Something that works excellent for inhibiting rust on machined parts for short and long term storage is Caterpillar VCI ( Vapor Corrosion Inhibitor ) oil. You don't spray it directly on the parts but place it on cardboard on the bottom of the storage bag and it reacts with the air and fumes, coating the part(s) in oil externally and internally.
I've found that after oiling the block/heads if they're to sit for a spell. I wrap them in brown craft paper and place them into a cardboard box with at least three layer in the bottom. It allows the metal to breath and not cause condensation like plastic can.
440 is probably my 2nd Favorite motor behind the 426. The 440 can be built to generate an enormous amount of power and take the beating for a long time before needing any attention. Mopar family here Unc has a 69 Charger RT/SE 440 6 Pack Other Unc 70 GTX 440/6 and My 70 RoadRunner 440/6 with a 426 block being fought over between us all. Great video as always! Love Mopar builds!
folks at the machine shops appreciate you grind off the sharp points and edges that can send them running to a band aid rather than working. it also allows YOU to find the sand that's going to fall out, etc. there's no need to paint the inside of the block--you have to clean it well to stick, so that's going to catch it all, and the oil filter does its job. If you're doing a simple re-ring and bearing swap, run the engine with a capful of laundry detergent and it will act like a primitive washing machine on the cooling passages. For a crankcase from an engine that used non detergent oil back in the day, put some gas into it (not thru a valve cover opening, it will hurt the rubber valve seals but you should replace those anyway) and swing it around on an engine hoist chain. the crankcase probably had some gas go past the rings anyway, so you aren't adding anything that hasn't already been there before. Cut open the oil filter to find out what else has been circulating but wasn't in the oil pan (use a magnet there to find bearing tracings, etc). Oven degreaser or lye at the local auto wash can do a cheap cleaning, just wear gloves and eye protection.
This is going to be nice once it is all built and your attention to detail is awesome!!! I enjoy watching these builds and the machine shop do their work on these motors too! Thanks for sharing!!
Always enjoy your work ! I'm about to go in and finish up a 64 260 4 barrel V8 Falcon Sprint engine and then start assembly on 40 Willys 134 L head engine . Or maybe a 3.3 liter Daewoo diesel . Took in a 1933 Chevrolet 6 cylinder pickup engine a couple of days ago . You never know what's next .
Hey, Davin! Ironically I am watching Uncle Tony's Garage going over a 426 block right now and I noticed (because Tony mentioned it) that on his whoever had it before drilled drain holes beside the lifter sleeves to better oil the cam. If you are going to hang on to your block for a few days...you might think about borrowing that idea. I know he watches the Hagerty Redline Rebuild Channel and could be a great contact on All Things Mopar. (FYI)
goingthrough your 440 posts no matter how you clean hot tank, shot blast, shake and bake bottom tap all the holes afterward as crap comes loose, re drill all the oil holes I have found mis drilled holes and bad threads, broken studs I use glyptol inside the motor do not use rutoleum i check the wear patterns on the bearings, cambearings pressure oil the thrust especially if clutch on small blocks SBC SBF I pressure test use the smallest overbore possible chk ring availability first do not use wd 40 cheers
Save the "do not eat" packets from electronics and shoes and throw 3-4 in with parts to absorb moisture during storage. You can dry the packs out in the microwave.
@@stevewhittier3170 Both, belt and suspenders. Its hard to oil inside the water passages and oil galleys etc. You will also get surface rust in there. The silica gel baggies lower the humidity to prevent this rust. Throw then into the drawers of your tool box as well if you live in an area where tools rust.
@@notsofresh8563 yup, I've put silica packs in all of my tool boxes. I'm in Florida & the moisture can cause mold on rubber parts on tools & it causes the rubber to disintegrate.
man, i would have looked to have seen the process for powder coating a block since it will be colored. to prevent the block from rusting, i used motorcycle chain wax. it sprays on and coagulates to a thin, waxy film. 💪
Я из России. Смотрю давно и с удовольствием. Ничего не понимаю на английском языке)) Но хорошо понимаю механическую часть. Продолжайте делать хорошее дело и снимать видео на радость своим подписчикам. С уважением из России
For some reason that Silver Stallion Penetrating Oil DOES NOT come up in a search. Can you please provide a link to purchase or the actual manufacturer of the brand? Maybe I’m the only one that is interested but in case anyone else is - we will know how to get some. Thanks
I've done some cleaning of casting flash on VW's and wondered if anyone else does it or am I just going overboard. Turns out, I could do more, good to know! Always take the Ford! .
Done that myself many times: you get the thing you're doing, done, all wrapped up, you stand back...and then you see the floor! 😑 You know it isn't going to clean itself, so...
IDNAU-But 0.060 oversize is way beyond Chrysler's recommendations....Anything 0.030 over should be sonic tested for wall thickness, especially if you are going to throw money at it....
I appreciate that Davin removes those casting seam lines.
My family had a 10 year old Dodge 360 that dropped a piece of casting flash at 10,000 miles. It annihilated the rear main bearing.
