Nice video. Thanks for posting. 3 questions: 1. What is the pH/Hardness of your source water? 2. What is the pH/Hardness of your treated water? 3. What is the benefits of a back washing pH mitigation system vs the system you services in this video?
They system was installed before we bought the house. I actually have a water test from before the system was installed (pH 6.2 / Hardness 7.8 gpg), but I can't find results from a test done after (I know there was was one). I also don't know anything about the benefits of a backwash system.
Adding this tip hear for others reference. I spoke with a pro who recommended that I add a flush valve right after the neutralizer and before water softner. This will allow you to flush the neutralizer and not clog anything else up stream after adding calcite.
Great video. Thanks. My tank was virtually empty. Probably needs 3 bags. When removing the valve, the entire tube with basket came up. Do I need gravel at the bottom of the tank? Just about 3 inches of of crud at the bottom.
It looks like some systems do have gravel, and some don't. Since there was just crud in the bottom of yours, I would guess there wasn't any gravel. I am not an expert in water filtration. You probably should call someone that is to get the best advice.
What do you do if when you unscrew the top valve and the pipe that goes down the tank comes out? How do you prevent this from happening in the future? It ended up coming out back 5 inches before I could grab the pipe. we were able to turn and muscle it most of the way down, but then took a mallet and lightly hammered it back down, and eventually got it close enough so the threads would catch and got it spun on.
Glad you got it figured out. I hadn't heard of that happening before. Worst case would be that you have to empty everything out and then reassemble it. To prevent it from happening in the future, on mine, it is just an o-ring that holds it on the top. Make sure it is well lubed with food grade silicone lubricant. Don't use petroleum jelly, it will degrade the o-ring over time.
Good video! after refill, when i open the water valve slowly, it still lifts up much during the backwash and I'm concern the calcite is washed out. is there a point in adding more gravel maybe? is that the gravel purpose?
I am not a water filtration expert, but the gravel is usually below the bedding and is used to help evenly distribute water flow. The previous owners of my house put in the system and did it as cheap as possible. there is no backwash on my system, so not entirely sure how that is supposed to work. I would suggest you check with the people who installed it to be sure.
@@TheFixitShed Thanks for sharing the content! When it comes to water applications, always use a PTFE teflon or silicone based lubricant on rubber o-rings. These o-ring lubes help enhance the overall seal and extend service life, where vaseline is known to cause rubber to swell or dry out, which can lead to premature wear/failure.
NO petroleum jelly on any sealing rings! This will deteriorate the rings. Silicone or vegetable oil is typically recommended. Also, not a bad idea to wear a dust mask when pouring the calcite. That stuff is not all that good for your lungs.
Correct. I have a video coming out soon where I say the same thing. Not sure what I was thinking in this video. As I was pouring the calcite, and looking at the dust I was thinking that I should probably be wearing a mask. Thanks for commenting!
Was coming here to post a warning about incompatibility between the petroleum jelly and the rubber o-rings as well. I sell and use synthetic plumbing grease for this purpose as well as cartridge-based filter housing o-rings. I sell many o-rings to replace those swollen by petroleum products to the point they won't fit where they belong. Source: am plumbing supplier
Yeah, I've been hearing that about petroleum jelly for 30 plus years, it may be true but apparently it takes a long long time for it to happen. I have acid water as well as hard water. The acid neutrelizer also has 30 years of jelly..
Thanks for the tip about marking the fill line. Going to do that too once I get my system in.
Glad it was helpful!
Good man. Thanks. My system is identical to yours so it was perfect for me.
Thanks, I am glad it helped you out.
Nice video. Thanks for posting.
3 questions:
1. What is the pH/Hardness of your source water?
2. What is the pH/Hardness of your treated water?
3. What is the benefits of a back washing pH mitigation system vs the system you services in this video?
They system was installed before we bought the house. I actually have a water test from before the system was installed (pH 6.2 / Hardness 7.8 gpg), but I can't find results from a test done after (I know there was was one). I also don't know anything about the benefits of a backwash system.
