Thank you, thank you, thank you Tammy! I’ve learnt more in the past half hour than the past eight months I’ve been learning about the incredible pouring technique. Even though I’m in Oz everything you explained today/yesterday??? was just soooo informative. I personally have found that understanding the different products used by artists in the US/Canada a little confusing to work out at times, however your Recipe tutorials are packed with information AND they are easy to understand and relate too. Again thank you so much for sharing your experiences and expertise on acrylic pouring. 🥰❤️😍 Can’t thank you enough!!
Great Tutorial TOA Teacher of AWESOMENESS Off to a great start in this Recipe Series!!! That painting at the begining is gorgeous Tammy I love the colors and effects in it!!!
Tammy you always explain things so well. Thank you for taking the time to educate everyone. I have been doing fluid art for about a year and still learn so much from you. Your Awesome!
Looking forward to tomorrow evening ‼️ Feeling Blessed to have found you on UA-cam, you are such a gifted teacher ❣️ I need a refresher on each PM and the properties of each one . Joy and peace 😁✌️
I just want to let you know I love you to death you are so kind thoughtful and smart thank you so much for explaining everything to us I am so grateful to you again thank you take care my friend. 🐈🐾🐾
Thank you a million times!! I’m 10 months into it and never thought to add the enamel like that. I used it in my base. Now I know why I couldn’t get certain effects. You are the best! Bless you! I’m disabled in a lot of pain, but I live for good days in my studio. It takes me forever to mix my paints. Next to black Sharpies, you are my best friend! 😉😂❤️
Thank you so much Tammy. I did take the course and loved watching her work but didn't know what products to substitute I very much appreciate all that tube artists share and feel your knowledge has great value and bickering takes the joy out of the art. 1 more unasked for opinion
Love love love you. Tammy you make painting look so easy you're such a good teacher. Will get some paint and try your technique with the various mixture. Thanks and have a blessed day.
Thank you Tammy for this video and for taking the time to make your instructions videos 😁 l have been wanting to do this for the last couple of months and have been watching all kinds of videos to learn how and what to do and before l.went to the expense of everything l first had to understand the process and may l say that after watching all kinds of videos, l have the best understanding on what to do, as your video was clear and extremely informative and PVC clue is my way forward. A huge thank you again and l look forward to viewing and learning more from you.
I’m glad you addressed the main question I was going to ask, which was regarding the fact that I was pretty sure I’d learned they Glue-All was not archival quality & therefore shouldn’t really be used in paintings you’re serious about making last. Great advice in here for beginners. I have settled into a recipe/routine where I use a mix of floetrol & Golden Color Pouring Medium, much as you described (it’s the best pouring medium I’ve found, though I can’t always afford it because it is pricey- but for paintings I’d consider selling, it’s the stuff I know will dry (a) perfectly transparent & impurity-free, (b) totally colorless & wont affect the hue or value of any paints I mix it with, & (c) will be flexible, but strong & durable (certainly if someone is making paint skins & values that property, it’s excellent stuff for that too). Because of these properties, which make it the highest quality of any pouring medium I’ve tried (I hear Liquitex is up there too, but I haven’t tried it), the way I‘ve settled into distributing the pouring medium vs the floetrol is that, because the pouring medium is more expensive & I want to be conservative with it, but the floetrol tends to dry slightly more opaque & whiter, the only colors I always use pure (or close to pure) GCPM in are the effect paints, like metallics/pearls/iridescents/chameleons/interference, so that there’s no opacity/whitening to interference with their refraction of the light (this leads to a very vibrant & glittery outcome without any dulling of the effect). For most colors, I will add just a little GCPM (just to contribute a bit of the gloss & luster, so that there aren’t severe inconsistencies in the finish/consistency of the end product from color to color), but stretch it out mostly with floetrol, unless it’s a dark color that I want to keep dark (accounting for the fact that acrylics will tend to dry slightly darker anyway), & then I’ll use little or no floetrol (a little if I want those colors to still potentially contribute to cells). Honestly, I think this is probably overkill BECAUSE of the tendency to dry darker; when I’ve mixed a Mars Black cell activator with 1 part paint to 3 parts floetrol, it did look ever so slightly more grey than a truly black Mars black with only pouring medium, but the effect is honestly pretty negligible even at that concentration of floetrol. I don’t know if it’s because Mars Black is such a an opaque color that it blocks out the floetrol’s influence (perhaps with a color less opaque than floetrol dries, the white of the dried floetrol would show through more, but I only ever mix cell activator with opaque colors, of course, so I’ve never tried to find out), or perhaps it’s because blacks are so dark to begin with that when they dry even darker it just overpowers the subtle whitening, but for whatever reason I’ve noticed the influence of the difference between floetrol & pouring medium a lot more with some other colors