Hi. Can You please provide links for your beautiful background wallpaper? I think You were making a video about them some time ago - but can’t find it.
The decorative ones are these: geni.us/gikacousticsimp4 And then I have a bunch of these plain ones on the wall and a couple on the ceiling: geni.us/gikacoustics242 I talk about them a little more in this video: ua-cam.com/video/eYccZyARZuA/v-deo.html
Intellytech's always been a breath of fresh air. Some of the design implementations here are solid. I don't know much about the plastics used for the diffusers... but the inflatables always seem as though they'd be subject to tint shift as they age/offgas/oxidize. I wonder if there are any data on expected lifespan?
I’ll definitely be keeping an eye on my inflatables and checking over time to see! They are technically consumables I guess, so can be replaced easily, but I would expect to get a LOT of life out of each one.
That's definitely an option, although a 600x with a lantern (or a comparable parabolic softbox, since a lantern is a lot different in terms of how it outputs light) is going to weigh a little more (the AirHalo + it's frame is 13.5lbs). At the same time, this is only 8" deep, while a 600x + softbox is going to be 3-4' depending on the modifier, so the bigger difference is in the form factor and how the weight is distributed. I'm definitely not saying the AirHalo is better in every way, they both have their strengths and weaknesses, so you just have to buy whatever makes the most sense for the type of work you do.
This seems like the perfect travel light when flying but the 44lbs is too much. I can get 2-3 flexible LEDs with 600w of power in a bag for under 50lbs.
The case is too big to be a carryon, and not a checkable bag, so I wouldn't try. You'd definitely want to swap over to an injection molded case for that. It is still lighter than a 600x + 36" soft box. 2-3 smaller lights is always an option, but then you have 2-3 stands, and a few smaller, dimmer sources doesn't always work if you need a single, brighter one (and vice versa). There's always a different ideal for everyone. Out of curiosity, which 2 or 3 lights are you thinking of that would come in under 50lbs? Usually it's more efficient weight-wise to have a single 600W light Vs. separate smaller lights that add up to 600W since the controllers and other accessories for each stack up so quickly.
I own a lot of lights and I’ve been really happy with Falconeyes for the travel kit. 2 RX36TDX & 1 RX29. FE LEDs have been improved since 2017 when they originally came out. Brackets are better and softboxes fold down. Fixtures are light weight and work well on Matthews reverse stands. Sometimes I bring a Nanlite 300b or 500D (720Bs are too bulky). The Falconeyes can be combined to form a large key. I also have been playing with inflatable options like the Ulanzi 20W with built in battery or the Light Bank Mito Airtube which attaches to any Bowens COB dish.
The overhead setup I did was with the included gooseneck on the end of a boom arm with a sandbag hanging off the back. The light itself is only about 13.5lbs (with its frame), so it's very lightweight for how big it is, and easy to counterweight. The ball head holds strong, so I just made sure it was at the right angle before raising it up. The included cable is plenty long for me at 13', I keep most of it bungie'd together, but it could go up to 15' or so since there is some more cable coming out the light itself and if the controller is mounted 3-4' off the floor. The do have an optional 26' cable as well if you need to put it somewhere really far away. You could easily hang it by the X-frame too and not even connect the gooseneck part if you've got something to hook it on to. I hope that helps!
There's plenty of silver skirts out there, DOPChoice makes both both silver and black for a lot of lights for example. The skirt is also 2 separate pieces, and each piece is split in half, so you can fold/roll up a quarter of the skirt at a time. So, if you need to avoid spill in 1 direction only, you can attach only 1 piece and block 90-180 degrees, and the silver isn't going to spill any light in that direction. If you are wanting to block the light in all directions, I would just use the grid. The skirt is quite long, so even though the interior is silver, if you have all the pieces on and down, hardly any light comes out the end at unwanted angles. I can understand if you needed black interior, although it would be a pretty specific situation where the difference would be noticeable in my opinion. It would be interesting to see a direct comparison of the same skirt design with black Vs. silver, and perhaps they'll release an all black version if there's enough demand for it.
it's very useful to have silver when, for example, your doing a sit down interview with the light directly over talent, top down, helps dig into the eyes while still maintaining some of the cut etc... for sure sometimes black is better solution but i can always do that easily with duvatyne etc, but i think you are right having it reversible would be a big plus.
Have you tried any other inflatable lights? What did you think of them?
I like the Ulanzi UA20 with built in battery (Amazon), the light bank Mito tube (B&H) and the Godox F800r / 600BI inflatable modifier.
Hi. Can You please provide links for your beautiful background wallpaper? I think You were making a video about them some time ago - but can’t find it.
Oh baby this thing looks nice! Definitely going to check this out at NAB.