Best video on this. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Adding this tip hear for others reference. I spoke with a pro who recommended that I add a flush valve right after the neutralizer and before water softner. This will allow you to flush the neutralizer and not clog anything else up stream after adding calcite.
Good tip! Thanks for contributing.
Great video. Thanks. My tank was virtually empty. Probably needs 3 bags. When removing the valve, the entire tube with basket came up. Do I need gravel at the bottom of the tank? Just about 3 inches of of crud at the bottom.
It looks like some systems do have gravel, and some don't. Since there was just crud in the bottom of yours, I would guess there wasn't any gravel. I am not an expert in water filtration. You probably should call someone that is to get the best advice.
Good stuff, thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
What do you do if when you unscrew the top valve and the pipe that goes down the tank comes out?
How do you prevent this from happening in the future?
It ended up coming out back 5 inches before I could grab the pipe. we were able to turn and muscle it most of the way down, but then took a mallet and lightly hammered it back down, and eventually got it close enough so the threads would catch and got it spun on.
Glad you got it figured out. I hadn't heard of that happening before. Worst case would be that you have to empty everything out and then reassemble it. To prevent it from happening in the future, on mine, it is just an o-ring that holds it on the top. Make sure it is well lubed with food grade silicone lubricant. Don't use petroleum jelly, it will degrade the o-ring over time.
Good video! after refill, when i open the water valve slowly, it still lifts up much during the backwash and I'm concern the calcite is washed out. is there a point in adding more gravel maybe? is that the gravel purpose?
I am not a water filtration expert, but the gravel is usually below the bedding and is used to help evenly distribute water flow. The previous owners of my house put in the system and did it as cheap as possible. there is no backwash on my system, so not entirely sure how that is supposed to work. I would suggest you check with the people who installed it to be sure.
@@TheFixitShed thanks
@@TheFixitShed Thanks for sharing the content! When it comes to water applications, always use a PTFE teflon or silicone based lubricant on rubber o-rings. These o-ring lubes help enhance the overall seal and extend service life, where vaseline is known to cause rubber to swell or dry out, which can lead to premature wear/failure.
Wouldn’t petroleum jelly dissolve the orings?
@jeffp565 yes, I mention that in the description
How much water did you remove? Was the water removed to the level of the calcite remaining in the tank?
I think I took out about 5 gallons. The water was still above the remaining calcite.
What Brand of Calcite are you using?
IMERYS Carbonates
What is fungtion of calcite dude?
If you have acidic water, the calcite reacts with the water to raise the pH, so that the water doesn't damage the plumbing.
what is the diameter of the tank you filled?
The diameter is approx. 10.25 inches. Circumference is just over 32 inches.
@@TheFixitShed thank you
Isn’t this used for neutralizing fruits like mangoes? 🥭
I am completely unfamiliar with that.
NO petroleum jelly on any sealing rings! This will deteriorate the rings. Silicone or vegetable oil is typically recommended. Also, not a bad idea to wear a dust mask when pouring the calcite. That stuff is not all that good for your lungs.
Correct. I have a video coming out soon where I say the same thing. Not sure what I was thinking in this video. As I was pouring the calcite, and looking at the dust I was thinking that I should probably be wearing a mask. Thanks for commenting!
@@TheFixitShed In all honesty, I didnt think of using a mask until after the fact, either. I'll do better next time. : )
Was coming here to post a warning about incompatibility between the petroleum jelly and the rubber o-rings as well. I sell and use synthetic plumbing grease for this purpose as well as cartridge-based filter housing o-rings. I sell many o-rings to replace those swollen by petroleum products to the point they won't fit where they belong.
Source: am plumbing supplier
Yeah, I've been hearing that about petroleum jelly for 30 plus years, it may be true but apparently it takes a long long time for it to happen. I have acid water as well as hard water. The acid neutrelizer also has 30 years of jelly..