I've had this saw for a while now...3/8 P chain. I put an Oregon bar w/ a 3/8 .050 55 chain on mine along with a side adjustment and a steel bucking claw and it's a little beast. We bought 12 acres of property and I've cut a shit ton of cedar trees down with mine. And it will cut 8-10" (and bigger) trees all day with no effort. The smaller chain is a weak point...go to the bigger Oregon bar and chain and watch the chips fly. You'll be surprised what this little saw will do. I keep my saws clean, maintained & with a sharp chain and no issues. Actually wanted to go with a bigger pro saw but just can't justify it right now with the way this saw is running. FWIW...just my opinion from running this guy for a while.
I just watched another review of a guy cutting 20'' tree, where he had to cut either side of it. he just said he kept the chain sharp(no bigger bar or different chain). But I could tell he was pushing it had with that. your idea of putting a bigger bar/chain on it sounds good. Stihl always designs their products to be able to put bigger things on them and still run like a dream
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
I've had one of these saws for 15 years. I've cut many 18 inch trees easily. I sharpen it frequently, takes about five minutes. I also have an 029 farm boss but it kills my back. Btw your chain is way too loose.
I have this saw and love it. I have owned bigger saws (professional) over the years, but my lower back is shot, so I bought the MS170. Tips for the amateur: make sure it's warmed up before starting to cut, keep it sharp, do not "lay on it" (force it).........go to a larger saw if you want to cut faster, have it "screaming" before you engage the wood and limbs. I wish that I would have bought one years ago. Play safe guys :)
Idle is set too high, chain is too loose, and to say this saw won't cut 6-8" logs all day is ridiculous. 6-8" logs is exactly what a small saw like this is made for. If you said it won't cut 12-14" logs all day then you would be partially correct. It will cut 12-14" logs all day but it will take forever and is outside of what it was designed for. But 6-8"? Seriously? If your 170 can't cut a 6" log then your chain sharpening skills need to be upgraded substantially.
Are you kidding. That twig you pointed out I kick those in half! You can cut anything you want with that saw, and that’s what it was made for. Whatever you want to cut. Just may take longer.
Agreed, my buddy's MS170 and my MS171 will cut 6" to 8" all day long. I cut down, limb and junk all my 6" to 10" firewood with my saw. I chose the MS171 because it was light and cheap. Regardless of what it was made for, it will cut some large trees. I've been 2 years with the original chain and should have no trouble getting another 2 tears according to the sharpening limit marks.
I've had a 170 for nearly 10 years. It is my only saw and has cut down 20" diameter trees. I have cut all day, every day, for a fortnight. It has logged, snedded and felled. The small chain is great, especially with full chisel cutters, agressive and fast. The chains last until there is nothing left to sharpen. All in all a great little saw that shows no sign of giving up yet, and so much easier to use all day than a 260 sized machine. As for the criticism of the on/off/choke lever......cobblers man. It is the same as all the Stihl saws I've ever used. Try using the saw to it's full potential and you will see what it really can do. I use cheapo oils and fuel with mine, never a problem. Poor review tbh.
It can cut it, but that's not what it's meant to do. If you have one or two such logs, you're fine. If you're cutting them all day, you're going to have a bad time.
Good review but wow you are underrating this saw. I understand it's not meant for long term bigger stuff but it will easily cut 6"-8" logs for homeowner use. Easily!
This guy has no idea what these saws are capable of. As with all saws, if you keep it in tip top condition it’ll perform the tasks set within reason. Common sense prevails.
I have this saw. Great saw but it struggles to cut anything larger than 8 inches in diameter even with the mods I've done. It's only 30cc. My bigger saw is a 46cc 20" bar and it cuts larger diameter logs like warm butter.
I have cut over 50 full cords with my MS181 I sharpen my chain 1 stroke every tank full of fuel with a Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener. I can cut over a Rick of wood on a tankful of fuel in less than 35 minutes. I cut small stuff big stuff whatever. I cut 12" to 18" all the time. I have even cut down a Elm that was 28" diameter. Took me 1 tank of fuel and about 30 minutes to cut up the main trunk down both sides. Hold it wide open and let the sharp chain do the work, don't force the saw and bog it down. The chains hold up well and make a smaller 2hp saw cut like it has 3hp. The small Stihl chainsaws are the best for cutting firewood and if you can't cut it with a MS170 to a MS181 with a 16" bar you have a dull chain or your rakers are too high, not a lack of power.
A chainsaw is a saw !!! It will cut anything you want... it's the operator that pinches the chain and bar ... Also it's a picco chain for the people who probably shouldn't own a chainsaw to begin with!!! It's designed not to kick back and split your forehead to your asshole !!!
THE POSITION (HALF CHOKE OR IDLE AS YOU CALL IT) STARTS THE SAW WAY TOO FAST FULL BORE ON COLD MOTOR! VERY BAD! JUST GO DIRECTLY FROM FULL CHOKE RESPONSE TO RUN!
Wrong …. you put the choke on as described …. you pull until saw coughs and almost starts. You then move control up to warm position, then pull again and start the saw. You don't start it in the choke position!
The MS 170 is not a bad residential saw, if you know that your getting into. First off, 43 gauge chain, so although it will cut fast since it taking a thinner bite, but it means a lot more chain sharping to keep the chain sharp as well. Next, Stihl changed out the cranks side seals on the new 170's to single seals lips, verses the old double lip seals of the older 170's. So plan on having to change the single side seals out to double seal lips by the end of the first year, if not sooner. Hence when the seals leak, your sucking in a lot more air, which cause the saw to run too lean, and will burn it up (the piston and the cylinder scored to hell). The problem is compounded by the fact that the carb is not adjustable on the unit. There is the TW215 carb mode so you can easily adjusted the carb without having to pull it apart to get at the jets, but really not needed so long as you keep in mind the side crank seal problem to begin that needs to be addressed ASAP so the carb stays tuned correctly isntead. Note, since the seal cavities are part of the molding of the case, when you split the case, a touch of RTC as the seal areas of the crank area channel goes a long was to prevent seals from leaking on the outer edges as well. Again, if the crank seals start to leak, your going to be sucking in more air into the cylinder, going to cause the saw to run lean, and going to burn up the pistol and cylinder, hence the piston and cylinder burnt to hell on the exhaust side. Lastly, although the chain pump system is not bad, there is a problem with the bar chain oiler tube that will be leak central by the the start of year two. To conclude, not a bad residential saw for light year, and at the end of year one if only used for light use, pull the saw apart to go after the key parts. Note, if the saw is going to be a work horse, change out the side seals from the start. Note sure why they when to single lips seals, but my guess is to have the saw burn up faster, with most owners just opting to buy a new for $170 again isntead. Hence first year service for light use, replace the single lip crank seals with the older double lips seals (aftermarket if needed), and use a light coat of RTV on the out sides of the seals to the crank case as well. On the new chain bar oiler tube that you will replace since the old one will be leaking by that point, use Dielectrical/silicone gears on the outside of the tubing parts, since it will slow the rubber down from drying out to cause the bar oil leaks fro the tank seal area, and the channel for the pump. Also, when you go to grease the crank to the seals to put the new double sided seals on the crank sides, use some Dielectrical/silicone on the seal/cranks surfaces as well. Hence standard grease is going to cause problems with the seal lips after time ,while silicone grease will not cause harm to the seals isntead. Now so long as you clean the saw enough to prevent the saw dust build up from over heating it, keep the spark arrestor, spark plug and air filter clean, chain sharp, should not have problem with the saw for a couple more years. Hence in a few years, will be time to change the bar pump on the unit, change the oiler tube again, and address an other problems like maybe a bar is it worn out come that time as well. Note, not a big fan of the 50 gauge bar and chain on the say, since it really does not have the power to make bigger cuts on thicker tree's that the saw was disigned for to begin with. Hence if you need to run a 20" bar, then get a saw with the needed power to run that size bar without problem isntead. Once last thing, and you can pick up after market top end kits for a ms170 (turns it into a 180 motor) for around $40, and with new seals, and comes to about $50 in the end. I bring this up, since if you are looking at a used MS170 for sale, pull the muffler to take a look at the piston through the exhaust port for any scaring. Hence bank that someone burnt the saw up by year two, needs a new top end and seal kit, making the saw worth about $60 if all the other parts are still good instead (since you can buy a brand new MS170 for under $180 brand new.
