How to Replace the front strut on the Ford Escape 2001 - 2017
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- Опубліковано 2 лис 2024
- Do you need to Replace the front strut on your Ford Escape (2001 - 2017) but don't know where to start? This video tutorial shows you step-by-step how to do it!
Our Ford Escape (2001 - 2017) manual covers petrol and diesel engines, and includes videos for some of the most common jobs, which you can see here in this playlist. Get the full manual haynes.com/en-...
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I’ll be replacing the struts on my wife’s 2017 Lincoln MKC sometime this summer. Looks to be a lot of work! I just replaced the shocks and struts (new springs as well) on my 2009 BMW Z4 35i and that was cake compared to this. But, with helpful videos like this I’m sure I can do it and save the labor cost.
Lot of work just to replace a strut
Pretty easy on this car almost a standard on every car , only people who say that are not mechanically inclined
@@TheLostAdventuress I ended up just paying A small shop to do it. I didn’t have the time
@@davidjsouth231I just did both sides and both tie rods inner and outer in 3.5 hours
@@TheLostAdventuress congrats bro not everyone has the time, space or tools to do it
@@xevihc8519 cheaper then labor I can’t afford to take it in. And still got noise over bumps in the front, I think I need to check the lower ball joints a little better.
The title is wrong. The Kuga/Escape shown in this video started in 2013.
I am having a hard time believing the lower strut pinch bolt could survive the 59 ft. lb. torque setting PLUS an additional 180º turn after that! The video cuts off before showing that extra 180º turn. The torque setting I found is 65 ft. lbs.....period no extra 180º turn. Can anyone confirm the right torque?
Thats a lotta dismantling just to replace a strut! one could do a lot of other jobs at the same time. gosh.... the labour cost would be a bomb 🎳. then you'd have to factor in part cost.... hope this car is worth it.
Even the headlines is misleading, I own a 2001 escape & I didn’t have to do any of that!
3:00
Or you could also unplug the sensor. The connecter lock tab is right there at the sensor.
That sensor itself is100% rust jacked into the hub even if you live below the rust belt..
Did that, once I figured out the tab shown in the video needs to just be pressed (down, towards the ground). Simple and took a few seconds. Makes me wonder if this video is good
Must have been nice with a car with minimal rust.
I needed to use my air racket to even have a chance to break those bolts free.
air ratchet has like 90ft lbs of torque🤔
Video was helpful,How ever, I would of taken the wipers and the aprons off first before putting vehicle up in the air(ergonomics).I would of put the wipers and apron back on after car was back down on the ground again(ergonomics). Other than that,good video.
What" year is this vechical ????
Wow...what a piss poor setup. Why make you take all of that stuff off just to replace the struts.
@Niko707 well that's dumb. They need to remove their heads from their asses. But I suppose the designers don't care, they'll just say "oh well that's more service work for the dealership".
It would have been nice if you would have listed wrench sizes and socket sizes needed to perform the job other than that great job!
Every shop ive been to says its a nightmare to do. They all say 5 hrs just for the fronts. Shocks just an hour. The shop that erroneously installed malfunctioning Monroe quick struts got it done in 4 hours. And now i got to take it all apart and put oem in there to save $900. Which after i lost $1800 cause they put in aftermarket struts and shocks and wont warranty anything else but the garbage they put in. Yes my biggest mistake. But i should get my money back on the parts when im done.
Thieves. If you are talking about the back shocks it should take 10 minutes for both in a pro shop. 5 hours for front? 1 hour drinking coffee, 2 hours lunch break and 1 hour idle chatter
I don't think this is all necessary based on what I see in my daughter's 2010 Escape...
DO NOT FOLLOW THIS VIDEO. If you torque down the upper strut mount bolts before dropping the weight of the vehicle on the strut then you will destroy the bearing. I torqued them before like the video says for a 2016 ford escape with monroe quick struts and they were both damaged. Turning the wheel makes a very loud popping noise like rubber squeaking.
Thank you for your advice
I got the same problem on my 2016 what did you do to fix the issue!????
I watched another video that shows what happens if you torque them before the wheel is down. The strut may or may not be seated correctly - if it isn't, then yes the bearing will be destroyed. With weight on the strut, it will seat correctly before the bolts are torqued. I think this whole video is bad, taking nuts and bolts out that you don't need to, means they must be replaced. I am waiting for a strut spreader tool to arrive, I hope to remove the strut with minimal effort
@@alexl8777 You will need new struts. Sue Haynes
Ok good, I’m not the only person realizing you do not need to take off the brakes and all other things.
Why would you need to remove the brakes for this? At most cv, and caliper and sensors. Don’t need to remove shield, rotor, and all that jazz.
I was wondering same..iv put coilovers and springs on so many cars and iv never seen that amount done. These cars suck to work on though.
You’re right. I replaced my struts with only unbolting the tie rod and ball joint. That’s it
There's a much easier way than attempting this nightmare of a job that 99.9% of diy mechanics will fail. Step 1) Start vehicle. Step 2) Drive to the junk yard...or just live with the struts you have like I'm gonna do. 140k on it already..miracle if these make it to 200k anyway.
Especially ecoboost. They are the worst engines.
In true Haynes fashion, things greatly change in the steps shown with no explanation given.
One moment it’s on axle stands and the next it’s on a four poster.
Battery and air box have also mysteriously been removed? Why?
The Haynes manuals of the 1970s were the ones owning. Nowadays it’s grainy pictures on really poor quality paper.
Far better guides than theirs.
You skipped a LOT of steps. Why did you remove the battery (by removing the air cleaner box) before removing the cowl, which would have let you lift the battery out anyway? Then you totally skipped over reassembling everything under the hood. You MUST realign the wipers. Ask me how I know that. This is a really poor video.
I know..nobody seems to realize that by moving the air box..there is a door on the battery box and everyone takes the whole plastic cowl off lol
Double check your video, it’s very misleading. This video it’s not for a 2001
Wtf
NOT for 2001-2012 Struts....Haynes? More like Chil-ton. :-(