Solder job wasn't clean, tried to fix it, lost the part. baremetalHW literally keeping it real. :) That's exactly what would happen to anyone else trying to do a similar job. Love your videos, man
I don't remember when I arrived at this channel, but I am so very happy I did. While I may not collect die-cast cars; I whole heartily appreciate the enthusiasm and dedication to this hobby. It helps motivate me to get some of my own projects done and I can not thank you enough for that.
I really liked the look of this car after the new paint. I think it’s the way the bright body finish shins through the translucent paint on all the many high spots in the car. Thanks for all the good videos.
You, Sir, are a modern alchemist That is truly powerful magick you possess! A great restoration and more experience in reversing the effects of time on diecasts!
Ouch, I remember these old beasties on the streets of London, mixed in with the newer types that were becoming the norm, creaky and quite worn out by the 70's but still workable until the FX4 (Cockney Cab II) became the only cabs available. Quite funny is Dr Who's Daleks used the roof indicators off of these taxis, the BBC were masters of cheap tat as props.
Lol, dude you're gonna be confusing 'em into thinking a Cockney Cab was an actual thing. Naughty boy, made me laugh, though. Haven't I seen those indicators on old Landrovers and Morris Minors too?
Yer, is what I was saying... derived from Hackney Carriage. Not being born within the sound of Bow Bells myself, dunno if I would be totally copus with "Cockney Cab" if I was... but, we Brits can take the mickey out of ourselves with no drama. (er, mostly;)
Another great video. Glad to see you've added a new tool. Just a word of caution. Always wear rubber gloves when working with a fiberglass brush, make sure there's water involved. Some running water or with a container of water near by to keep things wet. Cause you don't want to inhale any of the fibers. Fiberglass splinters are near impossible to remove, have used this on and off for 38years.
Turned out beautiful. For soldering, just be sure that both parts you want to solder together are hot enough, and remember that solder will flow in the direction of the heat source. If you hold the iron at the top of a crack and feed the solder in at the bottom, it’ll actually run upwards towards the source. Be sure your iron’s tinned when you head in (helps transfer heat into the part) and that’s all there is to it
It looks great and the technique for soldering is very helpful. I saw Danny's Diecast Disaster Mad Max tanker and it looked great. Thanks for the new technique.
I am in the process of getting into Hot Wheel restorations. I found your channel, watched this video and am excited to see more as I have time. Thank you!! My first restoration will be a custom C3500. The body has several cracks. So, here goes.
So... copper plating the die cast parts is the secret! Sweet job! My two cents - at 5:57, there was not enough flux on the parts. Whenever solder does not want to flow, more flux is usually the solution. Keep up the good work! Great channel!
You really have a talent in the restoration of these models! Your videos are beautiful and interesting! The only detail that somehow does not fit on this model is the sticker, but maybe I'm just wrong. Thanks for the video!
It will forever amaze me how much work goes into these, but in the end it's all worth it, as they look awesome! Thanks for another great video as always. :)
Looks like the soldering process is dialed in. Nice work. I was just over at Outlaw Speed Shop and Diecast Resurrection. I would love to see you guys do a build off with '66 Batmobiles, but in the 1:50 scale. That way you all can ramp up the small details that you guys are so good at. Failing that, if you restore one of the Corgi 267 models (black tires/chain cutter/missile launcher/flickering flame) I can only imagine how awesome that would look. Thanks for your videos! Great toys, ...er, I mean tools.
Dude! Danny's Diecast Disasters is AWESOME! Those are some straight-up SHTF post-apocalypse, Hellbilly Delux rigs! Thanks for the link! Instant subscription!
I have a few broken diecast cars that I need to repair. I have used glue in the past but glad to see a better method of repair going forward that I can try myself
Yes soldering (sod-er-ing) is the way I pronounce it too. I think your problem may be that the copper plating isn't getting into the void in the crack. After you do the plating the solder should flow into the void, but the raw metal is still there. All you are doing is covering the crack which will join the metal but not be 100%. If there was a way you could enlarge the crack and get the copper to plate the inside it'll work a lot better. Then of course you run the risk of breaking the part. If you watch the video closely you an see the flux then the lead melt and flow around the joint BUT not flow into the crack. You are making what we call a cold joint. That is a joint where the solder doesn't flow well. It is a good procedure though. I'm retired after 40 years with "The Bell System" and soldered nearly every day for most of my time. The model came out great.