D Baker I rewrote a key sentence about halfway through your screed: 'Note sure why they when to single lips seals, but my guess is to have the saw burn up faster, with most owners finding a Bluebird Brand saw bought online for $69 to be as good a solution in their need category, and never buying another German built product.'
My wife just bought me one of these today. I haven't even ran it yet, so it's good to know about the seal. Do you have to split the case to do replace it?
be careful with everythng man anyone that works at a stihl dealership can look at that serial number then see who its registered to then see all your personal info be safe out there
Just got this saw today. Cut 8" logs like a hot knife through butter. Have a poulan 62cc saw and it doesn't seem to have as much power or cut as good as this little 30cc saw. It's great dont know why this guy thinks you can only cut twigs with it.
@@Smightification Since this is NOT your video and YOU did NOT say that, why are you replying to my comments? Maybe you should get a saw with a 60" bar to cut a 20" log.! Sorry, I do not have time to spend with you. Every second I have left on this earth is valuable to my and you are a total waste of my valuable time.
That scared me a bit too until I found guys that had cut 20" or more in two cuts. Not my cup of tea but it appears to handle 8", maybe 10" with no problem.
I have a GREAT idea! Since you think this saw is only good for about a four inch log, lets take the 16" bar off and put a four inch bar and chain on it. THERE FRIXED TO PERFECTION?
This is a stihl ms170 I've never had any issue cutting ANYTHING. I cut my years fire wood plus several other people's with it every year. I've worked with pro loggers that only go as high as 300 series. Don't over think it. Cut safe and cut to your own skill level. This saw can do it all.
It comes off half choke by itself once you rev it up. Doesn't matter if you like it or not, that's the way it was designed to work. Nobody else complains about it on any other saw, and many other saws are the same way. You're trying to give an honest review but you lack the knowledge to do it. BTW, as pointed out already, your carb is not properly adjusted and your chain is dangerously loose. Also, up your sharpening skills; compare a chain you sharpened to either a new one or one that was professionally sharpened.
limbing saw my hairy white ass...... 10 years of 5 to 6 cord of fire wood a year plus hundreds of hours of everything from broken telephone pole cutting to rough lumber/timber cutting and it's just had the usual bar and chain replacements. As far as the sharp chain is concerned that's chainsaw 101 for any chainsaw. I also have the MS440 and the MS170 is what I grab 90% of the time for it's compactness, weight and ability for it's size.
Must be your first Stihl.. they all have the single operation lever to allow one handed use. I’ve used my 170 to cut firewood for years and it still works great. I have a few different pro saws but always find myself reaching for the small MS170 homeowner saw because it’s light and nimble. Might take a few more seconds per cut but big deal.
I bought my ms 170 12 years ago and I will cut anything even big trees this saw was intended for ocasional use like you said in the video. But I will say that this saw has been put threw alot with me I have cut close to 40 cords of wood with only this saw and still runs good. All you have to do is keep good fuel and oil and maintain the saw. And I do have bigger saws but I like this one the most
+Andrew Tiefry you sound like you know what your doing and that's a big difference in owning this saw. Keep the Chain sharp and it will cut bigger stuff fine.but most people have no idea how to maintain and keep a chain sharp and wanna cut 14-18 inch round trees all day.
A quick tip I got from a very experienced woodsman...you don't ever want to see sawdust coming out the back if the saw, you want large chips. I'm sure this is common sense to most but I'll bet some of you out there don't realize your chain is dull. When sharp, these saws will cut some very large logs and will do it all day long without killing your back.
When I bought my MS170 four years ago, the german dealer put it together and showed me how the saw is meant to be started: Activate the chain brake, this means push big black front security lever in direction of the blade. Put the saw on the ground, right foot goes into the handle, left hand holds the handle. Press the two security things on the handle with your right hand, so you are able to put the little black lever down to the bottom, complete, this is the cold start position. Now drag two to five times, till it fires shortly, but it is NOT meant to be running! No put the black lever one position higher, start the saw. As soon as it has started, push the bottom thing on the handle, then the little black lever goes automatically higher in normal position, and the saw has standby gas, lower rpm (rotations per minute). Be carefull, do everything on your own risk. Really great saw by the way, it can do much more than I expected, it goes very well for garden and around the house. It eats bigger trees too, but if you do bigger trees a lot you need ... guess it ... a bigger saw :)
Horst Norst. Thanks for telling us how to start this chainsaw. I have owned a 170 for a few years. I bought it for firewood, that's how these saws are sold here. When I first tried to start it that was the time I needed to read your post. But after a couple of days work it was a total jack russell. It's a pruning saw for big shrubs, a sweet and nimble limbing saw, a carving saw for rotten patches of apple tree trunk, a fine carpentry tool where a router takes too long to set up, essential field-fencer's companion, the quickest way to get a rough plywood panel out of an 8x4, climbing saw at a pinch, and the list goes on. I use it as often in my business as all the rest of my saws combined, love them tho I do, even my 116Si with original 20" bar and a beautiful baritone voice. The stihl's only fault, it's a 111dB soprano.
Great review well thought out with actual time on this saw. As of the choke system on this saw it is a lot of steps to start because it doesn't have a primer bulb BUT if you understand small engines it is a great setup. With the engine being as small as it is the throttle butterfly is in front of the choke so by holding the throttle to set the choke allows for more vacuum to get the fuel up from the tank through the carb to the engine. Now when the engine pops the engine is over loaded with fuel so having to push the choke to 2nd position holds the throttle open so when it starts it will burn off unnecessary fuel by revving up and leaning out and by popping the throttle it will release the choke system and it will let it idle down and run properly.
This saw, like all Stihls in this genre, are designed to allow you single handed operation of the the throttle, choke and kill switch. Other saws don't offer that convenience, therefore, depending on the design can compromise safety. The Stihl saws allow you to start the saw, eliminate the primer and allow you to simply flick the switch with your thumb while maintaining control of the throttle and the body of the saw via the right hand (primary control hand of all saws). I've had this saw for 2 years and I've cut some gnarly big stuff with it. I've been able to cut with guys that have much more expensive Husqvarnas, Efcos and Jonsereds. I'm not saying that it cuts like a professional saw, but I've had many guys sitting and working on their $600+ saws while I'm cutting away maintenance free. Just watch the chain oil. Run it full bore in front of a piece of wood or the ground and make sure visible oil spray is present. If not, the little tube from the oil reservoir may have become clogged. And, I have cut many, many 20+ plus inch logs with this saw...you just have to work it through from both sides. As far as cutting 8" stuff all day, that's a walk in the park for this saw if the operator is capable. I cut a half ton today while also clearing limbs and picking olives.
