Hi Al Sometimes damp on or usually in a corner of a ceiling, particularly noticeable in the winter can be an indication of poor or no loft insulation. We also had the same problem and cured it after a builder mate gave the advice about the insulation. Most people will tend to open the window when taking a shower or when cooking for example, fine in the summer months, but in the winter this adds to the problem of drawing cold damp air from outside then mixing with the warm humid air. Over time, this can lead to the problem of mould and mildew on ceilings. I hope the north wind doesn't decide to blow through your new vent on a cold winters night and blast you right in the khyber pass lol :-)
Sort of right. Cold damp air from outside will still hold less moisture than warm humid air inside the home. It's nearly always worthwhile opening windows, if nothing else you get fresh air into your home. Indoor air is incredibly polluted just by the materials in our home and lifestyles. Basically if it isn't raining the air outside will normally be dryer than the air inside, and certainly healthier. Heat also helps, keeping your rooms at a sensible temperature will help prevent mould when combined with good ventilation.
@@stefanoliwa625 we have window vents but our back bedroom suffers every winter with mould on the ceilings in the corner right near the window and directly above the window Absolutely fine in the summer and that and the bathroom which is next to that bedroom suffers to with mould but I put that down to showering.
Great video. I use a dehumidifier. I bought one from screwfix. In the winter I put it in the hallway and run it for 4-5 hours at night before I go to bed leaving the bedroom doors open when it's on. It gathers 500ml of water in that time. I get next to no condensation on my windows in the morning now. The one I bought also has a clothes drying function and only costs about 2p an hour to run.
Yes more ventilation helps, although in bedrooms or any room black mould is condensation not damp. Damp is as a result of damp course breaking down and it will travel only 3 feet. Cant reach the bedrooms. I find it is a matter of planning when one wakes up in the morning open the bedroom window and shut the door on leaving, after breakfast shut the window. If a wet patch does appear on the bedroom wall and it is not black check for leak in the loft or roof etc.
I noticed the room had UPVC windows fitted, these are probably an retro fit. The problem with them is that they help to seal up the room from draughts that may have there with older wooden frames. These day the better UPVC windows come fitted with "trickle vents" which stop the condensation problems. They can be retro fitted to the UPVC window and don't cost much money.
Having air bricks done really work. Most houses have trickle vents fitted and they are the same principle and they dont stop the water residue on windows or mould in corners. Ive been looking for a solution for years and found out about the Drimaster positive input ventilation.
I have tried all the usual ways to prevent damp in our house and I was thinking of these units myself. Did you fit the unit yourself and how do you find these units?
Agree with all you have said, PPVs are the way to go, NuAir made in UK, they often come with small heat element. A lot depends on your loft, does it trap warm air, does it warm even in winter catching South direction
Best solution is run a dehumidifier through the daylight hrs , it will remove the dampness you will see just how much water it’s removed before you go to bed it will surprise you at least if pints in Six Hrs
Thank you very much for this video. Exactly what I was looking for - damp corner in bedroom at ceiling point where the 2 outside walls meet. Just as shown in your video. Will be looking into options available to increase air flow - a vent to the outdoors in Eastern Canada may be a bit much (Maritimes, lots of snow and wind) but I'm pleased to see there's solutions. :)
Great job! Too many people assume heating is the answer. Funnily enough, there's a blocked up vent in my bedroom (which will feature briefly in my next video).
If you notice in attics the insulation is not rolled to the eves this could also be causing the mould in top corner my advice would be to add insulation out as far as you can reach and just leave a 50mm gap in the attic at the eves for air flow
I had a damp specialist show me that on a sloped ceiling that had mould growth that the reason there are vertical streaks is due to mould growing where there is no insulation, and the clean lines are where the roof joists are. And in bedroom the cold corner has no insulation in the eves hence mould growth.. he said you can add celotex insulation or wash down (I've used diluted bleach/mould cleaner works well) and add air brick or ventilation which should stop mould coming back.
Thought Id have a look at the comments.. I admire your patience in replying! I have been watching loads of vids about damp/ condensation /insulation lateley . I live in an old lighthouse with regular westerly gales that blow horizontal rain. The airbricks had been sealed up/painted over (for a reason??) so I am going to experiment by opening them up and bolting on an oversize roof tile to the outside to prevent the rain blasting in using spacers to hold it away from the wall to leave a gap for air (wind) to pass arround to the airbrick then to ventilate the underfloor. Wish me luck...
simply because houses sweat if you dont introduce fresh air , water (air moisture) turns grows spaws and before you know it damp conditions, ideal high and low level vents combined are the best. trickle vents were removed in double glazing which was the worse thing they ever did
Fairplay on your video will help with air circulation and some condensation but the reason condensation is happening is because heat is meeting cold the window seals are broken if they are double glazed thats why the windows are like that and the walls are not insulated properly. Ive seen huge amounts of insulation put in houses then a big hole put in the walls pointless having insulation then. Ps the only vents suitable for insulated houses are automatic or extraction. Local council houses seem to be the only ones that have damp problems because the council will not pay to fix them properly.
I'm facing this issue at the moment water leakage through the seal and council saying it is condensation my bedding, clothing also feel damp... Total hell mate
What you need are air changes per hour, cold as it may be you need rid of stale humid air and need to keep the fabric of the building warm, a juggling act, an interior fan running or windows permanently open front and back for cross flow ventilation.
Just moved into our property, and the previous owner "cleverly" did something similar and covered the holes with a slat of wood from the inside. 🤦🏻♀️ Thank you for your video!
Surely there has to be a better solution to ventilation than having gaping holes in the wall. I'm in a council flat atm and the cold air just pours through the 'vent' making heating the property almost impossible when the winter sets in.
@@jefflangan6422 Check your damp course 4 brick between floor and course...is the pointing on top of the course in good nick. Brick work might need pointing . If your gutters leak or overflow due to debris leaves . In heavy rain The walls stay damp it goes through to to inside. Causing damp mold... Screw fix sell a tub of ready to use mix for a £5 Goes along way. Trowl £2.75 Amazon. Gutters are easy to clean/repair. Might help Jeff.
It simple, condensation is caused by two things: moisture in the air and cold surfaces. If you eradicate one or the other or both you shouldn’t get a problem.
Is it an older home I live in Canada and I live in a home that was built in the 60s and was told there is not a vapor barrier in the walls we gutted the bedroom and installed the vapor barrier and havent had a problem since, that's if you want to go to that extreme, we did have a major mould problem.
too much moisture, all homes have moisture, but its too much moisture, so cut down the moisture from cooking, bathrooms, drying clothes in doors (air rack etc). 6 heating will warm the air, dry out the moisture, but its still there, once you turn off the heating, the air cools and releases the moisture, so ventilation or a dehumidifier is need to blow or suck out the moisture.. until then, buy a hand held glass cleaner, you can buy easy, and every morning, do the windows, walls if damp, shower glass, especially after use.. also, long socks filled with cat litter is a cheap way of sucking up moisture, once it goes hard, chuck away old cat litter, refill, replace at damp points, window ledges etc..
