Adjustable fullering jig - blacksmithing tools
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- Опубліковано 25 бер 2018
- I have had some requests for this particular tool. While this fullering jig is a fabrication project with no forging to make the tool, it is never the less a very useful and practical tool in the blacksmith shop
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The following list provides just a few resources to help you find supplies and equipment for blacksmithing.
www.piehtoolco.com/
www.centaurforge.com/
www.blacksmithsdepot.com/
www.blacksmithbolt.com/
www.oldworldanvils.com/
www.nimbaanvils.com/
fontaninianvilandtool.com/
www.abana.org/
www.mcmaster.com
kensironstore.com/
Blacksmithing and related activities can be hazardous. These videos are not a substitute for competent professional instruction. Your safety is your sole responsibility. Always use appropriate safety equipment including eye and ear protection when working in the shop. Follow manufactures safety guidelines for the use of all equipment. In the event something shown in one of these videos seems unsafe, it is up to you to make the appropriate changes to protect yourself.
I made one. Thank you for the instructional video. Sadly I can’t attach a picture for some reason, I’d love to show someone. Lol.
Doesn't matter it aint a pure blacksmithing video. It's need a tool make a tool. Great info once again.
No need to apologize about fabricating the tooling. This is an excellent example of: need a tool - make a tool.
Added to to do list. Brilliant!
Another great video John. Thanks!
Great project , this one will go on my to do list !
Thank you for the inspiration !
Keep Hammering !
Now that's a handy tool! Thanks.
Love it, I could even make one of those. Thanks John.
Thanks John another tool that will come in handy.
Simple as pie and simply genius... love it.
Nice project!
Sweet Tool.....Next up on my list!
Yeah that is a cool tool I definitely need one of them
An excellent tool I will have a go at that?. Thanks.
Great tool. 👍👍👍. Thanks John. Have a great day. Happy Easter!
I like what you do and love listening to you explain what you doing
Good and logical design.
Easy enough to fabricate and very useful!
I wanted to make some of those small candlestick holders . . . and just wanted to say thank you for giving us the "tool" to make them with.
I'm planning on having some fun with these . . . presents for special people in my life . . . if I can get a decent forge running.
May God bless,
Dwight
I like the way the fabrication of the hardy stem allows easily for a wedge. Very nice.
Great idea for a tool! I am working on bells made of 2 7/8 gas well work string. This tool is exactly what I need. Thank you
Gives me good ideas for other projects too, I like the "U" piece for the hardy holder it can be used in so many applications
Thanks. Will make one asap.
I made one of these last year, it's become one of my favourite tools.
Going to make one of these for bells.
I was wondering when that would show up. They are a handy tool, easily made to do so much more.
Nice tool. Il have to weld one up real fast. Haha Thanks to your channel I also already made a guillotine tool.
John, I have two of these tools and there Great for making Candle Cups.
Great job. That will make a good tool for making large numbers of parts with fairly accurate repeated dimensions.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks, now I have another great tool to make
I like you throwing a fabricated tool in your channel. Not a bad thing to do every once in awhile.
LOL - I am a fabricator and I swear I was thinking "I hope he gets that square away from his welding." Right before you said you were gonna put it in you pocket.
Subscribed.
We all love to make tools.... I love the hardy hole stud/fork/bass or whatever it is called. Using the smaller stock would be much easier and faster... Nice... Thanks for the video...
I thank you very much it was alot easier to just watch it and thank you very much
..like Jed Clampett would say- Well Doggy!! Got to make this one...!!
I love your videos
Thank you mr. John. I made one to use in my chisels, to make the neck, and this tool showed me a very good job.
Glad it helped
You've got me very interested in learning how to make these Hardy stems and wedges
Very simple, just a "U" shaped bend from something that fits in the hardy hole. for a 1" hole 1/4 x 1" or 5/16 x 1" would work well and would provide a nice slot for the wedge.
I've found totay my grandfather old weld machine. Now i know what to do with it!
that's another tool on my to do list roll on Sunday
Very nice and simple tool, and easy to make, thanks for taking the time to make this video to show the build.
I saw in one of your comments you stated that you rarely ever adjust things like this that are adjustable, I'm sure that's because you do so much with the same size materials.
