I've had a 72 coupe for 20 years now. Here are a few thoughts: 1) Check birdcage and frame. I've seen 2 really nice cars get parted out due to rust. Huge loss. 2) Be patient and save up for the car you really want. But... 3) Some cars are worth more. This is both good and bad. A less valuable car could be much nicer for less money. I bought a 72 small block for this reason. It's a chrome bumper car, but the horse power is a bit lower than earlier years. It's value is also lower which means I could afford to buy it. I later swapped the 200hp 350 for a ZZ4 350 anyway. 4) Paint, body and interior are more expensive to fix than mechanics. A pretty car that won't start is a better buy than an ugly car that runs great. 5) Learn the typical flaws of the years you want to buy. On early cars the clock is not going to work. On latter cars, the bumpers will likely be wavy or warped. I have yet to see a car with a working factory alarm besides mine. 6) Buy the nicest car you can. Spend now, or spend much more latter on.
Ben, thanks. I watched your video as part of my C3 search. Great aid! I bought a base model ‘73 350 L48 4 spd “survivor”: 69000 mi, numbers matching, ps, pb. No rain in 44 years. No snow ever (Ontario, Canada). No rust except surface oxidizing on exposed metal. I followed your guide when inspecting. Thanks again.
I appreciate the video, and I like seeing younger people appreciate the old muscle cars, especially the corvette. If you don't mind, let me add a couple of pointers for people wanting "Project Vettes". (1) - If you are looking for a budget builder, stick to a Mustang or Camaro. Vettes are not cheap to restore. (2) - You mentioned "Decide if you want a Steel Bumper or Fiberglass". Steel bumper C3 Corvettes were made from 68 -72 (73 had a steel rear). 74-82 are known as the rubber bumpers. As a project car, I can promise you that you probably can't afford a Steel Bumper. They are all collector items, and worth a lot of money just based on the VIN number. The 74-76 are the "Flat Glass" cars and many people like these. But don't expect Corvette power because these are the detuned years. The least expensive and lowest value are the 77-79 C3s. Currently no one considers these to ever be collectors. 80-82 are considered by many to be the best looking because of the "Shovel Nose". But they can be found. In the end, the 76 is considered the "Last Stingray" and that carries some weight in the market. Learn your RPO's, and terms like L48,L82, and LT-1. The C3 corvette is a beautiful machine. It is sexy, a great eye catcher, and great to pull up at car shows in. If you are looking to take it out and show up some later mustangs or Camaros, Don't waste your time. A Ford Focus ST will eat your lunch, and todays LS platforms are 4-5 times more powerful than these older Vettes. But I will say... Getting a CS, invest in a cheap intake and cam, followed by some real sidepipes.... you don't have to be fast. People will fear you based on looks and sound alone. Thanks for posting this video. I am 53' years old and have lost count on how many cars I have restored. I am actually looking for an 80-82 Vette right now after selling the 85' IROCZ (pic) I just completed. Side - not - I paid 3k for the IROC, cleaned it up, tuned it, sunk $1300.00 worth of Willwood and Hotchkis parts in it. I sold it for $9500.00. (Mainly because 85 TPI cars are the only REAL IROCS ever made)
Times are changeing. 77-79 those are collectors cars. Maybe not in US, but Europe are buying more and more classic muscle. Half a year ago, you could buy late restorable condition C3 for around 3-6K. Now if you don't have at least 5-6, you can forget it.
Not yet, but in few years who knows? Here in EU we don't have american muscle cars. So far I saw 3 C4 with my eyes, in my life. In my country there are no more than 100 of C3/C4, models and probably less than 20 of C2. It may sounds fun, but there are even less people that know how to repair/restore those cars. How much do you have to pay for C3 in good condition? (76' and up). If I think correctly it would be around 15-20k. In my place for 78' I would have to pay around 28-29k.
I've owned THE ONE 40 years. 1972. Millie Magile Red on Red base 200hp. Coupe, auto, transmission, A/C. Been thur it once and starting again. I saw my first 1968 in 1968 from a school bus, I was 15. I never saw a c1 or c2. Great video.
Ben, I restored my 72 a few years ago. I agree with all your points, I did some research before buying mine and it was well worth it. Now I am thinking of pulling the motor and fixing a few leaks and just giving the 350 a good once over. Thanks for your video's!!
I’ve had an 82 vette for a while now. Low engine power didn’t bother me because of how cheap the owner sold it for. When we showed up the car was in the guys garage and was fine. We took it for a drive and everything seemed alright. What really bothered me though, was the fact that one of the previous owners, or the one we got it from, had just filled in the chipped off paint with a red sharpie. What a joke... still restoring it though. Dash was cracked, tires are very old, weather stripping was dry rotted, but I expected that from an almost 40 year old car. I still love it to death though. Planning on ls-swapping in the future, but for now she’s just a weekend car. All that’s left is new tires and a new victory red paint job and she’s ready to rock and roll. I love seeing other people’s love for c3s. The community is so great and full of amazing people. I’m only 21 but it’s amazing to see older guys and younger still enjoying the cars and being able to come together over them!
On my bucket list , right at the top #1 on the list ! Enjoyed video and learned something from it . While shopping for my Vette I have found that 90% are major projects on wheels , priced like museum Peace's ! Shopping for Vette is an education in details and history ! So thanks for information and Cruze on Vette lovers !
Hey Ben, I gotta say this is an EXCELENT video regardless of minor volume normalisation issues. I am actually bookmarking it so i can send it to all the people that ask about my 77 and how to get one.
I actually didn't get to see this video before I bought my vette but I've been watching your channel for a while now and have learned a lot. I'm glad I did get the c3 I have because judging by all your videos of you working on old ones it's in great shape!
Very intelligent young man for sure! I really enjoyed the video and I appreciate the time and effort he and his girl put into it. Beautiful Corvette too by the way! Thank you for all your hard work!
coming back to this video because a few years ago I decided I was going to buy a C3, watched this video, heard the advice to buy the one you want, bought a great '77 show car,.... and now want to trade it for a convertible, just like I knew in the back of my mind at the time. BUY THE ONE YOU WANT :)
Nice job,had many c-2 and c-3 vettes back in the70s and 80s . I recently retired and decided it was time so i picked up a nice 72 and i am having a great time reliving my youth. thanks,picked up some new tips from the video.
I stumbled across this video and I found it very informative. I am no stranger to buying and restoring 68-72 GM muscle cars and I know their downfalls, but I am now getting interested in a buying a corvette. the bird cage tip alone was worth the time to watch this. Good advice as well regarding deciding up front if you want a hard top, 4speed, auto, etc, versus just wanting a corvette. Audio was rough, but still a good watch.