Exactly my saying! Stihl saws are in this point perfect! Just single hand operation not like other saws with switches, knobs, primers ... that's bullshit! Very nice saw and of course that MS 170 will cut easily bigger logs.
Have owned a still ms170c 16" bar chain saw for 15 + years. Used it to cut double trailer loads of oak, maple and ash. Although I bought it for limbing, it soon replaced my larger saw due to its light Weight and ease of use. Had it going this week to help a friend who lost 18 trees in a windstorm. Yes it will cut 6,8,and 10 inch logs all day long and then some. Has been sitting for 6 months since last used and started in 3-4 pulls! Best honest review I can give you. If I haven't cut 60 to 80 bush cords with this gem then I've underestimated how many cords I've cut.
It’s impossible to beat this saw in weight, price,mileage,performance, reliability…there’s only one serious choice in the 30cc category and this is it. Well done review!
You can cut a LOT of wood with a 170. I have a 170, 261, and a 362. I cut 22-25 loads of wood a year. The big saws stay in the truck until I need them. My 170 has a 14" bar, it will easily cut 10-12" stuff. If you have any experience with chainsaws you should know you can change that chain and bar to a .050 chain and get much better performance out of it.
I picked up an MS170 for limbing, as you stated, but I insisted on the dealer upgrading to the .050-3/8 bar and chain. Mainly for durability and longevity of the chain sharpness. I've had mine going on three years and for a lesser expensive Stihl home owner saw, it does its job very well. Great job with the review. Oh...a slight muffler mod and adjustable carb replacement can make the saw more versatile. But for its intended use, I have left well enough alone with just the upgraded bar and am as pleased as you are with the saw as a whole. Cheers!! Zip~
yeah like i said great saw but really meant for smaller stuff. it will do it but compared to the bigger saws its not worth it. i should have done what you did with the upgraded chain.
The .050 bar and chain is a sound investment, just for the rigidity factor of both bar and chain. The sprocket doesn't need replaced and the .004 increase in bar width doesn't effect anything as far as fitment goes. Cheers! Zip~
One in the same IBoosted. The bar is thicker and the .004" increase is the width of the groove the chain rides in as as well as the width of the sprocket nose is a little heartier. Ultimately, I would like a 16" Stihl ES Bar, but if you can find one, they're around $100. The ES bars are one solid piece of steel machined with a replaceable sprocket nose where the Standard Rollamatic E bar is a three piece laminated construction. Both are good, the ES is just more durable and will last a lot longer. Hope this answers your question. Zip~
I have cut mine using my MS180c a little more horses that does cut enough wood to keep ya warm and then some . I have had mine for 4 years . That dinky tree is nothing for me that's bigger than the tree he's talking about sry but the 180c will do better over all . I am not from Ky but trust me I have used it in -2 & - 18 below zero weather last year no problems at all lol yeah . 😎
Yep as a newbie I attempted to cut and remove a stump blunt the chain in less than a minute, however chains are cheap so I purchased 4 . For spare s . And sharpen the blunt one exactly cuts small stuff thank you buddy
The comments are a better review than the review. Here's a great hint too clean the exhaust screen if you want the saw to run good . Found this out the hard way.
Not true at all. I have owned a ms170 for 6 years and I use it hard. I will drop a tree with my husqvarna rancher and limb the trunk and cut it up with my 170, up to 24".Wow, the chain will stay sharp if you don't cut junk! I will cut all day with no issues with the chain getting dull. I never leave negative comments because I know these guys usually are trying to make a living but this guy has absolutely no idea what he is talking about! The MS170 is a great overall saw.
My craftsman barley lasted 2 months 😭I'm warning you don't waste your money on a cheap brand. If your looking for a saw definitely get a Stihl, Husqvarna or an Echo.
You've said it will not cut fire wood all day long.. right? You are kidding right? It might be a small chainsaw.. but if you know how to cut with it.. it will cut all day long...with no problem.. how do i know? I have the exact same chainsaw from stihl..and it just keep runing. ofcourse with proper mentenance and sharp chain.
The information about the choke operation was very good, but my word, you repeated it so many times it became boring! Finally when you started up the unit it all made sense. Talk, but once you say something, DON'T keep on repeating it.
I appreciate your review. I was thinking about getting this for my dad as his father's day gift but wasn't sure. I have an ms 361 with 20" bar and it's a beast. It does whatever I need it to do but it gets heavy after a while. Now that my dad's getting ready to retire I'll finally have someone out there helping me clearing pathways and areas for our homes. It's 30 acres of Oak trees. There's some good size trees out there which is why I got the 361. My dad's got a bad shoulder and from what I saw on your review the 170 will be perfect for him. I'll do the cutting he can do the trimming. Thank you for your review
I have an MS170 for about 4 years now. A great lightweight saw for light duty work if you like Stihl's. I agree with the reviewer - it's not for bucking big wood. The bar gets so hot the oil smokes. Within it's limitations it's a capable machine.
They have a full choke (all the way down), and a half choke setting (next one up) it shouldn’t ever start on full choke. You should be watching a how-to video instead of making your own review video
Bought my 170 brand new 16 inch bar switched out for 12 in bar cut a lot better use it for small cutting de lemming and small firewood cut up you got to know the saws limitation I've had no problems with the saw whatsoever had mine for 2 years
it's a piece of shit. brand new saw owned for 2 months and used for 3 hours total had the housing split apart. it split right at the screw where the bottom of the handle bolts through the ridiculously thin plastic. Stihl of course wouldn't warranty it. dropped the piece of shit off at their regional HQ and bought an Echo, will NEVER own another Stihl
Sounds like you bought the wrong saw. If you want a pull choke buy a pull choke saw and quit bitching about how this one is made. I have two Stihl saws that operate the same way. I like them. If you feel it is two small then buy a larger one. This one works great for me. I cut 8-10 in trees with it.
very good description thanks. btw i'm so thankfull that you tell that the starting button is a crazy thing! i have Echo, Shindaiwa saws and before you start you pull the choke and as soosn as the motor run you push it down and start again. why Sthill doesn't go like that is a mytery for me
Ive worm out two ms 170’s and a 180 doing 14-20 inch or more tree widths and it does good but you are right it’s not meant for cutting big wood consistent
Stop repeating yourself so much. I don't know much about all this stuff but I can understand that you dont know what u r talking about. If this saw does not cut 8 inch log then idk what to say ..
That is the way all Stihl Master control levers work. You do not press the throttle on a Husky, either. You just push the choke in to go to the high idle position and then blip the throttle to go to idle.
Do you have plastic felling wedges to pound into the cut, to release your pinched bar and chain? You can pick them up at any saw shop. They're reasonably priced and last a long time.