despite using much less floetrol relative to pouring medium &/or paint in those (I do think in a transparent color like a pthalo, you’d be more likely to really notice the way it dries more opaque & matte than a glossy pouring medium, because it would more noticeably opacify the transparent paint). But at any rate, in colors that are either opaque to begin with, or lighter colors (either opaque or that I don’t mind looking more opaque)- your Hansa/cadmium yellows, your cadmium/brilliant/other opaque reds, anything I want to have a less glossy & less transparent reflectivity/finish, even a darker blue like Ultramarine, because (at least in the acrylic brands I’ve tried) it’s SO opaque & flat & matte looking to begin with, I know no amount of floetrol is going to really take anything away, except potentially lightening it slightly in the extreme (like if I did a 3 parts floetrol pointing medium with it it would probably look a tint or two lighter than normal ultramarine; which you can either add a touch of black/payne’s grey or something to compensate for, or lean into it- I actually recently had beautiful results from adding a touch of titanium white to some ultramarine blue; it mixed up into a color similar to cobalt blue, but with the intense UM/Titanium White opacity/covering strength). And Titanium White (the Amsterdam everyone uses for cells) is basically the ideal, perfect case for a color you can just add floetrol with with 0 concern because of its opacity & whiteness. I guess the polar opposite- the paint I’d most want to avoid floetrol in, would be when I take some Golden Soft Body Medium (Glossy- & they might call it “soft gel” or something but it’s their soft body medium), which is basically just a completely untinted acrylic that you can add a pigment source to, & I’ll stir in some chameleon pigments until it’s saturated enough that you get the chameleon effect showing (I admit, not super efficient- it takes a lot of this stuff to saturate a pretty small volume of paint- & it’s also a pain to mix it & mask up to avoid inhaling mica powder, so I use it sparingly, for little veins & accents, but it can look great… So once I have those mixed, to form a custom soft-bodied chameleon acrylic, then I’ll add pouring medium (& when I get the right mix, a few drops of water as needed to consistency, as with any paint)… So, because this mixture is just purely nothing except the reflective, chameleon effect mica pigment suspended in more or less transparent acrylic medium, & will dry to look like it’s just chameleon mica suspended on the surface of the painting (similar to if you use it in resin), with no other pigmentation to add any opacity (if you add some pearl/metallic/chameleon pigment or paint to a different colored acrylic, it may still show the effect to some extent, depending on the transparency & ratio, but there’ll still be some opacity obscuring it, & the other color showing, & that creates a very different effect which I think could tolerate a little floetrol a bit better), I suspect that adding floetrol, because it would add some opacity to the dried paint, would really muck up the effect, making it look more similar to those other cases where there’s opaque pigmentation mixed in with the reflective pigments. Again, I’m probably being perfectionist if in that way- most people would probably never notice the difference, & I haven’t done extensive tests to see exactly how badly floetrol contributed to opacity/whitening (because I don’t have extra materials to expend, but it’s a tendency I noticed in early paintings)… But what I’ve been doing works for me, & it makes sense to me why it would, so I figure if it’s no real extra trouble, why not make a point of utilizing these resources as rationally & efficiently as I can? And while other aspects of my technique definitely need work, & I want to learn many more types of pours, I do think that on the paintings where the effects really shine through because they’re only mixed with the most transparent additives, it REALLY makes them pop & the results speak for themselves! Also worth mentioning, in addition to the paint, floetrol &/or pouring medium, & water, I’m also using a bit of liquid polycrylic in every color (semigloss, though I’m interested to experiment with different combos of matte or satin products with semi-gloss ones to see if I can find the perfect balance where I get some brilliance & gloss, but the painting is still clearly viewable from most/all angles; I’m not sure I like how reflective my paintings become when I go glossy on the pointing medium, AND semi-gloss on the polycrylic mix, & semi-gloss on all the varnishes/finishes- it’s just too much of a good thing, but idk exactly what the rules are for layering materials of varying glossiness- what combo will be better vs just muddying up the gloss or undermining the matteness.
Will we be learning how to resin a painting? I’m so new to all of this! Thank you for thinking of the newbies like myself who really need this step by step instruction! You’re an excellent teacher!
Thank you for the great information! So helpful and also thanks for your show of support for silicone, a lot of the artists talk about it like it is a bad thing.
You my dear are absolutely amazing! And your talent is out of this world! I wanted to learn the pouring technique but seeing your artwork I know I could never do that your artwork is the most beautiful artwork !! I absolutely adore you and I hope you're well
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I have learned a lot from you already. I am starting the cheap route until I am more comfortable with it. I am pretty crafty but not so much with numbers, lol you made it simple!!!!