I bought a 1980 ,without this info, but had a Corvette pro inspect it ( after I bought) but luckily he pointed out important issues, but passed his inspection, shewww,but ben your videos are very helpful thanx, I refer other Corvette owners to you
This guy is only young, but he knows his stuff and the points he makes make sense. I'd love a 1969 C3 Corvette coupe, black on black my dream car...but i ain't got the money....maybe one day!
Great Video, sold my C3 vetted because of the amount of work it did need. All original numbers matching but frame was out of my control and at the time the car was way to much work for me. But now wish I did have the car as it was my first Corvette and should have kept it just for that reason.
I have a 73 L-82 & 70 LT-1 and I went by many of your same rules that came from years of experience. I personally stay away from big blocks but that's just me. Mid or late C3 years. But if you end up with one clean, good condition at a good price grab it. They make every part if needed. lots of horses or not there fun to drive and always put a smile on your face even if you had a bad day. You did a very good video thank you for the tips.
Great vid, but I watched it about a week too late. Definitely some things on here I would have liked to have known before I bought my C3. Got a '75 Stingray. 350, auto (with shift kit), headers, T-tops. The body is pretty rusty underneath, but not as bad as the nightmare scenario you showed, and I'm hoping the "birdcage" is in good shape too. All the suspension bushings are shot, and the steering is really loosey-goosey. Some problems with the headlights coming up (but I think I found a major vacuum leak, so that will probably help), and the interior environmental controls are shot, and my wiper switch is non-existent. Still, I'm hoping I have something decent to start with. The body is straight, and has been recently painted, with only one flaw I've found.
Thanks Ben great tips but there is also those of us that have had our Corvettes since new,no accidents etc but driving year round until 92 and just did a frame on Restoration because removing the body from the frame would of killed the project but we just drive it in summer on sunny days,yes it will stay in family and they know the history,wifes vette early 79 L48 but recent rebuild kept block but smelted heads,kept trans with rebuild,completely redid brakes cooling exhaust and then discovered rear end issue,will have friend drop rear end and go through were trailing arms meet frame repair that as l get rear end rebuilt.l love your videos and thanks for putting out great tips! You do great work!
Thx Ben.... good video...I just bought a '70 Vette coupe.....its not perfect but it's all there and a numbers matching car....part of the fun is going to be fixed the things that need a little work
Thank you for posting a vehicle that allows for transparency . Buying a used vehicle is always a gamble and buying a classic/vintage vehicle is even more so. But here is the reality...Desireable classic cars will always sell regardless of blown engine or missing tranny. Buyers just need to know EXACTLY what is wrong with the car. The problem always in dealing with cars in the 'unknown'...but instead of hiding defects to make a sell ...try being honest and make a sell. Some people are in a position to replace the entire drive train and some are not. Point is for anyone selling a car private or dealer JUST BE UPFRONT about everything that you know about the vehicle you are selling and leave it there. Someone will buy it and then you'll also have made a friend because they know exactly what they are getting in to. From there you won't be receiving nasty phone calls or emails you'll get friendly updates on how they are rebuilding the vehicle. Blessings to all...Honesty just work best guys. Thanks again for your detailed video.
Found my 78 in storage since 98 when the original owner moved away for work. Rebuilt the motor and now replacing the stupid white interior to black. Swept out a shit ton of dust, but is an absolute beauty. Love the good and bad stuff about this car because it is so fun to drive and handles like a dream. May not be the fastest car on campus, but I'll be damned if it doesn't turn more heads and sound sexy like a real v8.
excellent amateur video. only those that have put the time into something like this can appreciate how hard it really is to produce. Nice work, going to look at a 1972 next weekend, and I'm gonna use all you're advise in checking it out.
I was driving home yesterday and I noticed a cherry red C3 for sale on a front lawn. I knock on the owners door and it's an older man. He told me he had this 75 for 20 years and wants to sell it. I really wanted a 73 or older but this 4 speed with a nice paint job for 7k I think was a steal! My wife loves it!
Awesome video, I've learned a lot watching your videos, you explain things in great detail! Also I want to add, in any collector car purchase you need to have a passion for it.. Keep up the great videos!!
I'm up here too man, so glad our water is soft and the rock salt is kept to a minimum 😂 Just went on a road trip to ND, and my god, the amount of visible rust was insane. I'm only 22 right now, but I can't wait for our contract negotiations at my new job, I might actually have the salary here pretty soon to get a C3, and god it would be a dream 🤤
Great presentation! I wish you had been around when I bought my 77 in 1998 and 79 in 1999. A Salvage car. rule 11 Salvage you can buy cheap...but they can be hell to get rid of. I had mine for 10 years and turned it into one great show car, Sold it to a dealer for a 1969 Corvair. Got some money out of it but not near what I put into it. Now do you have a 10 rules for C-2's Rule one They were never called C-2's They were Midyears or Sting Rays. This C-2 junk came after the C-4 came out and they ran out of cool names for the cars. like Sting Ray's and Sharks. Maybe the C-4 should have been called the Electric Vette. LOL
Good job, man. Macon Phillips, Director Technical Services GM Corporation New England Division 1984-2006. "SEE THE USA IN YOUR CHEVROLET". Listen to the gentleman directly after me Mr Getsum I presume. Loads of good advice.
that weather factor is definitely true, there are two corvettes near me that have been outside for a long time in northeast Ohio. one is a 74 that has the body shot and probably a bunch of rust, and there is also a 4 SPEED BIG BLOCK 1968 that was left outside for like 18 years! both were sitting feet away from garages that could've protected them. I wonder if i could sell the 68 for parts and get good money? who knows. I am also frame- offing a 77 that sat for 21 years, it was kept inside. minor rust in the rear wheel arches, but the only rust hole is just an opened up rear drain slot, and i know how to weld, so thats all figured out.
Absolutely superb brother. Your video was fantastic and informative. Thanks so much for putting in the effort. I'm looking at an un molested 1971 manual convertible. It looks like an honest car with original paint and a few stone chips. I'm so tempted and this video will lead me at least in the right direction. Cheers again.
Thanks for the pointers! Bought a 78 and it's super clean and big block Chevy. Yep just a stock 496 c I with 12 to one compression. Ha Ha Ha Well not stock but body is and a sleeper. When the last time you saw a fast 78 Corvette, like two stage NOS drive to grocery store Vette. Funny thing is my handicap tag on a full cage car. It's just old guy's last hot rod. Purple gas and swing out bars on cage so I can get my old body in. You have great advice that should save some heart break to other!! Fine job thanks!
