My 01 Dakota R/T just hit 303k miles this week, it runs great but it burns its fair share of oil haha. I’ve switched it to a 20% Lucas additive diet and that’s helped some lol
@@RustBeltGarage1 ehh, if it burns some oil, just means the upper end is lubricated lol. My 01 Silverado winter rat 4.8, 5 speed, 307k on it smokes like a 2 pack a day grandma playing bingo on a hot streak at startup. When the truck is rotten beyond repairs, I'm snagging the drive train for something else
Wow.......I must have missed a few videos......I didnt even know you finally dropped a 318 in it!!......Its been a while since ive been on SkewTube, so not suprised i missed all that.....great job!!.....I finally sold my 98 dakota a couple yrs ago, and i miss it badly......It was an extended cab 4x4 with 3" lift, and V8 5-speed, not a spot of rust on it, 135k miles, and i sold it dirt cheap ($3500) to help a friend out that didnt have a vehicle......but i'll get it back someday hopefully.....keep up the awesome work and hurry up with the drive video!!
What turbo are you running? Im working on a 1996 dakota about to swap a 318 magnum in rebuilding it at the moment going to use an aces killshot tbi. Any help i would appreciate i love the videos been watching since early on with the v6. Thanks for what your doing the dakotas are kinda overlooked over the s10s and rangers ive always enjoyed my dakotas glad to finally be building one.
@@RustBeltGarage1 I want to mention, the ebay GT35 often comes with the small 0.63 AR T3 turbine housing. Meant for high rpm 4 cylinders or a 6 cylinder. It might've been a little small on the 3.9, but adequate. On the 5.2, the .63 will likely start to choke at higher RPM. Or at minimum you will see very high EGTs and shorten the life of the turbo and wastegate. You may want to consider one of the ebay GT35 1.06AR T3 turbine housings. Theyre cheap and come with the same extended 4 bolt downpipe pattern you built this setup around. So it will just be as simple as swapping out the turbine housing.
Dude, you have to come over at Lee County to add a GT3582 turbo kit in my 1995 dakota 318. 😂 that looks amazing, And quick question: Can the 5.2l magnum handle that much air coming in when the engine is completely stock?
man youtube didnt give me any of your notifications so i reset yhem hopefully it fixes the issues and i get then when u post. that tach i have on my dakota temporarily and its ok its a lil slow on revs but mines accurate as far as when im running down the road.. isnt the lighting so much better with led lights i had to buy the digital flasher with the ground wire so the blinkers would function w/out hyper flash.. on getting an MSD box the 6al and MSD coil the coil is fine but you want to get the MSD b-series box its for boosted vehicles & it has an adjustable timing knob so when ur using the boost u can dial it in for ur driving under boost better MSD sells factory reconditioned ones on MSD & EBAY just make sure its a msd authorized dealer cuz MSD backs up the factory reconditioned like a new one just cheaper cost & comes with a New wiring harness kit so you can't even tell except for the cost is cheaper on the wallet.. if u need a new geille and outer shell i got a good condition chrome set u can have that came with a parts truck i got ur more than welcome to if you want it.. so glad your back at the truck and looking good cant wait to see vids of this thing driving round keep up the good work and thanks for sharing the content on a well deserving and overlooked truck
I'm not a professional, but I have some experience with this stuff. If you are running out of coil at high rpm/high load, you should also run out of coil at high rpm/low load. it still tries to produce the same amount of spark either way.
So I ended up figuring out the issue after my dyno tune was done but I don’t think it ever got covered in a video. The whole time I thought it was losing/lack of spark so I upgraded to an msd high vibration coil and an msd 7al box and the issue actually got worse. What I ended up finally discovering to be the issue was excessive “noise” being emitted from the spark plug wires interfering with the crank sensor signal. I relocated the wires for the crank sensor and insulated it and the issue completely went away.
@jamesvarner1878 You have to remember that air is an insulator, it will take more spark energy to jump the spark plug gap with the denser air charge in boost. So it is possible to run out of coil at high load high rpm but not low load high rpm.
I mentioned it in another reply in more detail but I ended up finding out much later on that my issue was from “noise” emitting from the plug wires interfering with my crank signal
I’m using a factory intake from a 99 ram. The ram and Dakota intakes are identical however the later trucks had the egr port blocked off or removed so I used it instead of an earlier one. I also replaced the belly pan on the intake with one of the reinforced aluminum ones from Hughes engines.
I’ve got a Dakota myself I want to boost up just like you there, great video
Oooh excited to see more of this thing ripping!
Soon!
One day...nice job. With over 300k miles on mine might need a rebuild lol.