It was a "pouring medium" video by Clive5Art here on UA-cam. Apparently in the olden day glue, water and vegetable glycerin were the Floetrol of the era. I forget why, but for some reason they stopped adding it. I searched YT for videos using "vegetable glycerin, glue, water, medium, paint" there are some available. I'm going to go watch a few and see what the deal-e-o is.😂
Hi Tamy, great to see your recipe mechanisms and very helpful. Can you show a recipe for dutch pour with glue and water ? That would save a lot a questions to many beginners artists like me and will be grateful. Thanks always. 😊
Thank you so much for all this info and in such an easy to understand format. In yesterday's video you stated that everyone uses different recipes to get cells. I was watching a video last night. The artist used Dawn dish soap to make cells. It actually worked. How he thought of using soap, I don't know. Lol.
Oh yes I think I saw him. Yea isn't it crazy all these things people are using for cells. Yesterday somebody told me they're using vegetable glycerin. Never tried that on but hey,, you never know🤣
Love your videos. I’m new to painting pouring. Learning a lot from you. What I struggle with is how much paint I need. I’ve stuck with 8 x 10 canvas. How do you personally come up with how much you need? Some videos say 4 oz. I get confused is that just 4 oz of paint without pouring medium . or is that with paint and pouring medium combined. Hope that is not a silly question. I thought maybe you could help me. I want to do more pouring. Thanks!
I am a beginner and am so excited to try your techniques and recipes. Love your teaching! One thing that is not apparent to me, and it's probably a dumb question, but when you refer to the "description below" what do I click on?
Tammy, what is your paint -to -canvas ratio multiplier? So for instance if you’re doing an 8 x 10“ canvas (80 sq inches) and you use 3 ounces of paint that would be a .0468 multiplier. Once we know your multiplier for each of those 3 big techniques, then it’s really easy for us to make sure we’re using the proper amount of paint. With the multiplier, you can take any square inch canvas and know how much paint to use. So if we’re doing a 12 x 12 canvas that is 144 in.² we can take that times .0468 and it tells us we need 6.7 (or about 6.5-7) ounces of paint. Thank you for your help on this.
I really enjoyed your video especially when using glue and water I am a first time beginner so I want to start off with just glue and water and you made it real easy and simple. I would like to know more from you so I’ll be looking for your video by the way, my name is vinia
Ty my friend 💓 so you can let it dry as is and peel it up and then use it to make jewelry or I actually have a nice piece from another project that I'm going to use when making a tumbler. You can glue them on a canvas and make art that way. The possibilities are endless.
What you do is awesome...you can see the love people have for you being a good teacher...Do you already have a video of how you use the skins for jewelry....thanks for all you do
Hi Tammy, you're AWESOME my East Coast friend! How long do you suggest that I wait until my Acrylic paints dry on canvas or wood before adding my resin?
Thank you for another very informative video. I only have one question: once you have prepared your medium (glue and water), how many parts of it do you put in 1 part of paint? I'm sorry to hear that the paint - glue - water mixture is no good for dutch pour. I hope I will find another recipe which is inexpensive.
Tammy tammy tammy ....thank you so much for video 1 ..and 2 I've learnt so much taken notes ....I live in the uk 🇬🇧 and getting flotroll is very expensive shipping wise ....so in uk we have owetrol ....have you ever tried it in place of flotrol useing all the same in gradients such as liquitex pouring med gloss and satin enamel....would you get same effects useing owetrole...thank you tammy x
Hello I am a newbee and will start my first painting this weekend. Can I ask how much paint do you leave on the canvass. Do you leave a lot or very little on the canvass please😊
In South Africa pouring is not yet well known so pouring medium very expensive. Also no elmers glue here, very expensive to import. I use pva wood glue, works just as good. Sometimes also have cracking, but now I know why
Future Recipe Series Request: Would you start giving actual ratios and measurements when teaching us how to make PMs and mix our paints? For example, the glue-all portion of this video doesn't tell us what the Paint/PM ratio is, and you use measurements like "about a grape size" and "I'd say that's about" portion guesses. Grapes are a solid that cannot completely and evenly fill a measuring spoon like a liquid tube paint, and "about" measurements are left open to a very wide interpretation. Plenty of artists who take the time to measure out their eyeballed portions find out their guessed measurements are off, which is why following a recipe in the beginning and using actual measurements is so useful to beginners ... Watching a recipe tutorial without the recipe and actual measurements is like watching a foreign movie without subtitles. It may be cool to look at, but we're still clueless at the end🙂
I understand what your saying but there is the issue of unless you use my exact colors and brands of paint that I use in this video, measurements will not be the same and therefore useless for you. I have a ton of exact measurements videos already in which I tell people use these exact brands or the measurements won't matter and this series is more for explaining what different recipes there are to use and what you can use them for. For example this video here. The glue and water recipe. I explain what it can be used for and I gave you the exact measurements 70 percent glue 30 percent water, to make the pouring medium as I did in the other videos. I can tell you to use 1 teaspoon of paint and 3 teaspoons of the pouring medium we made with the paint im using but now you may go and use a totally different brand that these measurements won't work for it because maybe your paint brand is thinner or thicker so again I say we can only give you a starting point. You will never get and exact measurement that will be guaranteed to work when it comes to paint mixing. Making the pouring medium, yes those we can give you exact measurements which I did in this video.ill be sure to address this in the next video so you can actually see what I'm talking about!