@@mikeholland1031 very true but upgraded to a big block 496 but now just finished putting a 540 ci big block again with 2 stage nitrous running a built 400 turbo and still have a handicap tag. On the street just running 200 HP boost per stage. No a/c, radio,p/s ,p/b , carpet . But carbon fiber dash, lexan windows, full cage, carbon fiber rear spring, Weld Pro lite wheels with Mickey Thompson dot bias slicks and skinny on frt. But good call only smog hog 350/165hp that year except California was only thinking 140 HP. Now has power it need low boost 1100 HP on 93 octane or E-85 for more HP.
Good video ! I bought a 1975 c3 that had been in storage for 10 yrs . I was told it had all matching numbers . When I checked the engine it was a 255 out of a 1955 truck lol . It's ok I had already planned a 5.3 ls twin turbo swap so still happy except douche bag seller . Frame body and bird cage perfect !
Great video. Im looking at buying my first ever corvette project car and I can say im a bit nervous; this video really helped alleviate some of the worry. Thanks
Great video! I don't own a Corvette or wish to buy one but there is a lot of transferable wisdom here when dealing with any older car. Great C3 here, what a handsome design. Perhaps as close to timeless styling as one can get in a car.
The C3 are the nicest VETTE , the 79, 80, 81, 82 are the best of all...they have real seats, not only some kind of bench. Very well done clip BTW, would ad may be something. If you wish to buy a C3, first thing to check is the spare...it tells all the story of the car...beleive me, did had nearly 30 to date...
Should also note that these cars got better as the years went by. More refined, better aerodynamics, better looks, better suspension, weight savings, a bit safer, etc. With coupe being preferred over convertible due to the much better frame. Also, manual being preferred over automatic due to weight savings and efficiency. The later years, specifically the 80-82, are much cheaper too, so you can get a better car for less. Should also look at small block engines instead of big block for the weight savings, and ease of power modifications.
Kavinsky Smith I gotta agree. Both bumpers (front &rear) blow on 80-82 cars. My dad was flippin new Corvettes thru the 70s. Believe it or not hardloaded L48 automatic cars were the mainstay of the Corvette market in middle America during that era. The insurance issues that killed the muscle cars was still in place. For most people the L48 automatic Corvettes were easier to insure. Leather, pwr windows, pwr locks, cruise control, am fm cb(!) in dash, 4 speaker stereos, etc etc. Those were the in demand options for them L48 Automatic cars in the st louis, tulsa, okc, dallas/ftw sales demographic. I was bustin my dads ball$ for ordering up these wimpy "Caddy Vettes". So pops let me order several. I ordered my first Corvette in Oct 78. A 79 Blk over red leather interior l82, 4spd, gymkanna suspension, close ratio 4spd. I clicked every hotrod box there was! I ordered it with the Pace Car front and rear spoilers. That cars build was hung up by that spoiler option until Jan 79. GM had some sort of supply issue with those spoilers. "We expect the spoilers to arrive and your car built in the next 3 weeks". I axed the spoilers and 3 weeks latter had the car around Feb 79. That car arrived on Pace Car bright finnished versions of the standard alumn corvette wheel. That Gymkhanna Suspension package really gave them cars "Stance". I spent about 400 man hrs color sanding that Black car by hand while daily driving it. I broke it in nice and right. That car drove and handled pretty respectable. It really put the L48 Autos to shame. More so than printed specs suggest.
Like your videos, great job..but I would just like to add something that I'm sure you're already aware of. Not everyone can get the vette of their dreams, cost being a main issue. A lot of the earlier C3's are now astronomically priced and out of reach for many ppl. They are simply not feasible. Unfortunately, in life sometimes, yes, you just have to settle.... because for some, it can mean the difference between owning one or not. Btw, I just got myself a 75 corvette (long time coming) using your rules, its not perfect but I'm more than happy with it. :)
Great video, and nice Vette! I had 5 C3 Vette's in the past (not all at once), when I was a kid, these UA-cam videos would have helped me, but there was no internet at the time! :D Good tips on the "birdcage"; it sucks that so many of these C3's leak; that used to drive me crazy; although I did pretty well with mine; only 1 of mine leaked substantially... ***I also noticed that these C3's blast heat out at your legs; that drove me crazy too; but I still love C3's...
+Uncle Bacala Theater my '76 never leaks and the Vintage Aire keeps it freezing inside during the hottest days of the Virginia summers... you have to restore them or they are junk; Chevrolet: Constantly Having Every Vehicle Recalled Over Lousy Engineering Techniques...
This is great info, thanks, I've tossed around buying a Vette for a long time and i just never panned out, recently I was looking at a 81 and the paint was bubbling around the rear pillars, upon doing some research I found that in 81 Vettes were made in St Louis with the old paint facility and lacquer and in Kentucky in a new facility with enamel, the car in question was built in St Louis, it was repainted but I think they may have goofed in prep from the lacquer hence the bubbles, some big ones.
905Alive That is a possibility, C3s are notorious for being "quality challenged", with the bowling green cars having the best build quality. Are you sure that car had original paint? I have only found a few C3s that have not been repainted at one point.
TheCorvetteBen in my last line it was definately "recently" repainted, which really scared me, love the car, 51k documented miles, 4sp, but bubbling paint ugh, didn't look like any panels had been messed with and body lines were good, I think it had the typical st louis bad paint and they repainted it to try and flip it, it was actually at a high dollar classic car shop that does restorations, I should have bought one new back then
Great vid! Liked and sub’d! Starting soon on a ‘75...wish me luck...(never had the opportunity to check the items you mention). Keep the vids coming please.
Follow-up. I watched your awesome video again and I must have overlooked it the first time. Between 4:00 and 4:40 in the video, I see you encountered the same exact issue that I had during my project. Not sure how you finally resolved the issue on your end, but mine took a lot of work and countless hours trying to get it resolved. How did you accomplish this? For those who didn't notice, only a trained restoration expert would have paid attention to that thing in the background that can be a huge problem. Not sure what others call it, but I labeled mine a "Wife". Always the biggest challenge on any restoration project.
7 years ago I was originally going to buy a C3 Corvette. It needed a bunch of work literally anywhere you looked. Until I saw a '91 C4 that till this day I still own and drive :)
No matter how much money and work you put into it, there is always more to do for the next owner. I have thought of this as I am some $35,000 into my 69 Stingray yet you could go on and on. I loved the challenge, restoring it back to what it once was, as when I started it looked like a 69 vette in appearance only, it was a shell of what it was originally. It was an expensive addition, but I also added the rag top, just because I wanted a 2 top vette. Will I ever recover all the work and money invested? Who knows, but I had fun.