Hi Al. You are correct in that using a dehumidifier does not cure the root of the problem but many people could find it hard to solve the root of the problem. These may include tenants with an indebited landlord etc. If this is the case then I suggest they try a moisture absorber first as these only cost the price of purchase (ie no running costs). If these are ineffective then a full size dehumidifier will definitely do the job and units like the Meaco 20L Energy Efficient dehumidifier only use 255w so that's not too bad.You can also purchase dehumidifier with an energy saving funtion and these units either automatically turn off or run in fan only mode once the set relative humidity level has been reached. Therefore running costs will be lower than other comparable dehumidifiers without this feature. Nice video (again) btw. :-) Just to add that landlords can write of a dehumidifier as an expense so if you are a tenant pproach your landlord first if you want to buy a dehumidifier and see what they say.
+dereton33 That previous statement was not really true. Most mould problems are caused by occupier lifestyle not construction issues. Landlords should not have to bear the cost for damage caused by a tenant. In most cases mould is caused by failure of the tenant to ventilate and heat properly. I have had tenants cause hundreds of pounds worth of damage by turning off bathroom extractors, drying laundry indoors on racks as they said the dryer was too expensive, and not heating the place properly (again they said it was too expensive) I had to completely redecorate once I gave them their notice. New tenants are brilliant, and guess what, no problems with mould. I now have black mould listed as chargeable damage in my tenancy agreements. People are too quick to blame landlords. Unless there is obviously a leak (water staining) along with the mould, and it is confined to one area, look at your lifestyle first!
+Spencer Wilton I am a landlord too and have had the same experience as you. One tenant was terrible for mould in one apartment whereas I've had no mould/damp issue with anyone else in the same apartment. However many properties were thrown up quickly during the last housing boom using inexpensive or rather inferior products in order to maximise profit. Once the 10 year guarantee is up then the property starts falling down. So I would say yes some damp problems are caused by construction issues. The fact that the UK average humidity level is over 65% (which is when mould begins to grow) does not help matters either. I do agree that when tenants dry clothes indoors, block vents, don't open windows etc then it's their own fault if they get mould and the landlord should not be liable.
Airflow is good but can be cold and draughty, no good if wet outdoors as high humidity. This time of the year I use a Dehmidifier to control the relative humidity level to below 50%. Above 60% there's a higher risk of condensation and mold problems. You can get really efficient low energy 150 watt units these days (meacodry ABC 12L) and they come on automatically so aren't on unnecessarily.🙂
@@dereton33 Hey, sorry if I offended you, it wasn't meant that way. Mould is often misdiagnosed as being caused by damp so people do not consider their living habits which are more often the cause.
@@raydavison2972 well said! I would even take this video down as other people have comments on what is wrong. You don’t need a vent , simply open a window in the morning for 5-10 minutes or buy a new window with treacle vent . It’s misleading. And the point you’re making as well is condensation created by the occupants. If it’s damp it’s would be running down the wall and yellow and brown stains . Obviously not as you can see .
All condensation is damp but not all damp is condensation. Giving somebody a slap on the wrist for something that you understood very well is a thing on its own. I leave that up to you.
I've had a problem with damp then mould and two really cold bedrooms for quite a number of years now, the rest of the house is fine. The house is 25 years old and for the first 15 + years we had no problem but now the rooms are freezing and clothing damp in cupboards. We also have a damp smell. Over the years I have had a variety of different experts in. 1. Window man in ...he sealed up all the window vents. 2. Another window man come....he put new vents in and new rubbers and hinges on PVC windows 3. Plumber come took out radiators and put extra large ones in. 4. Bought an extremely expensive dehumidifier, it fills to top once a week. 5. Had more insulation put in the loft 6. Had the Cavity Wall Insulation Polystyrene Beads put in. 7. Had new windows put in. 8. Had a system put up in attic that is suppose to circulate air. 9. Bought wardrobe heaters which nearly burned the bloody house down. ( please do not buy these, they are very, very dangerous) Now I am having the shower taken down in the bathroom (which is next to these two bedrooms) because the plumber says he thinks there's a leak. Will someone, for the love of all the is holy, tell me what the hell else I can do?
Ok so I've now had a person in with a Thermal Imaging camera and he has found what he believes is the problem. The camera has shown that several parts of the room the temperature is only 10 degrees ..mostly in the corners and along the front facing wall. His solution is to block up several vents at the front of the house, as he says they are creating a draft because instead of circulating air around the roof, as they are suppose to do, they are causing a draft between my ceiling and upstairs floors. I live in a dormer so the ceiling of the downstairs and the floor of upstairs is where the vents are placed. He also says that I will have to do both the rooms in insulated slab and to make sure I do ceiling, walls and floors.. This is going to have to wait because at this stage I have to save before I can start work AGAIN
Ellen Ruddy hi ellen my other comment about cold getting in to meet hot seems to be fairly close to the problem you are having hope its fixed for u soon
Good advice, but not so good for the winter when freezing cold air is blowing through the outside air brick into the void. I live on the hill opposite your property and realise the issue with living so close to the sea and its associated issues. This is fine during the summer, but come winter you do not want cold air blowing in to your bedroom and those types of vents, in my opinion, will not stop the gusts entering your bedroom in storms even when closed. I have found the only thing that eliminates this condensation damp from sleeping in a cold bedroom with the door shut is heat. It's the bedroom walls being very cold and breathing in bed that causes the damp on the walls as your breath condensates on the cold bedroom walls overnight. The other device I use on occasion is a large dehumidifier to draw out the moisture in the rooms and can get from a small glass to a pint of water out of the air over several hours, using it in several rooms. Good vids as always but I felt I had to elaborate considering I live in the same area as you and experience the same seasonal issues. Keep the great vids coming.👍
No problem, great to have another viewpoint, I have, since this video was completed fitted a hit and miss vent to the bedroom wall so Regulating the amount of air coming in. I also use a dehumidifier now.
Landlord put vent in corner of room for same reasons but it made the wall and room colder and didn't stop the problem. I painted with primer then gloss paint which stopped mould. If the walls were made of inferior materials then this can cause mould. Always check if walls are made of asbestos cement b4 u drill or cut outs for vents, air blowing through asbestos walls will blow asbestos particles into your home and then you'll breathe it in.
Good video. I actually did this in my garden shed, which was dripping with condensation - the problem pretty much immediately went away (I still however air the shed out regularly, on clear/dry days, which helps too.
I expect this solution depends on whether the property has had cavity wall insulation installed. If so, this would be the reason for having had the outside vent blocked up. And, in which case, any cold patch on the internal side of an outside wall (on which condensation and then mould is forming) could mean there's a thermal bridge across the cavity at that point, possibly meaning either the cavity wall has failed there and/or something is conducting the heat from the warmer inner wall of the cavity wall to the outer cooler wall (as I understand it).
This is ideal for me, I have a terrible gas problem, it really bothers my wife but I quite enjoy it, Every Sunday it becomes a problem, especially if I eat Yorkshire puddings and Brussel sprouts. Hit and miss just like my gas problem. Every 1 in 10 leaves a stain.
An easier, and far less invasive option, would be to simply open a window at times. Most people who have any clue about the anatomy of buildings would just do that, and regardless of the season. This appears to be simple condensation. Your house also looks to be rendered from the outside, which quite often affects breathe-ability. Also, based on where you’re getting a small amount of damp in the corner of the ceiling, it could be a result of the insulation you have in your loft. I suspect it’s packed full of it and i bet if you removed some, it would also remedy the issue.
Don't suppose you could do a video fitting an air brick outside could you? I have a damp issue in the corner of a bedroom, looked outside and there is no vent at all, so looks I will need to add one from scratch. Many thanks.