Very timely and excellent video. I've been wanting to try the copper plate/solder method ever since your first video on the subject. I recently got in three Matchbox Lomas Ambulance's with missing/broken rear bumpers. Looking forward to clearing off the work bench and giving it a go.
Soder is something you drink, sometimes served with icecream. Could also be where Thomas the Tank engine lives... I'm in flux about the issue. I like me a Cockney Cab, Guv'ner. I've never seen one in the most common color you see them In England which I thought was black. Love to see you customize one in the future. Happy Easter.
It's just not where you live, it is as you say it. lol, I would have gotten smacked upside the head as a kid if I had said "soulder" a second time. Interesting, I had been thinking just that, to try and get a different surface, such as copper, to work with. As always, Your video is worth the time to watch!
Mazak rot or zinc pest occurs from impurities in the alloy causing crystalline corrosion. It's more common in but not exclusive to high humidity situations. Modern railway models still sometimes suffer from chassis rot, which is a pain in a £100-200 locomotive.
Great work! I don't use this method for repairs only because time is limited. I would love to try it at some point. As for now I find the super glue baking soda technic pretty good. For me it works and my projects turn out good enough. My biggest and most frustrating part doing any redline era cast is drilling for screws. Never seem to get it right and end up going off center of the rivet.
Nice job. Looks good. Little soldering tip is to use flux cored solder and try not get things too hot. I noticed the solder going a bit blobby due to excess heat. It may be tricky but try get the whole area to an even temperature and then flow the solder in. Look forward to the next resto.
Nice video, a few basic tips on soldering would be to clean the tip of the soldering iron and re-tin the tip (apply fresh solder to it) each time before you use it. Doing this removes any oxide/flux residue that has built up on the tip that might cause poor heat transfer/conductivity. I have an electrical/electronics background and it's one of the first things you learn in the trade regarding soldering.
Being someone who knows how to solder (at the government contract level), I can help you with why the small part was difficult to do. The clamp you were using to hold the small part was actually also taking away your heat from the small part. Acting as a heat sync. The same reason there is some sort of metal cage on your computers main processor. So the part was not able to heat up the way the front of the car did repairing that crack. Basically, you would have to allow the part to heat up more first then solder it. Another thing to do is to use a clamp with a smaller contact surface with the part. Like the points of 2 straight pins bent at right angles holding the part. This would take a little modification to the alligator clips that we normally use to hold small stuff with. We used heat syncs when soldering computer boards so a part wouldn't over heat when being soldered. I hope this was helpful. Besides that, thank you for the great restoration. I always enjoy your videos. Thank you.
Great job on saving one of my favorite castings, even though I wasn't even born yet when it came out, lol, wish I could find one at a decent price on ebay, but even cars in the condition that one started out in still go for a good chunk of change.
That turned out awesome great work, smoldering is just practice just make sure it's clean and have copper in the crack so the solder penitents into the crack, if that makes sense.
I've done a bit of soldering and found that using a 60/40 tin lead solder flows substantially better than the lead free stuff, and has a much nicer finish. Also if you can get your hands on some smaller diameter solder it may make it easier for you to use less to fill in the join so you have less clean up to do.
This is great work, as for soldering... The problem is the heat dissipation into the metal.... I would try and bake the metal first to bring it up to temp then try soldering it without the copper....... Copper sinks much more heat quicker than die cast metals.... Hence why copper plated works better,vut attempting to bake the die-cast in an over to bring up the temp then soldering.
Just amazing how much time and effort goes into these projects. Lots of respect.
Agreed
that fade at 2:10 made my soul happy 😂
Great work as always! 👌
Solder job wasn't clean, tried to fix it, lost the part. baremetalHW literally keeping it real. :) That's exactly what would happen to anyone else trying to do a similar job. Love your videos, man
Yep
Thats coz BM is the og
Looks great! Love the way you shut down the haters right up front!
Best to ignore them all together
I don't remember when I arrived at this channel, but I am so very happy I did. While I may not collect die-cast cars; I whole heartily appreciate the enthusiasm and dedication to this hobby. It helps motivate me to get some of my own projects done and I can not thank you enough for that.