I got exactly what I wanted. A white 1976 coupe. STOCK rally wheels, not some 20" trash from the ghetto. Corvettes are not that different from other vintage cars. The main thing to look for is rust, and damage caused by an accident. Unfortunately this stuff can be harder to find on a Corvette, because the fiberglass body covers up a lot of the "birdcage" frame. Check for proper fitment of doors and hood. The main place other than under the bodywork and windshield trim is around where the body bolts to the frame. The frame tends to rust in that area, and the threads where the body mount bolts go can rust completely out. Also, while almost every part is available for these cars, the body mount bolts are not. Most of these cars will have minor cracks in the body, especially around the flat back window. If they aren't too bad, consider it normal. Unfortunately, despite their drop dead gorgeous styling, these cars were not built very well. Mechanically they are the same as any other car, with only a couple of exceptions. The rear suspension can be a nightmare to work on, and it will probably need rebuilding. Some of it you can do, some will need to be done by a shop. The front suspension is the same as any other car, other than the Power steering, which uses a hydraulic cylinder in the steering linkage. Count on rebuilding both the front and rear suspension and steering. The original brakes had unlined aluminum calipers, which quickly corroded and leaked. I doubt there are still any of those still out there, the fix was to rebuild the oem calipers with a steel bore. The interior will likely need a lot of work. They were very poor quality to begin with and have not held up well. Engine and transmission are just like any other car. Mine has a new GM crate 350 small block and a TH350 automatic transmission. If you are not worried about matching numbers, just drop in a new engine/transmission and be done with it. Unless you are buying a seriously high dollar totally restored car, plan on spending several thousand to get it right. Do you want a show car, or a daily driver? Figure that out before you actually buy a car.
When i see the prices over there compared to what we'd pay here in Australia for the same thing, a tear developes in my eye and then severe rage arises that we get so ripped off with prices across the board here, a $16k vette in U.S could well be $50k here. RHD conversion would be on top of that, prob 7-10K more.
I've owned my 1972 coupe Mille Migille Red for 40 years. 3rd owner. I've been thur my car once..just overhauled complete brake system, u joints, emergency system, master cylinder. drill rotors, new caliber, seals, bearings. A/C next.
I have one more. Test drive ANY C3 over some pot holes or a train track crossing or something. If you don't shit your pants at the sheer chaos that will ensue, and live through the experience, and still like the car then maybe its made to be. I ran as fast as I can go away from the pile that is the C3.
Wow never see anything about a 79 corvette bubble glass. I have one and it is great. Number matching very fast 4 speed good times 110 in third gear hit 4th and no Idea how fast it was going. What a rush!!!
At least you have a Tx car. Try buying an Ohio Corvette... those frames slowly rot overtime even in storage and the box section in front of the rear wheels is a weak spot. I had a 70 350-350 4 speed coupe that had that problem. Some guys drove up from Houston to buy it! It was a great car for the price I sold it for.
11:17 Probably it was late model (1978 or 1979). Wheels are nice, whole styling is resembling Eckler's Can Am bodywork. It's hard to tell from only 2 photos and low res on top of that, but to me it's looking as pretty good project car (note, only IF everything is molded in correctly). You can easily buy body parts from acivette. Also if someone bother with that many body mods, you could expect, that frame and suspension are in decent shape (otherwise it doesn't have any sense). If you can see on the photos that some critical parts have been replaced/restored (e.g: new carb, fan, radiator), you can bet that other stuff is in good condition too (it's not a rule though). But of course looking in person, the thing you buy is the best. Also about VIN on engine block. Some people tend to grind it down, after restoration. One more thing to rule 10, after purchase you have to buy AIM with correct year. AIM is a must have.
I think it might have been an earlier one based on the back window, but we will never know. I saw this on ebay years and years ago, and I WISH I had saved more of the pics! Live and learn!
Very informative. I am interested in the '82 collector's edition. I now have a '93 40th aniversary, a '94 convertable and a '04 Z06 commerative edition. Wouldn't it be cool to have a corvette from each generation?
As an owner of a low milage 68, a 74 454 roadster and a 77, all were impulse buys and all checked off a box on a list. I buy KNOWING I will put money into them. Who buys a used car expecting otherwise. I just picked up an 87 driver for $500 and will pick up another 87 driver for free this summer, I live and breathe Corvettes. Any condition is good condition. Everything can be fixed easier than a relationship with a modern woman. Have fun and keep the rubber side down.
And most of them have been wrecked at one time or another. I’ve had three of them, bought two brand new and one used. Wrecked one of the brand new ones and had it repaired.
I've had a 72 coupe for 20 years now. Here are a few thoughts:
1) Check birdcage and frame. I've seen 2 really nice cars get parted out due to rust. Huge loss.
2) Be patient and save up for the car you really want. But...
3) Some cars are worth more. This is both good and bad. A less valuable car could be much nicer for less money.
I bought a 72 small block for this reason. It's a chrome bumper car, but the horse power is a bit lower than earlier years. It's value is also lower which means I could afford to buy it. I later swapped the 200hp 350 for a ZZ4 350 anyway.
4) Paint, body and interior are more expensive to fix than mechanics. A pretty car that won't start is a better buy than an ugly car that runs great.
5) Learn the typical flaws of the years you want to buy. On early cars the clock is not going to work. On latter cars, the bumpers will likely be wavy or warped. I have yet to see a car with a working factory alarm besides mine.
6) Buy the nicest car you can. Spend now, or spend much more latter on.
Gasdon Flag where did you buy your c3. i was looking to buy one that would need a retoration. any tips?
These are some good tips thank you.
Ben, thanks. I watched your video as part of my C3 search. Great aid! I bought a base model ‘73 350 L48 4 spd “survivor”: 69000 mi, numbers matching, ps, pb. No rain in 44 years. No snow ever (Ontario, Canada). No rust except surface oxidizing on exposed metal. I followed your guide when inspecting. Thanks again.
I appreciate the video, and I like seeing younger people appreciate the old muscle cars, especially the corvette. If you don't mind, let me add a couple of pointers for people wanting "Project Vettes". (1) - If you are looking for a budget builder, stick to a Mustang or Camaro. Vettes are not cheap to restore. (2) - You mentioned "Decide if you want a Steel Bumper or Fiberglass". Steel bumper C3 Corvettes were made from 68 -72 (73 had a steel rear). 74-82 are known as the rubber bumpers. As a project car, I can promise you that you probably can't afford a Steel Bumper. They are all collector items, and worth a lot of money just based on the VIN number. The 74-76 are the "Flat Glass" cars and many people like these. But don't expect Corvette power because these are the detuned years. The least expensive and lowest value are the 77-79 C3s. Currently no one considers these to ever be collectors. 80-82 are considered by many to be the best looking because of the "Shovel Nose". But they can be found. In the end, the 76 is considered the "Last Stingray" and that carries some weight in the market. Learn your RPO's, and terms like L48,L82, and LT-1. The C3 corvette is a beautiful machine. It is sexy, a great eye catcher, and great to pull up at car shows in. If you are looking to take it out and show up some later mustangs or Camaros, Don't waste your time. A Ford Focus ST will eat your lunch, and todays LS platforms are 4-5 times more powerful than these older Vettes. But I will say... Getting a CS, invest in a cheap intake and cam, followed by some real sidepipes.... you don't have to be fast. People will fear you based on looks and sound alone. Thanks for posting this video. I am 53' years old and have lost count on how many cars I have restored. I am actually looking for an 80-82 Vette right now after selling the 85' IROCZ (pic) I just completed. Side - not - I paid 3k for the IROC, cleaned it up, tuned it, sunk $1300.00 worth of Willwood and Hotchkis parts in it. I sold it for $9500.00. (Mainly because 85 TPI cars are the only REAL IROCS ever made)
GetsumJ Some very good points! Thanks for watching!