I am a window fitter , i always tell customers to change the air in your house every day , air flow stops condensation and mould, always open your windows, when your at home
@@dereton33 hello mate I have damp on a wall bow window level and just above floor level.. could you put a vent at that level? Its side wall as victorian
I have an extra Fan in my bathroom. So cold air will come into the room from outside especially if it’s windy . I am constantly treating mould in the corner above this fan . So l do not believe that putting a vent in that corner will eradicate the damp problem . I use a dehumidifier during the winter this has stopped the mould . Each day the dehumidifier will extract 6 pints of water . And we get a small amount of vapour which forms overnight which we remove with a dry cloth .
I have an air vent in my bedroom and there's still damp present. I also have an issue where everything in the room feels clammy. It's very frustrating, all of my clean clothes constantly smell musty too.
I have this problem too. Windows open often, air vent does not appear to be blocked. I do need to fix the radiator and have bought a dehumidifier, not ideal but i live in rented room, limited what i can do. have also been told to de-clutter, to allow more air flow in the room
I have an air vent in our small room but let’s in a breeze even with a hit and miss vent closed. The double glazed window has a trickle vent, will this be sufficient enough so I can block up the air vent?
Interesting. By installing that screen, arent you just venting the cavity in a cavity walled property. Personally there should be an air brick installed externally with a fitted sleeve to bridge the cavity and going up to your new vent screen. That way you get rid of any moisture in a room directly to the outside rather than it just dissipating in the cavity zone.
Wayne, I had a similar thought. The outside vent could have been sealed up due to the installation of cavity wall insulation. In which case, wouldn't it mean the cavity wall insulation is now exposed to the damp outside?
Hi buddy love your videos in our spare room there IS a very already however still got moisture in the corners (upper) and in.particular bottom corner x1m currently painting the room.out and the bottom in particular where moisture has wet paint as such I'm assuming I have a separate issue? The chimney is the opposite side to this semi detached Thanks
Great vid. I live in a house with cobbed walls so impractical to make a vent. Would putting a vent in the ceiling directly under the attic be a alternative?
@@beppesapone1733 yes but I have a air vent in my bedroom. And even when closed. It still let's in cold. And terrible noise from the road and outside. That's why people cement over them. The condensation can be stopped with a humidifier
I have a timber framed house, some years ago I came into a bit of money and had all the windows replaced with triple glazing there were no vents built in the house was built in 2003 and I live on the NE coast of Ireland, there has been black sooty mould growing on the window frame and walls the interior pane gets fogged in the morning. Regards
Hi Al, I seem to have a very smelly loft and it seems damp. Could it be that after fitting very good and insulated loft hatch I created the problem? I have a lot of stuff in the loft and it all stinks. Getting dehumidifier in Screwfix tomorrow. Could there also be a small leak from the roof? But I have the water tanks and central heating tank there too. Bit baffled! 🤔
@@dereton33, Thanks Al, I have bought a dehumidifier and ozone www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B076GZ26ZF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to get rid of the smell. It seems it's not that bad but I also found this ua-cam.com/video/vDWzITdEt5o/v-deo.html Seems a simple and easy solution. Will be checking for loose tiles on the roof too.
@noxxi knox , thank you! I have bought these www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01BLCI14C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The house is 1907 Victorian. In 2018 unless the roof is vented there will be a problem. I think I caught it just in time 😉 👍
Hi, did you manage to fix this problem? Things in my loft smell too. When the suitcases come down for holidays they smell musty and have white mould on them.
Hi Al, once again, a very concise video. I'm currently converting a single skin brick garden workshop into a small photography studio. I've removed the ceiling to open up the roof space for extra height. It's now insulated with 50mm Kingspan. The internal walls are framed and insulated too. Upon checking it, the surface of the uppermost part of the Kingspan lining the roof has collected condensation. Should I be fitting these vents either side of the building (one high, one low) to allow air flow. I'm in central Scotland where its damp outside most of the time so I'm not too keen on introducing it to the inside of the building. Your advice would be very valuable to my progress with the project. Cheers
Hi thank you for sharing your knowledge, do you know if there is a lot of damp like this on the walls of the bottom flat (as in on the top of walls and ceiling), will it affect the flat above if the resident in the bottom flat doesn't do anything to fix the damp issue ?
The jobs are so well explained, make you want try thr job yourself. Thank you and I will be subscribing to your channel. Thank you, a very likeable man.
I have a 3 bedroom house. We don't open any of our windows the whole week. We have no air vents whatsoever for the house. House completely tiled that adds more cold inside the house. Even if we do have to open the window we get caught at night for condensation or it will start in the mornings. Either times our walls start to perspire with drips of water running down the walls. Even our pillows get caught up with water from those dripping walls of moisture. Our last resort now is putting on the air vents. Like the smart idea of your air vents. Thankyou sir.
Hi dereton33, thanks for the video. What if there is no existing vent to unblock... do I need to add something to the outside? If I just drill the holes through the wall, then I've got an unsightly mess on the outside of the wall? And possibly water ingress? Thanks in advance for any advice.
nock the old plaster off puton framework about inch think fill all voids with insulation plasterboard it skim it paint it and u wont see that problem ever again buy some insulation roll and make sure everythings covered in the loft :) air vent in uk will let moist air and cold into your house between october and march
Thanks for the tips. But it is so difficult to avoid mould when you live in a small flat. we only have a small vent on top of the double glaze window within the window frame. the sliding one. The mould has stained the corner of the roof. I guess we just need to treat it and do the painting.
I have the exact same issue , live in a small flat, those " tickle vents " on the windows don't really do much at all barely even prevent condensation on the glass let alone preventing any damp/mould , I painted over mine with ronseal damp paint first , you might wanna look at getting a portable dehumidifier to put on your window ledge you can pick them up for about £30 on amazon / ebay and help a lot in small rooms , best of luck :)
A dehumidifier is your best option by far. Also buy some cheap humidity meters from Amazon and put one in each room. You need to keep relative humidity below 60%
@@mririshman9631 I don't use my heating upstairs. It's to expensive. That's why mine is a damp. Il put paint over it haaa.. Il open my window more often in a dry day
I live in a 1930's house so the bedrooms have chimney breasts although the fire places have been removed & filled in, can these vents be fitted to them instead of the outside walls?, & if so is it low down or near to the ceiling?.
Thank you for reply to this video still. I have a vent outside with bricks missing and then plasterboard on the wall inside. I have fitted a vent inside just like the one in the video bu the wall is still damp. Any ideas ?
Our flat had a fireplace in the bedroom long before we moved in. The room feels cold and damp, more than the rest of the flat if the door is kept shut. Should there have been a vent put in where the fireplace was. Do you think this would make any difference? Thanks.
i have had black mould in my bedroom for many months even had the wall washed and papered but it still came back i had my loft insulated and the external wall insulated i allways have my top window open no matter how cold it is right now im decorating my bedroom ive rewashed the mould areas with polycell mould remover and i got a mould eraticor kit from my housing assc ohh and my outside walls have been sprayed with a water residant mix i still get condensation on my windows and i got 2 humidifers from pound shop which are filling up and a fan i got to help air the room i will update you in a few months let you know if mould has gone
There lies your problem, insulating the walls actually traps condensation which then has nowhere to escape. Check out this site it helped me alot www.heritage-house.org/damp-and-condensation/managing-damp-in-old-buildings.html
Bit late perhaps to save you mr Ben, but google weather conditions in your town - if the humidity is above 60% then there's really no point in opening your windows, it will just make it worse, you are essentially forcing wet air inside. Buy a small electric dehumidifier, the ones from poundland do nothing really. The amount of water those will absorb is absolutely nothing in a room where you need to remove water from the air. Our Bedroom ALWAYS rises up to 80% humidity (and causes all kinds of problems), but we run a dehumidifier 24/7 to keep it around 40-50% and our problems have gone away.