I have cut through 12 inch seasoned locust with my MS170 and it did great. It is a little beast. I have cut a lot of wood and the saw chain is still sharp. I'm sure it will dull in a little while but so far I'm excited about the saw. I still don't believe how good it is.
I have the 017 saw with a 14 inch bar. Don't know how long I've had it, a long time! Its been a great little saw. I also bought an ms 180 a couple years ago with a 16 inch bar. They are the dynamic duo of chainsaws! They are very versatile & dependable, & trouble free saws! I have cut alot of wood with these 2 saws.
I ran a 015 for over 30 years with only a 14" bar and never had any problems. That's why I purchased a MS170. First tree cut down was a 10" diameter maple. I had no problem at all. I cut just as large or larger with the smaller 015 and I do not expect to have any difficulty cutting down 10-15" trees with the new MS 170. As for the chain, I believe it cuts quite well and has no problem at all with plunge cuts. Unlike the old 015, the anti-vibration mount really reduces any type of fatigue associated with vibration. Great little saw.
I love this chainsaw! I put a thicker gauge chain on it and it fuckin cuts anything! People say it’s not powerful. I beg to differ that. Mine cuts anything. 16 inch bar with a skip tooth chain. Others may have different opinions but this saw is very good.
I just purchased one today - sale for $159. I had a large pine fall and I wanted to cut it into 2' sections for removal. About half the tree was over 14" and the saw handled it well. I ran about 1.75 tanks of fuel through it - and about 1.25 tanks of chain lube (I used 10w30 Mobil 1 as it was handy). I would agree that the saw likes a sharp chain. Towards the end of the work, I could tell the chain was dull. To that point, I just ordered two more chains. So, the saw gets the job done for the average guy. While not required, I run Av gas (100 octane) in all of my Stihl stuff, so that didn't hurt performance. :)
I bought one of these today to replace an old Homelite XL. Broke it in, runs great, cuts great. The pull start on the new engine is very stiff so you really have to keep a grip on the saw. Hope to get 10 or 20 years out of it like some of you guys.
Totally agree. Good saw for what it is. Had one for about 3 years it ran good until the throttle linkage started disconnecting its self. If I had to cut 8" logs all day I'd grab my 261, not even a question choosing between the two. Love how people say this will cut 20 inch plus logs. I can eat soup with a fork also. Don't understand why people have such shallow pride in an inanimate object.
G’day mate, I’ve had my MS170 for about 8 years now and still love it. I cut Australian hard wood with it day in and day out, it’s fantastic! In all that time I’ve only replaced one chain and one spark plug. Today I stripped it down and gave it a really good clean up, well deserved. Thanks for your review.
Mate! You can cut 8" trees all day everyday with this little saw.Keep the chain sharp as ever and it wont let you down. I use it for fencing primarily.great for notching.small and light enough to pick up and handle all day. You fell a tree with a bigger saw you lop it with this little bloke if youve had enoygh of handling the bigger saw. It is in my mind a companion saw.
I learned more from watching this video and reading the comments (especially the comments) than I did on a dozen "review" sites. Thanks for posting this.
I like mine too. I pretty much use it the same way. Bucking (limbing) limbs off after cutting a tree down and some small to medium tree cutting. Some of these guys talk about using it for larger trees and that’s fine if you don’t have many and don’t need to buy a bigger saw. But how you described it is about right on. 👍
This gentleman has done a true review of the MS170. I have owned mine for 5+ years. The idle is high, but the saw does what it is made for. I have cut, limbed and bucked 6 to 8 inch trees over the 5 years. It has never let md down. Thanks.
Thanks for the review, Im after a saw to chop down 15 year old cypress trees and firewood from then on, glad you said it was designed for limbing, saves me buying it! Cheers cheers
I appreciate this video. Being able to see what a saw looks like with experience in the machine. EDIT: this saw would work better with a Yellow chain. As a opposed to a Greenie. Anti Kickback isn't necessary for such a small 2 hand saw. If it was top handle maybe.
Thanks very much for this excellent review. Based on your comments this saw fit my needs perfectly and I purchased one. Light, well made and reliable. I would recommend having a second chain sharp and ready for those situations you need to clear a fallen tree and do not have the 5 to 10 minutes to touch up the chain.
I have had mine for around 3 years. Lately i have been useing it to take down and buck a bunch of trees. It bogs down on thick stuff but i have been working with it. Mine doesn't get dull as long as i cut fresh wood and the chain never touches the ground. The moment i cut old dirty wood it dulls quit
It high idles like that to warm up the cylinder that's why the trigger feature is like that don't receive saws if you don't know anything about them dumbest review I've ever seen
I have 1/4 acre and this saw is perfect. Most stuff we cut is small...but in the off chance a bigger tree or branch comes down, this saw will take it on no problem. Great saw and great video!
I've had this saw for a while now...3/8 P chain. I put an Oregon bar w/ a 3/8 .050 55 chain on mine along with a side adjustment and a steel bucking claw and it's a little beast. We bought 12 acres of property and I've cut a shit ton of cedar trees down with mine. And it will cut 8-10" (and bigger) trees all day with no effort. The smaller chain is a weak point...go to the bigger Oregon bar and chain and watch the chips fly. You'll be surprised what this little saw will do. I keep my saws clean, maintained & with a sharp chain and no issues. Actually wanted to go with a bigger pro saw but just can't justify it right now with the way this saw is running. FWIW...just my opinion from running this guy for a while.
True we did upgrade the chain and now it is amazing that micro chain really was holding it back
I'm looking to buy a ms170. What is the side adjustment you were referring to in your review? Thanks
I just watched another review of a guy cutting 20'' tree, where he had to cut either side of it. he just said he kept the chain sharp(no bigger bar or different chain). But I could tell he was pushing it had with that. your idea of putting a bigger bar/chain on it sounds good. Stihl always designs their products to be able to put bigger things on them and still run like a dream
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
I use my 170 to cut up to 18" trees no prob at all for 4 yrs..... keep your chains sharp job sorted
A sharp chain will cut anything, even with a weakest motor. Just may take longer. I agree.
I've had one of these saws for 15 years. I've cut many 18 inch trees easily. I sharpen it frequently, takes about five minutes. I also have an 029 farm boss but it kills my back. Btw your chain is way too loose.
The old ones are OK, these new fucks are shitty, bad seals. Junk so dont bother comparing an old saw
@@daleval2182 jo
I have this saw and love it. I have owned bigger saws (professional) over the years, but my lower back is shot, so I bought the MS170. Tips for the amateur: make sure it's warmed up before starting to cut, keep it sharp, do not "lay on it" (force it).........go to a larger saw if you want to cut faster, have it "screaming" before you engage the wood and limbs. I wish that I would have bought one years ago. Play safe guys :)
Thanks for the comment and watching :)
Idle is set too high, chain is too loose, and to say this saw won't cut 6-8" logs all day is ridiculous.
6-8" logs is exactly what a small saw like this is made for.
If you said it won't cut 12-14" logs all day then you would be partially correct. It will cut 12-14" logs all day but it will take forever and is outside of what it was designed for.
But 6-8"? Seriously?
If your 170 can't cut a 6" log then your chain sharpening skills need to be upgraded substantially.
Are you kidding. That twig you pointed out I kick those in half! You can cut anything you want with that saw, and that’s what it was made for. Whatever you want to cut. Just may take longer.