Times are changeing. 77-79 those are collectors cars. Maybe not in US, but Europe are buying more and more classic muscle. Half a year ago, you could buy late restorable condition C3 for around 3-6K.
Now if you don't have at least 5-6, you can forget it.
Thanks BOT. I can't help but wonder if a market will ever exist for the C4.
Not yet, but in few years who knows?
Here in EU we don't have american muscle cars. So far I saw 3 C4 with my eyes, in my life. In my country there are no more than 100 of C3/C4, models and probably less than 20 of C2. It may sounds fun, but there are even less people that know how to repair/restore those cars. How much do you have to pay for C3 in good condition? (76' and up). If I think correctly it would be around 15-20k. In my place for 78' I would have to pay around 28-29k.
BOTmaster15 you can get a nice late c3 runs and drives for 6k dollars (paint will be old it might have an electrical problem or something minor)
I've owned THE ONE 40 years. 1972. Millie Magile Red on Red base 200hp. Coupe, auto, transmission, A/C. Been thur it once and starting again. I saw my first 1968 in 1968 from a school bus, I was 15. I never saw a c1 or c2. Great video.
Ben, I restored my 72 a few years ago. I agree with all your points, I did some research before buying mine and it was well worth it. Now I am thinking of pulling the motor and fixing a few leaks and just giving the 350 a good once over. Thanks for your video's!!
I’ve had an 82 vette for a while now. Low engine power didn’t bother me because of how cheap the owner sold it for. When we showed up the car was in the guys garage and was fine. We took it for a drive and everything seemed alright. What really bothered me though, was the fact that one of the previous owners, or the one we got it from, had just filled in the chipped off paint with a red sharpie. What a joke... still restoring it though. Dash was cracked, tires are very old, weather stripping was dry rotted, but I expected that from an almost 40 year old car. I still love it to death though. Planning on ls-swapping in the future, but for now she’s just a weekend car. All that’s left is new tires and a new victory red paint job and she’s ready to rock and roll. I love seeing other people’s love for c3s. The community is so great and full of amazing people. I’m only 21 but it’s amazing to see older guys and younger still enjoying the cars and being able to come together over them!
On my bucket list , right at the top #1 on the list ! Enjoyed video and learned something from it . While shopping for my Vette I have found that 90% are major projects on wheels , priced like museum Peace's ! Shopping for Vette is an education in details and history ! So thanks for information and Cruze on Vette lovers !
Hey Ben, I gotta say this is an EXCELENT video regardless of minor volume normalisation issues.
I am actually bookmarking it so i can send it to all the people that ask about my 77 and how to get one.
I actually didn't get to see this video before I bought my vette but I've been watching your channel for a while now and have learned a lot. I'm glad I did get the c3 I have because judging by all your videos of you working on old ones it's in great shape!
Very intelligent young man for sure! I really enjoyed the video and I appreciate the time and effort he and his girl put into it. Beautiful Corvette too by the way! Thank you for all your hard work!
10 rules... I'd like to think I only need to follow one if I where ever to get a c3. Take Ben!
In your case, yes I would go with you to buy a C3 anyday
!
I just bought a 1975 convertible 4speed L82 with very low miles Red with Red Leather White top. A ton of good info in this video Good Job
coming back to this video because a few years ago I decided I was going to buy a C3, watched this video, heard the advice to buy the one you want, bought a great '77 show car,.... and now want to trade it for a convertible, just like I knew in the back of my mind at the time. BUY THE ONE YOU WANT :)
thanks for the info in this bro, really. almost bought a basketcase 77 C3 with birdcage issues you probably saved me thousands
Nice job,had many c-2 and c-3 vettes back in the70s and 80s . I recently retired and decided it was time so i picked up a nice 72 and i am having a great time reliving my youth. thanks,picked up some new tips from the video.
I stumbled across this video and I found it very informative. I am no stranger to buying and restoring 68-72 GM muscle cars and I know their downfalls, but I am now getting interested in a buying a corvette. the bird cage tip alone was worth the time to watch this. Good advice as well regarding deciding up front if you want a hard top, 4speed, auto, etc, versus just wanting a corvette. Audio was rough, but still a good watch.
Rule #1: AKA the 'Corvette Tax'. I have a 72 Stingray and I know all about it. Cheers for the vid!
I bought a 1980 ,without this info, but had a Corvette pro inspect it ( after I bought) but luckily he pointed out important issues, but passed his inspection, shewww,but ben your videos are very helpful thanx, I refer other Corvette owners to you
Great video describing what to look for when buying a Corvette.
Thanks for your post. I have a 79 all original that is my first Corvette, and I love driving it! Thank you again.
Thank you. Im looking at a 74 convertible this week and feel better prepared
The best Advisory Video I’ve ever seen. Thanks,
This guy is only young, but he knows his stuff and the points he makes make sense. I'd love a 1969 C3 Corvette coupe, black on black my dream car...but i ain't got the money....maybe one day!
Great Video, sold my C3 vetted because of the amount of work it did need. All original numbers matching but frame was out of my control and at the time the car was way to much work for me. But now wish I did have the car as it was my first Corvette and should have kept it just for that reason.
Sound advice there, Young Man. Thank You!
I was just given an 82 Corvette. I'm so freaking nervous to see what condition its in. This video helped a lot.
Bad fi
I have a 73 L-82 & 70 LT-1 and I went by many of your same rules that came from years of experience. I personally stay away from big blocks but that's just me. Mid or late C3 years. But if you end up with one clean, good condition at a good price grab it. They make every part if needed. lots of horses or not there fun to drive and always put a smile on your face even if you had a bad day. You did a very good video thank you for the tips.
Great vid, but I watched it about a week too late. Definitely some things on here I would have liked to have known before I bought my C3. Got a '75 Stingray. 350, auto (with shift kit), headers, T-tops. The body is pretty rusty underneath, but not as bad as the nightmare scenario you showed, and I'm hoping the "birdcage" is in good shape too. All the suspension bushings are shot, and the steering is really loosey-goosey. Some problems with the headlights coming up (but I think I found a major vacuum leak, so that will probably help), and the interior environmental controls are shot, and my wiper switch is non-existent. Still, I'm hoping I have something decent to start with. The body is straight, and has been recently painted, with only one flaw I've found.
can't hardly hear you on this video.