I hope you get a chance to check it out, let me know what you think if you remember when you go!
Can you tell me which sound panels in the background you're using? Thanks!
The decorative ones are these: geni.us/gikacousticsimp4
And then I have a bunch of these plain ones on the wall and a couple on the ceiling: geni.us/gikacoustics242
I talk about them a little more in this video: ua-cam.com/video/eYccZyARZuA/v-deo.html
Intellytech's always been a breath of fresh air. Some of the design implementations here are solid. I don't know much about the plastics used for the diffusers... but the inflatables always seem as though they'd be subject to tint shift as they age/offgas/oxidize. I wonder if there are any data on expected lifespan?
I’ll definitely be keeping an eye on my inflatables and checking over time to see! They are technically consumables I guess, so can be replaced easily, but I would expect to get a LOT of life out of each one.
At that weight and price you might as well get a huge lantern ball and call it a day
That's definitely an option, although a 600x with a lantern (or a comparable parabolic softbox, since a lantern is a lot different in terms of how it outputs light) is going to weigh a little more (the AirHalo + it's frame is 13.5lbs). At the same time, this is only 8" deep, while a 600x + softbox is going to be 3-4' depending on the modifier, so the bigger difference is in the form factor and how the weight is distributed.
I'm definitely not saying the AirHalo is better in every way, they both have their strengths and weaknesses, so you just have to buy whatever makes the most sense for the type of work you do.
This seems like the perfect travel light when flying but the 44lbs is too much. I can get 2-3 flexible LEDs with 600w of power in a bag for under 50lbs.
The case is too big to be a carryon, and not a checkable bag, so I wouldn't try. You'd definitely want to swap over to an injection molded case for that. It is still lighter than a 600x + 36" soft box.
2-3 smaller lights is always an option, but then you have 2-3 stands, and a few smaller, dimmer sources doesn't always work if you need a single, brighter one (and vice versa). There's always a different ideal for everyone.
Out of curiosity, which 2 or 3 lights are you thinking of that would come in under 50lbs? Usually it's more efficient weight-wise to have a single 600W light Vs. separate smaller lights that add up to 600W since the controllers and other accessories for each stack up so quickly.
I own a lot of lights and I’ve been really happy with Falconeyes for the travel kit. 2 RX36TDX & 1 RX29. FE LEDs have been improved since 2017 when they originally came out. Brackets are better and softboxes fold down. Fixtures are light weight and work well on Matthews reverse stands. Sometimes I bring a Nanlite 300b or 500D (720Bs are too bulky). The Falconeyes can be combined to form a large key. I also have been playing with inflatable options like the Ulanzi 20W with built in battery or the Light Bank Mito Airtube which attaches to any Bowens COB dish.
Hi what was it like rigging it overhead? Curious how the form factor, ball head, cable length factors into mounting and adjusting. Thank you!
The overhead setup I did was with the included gooseneck on the end of a boom arm with a sandbag hanging off the back. The light itself is only about 13.5lbs (with its frame), so it's very lightweight for how big it is, and easy to counterweight.
The ball head holds strong, so I just made sure it was at the right angle before raising it up. The included cable is plenty long for me at 13', I keep most of it bungie'd together, but it could go up to 15' or so since there is some more cable coming out the light itself and if the controller is mounted 3-4' off the floor. The do have an optional 26' cable as well if you need to put it somewhere really far away.
You could easily hang it by the X-frame too and not even connect the gooseneck part if you've got something to hook it on to.
I hope that helps!
Why has the skirt silver inside?? You use a skirt to block any spill light from the source. The silver even creates spill light...
There's plenty of silver skirts out there, DOPChoice makes both both silver and black for a lot of lights for example. The skirt is also 2 separate pieces, and each piece is split in half, so you can fold/roll up a quarter of the skirt at a time. So, if you need to avoid spill in 1 direction only, you can attach only 1 piece and block 90-180 degrees, and the silver isn't going to spill any light in that direction.
If you are wanting to block the light in all directions, I would just use the grid. The skirt is quite long, so even though the interior is silver, if you have all the pieces on and down, hardly any light comes out the end at unwanted angles. I can understand if you needed black interior, although it would be a pretty specific situation where the difference would be noticeable in my opinion.
It would be interesting to see a direct comparison of the same skirt design with black Vs. silver, and perhaps they'll release an all black version if there's enough demand for it.
@@NewLayer It should be made reversible and usable black side in. Easy enough to to DIY Velcro to the black side, I would imagine.
it's very useful to have silver when, for example, your doing a sit down interview with the light directly over talent, top down, helps dig into the eyes while still maintaining some of the cut etc... for sure sometimes black is better solution but i can always do that easily with duvatyne etc, but i think you are right having it reversible would be a big plus.