My 01 Dakota R/T just hit 303k miles this week, it runs great but it burns its fair share of oil haha. I’ve switched it to a 20% Lucas additive diet and that’s helped some lol
@@RustBeltGarage1 ehh, if it burns some oil, just means the upper end is lubricated lol. My 01 Silverado winter rat 4.8, 5 speed, 307k on it smokes like a 2 pack a day grandma playing bingo on a hot streak at startup. When the truck is rotten beyond repairs, I'm snagging the drive train for something else
Wow.......I must have missed a few videos......I didnt even know you finally dropped a 318 in it!!......Its been a while since ive been on SkewTube, so not suprised i missed all that.....great job!!.....I finally sold my 98 dakota a couple yrs ago, and i miss it badly......It was an extended cab 4x4 with 3" lift, and V8 5-speed, not a spot of rust on it, 135k miles, and i sold it dirt cheap ($3500) to help a friend out that didnt have a vehicle......but i'll get it back someday hopefully.....keep up the awesome work and hurry up with the drive video!!
Driving videos are coming soon!
Awesome build an some cool wheels
Thanks!
What turbo are you running? Im working on a 1996 dakota about to swap a 318 magnum in rebuilding it at the moment going to use an aces killshot tbi. Any help i would appreciate i love the videos been watching since early on with the v6. Thanks for what your doing the dakotas are kinda overlooked over the s10s and rangers ive always enjoyed my dakotas glad to finally be building one.
I’m running a Chinese 3582r
@@RustBeltGarage1
I want to mention, the ebay GT35 often comes with the small 0.63 AR T3 turbine housing.
Meant for high rpm 4 cylinders or a 6 cylinder.
It might've been a little small on the 3.9, but adequate.
On the 5.2, the .63 will likely start to choke at higher RPM. Or at minimum you will see very high EGTs and shorten the life of the turbo and wastegate.
You may want to consider one of the ebay GT35 1.06AR T3 turbine housings.
Theyre cheap and come with the same extended 4 bolt downpipe pattern you built this setup around.
So it will just be as simple as swapping out the turbine housing.
Dude, you have to come over at Lee County to add a GT3582 turbo kit in my 1995 dakota 318. 😂 that looks amazing, And quick question: Can the 5.2l magnum handle that much air coming in when the engine is completely stock?
man youtube didnt give me any of your notifications so i reset yhem hopefully it fixes the issues and i get then when u post. that tach i have on my dakota temporarily and its ok its a lil slow on revs but mines accurate as far as when im running down the road.. isnt the lighting so much better with led lights i had to buy the digital flasher with the ground wire so the blinkers would function w/out hyper flash.. on getting an MSD box the 6al and MSD coil the coil is fine but you want to get the MSD b-series box its for boosted vehicles & it has an adjustable timing knob so when ur using the boost u can dial it in for ur driving under boost better MSD sells factory reconditioned ones on MSD & EBAY just make sure its a msd authorized dealer cuz MSD backs up the factory reconditioned like a new one just cheaper cost & comes with a New wiring harness kit so you can't even tell except for the cost is cheaper on the wallet.. if u need a new geille and outer shell i got a good condition chrome set u can have that came with a parts truck i got ur more than welcome to if you want it.. so glad your back at the truck and looking good cant wait to see vids of this thing driving round keep up the good work and thanks for sharing the content on a well deserving and overlooked truck
I'm not a professional, but I have some experience with this stuff. If you are running out of coil at high rpm/high load, you should also run out of coil at high rpm/low load. it still tries to produce the same amount of spark either way.
So I ended up figuring out the issue after my dyno tune was done but I don’t think it ever got covered in a video. The whole time I thought it was losing/lack of spark so I upgraded to an msd high vibration coil and an msd 7al box and the issue actually got worse. What I ended up finally discovering to be the issue was excessive “noise” being emitted from the spark plug wires interfering with the crank sensor signal. I relocated the wires for the crank sensor and insulated it and the issue completely went away.
@jamesvarner1878 You have to remember that air is an insulator, it will take more spark energy to jump the spark plug gap with the denser air charge in boost. So it is possible to run out of coil at high load high rpm but not low load high rpm.
Colder plug, and tighten the gap?
I mentioned it in another reply in more detail but I ended up finding out much later on that my issue was from “noise” emitting from the plug wires interfering with my crank signal
Hey will you help me out? I wanna know what intake you got on there
I’m using a factory intake from a 99 ram. The ram and Dakota intakes are identical however the later trucks had the egr port blocked off or removed so I used it instead of an earlier one. I also replaced the belly pan on the intake with one of the reinforced aluminum ones from Hughes engines.
@@RustBeltGarage1 ok thank you that helped me out tremendously
What is your plug gap and heat range
2 steps colder than oem, .025 gap. Same I ran on the v6 for years without issues.