Excellent video. Valuable practical information briefly and concisely presented.
Thank you
Thanks Ben great tips but there is also those of us that have had our Corvettes since new,no accidents etc but driving year round until 92 and just did a frame on Restoration because removing the body from the frame would of killed the project but we just drive it in summer on sunny days,yes it will stay in family and they know the history,wifes vette early 79 L48 but recent rebuild kept block but smelted heads,kept trans with rebuild,completely redid brakes cooling exhaust and then discovered rear end issue,will have friend drop rear end and go through were trailing arms meet frame repair that as l get rear end rebuilt.l love your videos and thanks for putting out great tips! You do great work!
Thank you Ben for this interesting video. Greetings from Italy.
i just got a 76 bored to 383 4spd manual. everything in your vid checked out. you da man thumbs up
Not just bored. Different crank too.
Thx Ben.... good video...I just bought a '70 Vette coupe.....its not perfect but it's all there and a numbers matching car....part of the fun is going to be fixed the things that need a little work
Thank you for posting a vehicle that allows for transparency . Buying a used vehicle is always a gamble and buying a classic/vintage vehicle is even more so.
But here is the reality...Desireable classic cars will always sell regardless of blown engine or missing tranny. Buyers just need to know EXACTLY what is wrong with the car.
The problem always in dealing with cars in the 'unknown'...but instead of hiding defects to make a sell ...try being honest and make a sell. Some people are in a position to
replace the entire drive train and some are not. Point is for anyone selling a car private or dealer JUST BE UPFRONT about everything that you know about the vehicle you are
selling and leave it there. Someone will buy it and then you'll also have made a friend because they know exactly what they are getting in to. From there you won't be receiving
nasty phone calls or emails you'll get friendly updates on how they are rebuilding the vehicle. Blessings to all...Honesty just work best guys.
Thanks again for your detailed video.
Thanks for the video, I'm considering purchasing one and don't know too much about them, until now.
Excellent video thank you so much! Corvette enthusiast here. Looking to sell my C5 and buy a C3 and this is invaluable information
Found my 78 in storage since 98 when the original owner moved away for work. Rebuilt the motor and now replacing the stupid white interior to black. Swept out a shit ton of dust, but is an absolute beauty. Love the good and bad stuff about this car because it is so fun to drive and handles like a dream. May not be the fastest car on campus, but I'll be damned if it doesn't turn more heads and sound sexy like a real v8.
excellent amateur video. only those that have put the time into something like this can appreciate how hard it really is to produce. Nice work, going to look at a 1972 next weekend, and I'm gonna use all you're advise in checking it out.
If you go to a dealer to see your dream car....and he's washing the car" just for you"...he's hiding leaks.
Great Channel BTW.
I was driving home yesterday and I noticed a cherry red C3 for sale on a front lawn. I knock on the owners door and it's an older man. He told me he had this 75 for 20 years and wants to sell it. I really wanted a 73 or older but this 4 speed with a nice paint job for 7k I think was a steal! My wife loves it!
Awesome video, I've learned a lot watching your videos, you explain things in great detail! Also I want to add, in any collector car purchase you need to have a passion for it.. Keep up the great videos!!
Up here in Washington state, we don't use salt on our roads and my 76' is almost rust free.
I'm up here too man, so glad our water is soft and the rock salt is kept to a minimum 😂 Just went on a road trip to ND, and my god, the amount of visible rust was insane. I'm only 22 right now, but I can't wait for our contract negotiations at my new job, I might actually have the salary here pretty soon to get a C3, and god it would be a dream 🤤
Great presentation! I wish you had been around when I bought my 77 in 1998 and 79 in 1999. A Salvage car. rule 11 Salvage you can buy cheap...but they can be hell to get rid of. I had mine for 10 years and turned it into one great show car, Sold it to a dealer for a 1969 Corvair. Got some money out of it but not near what I put into it.
Now do you have a 10 rules for C-2's Rule one They were never called C-2's They were Midyears or Sting Rays. This C-2 junk came after the C-4 came out and they ran out of cool names for the cars. like Sting Ray's and Sharks. Maybe the C-4 should have been called the Electric Vette. LOL
Good job, man. Macon Phillips, Director Technical Services GM Corporation New England Division 1984-2006. "SEE THE USA IN YOUR CHEVROLET". Listen to the gentleman directly after me Mr Getsum I presume. Loads of good advice.
Great video,very informative.I agree with GetsumJ, it's nice to see the younger crowd keeping these cars on the road.👍
Thanks mate for a great video, looking myself to buy a Corvette replacing the 2012 HSV Clubsport R8 I have.
Keep those video's coming.
that weather factor is definitely true, there are two corvettes near me that have been outside for a long time in northeast Ohio. one is a 74 that has the body shot and probably a bunch of rust, and there is also a 4 SPEED BIG BLOCK 1968 that was left outside for like 18 years! both were sitting feet away from garages that could've protected them. I wonder if i could sell the 68 for parts and get good money? who knows. I am also frame- offing a 77 that sat for 21 years, it was kept inside. minor rust in the rear wheel arches, but the only rust hole is just an opened up rear drain slot, and i know how to weld, so thats all figured out.
Absolutely superb brother. Your video was fantastic and informative. Thanks so much for putting in the effort. I'm looking at an un molested 1971 manual convertible. It looks like an honest car with original paint and a few stone chips. I'm so tempted and this video will lead me at least in the right direction. Cheers again.
Would be great if I could hear it!
geez, dude, I didn't even want to byu a corvette, but if...... you're my first adress for it...!!!! great job, really, I love it !!!!
Thanks for the pointers! Bought a 78 and it's super clean and big block Chevy. Yep just a stock 496 c I with 12 to one compression. Ha Ha Ha Well not stock but body is and a sleeper. When the last time you saw a fast 78 Corvette, like two stage NOS drive to grocery store Vette. Funny thing is my handicap tag on a full cage car. It's just old guy's last hot rod. Purple gas and swing out bars on cage so I can get my old body in. You have great advice that should save some heart break to other!! Fine job thanks!
No 496ci and no 396 that year.
@@mikeholland1031 very true but upgraded to a big block 496 but now just finished putting a 540 ci big block again with 2 stage nitrous running a built 400 turbo and still have a handicap tag. On the street just running 200 HP boost per stage. No a/c, radio,p/s ,p/b , carpet . But carbon fiber dash, lexan windows, full cage, carbon fiber rear spring, Weld Pro lite wheels with Mickey Thompson dot bias slicks and skinny on frt. But good call only smog hog 350/165hp that year except California was only thinking 140 HP. Now has power it need low boost 1100 HP on 93 octane or E-85 for more HP.
