Getting ready to buy a 413 block, then bore to 426. Got a pair of wedge heads from Chrysler 12 years ago. Not legal for stock class, will be using good rods and pistons. Thanks for the video.
I have an A64HP SW that came out of a 65 wagon. It wouldn’t be as powerful as the one you blew up but it will get better gas mileage if you decide to make it a daily driver😁 Love the videos! I missed out on the opportunity to guess what happened but I would have to go with wall thickness. Looks like you discovered the “minimum” wall thickness on your Maxie, and it didn't like it. Bummer. But hey thanks for taking one for the team, now we know, (the hard way). “sometimes you have to go through something to learn something.” Be encouraged!
How many times were the rod bolts torqued? After a while they stretch and do not return to length. Did you measure rod bolt stretch assembling the engine or just torque to spec? Non cap screw style rod bolts should be torqued to stretch spec the manufacturer of the rod bolt gives. This is straight from the Direct Connection Book.
It’s all fix able, so glad the car and you didn’t spin in the oil you laid down. It sounds like you have lots of good friends to help you out. I have a long love affair with your car, my wife and I took our kids to Vashon for a picnic 20 plus years ago. The wagon was parked in front of a garage or store, I can’t remember which. Good Luck getting it back together, looking forward to seeing it at the track again. Thank You again for the shirt’s.
The block has to be hard blocked. To survive. I don't know how far up. It split a cylinder wall, and the water came in. It's core shift, you can check it with a sonic tester.
Man , it made sick to see that block and its contents. I had a similar expensive incident with my big block Nova and it sat for a few years before I got it back together. I think .30 over is a more practical solution plus you have wiggle room to be legal if a tear down should ever happen. Glad tou have some spare blocks to work with. Hope the cam isn’t dinged up to.
Holy smokes, that is some damage! Block, crank, rods, pistons are probably junk. Hopefully, the cam is salvageable. At least, the heads are OK, considering they're rarity. Don't worry about a free T-shirt, you'll need all your money for rebuilding the short block. I figured a rod let go!
hey its Gaffo and Dr bigblock (do you guys still go by that?), didn't know u guys were on the youtubes now! Saw the "incident" first on a video my dad took from the stands. Looked like a big vaporized money cloud! Anyway he's been having fun with my old wagon. I had to go and move my stupid butt to California. Next time he comes out to visit u tell him his son said "Hi" just for the helluvit. I gotta couple old flathead plymouths I'm tinkering with these days. Good luck on the engine build! Be honest with yourself, the build is half the fun and now you have an excuse to build some more!
Thank you for showing us all what can happen in real time while you are experiencing it. I actually study metal failures for a living, especially castings. I was trying to pause the video to see if where the block failed if there was any evidence of a crack prior. This is kind of easy to tell because you will see the metal a different color of where the fracture was. Like maybe a little rust if you get a magnifying glass. Not that it would do any good to know this however it would be interesting to look. Next time I feel like shifting at 7000 RPMs I will remember your video. Thanks for the great content, sorry this happened to you but you handled it very well.
We can second guess ourselves until the cow come home but you know at the end of the day sh*t happens! I'm pretty sure that the #3 cylinder failed, filled with water and boom! Lots of pressure, lots of RPMs...we're already at work getting another bullet together for next year. You only live once!
I certainly don't have your experience or knowledge about your engine... But as I viewed the carnage, I came to the conclusion of bearing/rod failure after seeing the dark color on the crank journal... Once the bearing/rod let go, then I think they took out the cylinder wall... After a better evaluation can't you agree? With all the ribbing I see on your block, what type of block/year casting was it? I know you will get it right again in good time! Later, Frank Parks at Mopar Restos in Summerville, Ga.
@@frankparks4900 I can't disagree with your conclusion. Of course, much of the mayhem that happened during the event happened because of all the water that entered the cylinder (high RPM hydrolock) after it failed. This is not so much chicken or the egg as much as chicken AND the egg--make that dead chicken and broken eggs! The block is from a 413 industrial engine. They came in big trucks, RVs, agricultural pumps, boats and other similar applications. They are the gold standard for Max Wedge race engines.
I will be watching what you do from here... As a lifelong Mopar Man, I can feel some of your pain. I have a 1971 413 motorhome engine, running w/80 K miles on it. And I have a 1973 Coachman motorhome with a 413 in it also... It runs SWEET with only 26 K ORIGINAL miles on it! Would these be the same blocks?
It was hard to hit the thumbs up button for this. All i can really say is sorry, and been there done that. Scattered my 383 in the lights at PIR many years ago.