But for those who would make this and would actually adjust it, for quicker and easier adjusting, rather than using a bolt, you could get a hitch pin with the spring ball retention, or a hitch pin with cotter pin. Both available at places like Tractor Supply. Just might have to cut and shorten them since they tend to be a bit long for something like this
Glad that you made a video on the fullering jig. Don't fret that it didn't have any "blacksmithing" in it. Blacksmiths had to fab up their tools as well. The video is very appropriate. I have one identical to it and use it frequently. I used 1" square stock for my hardy bar, but I like your U-shaped bar better with the option of using a wedge to firm it up. If one doesn't have a welder, and belongs to a blacksmith group, surely someone in that group would gladly weld it up for you.
Like it John,
Im going to be setting up my little blacksmith shop throughout the summer so i can work in it this winter when im layed off from construction work. Ive had a very good idea of the basics ill nred from watching your videos, and thank you, ive learned so much. What im sadly lacking is knowledge in pric8ng of my work. Im going to start with simple projects (campfire sets, wall hangers and similar things as a have access to scrap metals and dont have to be too concerned with the types of metal). Any suggestions in this area would be truly appreciated. Projects like these i think would sell fairly easily at flea markets and rendezvous's next summer and fall in the north central MN area. I will continue to watch and learn from your channel. Again, thank you.
Darwin
Going to attempt making one to hammer out iron Japanese dresser pull handles. They're small diameter so I'm going to use an old brake line flaring tool. The part that holds the tubing.
Great video. As I progress I will be making one of these for sure. I would like to request a video on the types of steel stock a beginning blacksmith should have in their forge to work with.
I will try to come up with a list. Of course much of it is project specific.
This is awesome!!! I have been looking at Guillotine tools but now this looks so much better!!!
I still find the guillotine tool to be more versatile, but for fullering alone I prefer this type of tool.
There is a splatter spray available that prevents most splatter from sticking to the clamps, magnets, and other tools that have to be right next to the spot you have to weld. Sure keeps clean up easy.
John, I am a fabricator and it looks like you did a pretty good job. Thanks for sharing, I will be making one of these tools.
Thanks
John said “ it was easy enough to forge this piece “referring to the hardy stem . I assumed you made this in the forge so therefore blacksmithing was involved so it wasn’t completely a fabrication video . Thanks John yet another wonderful video
Thanks for sharing, John. I do a lot of fabrication, and my suggestion on the bolt holes is to tack weld the corners lightly. No clamping or bolts necessary. Do the tack welding before you round off the corners -- the tack will go away when you finish it.
Great advice.
That 6in combination square is the cutest damn thing ever lol
I use the 4" and 6" much more often than the 12"
Black Bear Forge I use an 18
Nice tool John would of liked to see the finished candle holder 👍 Ant .
It looked much like the one in this video ua-cam.com/video/BAK8hxULfdc/v-deo.html
I beg to differ...I'm new at blacksmithing and forging the "U" shaped Hardy Hole post to final fit and function is no small feat. I learned several skills during that little task and enjoyed the process. I am sure you whipped it out in two minutes and thought nothing of it. For me it was valuable. Enjoy everything you do!
Sweet! To me, metal is metal no matter how we get to the goal, forge weld, arc weld (and all the in betweens), whatever. Gotta get the job done, right? Loved the video my friend. Your content really inspires motivation, thanks!
John great video. This is a tool that belongs in any smithy. Sometimes you have to fabricate nothing to apologize for. I appreciate the fact that you teach basic skills and provide good information. Keep doing what your doing. I'm still struggling to make a chain makers hardy that I like. I'd be interested in your version.
I haven't made one yet, nor have I ever used one.
Thought maybe you had seen one. Thanks anyway
Papy Mike I have seen one and may even have one on a shelf somewhere. But I have never used one or thought much about making one. But I may give it some thought.
Black Bear Forge Thanks John.
I use one just like this to make pumpkins from gas pipe
Weldings cool I prefer torch welding
Don’t feel bad about breaking out the welder every now and again John. Great vid with great info.
I just don't want to give the impression that a welder is a required piece of equipment.
Black Bear Forge, welders are pretty affordable and most of us that would be blacksmithing most likely have one. Not necessary but convenient. Made a very useful tool that will be a benefit to be able to do more blacksmithing.
Scott, I have actually been surprised at how many comments i get from people who don't have any form of welding equipment. It is handy and I am glad I have it available, but the more I learn to do without it the better my other skills become. So it will still be used from time to time for projects that are geared for that type of construction.