The machines shop is my favorite part of all of this. I want more.
Something that works excellent for inhibiting rust on machined parts for short and long term storage is Caterpillar VCI ( Vapor Corrosion Inhibitor ) oil. You don't spray it directly on the parts but place it on cardboard on the bottom of the storage bag and it reacts with the air and fumes, coating the part(s) in oil externally and internally.
Your video is so cool! I am one of your fans in Korea. I always cheer for you. Stay healthy!
I got my work done on Saturday, swapping out the motor in my
77 Chevy G20 Van, by myself. Now just need to hook everything up.
I've found that after oiling the block/heads if they're to sit for a spell. I wrap them in brown craft paper and place them into a cardboard box with at least three layer in the bottom. It allows the metal to breath and not cause condensation like plastic can.
440 is probably my 2nd Favorite motor behind the 426. The 440 can be built to generate an enormous amount of power and take the beating for a long time before needing any attention. Mopar family here Unc has a 69 Charger RT/SE 440 6 Pack Other Unc 70 GTX 440/6 and My 70 RoadRunner 440/6 with a 426 block being fought over between us all. Great video as always! Love Mopar builds!
WOW! I did not expect those lifter valley pebbles!
The 440 mopar is an excellent engine 👍🏻. Can’t wait to see the dyno numbers.
folks at the machine shops appreciate you grind off the sharp points and edges that can send them running to a band aid rather than working. it also allows YOU to find the sand that's going to fall out, etc. there's no need to paint the inside of the block--you have to clean it well to stick, so that's going to catch it all, and the oil filter does its job.
If you're doing a simple re-ring and bearing swap, run the engine with a capful of laundry detergent and it will act like a primitive washing machine on the cooling passages. For a crankcase from an engine that used non detergent oil back in the day, put some gas into it (not thru a valve cover opening, it will hurt the rubber valve seals but you should replace those anyway) and swing it around on an engine hoist chain. the crankcase probably had some gas go past the rings anyway, so you aren't adding anything that hasn't already been there before. Cut open the oil filter to find out what else has been circulating but wasn't in the oil pan (use a magnet there to find bearing tracings, etc). Oven degreaser or lye at the local auto wash can do a cheap cleaning, just wear gloves and eye protection.
This is going to be nice once it is all built and your attention to detail is awesome!!! I enjoy watching these builds and the machine shop do their work on these motors too! Thanks for sharing!!
The block looks spanking new now. 😎👍🇨🇦
Muy buen proyecto!!!! Muero de ganas de verlo en un ovalo de tierra a ese auto. Saludos desde argentina
new slowmo camera is looking super slick
i really enjoyed the block cleaning and deburring. This is just the kind of stuff i like to look at but am way too lazy to do myself ;)
Great builder great explanation. This what doing it right looks like.
Always glad to see Davin! Good video. Take care man!
Love the safety squint!!
Always enjoy your work ! I'm about to go in and finish up a 64 260 4 barrel V8 Falcon Sprint engine and then start assembly on 40 Willys 134 L head engine . Or maybe a 3.3 liter Daewoo diesel . Took in a 1933 Chevrolet 6 cylinder pickup engine a couple of days ago . You never know what's next .
Watching all the cast iron boogers getting cleaned up is oddly satisfying 😀
Well done chief!
Thanks for the inspiration and keep on trucking!
Hey, Davin! Ironically I am watching Uncle Tony's Garage going over a 426 block right now and I noticed (because Tony mentioned it) that on his whoever had it before drilled drain holes beside the lifter sleeves to better oil the cam.
If you are going to hang on to your block for a few days...you might think about borrowing that idea. I know he watches the Hagerty Redline Rebuild Channel and could be a great contact on All Things Mopar. (FYI)
Awesome, Thanks for sharing Davin👍
GREAT JOB, GREAT VIDEO, BACK TO WORK...
well done Davin .
How about those missmatch heads, have you made any decision about using those?
That engine block looks good after all the work:)
all those little edges do rust up cause the paint ant get in the pits or shrinks in them. you got a point there.
Great job Davin 👍 💯
goingthrough your 440 posts no matter how you clean hot tank, shot blast, shake and bake
bottom tap all the holes afterward as crap comes loose, re drill all the oil holes I have found mis drilled holes and bad threads, broken studs
I use glyptol inside the motor do not use rutoleum i
check the wear patterns on the bearings, cambearings pressure oil the thrust especially if clutch
on small blocks SBC SBF I pressure test
use the smallest overbore possible chk ring availability first
do not use wd 40
cheers
Нравится смотреть как вы делаете свою работу👍. Россия передаёт вам привет!
Save the "do not eat" packets from electronics and shoes and throw 3-4 in with parts to absorb moisture during storage. You can dry the packs out in the microwave.
Instead of, or in conjunction with oiling?
@@stevewhittier3170 Both, belt and suspenders. Its hard to oil inside the water passages and oil galleys etc. You will also get surface rust in there. The silica gel baggies lower the humidity to prevent this rust. Throw then into the drawers of your tool box as well if you live in an area where tools rust.