@@tammyandersonart I 100% agree with you 😊 Knowing your Paint/PM ratio for the specific type of paint you're using will give us a starting point. And this is what's so exciting for newbies! Having a basic starting point with specific paint/pm ratios, being able to understand why and when we need to make our own tweaks, and it's all because a fabulous artist like you took the time to teach us your ways. 🤗😍
@@tammyandersonart I tried that a couple days ago honestly I'm not a fan not only is it hard to mix up you don't get the effects like cells using it and even the cell activator didn't respond well to it but it will work in some recipes if you aren't looking for cells or lacing
Yes it is my friend. Great observation by the way. Titanium white is much heavier than other colors but it wasn't sinking that rapidly. Its because the video was fast forwarded and it makes it seem like it's sinking really fast however it did sink a bit and that again is due to the Titanium being a much heavier substance
Aussie floetrol smells like Elmer's glue. So I tried mixing 4 parts glue all 2 parts water 2 parts American floetrol 1 part paint. Created cells. Tammy let me know what you think about this recipe
Your right. The American smells like glue and water to me also. Yes I can't remember who it was that made a really good cell activator with just American Floetrol and paint but the key was more Floetrol. She tested Amsterdam white paint with 7 parts floetrol it worked but not great. She then tried 9 parts and it worked fabulous.. As for the glue. The glue is just an added bonus if you Ask me. It seems to stabilize things and keep those cells really nice and circular and in fact a lot of times I will add it to my black cell activator just as an insurance. I have a black glue from blick art supplies that is amazing. I had used it on its own with just water and got it to react so there's so many ways of doing this But I tend to be lazy and just dump The Australian floetrol into my paint lol
Thank you, thank you, thank you Tammy! I’ve learnt more in the past half hour than the past eight months I’ve been learning about the incredible pouring technique. Even though I’m in Oz everything you explained today/yesterday??? was just soooo informative. I personally have found that understanding the different products used by artists in the US/Canada a little confusing to work out at times, however your Recipe tutorials are packed with information AND they are easy to understand and relate too. Again thank you so much for sharing your experiences and expertise on acrylic pouring. 🥰❤️😍 Can’t thank you enough!!
Wow! Ty so much. I am humbled ❤
Merci ,merci Tammy pour toutes ces explications
Ty Tammy for being such a sweet lady . And spending so much time teaching. Your a sweetheart. 💖❤
Thanks a lot Tammy ! I’m french and i can understand you because you speak slowly !!! 👍👍👍🥰🥰🥰
Well , dear Tammy , I also wanna say "Thank you" that will make it easier for us beginners 🙏🙏🙏❤
Greatest teacher Tammy❤️thanks once again!
Thank you Thank you Tammy for starting this series 💖
REALLY digging “The Recipe Series”! Thank you so much 😊
Great Tutorial TOA
Teacher of AWESOMENESS
Off to a great start in this Recipe Series!!! That painting at the begining is gorgeous Tammy I love the colors and effects in it!!!
Thanks Tammy,,, great information here,,, especially for beginners!
Thanks Tammy for teaching us how to do this right. You make it so much easier.
Very informative. Thank you wonderful lady.
Once again Tammy, THANK YOU 🙏. How blessed we all are, to have such an amazing teacher. You are sincerely appreciated ♥️♥️♥️🙏
Thank you so much Tammy...you are so good at teaching!♥
What would we do without you! Thank you for your efforts to help us improve our painting skills.
Thanks for all the great info. I have never used glue and water. Love this series.
Thank you for this info. Both paintings are gorgeous. My fav is the first one. 😊💕🤗❤ 🇺🇸
Tammy,
I wish these great videos would have been around a few years ago when I started painting. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Tammy you always explain things so well. Thank you for taking the time to educate everyone. I have been doing fluid art for about a year and still learn so much from you. Your Awesome!
Beautiful Tammy! And thanks so much for the information 💝
✌️💜😊
Awesome Tammy. Great info. Thanks💞
Thanks so much for this great information. You are such a good teacher.
Looking forward to tomorrow evening ‼️ Feeling Blessed to have found you on UA-cam, you are such a gifted teacher ❣️ I need a refresher on each PM and the properties of each one . Joy and peace 😁✌️
I just want to let you know I love you to death you are so kind thoughtful and smart thank you so much for explaining everything to us I am so grateful to you again thank you take care my friend. 🐈🐾🐾
So helpful! Tfs, Laura xx
Thankyou, all the way from Scotland xxx
Another amazing example of perfect teaching and sharing your knowledge! A simple thank you is not enough to say how much these lessons mean! ❤
Thank you Tammy for the fruitful lessons! Following you from Kenya 🇰🇪
That's beautiful it looks like abalone shell inlay on on one of my favorite guitars ..
