Great info, I plan to propagate about 20 new trees this year. The tree we have now is about 25-30 feet tall, how much can I cut off the top and how much can I shorten the branches. We are in N.E. Tennessee
That's a BIG tree! I honestly don't have experience managing a mulberry that size but I had a 50ft hazard cottonwood tree (amenable to coppicing/pollarding like mulberry) cut down last year and it shot up tons of new shoots from the stump. I'd feel pretty bad if I told you to go ahead and cut it down to say 3ft and the tree didn't make it but in most cases I've always seen good response from mulberry being just chopped down to a manageable height and then working with the new shoots the following spring.
@ thank you for your help and honesty, I think we are going to cut off about 10-15 feet this year and see what happens, maybe next year we can cut more depending on how it does. Also shorten and thin out branches. Thank you again
@@wildsproutnursery we also have five pear trees had no idea when to pick them but we did pick them but ate them right after picking. I just found out we need to let them ripen for better taste. Theses trees are also very tall , around 20 feet so we will try to prune those also. Thank you for your posts
@@bigmike2680yes European pear varieties should be picked early whole still hard and let to ripen inside. If left on the tree they will ripen from the inside out and get all squishy… no good for storage or eating, really at that point. Asian pears are similar to apples and can be left to ripen on the tree. Thanks for watching!
I have two Everbearing that i planted last spring. One already looks like a bush with many sprouts coming up from the ground. The other is tall and straight. It has very few branches coming off the trunk area. So this video was a big help. Looks like i will have a bunch of cutting to try to root this spring! I finally have two cuttings from a known producing Mulberry. So im looking forward to getting them in the ground next spring!
@@wildsproutnursery I have an update on my Mulberry cuttings. There was a horizontal limb that knew I would hit with the mower if I didn't remove it. So I cut it off and it rooted almost immediately! It looks like Everbearing Mulberry root very easily. I'm also putting a large clear one gallon water bottle over them. Kind of like a personal greenhouse for each pot. I also finally found a spot where the sun never hits but still has overhead light all day. Here in SE Texas we've had a weak tropical depression offshore for about a week and that has lowered air temps plus some rain! Yesterday I went around the area cutting limbs off know wild Mulberry and potted them. Our forecast indicates that we will not hit air temps over 90 degrees for a while. I hope I can get a bunch rooted before winter hits in December. I want to get them in the ground next spring!
They root very easily by just sticking cuttings in the ground and watering them every 2 or 3 days. In fact I had a 90% success rate that way but failed using potting soil.
@baneverything5580 I'm still taking cuttings from wild Mulberry trees and some that are in people's yards. I'm potting them, plus using the clear one gallon water bottles over the cutting. But it seems from the last cuttings I potted, which I only covered half of the cuttings. Most of the cuttings without the cover did better! They are still only two weeks old, but it looks like the reduced heat is helping the uncovered cuttings. I have a bunch of small limbs on one of my Everbearing trees that are at ground level. I'm going to prune all them and pot them up. I'm not sure how many I have now but it's a bunch! I'm enjoying success all summer long here in SE Texas!
@@charlesfoster8814 Just about all of my mulberry cuttings I just stuck in the ground rooted. I didn`t expect it because when I tried really hard to root several, even in water, I failed 100%. But I saw a video of a woman just randomly sticking them in the ground, same variety I have, and nearly all grew. It worked. I may let them grow. They`re near a row of three new fig trees and maybe the birds will fill up on mulberries and not start pecking my green figs again. Baby Cardinal birds (I feed them, so) decided to taste my tiny green figs this year and I lost 75% of my crop before I figured out who was doing it and wrapped the trees with mesh row covers. I`ve never seen birds go after baby figs.
This will be my first year with a Pakistani Mulberry that I propagated this winter and is now about 4' tall n a 7 gallon pot. Any tips on growing in a pot in Zone 6?
Thanks for watching! For zone 6 my primary concern for outdoor potted plants would be the possibility of the roots freezing since a potted plant won’t be insulated like an in ground plant. One tip you might consider would be to bury the pot in a deep layer of wood chips in the fall and digging it back out in the summer. You could also leave it buried for better water retention
I planted 4 Dwarf Everbearing twigs in Louisiana this year. They`re very tall already even though I`ve trimmed them 4 times and even bent the original top branches over and staked them. A couple are over 12 feet tall anyway. I`m gonna let one of them grow large for the birds but I`m cutting 3 of them back much shorter this winter. I tested forcing fruiting by cutting branches back by half and stripping the leaves from some and they fruited but I waited too late in the season and the sun is too low and shaded a lot by pines. I let one get very ripe and it was very sweet and the slightly red ones are good too. The birds will be very happy in the coming years. Ha!