@@notsofresh8563 yup, I've put silica packs in all of my tool boxes. I'm in Florida & the moisture can cause mold on rubber parts on tools & it causes the rubber to disintegrate.
Makes me wanna rip my 318 out and work on it every single time I watch one of these vids! Great work as always!
Davin's attention to these sorts of tiny details is why I follow Hagerty.
LPS is the BEST anti rust/corrosion spray!
Unless you live in the desert....... Woooohooo Arizona for the win!
man, i would have looked to have seen the process for powder coating a block since it will be colored. to prevent the block from rusting, i used motorcycle chain wax. it sprays on and coagulates to a thin, waxy film. 💪
Really interesting. If decided to rebuild this engine in a few years would it go through the same regime?
I need that lathe in my life.
Я из России. Смотрю давно и с удовольствием. Ничего не понимаю на английском языке)) Но хорошо понимаю механическую часть. Продолжайте делать хорошее дело и снимать видео на радость своим подписчикам. С уважением из России
Davin, I can't believe you actually said 'fish oil' stuff.
I like you HAGERTY. from IRAN. 👍👍👍
That was a perfect german pronounciation of "Schmutz"... very impressive.
For some reason that Silver Stallion Penetrating Oil DOES NOT come up in a search.
Can you please provide a link to purchase or the actual manufacturer of the brand?
Maybe I’m the only one that is interested but in case anyone else is - we will know how to get some.
Thanks
Mantap 👍 salam dari Indonesia
I've done some cleaning of casting flash on VW's and wondered if anyone else does it or am I just going overboard. Turns out, I could do more, good to know!
Always take the Ford!
.
What happened to this build guys? 7 months?
Ah man, they made Thirlbys turn off the Linkin Park while filming :P
Copy right issues
Excelente ✌️😶🇦🇷👏👏
I would be mad about that dude scraping my tailgate with the block hah
Yeah. That really pissed me off! I wouldn’t be backing my truck in there!
Good, relative to the video
Ok, it's been a year, what's going on with the 440?????
Is this the last update on the 440? What happened?
You forgot to mention they WILL cut the daylights out of you
I was taught stress bearing welds should never be ground down. Are you not running the risk of weakening the casing by removing the seams?
Is that part of the block hallow?
Something tells me Davin is paid by the hour...
Just kidding! I like a smooth block as well.
Why don't you guys collaborate with Uncle Tony's Garage for assembling the 440?
Do you ever have your stuff pressure tested??
I just woke up. I passed out earlier today because I took a shot every time he said "relative". Man I have a head ache.
I wish I was in America and I could bring my car to you to upgrade. I like american muscle💕👍👌
Going to a different workshop? The cynic in me wonders if the Straight 8 debacle has had an influence, or if it's already grenaded?
Sounds like I missed a vid or 2 on that
@@MrTheHillfolk Start with the comments section of the one with the "Shizzlesticks" logo plastered over it.
DiPsMedia needs help.
@@PiDsPagePrototypes
I'll get there soon , watching a freebie roadkill garage 😁
Didnt the guy say there was a Holman Moody or Roush engine in it?
Dont forget every hundred pounds is a.10th of a second in quarter mile.Long way to go.
This engine is not for drag racing.
Where do you buy Silver Stallion? Can’t find it anywhere online.
It would appear Davin buys his yarmulkes from the big and tall store lol
😎👍
around here you can watch bare metal rust before your eyes
What no glypotol/red varnish in the valley area now
It’s the best time
are there any plans collaborating with Powernation on a project car?
I thought the blasting would remove those “dingles”??
How do you cope with heat distortion and bearing surfaces with that process?
They dont sandblast the block, its shotpeened with small steel balls......
Интересно было увидеть как бы вы сделали ZMZ-511🤔
Wowๆ
Have you tried wcp cotting
Done that myself many times: you get the thing you're doing, done, all wrapped up, you stand back...and then you see the floor! 😑 You know it isn't going to clean itself, so...
👍
Get a big tub of vinegar and immerse your block in it...no rust ever, albeit very smelly!
If I give you my 440 can you do the same thing to it ? hahaha !
Привет. Возьмите меня на работу к себе))))
" How about we take the Ford ? how does the sound?" .... Sounds like a G.D. American
Hey man.
CAN YOU REBUILD A 5.9 CUMMINS??
Best thing to do to a 440 is put a hemi oil pickup in it....
Me gustaria enviarles el motor de mi 504 83... Pero tengo que venderlo para pagar un trabajo asi jaja
Try shake n bake
Здравствуйте!!!!
Your videos are becoming more trivial and insignificant by the day.
Hagiddy
chip, chip oops!
Hello
Hummm, man of a few words ! 🤣👍
عربي
IDNAU-But 0.060 oversize is way beyond Chrysler's recommendations....Anything 0.030 over should be sonic tested for
wall thickness, especially if you are going to throw money at it....