This design has a lot of nice features that I don’t see in other double nuc hives: closing upper entrances and 5 frame nucs. I’d also be interested in buying a set.
I learn a lot from your videos. Please keep making them. I think the design of your double nuc base and the quiet hive base are sound and am going to make some. I have tried your maneuvering drapes, but am not as smooth as when you do it.
I've made the side by side nucs and have the openings on the sides of the hive. I would like to know why everyone insists on putting an entrance on the front and back of these. I see openings on the sides as a fair opportunity by both units to get some sun during the day. The back opening on most of these hives really doesn't get sun. I've experimented both ways and found the openings on the sides is more effective in colony build up.
Please report back and tell us how your modification handles the ventilation issue, and if it makes the sharing of the common wall as way to improve surviving winter. Also if the ventilation changes cause a humidity build up. I do think those are items they had pointed out were benefits of the way they had set it up and put in entrances and ventilation holes. If the side entrance does it as well it will be useful to know.
@@julieenslow5915 I've not had ventilation issues at all in my double nucleus set up. I have a small hole up top that lets the air exit. I like his set up and wouldn't really criticize it, but there are other ways. I still believe the bees need daylight to get out and forage. If you keep entrances in the front of the double nucleus I would keep them on the far outside ends to help with the drifting issues that would occur. Another great resource for you to check for this is... "The Sustainable Apiary by Mike Palmer". He's a beekeeper who relies on this system for his program. His presentations makes a lot of sense. I'm not a big beekeeper like he is but use a lot of his techniques where I can. Our fall food sources aren't as good as his and I need to adjust my program to fit what I have.
@@julieenslow5915 I'm located in Southeast Pennsylvania. Believe me we get humid and moisture can become an issue. Ventilation is a must here. If I were to close down the lid without an escape for the moisture, my colonies would die from condensation dripping down on the cluster. Hoping my comments help you out. You've also got the Africanization is Florida which is something I don't have to deal with here. We have the small hive beetle which are such a pain. But, you have them worse which has to change your management more than mine. My sister lives in Clearwater and told me that it's very warm this year going into mid fall. Here, we've had our first snow and it was a mess. You can overwinter in singles there which I have a retired pollinator friend who taught me not to single deep over-winter here. I've followed his program on my production hives and have done very well. I want to however, look at single box wintering only to save on management. I do a lot of experimentation with my colonies. Good luck to you and your bees. :)
I made up 30 support hives this year 60 queens made from a over wintered 3 year old hive , without treatment , huge queens beautiful brood I was thinking on using oxalic acid this year because 90 percent loss on average treatment free I'm sick of loosing bees
Campbell, CA 2018-2019 Winter loss was 40% for me. I’m treating 5 nucs with Oxalic Acid, & the rest of my hives with Formic Pro, (It’s supposed to be easier on bees & queeens than MAQS. We’ll see what makes it to Spring.
Why not use both boxes deep and nucs to raise bees. than split the nucs off the top. Bee maintain the pressure but could be useful to use two concrete block to get that distance from the hive for $6 instead of 23 plus materials. Than it will have the added cost of making a bottom board but seems more practical to have less equipment than having equipment that does not house bees. Even a double screen board would make more money. I never seen any one say my bees died from moisture unless they drown in a feeder. I appreciate the outside the box thinking on this. Look to make a career out of this.
are there plans available for these resource hives? really like that there is room for 5 frames.
Great design. Thanks for sharing!!
This design has a lot of nice features that I don’t see in other double nuc hives: closing upper entrances and 5 frame nucs. I’d also be interested in buying a set.
So sorry to hear about Billy passing away. 🙁
I learn a lot from your videos. Please keep making them. I think the design of your double nuc base and the quiet hive base are sound and am going to make some. I have tried your maneuvering drapes, but am not as smooth as when you do it.
Are there plans available so we can build from them?
I'm still mystified by the double nuc, but the point you make about shared heat from the 2 clusters has me thinking
Great stuff, thanks.