I have become addicted to watching you restore these cars .
Love your videos and projects. You are very skilled as a modeler, video editor and narrator. Very enjoyable to watch and learn.
The colored windows in the blues or yellows are always something that gives a feeling back - that nastalgia!
I really liked the look of this car after the new paint. I think it’s the way the bright body finish shins through the translucent paint on all the many high spots in the car.
Thanks for all the good videos.
You, Sir, are a modern alchemist That is truly powerful magick you possess! A great restoration and more experience in reversing the effects of time on diecasts!
Who in the hell downvotes a video like this? You videos are always awesome and appreciated.
Ouch, I remember these old beasties on the streets of London, mixed in with the newer types that were becoming the norm, creaky and quite worn out by the 70's but still workable until the FX4 (Cockney Cab II) became the only cabs available. Quite funny is Dr Who's Daleks used the roof indicators off of these taxis, the BBC were masters of cheap tat as props.
Lol, dude you're gonna be confusing 'em into thinking a Cockney Cab was an actual thing. Naughty boy, made me laugh, though. Haven't I seen those indicators on old Landrovers and Morris Minors too?
@@stevewatts3502 Hackney Cab is what we say in the UK.
Yer, is what I was saying... derived from Hackney Carriage. Not being born within the sound of Bow Bells myself, dunno if I would be totally copus with "Cockney Cab" if I was... but, we Brits can take the mickey out of ourselves with no drama. (er, mostly;)
Ever thought of branching in to restoration of other stuff, I think you would be really good at it. You have a God given talent
Looks great. Thanks for sharing the tip. A model done in copper plating would be cool.
ua-cam.com/video/8N01e6fmMo4/v-deo.html
m.ua-cam.com/video/Xu3Y5rYNa8Uh/v-deo.htmlttps://m.ua-cam.com/video/Xu3Y5rYNa8U/v-deo.html
baremetalHW video ^
Now I have the idea to do a bere metal model I copper plating
You're awesome, you're the Bob Ross of diecast restoration.
Another great video. Glad to see you've added a new tool. Just a word of caution. Always wear rubber gloves when working with a fiberglass brush, make sure there's water involved. Some running water or with a container of water near by to keep things wet. Cause you don't want to inhale any of the fibers. Fiberglass splinters are near impossible to remove, have used this on and off for 38years.
Turned out beautiful. For soldering, just be sure that both parts you want to solder together are hot enough, and remember that solder will flow in the direction of the heat source. If you hold the iron at the top of a crack and feed the solder in at the bottom, it’ll actually run upwards towards the source. Be sure your iron’s tinned when you head in (helps transfer heat into the part) and that’s all there is to it
Very cool technique you have for repairing these cars. Looking forward to future restorations as always.
Top Job Fella. I too use your method for soldering diecast, have done for years and it never fails.
Got it done through 'blood' sweat and tears. Looks amazing! Great work. Love that color on this car.
Your restoration looks fantastic. I can’t even notice the repairs. Thanks so much for all of the tips and for posting the video. Take care.
Nice restoration. I never knew that Hotwheels made their version of the iconic Austin FX3 Taxi from the late 40's, you live and you learn.
Indeed a long time consuming restoration but enjoyable to see the finished spendour of a classic taxi Very good video Thanks
Beautiful job repairing this casting. This would be perfect for cracked A pillars.I Always look forward to your videos.
You can't even notice that one day the car was even broken,nice one and thanks for the amazing video!!
It looks great and the technique for soldering is very helpful. I saw Danny's Diecast Disaster Mad Max tanker and it looked great. Thanks for the new technique.
I am in the process of getting into Hot Wheel restorations. I found your channel, watched this video and am excited to see more as I have time. Thank you!!
My first restoration will be a custom C3500. The body has several cracks. So, here goes.
So... copper plating the die cast parts is the secret! Sweet job! My two cents - at 5:57, there was not enough flux on the parts. Whenever solder does not want to flow, more flux is usually the solution. Keep up the good work! Great channel!
You really have a talent in the restoration of these models! Your videos are beautiful and interesting! The only detail that somehow does not fit on this model is the sticker, but maybe I'm just wrong. Thanks for the video!