I like to use splatter guard.
Are you using the Argon/C02 mixed gas? It doesn’t splatter like just C02. With the increasing costs of Anti-splatter it is a lot cheaper to but the mixed gas. Plus it saves time on cleaning up the splatter.
I have been watching you make tools needed for blacksmiths and this is another tool so it definitely should be a part of your channel.
Just my two cents
Have you ever thought of using the cherry case hardened compound to give mild steel some hardness what’s your thoughts on that
John, Yet ANOTHER excellent video. If I may offer a couple of suggestions.... First, and this is minor, use a 1/2" bolt that is NOT all thread. If you get a bolt with enough unthreaded shank to go through all of the jig, and then be threaded for the nut, it will help prevent some sticking and wearing of the holes. Second, I made a similar jig for my shop as I was making lots of the same parts. I drilled a 1/4" hole through the bottom jaw of the jig and then tapped it and put a threaded rod with a small piece of scrap plate to act as an adjustable stop. It really works great for repeated parts. As always, THANKS for the fantastic videos.
The stop is a great idea.
Just a thought if you wielded a nipple and a nut on your power hamer dies. You could use a threaded rod to change the dies. With out getting your fingers pinched again.
I love your channel stay safe and keep up the great work
Thats a great tool. Could i recommend you swap the bolt to one with a smooth shoulder and the thread starts outside the tool. The way it is now with every strike the threads will eat away at your drilled holed and elongate them. Will be fine short term but for the life of the tool it would be best to swap bolts. You could even make one with both jaws changeable. So you could make all sorts of tooling for the same tool. Like a double sided hot cut for round bar, v grove tooling, fat or narrow smooth u shaped fullers, or anything your mind invents :) Sorry for taking your great idea and running with it. Just got carried away lol
Sounds like an idea worth exploring
A great tool I were planning on to do already before, but didn't think about the adjusting holes!
Also, if you'd make the bottom part interchangeable, the frame would support a pair of butchers too...
This would not allow the bottom part to be welded on, but weld some square stock on both sides and have a bolt hole in the end as well would maybe suffice?
I don't have the guillotine/magician, and some reasonably priced toolsteel is a bit challenging and expensive to attain. So I were thinking if this concept would allow those purposes to be met...?
I think you're on to something. Should be a good way to make this type of tool more versatile.
Could you forge weld the striker plate
I'm not good with a Wellar machine but my boyfriend he is a Weller I will ask him see what he can do for me make one for me anyway thank you for that tip and have a good day teacher 😇
On your video of a wizard letter opener, you have an angled base used in the vice. I need to make one of these can you do a short demo on it?
It is one I have planned
What video editor do you use
have you ever thought about making fly press tooling in your videos
I have thought about it and would like to do a number of videos on the fly press, I just haven't managed to find the time.
I think that you'll find that making dies and hot work tools out of 41xx (chromoly) steel with a simple heat treatment will give you a much higher performance with a much longer working life than 1018/20 (mild steel) tools. Bit harder to weld and requires a couple more steps but it's worth it for something you'll use for a long time, even only every once in a while.
I do use a fair amount of 4140 and S7 depending on the tool
@@BlackBearForge I should have phrased it more as a question. Can you feel/see a difference when using hardened steel vs. unhardened steel when using a small die like this?
I love that you do most of your work traditionally but like you said in one of your past videos black Smiths were all about innovation of tools so to use modern tools to make other tools goes right along with traditional blacksmithing. If a blacksmith had a welder back in the 1800s you better believe they would be using them
That is a true statement. When the welder came on the scene blacksmiths did use them and it is the reason that blacksmithing almost died out in the last century. Blacksmiths gave up the forge and the anvil and picked up the torch and the welder instead. If we only look for the most efficient way to do things, in most cases there is no reason to forge. So If I want to be a blacksmith I need to approach my work like a blacksmith and not like a welder.
L.L. blacksmithing and John, both so very true!
My dad ran the shop for a big pipeline contractor, and in the early 2000's I went to work for him. I ended up being a heavy equipment mechanic and did a lot of fabrication. It wasn't until after he taught me to weld, that I found out I had an artistic talent with metal. Using the torch and welder after hours was how I made my sculptures. I got cut when they had a big layoff, so I lost the ability to create.
