Thanks for making this. I used PG44A grease instead of 767A, works like a charm. When disassembling I had an issue with the second spider leg rod. It must have been loctited really well because I couldn’t get it to budge at all. What I instead did was I unscrewed the top plate from the internals and lifted it as far up to the connector as possible which allowed the rear clutch arm the lift a lot higher which because of its design created a little more space between it and the plastic disc. Then I rotated the plastic clutch disc so that the 45° cut was where the clutch arms are intersecting at said spider leg rod., to alleviate any pinching points. From there it was possible to remove it without taking off the rod. Could also work on the other clutch as well! The clutch design with the thin groves is a much more capable design than what I have seen from my Gunfighter MK3, too bad Virpil doesent ship it with dampening grease preapplied.
Thanks a lot for the guide! It's a game changer! Strange that After one year from the solution virpil doesn't add some lube from factory! Thanks again!
I recently bought the cm3 base and the virpil collective. While waiting for them to be shipped, I found your video. I will definetly add some nyogel to my base too based on your experience and your video makes it quite clear how to proceed. I also found people adding nyogel to the collective base and counterweight. I was wondering if you did it to yours and if the process is as simple!?
Thanks for the video, I was immediately disappointed in the clutches when I got two CM3 bases a few weeks ago, the stiction is awful, So I added Nyogel after a few days, it’s not perfect but it’s much better than it was. If VKB knows this is an issue enough to do a tutorial video on how to apply Nyogel to their clutches surely Virpil, especially after the same stiction issue in their collectives should have known better.
Any thoughts about using other lubricants, even something like a dry lube spray where we can try to spray it on instead of taking apart? (E.g. WD-40 ptfe dry lube)
@@Wicaeed1 prfe dry lube is literally written on the can. It’s not grease but it is lube….might not be comparable to what this video suggested (I already did the mod) but again it is classified as lube.
All good BUT a helio cyclic is like a return-to-centre joystick, except it returns to the point where you initiated trim (when trim is active). This stick doesn’t….
They never claimed otherwise. Unfortunately, options are extremely limited. You either have the old force feedback joysticks that don't have native extensions or the 1500 dollar underpowered Brunner or solutions that are over 10k.
@@clintonadams7942 there is one option coming soon, but nothing mass market. Check out VPForce RHINO. Can’t wait to have a good FFB stick with extension.
Thanks for making this. I used PG44A grease instead of 767A, works like a charm. When disassembling I had an issue with the second spider leg rod. It must have been loctited really well because I couldn’t get it to budge at all. What I instead did was I unscrewed the top plate from the internals and lifted it as far up to the connector as possible which allowed the rear clutch arm the lift a lot higher which because of its design created a little more space between it and the plastic disc. Then I rotated the plastic clutch disc so that the 45° cut was where the clutch arms are intersecting at said spider leg rod., to alleviate any pinching points. From there it was possible to remove it without taking off the rod. Could also work on the other clutch as well!
The clutch design with the thin groves is a much more capable design than what I have seen from my Gunfighter MK3, too bad Virpil doesent ship it with dampening grease preapplied.
Thanks a lot for the guide! It's a game changer! Strange that After one year from the solution virpil doesn't add some lube from factory! Thanks again!
Very good tutorial, did this today with my CM3 base, the difference really is night and day!
I recently bought the cm3 base and the virpil collective. While waiting for them to be shipped, I found your video. I will definetly add some nyogel to my base too based on your experience and your video makes it quite clear how to proceed. I also found people adding nyogel to the collective base and counterweight. I was wondering if you did it to yours and if the process is as simple!?
sadly due to my collective being close to the floor, I cannot use a counter weight balance, so no point in my putting nyogel on the collective 😞
Thanks for the video, I was immediately disappointed in the clutches when I got two CM3 bases a few weeks ago, the stiction is awful, So I added Nyogel after a few days, it’s not perfect but it’s much better than it was. If VKB knows this is an issue enough to do a tutorial video on how to apply Nyogel to their clutches surely Virpil, especially after the same stiction issue in their collectives should have known better.
Any thoughts about using other lubricants, even something like a dry lube spray where we can try to spray it on instead of taking apart? (E.g. WD-40 ptfe dry lube)
WD-40 isn't a freaking lubricant!
@@Wicaeed1 prfe dry lube is literally written on the can. It’s not grease but it is lube….might not be comparable to what this video suggested (I already did the mod) but again it is classified as lube.
do you use springs in your CM3 when flying heli's or leave it as a dead stick with just the clutches?
dead stick , take hands off it does not move
@@HavocCompanyClan I'm going to try the same today, Nyogel arrived a few days ago. Thanks for the guide.
I have a cm2 base, how similar is it to add the nyogel to that?
Since there are no dampers on the CM2 , there is nothing to apply to nyogel to
@@HavocCompanyClan but there must be a way to get that dampening feeling on the CM2 base? How did they apply nyogel to the T16000M then?
Can't screw off that 14 spider legs nut. Don't know if they used loctite, but it won't budge....
same here @,@
@@Spelljammer1 it IS imperial...I believe 5/32 got it for me, but I'm not sure. Definitely worked though
ua-cam.com/video/STRCWdQKZJw/v-deo.html Sure enough this guy perfectly fit a 7/32 SAE Imperial (14 spider leg) socket I had lying around,
xD 14 spider legs...
All good BUT a helio cyclic is like a return-to-centre joystick, except it returns to the point where you initiated trim (when trim is active). This stick doesn’t….
They never claimed otherwise. Unfortunately, options are extremely limited. You either have the old force feedback joysticks that don't have native extensions or the 1500 dollar underpowered Brunner or solutions that are over 10k.
Without FFB this is the best you will get, why did you expect otherwise?
@@clintonadams7942 there is one option coming soon, but nothing mass market. Check out VPForce RHINO. Can’t wait to have a good FFB stick with extension.
@@WhiteHawk77 Guess I expect to stop saying it the best, or perfect, or great, or “I got a real pilot to test this, it’s so realistic“
@@clintonadams7942 Well I use the MS Sidewinder 2 FFB. It really IS somewhat realistic.