Thank you for a very interesting video.
I love the look of first one; there's so much going on! 😍
Your videos are super helpful. Thank you.
Tammy, you are an awesome teacher! 🌷
I can’t thank you enough for the help you’re doing to the pouring community 🙏💕🌸
Thank you for your wealth of information, newbie here, will be following you to learn more
Thank you a million times!! I’m 10 months into it and never thought to add the enamel like that. I used it in my base. Now I know why I couldn’t get certain effects. You are the best! Bless you! I’m disabled in a lot of pain, but I live for good days in my studio. It takes me forever to mix my paints. Next to black Sharpies, you are my best friend! 😉😂❤️
Bahahaha I love you 😍 No place I'd rather be than next to a black sharpie lol
I love using enamel for the fluffy effects. Love it 😍 yes I still love my silicone 👍
You are such a wonderful teacher. I can’t wait to try the satin enamel now that I understand how to use it. Thank you so much.
Muchas gracias por la inmensa información que nos aporta de forma altruista. Gracias!
Beautiful. Thank you for these vids
Thanks Tammy really learning so much from this series, thank you for putting this together ♥️
You are awesome. Very new to all this and very confused until I came across your tutorials.
Thank you so much Tammy. I did take the course and loved watching her work but didn't know what products to substitute I very much appreciate all that tube artists share and feel your knowledge has great value and bickering takes the joy out of the art. 1 more unasked for opinion
Thank you for all the great info so far.
Love love love you. Tammy you make painting look so easy you're such a good teacher. Will get some paint and try your technique with the various mixture. Thanks and have a blessed day.
Very nice.good
Thank you Tammy for this video and for taking the time to make your instructions videos 😁 l have been wanting to do this for the last couple of months and have been watching all kinds of videos to learn how and what to do and before l.went to the expense of everything l first had to understand the process and may l say that after watching all kinds of videos, l have the best understanding on what to do, as your video was clear and extremely informative and PVC clue is my way forward. A huge thank you again and l look forward to viewing and learning more from you.
Your so great to share all this. Thank you. Love the silicone one.
Another good video. Thanks!
You are so awesome! Thank you Tammy!
Wow! How can I thank you adequately for this recipe series!! Thank you so, so much!! You are every bit as sweet as @kanellaciraco said you are!!
I’m glad you addressed the main question I was going to ask, which was regarding the fact that I was pretty sure I’d learned they Glue-All was not archival quality & therefore shouldn’t really be used in paintings you’re serious about making last.
Great advice in here for beginners. I have settled into a recipe/routine where I use a mix of floetrol & Golden Color Pouring Medium, much as you described (it’s the best pouring medium I’ve found, though I can’t always afford it because it is pricey- but for paintings I’d consider selling, it’s the stuff I know will dry (a) perfectly transparent & impurity-free, (b) totally colorless & wont affect the hue or value of any paints I mix it with, & (c) will be flexible, but strong & durable (certainly if someone is making paint skins & values that property, it’s excellent stuff for that too).
Because of these properties, which make it the highest quality of any pouring medium I’ve tried (I hear Liquitex is up there too, but I haven’t tried it), the way I‘ve settled into distributing the pouring medium vs the floetrol is that, because the pouring medium is more expensive & I want to be conservative with it, but the floetrol tends to dry slightly more opaque & whiter, the only colors I always use pure (or close to pure) GCPM in are the effect paints, like metallics/pearls/iridescents/chameleons/interference, so that there’s no opacity/whitening to interference with their refraction of the light (this leads to a very vibrant & glittery outcome without any dulling of the effect). For most colors, I will add just a little GCPM (just to contribute a bit of the gloss & luster, so that there aren’t severe inconsistencies in the finish/consistency of the end product from color to color), but stretch it out mostly with floetrol, unless it’s a dark color that I want to keep dark (accounting for the fact that acrylics will tend to dry slightly darker anyway), & then I’ll use little or no floetrol (a little if I want those colors to still potentially contribute to cells). Honestly, I think this is probably overkill BECAUSE of the tendency to dry darker; when I’ve mixed a Mars Black cell activator with 1 part paint to 3 parts floetrol, it did look ever so slightly more grey than a truly black Mars black with only pouring medium, but the effect is honestly pretty negligible even at that concentration of floetrol. I don’t know if it’s because Mars Black is such a an opaque color that it blocks out the floetrol’s influence (perhaps with a color less opaque than floetrol dries, the white of the dried floetrol would show through more, but I only ever mix cell activator with opaque colors, of course, so I’ve never tried to find out), or perhaps it’s because blacks are so dark to begin with that when they dry even darker it just overpowers the subtle whitening, but for whatever reason I’ve noticed the influence of the difference between floetrol & pouring medium a lot more with some other colors despite using much less floetrol relative to pouring medium &/or paint in those (I do think in a transparent color like a pthalo, you’d be more likely to really notice the way it dries more opaque & matte than a glossy pouring medium, because it would more noticeably opacify the transparent paint).