Wow... that is totally heartbreaking. I feel for you. I personally couldn't handle the risk of blowing up rare & vintage iron like that. I'd have panic attacks just thinking about it. No stock eliminator for me... For pushing the limits, I'd race newer stuff. lol
Thanks but don't worry, there's nothing original under the hood--the block came out of a motorhome and the 1964 Stage III heads and crossram are fine. We'll be back at the track next year!
*Chris!* Turns out, my guess on cause of death was pretty darn close methinks (as posted a couple videos ago when you asked). I hate it for you man - that's truly *catastrophic* damage and quite grisly to witness. I don't like taking engines 60 over and there y'all are at 70!! *I hope you got my email a couple weeks back requesting a shirt (and offering to pay for it!)* ??? Keep the faith and let us know how you'll be accepting help/fundraising! - Ed on the Ridge
“She blowed up, she blowed up real good” Is there a 383 option? Julie Jordan’s son has done well in a 383 wagon…maybe sell some of your 426 stuff to fund a killer 383?
I used to have a pretty good 383 but that's another story for another day. Isn't Julie's son Jared? He has a '64 Dodge 2 door hard top. He used to run a 426 street wedge even though the car came with a Maxie (which I contemplated buying at one point). He has since seen the light and put together an orange monster to run AA-A-B/SA. Being neighbors with Steve Wann has it's perks! Jerry Stein has been trying to talk me into running a street wedge, they have a very nice HP factor (290!!) but here's the thing--I have a cross ram intake, two very decent Carter AFBs, cam and lifters, and a pair of perhaps the nicest 518 heads in the world for a Max Wedge car. Plus, there isn't much in this world (safe for family viewing) sexier than two carbs on a station wagon!
You don't have to run '64s because Mopar made legal reproduction in the nineties (suck) and then another run (sucks a little less). They're all hard to find. Mopar lists them in their catalog but they haven't had any in stock for over ten years.
Getting ready to buy a 413 block, then bore to 426. Got a pair of wedge heads from Chrysler 12 years ago. Not legal for stock class, will be using good rods and pistons. Thanks for the video.
Good luck!
I have an A64HP SW that came out of a 65 wagon. It wouldn’t be as powerful as the one you blew up but it will get better gas mileage if you decide to make it a daily driver😁 Love the videos! I missed out on the opportunity to guess what happened but I would have to go with wall thickness. Looks like you discovered the “minimum” wall thickness on your Maxie, and it didn't like it. Bummer. But hey thanks for taking one for the team, now we know, (the hard way). “sometimes you have to go through something to learn something.” Be encouraged!
How many times were the rod bolts torqued? After a while they stretch and do not return to length. Did you measure rod bolt stretch assembling the engine or just torque to spec? Non cap screw style rod bolts should be torqued to stretch spec the manufacturer of the rod bolt gives. This is straight from the Direct Connection Book.
If shits gonna go south, it might as well go straight to hell! That's a bummer buddy. Hope you can recoup asap!
engine mc nuggets some times you can be unlucky so sorry for your loss = thank you = well done - win lotto and live happy forever after - make it so !
It’s all fix able, so glad the car and you didn’t spin in the oil you laid down. It sounds like you have lots of good friends to help you out. I have a long love affair with your car, my wife and I took our kids to Vashon for a picnic 20 plus years ago. The wagon was parked in front of a garage or store, I can’t remember which. Good Luck getting it back together, looking forward to seeing it at the track again. Thank You again for the shirt’s.
That block is fixable?
great autopsy!
The block has to be hard blocked. To survive. I don't know how far up. It split a cylinder wall, and the water came in. It's core shift, you can check it with a sonic tester.
Man , it made sick to see that block and its contents. I had a similar expensive incident with my big block Nova and it sat for a few years before I got it back together. I think .30 over is a more practical solution plus you have wiggle room to be legal if a tear down should ever happen. Glad tou have some spare blocks to work with. Hope the cam isn’t dinged up to.
Hi Kim, the cam seems to be okay. We'll be back soon, one way or another. I gave up all my (other) addictions so I could concentrate on drag racing!
Holy smokes, that is some damage! Block, crank, rods, pistons are probably junk. Hopefully, the cam is salvageable. At least, the heads are OK, considering they're rarity. Don't worry about a free T-shirt, you'll need all your money for rebuilding the short block. I figured a rod let go!
hey its Gaffo and Dr bigblock (do you guys still go by that?), didn't know u guys were on the youtubes now! Saw the "incident" first on a video my dad took from the stands. Looked like a big vaporized money cloud! Anyway he's been having fun with my old wagon. I had to go and move my stupid butt to California. Next time he comes out to visit u tell him his son said "Hi" just for the helluvit. I gotta couple old flathead plymouths I'm tinkering with these days. Good luck on the engine build! Be honest with yourself, the build is half the fun and now you have an excuse to build some more!
Good to hear from you. We've been having fun with your dad lately.