I have a MS170 I cut 6-7 inch logs all the time Im having no problems , had the chainsaw for 3 years
Also he is missing the machining plug in the bar. This can cause a small saw to hang up in a cut.
Agreed, my buddy's MS170 and my MS171 will cut 6" to 8" all day long. I cut down, limb and junk all my 6" to 10" firewood with my saw. I chose the MS171 because it was light and cheap. Regardless of what it was made for, it will cut some large trees. I've been 2 years with the original chain and should have no trouble getting another 2 tears according to the sharpening limit marks.
MotoJunkie23 j opp g
I've had a 170 for nearly 10 years. It is my only saw and has cut down 20" diameter trees. I have cut all day, every day, for a fortnight. It has logged, snedded and felled. The small chain is great, especially with full chisel cutters, agressive and fast. The chains last until there is nothing left to sharpen. All in all a great little saw that shows no sign of giving up yet, and so much easier to use all day than a 260 sized machine. As for the criticism of the on/off/choke lever......cobblers man. It is the same as all the Stihl saws I've ever used. Try using the saw to it's full potential and you will see what it really can do. I use cheapo oils and fuel with mine, never a problem.
Poor review tbh.
Bro if you can’t cut an 8in log with that saw your doing something wrong
depends on species of wood and other factors... Bro is not proper decorum on this forum..
The saw is basically a lining saw or a climbers saw it’s small and not meant for that
It can cut it, but that's not what it's meant to do. If you have one or two such logs, you're fine. If you're cutting them all day, you're going to have a bad time.
Your chain is to loose and you need to tune the carb. And it's saw not sawl
I have the same saw and ive cut alot of firewood with it. you can cut bigger tree's and all day
Hey i have the same saw and it stopped working today Yesterday it cut wood super good
These saws are contancorors
Good review but wow you are underrating this saw. I understand it's not meant for long term bigger stuff but it will easily cut 6"-8" logs for homeowner use. Easily!
This guy doesnt have a clue what hes talking about!
Why?
This guy has no idea what these saws are capable of. As with all saws, if you keep it in tip top condition it’ll perform the tasks set within reason. Common sense prevails.
I have this saw. Great saw but it struggles to cut anything larger than 8 inches in diameter even with the mods I've done. It's only 30cc. My bigger saw is a 46cc 20" bar and it cuts larger diameter logs like warm butter.
I won't buy a chainsaw to cut them sticks handsaw will do. I'm sure she's capable for a lot more.😂
"this saw won't cut 6-8" logs all day" WAT lol
I’ve cut 14 inch logs with it and it does just fine stop being a baby
I disagree with a few things on this review this saw is made for more than just a limbing saw that I can vouch for
I have cut over 50 full cords with my MS181 I sharpen my chain 1 stroke every tank full of fuel with a Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener. I can cut over a Rick of wood on a tankful of fuel in less than 35 minutes. I cut small stuff big stuff whatever. I cut 12" to 18" all the time. I have even cut down a Elm that was 28" diameter. Took me 1 tank of fuel and about 30 minutes to cut up the main trunk down both sides. Hold it wide open and let the sharp chain do the work, don't force the saw and bog it down. The chains hold up well and make a smaller 2hp saw cut like it has 3hp. The small Stihl chainsaws are the best for cutting firewood and if you can't cut it with a MS170 to a MS181 with a 16" bar you have a dull chain or your rakers are too high, not a lack of power.
A chainsaw is a saw !!! It will cut anything you want... it's the operator that pinches the chain and bar ... Also it's a picco chain for the people who probably shouldn't own a chainsaw to begin with!!! It's designed not to kick back and split your forehead to your asshole !!!
THE POSITION (HALF CHOKE OR IDLE AS YOU CALL IT) STARTS THE SAW WAY TOO FAST FULL BORE ON COLD MOTOR! VERY BAD! JUST GO DIRECTLY FROM FULL CHOKE RESPONSE TO RUN!
Wrong …. you put the choke on as described …. you pull until saw coughs and almost starts. You then move control up to warm position, then pull again and start the saw. You don't start it in the choke position!
The MS 170 is not a bad residential saw, if you know that your getting into.
First off, 43 gauge chain, so although it will cut fast since it taking a thinner bite, but it means a lot more chain sharping to keep the chain sharp as well.
Next, Stihl changed out the cranks side seals on the new 170's to single seals lips, verses the old double lip seals of the older 170's. So plan on having to change the single side seals out to double seal lips by the end of the first year, if not sooner. Hence when the seals leak, your sucking in a lot more air, which cause the saw to run too lean, and will burn it up (the piston and the cylinder scored to hell). The problem is compounded by the fact that the carb is not adjustable on the unit. There is the TW215 carb mode so you can easily adjusted the carb without having to pull it apart to get at the jets, but really not needed so long as you keep in mind the side crank seal problem to begin that needs to be addressed ASAP so the carb stays tuned correctly isntead.
Note, since the seal cavities are part of the molding of the case, when you split the case, a touch of RTC as the seal areas of the crank area channel goes a long was to prevent seals from leaking on the outer edges as well. Again, if the crank seals start to leak, your going to be sucking in more air into the cylinder, going to cause the saw to run lean, and going to burn up the pistol and cylinder, hence the piston and cylinder burnt to hell on the exhaust side.
Lastly, although the chain pump system is not bad, there is a problem with the bar chain oiler tube that will be leak central by the the start of year two.
To conclude, not a bad residential saw for light year, and at the end of year one if only used for light use, pull the saw apart to go after the key parts.
Note, if the saw is going to be a work horse, change out the side seals from the start. Note sure why they when to single lips seals, but my guess is to have the saw burn up faster, with most owners just opting to buy a new for $170 again isntead.
Hence first year service for light use, replace the single lip crank seals with the older double lips seals (aftermarket if needed), and use a light coat of RTV on the out sides of the seals to the crank case as well.
On the new chain bar oiler tube that you will replace since the old one will be leaking by that point, use Dielectrical/silicone gears on the outside of the tubing parts, since it will slow the rubber down from drying out to cause the bar oil leaks fro the tank seal area, and the channel for the pump. Also, when you go to grease the crank to the seals to put the new double sided seals on the crank sides, use some Dielectrical/silicone on the seal/cranks surfaces as well. Hence standard grease is going to cause problems with the seal lips after time ,while silicone grease will not cause harm to the seals isntead.
Now so long as you clean the saw enough to prevent the saw dust build up from over heating it, keep the spark arrestor, spark plug and air filter clean, chain sharp, should not have problem with the saw for a couple more years. Hence in a few years, will be time to change the bar pump on the unit, change the oiler tube again, and address an other problems like maybe a bar is it worn out come that time as well.
Note, not a big fan of the 50 gauge bar and chain on the say, since it really does not have the power to make bigger cuts on thicker tree's that the saw was disigned for to begin with. Hence if you need to run a 20" bar, then get a saw with the needed power to run that size bar without problem isntead.
Once last thing, and you can pick up after market top end kits for a ms170 (turns it into a 180 motor) for around $40, and with new seals, and comes to about $50 in the end. I bring this up, since if you are looking at a used MS170 for sale, pull the muffler to take a look at the piston through the exhaust port for any scaring. Hence bank that someone burnt the saw up by year two, needs a new top end and seal kit, making the saw worth about $60 if all the other parts are still good instead (since you can buy a brand new MS170 for under $180 brand new.