But at any rate, in colors that are either opaque to begin with, or lighter colors (either opaque or that I don’t mind looking more opaque)- your Hansa/cadmium yellows, your cadmium/brilliant/other opaque reds, anything I want to have a less glossy & less transparent reflectivity/finish, even a darker blue like Ultramarine, because (at least in the acrylic brands I’ve tried) it’s SO opaque & flat & matte looking to begin with, I know no amount of floetrol is going to really take anything away, except potentially lightening it slightly in the extreme (like if I did a 3 parts floetrol pointing medium with it it would probably look a tint or two lighter than normal ultramarine; which you can either add a touch of black/payne’s grey or something to compensate for, or lean into it- I actually recently had beautiful results from adding a touch of titanium white to some ultramarine blue; it mixed up into a color similar to cobalt blue, but with the intense UM/Titanium White opacity/covering strength). And Titanium White (the Amsterdam everyone uses for cells) is basically the ideal, perfect case for a color you can just add floetrol with with 0 concern because of its opacity & whiteness. I guess the polar opposite- the paint I’d most want to avoid floetrol in, would be when I take some Golden Soft Body Medium (Glossy- & they might call it “soft gel” or something but it’s their soft body medium), which is basically just a completely untinted acrylic that you can add a pigment source to, & I’ll stir in some chameleon pigments until it’s saturated enough that you get the chameleon effect showing (I admit, not super efficient- it takes a lot of this stuff to saturate a pretty small volume of paint- & it’s also a pain to mix it & mask up to avoid inhaling mica powder, so I use it sparingly, for little veins & accents, but it can look great… So once I have those mixed, to form a custom soft-bodied chameleon acrylic, then I’ll add pouring medium (& when I get the right mix, a few drops of water as needed to consistency, as with any paint)… So, because this mixture is just purely nothing except the reflective, chameleon effect mica pigment suspended in more or less transparent acrylic medium, & will dry to look like it’s just chameleon mica suspended on the surface of the painting (similar to if you use it in resin), with no other pigmentation to add any opacity (if you add some pearl/metallic/chameleon pigment or paint to a different colored acrylic, it may still show the effect to some extent, depending on the transparency & ratio, but there’ll still be some opacity obscuring it, & the other color showing, & that creates a very different effect which I think could tolerate a little floetrol a bit better), I suspect that adding floetrol, because it would add some opacity to the dried paint, would really muck up the effect, making it look more similar to those other cases where there’s opaque pigmentation mixed in with the reflective pigments.
Again, I’m probably being perfectionist if in that way- most people would probably never notice the difference, & I haven’t done extensive tests to see exactly how badly floetrol contributed to opacity/whitening (because I don’t have extra materials to expend, but it’s a tendency I noticed in early paintings)… But what I’ve been doing works for me, & it makes sense to me why it would, so I figure if it’s no real extra trouble, why not make a point of utilizing these resources as rationally & efficiently as I can? And while other aspects of my technique definitely need work, & I want to learn many more types of pours, I do think that on the paintings where the effects really shine through because they’re only mixed with the most transparent additives, it REALLY makes them pop & the results speak for themselves!
Also worth mentioning, in addition to the paint, floetrol &/or pouring medium, & water, I’m also using a bit of liquid polycrylic in every color (semigloss, though I’m interested to experiment with different combos of matte or satin products with semi-gloss ones to see if I can find the perfect balance where I get some brilliance & gloss, but the painting is still clearly viewable from most/all angles; I’m not sure I like how reflective my paintings become when I go glossy on the pointing medium, AND semi-gloss on the polycrylic mix, & semi-gloss on all the varnishes/finishes- it’s just too much of a good thing, but idk exactly what the rules are for layering materials of varying glossiness- what combo will be better vs just muddying up the gloss or undermining the matteness.
Super cool! Thank you for this series 🤗🤗
Thank you Tammy. I'm doing the whole course and sharing. Fabulous
Thank you so much for your help.
Will we be learning how to resin a painting? I’m so new to all of this! Thank you for thinking of the newbies like myself who really need this step by step instruction! You’re an excellent teacher!
Thanks again Tammy!
Thank you for the great information! So helpful and also thanks for your show of support for silicone, a lot of the artists talk about it like it is a bad thing.
Thank you Tammy❤
Thank you for doing this series. It is great. I would also love to see a video of how you clean the silicone off!