Thank you for showing us all what can happen in real time while you are experiencing it. I actually study metal failures for a living, especially castings. I was trying to pause the video to see if where the block failed if there was any evidence of a crack prior. This is kind of easy to tell because you will see the metal a different color of where the fracture was. Like maybe a little rust if you get a magnifying glass. Not that it would do any good to know this however it would be interesting to look. Next time I feel like shifting at 7000 RPMs I will remember your video. Thanks for the great content, sorry this happened to you but you handled it very well.
We can second guess ourselves until the cow come home but you know at the end of the day sh*t happens! I'm pretty sure that the #3 cylinder failed, filled with water and boom! Lots of pressure, lots of RPMs...we're already at work getting another bullet together for next year. You only live once!
I certainly don't have your experience or knowledge about your engine... But as I viewed the carnage, I came to the conclusion of bearing/rod failure after seeing the dark color on the crank journal... Once the bearing/rod let go, then I think they took out the cylinder wall... After a better evaluation can't you agree? With all the ribbing I see on your block, what type of block/year casting was it? I know you will get it right again in good time! Later, Frank Parks at Mopar Restos in Summerville, Ga.
@@frankparks4900 I can't disagree with your conclusion. Of course, much of the mayhem that happened during the event happened because of all the water that entered the cylinder (high RPM hydrolock) after it failed. This is not so much chicken or the egg as much as chicken AND the egg--make that dead chicken and broken eggs! The block is from a 413 industrial engine. They came in big trucks, RVs, agricultural pumps, boats and other similar applications. They are the gold standard for Max Wedge race engines.
I will be watching what you do from here... As a lifelong Mopar Man, I can feel some of your pain. I have a 1971 413 motorhome engine, running w/80 K miles on it. And I have a 1973 Coachman motorhome with a 413 in it also... It runs SWEET with only 26 K ORIGINAL miles on it! Would these be the same blocks?
@@frankparks4900 I bet they probably are.
It was hard to hit the thumbs up button for this. All i can really say is sorry, and been there done that. Scattered my 383 in the lights at PIR many years ago.
Wow... that is totally heartbreaking. I feel for you. I personally couldn't handle the risk of blowing up rare & vintage iron like that. I'd have panic attacks just thinking about it. No stock eliminator for me... For pushing the limits, I'd race newer stuff. lol
Thanks but don't worry, there's nothing original under the hood--the block came out of a motorhome and the 1964 Stage III heads and crossram are fine. We'll be back at the track next year!
Great vid!!!!!!
they used deck plates when they were boring the block? i would like to Buy one of those shirts how can i do it ?
*Chris!*
Turns out, my guess on cause of death was pretty darn close methinks (as posted a couple videos ago when you asked).
I hate it for you man - that's truly *catastrophic* damage and quite grisly to witness.
I don't like taking engines 60 over and there y'all are at 70!!
*I hope you got my email a couple weeks back requesting a shirt (and offering to pay for it!)* ???
Keep the faith and let us know how you'll be accepting help/fundraising!
- Ed on the Ridge
You should be getting your shirt soon. Depends on the mail🙄
@@gaffojones Aww thanks man - NOW, how can we help with some $$$???
EDIT: Shirt and decal arrived today Chris, *THANKS!* - Ed
Is there any video of you racing it when it went south? How about any videos of you racing, period? lol
There’s a link under the last video
The “engine go BOOM” video
“She blowed up, she blowed up real good” Is there a 383 option? Julie Jordan’s son has done well in a 383 wagon…maybe sell some of your 426 stuff to fund a killer 383?
I used to have a pretty good 383 but that's another story for another day. Isn't Julie's son Jared? He has a '64 Dodge 2 door hard top. He used to run a 426 street wedge even though the car came with a Maxie (which I contemplated buying at one point). He has since seen the light and put together an orange monster to run AA-A-B/SA. Being neighbors with Steve Wann has it's perks! Jerry Stein has been trying to talk me into running a street wedge, they have a very nice HP factor (290!!) but here's the thing--I have a cross ram intake, two very decent Carter AFBs, cam and lifters, and a pair of perhaps the nicest 518 heads in the world for a Max Wedge car. Plus, there isn't much in this world (safe for family viewing) sexier than two carbs on a station wagon!
Sorry to hear about your Max breaking. I hope you get it going down the track soon. Do you have to run the ‘64 Max Wedge heads in SE?
You don't have to run '64s because Mopar made legal reproduction in the nineties (suck) and then another run (sucks a little less). They're all hard to find. Mopar lists them in their catalog but they haven't had any in stock for over ten years.
But the heads are good!
Does the class require stock rods? Those look like H beam rods.
Aftermarket rods are okay but the rod/piston combo has to weigh same as stock