D Baker I rewrote a key sentence about halfway through your screed: 'Note sure why they when to single lips seals, but my guess is to have the saw burn up faster, with most owners finding a Bluebird Brand saw bought online for $69 to be as good a solution in their need category, and never buying another German built product.'
My wife just bought me one of these today. I haven't even ran it yet, so it's good to know about the seal. Do you have to split the case to do replace it?
be careful with everythng man anyone that works at a stihl dealership can look at that serial number then see who its registered to then see all your personal info be safe out there
Just got this saw today. Cut 8" logs like a hot knife through butter. Have a poulan 62cc saw and it doesn't seem to have as much power or cut as good as this little 30cc saw. It's great dont know why this guy thinks you can only cut twigs with it.
In that case MAKE A NEW VIDEO! You SAID this saw was not maid for eight inch logs. CAN'T HELP IT THAT IS WHAT YOU SAID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
calm down I didn't say anything
@@Smightification RIGHT! Do NOT go to 6:24 to 6:47 of this video. Before you start denying what you say, it might be a GREAT ideal to watch the video.
@@davescorneroftheworld1147 yep that's not me in the video.. lol soooo I didn't say it
@@Smightification Since this is NOT your video and YOU did NOT say that, why are you replying to my comments?
Maybe you should get a saw with a 60" bar to cut a 20" log.!
Sorry, I do not have time to spend with you. Every second I have left on this earth is valuable to my and you are a total waste of my valuable time.
That scared me a bit too until I found guys that had cut 20" or more in two cuts. Not my cup of tea but it appears to handle 8", maybe 10" with no problem.
From the comments here, I think its time to bring your saw into the saw shop for a proper tune-up.
I have two of the 170's it drop 14" and 16" trees all day long
Me too!
I cut fire wood with it no problem...the saw is not meant to just d limb lol
I have a GREAT idea! Since you think this saw is only good for about a four inch log, lets take the 16" bar off and put a four inch bar and chain on it. THERE FRIXED TO PERFECTION?
A better idea is just to get rid of the micro chain.. it totally transformed the saw this was based on the micro chain
This is a stihl ms170 I've never had any issue cutting ANYTHING. I cut my years fire wood plus several other people's with it every year. I've worked with pro loggers that only go as high as 300 series. Don't over think it. Cut safe and cut to your own skill level. This saw can do it all.
It comes off half choke by itself once you rev it up. Doesn't matter if you like it or not, that's the way it was designed to work. Nobody else complains about it on any other saw, and many other saws are the same way. You're trying to give an honest review but you lack the knowledge to do it.
BTW, as pointed out already, your carb is not properly adjusted and your chain is dangerously loose. Also, up your sharpening skills; compare a chain you sharpened to either a new one or one that was professionally sharpened.
The carb has no adjustments for low or high jets but you can raise the metering lever for more fuel.
limbing saw my hairy white ass...... 10 years of 5 to 6 cord of fire wood a year plus hundreds of hours of everything from broken telephone pole cutting to rough lumber/timber cutting and it's just had the usual bar and chain replacements. As far as the sharp chain is concerned that's chainsaw 101 for any chainsaw. I also have the MS440 and the MS170 is what I grab 90% of the time for it's compactness, weight and ability for it's size.
gmctech cool stuff
This guy hasn't got a clue😂😂😂
Must be your first Stihl.. they all have the single operation lever to allow one handed use. I’ve used my 170 to cut firewood for years and it still works great. I have a few different pro saws but always find myself reaching for the small MS170 homeowner saw because it’s light and nimble. Might take a few more seconds per cut but big deal.
I bought my ms 170 12 years ago and I will cut anything even big trees this saw was intended for ocasional use like you said in the video. But I will say that this saw has been put threw alot with me I have cut close to 40 cords of wood with only this saw and still runs good. All you have to do is keep good fuel and oil and maintain the saw. And I do have bigger saws but I like this one the most
+Andrew Tiefry you sound like you know what your doing and that's a big difference in owning this saw. Keep the Chain sharp and it will cut bigger stuff fine.but most people have no idea how to maintain and keep a chain sharp and wanna cut 14-18 inch round trees all day.
Your absolutely right most people think that there saw cuts fine but is very dull
A quick tip I got from a very experienced woodsman...you don't ever want to see sawdust coming out the back if the saw, you want large chips. I'm sure this is common sense to most but I'll bet some of you out there don't realize your chain is dull. When sharp, these saws will cut some very large logs and will do it all day long without killing your back.
When I bought my MS170 four years ago, the german dealer put it together and showed me how the saw is meant to be started:
Activate the chain brake, this means push big black front security lever in direction of the blade. Put the saw on the ground, right foot goes into the handle, left hand holds the handle.
Press the two security things on the handle with your right hand, so you are able to put the little black lever down to the bottom, complete, this is the cold start position. Now drag two to five times, till it fires shortly, but it is NOT meant to be running!
No put the black lever one position higher, start the saw.
As soon as it has started, push the bottom thing on the handle, then the little black lever goes automatically higher in normal position, and the saw has standby gas, lower rpm (rotations per minute).
Be carefull, do everything on your own risk.
Really great saw by the way, it can do much more than I expected, it goes very well for garden and around the house. It eats bigger trees too, but if you do bigger trees a lot you need ... guess it ... a bigger saw :)
Horst Norst. Thanks for telling us how to start this chainsaw. I have owned a 170 for a few years. I bought it for firewood, that's how these saws are sold here. When I first tried to start it that was the time I needed to read your post. But after a couple of days work it was a total jack russell. It's a pruning saw for big shrubs, a sweet and nimble limbing saw, a carving saw for rotten patches of apple tree trunk, a fine carpentry tool where a router takes too long to set up, essential field-fencer's companion, the quickest way to get a rough plywood panel out of an 8x4, climbing saw at a pinch, and the list goes on. I use it as often in my business as all the rest of my saws combined, love them tho I do, even my 116Si with original 20" bar and a beautiful baritone voice. The stihl's only fault, it's a 111dB soprano.
if this saw is just good for cutting small stuff as you did in the review. why not just use a hand saw and skip this purchase all together?
enjoyed your review btw.
it will cut stuff bigger but really compared to a big saw that's made for it there is no comparison is what i was trying to say!
KILLRA must BE FROM SOME 3RD WORLD COUNTRY
Great review well thought out with actual time on this saw. As of the choke system on this saw it is a lot of steps to start because it doesn't have a primer bulb BUT if you understand small engines it is a great setup. With the engine being as small as it is the throttle butterfly is in front of the choke so by holding the throttle to set the choke allows for more vacuum to get the fuel up from the tank through the carb to the engine. Now when the engine pops the engine is over loaded with fuel so having to push the choke to 2nd position holds the throttle open so when it starts it will burn off unnecessary fuel by revving up and leaning out and by popping the throttle it will release the choke system and it will let it idle down and run properly.