Hi there, we need to do exactly this but my wife is worried they were blocked up for the cavity wall insulation. Do you have any advice on how to handle this?
That’s not damp but condensation With little air circulation the warm air inside from breath over night etc or warm heating contacts the outside walls which are cold which forms water particles which left when dry out produce particles which then attracts more moisture and then can form damp in walls Best option to keep all furniture off of walls and radiators ie beds And crack the window open to let the room breathe 👍🏼
This a very common problem. But it is not damp it is condensation it is caused by the moisture in your breath hitting cold wall and turning from vapour to liquid then mould forms. Gentleman is correct ventilation is the answer. Just open windows .
Hello can you give me any ideas how to fix a dam problem. Our Internal wall is wet to the touch an wall paper pealing off . It is in the center of the house, so not has other walls around it. Thanks ?
i have a built in wardrobe with plasterboard walls. for air flow can i make two holes and put vent covers on? does one need to be high and one low? also what way should the vents face. thank you in advance
How come i have rising damp on internal walls of the old part of my house? extension on back to kitchen is fine. Solid floors put in some time ago in place of timber, re-plasterd dashed on outside looks like its even passed its life span, marble chips white background going black with dirt, original air bricks plastered over! why they did this I will never know but its maybe because they thought as the timber floors were taken out and replaced with solid that it would be ok,?
William is right. A few holes is not enough. You need to cut a rectangular hole in the wall so the full length and width of the vent can recive air. Basically drilling only a few whole as the guy did in the video will only use about 20% of the vented area behind. The vents are designed to be a size suitable to allow air flow and need a hole behind them the size of the vent. There not designed to work as intended when you just drill a few holes.
Does using dehumifers kill mold or stop new mold appearing I have mold in my bedroom and I use dehumifers also is salt effective and ok to use in dehumifers that have crystals in the top of dehumifer when Crystal's have run out I wanna save money and not have to keep buying more dehumifers when Crystal's have run out
What do I do if there is no vent in the room? I mean I have a vent for warm air, but I don't have a vent that leads outside, I don't know how else to increase the air flow in my bedroom. It's also in the basement, and there's no particular corner that's damp, it's just very humid. It's like walking into a room full of soup, the rest of the house is far less humid.
I have no air vents in my flat they've all been filled in when I moved in I was healthy but now I have c. O. P. D., what should I do to help my health we have pigeons and seagulls too
Hi Al
Sometimes damp on or usually in a corner of a ceiling, particularly noticeable in the winter can be an indication of poor or no loft insulation. We also had the same problem and cured it after a builder mate gave the advice about the insulation. Most people will tend to open the window when taking a shower or when cooking for example, fine in the summer months, but in the winter this adds to the problem of drawing cold damp air from outside then mixing with the warm humid air. Over time, this can lead to the problem of mould and mildew on ceilings. I hope the north wind doesn't decide to blow through your new vent on a cold winters night and blast you right in the khyber pass lol :-)
Thanks for the info Cliff. Al.
Sort of right. Cold damp air from outside will still hold less moisture than warm humid air inside the home. It's nearly always worthwhile opening windows, if nothing else you get fresh air into your home. Indoor air is incredibly polluted just by the materials in our home and lifestyles. Basically if it isn't raining the air outside will normally be dryer than the air inside, and certainly healthier. Heat also helps, keeping your rooms at a sensible temperature will help prevent mould when combined with good ventilation.
Yup that's cold bridge. Vent help with condensation, but why make all cold and unefficient. Window with vents will be sufficient
@@stefanoliwa625 we have window vents but our back bedroom suffers every winter with mould on the ceilings in the corner right near the window and directly above the window Absolutely fine in the summer and that and the bathroom which is next to that bedroom suffers to with mould but I put that down to showering.
Great video. I use a dehumidifier. I bought one from screwfix. In the winter I put it in the hallway and run it for 4-5 hours at night before I go to bed leaving the bedroom doors open when it's on. It gathers 500ml of water in that time. I get next to no condensation on my windows in the morning now. The one I bought also has a clothes drying function and only costs about 2p an hour to run.
Thanks for sharing
Hi, any chance you could tell me the model you bought, I'm after getting one for my damp issue. Cheers
What make mate?
Which one did you get?
Yes more ventilation helps, although in bedrooms or any room black mould is condensation not damp. Damp is as a result of damp course breaking down and it will travel only 3 feet. Cant reach the bedrooms. I find it is a matter of planning when one wakes up in the morning open the bedroom window and shut the door on leaving, after breakfast shut the window. If a wet patch does appear on the bedroom wall and it is not black check for leak in the loft or roof etc.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for sharing I put one in my bedroom and it works brilliantly thanks
I noticed the room had UPVC windows fitted, these are probably an retro fit. The problem with them is that they help to seal up the room from draughts that may have there with older wooden frames. These day the better UPVC windows come fitted with "trickle vents" which stop the condensation problems. They can be retro fitted to the UPVC window and don't cost much money.
Thanks for the info.
Having air bricks done really work. Most houses have trickle vents fitted and they are the same principle and they dont stop the water residue on windows or mould in corners. Ive been looking for a solution for years and found out about the Drimaster positive input ventilation.
I have tried all the usual ways to prevent damp in our house and I was thinking of these units myself. Did you fit the unit yourself and how do you find these units?
Agree with all you have said, PPVs are the way to go, NuAir made in UK, they often come with small heat element. A lot depends on your loft, does it trap warm air, does it warm even in winter catching South direction
Best solution is run a dehumidifier through the daylight hrs , it will remove the dampness you will see just how much water it’s removed before you go to bed it will surprise you at least if pints in Six Hrs
Thank you very much for this video. Exactly what I was looking for - damp corner in bedroom at ceiling point where the 2 outside walls meet. Just as shown in your video. Will be looking into options available to increase air flow - a vent to the outdoors in Eastern Canada may be a bit much (Maritimes, lots of snow and wind) but I'm pleased to see there's solutions. :)
Thanks for sharing. I blocked one of these up a few years ago from the inside of the bedroom and some damp has appeared. Will sort it in spring.
@Colonel Ga-Taffy Seagull noise!
No , problem you have is condensation not damp . Just control it by opening a window up for few minutes every day.
Great job! Too many people assume heating is the answer. Funnily enough, there's a blocked up vent in my bedroom (which will feature briefly in my next video).
Olly Parry-Jones Keep up the good work, will look forward to your video. Al.
Thanks for subscribing, by the way.
If you notice in attics the insulation is not rolled to the eves this could also be causing the mould in top corner my advice would be to add insulation out as far as you can reach and just leave a 50mm gap in the attic at the eves for air flow
Hi, how would you recommend doing this on slanted ceiling?
I had a damp specialist show me that on a sloped ceiling that had mould growth that the reason there are vertical streaks is due to mould growing where there is no insulation, and the clean lines are where the roof joists are. And in bedroom the cold corner has no insulation in the eves hence mould growth.. he said you can add celotex insulation or wash down (I've used diluted bleach/mould cleaner works well) and add air brick or ventilation which should stop mould coming back.
