IFSC. Up your game.
Shockingly bad route as well...
@@DesmondRayBeltrop yup. all four problems were dogshite.
The length of the video spoiled the competition. In the end I noticed, that there is only 4 Minutes of Video left but 2 Athletes still to go. So it was pretty sure, that both will Flash the boulder or at least make it to the Top in way under 4 Minutes. And thsi also spoiled that Janja will win
Ah.. Come on. What would you like? Random blackscreen throughout the video so you wouldn't be able to predict anything?
Janja was at the top in the qualifications, at the top in the semis so it's kinda a big possibility that she would come out at the top now, right?
@@evab.6240 5 or 10 minutes of screensaver at the end would save spoiling it though, whether we expected her to win or not. Plenty of competitions shown on UA-cam nowadays avoid spoiling results by way of video length and it's always appreciated.
watch it live?
@@TheRomokop unfortantly I was working at this time. And putting a puffer in the end would be nice, also having the commentators talking a bit about the competition at all like you have it in lot of other sports
Umm... maybe crop the first 45 seconds...
"Oh COME ON!"
it was streamed live
Anyway, this is not boulder anymore. Better call it for what it is: "Parkour World Championship 2019"
I get your point. It's getting further from outdoor bouldering. But at the same time, it's Hella fun to play on these coordination moves.
If you like parkour, there are better places where you can try all the coordination moves you like. This should be boulder and it has been ruined by the need of pleasure the new public that look only for the "wow" factor and does not understand anything about climbing.
Its the new style of bouldering, bouldering can evolve
This is not evolution, this is just show business.
Nicola Pace yes kind of because boulder world cups would get boring if all it was was just power boulders and crimps. Also their reaches a point where climbers get too good at old style bouldering and so route setters need to find new ways to challenge them thus bouldering evolving into a more dynamic style
Decent setting. At least it was hard enough. But kind of annoying to only have one stopper move each boulder.
The setters were trying to stop Janja from crushing but only succeed one out of 4 /s
아니; 너무 어렵자네 이거. 아키호가 전략수정하면서 하는게 진짜 멋지네.
It's a competition. Please stop putting in complex puzzles. The climbers just don't have the luxury of time to figure a problem out. If climbers like Ondra and Nonaka fail to even get on the first hold, the route setters are doing something wrong.
Jump,Jump and jump. This is not climbing anymore, it's getting so boring. It feels more like a poker game now days....luck. I've been watching bouldering for 10 years now and comparing to even just as far back as the 2016 Work Champs when Petra won....that was climbing. Even the world cups are just jump after jump after jump. Dont get me wrong these climbers are the words best but this seems more like gymnastics climbing.
Totally agree. This seems closer to a parkour competition than climbing. There isn't enough variety -- it's all coordination and timing based jumps, and we end up seeing more falling than anything.
@@echindaplatypus exactly, every boulder feels like it's only one hard jump move then when they eventually get that move the rest of the boulder seem like a walk in the park. I'm sure this as frustrating for the climbers too. I also think this is why super strong athletes like Fanny Gibert, Petra Klingler and Jessy Pilz, to name a few, are not consistantly up there because it's jumping instead of climbing. (I mean if you strong, you strong). If any new climbing spectators don't understand this, go and look at years like 2014/15 or 16 and you'll get it.
Theyre trying to bring in more viewers with more crowd friendly moves.
Did she lick that top hold at 1:30:10?
Looks like it to me :D:D:D
What happened at 1:17:57
A damp barbeque?
Consider that line stolen.😁👍
Does anyone know the name of the commentators?
Charlie Boscoe & Mike Langley. Imo the best combination for commentating the World Cups etc.
#2 is a disgrace to the sport. Go start a parkour gym or something, that is just nonsense. I'm starting to miss the boring tendon exploding crimp-fests of the stonemasters comps in the 80's and 90's after seeing this shit. #3 with the BS contrived start position isn't much better. This is the world cup championships... I hope this isn't a preview of what we see in the Tokyo Olympics.
Boulering is like this nowadays. I’m afraid it is the style the audience prefers. But it was definitely not enjoyable to see climbers and climbers not being able to pull that move off. The route setters should know the limit of dynamic boulders
Agree completely. Boulders like this aren’t “rock” climbing nor do they resemble any boulder in nature. I don’t deny the athleticism needed to do it but it’s a different sport. I know the trend is toward more dynamic “showy” moves but I think they should retain some relation to actual rock climbing. Maybe I’m just an old grouch but that’s my $0.02
@@swhitem I completely agree
Spoiling the end with the time left on the clip. Sadness that i think sometimes.
1) Jeez, way to slam jazz on international television, dude. Rude!
2) That was not jazz. It's a pop song from the 60’s by The Buckinghams.
3) Those guys were great, entertaining in their home town, and you belittled them. Dollars to donuts you can’t play any instrument, and if you can, you must not be good enough to play jazz.
Pisses me off when *the first competitor* has to ask for brushers 28:35
Davy Ker stfu
It makes sense as the holds already have chalk on them
Should be brushed already.
Seeing the climbers must complete a problem within the time limit, that wasted 20 secs could have coated Shauna her place on the podium.
@@alexkirk3118 What?
@@alexkirk3118 Idiot. I'm saying there shouldn't be chalk there. They should brush everything meticulously before anyone comes out.
The second and third boulders were dogshit. Coordination dynos are ruining this sport. They don't resemble rock climbing, a large portion of the climbing community doesn't have much interest in them or enjoy climbing on them, yet they are crammed down everyone's throats. I'm surprised more boulderers have not yet abandoned IFSC events. I know that I greatly prefer watching the worlds best rock climbing to doing parkour, so I find it disappointing to see coordination move after coordination move after coordination move in comps.
1:18:44 massive moment
This is more like parkour than bouldering. It's boring to look at.
FFS Charlie, learn how to pronounce Nanako!
start impossible for short climbers on problem 1, finish hold obviously impossible to reach on problem 2 for short climbers...should i go on watching those shi..y problems?? They say size doesn't matter...ok.....
Why is this in my History? I've never watched it.
*eyeroll*... Tokyo metro is the most populous metro area, Tokyo isn't the most populous city. Learn the difference ffs.
Shit routesetting. If I want to watch someone not do any climbing I can just film myself instead 👍👍
Boring
i like Akiyo so very very much; but using knee isn't allowed
of course it's allowed LOL. It's not usually used because releasing your knee is ridiculously difficult
I learned climbing in the Elbsandsteingebirge, Saxon Switzerland, Germany, where the rules are stronger.
May be 'not allowed' isn't the right word, better: stand on knee is frowned upon.
@@tomtomlacht4921 hahaha as long as you get to the top using only the holds in that route use whatever you can! If you gotta use your chin to get there use ya chin! Only thing that matters is getting to the top.
Must be old school. Knee climbing used to be looked down upon but it's generally accepted now