This saw, like all Stihls in this genre, are designed to allow you single handed operation of the the throttle, choke and kill switch. Other saws don't offer that convenience, therefore, depending on the design can compromise safety. The Stihl saws allow you to start the saw, eliminate the primer and allow you to simply flick the switch with your thumb while maintaining control of the throttle and the body of the saw via the right hand (primary control hand of all saws). I've had this saw for 2 years and I've cut some gnarly big stuff with it. I've been able to cut with guys that have much more expensive Husqvarnas, Efcos and Jonsereds. I'm not saying that it cuts like a professional saw, but I've had many guys sitting and working on their $600+ saws while I'm cutting away maintenance free. Just watch the chain oil. Run it full bore in front of a piece of wood or the ground and make sure visible oil spray is present. If not, the little tube from the oil reservoir may have become clogged. And, I have cut many, many 20+ plus inch logs with this saw...you just have to work it through from both sides. As far as cutting 8" stuff all day, that's a walk in the park for this saw if the operator is capable. I cut a half ton today while also clearing limbs and picking olives.
Exactly my saying! Stihl saws are in this point perfect! Just single hand operation not like other saws with switches, knobs, primers ... that's bullshit! Very nice saw and of course that MS 170 will cut easily bigger logs.
Have owned a still ms170c 16" bar chain saw for 15 + years. Used it to cut double trailer loads of oak, maple and ash. Although I bought it for limbing, it soon replaced my larger saw due to its light Weight and ease of use. Had it going this week to help a friend who lost 18 trees in a windstorm. Yes it will cut 6,8,and 10 inch logs all day long and then some. Has been sitting for 6 months since last used and started in 3-4 pulls!
Best honest review I can give you. If I haven't cut 60 to 80 bush cords with this gem then I've underestimated how many cords I've cut.
If you know what you’re doing and you’re patient you could take down some really big trees with an MS 170!
See I blew my 180c motor up cutting big logs your correct it's only ment for small stuff.by the way I rebuild the motor so it's still lives.
My 170 is my trail riding saw,it cuts whatever I tell it to cut,I'm not going to turn around cuz a log looks scary haha
It’s impossible to beat this saw in weight, price,mileage,performance, reliability…there’s only one serious choice in the 30cc category and this is it. Well done review!
You can cut a LOT of wood with a 170. I have a 170, 261, and a 362. I cut 22-25 loads of wood a year. The big saws stay in the truck until I need them. My 170 has a 14" bar, it will easily cut 10-12" stuff. If you have any experience with chainsaws you should know you can change that chain and bar to a .050 chain and get much better performance out of it.
I picked up an MS170 for limbing, as you stated, but I insisted on the dealer upgrading to the .050-3/8 bar and chain. Mainly for durability and longevity of the chain sharpness. I've had mine going on three years and for a lesser expensive Stihl home owner saw, it does its job very well. Great job with the review. Oh...a slight muffler mod and adjustable carb replacement can make the saw more versatile. But for its intended use, I have left well enough alone with just the upgraded bar and am as pleased as you are with the saw as a whole. Cheers!! Zip~
yeah like i said great saw but really meant for smaller stuff. it will do it but compared to the bigger saws its not worth it. i should have done what you did with the upgraded chain.
The .050 bar and chain is a sound investment, just for the rigidity factor of both bar and chain. The sprocket doesn't need replaced and the .004 increase in bar width doesn't effect anything as far as fitment goes. Cheers! Zip~
.004 increase in bars width or thickness in steel?
One in the same IBoosted. The bar is thicker and the .004" increase is the width of the groove the chain rides in as as well as the width of the sprocket nose is a little heartier. Ultimately, I would like a 16" Stihl ES Bar, but if you can find one, they're around $100. The ES bars are one solid piece of steel machined with a replaceable sprocket nose where the Standard Rollamatic E bar is a three piece laminated construction. Both are good, the ES is just more durable and will last a lot longer. Hope this answers your question. Zip~
I have cut mine using my MS180c a little more horses that does cut enough wood to keep ya warm and then some . I have had mine for 4 years . That dinky tree is nothing for me that's bigger than the tree he's talking about sry but the 180c will do better over all . I am not from Ky but trust me I have used it in -2 & - 18 below zero weather last year no problems at all lol yeah . 😎
Yep as a newbie I attempted to cut and remove a stump blunt the chain in less than a minute, however chains are cheap so I purchased 4 . For spare s . And sharpen the blunt one exactly cuts small stuff thank you buddy
The comments are a better review than the review. Here's a great hint too clean the exhaust screen if you want the saw to run good . Found this out the hard way.
Not true at all. I have owned a ms170 for 6 years and I use it hard. I will drop a tree with my husqvarna rancher and limb the trunk and cut it up with my 170, up to 24".Wow, the chain will stay sharp if you don't cut junk! I will cut all day with no issues with the chain getting dull. I never leave negative comments because I know these guys usually are trying to make a living but this guy has absolutely no idea what he is talking about! The MS170 is a great overall saw.
My craftsman barley lasted 2 months 😭I'm warning you don't waste your money on a cheap brand. If your looking for a saw definitely get a Stihl, Husqvarna or an Echo.
If you dull that chain after a couple cuts, then you’re digging for gold.
You've said it will not cut fire wood all day long.. right? You are kidding right? It might be a small chainsaw.. but if you know how to cut with it.. it will cut all day long...with no problem.. how do i know? I have the exact same chainsaw from stihl..and it just keep runing. ofcourse with proper mentenance and sharp chain.
The information about the choke operation was very good, but my word, you repeated it so many times it became boring!
Finally when you started up the unit it all made sense. Talk, but once you say something, DON'T keep on repeating it.
I appreciate your review. I was thinking about getting this for my dad as his father's day gift but wasn't sure. I have an ms 361 with 20" bar and it's a beast. It does whatever I need it to do but it gets heavy after a while. Now that my dad's getting ready to retire I'll finally have someone out there helping me clearing pathways and areas for our homes. It's 30 acres of Oak trees. There's some good size trees out there which is why I got the 361. My dad's got a bad shoulder and from what I saw on your review the 170 will be perfect for him. I'll do the cutting he can do the trimming. Thank you for your review
I have an MS170 for about 4 years now. A great lightweight saw for light duty work if you like Stihl's. I agree with the reviewer - it's not for bucking big wood. The bar gets so hot the oil smokes. Within it's limitations it's a capable machine.
They have a full choke (all the way down), and a half choke setting (next one up) it shouldn’t ever start on full choke. You should be watching a how-to video instead of making your own review video
Bought my 170 brand new 16 inch bar switched out for 12 in bar cut a lot better use it for small cutting de lemming and small firewood cut up you got to know the saws limitation I've had no problems with the saw whatsoever had mine for 2 years
it's a piece of shit. brand new saw owned for 2 months and used for 3 hours total had the housing split apart. it split right at the screw where the bottom of the handle bolts through the ridiculously thin plastic. Stihl of course wouldn't warranty it. dropped the piece of shit off at their regional HQ and bought an Echo, will NEVER own another Stihl
Sounds like you bought the wrong saw. If you want a pull choke buy a pull choke saw and quit bitching about how this one is made. I have two Stihl saws that operate the same way. I like them. If you feel it is two small then buy a larger one. This one works great for me. I cut 8-10 in trees with it.
