I can get down to low -7 torr high -8 with elastomer seals on my chambers. Anything lower than that and you will need conflate. That was with some 6" diff pumps, I have since changed to turbos. Biiiig turbos.
The way oil diffusion pumps work still seems like black magic to me, awesome work! Seeing the difference it makes compared to your normal vacuum pump is crazy, super cool vid man.
My explanation is that the oil molecules are bounce escorting the "drunken" atoms out, become the club is closed and the owner needs everyone out. Of course, having bouncers escorting people kinda means it isn't the purest vacuum, however it's good enough for most cases.
I don't believe, where do you get time for thinking and realize all of you do ? It's incredible ! I have a lot of very simple projets to end but, no money, no time to finish a simple one ... God bless you guy !
i would suggest using stuffed steel wool anywhere you need oil vapors or mist captured and dripped back down. Its the DIY equivalent of what lots of industrial process equipment use
I love this. Having perfectionism drilled into us by all the professionals on youtube sometimes discourages you to just do something even when you don't have the right tools or budget. Don't get me wrong, I will still do it right if I can, but its good to have a laugh when it looks stupid but works kind of situations.
This was an amazing first attempt and the fact that garbage from the goodwill ga e you something with 4 times better vacuum is impressive. I'm sure version 2 will be great. And all together still 1/100 price of buying one.
Also chilling the water to much can be counter productive as you only need to keep the walls below the boiling point of the oil.. Cooling it more than that means you won't have all the oil boiling in the bottom there will be a cold area around the edges.. The tiny element heating omg in the middle won't help ether lol.. Plus you should have another hole in the side of the jet stack shooting oil up the roughing pump tube.. It's the final stage and helps push the gas molecules into the roughing pump..
When II was building an electron accelerator in high school back in the 1960's I used a displacement pump for the raw vacuum draw the pulled down the rest with a mercury diffusion pump that worked similarly to the one you built with oil. It was very efficient and pulled a deep vacuum but probably wasn't the healthiest of devices. Cheers !
You can imporve the welding on thin stainless steel by using argon to back purge. Technically you should always back purge stainless but really helps with thin plate or clamp some copper or aluminum to the back will acheieve the same thing.
I don't know how much JB Weld costs in America but where I live you could have ordered some custom made stainless pipes for what the JB Weld costs .... and I love it. Very impressive, I like the contrast between the super expensive commerical vacuum system parts and your thrown together thing. I think you got great results, looking forward to what else you come up with. Just never stop getting the job done, I love your way of getting it done, no matter what. :)
JB Weld is probably offgassing, would definitely try to avoid it. Other commenters also suggested back purging which is a good idea for thin workpieces
You might want to water cool that baffle. It is the last chance to stop the oil vapor before it gets into your vacuum chamber. You probably know this but make the chamber easy to bake. It can take forever (almost literally) to pump down room temperature chamber.
Watching that at least helped me feel like I'm not on my own, I've been fighting 12 threads per inch for my 138 year old mill. Yesterday was the third try and then I found out that one of the gib holes is stripped, drilled out / zero threads, so I never did need that bolt after-all! BTW, machining stainless is an art, it doesn't like interrupted cuts. Somehow you have to get the feed rate just right before and hopefully don't stop. My planer loves stainless, the only drawback is the extremely hot blue chips jumping around. Looking through the videos is not particularly of my immediate interest but subscribed, it's the quest that matters.
One thought for oil, shock oil for RC cars is silicone and comes in quite a few different weights. Maybe something to look into, might have less crap in it than the silicone sprays.
last oil diffusion pump video I saw was the one made out of glass in Applied Science channel and I thought that was pretty cool, but a DIY made one Is much better you rock !
I love that your TIG welds on Stainless look like mine. They're functional but not intended for public viewing. I am really loving these vids mate. Keep up thee good work
You could have just spot welded it to hold it together then made it vacuum tight by electroplating nickel on it. Slow and steady to get a thick smooth deposit.
Interesting, I never would have thought electrodeposited material from an aqueous environment would be strong enough to prevent leaking, or pure enough to prevent virtual leaks.
To weld thin stainless (and other actually) you need a "Cold weld mode". It's just a precision controlled arc time. I think that you can assemble little device by yourself. You press a button, MCU starts a HF module and wait while welding current starts going and then just count a time and stop the arc. My TIG-machine can produce pulses from 10 to 200 milliseconds but I would prefer range wider a little. Current should be like 3-4 times higher than for usual process. On Applied Science channel Ben was used an about 2 kilowatts little gas stove for tourists to heat up his oil-vapor vacuum pump. It's quite faster than using electric heater and you don't need to suffering making good thermal contact between heater and chamber.