@@wildsproutnursery My mulberry cuttings rooted easily too. I stuck a few under a tomato plant this fall and they rooted. I`m gonna put some in a nearby grassy field. I managed to get some late fruit by heavily pruning a tree and stripping some leaves. I waited too late though. The birds got a lot of them so they`ll be happy next year. I feed the wild birds here and I have mesh coverings to protect my trees that I prune for easier harvest and the birds will have plenty nearby.
@@wildsproutnursery I forgot that I already told you about the forced fruiting. It`s great that I can do that because I can time the fruit production and space it out. I`m gonna try to force fruiting again right after the first harvest.
Are all mulberry varieties safe to eat? I have a volunteer mulberry growing in a pot, but I don’t know where another mulberry is close by that would have produced the seed, so I don’t know what variety it is. I wanted to plant it in the ground and keep, I just want to make sure the fruit will be safe to eat.
I’m not familiar with any that are not edible. The only concern I’ve ever heard of is eating very underripe white mulberries. But lots of Morus alba actually make black fruit too so it could be hard to tell what species a volunteer is. So, as long as they’re ripe, eat away!
I'm already looking at planting a second mulberry tree in my yard. The first tree, the berries only last me a month and a half. Pesky birds ate most of them.
Hey Herb! Yeah birds can be a real issue especially when there’s just a few fruit trees around. One strategy would be to find a variety of mulberry that makes whitish colored berries. They are still very sweet but the birds aren’t as accustomed to looking for that color when searching for food. Could be worth a try if you don’t want to deal with the hassle of netting them.
It was a 2 old grafted sapling when I put it in about 3 years ago. So 5 years old. The crazy thing is that it got eaten down by escaped goats the first year in the ground and it totally recovered
Questions? Drop em here!
Great info, I plan to propagate about 20 new trees this year. The tree we have now is about 25-30 feet tall, how much can I cut off the top and how much can I shorten the branches. We are in N.E. Tennessee
That's a BIG tree! I honestly don't have experience managing a mulberry that size but I had a 50ft hazard cottonwood tree (amenable to coppicing/pollarding like mulberry) cut down last year and it shot up tons of new shoots from the stump. I'd feel pretty bad if I told you to go ahead and cut it down to say 3ft and the tree didn't make it but in most cases I've always seen good response from mulberry being just chopped down to a manageable height and then working with the new shoots the following spring.
@ thank you for your help and honesty, I think we are going to cut off about 10-15 feet this year and see what happens, maybe next year we can cut more depending on how it does. Also shorten and thin out branches. Thank you again
@@wildsproutnursery we also have five pear trees had no idea when to pick them but we did pick them but ate them right after picking. I just found out we need to let them ripen for better taste. Theses trees are also very tall , around 20 feet so we will try to prune those also. Thank you for your posts
@@bigmike2680yes European pear varieties should be picked early whole still hard and let to ripen inside. If left on the tree they will ripen from the inside out and get all squishy… no good for storage or eating, really at that point. Asian pears are similar to apples and can be left to ripen on the tree. Thanks for watching!
This video is one of the most useful I've ever seen. It helped me a lot!
Gerardi dwarf is what you want.
Good luck and good job putting out videos. Keep up
I have two Everbearing that i planted last spring. One already looks like a bush with many sprouts coming up from the ground. The other is tall and straight. It has very few branches coming off the trunk area.
So this video was a big help. Looks like i will have a bunch of cutting to try to root this spring!
I finally have two cuttings from a known producing Mulberry. So im looking forward to getting them in the ground next spring!
so glad to help! check out dingdongs garden youtube channel for tips on mulberry cuttings
@@wildsproutnursery
I have an update on my Mulberry cuttings.
There was a horizontal limb that knew I would hit with the mower if I didn't remove it. So I cut it off and it rooted almost immediately!
It looks like Everbearing Mulberry root very easily. I'm also putting a large clear one gallon water bottle over them. Kind of like a personal greenhouse for each pot.
I also finally found a spot where the sun never hits but still has overhead light all day.
Here in SE Texas we've had a weak tropical depression offshore for about a week and that has lowered air temps plus some rain!
Yesterday I went around the area cutting limbs off know wild Mulberry and potted them. Our forecast indicates that we will not hit air temps over 90 degrees for a while. I hope I can get a bunch rooted before winter hits in December.
I want to get them in the ground next spring!
They root very easily by just sticking cuttings in the ground and watering them every 2 or 3 days. In fact I had a 90% success rate that way but failed using potting soil.