It will forever amaze me how much work goes into these, but in the end it's all worth it, as they look awesome! Thanks for another great video as always. :)
Looks like the soldering process is dialed in. Nice work. I was just over at Outlaw Speed Shop and Diecast Resurrection. I would love to see you guys do a build off with '66 Batmobiles, but in the 1:50 scale. That way you all can ramp up the small details that you guys are so good at. Failing that, if you restore one of the Corgi 267 models (black tires/chain cutter/missile launcher/flickering flame) I can only imagine how awesome that would look. Thanks for your videos! Great toys, ...er, I mean tools.
Dude! Danny's Diecast Disasters is AWESOME! Those are some straight-up SHTF post-apocalypse, Hellbilly Delux rigs!
Thanks for the link! Instant subscription!
I have a few broken diecast cars that I need to repair. I have used glue in the past but glad to see a better method of repair going forward that I can try myself
Excellent work, I've been wanting to try chopping and/or channeling vehicles, and being able to solder them will make it so much better.
Yes soldering (sod-er-ing) is the way I pronounce it too. I think your problem may be that the copper plating isn't getting into the void in the crack. After you do the plating the solder should flow into the void, but the raw metal is still there. All you are doing is covering the crack which will join the metal but not be 100%. If there was a way you could enlarge the crack and get the copper to plate the inside it'll work a lot better. Then of course you run the risk of breaking the part. If you watch the video closely you an see the flux then the lead melt and flow around the joint BUT not flow into the crack. You are making what we call a cold joint. That is a joint where the solder doesn't flow well. It is a good procedure though. I'm retired after 40 years with "The Bell System" and soldered nearly every day for most of my time. The model came out great.
Only some Brits say the L, and all Americans drop it:
Brit. /ˈsɒldə/, /ˈsəʊldə/, /ˈsəʊdə/, U.S. /ˈsɔdər/, /ˈsɑdər/
Welp I'm about to start restoring redlines these videos I have gotten more addicted to than just watching em for fun
One of your best restorations! Just great!
Awesome transformation. Every video of yours, I always learn something new.
Copper plating now!? Would have never considered that! Sheesh man! You impress me every time!
You crazy genius, awesome fix. That's a super cool casting. Thanks a mil for the shout out!
Hey Danny I love your stuff, I bet you pick up a few subs with the shout out.
I like the way the details pop under the paint
Turned out great.
I like how the paint looks shaded in different areas.
A beautiful restoration - and I learn so much thank you
Great to see you still honing your skills, kudos!
The soldered bumper looks great!
Like nite and day, considering what you had to work with. Good job and thanks for the video. Keep on rolling!
before your reccomendation i already wanted to point out, this car is perfect for a madmax custom barematelHW,
great video and eager to see more!
The advertising for other channels is outstanding! SOCIAL Media at its best💐❤️🤗
Very timely and excellent video. I've been wanting to try the copper plate/solder method ever since your first video on the subject. I recently got in three Matchbox Lomas Ambulance's with missing/broken rear bumpers. Looking forward to clearing off the work bench and giving it a go.
a great hobby to somewhat prolong a part of childhood
That looks great, the color really pops.
Love the color. Great job. Enjoyed that very much. Excellent. Thank you. 👏🖒♱😼🙄
Nice work! I love the way you copper-plated it and soldered that! it came out great
Soder is something you drink, sometimes served with icecream. Could also be where Thomas the Tank engine lives... I'm in flux about the issue. I like me a Cockney Cab, Guv'ner. I've never seen one in the most common color you see them In England which I thought was black. Love to see you customize one in the future. Happy Easter.
Nice one. Paint came out just right.
The magenta paint job really suits this one, nice work
It's just not where you live, it is as you say it. lol, I would have gotten smacked upside the head as a kid if I had said "soulder" a second time. Interesting, I had been thinking just that, to try and get a different surface, such as copper, to work with. As always, Your video is worth the time to watch!
Fabulous restoration work. Great paint job, and I really love the color.
Great job. That's a sweet C. cab.
even though i have seen you do things before I still like watching all the steps :)
FINALLY. The master imbues us with his knowledge!
I hope you never quit UA-cam
The car looks great! I have never seen that one before. I think that's a first for me. Great job on the soldering.
Great job. Good info on the "Crumblers". I have seen it but never heard a good explanation as to why it happens. Thank you!