Thought Id have a look at the comments.. I admire your patience in replying! I have been watching loads of vids about damp/ condensation /insulation lateley . I live in an old lighthouse with regular westerly gales that blow horizontal rain. The airbricks had been sealed up/painted over (for a reason??) so I am going to experiment by opening them up and bolting on an oversize roof tile to the outside to prevent the rain blasting in using spacers to hold it away from the wall to leave a gap for air (wind) to pass arround to the airbrick then to ventilate the underfloor. Wish me luck...
Good luck Andrew.
@@dereton33 Thanks, I think I will need it!
Air vents are a must, especially in older houses.
True but in smaller properties they let drafts in , especially in the winter
Simplicity, and soo effective I take my hat off to you good sir
Thank you.
simply because houses sweat if you dont introduce fresh air , water (air moisture) turns grows spaws and before you know it damp conditions, ideal high and low level vents combined are the best. trickle vents were removed in double glazing which was the worse thing they ever did
Thanks for the info Paul.
Fairplay on your video will help with air circulation and some condensation but the reason condensation is happening is because heat is meeting cold the window seals are broken if they are double glazed thats why the windows are like that and the walls are not insulated properly. Ive seen huge amounts of insulation put in houses then a big hole put in the walls pointless having insulation then. Ps the only vents suitable for insulated houses are automatic or extraction. Local council houses seem to be the only ones that have damp problems because the council will not pay to fix them properly.
I'm facing this issue at the moment water leakage through the seal and council saying it is condensation my bedding, clothing also feel damp... Total hell mate
@@carmel-wayfinder5401 keep getting onto them
What you need are air changes per hour, cold as it may be you need rid of stale humid air and need to keep the fabric of the building warm, a juggling act, an interior fan running or windows permanently open front and back for cross flow ventilation.
Thanks.
Just moved into our property, and the previous owner "cleverly" did something similar and covered the holes with a slat of wood from the inside. 🤦🏻♀️ Thank you for your video!
It happens all the time.
@@dereton33 went to bnq after watching. Installing it now. 😁
Surely there has to be a better solution to ventilation than having gaping holes in the wall. I'm in a council flat atm and the cold air just pours through the 'vent' making heating the property almost impossible when the winter sets in.
Try a humidifier.
@@dereton33 i think he means de-humidifier
Ghost
Buy a vent cover with a
Slider so you can open & close at will
Nightmare, the mold just keeps coming back no matter what we do so just keep cleaning.
@@jefflangan6422
Check your damp course
4 brick between floor and course...is the pointing on top of the course in good nick.
Brick work might need
pointing .
If your gutters leak or overflow due to debris leaves . In heavy rain
The walls stay damp it goes through to to inside.
Causing damp mold...
Screw fix sell a tub of ready to use mix for a £5
Goes along way.
Trowl £2.75
Amazon.
Gutters are easy to clean/repair.
Might help Jeff.
It simple, condensation is caused by two things: moisture in the air and cold surfaces.
If you eradicate one or the other or both you shouldn’t get a problem.
Jam, if you put heating on in the room, you'll automatically warm surfaces up.
Is it an older home I live in Canada and I live in a home that was built in the 60s and was told there is not a vapor barrier in the walls we gutted the bedroom and installed the vapor barrier and havent had a problem since, that's if you want to go to that extreme, we did have a major mould problem.
too much moisture, all homes have moisture, but its too much moisture, so cut down the moisture from cooking, bathrooms, drying clothes in doors (air rack etc). 6 heating will warm the air, dry out the moisture, but its still there, once you turn off the heating, the air cools and releases the moisture, so ventilation or a dehumidifier is need to blow or suck out the moisture.. until then, buy a hand held glass cleaner, you can buy easy, and every morning, do the windows, walls if damp, shower glass, especially after use.. also, long socks filled with cat litter is a cheap way of sucking up moisture, once it goes hard, chuck away old cat litter, refill, replace at damp points, window ledges etc..
Hi Al. You are correct in that using a dehumidifier does not cure the root of the problem but many people could find it hard to solve the root of the problem. These may include tenants with an indebited landlord etc. If this is the case then I suggest they try a moisture absorber first as these only cost the price of purchase (ie no running costs). If these are ineffective then a full size dehumidifier will definitely do the job and units like the Meaco 20L Energy Efficient dehumidifier only use 255w so that's not too bad.You can also purchase dehumidifier with an energy saving funtion and these units either automatically turn off or run in fan only mode once the set relative humidity level has been reached. Therefore running costs will be lower than other comparable dehumidifiers without this feature. Nice video (again) btw. :-) Just to add that landlords can write of a dehumidifier as an expense so if you are a tenant pproach your landlord first if you want to buy a dehumidifier and see what they say.
+ByeMould . Thanks for the info.
+dereton33 That previous statement was not really true. Most mould problems are caused by occupier lifestyle not construction issues. Landlords should not have to bear the cost for damage caused by a tenant. In most cases mould is caused by failure of the tenant to ventilate and heat properly. I have had tenants cause hundreds of pounds worth of damage by turning off bathroom extractors, drying laundry indoors on racks as they said the dryer was too expensive, and not heating the place properly (again they said it was too expensive) I had to completely redecorate once I gave them their notice. New tenants are brilliant, and guess what, no problems with mould. I now have black mould listed as chargeable damage in my tenancy agreements. People are too quick to blame landlords. Unless there is obviously a leak (water staining) along with the mould, and it is confined to one area, look at your lifestyle first!
+Spencer Wilton I am a landlord too and have had the same experience as you. One tenant was terrible for mould in one apartment whereas I've had no mould/damp issue with anyone else in the same apartment. However many properties were thrown up quickly during the last housing boom using inexpensive or rather inferior products in order to maximise profit. Once the 10 year guarantee is up then the property starts falling down. So I would say yes some damp problems are caused by construction issues. The fact that the UK average humidity level is over 65% (which is when mould begins to grow) does not help matters either. I do agree that when tenants dry clothes indoors, block vents, don't open windows etc then it's their own fault if they get mould and the landlord should not be liable.
BTW Al. I've subscribed to your excellent channel. :-)
Thanks very much.
You get an immediate like for reminding me about spiders. NO to creepy crawlies
Ha ha , don`t you just love them.
Airflow is good but can be cold and draughty, no good if wet outdoors as high humidity. This time of the year I use a Dehmidifier to control the relative humidity level to below 50%. Above 60% there's a higher risk of condensation and mold problems. You can get really efficient low energy 150 watt units these days (meacodry ABC 12L) and they come on automatically so aren't on unnecessarily.🙂
Thanks.
You've just given me another job, many thanks
My pleasure! Ha ha.
A useful video explaining a simple fix but never refer to mould as being caused by damp, it is caused by condensation.
Ok, thanks. Give me a slap on the wrist.
@@dereton33 Hey, sorry if I offended you, it wasn't meant that way. Mould is often misdiagnosed as being caused by damp so people do not consider their living habits which are more often the cause.
@@raydavison2972 well said! I would even take this video down as other people have comments on what is wrong.
You don’t need a vent , simply open a window in the morning for 5-10 minutes or buy a new window with treacle vent . It’s misleading. And the point you’re making as well is condensation created by the occupants. If it’s damp it’s would be running down the wall and yellow and brown stains . Obviously not as you can see .