I've made the side by side nucs and have the openings on the sides of the hive. I would like to know why everyone insists on putting an entrance on the front and back of these. I see openings on the sides as a fair opportunity by both units to get some sun during the day. The back opening on most of these hives really doesn't get sun. I've experimented both ways and found the openings on the sides is more effective in colony build up.
Please report back and tell us how your modification handles the ventilation issue, and if it makes the sharing of the common wall as way to improve surviving winter. Also if the ventilation changes cause a humidity build up. I do think those are items they had pointed out were benefits of the way they had set it up and put in entrances and ventilation holes. If the side entrance does it as well it will be useful to know.
@@julieenslow5915 I've not had ventilation issues at all in my double nucleus set up. I have a small hole up top that lets the air exit. I like his set up and wouldn't really criticize it, but there are other ways. I still believe the bees need daylight to get out and forage.
If you keep entrances in the front of the double nucleus I would keep them on the far outside ends to help with the drifting issues that would occur.
Another great resource for you to check for this is... "The Sustainable Apiary by Mike Palmer". He's a beekeeper who relies on this system for his program. His presentations makes a lot of sense. I'm not a big beekeeper like he is but use a lot of his techniques where I can. Our fall food sources aren't as good as his and I need to adjust my program to fit what I have.
Bee Bob
Where are you located? That would seem to impact which you would use. Or if I could use it here in Florida. Moisture is a big issue here.
@@julieenslow5915 I'm located in Southeast Pennsylvania. Believe me we get humid and moisture can become an issue. Ventilation is a must here. If I were to close down the lid without an escape for the moisture, my colonies would die from condensation dripping down on the cluster.
Hoping my comments help you out. You've also got the Africanization is Florida which is something I don't have to deal with here. We have the small hive beetle which are such a pain. But, you have them worse which has to change your management more than mine. My sister lives in Clearwater and told me that it's very warm this year going into mid fall. Here, we've had our first snow and it was a mess. You can overwinter in singles there which I have a retired pollinator friend who taught me not to single deep over-winter here. I've followed his program on my production hives and have done very well. I want to however, look at single box wintering only to save on management.
I do a lot of experimentation with my colonies. Good luck to you and your bees. :)
Do you make double-base nuc hives available for sale?
+Ellen Owen - You can ask Billy at the Sustainable Honeybee Web site
www.sustainablebees.org/
Ellen Owen ,do they sell these?
I made up 30 support hives this year 60 queens made from a over wintered 3 year old hive , without treatment , huge queens beautiful brood I was thinking on using oxalic acid this year because 90 percent loss on average treatment free I'm sick of loosing bees
We lost piles of colonies in my area. Beekeepers last winter lost up to 100 percent.
Campbell, CA 2018-2019 Winter loss was 40% for me. I’m treating 5 nucs with Oxalic Acid, & the rest of my hives with Formic Pro, (It’s supposed to be easier on bees & queeens than MAQS. We’ll see what makes it to Spring.
Para k usa eso
☺👍
Seems bees put up with a lot of what we try to do to them...
Well, I LOVE it but am NOT handy and don't have a clue where to find one because I probably won't be making one! LOL
Where there's a will, there's a relative. A handyman/fellow beekeeper will most likely assist if pressed gently. Beer helps a lot if it's a guy.
Why not use both boxes deep and nucs to raise bees. than split the nucs off the top. Bee maintain the pressure but could be useful to use two concrete block to get that distance from the hive for $6 instead of 23 plus materials. Than it will have the added cost of making a bottom board but seems more practical to have less equipment than having equipment that does not house bees. Even a double screen board would make more money. I never seen any one say my bees died from moisture unless they drown in a feeder. I appreciate the outside the box thinking on this. Look to make a career out of this.
we have ants and gopher, that bottom wouldn't work. I would harbor ants. now if up on a hive stand it would work
Put it up on blocks. The ground where I am in winter is just to damp and cold