From my experience, a cheap vacuum pump should be able to get you down to at least single-digit torr, but I can't tell what units you are using. If it is disconnected and the vacuum doesn't change, then you should be reasonably well sealed. If not, it's leaking. The diffusion pump will be hard to troubleshoot. You might try running it with water at higher pressure (no roughing pump) and just seeing if it can get down close to the partial pressure of water (about 2 kPa). But I'm guessing it just can't make good fan-shaped sprays to prevent the collected air from flowing back up. Otherwise, I know the diffusion pumps take a LOT of heat to run properly, so you could try doubling it down on that. Check that the material the gasket is made of is okay for use in vacuums (but it's probably fine). Good luck! This is a fun project to watch.
+ he maybe should've make the spray stages all same size for better "reflow prevention" (add more?) and REALLY add a lot more heat at the bottom (with enough oil) - BUT FUN!
Impressive build! Another thing to consider might just be the heat input, I don't know what wattage your s'mores heater has, but maybe try something bigger just as a test
I'm shocked that "more heat" wasn't the first troubleshooting step, to be honest. That would certainly fit with his normal MO, although I might get concerned about the integrity of the JB weld.
I suggest building a second one and placing them in series. Also, make the part as clean as you can, leave no place were contamination can set home. Don't forget to heat up the components to drive off any remaining liquid.
Take a carpet extractor pump out of an old carpet shampooer. You can find them at the GW (from time to time.) They are beefier that the Harbor Freight pump generally. I’ve reached -26.5 mmHg.
Too often, when I build something that kinda works enough, starting the build from scratch, with everything I learned along the way, tends to fix 90% of the issues.
Love your videos! Oddly inspiring and extremely entertaining. And OMG, Flo from Progressive, Goodwill Cups, ADHD tendencies, and janky welding skills… the definition of a top notch maker (and entertainer)!!
I thought that text said your hair dryer was leaking. I had apocalyptic visions of some kinda after-shower flame thrower system for drying/removing body hair.
Would have really helped you out a ton if you had purged backing gas for those stainless welds. The backside of all those welds are sugaring on you thus why they not only look so bad especially on the backside but, also why you had so many issues welding it and no so much because it is thin material. The sugaring is also why the welds come out so dark and grey/black looking. Using aluminum foil is a really good option to purge Stainless on the backside of welds like that for example when welding stainless pipe or header/exhaust you cap off each end with foil and run a second hose from your argon bottle with the same setting to keep backing gas on the backside of the welds. Just make sure you always have a small hole for gas to escape thus why aluminum foil forms work so well for this. Some people use rubber caps on pipe but, you still need to allow the gas room to escape or your weld can blow out on you as you weld. You just want the gas to cover the backside of the welds not pressurize. Ive actually welded sheet metal in special fixtures to purge backing gas on flat runs for Stainless. Its required on food service and aviation welds with stainless and also used when manufacturing Header and Exhaust parts because it is not only easier to weld but, the welds come out 100 times better all round. That sugaring is very detrimental to your TIG welding process. You also want to wipe down all your stainless (and aluminum for that matter) parts with Acetone before welding so they are clean as possible. Every little bit helps.
Are you in Pa? I am building a vacuum tube glass blowing shop and I am trying to source and or build everything I need. Love your vids... Can a vacuum diffusion pump be made from copper?
Don’t know what to think after watching your video. I recently bought a Robinair 15500 2 stage vacuum pump and also a CPS VG200 micron gauge. If I hook the micron gauge directly to the pump with fresh vacuum oil, I can pull down to 4um which seems amazing; if I include the gauge’s included brass-adapter, it increases to 6um. Do you have any comments, do yo think my VG200 is reading correct? When I pull down a R134 automotive AC, I get about 300um which seems to be about right. Great video, learned a lot! Thanks!
Did you lose oil in the DP while testing it? Every DP i've ever worked on had baffles in the outlet to prevent the mech pump from sucking the oil out of the DP.
You may be able to use sorption pumps for rough vacuum and titanium sublimation pumps for high vacuum. I worked on a system that had sorption pumps, titanium sublimation pumps and ion pumps. It bottomed out the bayard-alpert ion gage. Less than x10 to the -14 torr! Does anyone know if you can leave out the ion pumps?