@baneverything5580
I'm still taking cuttings from wild Mulberry trees and some that are in people's yards.
I'm potting them, plus using the clear one gallon water bottles over the cutting. But it seems from the last cuttings I potted, which I only covered half of the cuttings. Most of the cuttings without the cover did better!
They are still only two weeks old, but it looks like the reduced heat is helping the uncovered cuttings.
I have a bunch of small limbs on one of my Everbearing trees that are at ground level. I'm going to prune all them and pot them up. I'm not sure how many I have now but it's a bunch!
I'm enjoying success all summer long here in SE Texas!
@@charlesfoster8814 Just about all of my mulberry cuttings I just stuck in the ground rooted. I didn`t expect it because when I tried really hard to root several, even in water, I failed 100%. But I saw a video of a woman just randomly sticking them in the ground, same variety I have, and nearly all grew. It worked. I may let them grow. They`re near a row of three new fig trees and maybe the birds will fill up on mulberries and not start pecking my green figs again. Baby Cardinal birds (I feed them, so) decided to taste my tiny green figs this year and I lost 75% of my crop before I figured out who was doing it and wrapped the trees with mesh row covers. I`ve never seen birds go after baby figs.
Thank you for the coppice idea!
It's pretty cool huh? I'll be making a video this coming season documenting some coppice projects I'm working on. Stay tuned!
This will be my first year with a Pakistani Mulberry that I propagated this winter and is now about 4' tall n a 7 gallon pot. Any tips on growing in a pot in Zone 6?
Thanks for watching! For zone 6 my primary concern for outdoor potted plants would be the possibility of the roots freezing since a potted plant won’t be insulated like an in ground plant. One tip you might consider would be to bury the pot in a deep layer of wood chips in the fall and digging it back out in the summer. You could also leave it buried for better water retention
I planted 4 Dwarf Everbearing twigs in Louisiana this year. They`re very tall already even though I`ve trimmed them 4 times and even bent the original top branches over and staked them. A couple are over 12 feet tall anyway. I`m gonna let one of them grow large for the birds but I`m cutting 3 of them back much shorter this winter. I tested forcing fruiting by cutting branches back by half and stripping the leaves from some and they fruited but I waited too late in the season and the sun is too low and shaded a lot by pines. I let one get very ripe and it was very sweet and the slightly red ones are good too. The birds will be very happy in the coming years. Ha!
Awesome! Yes, Mulberry grows like crazy! Maybe you could manage one for craft wood by letting branches grow for a few years before cutting.
@@wildsproutnursery My mulberry cuttings rooted easily too. I stuck a few under a tomato plant this fall and they rooted. I`m gonna put some in a nearby grassy field. I managed to get some late fruit by heavily pruning a tree and stripping some leaves. I waited too late though. The birds got a lot of them so they`ll be happy next year. I feed the wild birds here and I have mesh coverings to protect my trees that I prune for easier harvest and the birds will have plenty nearby.
@@wildsproutnursery I forgot that I already told you about the forced fruiting. It`s great that I can do that because I can time the fruit production and space it out. I`m gonna try to force fruiting again right after the first harvest.
Are all mulberry varieties safe to eat?
I have a volunteer mulberry growing in a pot, but I don’t know where another mulberry is close by that would have produced the seed, so I don’t know what variety it is. I wanted to plant it in the ground and keep, I just want to make sure the fruit will be safe to eat.
I’m not familiar with any that are not edible. The only concern I’ve ever heard of is eating very underripe white mulberries. But lots of Morus alba actually make black fruit too so it could be hard to tell what species a volunteer is. So, as long as they’re ripe, eat away!
@@wildsproutnurserythank you!! I appreciate your video and reply!
I'm already looking at planting a second mulberry tree in my yard. The first tree, the berries only last me a month and a half. Pesky birds ate most of them.
Hey Herb! Yeah birds can be a real issue especially when there’s just a few fruit trees around. One strategy would be to find a variety of mulberry that makes whitish colored berries. They are still very sweet but the birds aren’t as accustomed to looking for that color when searching for food. Could be worth a try if you don’t want to deal with the hassle of netting them.
I just put a net over my black currents, the blackbirds had a real tantrum!
The first common mistake to growing mulberries is deciding to grow mulberries.
The second common mistake is thinking it makes good firewood.
How old is that tree that you’re sitting in front right now?
It was a 2 old grafted sapling when I put it in about 3 years ago. So 5 years old. The crazy thing is that it got eaten down by escaped goats the first year in the ground and it totally recovered
Thanks 👍
Great ideas, thanks
You are so welcome!