Herev you go friend ua-cam.com/video/4fdHqYSm7d0/v-deo.html
@@tammyandersonart you're the best!!
You my dear are absolutely amazing!
And your talent is out of this world!
I wanted to learn the pouring technique but seeing your artwork I know I could never do that your artwork is the most beautiful artwork !!
I absolutely adore you and I hope you're well
Awww ty my friend. That means more to me than you know😘
Great painting btw!!
Cool pic.. lov it
I love that lts beautiful. And lm planing on ordering some paint
Thank you, Tammy !
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I have learned a lot from you already. I am starting the cheap route until I am more comfortable with it. I am pretty crafty but not so much with numbers, lol you made it simple!!!!
I am learning a lot. Thank You
Have you tried the Glue, water and "vegetable glycerin" pouring medium recipe yet?
No I have not. I'll have to look into that one . I have heard of people using the glycerin but have not myself 😘
Does it give cell action?
It was a "pouring medium" video by Clive5Art here on UA-cam.
Apparently in the olden day glue, water and vegetable glycerin were the Floetrol of the era.
I forget why, but for some reason they stopped adding it.
I searched YT for videos using "vegetable glycerin, glue, water, medium, paint" there are some available.
I'm going to go watch a few and see what the deal-e-o is.😂
@@suzeedavis-luse9381 Yes
Thank you! 💕
Great video.
Thank you so much for this!
Hi Tamy, great to see your recipe mechanisms and very helpful. Can you show a recipe for dutch pour with glue and water ? That would save a lot a questions to many beginners artists like me and will be grateful.
Thanks always. 😊
Thanks! 👍👍
Thank you!
Yes mam thank you
Thank you so much.👌
Thank you so much for all this info and in such an easy to understand format. In yesterday's video you stated that everyone uses different recipes to get cells. I was watching a video last night. The artist used Dawn dish soap to make cells. It actually worked. How he thought of using soap, I don't know. Lol.
Oh yes I think I saw him. Yea isn't it crazy all these things people are using for cells. Yesterday somebody told me they're using vegetable glycerin. Never tried that on but hey,, you never know🤣
@@tammyandersonart When you are an artist of any genre you have to be creative. Some artists are taking it to another level. 😂
Love your videos. I’m new to painting pouring. Learning a lot from you. What I struggle with is how much paint I need. I’ve stuck with 8 x 10 canvas. How do you personally come up with how much you need? Some videos say 4 oz. I get confused is that just 4 oz of paint without pouring medium . or is that with paint and pouring medium combined. Hope that is not a silly question. I thought maybe you could help me. I want to do more pouring. Thanks!
I am a beginner and am so excited to try your techniques and recipes. Love your teaching! One thing that is not apparent to me, and it's probably a dumb question, but when you refer to the "description below" what do I click on?
Tammy, what is your paint -to -canvas ratio multiplier?
So for instance if you’re doing an 8 x 10“ canvas (80 sq inches) and you use 3 ounces of paint that would be a .0468 multiplier.
Once we know your multiplier for each of those 3 big techniques, then it’s really easy for us to make sure we’re using the proper amount of paint.
With the multiplier, you can take any square inch canvas and know how much paint to use. So if we’re doing a 12 x 12 canvas that is 144 in.² we can take that times .0468 and it tells us we need 6.7 (or about 6.5-7) ounces of paint.
Thank you for your help on this.
I really enjoyed your video especially when using glue and water I am a first time beginner so I want to start off with just glue and water and you made it real easy and simple. I would like to know more from you so I’ll be looking for your video by the way, my name is vinia
That was awesome, what again do you do with the paint that drips off?
Ty my friend 💓 so you can let it dry as is and peel it up and then use it to make jewelry or I actually have a nice piece from another project that I'm going to use when making a tumbler. You can glue them on a canvas and make art that way. The possibilities are endless.
What you do is awesome...you can see the love people have for you being a good teacher...Do you already have a video of how you use the skins for jewelry....thanks for all you do
@@54foxxy Thank you so much my friend. No I do not but I will make one when I get back from vacation .😘
Hi Tammy, you're AWESOME my East Coast friend! How long do you suggest that I wait until my Acrylic paints dry on canvas or wood before adding my resin?
Thank you for another very informative video. I only have one question: once you have prepared your medium (glue and water), how many parts of it do you put in 1 part of paint?
I'm sorry to hear that the paint - glue - water mixture is no good for dutch pour. I hope I will find another recipe which is inexpensive.
