Good video, I've always taught this, finish filler with 320 before primer. Not even a question. When you know you know and I've done this work too long not to know. Body work scatches drive me nuts.
This was a good video and will hopefully save someone a big heartache on their first paint job. Personally I like epoxy over filler then urethane over epoxy.
I learned the hard way Years ago and now Every step I leave the vehicle for 2 weeks so everything flashes and shrinks then move on to next step I.m not a body shop just a customize r flipper so I can afford the time
yes sir the longer the better. The sikkens primer we use for collision work dries out pretty quick so it has minimal shrinkage, but its expensive. Thanks for watching!
It shrinks and swells even after you block it out with 320/buzz with 500 prior to sealer and paint...... I cant stand when the body guy rolls on primer over 40&80grit.... Break it down with a few swipes of 180 or 220 quick...
bare metal is a whole other ballgame, I guess I should have specified that. Yes 100% 80G for bare metal. I'm mainly referring to bodyfiller / existing finishes.
I'm just going to throw in my opinion from the 30 yrs I've been doing thus typically primer shrinks A because it's not of good quality or B the area in question has not been worked or prepared as flat as possible
I like my final blocking to be 240, we will da over surrounding area with 320. Also not picking on speedokote, but we use a more expensive primer that doesn't shrink as much and is a lot faster curing. If I know i'm going to have to prime a second time I'll probably leave my final blocking with 180 and da over with 240. Or if I know i've got some time to wait i'll leave my blocking with 180 and still da over with 240.
Standards of Practice is to at least do 180 minimum..... It literally takes seconds to go from 80 to 180 to 220 & you'll be able to use a 1.4 spray gun with 2 coats of primer vs a 2.0-3.0 tip & 3 coats.......
The scratches are still there i dont care how many times u cut n buff the scratches are still there before base is sprayed meaning they are still there if u put 200 coats of clear
Good video, I've always taught this, finish filler with 320 before primer. Not even a question. When you know you know and I've done this work too long not to know. Body work scatches drive me nuts.
This was a good video and will hopefully save someone a big heartache on their first paint job. Personally I like epoxy over filler then urethane over epoxy.
That is why I get people like you do the job right!!👍
Good demonstration
I learned the hard way Years ago and now Every step I leave the vehicle for 2 weeks so everything flashes and shrinks then move on to next step I.m not a body shop just a customize r flipper so I can afford the time
yes sir the longer the better. The sikkens primer we use for collision work dries out pretty quick so it has minimal shrinkage, but its expensive. Thanks for watching!
excellent! thank you
Good info thanks.
It shrinks and swells even after you block it out with 320/buzz with 500 prior to sealer and paint...... I cant stand when the body guy rolls on primer over 40&80grit.... Break it down with a few swipes of 180 or 220 quick...
yes sir just can't do that crap over 40/80..LOL
Don't some primer's tds (epoxy, for instance) say to prime over 80 grit on bare metal? Are you sanding with a finer grit for urethane primer?
bare metal is a whole other ballgame, I guess I should have specified that. Yes 100% 80G for bare metal. I'm mainly referring to bodyfiller / existing finishes.
@@lowcountrylowdown9000 It makes sense now. Thanks.
So if you needed to take a pannel down to bare steel whats the procedure all the way to cut n buff
I'm just going to throw in my opinion from the 30 yrs I've been doing thus typically primer shrinks A because it's not of good quality or B the area in question has not been worked or prepared as flat as possible
Most primers recommend sanding bare metal with 180 before priming, should bare metal be brought to 220?
@@snapfly7 bare metal is an entirely different animal, this video was mainly for body repair areas and existing finishes.
DA to cut the skin of the primer & block it out with 320.... DA over that with 400/500/600 for base prep...
So what would you take it to before priming. 320??
I like my final blocking to be 240, we will da over surrounding area with 320. Also not picking on speedokote, but we use a more expensive primer that doesn't shrink as much and is a lot faster curing. If I know i'm going to have to prime a second time I'll probably leave my final blocking with 180 and da over with 240. Or if I know i've got some time to wait i'll leave my blocking with 180 and still da over with 240.
Standards of Practice is to at least do 180 minimum..... It literally takes seconds to go from 80 to 180 to 220 & you'll be able to use a 1.4 spray gun with 2 coats of primer vs a 2.0-3.0 tip & 3 coats.......
The scratches are still there i dont care how many times u cut n buff the scratches are still there before base is sprayed meaning they are still there if u put 200 coats of clear
I gotta say I could live with the 80 grit scratches it looks fine to me