Get up to 14 bars of vacuum from your car engine by disconnecting the vacuum line to the master cylinder ( brake master cylinder). Vacuum from car engine.
Wow, this thing is really janky, but it is actually amazing that it worked! I always wanted to have such a vacuum system, so I might try to do something similar.
If ever traveling through Indiana there is a vac torr 25 sitting in the shop looking for a new home that I would gladly donate. offered to codys lab once upon a time but never got a response. I believe it pumps down to .1 micron.
lol, I'm the amateur tig welder you're talking to and holy shit are you right that welding super thin stainless together is NOT EASY. The jump from 1/8" down to 20ga with my project was crazy. How does metal just DISAPPEAR LIKE THAT?!?!? fuck. Stupid thin sheet stainless. Clearly the answer is a laser welder.
I was wondering why you don't use aluminium for the pump ? Okay i get the idea of doing it with cheap pot but if you're making a serious build can't you go with aluminium and get the right material from a metal shop ? I read that aluminium is not that bad in term of outgassing, did I miss something ?
@@nathanmccorkle4278 anodizing aluminum is terrible for vacuum system, raw aluminum is great but the anodizing process grows a layer of oxide in the shape of long thin tubes that can hold on to individual atoms making it a nightmare for outgasing, that’s also the reason it can be so colorful since the tiny pores hold on to any dye small enough to get in them
@@grantd8629 I'm with you on surface area, but all the dry etch equipment manufacturers use primarily anodized aluminum because it's very robust against degradation from the etch and plasma chemistry
WD40 is probably the worst choice for oil as it is heavily mixed with acid. Crude oil will gave better results. I am using Galden 230, it is not expensive as proper oil but it is not crap as wd40 also.
I have a cheap pump.. Literally the cheapest 2 stage pump I could find.. But changing the oil to good quality oil increased max vacuum allot! Do not use the crap oil that comes with the mechanical pump
This is just like some kind of This Old Tony/Applied Science mash-up, but evil
10/10
He also gives off Michael Reeves vibes, i hope he ends up at Safety third
I just take off my hat and silently applaud.
To do this from improvised means so that it worked correctly.
Respect to the author.
For really high vacuums, you need all metal seals. Plastic and rubber off gases at those pressures, preventing you from getting a high vaccuum.
And turbo pumps, IGPs and heating up all the setup for days.
I can get down to low -7 torr high -8 with elastomer seals on my chambers. Anything lower than that and you will need conflate. That was with some 6" diff pumps, I have since changed to turbos. Biiiig turbos.
The way oil diffusion pumps work still seems like black magic to me, awesome work! Seeing the difference it makes compared to your normal vacuum pump is crazy, super cool vid man.
Best explanation yet: Applied Science ua-cam.com/video/SrNVLCHrJtY/v-deo.html ...
My explanation is that the oil molecules are bounce escorting the "drunken" atoms out, become the club is closed and the owner needs everyone out.
Of course, having bouncers escorting people kinda means it isn't the purest vacuum, however it's good enough for most cases.
it's a kinetic pump, using oil as the kinetic mass
very simple, no moving parts
large mass moving one direction pulls everything else along with it
I don't believe, where do you get time for thinking and realize all of you do ? It's incredible ! I have a lot of very simple projets to end but, no money, no time to finish a simple one ... God bless you guy !
i would suggest using stuffed steel wool anywhere you need oil vapors or mist captured and dripped back down. Its the DIY equivalent of what lots of industrial process equipment use
I love this. Having perfectionism drilled into us by all the professionals on youtube sometimes discourages you to just do something even when you don't have the right tools or budget. Don't get me wrong, I will still do it right if I can, but its good to have a laugh when it looks stupid but works kind of situations.
Long live our JB Weld king !
The King:YES ...but here JB may well be one of the major mistakes ;-/
Sweet baby jesus, I just came accross this channel and I'm having such a blast. Thank you for all your hard work and humor, goodsir!
That "diy crafts" intro was too good lmao
It's important that you try. And you tried. You have my respects.
You are the broest engineer I have ever seen and I love it. Keep it up. (And I would not mind another video over the new attempt)
This was an amazing first attempt and the fact that garbage from the goodwill ga e you something with 4 times better vacuum is impressive. I'm sure version 2 will be great. And all together still 1/100 price of buying one.
Also chilling the water to much can be counter productive as you only need to keep the walls below the boiling point of the oil.. Cooling it more than that means you won't have all the oil boiling in the bottom there will be a cold area around the edges.. The tiny element heating omg in the middle won't help ether lol.. Plus you should have another hole in the side of the jet stack shooting oil up the roughing pump tube.. It's the final stage and helps push the gas molecules into the roughing pump..