All condensation is damp but not all damp is condensation. Giving somebody a slap on the wrist for something that you understood very well is a thing on its own. I leave that up to you.
What’s the difference between damp and condensation?
I've had a problem with damp then mould and two really cold bedrooms for quite a number of years now, the rest of the house is fine. The house is 25 years old and for the first 15 + years we had no problem but now the rooms are freezing and clothing damp in cupboards. We also have a damp smell.
Over the years I have had a variety of different experts in.
1. Window man in ...he sealed up all the window vents.
2. Another window man come....he put new vents in and new rubbers and hinges on PVC windows
3. Plumber come took out radiators and put extra large ones in.
4. Bought an extremely expensive dehumidifier, it fills to top once a week.
5. Had more insulation put in the loft
6. Had the Cavity Wall Insulation Polystyrene Beads put in.
7. Had new windows put in.
8. Had a system put up in attic that is suppose to circulate air.
9. Bought wardrobe heaters which nearly burned the bloody house down. ( please do not buy these, they are very, very dangerous)
Now I am having the shower taken down in the bathroom (which is next to these two bedrooms) because the plumber says he thinks there's a leak.
Will someone, for the love of all the is holy, tell me what the hell else I can do?
Get an Expert in who knows he`s stuff. A good architect.
A pretty good extractor fan in the shower not a 30 quid one
Have one Keith... cost £190.... and I still have damp...
Ok so I've now had a person in with a Thermal Imaging camera and he has found what he believes is the problem.
The camera has shown that several parts of the room the temperature is only 10 degrees ..mostly in the corners and along the front facing wall.
His solution is to block up several vents at the front of the house, as he says they are creating a draft because instead of circulating air around the roof, as they are suppose to do, they are causing a draft between my ceiling and upstairs floors.
I live in a dormer so the ceiling of the downstairs and the floor of upstairs is where the vents are placed.
He also says that I will have to do both the rooms in insulated slab and to make sure I do ceiling, walls and floors..
This is going to have to wait because at this stage I have to save before I can start work AGAIN
Ellen Ruddy hi ellen my other comment about cold getting in to meet hot seems to be fairly close to the problem you are having hope its fixed for u soon
Thanks for this video . I searched for a long time for instructions how to fit a hit and miss vent.
No problem!
What a beautiful view from your window.
Good advice, but not so good for the winter when freezing cold air is blowing through the outside air brick into the void. I live on the hill opposite your property and realise the issue with living so close to the sea and its associated issues. This is fine during the summer, but come winter you do not want cold air blowing in to your bedroom and those types of vents, in my opinion, will not stop the gusts entering your bedroom in storms even when closed.
I have found the only thing that eliminates this condensation damp from sleeping in a cold bedroom with the door shut is heat. It's the bedroom walls being very cold and breathing in bed that causes the damp on the walls as your breath condensates on the cold bedroom walls overnight.
The other device I use on occasion is a large dehumidifier to draw out the moisture in the rooms and can get from a small glass to a pint of water out of the air over several hours, using it in several rooms.
Good vids as always but I felt I had to elaborate considering I live in the same area as you and experience the same seasonal issues. Keep the great vids coming.👍
No problem, great to have another viewpoint, I have, since this video was completed fitted a hit and miss vent to the bedroom wall so Regulating the amount of air coming in. I also use a dehumidifier now.
Landlord put vent in corner of room for same reasons but it made the wall and room colder and didn't stop the problem. I painted with primer then gloss paint which stopped mould. If the walls were made of inferior materials then this can cause mould. Always check if walls are made of asbestos cement b4 u drill or cut outs for vents, air blowing through asbestos walls will blow asbestos particles into your home and then you'll breathe it in.
This is awful advice
Such a lovely man, thank you for these wonderful videos. Much appreciated.
ngatiramona your more than welcome
Good video. I actually did this in my garden shed, which was dripping with condensation - the problem pretty much immediately went away (I still however air the shed out regularly, on clear/dry days, which helps too.
Thanks for sharing
Any suggestions/tips on damp in fitted wardrobes, especially ones fitted to external walls? Love your videos!
You can get some gell that helps absorb water, that have known to work.
Thanks for making this video. I have an identical problem so I'll be giving this a go!:)
No problem.
I expect this solution depends on whether the property has had cavity wall insulation installed. If so, this would be the reason for having had the outside vent blocked up. And, in which case, any cold patch on the internal side of an outside wall (on which condensation and then mould is forming) could mean there's a thermal bridge across the cavity at that point, possibly meaning either the cavity wall has failed there and/or something is conducting the heat from the warmer inner wall of the cavity wall to the outer cooler wall (as I understand it).
Thanks for the info Martin.
This is ideal for me, I have a terrible gas problem, it really bothers my wife but I quite enjoy it,
Every Sunday it becomes a problem, especially if I eat Yorkshire puddings and Brussel sprouts. Hit and miss just like my gas problem. Every 1 in 10 leaves a stain.
You wanna get one installed on the back of your trousers , let them flow out even more naturally.
@@causetheplumstasteyum7848 I agree, just make sure the vent is pointing down.
An easier, and far less invasive option, would be to simply open a window at times. Most people who have any clue about the anatomy of buildings would just do that, and regardless of the season. This appears to be simple condensation. Your house also looks to be rendered from the outside, which quite often affects breathe-ability. Also, based on where you’re getting a small amount of damp in the corner of the ceiling, it could be a result of the insulation you have in your loft. I suspect it’s packed full of it and i bet if you removed some, it would also remedy the issue.
Thanks for the input RG.
He said "open the window" right at the beginning of the demo
Could too much insulation cause condensation on the attic ceiling? Hence then dripping onto my bedroom ceilings causing damp that black?
I also think the chap in the video has a hell a lot more experience than you.
@@slashingbison2503 huge assumption.
Don't suppose you could do a video fitting an air brick outside could you? I have a damp issue in the corner of a bedroom, looked outside and there is no vent at all, so looks I will need to add one from scratch. Many thanks.
I am a window fitter , i always tell customers to change the air in your house every day , air flow stops condensation and mould, always open your windows, when your at home
Good advice David.
Very well explained, this should sort out my damp north facing walls. Will look into getting these fitted, thanks buddy 👍
No problem 👍
@@dereton33 hello mate I have damp on a wall bow window level and just above floor level.. could you put a vent at that level? Its side wall as victorian
Can you put an air brick on the exterior side and drill through the holes to line up with the air brick?
Yes .
I have an extra Fan in my bathroom.
So cold air will come into the room from outside especially if it’s windy .
I am constantly treating mould in the corner above this fan . So l do not believe that putting a vent in that corner will eradicate the damp problem .
I use a dehumidifier during the winter this has stopped the mould . Each day the dehumidifier will extract 6 pints of water . And we get a small amount of vapour which forms overnight which we remove with a dry cloth .
Thanks David.
@@dereton33 only jus seen this video on damp sams channel 😎
I have an air vent in my bedroom and there's still damp present.
I also have an issue where everything in the room feels clammy. It's very frustrating, all of my clean clothes constantly smell musty too.
Some times you just have to resort to a humidifier.
Don't you mean a de-humidifier? A humidifier just adds moisture to the air.
@@dereton33 dehumidifier
I have this problem too. Windows open often, air vent does not appear to be blocked. I do need to fix the radiator and have bought a dehumidifier, not ideal but i live in rented room, limited what i can do.
have also been told to de-clutter, to allow more air flow in the room
Judging by the thumbnail I thought my man was fitting the worlds smallest radiator!