Really good review. Iv always used stihl and all the chokes are the same. I don't even think about it anymore.
very good description thanks. btw i'm so thankfull that you tell that the starting button is a crazy thing! i have Echo, Shindaiwa saws and before you start you pull the choke and as soosn as the motor run you push it down and start again. why Sthill doesn't go like that is a mytery for me
Ive worm out two ms 170’s and a 180 doing 14-20 inch or more tree widths and it does good but you are right it’s not meant for cutting big wood consistent
I run a 181cbe and that will cut 18 in all day and it's the same size engine as the 170
Stop repeating yourself so much. I don't know much about all this stuff but I can understand that you dont know what u r talking about. If this saw does not cut 8 inch log then idk what to say ..
Good review mate I bought one a few days good for gardens in the suburbs works fine for that ,old jimmy Australia
One thing about a battery powered saw... You will never hurt your arm pulling a crank rope.
That is the way all Stihl Master control levers work. You do not press the throttle on a Husky, either. You just push the choke in to go to the high idle position and then blip the throttle to go to idle.
It’s funny, you said the same exact things I would have said
I've had that saw for a few years. Just let it eat without forcing it. A good saw for the money.
Do you have plastic felling wedges to pound into the cut, to release your pinched bar and chain? You can pick them up at any saw shop. They're reasonably priced and last a long time.
I have cut through 12 inch seasoned locust with my MS170 and it did great. It is a little beast. I have cut a lot of wood and the saw chain is still sharp. I'm sure it will dull in a little while but so far I'm excited about the saw. I still don't believe how good it is.
I'm a lil woman need a chain saw thinking about getting the 170
marlene fischer Be just the job for you, or get the ms180. Same saw but with a bit more power.👍
If you want to cut big wood, get a big saw. this saw is great for anyone around the home and that's what it was made for.
Great review, You nailed it...it does everything it's intended to do and does those things great! Try to push the limits and it will struggle.
Why would stihl put an 18" bar and chain on a saw that is only for small limbs hmm mm doesn't make sense at all
while it does cut small stuff, i've used mine to drop some sizable trees, probably 12-13 inch diameter, its a small monster
@Jacob Mcbride I mean at 9 ish pounds it might as well be
I have the 017 saw with a 14 inch bar. Don't know how long I've had it, a long time! Its been a great little saw. I also bought an ms 180 a couple years ago with a 16 inch bar. They are the dynamic duo of chainsaws! They are very versatile & dependable, & trouble free saws! I have cut alot of wood with these 2 saws.
Depending on the type of wood ,grain it can cut 10" easy
I ran a 015 for over 30 years with only a 14" bar and never had any problems. That's why I purchased a MS170. First tree cut down was a 10" diameter maple. I had no problem at all. I cut just as large or larger with the smaller 015 and I do not expect to have any difficulty cutting down 10-15" trees with the new MS 170. As for the chain, I believe it cuts quite well and has no problem at all with plunge cuts. Unlike the old 015, the anti-vibration mount really reduces any type of fatigue associated with vibration. Great little saw.
I love this chainsaw! I put a thicker gauge chain on it and it fuckin cuts anything! People say it’s not powerful. I beg to differ that. Mine cuts anything. 16 inch bar with a skip tooth chain. Others may have different opinions but this saw is very good.
I just purchased one today - sale for $159. I had a large pine fall and I wanted to cut it into 2' sections for removal. About half the tree was over 14" and the saw handled it well. I ran about 1.75 tanks of fuel through it - and about 1.25 tanks of chain lube (I used 10w30 Mobil 1 as it was handy). I would agree that the saw likes a sharp chain. Towards the end of the work, I could tell the chain was dull. To that point, I just ordered two more chains. So, the saw gets the job done for the average guy. While not required, I run Av gas (100 octane) in all of my Stihl stuff, so that didn't hurt performance. :)
I bought one of these today to replace an old Homelite XL. Broke it in, runs great, cuts great. The pull start on the new engine is very stiff so you really have to keep a grip on the saw. Hope to get 10 or 20 years out of it like some of you guys.
Totally agree. Good saw for what it is. Had one for about 3 years it ran good until the throttle linkage started disconnecting its self. If I had to cut 8" logs all day I'd grab my 261, not even a question choosing between the two. Love how people say this will cut 20 inch plus logs. I can eat soup with a fork also. Don't understand why people have such shallow pride in an inanimate object.
G’day mate, I’ve had my MS170 for about 8 years now and still love it. I cut Australian hard wood with it day in and day out, it’s fantastic! In all that time I’ve only replaced one chain and one spark plug. Today I stripped it down and gave it a really good clean up, well deserved.
Thanks for your review.
I have one on my farm in Swaziland. Will cut any wood I want, hardwood is tricky but it manages well and it doesn't flinch at all
We abuse the crap out of one of these at work clearing trail for fencing. And it keeps going.
Mate! You can cut 8" trees all day everyday with this little saw.Keep the chain sharp as ever and it wont let you down.
I use it for fencing primarily.great for notching.small and light enough to pick up and handle all day.
You fell a tree with a bigger saw you lop it with this little bloke if youve had enoygh of handling the bigger saw.
It is in my mind a companion saw.
I learned more from watching this video and reading the comments (especially the comments) than I did on a dozen "review" sites. Thanks for posting this.
I use my saw on any tree I need to cut never lets me down
does the ms180 is worse?
I have this chainsaw. I am clearing hedge and locust off my property. Up to 16 inch plus. It has not let me down. I do have multiple chains.
I like mine too. I pretty much use it the same way. Bucking (limbing) limbs off after cutting a tree down and some small to medium tree cutting. Some of these guys talk about using it for larger trees and that’s fine if you don’t have many and don’t need to buy a bigger saw. But how you described it is about right on. 👍
Your understanding of the Stihl choke is laughable.
then enlighten us with your vast amounts of wisdom!
Own a 170 and a 180 and have cut trees 20'' . Great tool.
This gentleman has done a true review of the MS170. I have owned mine for 5+ years. The idle is high, but the saw does what it is made for. I have cut, limbed and bucked 6 to 8 inch trees over the 5 years. It has never let md down. Thanks.
I have one and it cuts anything obvs not designed to cut all day but will do it fine
Thanks for the review, Im after a saw to chop down 15 year old cypress trees and firewood from then on, glad you said it was designed for limbing, saves me buying it! Cheers cheers
I appreciate this video. Being able to see what a saw looks like with experience in the machine.
EDIT: this saw would work better with a Yellow chain. As a opposed to a Greenie. Anti Kickback isn't necessary for such a small 2 hand saw. If it was top handle maybe.
Thanks very much for this excellent review. Based on your comments this saw fit my needs perfectly and I purchased one. Light, well made and reliable. I would recommend having a second chain sharp and ready for those situations you need to clear a fallen tree and do not have the 5 to 10 minutes to touch up the chain.
I have had mine for around 3 years.
Lately i have been useing it to take down and buck a bunch of trees.
It bogs down on thick stuff but i have been working with it.
Mine doesn't get dull as long as i cut fresh wood and the chain never touches the ground.
The moment i cut old dirty wood it dulls quit
It high idles like that to warm up the cylinder that's why the trigger feature is like that don't receive saws if you don't know anything about them dumbest review I've ever seen
Review
I have 1/4 acre and this saw is perfect. Most stuff we cut is small...but in the off chance a bigger tree or branch comes down, this saw will take it on no problem. Great saw and great video!
+Joseph P yeah its a great saw and what you do with it is perfect.