10 years down the road, I'm finally getting back to it. I've always been fascinated by the art of blacksmithing and I've been spending hours and hours for a while now watching UA-cam videos by my favorite Mr John Switzer, and several others and have learned a lot. Watching and learning has transformed my thoughts on what I'll make and how I'll make them in the future. Definitely wanting to learn the ways of a blacksmith!
I've realized now how much having a forge will benefit me more than a torch, especially since it's costing me $75 each time I exchange acetylene bottles. Which is why I'm currently building a coal forge 😃
I have a makeshift anvil that will get me by until I can find a quality used anvil in good shape that's not outrageously priced.
Sorry for the long story comment. John thank you for your continued wonderful videos!
I get the similarity between the spring fuller and this tool. But what is (or isn't) the similarity (difference) between it and the smithing magician? If I insert thinner fullers into it?
The smithing Magician or guillotine tool moves straight up and down, which should produce more even results. But it is probably more difficult to build. I use the Guillotine tool much more often
Could you use this to make tenons round tenons to fit into a backplate for a hanging basket bracket ? cheers John
Yes, but you might need a flat section with a stop for the size your going for as opposed to the fuller cross section
@@BlackBearForge chers John
Could maybe just put in a slot, instead of multiple hole? Let gravity do the rest? Don’t know, but I’m gonna try, thanx nice Vid.
Then your getting close to a guillotine tool, which is probably a better option for most work
Can I have the old one?
Hey , so is that tool good for hammer making instead of a spring fuller or striker
As long as you can adjust it to the right size it will be very good for that sort of purpose.
I wonder if you could put a bar perpendicular to the jaws for fullering blades? I primarily make blades
I am sure you could. Although I think you could make simpler arm and pivot for a blade fuller.
Black Bear Forge or make this one for the purpose you use it. I have uses for it. Then make some T shaped arms for blades
Black Bear Forge I'm not sure what you mean by an arm and pivot set up
ah well even I could make that, looks useful though
How well is this tool holding up to use? Is the mild steel adequate?
So far just fine
a piece of paper is thick enough to give the spacing clearance you need
I think that would have been better
thats what I used for 35 yrs as a welder
👍👍👍
Somebody is going to ask so here goes... you got plans I can get for that?
Just kidding!
I'd loose that square if I stuck it In my pocket.
Think I'm going to go to my shop and try to make one, without the plans. :-)
Still in the middle of the video, so no idea how it will turn out. But regarding the stepping between holes: let's assume you want to go up in half inch increments. The first front hole goes where it needs to go, and every other front hole is one inch up. That's your fronts covered, giving you a 1 inch interval. Now, the rear holes, they align perfectly with the front holes in the uprights, except you can skip the first. On the tool arm, you space the rear hole a half inch up.
Now, if you want to use the bottom position, use the bottom front hole, and the front hole on the tool arm. If you want to go half an inch up, you'll notice your rear hole in the upright sits one inch higher than the first front hole, but the rear hole in the tool arm only half an inch. Which means it sits a half inch below the first rear hole on the upright. So the front holes cover your wholes, and the rear holes your halves.
[EDIT] Actually, what you did is exactly the same. Rather than aligning the holes on the upright, you aligned them on the tool arm. Works too, and gives you exactly the same number of height adjustments and exactly the same spacing.. Don't worry about not having a "half-way" adjustment: what you have is the maximum number of adjustments given the available area. If you wanted finer intervals, you could have made your uprights wider, so you could fit three holes next to each other. But other than that there's no way to go finer. In other words: your solution is already optimal, given the dimensions of the pieces you started out with.
[EDIT 2] Oh god, is he still talking??? Yes, I am. I just came up with a way you could actually fit halfway steps in there, although I think your tool arm ain't high enough to accomodate. If your staggered holes are half an inch apart, you could drill two holes in the top of the tool arm (leaving enough meat to be able to cope with the abuse), and two more thee quarters of an inch down. You may need to drill more holes near the bottom of your upright, spaced exactly like the ones you already have. This would allow for quarter inch increments. But your tool arm would have to be tall enough so that you can actually do this without getting your holes too close to the edges, for obvious reasons.
Sounds like you need to go out and make one. There are always design tweaks if you ever make another one. thanks for the ideas. The truth is that I find I almost never adjust tools like this even though the adjustability seemed like a good idea at the time.