Now there`s an idea.
A nice natural way to cut mould spores down is mix Myrtle lemon oil tea tree Euculptus Cinnemon oil and get a powerful dehumidifier
ThePoisoned Goth or just get the dehumidifier lol
I love your easy to understand explanations. Thank you. Keep up the good work!
You're very welcome!
if you can afford it put a new window in with built in vents looks smart
You can fit trickle vents to an existing window..
I have an air vent in our small room but let’s in a breeze even with a hit and miss vent closed. The double glazed window has a trickle vent, will this be sufficient enough so I can block up the air vent?
Yes that will be fine
Hi thanks for the tip. Would you do this if the damp was at the bottom of the wall and if wall is wet?
Yes, absolutely
Hi Al great video, any ideas to prevent damp, condensation and mould in our ground floor maisonette? Thanks
A dehumidifier.
Wonderfully explained, easy and simple 👏
Thank you Mate 😊
No problem 👍
thanks,I have same issue fingers crossed mine clears up..great channel.. keep up the great work
Thanks Neil. Al.
Interesting. By installing that screen, arent you just venting the cavity in a cavity walled property. Personally there should be an air brick installed externally with a fitted sleeve to bridge the cavity and going up to your new vent screen. That way you get rid of any moisture in a room directly to the outside rather than it just dissipating in the cavity zone.
Thanks Wayne, I only know it works exactly as it is.
Wayne, I had a similar thought. The outside vent could have been sealed up due to the installation of cavity wall insulation. In which case, wouldn't it mean the cavity wall insulation is now exposed to the damp outside?
Hi buddy love your videos in our spare room there IS a very already however still got moisture in the corners (upper) and in.particular bottom corner x1m currently painting the room.out and the bottom in particular where moisture has wet paint as such I'm assuming I have a separate issue? The chimney is the opposite side to this semi detached
Thanks
Either knock a vent through or use a humidifier.
Great vid. I live in a house with cobbed walls so impractical to make a vent. Would putting a vent in the ceiling directly under the attic be a alternative?
Yes better than nothing.
Problem with them they let a lot of cold and noise in.
@@beppesapone1733 yes but I have a air vent in my bedroom. And even when closed. It still let's in cold. And terrible noise from the road and outside. That's why people cement over them. The condensation can be stopped with a humidifier
chris james *dehumidifier
@@juljasmaharchive yes I meant dehumidifier
Yes my son's bedroom freezing
Why not open window now and again
I have a timber framed house, some years ago I came into a bit of money and had all the windows replaced with triple glazing there were no vents built in the house was built in 2003 and I live on the NE coast of Ireland, there has been black sooty mould growing on the window frame and walls the interior pane gets fogged in the morning.
Regards
Ventilation or a humidifier.
@@dereton33 Dehumidifier lol
Hi Al, I seem to have a very smelly loft and it seems damp. Could it be that after fitting very good and insulated loft hatch I created the problem? I have a lot of stuff in the loft and it all stinks. Getting dehumidifier in Screwfix tomorrow. Could there also be a small leak from the roof? But I have the water tanks and central heating tank there too. Bit baffled! 🤔
Do check for roof leaks but I thing you could probably do with a couple of vented ridge tiles.
@@dereton33, Thanks Al, I have bought a dehumidifier and ozone www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B076GZ26ZF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to get rid of the smell. It seems it's not that bad but I also found this ua-cam.com/video/vDWzITdEt5o/v-deo.html Seems a simple and easy solution. Will be checking for loose tiles on the roof too.
@noxxi knox , thank you! I have bought these www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01BLCI14C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The house is 1907 Victorian. In 2018 unless the roof is vented there will be a problem. I think I caught it just in time 😉 👍
@noxxi knox, thanks for that. The roof has a black felt, not a membrane. I will check out your links👍👍👍
Hi, did you manage to fix this problem? Things in my loft smell too. When the suitcases come down for holidays they smell musty and have white mould on them.
Hi Al, once again, a very concise video. I'm currently converting a single skin brick garden workshop into a small photography studio. I've removed the ceiling to open up the roof space for extra height. It's now insulated with 50mm Kingspan. The internal walls are framed and insulated too. Upon checking it, the surface of the uppermost part of the Kingspan lining the roof has collected condensation. Should I be fitting these vents either side of the building (one high, one low) to allow air flow. I'm in central Scotland where its damp outside most of the time so I'm not too keen on introducing it to the inside of the building.
Your advice would be very valuable to my progress with the project.
Cheers
Hi Peggy, I do not think in your circumstances vents would be a good idea.A small dehumidifier might be a better option.
Problem is that the air is cold so why would you want to open these up? I'd rather just use windows are certain times of the day.
Cheers.
Hi thank you for sharing your knowledge, do you know if there is a lot of damp like this on the walls of the bottom flat (as in on the top of walls and ceiling), will it affect the flat above if the resident in the bottom flat doesn't do anything to fix the damp issue ?
It could spread up to the above flat.
@@dereton33 okay thanks
The jobs are so well explained, make you want try thr job yourself. Thank you and I will be subscribing to your channel. Thank you, a very likeable man.
Thanks for the sub!
I have a 3 bedroom house. We don't open any of our windows the whole week. We have no air vents whatsoever for the house. House completely tiled that adds more cold inside the house. Even if we do have to open the window we get caught at night for condensation or it will start in the mornings. Either times our walls start to perspire with drips of water running down the walls. Even our pillows get caught up with water from those dripping walls of moisture. Our last resort now is putting on the air vents. Like the smart idea of your air vents. Thankyou sir.
One other thing you can try if you can afford one is a dehumidifier.
thnak-you i will try this my sons bedroom ceiling all black hes on two outside walls as we live in bungalow its getting worse
Worked for us.
Really lovely man. Simple and easy explanation. It works great.
Thanks Edmond.
Hi dereton33, thanks for the video. What if there is no existing vent to unblock... do I need to add something to the outside? If I just drill the holes through the wall, then I've got an unsightly mess on the outside of the wall? And possibly water ingress? Thanks in advance for any advice.
You can get a vent kit which comes with a pipe to link the vents inside and out.
@@dereton33 thanks for the reply! :)
nock the old plaster off puton framework about inch think fill all voids with insulation plasterboard it skim it paint it and u wont see that problem ever again buy some insulation roll and make sure everythings covered in the loft :) air vent in uk will let moist air and cold into your house between october and march
yeah great, i'll just find a few thousand pounds out of nowhere...
why not just rebuild the house while you're at it too?
Thanks for the tips. But it is so difficult to avoid mould when you live in a small flat. we only have a small vent on top of the double glaze window within the window frame. the sliding one. The mould has stained the corner of the roof. I guess we just need to treat it and do the painting.
I have the exact same issue , live in a small flat, those " tickle vents " on the windows don't really do much at all barely even prevent condensation on the glass let alone preventing any damp/mould , I painted over mine with ronseal damp paint first , you might wanna look at getting a portable dehumidifier to put on your window ledge you can pick them up for about £30 on amazon / ebay and help a lot in small rooms , best of luck :)
Buy a dehumidifier from screwfix. 👍
A dehumidifier is your best option by far. Also buy some cheap humidity meters from Amazon and put one in each room. You need to keep relative humidity below 60%
Any tips on temp sealing an extractor fan during the winter ?