@@stephenmitchell3569 so why put stock 496?
Good video ! I bought a 1975 c3 that had been in storage for 10 yrs . I was told it had all matching numbers . When I checked the engine it was a 255 out of a 1955 truck lol . It's ok I had already planned a 5.3 ls twin turbo swap so still happy except douche bag seller . Frame body and bird cage perfect !
what did ya pay for it lol also bet that thing fucking rips with the new motor
Great video. Im looking at buying my first ever corvette project car and I can say im a bit nervous; this video really helped alleviate some of the worry.
Thanks
Tony Anthony Just remember there are always Corvettes for sale, and will always be another. Make sure you buy the right one.
i watched this video hoping to learn something (as a 42 year old man). Good job, you taught me something.
Great video! I don't own a Corvette or wish to buy one but there is a lot of transferable wisdom here when dealing with any older car.
Great C3 here, what a handsome design. Perhaps as close to timeless styling as one can get in a car.
Thanks for video Bud..extremely helpful. You covered alot of my thoughts...that I felt I should take a look at before I purchase one.
The C3 are the nicest VETTE , the 79, 80, 81, 82 are the best of all...they have real seats, not only some kind of bench. Very well done clip BTW, would ad may be something. If you wish to buy a C3, first thing to check is the spare...it tells all the story of the car...beleive me, did had nearly 30 to date...
+algir2u IF there is a spare to check! I have seen many who have trashed the whole spare tire tub, the spare along with it!
+algir2u ...agree, I like the 79 to 82 models, myself
82 has cross fire. Garbage
Should also note that these cars got better as the years went by. More refined, better aerodynamics, better looks, better suspension, weight savings, a bit safer, etc. With coupe being preferred over convertible due to the much better frame. Also, manual being preferred over automatic due to weight savings and efficiency. The later years, specifically the 80-82, are much cheaper too, so you can get a better car for less.
Should also look at small block engines instead of big block for the weight savings, and ease of power modifications.
Domobomb It all depends on who you ask
TheCorvetteBen
indeed, I think the 80 - 82's are ugly, and you can retrofit the changed rear suspension of those to an earlier car anyways.
Kavinsky Smith
I gotta agree. Both bumpers (front &rear) blow on 80-82 cars. My dad was flippin new Corvettes thru the 70s. Believe it or not hardloaded L48 automatic cars were the mainstay of the Corvette market in middle America during that era.
The insurance issues that killed the muscle cars was still in place. For most people the L48 automatic Corvettes were easier to insure. Leather, pwr windows, pwr locks, cruise control, am fm cb(!) in dash, 4 speaker stereos, etc etc. Those were the in demand options for them L48 Automatic cars in the st louis, tulsa, okc, dallas/ftw sales demographic.
I was bustin my dads ball$ for ordering up these wimpy "Caddy Vettes". So pops let me order several. I ordered my first Corvette in Oct 78. A 79 Blk over red leather interior l82, 4spd, gymkanna suspension, close ratio 4spd. I clicked every hotrod box there was! I ordered it with the Pace Car front and rear spoilers. That cars build was hung up by that spoiler option until Jan 79. GM had some sort of supply issue with those spoilers. "We expect the spoilers to arrive and your car built in the next 3 weeks". I axed the spoilers and 3 weeks latter had the car around Feb 79.
That car arrived on Pace Car bright finnished versions of the standard alumn corvette wheel. That Gymkhanna Suspension package really gave them cars "Stance". I spent about 400 man hrs color sanding that Black car by hand while daily driving it. I broke it in nice and right. That car drove and handled pretty respectable. It really put the L48 Autos to shame. More so than printed specs suggest.
although is a bit old - I really appreciate the Tipps - Thank you! Greets from Austria
Like your videos, great job..but I would just like to add something that I'm sure you're already aware of. Not everyone can get the vette of their dreams, cost being a main issue. A lot of the earlier C3's are now astronomically priced and out of reach for many ppl. They are simply not feasible. Unfortunately, in life sometimes, yes, you just have to settle.... because for some, it can mean the difference between owning one or not. Btw, I just got myself a 75 corvette (long time coming) using your rules, its not perfect but I'm more than happy with it. :)
Great video, and nice Vette!
I had 5 C3 Vette's in the past (not all at once), when I was a kid, these UA-cam videos would have helped me, but there was no internet at the time! :D
Good tips on the "birdcage"; it sucks that so many of these C3's leak; that used to drive me crazy; although I did pretty well with mine; only 1 of mine leaked substantially...
***I also noticed that these C3's blast heat out at your legs; that drove me crazy too; but I still love C3's...
+Uncle Bacala Theater my '76 never leaks and the Vintage Aire keeps it freezing inside during the hottest days of the Virginia summers... you have to restore them or they are junk; Chevrolet: Constantly Having Every Vehicle Recalled Over Lousy Engineering Techniques...
Your a very smart kid. Thanks a lot for the help. God bless you
This is great info, thanks, I've tossed around buying a Vette for a long time and i just never panned out, recently I was looking at a 81 and the paint was bubbling around the rear pillars, upon doing some research I found that in 81 Vettes were made in St Louis with the old paint facility and lacquer and in Kentucky in a new facility with enamel, the car in question was built in St Louis, it was repainted but I think they may have goofed in prep from the lacquer hence the bubbles, some big ones.
905Alive That is a possibility, C3s are notorious for being "quality challenged", with the bowling green cars having the best build quality. Are you sure that car had original paint? I have only found a few C3s that have not been repainted at one point.
TheCorvetteBen in my last line it was definately "recently" repainted, which really scared me, love the car, 51k documented miles, 4sp, but bubbling paint ugh, didn't look like any panels had been messed with and body lines were good, I think it had the typical st louis bad paint and they repainted it to try and flip it, it was actually at a high dollar classic car shop that does restorations, I should have bought one new back then
plus I saw one hit a sapling 1" dia tree once and it disintegrated so I'm cautious to say the least
Great vid! Liked and sub’d! Starting soon on a ‘75...wish me luck...(never had the opportunity to check the items you mention). Keep the vids coming please.
Follow-up. I watched your awesome video again and I must have overlooked it the first time. Between 4:00 and 4:40 in the video, I see you encountered the same exact issue that I had during my project. Not sure how you finally resolved the issue on your end, but mine took a lot of work and countless hours trying to get it resolved. How did you accomplish this? For those who didn't notice, only a trained restoration expert would have paid attention to that thing in the background that can be a huge problem. Not sure what others call it, but I labeled mine a "Wife". Always the biggest challenge on any restoration project.