It might not given you the numbers you want but it works, now it's just a matter of refining what you have
When II was building an electron accelerator in high school back in the 1960's I used a displacement pump for the raw vacuum draw the pulled down the rest with a mercury diffusion pump that worked similarly to the one you built with oil. It was very efficient and pulled a deep vacuum but probably wasn't the healthiest of devices.
Cheers !
Dude.. just keep doing you and you're gunna have 1M subs in no time. So glad i stumbled upon your channel. I give it 3 years
You can imporve the welding on thin stainless steel by using argon to back purge. Technically you should always back purge stainless but really helps with thin plate or clamp some copper or aluminum to the back will acheieve the same thing.
I don't know how much JB Weld costs in America but where I live you could have ordered some custom made stainless pipes for what the JB Weld costs .... and I love it.
Very impressive, I like the contrast between the super expensive commerical vacuum system parts and your thrown together thing.
I think you got great results, looking forward to what else you come up with.
Just never stop getting the job done, I love your way of getting it done, no matter what. :)
JB Weld is probably offgassing, would definitely try to avoid it. Other commenters also suggested back purging which is a good idea for thin workpieces
Jb weld is pretty good for vacuum but obviously not ideal
That’s the best explanation for an oil deffuser
Your videos are awesome! I especially like the fusion/vacuum videos!
Those IKEA bowls are just *chefs kiss* 10/10
I expect that you don't need to boil your silicone oil to remove additives before you put it in the pump. The pump will do that for
I F@#$ing love this channel!
I have silver soldered stainless steel water bottles before while making stirling engines. Once I figured out a good technique it was quite easy
You might want to water cool that baffle. It is the last chance to stop the oil vapor before it gets into your vacuum chamber.
You probably know this but make the chamber easy to bake. It can take forever (almost literally) to pump down room temperature chamber.
Watching that at least helped me feel like I'm not on my own, I've been fighting 12 threads per inch for my 138 year old mill. Yesterday was the third try and then I found out that one of the gib holes is stripped, drilled out / zero threads, so I never did need that bolt after-all! BTW, machining stainless is an art, it doesn't like interrupted cuts. Somehow you have to get the feed rate just right before and hopefully don't stop. My planer loves stainless, the only drawback is the extremely hot blue chips jumping around. Looking through the videos is not particularly of my immediate interest but subscribed, it's the quest that matters.
One thought for oil, shock oil for RC cars is silicone and comes in quite a few different weights. Maybe something to look into, might have less crap in it than the silicone sprays.
last oil diffusion pump video I saw was the one made out of glass in Applied Science channel and I thought that was pretty cool, but a DIY made one Is much better you rock !
I love that your TIG welds on Stainless look like mine. They're functional but not intended for public viewing. I am really loving these vids mate. Keep up thee good work
You could have just spot welded it to hold it together then made it vacuum tight by electroplating nickel on it. Slow and steady to get a thick smooth deposit.
Interesting, I never would have thought electrodeposited material from an aqueous environment would be strong enough to prevent leaking, or pure enough to prevent virtual leaks.
To weld thin stainless (and other actually) you need a "Cold weld mode". It's just a precision controlled arc time. I think that you can assemble little device by yourself. You press a button, MCU starts a HF module and wait while welding current starts going and then just count a time and stop the arc. My TIG-machine can produce pulses from 10 to 200 milliseconds but I would prefer range wider a little. Current should be like 3-4 times higher than for usual process.
On Applied Science channel Ben was used an about 2 kilowatts little gas stove for tourists to heat up his oil-vapor vacuum pump. It's quite faster than using electric heater and you don't need to suffering making good thermal contact between heater and chamber.
Very similar to this old tony but you see his face hahaha
For impromptu jets, use a metal shower head or a shallow steel bowl or ring with tiny holes drilled into the rim.
Janky or not, it's fucking awesome! Really good job on the jank.
Your channel just keep uppin' its game with every video, and you sir have way huge hacker balls, kudos to ya! Here's to UHV in the next one.
From my experience, a cheap vacuum pump should be able to get you down to at least single-digit torr, but I can't tell what units you are using. If it is disconnected and the vacuum doesn't change, then you should be reasonably well sealed. If not, it's leaking. The diffusion pump will be hard to troubleshoot. You might try running it with water at higher pressure (no roughing pump) and just seeing if it can get down close to the partial pressure of water (about 2 kPa). But I'm guessing it just can't make good fan-shaped sprays to prevent the collected air from flowing back up. Otherwise, I know the diffusion pumps take a LOT of heat to run properly, so you could try doubling it down on that. Check that the material the gasket is made of is okay for use in vacuums (but it's probably fine). Good luck! This is a fun project to watch.