Tammy tammy tammy ....thank you so much for video 1 ..and 2 I've learnt so much taken notes ....I live in the uk 🇬🇧 and getting flotroll is very expensive shipping wise ....so in uk we have owetrol ....have you ever tried it in place of flotrol useing all the same in gradients such as liquitex pouring med gloss and satin enamel....would you get same effects useing owetrole...thank you tammy x
Hello I am a newbee and will start my first painting this weekend. Can I ask how much paint do you leave on the canvass. Do you leave a lot or very little on the canvass please😊
In South Africa pouring is not yet well known so pouring medium very expensive. Also no elmers glue here, very expensive to import. I use pva wood glue, works just as good. Sometimes also have cracking, but now I know why
I have a question. Can you mix ColourArt pigments with flotrol or another pouring medium or do you have to mix them just with Vivid Enamel
Hi Tammy! Following this video and wondering how you mix your base paint. Is it house paint or your own mixture?
some of the best artist use glue and water
I'm unable to buy reasonably priced floetrol where I live. Is it possible to use Pouring Medium and just water for Dutch pours?
Please will you show how you clean with dish soap after using silicone
Would this still apply if I use any kind of satin enamel paint like folk art??
Future Recipe Series Request: Would you start giving actual ratios and measurements when teaching us how to make PMs and mix our paints? For example, the glue-all portion of this video doesn't tell us what the Paint/PM ratio is, and you use measurements like "about a grape size" and "I'd say that's about" portion guesses. Grapes are a solid that cannot completely and evenly fill a measuring spoon like a liquid tube paint, and "about" measurements are left open to a very wide interpretation.
Plenty of artists who take the time to measure out their eyeballed portions find out their guessed measurements are off, which is why following a recipe in the beginning and using actual measurements is so useful to beginners ... Watching a recipe tutorial without the recipe and actual measurements is like watching a foreign movie without subtitles. It may be cool to look at, but we're still clueless at the end🙂
I understand what your saying but there is the issue of unless you use my exact colors and brands of paint that I use in this video, measurements will not be the same and therefore useless for you. I have a ton of exact measurements videos already in which I tell people use these exact brands or the measurements won't matter and this series is more for explaining what different recipes there are to use and what you can use them for. For example this video here. The glue and water recipe. I explain what it can be used for and I gave you the exact measurements 70 percent glue 30 percent water, to make the pouring medium as I did in the other videos. I can tell you to use 1 teaspoon of paint and 3 teaspoons of the pouring medium we made with the paint im using but now you may go and use a totally different brand that these measurements won't work for it because maybe your paint brand is thinner or thicker so again I say we can only give you a starting point. You will never get and exact measurement that will be guaranteed to work when it comes to paint mixing. Making the pouring medium, yes those we can give you exact measurements which I did in this video.ill be sure to address this in the next video so you can actually see what I'm talking about!
@@tammyandersonart I 100% agree with you 😊 Knowing your Paint/PM ratio for the specific type of paint you're using will give us a starting point. And this is what's so exciting for newbies! Having a basic starting point with specific paint/pm ratios, being able to understand why and when we need to make our own tweaks, and it's all because a fabulous artist like you took the time to teach us your ways. 🤗😍
Can you use a gel medium such as Amsterdam gloss gel medium as a thickener??
Absolutely. Actually people are starting to use that only to make their pouring medium. That and some water if it's too thick.
@@tammyandersonart I tried that a couple days ago honestly I'm not a fan not only is it hard to mix up you don't get the effects like cells using it and even the cell activator didn't respond well to it but it will work in some recipes if you aren't looking for cells or lacing
Tammy dear. helpppppp
lol. I use glue and water because I don't want lacing. what else can I use but the above?. nooo lacing?
Is your white titanium? It seems to sink quickly when you pour it into the cup
Yes it is my friend. Great observation by the way. Titanium white is much heavier than other colors but it wasn't sinking that rapidly. Its because the video was fast forwarded and it makes it seem like it's sinking really fast however it did sink a bit and that again is due to the Titanium being a much heavier substance
Aussie floetrol smells like Elmer's glue. So I tried mixing 4 parts glue all 2 parts water 2 parts American floetrol 1 part paint. Created cells. Tammy let me know what you think about this recipe
Sorry 4 parts floetrol
Your right. The American smells like glue and water to me also. Yes I can't remember who it was that made a really good cell activator with just American Floetrol and paint but the key was more Floetrol. She tested Amsterdam white paint with 7 parts floetrol it worked but not great. She then tried 9 parts and it worked fabulous.. As for the glue. The glue is just an added bonus if you Ask me. It seems to stabilize things and keep those cells really nice and circular and in fact a lot of times I will add it to my black cell activator just as an insurance. I have a black glue from blick art supplies that is amazing. I had used it on its own with just water and got it to react so there's so many ways of doing this But I tend to be lazy and just dump The Australian floetrol into my paint lol
70 % PVA and 30 % water is the correct formula.
Tammy, we’re you using spring water? Aren’t we supposed to only use distilled water? I’m so confused…..
The glue and water recipe causes crackes ---- was it because it was too thick maybe ????
Yes if your getting cracks your paint is too thick❤