7 years ago I was originally going to buy a C3 Corvette. It needed a bunch of work literally anywhere you looked. Until I saw a '91 C4 that till this day I still own and drive :)
No matter how much money and work you put into it, there is always more to do for the next owner. I have thought of this as I am some $35,000 into my 69 Stingray yet you could go on and on. I loved the challenge, restoring it back to what it once was, as when I started it looked like a 69 vette in appearance only, it was a shell of what it was originally. It was an expensive addition, but I also added the rag top, just because I wanted a 2 top vette. Will I ever recover all the work and money invested? Who knows, but I had fun.
Hey bud, great video! Looking for my first stingray, real excited...and scared haha. Thanks for the tips!
I love C3's, have two now, have had 15. Easy to fix, except door handles, I have fat fingers, you know the back nut!
Thank you for your insight. Very helpful 👌
Excellent video my friend!!!
Great video, very informative. thanks for that.
I got exactly what I wanted. A white 1976 coupe. STOCK rally wheels, not some 20" trash from the ghetto. Corvettes are not that different from other vintage cars. The main thing to look for is rust, and damage caused by an accident. Unfortunately this stuff can be harder to find on a Corvette, because the fiberglass body covers up a lot of the "birdcage" frame. Check for proper fitment of doors and hood. The main place other than under the bodywork and windshield trim is around where the body bolts to the frame. The frame tends to rust in that area, and the threads where the body mount bolts go can rust completely out. Also, while almost every part is available for these cars, the body mount bolts are not. Most of these cars will have minor cracks in the body, especially around the flat back window. If they aren't too bad, consider it normal. Unfortunately, despite their drop dead gorgeous styling, these cars were not built very well.
Mechanically they are the same as any other car, with only a couple of exceptions. The rear suspension can be a nightmare to work on, and it will probably need rebuilding. Some of it you can do, some will need to be done by a shop. The front suspension is the same as any other car, other than the Power steering, which uses a hydraulic cylinder in the steering linkage. Count on rebuilding both the front and rear suspension and steering. The original brakes had unlined aluminum calipers, which quickly corroded and leaked. I doubt there are still any of those still out there, the fix was to rebuild the oem calipers with a steel bore.
The interior will likely need a lot of work. They were very poor quality to begin with and have not held up well. Engine and transmission are just like any other car. Mine has a new GM crate 350 small block and a TH350 automatic transmission. If you are not worried about matching numbers, just drop in a new engine/transmission and be done with it. Unless you are buying a seriously high dollar totally restored car, plan on spending several thousand to get it right. Do you want a show car, or a daily driver? Figure that out before you actually buy a car.
Very good info. Nice job. An addendum to #7 is mice. They can trash an HVAC unit, etc.
Nice video, thx! I am searching for one in EU and given the options, I am seriously thinking to go to US and import it myself
Good video ben. 73 stingray here!!
Great video. Thanks for going to the effort. btw your red convertible looks awesome, great job!
When i see the prices over there compared to what we'd pay here in Australia for the same thing, a tear developes in my eye and then severe rage arises that we get so ripped off with prices across the board here, a $16k vette in U.S could well be $50k here. RHD conversion would be on top of that, prob 7-10K more.
I've owned my 1972 coupe Mille Migille Red for 40 years. 3rd owner. I've been thur my car once..just overhauled complete brake system, u joints, emergency system, master cylinder. drill rotors, new caliber, seals, bearings. A/C next.
Ben, Nice Job on the video. Well done.
I have one more. Test drive ANY C3 over some pot holes or a train track crossing or something. If you don't shit your pants at the sheer chaos that will ensue, and live through the experience, and still like the car then maybe its made to be. I ran as fast as I can go away from the pile that is the C3.
Great Video, basic good advice, thank you for taking the time, very useful, DQ.
Wow never see anything about a 79 corvette bubble glass. I have one and it is great. Number matching very fast 4 speed good times 110 in third gear hit 4th and no Idea how fast it was going. What a rush!!!
At least you have a Tx car. Try buying an Ohio Corvette... those frames slowly rot overtime even in storage and the box section in front of the rear wheels is a weak spot. I had a 70 350-350 4 speed coupe that had that problem. Some guys drove up from Houston to buy it! It was a great car for the price I sold it for.
what a fantastic well presented and informative video..i just subbed to your channel..
crusty ringpimple I am glad you enjoyed it! Check out my playlists for more Corvette and old car videos!
Got a 77 4spd non matching for 3grand, could have got it cheaper, but who cares minor work and a paint job. Solid car.
11:17 Probably it was late model (1978 or 1979). Wheels are nice, whole styling is resembling Eckler's Can Am bodywork.
It's hard to tell from only 2 photos and low res on top of that, but to me it's looking as pretty good project car (note, only IF everything is molded in correctly).
You can easily buy body parts from acivette.
Also if someone bother with that many body mods, you could expect, that frame and suspension are in decent shape (otherwise it doesn't have any sense).
If you can see on the photos that some critical parts have been replaced/restored (e.g: new carb, fan, radiator), you can bet that other stuff is in good condition too (it's not a rule though).
But of course looking in person, the thing you buy is the best.
Also about VIN on engine block. Some people tend to grind it down, after restoration.
One more thing to rule 10, after purchase you have to buy AIM with correct year.
AIM is a must have.
I think it might have been an earlier one based on the back window, but we will never know. I saw this on ebay years and years ago, and I WISH I had saved more of the pics! Live and learn!
Rule number 1 : buy a C3 and hope that Ben has a video on any issue that will happen. Rule number 2 : he probably does but hoping wont hurt.
my red '73 smallblock corvette convertible is just like yours (identical), bought in massachusetts
Very informative. I am interested in the '82 collector's edition. I now have a '93 40th aniversary, a '94 convertable and a '04 Z06 commerative edition. Wouldn't it be cool to have a corvette from each generation?
rule number 11 : put it in a garage!
Good job Ben. Corvette Dan.
a lot to know, wish I could own one someday...
Very informative. Nice 73!
can you do a guide on what to look for on the 56' caddy, I might get one soon
As an owner of a low milage 68, a 74 454 roadster and a 77, all were impulse buys and all checked off a box on a list. I buy KNOWING I will put money into them. Who buys a used car expecting otherwise. I just picked up an 87 driver for $500 and will pick up another 87 driver for free this summer, I live and breathe Corvettes. Any condition is good condition. Everything can be fixed easier than a relationship with a modern woman. Have fun and keep the rubber side down.
My name is Ben and i want a c3, it is destiny for me to have one now
And most of them have been wrecked at one time or another. I’ve had three of them, bought two brand new and one used. Wrecked one of the brand new ones and had it repaired.
thanks for the input, good information..good learning curve...thanks
Al Edwards Good luck on your search!