+ he maybe should've make the spray stages all same size for better "reflow prevention" (add more?) and REALLY add a lot more heat at the bottom (with enough oil) - BUT FUN!
I really like your style and sense of humor dude, hello from Russia.
I can see you are using the hand cleaning bucket thing, jokes aside this thing is magic how it works
You magnificent bastard you did it! Great video!
This channel needs more love
Sick build brother!!!
Love seeing expensive tools being made at the home shop!
Good luck for the future hope your channel grows exponentially!!
Impressive build!
Another thing to consider might just be the heat input, I don't know what wattage your s'mores heater has, but maybe try something bigger just as a test
I'm shocked that "more heat" wasn't the first troubleshooting step, to be honest. That would certainly fit with his normal MO, although I might get concerned about the integrity of the JB weld.
I suggest building a second one and placing them in series.
Also, make the part as clean as you can, leave no place were contamination can set home.
Don't forget to heat up the components to drive off any remaining liquid.
Nice Going, Bud! Solid effort, decent results!
For weld test sometime is used chalk and kerosine from other side.
Take a carpet extractor pump out of an old carpet shampooer. You can find them at the GW (from time to time.) They are beefier that the Harbor Freight pump generally. I’ve reached -26.5 mmHg.
wow, talk about DIY, well that was on a whole different level! I quite enjoyed this video.
Nice work tackling this!
Too often, when I build something that kinda works enough, starting the build from scratch, with everything I learned along the way, tends to fix 90% of the issues.
Wouldn't brazing this together resulted in cleaner joints?
Love your videos! Oddly inspiring and extremely entertaining. And OMG, Flo from Progressive, Goodwill Cups, ADHD tendencies, and janky welding skills… the definition of a top notch maker (and entertainer)!!
+1
Please do a rebuild! This is super awesome and I'd love to see how far you can push it
I thought that text said your hair dryer was leaking. I had apocalyptic visions of some kinda after-shower flame thrower system for drying/removing body hair.
the gasket and/or the JB weld are probably off gassing into your system.
No way! Man this is just too good! Thanks for your efforts! Keep it up! Cheers.
This deserves at least 1.2 dingers
Could be worth looking into the Sprengle pump. Cody's Lab did a great series on it, but I've always wanted more of that aparatus.
Would have really helped you out a ton if you had purged backing gas for those stainless welds. The backside of all those welds are sugaring on you thus why they not only look so bad especially on the backside but, also why you had so many issues welding it and no so much because it is thin material. The sugaring is also why the welds come out so dark and grey/black looking. Using aluminum foil is a really good option to purge Stainless on the backside of welds like that for example when welding stainless pipe or header/exhaust you cap off each end with foil and run a second hose from your argon bottle with the same setting to keep backing gas on the backside of the welds.
Just make sure you always have a small hole for gas to escape thus why aluminum foil forms work so well for this. Some people use rubber caps on pipe but, you still need to allow the gas room to escape or your weld can blow out on you as you weld. You just want the gas to cover the backside of the welds not pressurize. Ive actually welded sheet metal in special fixtures to purge backing gas on flat runs for Stainless.
Its required on food service and aviation welds with stainless and also used when manufacturing Header and Exhaust parts because it is not only easier to weld but, the welds come out 100 times better all round. That sugaring is very detrimental to your TIG welding process. You also want to wipe down all your stainless (and aluminum for that matter) parts with Acetone before welding so they are clean as possible. Every little bit helps.
So entertaining. Very nice job. I feel the pain with trying to weld thin stainless...
Great job! Keep it going bro
best Vacuum Video on the internet
Loving the animation and effects. You are killing it man! Did the old lady have something to do with that artistic touch?
Just subscribed ! Thanks for great (funny and smart) content and all best from Croatia!
Are you in Pa? I am building a vacuum tube glass blowing shop and I am trying to source and or build everything I need. Love your vids... Can a vacuum diffusion pump be made from copper?
Good job with rough materials, I'd like to see the 2nd and 3rd learning iterations.