Mazak rot or zinc pest occurs from impurities in the alloy causing crystalline corrosion. It's more common in but not exclusive to high humidity situations. Modern railway models still sometimes suffer from chassis rot, which is a pain in a £100-200 locomotive.
Your videos are hypnotic
Extremely better then before. Nice work Man !!! Cheers !!***.
Nice job! I prefer MicroLux paste for soldering. I just bought a red HK Cockney Cab today for $14. Just a couple chipped bumper corners.
Great work! I don't use this method for repairs only because time is limited. I would love to try it at some point. As for now I find the super glue baking soda technic pretty good. For me it works and my projects turn out good enough. My biggest and most frustrating part doing any redline era cast is drilling for screws. Never seem to get it right and end up going off center of the rivet.
Great color choice....looks sharp
You’re awesome man, I love the hard work, and dedication, you put into your models, they’re amazing, love your channel man.👍👍😁
Lots of work on this one. Looking good.
Nice job. Looks good. Little soldering tip is to use flux cored solder and try not get things too hot. I noticed the solder going a bit blobby due to excess heat. It may be tricky but try get the whole area to an even temperature and then flow the solder in. Look forward to the next resto.
Nice restoration! I like this casting. 🙂
getting real slick with the editing! and the car came out gorgeous (as always). love your work!
Nice video, a few basic tips on soldering would be to clean the tip of the soldering iron and re-tin the tip (apply fresh solder to it) each time before you use it. Doing this removes any oxide/flux residue that has built up on the tip that might cause poor heat transfer/conductivity. I have an electrical/electronics background and it's one of the first things you learn in the trade regarding soldering.
Absolutely stunning,you are the man.
By no means am I saying he should've left it like that, but the bare metal with the copper plated front looked pretty sick.
Awesome video, awesome end result!
Very nice resotration
One of the only channels on UA-cam that makes me genuinely excited to see a new upload, keep doing what you’re doing man!👍😃
Love the color. Great job!
Bro that was bad ass an the paint job was sweet.
The magenta looks very nice :)
Looking amazing, love your efforts to making the car new again. Thank you for sharing your story. God bless you and your family
great resto - youre the mad(but cool) scientist of the genre!
Being someone who knows how to solder (at the government contract level), I can help you with why the small part was difficult to do. The clamp you were using to hold the small part was actually also taking away your heat from the small part. Acting as a heat sync. The same reason there is some sort of metal cage on your computers main processor. So the part was not able to heat up the way the front of the car did repairing that crack. Basically, you would have to allow the part to heat up more first then solder it. Another thing to do is to use a clamp with a smaller contact surface with the part. Like the points of 2 straight pins bent at right angles holding the part. This would take a little modification to the alligator clips that we normally use to hold small stuff with. We used heat syncs when soldering computer boards so a part wouldn't over heat when being soldered. I hope this was helpful. Besides that, thank you for the great restoration. I always enjoy your videos. Thank you.
You're badass at what you do, love the work love the videos. I would love to see you do and All Copper Custom Car.
Great job on saving one of my favorite castings, even though I wasn't even born yet when it came out, lol, wish I could find one at a decent price on ebay, but even cars in the condition that one started out in still go for a good chunk of change.
The restored model looks great
Great vid again, thumbs up. Who else is wondering who says solder wrong? I'm just trying to figure out what part of us says it with the L
Just noticed thew 3D printed alloy wheel display mount for the car, good work sir.
As always, another great video!
One of my favorites,, love those red lines👍🏻
Great job . Looks fantastic !
Nice job man. Respect. GOOD tips. Say and do things the way u want.
That turned out awesome great work, smoldering is just practice just make sure it's clean and have copper in the crack so the solder penitents into the crack, if that makes sense.
That came out great. Looks mint
I've done a bit of soldering and found that using a 60/40 tin lead solder flows substantially better than the lead free stuff, and has a much nicer finish. Also if you can get your hands on some smaller diameter solder it may make it easier for you to use less to fill in the join so you have less clean up to do.
This is great work, as for soldering... The problem is the heat dissipation into the metal.... I would try and bake the metal first to bring it up to temp then try soldering it without the copper....... Copper sinks much more heat quicker than die cast metals.... Hence why copper plated works better,vut attempting to bake the die-cast in an over to bring up the temp then soldering.
It's a real beauty, nice work