Sorry no.
Did you notice the room feeling colder after the vent was fitted?
No seems the same.
@@dereton33 no way. The room is definitely colder in Ireland and UK. I have blocked vents up during winter times because of this problem.
@@mririshman9631 I don't use my heating upstairs. It's to expensive. That's why mine is a damp. Il put paint over it haaa.. Il open my window more often in a dry day
PIV fan from loft sorted all our damp issues in our house
Thanks for the info.
Did that vent fix the condensation on the windows?
Yes sorted.
I've noticed every single time I'm having a shower there is an extreme amount of dampness in the shower.
That`s normal.
Open window and/or fit extractor fan we need to do this too
Lol
I live in a 1930's house so the bedrooms have chimney breasts although the fire places have been removed & filled in, can these vents be fitted to them instead of the outside walls?, & if so is it low down or near to the ceiling?.
Yes fit near the ceiling
Just looking at the outside vent, has it been put in upside down, surely water could run down the vanes and inside?
There is a massive overhang outside so no chance. Was fitted like that when the house was built in 1968.
Thank you for reply to this video still. I have a vent outside with bricks missing and then plasterboard on the wall inside. I have fitted a vent inside just like the one in the video bu the wall is still damp. Any ideas ?
See if you can fit another vent on the opposite wall to cause a changing airflow.
@@dereton33 thank you I will look into that
Cheers Al , hope this does the trick for you !
I hope so too
Our flat had a fireplace in the bedroom long before we moved in. The room feels cold and damp, more than the rest of the flat if the door is kept shut. Should there have been a vent put in where the fireplace was. Do you think this would make any difference? Thanks.
Certainly would cut a hole for a vent you can use one with a slide to open and shut it.
@@dereton33 Thank-you.
i have had black mould in my bedroom for many months even had the wall washed and papered but it still came back i had my loft insulated and the external wall insulated i allways have my top window open no matter how cold it is right now im decorating my bedroom ive rewashed the mould areas with polycell mould remover and i got a mould eraticor kit from my housing assc ohh and my outside walls have been sprayed with a water residant mix i still get condensation on my windows and i got 2 humidifers from pound shop which are filling up and a fan i got to help air the room i will update you in a few months let you know if mould has gone
ben lockhurst
The dehumidifiers should solve your problem mate. Get a low power version!
There lies your problem, insulating the walls actually traps condensation which then has nowhere to escape. Check out this site it helped me alot www.heritage-house.org/damp-and-condensation/managing-damp-in-old-buildings.html
Close the window you moron
Bit late perhaps to save you mr Ben, but google weather conditions in your town - if the humidity is above 60% then there's really no point in opening your windows, it will just make it worse, you are essentially forcing wet air inside.
Buy a small electric dehumidifier, the ones from poundland do nothing really.
The amount of water those will absorb is absolutely nothing in a room where you need to remove water from the air. Our Bedroom ALWAYS rises up to 80% humidity (and causes all kinds of problems), but we run a dehumidifier 24/7 to keep it around 40-50% and our problems have gone away.
Did the vent cure it?
Yes.
Looks like a black mould problem as well!
Wow I enjoyed watching this and your practical approach....!
Thank you.
Thanks. No problem
Getting the same problem in my small flat , should these remain open now in winter too ?
Yes especially now.
@@dereton33 Many thanks for the fast reply!
Hi there, we need to do exactly this but my wife is worried they were blocked up for the cavity wall insulation. Do you have any advice on how to handle this?
There is a vent tube you can get to pass through the wall.
That’s not damp but condensation
With little air circulation the warm air inside from breath over night etc or warm heating contacts the outside walls which are cold which forms water particles which left when dry out produce particles which then attracts more moisture and then can form damp in walls
Best option to keep all furniture off of walls and radiators ie beds
And crack the window open to let the room breathe 👍🏼
Thanks for the info.
@@dereton33 no problem
It’s a common problem people have with over furnishing rooms and stopping airflow
Good job tho 👍🏼👍🏼
Hi, just wondering we have a 100ml hole in our home in Ireland is that to big it’s so cold in my room’s can you help me out please thanks x
A hundred mm is finely
This a very common problem. But it is not damp it is condensation it is caused by the moisture in your breath hitting cold wall and turning from vapour to liquid then mould forms. Gentleman is correct ventilation is the answer. Just open windows .
Thanks.
Hello can you give me any ideas how to fix a dam problem. Our Internal wall is wet to the touch an wall paper pealing off . It is in the center of the house, so not has other walls around it. Thanks ?
Need more ventilation.
@@dereton33 thank you very much for reply you
i have a built in wardrobe with plasterboard walls. for air flow can i make two holes and put vent covers on? does one need to be high and one low? also what way should the vents face. thank you in advance
Yes two vents one high and one low for circulation. Vents facing down.
How come i have rising damp on internal walls of the old part of my house? extension on back to kitchen is fine. Solid floors put in some time ago in place of timber, re-plasterd dashed on outside looks like its even passed its life span, marble chips white background going black with dirt, original air bricks plastered over! why they did this I will never know but its maybe because they thought as the timber floors were taken out and replaced with solid that it would be ok,?
old part wasnt protected the same way the extension was. you will need to retrofit dry lining
There is speciel ones which you can stick on pvc windows or doors,with sponge inside.
Cheers.
No you need to cut a rectangular hole to match the dimensions of the vent. Just drilling a few holes won't be sufficient. Good video though.!
So this wouldn't work?
yes it will
William is right. A few holes is not enough. You need to cut a rectangular hole in the wall so the full length and width of the vent can recive air. Basically drilling only a few whole as the guy did in the video will only use about 20% of the vented area behind. The vents are designed to be a size suitable to allow air flow and need a hole behind them the size of the vent. There not designed to work as intended when you just drill a few holes.
Will this help stop black mould in corner of bedroom?
Yes.
@@dereton33 thanks ☺️
What is this type of vent called? I tried searching for it on Amazon and couldn't find it. Can you post a link?
It is called a MAP vent. Best bought in a hardware store, nothing on Amazon.
@@dereton33 thank you!
Does using dehumifers kill mold or stop new mold appearing I have mold in my bedroom and I use dehumifers also is salt effective and ok to use in dehumifers that have crystals in the top of dehumifer when Crystal's have run out I wanna save money and not have to keep buying more dehumifers when Crystal's have run out
They do help in drying the air out.
@@dereton33 are the small dehumifers ok to use in my bedroom I use the small dehumifers and do they get rid of rotting smell
Thanks for the video. You need the house to breathe, especially older houses.
Sure do.
That looks a nice area Al . How much are those houses to buy ? .
What do I do if there is no vent in the room? I mean I have a vent for warm air, but I don't have a vent that leads outside, I don't know how else to increase the air flow in my bedroom. It's also in the basement, and there's no particular corner that's damp, it's just very humid. It's like walking into a room full of soup, the rest of the house is far less humid.
You could run a flexi vent through the ceiling and out of room above.
Can I just drill some holes all the way through and then fit the internal plate ?? I don't have an existing vent on the outside
Yes if you want.
Should have turned the outside vent round the right way. That's going to cause ingress that way up.
I have no air vents in my flat they've all been filled in when I moved in I was healthy but now I have c. O. P. D., what should I do to help my health we have pigeons and seagulls too
You will just have to creak some windows open to simulate the same thing as vents.
@@dereton33 thank u sir bless you x