Looks proper sci-fi awesome work as usual. Remember nature abhors a vacuum 🤣
Don’t know what to think after watching your video. I recently bought a Robinair 15500 2 stage vacuum pump and also a CPS VG200 micron gauge. If I hook the micron gauge directly to the pump with fresh vacuum oil, I can pull down to 4um which seems amazing; if I include the gauge’s included brass-adapter, it increases to 6um.
Do you have any comments, do yo think my VG200 is reading correct?
When I pull down a R134 automotive AC, I get about 300um which seems to be about right.
Great video, learned a lot! Thanks!
I've finally found someone who is worse at TIG welding than me!
that was not a TIG, was that?
Did you lose oil in the DP while testing it? Every DP i've ever worked on had baffles in the outlet to prevent the mech pump from sucking the oil out of the DP.
You may be able to use sorption pumps for rough vacuum and titanium sublimation pumps for high vacuum. I worked on a system that had sorption pumps, titanium sublimation pumps and ion pumps. It bottomed out the bayard-alpert ion gage. Less than x10 to the -14 torr!
Does anyone know if you can leave out the ion pumps?
um, consider a simple state change ultra vacuum, where you change the gases to solids, scoop them out, or electric ionization field sling vacuum
Lol this one was more like Janktown city. Love it. To be fair, a lot of original lab equipment was made this way... Maybe less JB weld.
Get up to 14 bars of vacuum from your car engine by disconnecting the vacuum line to the master cylinder ( brake master cylinder).
Vacuum from car engine.
Wow, this thing is really janky, but it is actually amazing that it worked! I always wanted to have such a vacuum system, so I might try to do something similar.
Damn you look tired by the end of the video but thanks for the spectacle of making lab equipment in your garage with Yeti cups and JB Weld.
Some of those tig welds are... yeah. Great work though, looks like something I'd love to throw together.
Dude, I love you man!
Success indeed!
"Very suggestible water"
Hahaha
Do you have fusion 360 files for this? Thanks!
probably not even a draw xD
I was thinking you were gonna do an oil seal to pull through. Interesting
Great build, do you get a JB weld sponsorship?
Keep it up, really looking forward to watching you irradiate yourself.
Here’s an idea for that larger steel sphere: use that sucker for a Van de Graaf generator.
If ever traveling through Indiana there is a vac torr 25 sitting in the shop looking for a new home that I would gladly donate. offered to codys lab once upon a time but never got a response. I believe it pumps down to .1 micron.
nice i love this channel!
What pressure did you manage to achieve? Thank you
What settings on your welder? I haven't tried sheet stainless, but did try some sheet aluminum and it was just a joke (on me).
lol, I'm the amateur tig welder you're talking to and holy shit are you right that welding super thin stainless together is NOT EASY. The jump from 1/8" down to 20ga with my project was crazy. How does metal just DISAPPEAR LIKE THAT?!?!? fuck. Stupid thin sheet stainless. Clearly the answer is a laser welder.
Love your videos
Tigwelding stainless looks hard you should have just hawtglood it together
Speaking of other things. Cause dry hands suck.
There is a product that will help a ton and is natural. Wool wax cream. White jar with blue label.
I was wondering why you don't use aluminium for the pump ? Okay i get the idea of doing it with cheap pot but if you're making a serious build can't you go with aluminium and get the right material from a metal shop ? I read that aluminium is not that bad in term of outgassing, did I miss something ?
Needs anodizing for resistance to reactive products
@@nathanmccorkle4278 i don't think there is reactive product in a fusion reactor
@@nathanmccorkle4278 anodizing aluminum is terrible for vacuum system, raw aluminum is great but the anodizing process grows a layer of oxide in the shape of long thin tubes that can hold on to individual atoms making it a nightmare for outgasing, that’s also the reason it can be so colorful since the tiny pores hold on to any dye small enough to get in them
@@grantd8629 I'm with you on surface area, but all the dry etch equipment manufacturers use primarily anodized aluminum because it's very robust against degradation from the etch and plasma chemistry
WD40 is probably the worst choice for oil as it is heavily mixed with acid. Crude oil will gave better results. I am using Galden 230, it is not expensive as proper oil but it is not crap as wd40 also.
what's the unit of the readings on the gauge?
I have a cheap pump.. Literally the cheapest 2 stage pump I could find.. But changing the oil to good quality oil increased max vacuum allot! Do not use the crap oil that comes with the mechanical pump
Looks like drinks are on you in the future if it don't work as a pump can make some beverages with it...
Impressive video
I hope AvE comes across this channel and has some things to say, just for the fun aspects.
You will build a fusion reactor out of parts from a scrap yard one day if you continue that path ;) .