Lol Juan you put way too much thought into that! Well thought out though. I just don't think this is meant to be that much of a "precision" tool 🤔 😃
A grinder and some paint will make a weldor what he ain't.
I'll have to become a better painter
Black Bear Forge lol 😂
a welder i am not. what i have seen is a welder never grinds his beads. he is proud of them
John it’s ok if not every video is a forging video. We will surely survive some how. LOL
I sure hope so
Do you make these for purchase?
No I’m afraid not
What difference with a guillotine tool???
A guillotine tool has removable dies that slide in a track or some other guide system. They move straight up and down. On this tools the working surface operates on a pivot point which may not be as precise in some situations.
Thanks for this quick answer. This makes sense
I would use Shoulder Bolt's, The V at the Bottom of the Thread, is A Weak Spot. Just sayin.
Ok I know exactly why you broke the head off over and over . Ok 1st 5160 Is a high chrome steel . It also a medium carbon content , That requires a stainless rod , #2 to weld it ,it needs to be treated like tool steel . For that you need to heat it up between 500 and 800 degrees . First you warm it up ,then you butter it , " put a layer of stainless on it " , peen it until cools to 250 degrees are there about . Then you butter your mild steel block really good . Now your ready to weld them together . Warm them up together weld it peen it . If you can , cool it in vermiculite . All tool steel has a procedure ,all tool steel takes a lot more time and effort . 1 look at it ,I knew from the shitty welds what was wrong . It wasn't you didn't know how to weld ,"You didn't know the weld procedure , Hope this helps
Thanks
I thought of you today ! Ok One thing that would help you immensely ! I just bought a Ac / Dc tig welder . A miller metallic arc for $100 The capacitors are so weak high freak barely works. Those capacitors weaken over time then quit witch is why these machines are so cheap , most importantly they have DC strait and DC reverse . But you don't need tig . The stick side will never wear out ! No plug in ,no leads ,cant test it means dirt cheap . Don't worry it will work ! With this welder you now have the 4 rods witch can't be done by mig .They are 7024 ,This rod runs as easy as your mig just drag it .What this rod does is lay huge amounts of metal for building up worn surfaces , Rod # 2 The great 6010 - 6011 deep penetrating eat through and bite rod . Use for 1/4 - 1 inch steel . on 1 inch use for root pass then grind fill with mig . And last but not least is the stainless stick rod , This rod will be as near and dear to your heart as your grandmother . This rod does cast iron as well as a nickle rod , " but easier to use ,it does High carbon steel , witch can't be welded very good with mig ,stainless of course . If you have mystery metal that the mig can't seem to weld right , Use this rod , it will weld it . Just heat till spit will dance , then run the bead . Last and rarely used but much loved when needed hard facing rod . Build up with 7024 run hard face over top it will never wear out again . These old and cheep machines run stick as well as any two thousand dollar welder with all the lights and knobs if not better and these will last forever . There is nothing on the stick side to break . Just a big screw pulling a shunt back and forth . If it vibrates and hard to strike the arc , don't fret it just needs the shunt adjusted and greased . A welding forum on line will be happy to tell you how . " 5 minute job when you know how ," . If it comes with a foot petal ,torch , hoses and gauge sell that and you have your welder for free ! As a welder you are just fine . I would hire you in a heart beat as a top fabricator welder. Oh 1 more rod 7014 in case you run out of gas or wire on your mig .
I don't think a blacksmith ought to apologize for fabricating. As if all the blacksmiths from days past would scoff at modern tools! They did what they did because they had no other options, but if you showed an old timer how to arc weld I'm sure he'd be begging to let him borrow your machine again.
Can you tell how biased I am? Being a fabricator who is learning to smith.
You are right the old guys would have loved modern welding and once it was available they didn't hesitate to use it. As a result blacksmithing quickly began to die out in favor of more modern technology and blacksmiths became welders or machinists. Today we have many options and the small blacksmith shop only exists because enough people value forge work. For me I love the craft of blacksmithing and prefer to keep modern welding to a minimum in my work.
First I guess.
looks like it
Hi Sir...I love that white marker.....where can I purchase those
Thats a welders silver pencil. Markal Silver Streak. Should be available at most welding or industrial supply
@@BlackBearForge Thank you for your reply....I'm from Cape Town South Africa and can't find them here...Loving your channel though.