Keep an eye on the channel. Im putting an engine together soon that will be an example. I definitely dont have 10k in this life time. But its also being ready to make deals when they come.
If you look I got about 5 thou worth of parts for a thousand bucks plus a brand new engine hoist a motor stand and a welder they look all brand new I got everything to rebuild a 440 stock I got a 440 complete a transmission plus all the parts I can use for trade it’s for a 68 charger I’m building a 71 dart swinger I also got a brand new intake eddy and a brand new double pumper holly purple shaft cam and on and on the guy gave me a charger grill and a front valance plus lots of other parts all for a thou all brand new rings I could go on and on
Nothing I like better than a build it as cheap as you can engine build. Especially one with the goal of 10 second quarter miles. I consider buying second hand speed parts like buying a car that's a couple years old. Let the original buyer take the new price hit. You can find some great deals most of the time but every now and then you come across a seller that thinks their 5 year old used parts are somehow worth the same price as new parts (or more LOL).
Good for you if you look the parts are out ther the hardest thing to find is aluminum heads for cheap but ther out ther to being at the right place at right time and coin in your pocket or something they want
Not broke, but definitely on a budget. Mostly second hand parts, example heads I got set up for a solid roller for 300 bucks. I ported them and they currently flow 50 plus cfm at peak. My time has value but it saves me too. I bulit the trans, rear etc. Even the roller shell was picked up for 2300 two years ago. So broke no, but I'll dare you to find a cheaper built low 10 second N/a car.
@@brokejoebuilds5165 I just pulled my 72 Ventura into the shop to start a very low buck build on it. I'll be detailing how much everything costs as it progresses. I do things a lot like you do, building rear ends, transmissions, engines, I do pretty much everything rather than paying a shop to do it. The difference is I run Pontiac engines, they can make a lot of power under 6000rpm for real cheap. I traded a guy a pair of 69 Chevelle bucket seats for the car with no engine or transmission back in the mid 90s. The seats came with another vehicle just so he could get rid of them, so the Ventura was essentially free. It was a straight six with manual brakes, steering, and a Th350, they were going to turn it into a dirt circle track car. Its a sleeper build, I'm not touching the body or whats left of the paint.
@@thehouseofhorsepowerautobo4506 i appreciate the encouragement. Should be posting a few more videos on this car soon. Raced it this pass weekend, I race on a budget because its really the only way I can lol.
@@brokejoebuilds5165 I'm right there with ya bro! I bought a project G-body that someone did an LS swap but never finished it. Hopefully as I get more money and time I can get it finished up and post some videos when I get it to the track!
@@brokejoebuilds5165 Oh, I must of missed you saying that. A 370 is different, you have to be the only one at the track with one of those. People must get flabbergasted when they here you have a 370 sbc on the loud speaker. Or do you call it a 350 at the track? Whatever you call it you sure do have it running good. Are you planning on going to the NNN this year?(No Name Nationals the tube of you race?) I think you need a thousand subs to enter though?🤔 Not sure though, maybe 500? But I do think there is a subscription amount in the rules to enter. If you are, I can ask the small channels to help with a sub and maybe a shout out if the NNN is a goal of yours? Let me know.😎👍
@@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852 I talked about it with my dad. He and I agreeed it would be cool, as I get closer to the date I would consider it more seriously, but as of now lets say 50/50.
@@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852 if someone asks I normally will give a load down on the combination.. unless it a grudge race, and if it keeps getting faster I might have to do that 😆
What does this car weigh ? Sorry if I missed it. Roll cage/bar ? My 383 71 Nova with power steering, interior, street drag radials mufflers and tail pipes over the differential and pump gas runs 10.28 just the way its driven 2000+ miles a year. I have about 8k in the engine.
Well, they average Joe only makes so much money and I never had it so I never could afford to really build an engine like I wanted to so it doesn’t work even secondhand parts were expensive. You should know that I do admire everything that you seem to know what to do for as young as you sound, I’m 72 years old
Im 36 years-old, this is all I loved doing as a kid. My dad is a mechanic and used to race. He did the best he could with the limited founds. This you tube is really homage to him. My foundation he gave me, built my first engine, transmission, rear, taught me to weld and fabricate all by him. I just took what he taught me and built upon it. Thanks for checking on the channel. Im gonna do a buttom of the bucket cheap build soon.
Lol 😅 I'm working on it, the bbc will get in there. Im still gathering parts.. almost there though. I will have to build another transmission too. The sbc will go into the chevette long term.
This motor belongs to my green chevette. Since im doing the chassis on that car, i put it in the nova in the mean time. I have a 406 that I will be building on the channel, might end up in the nova as well. If I run a 9 with this motor I will be ecstatic. We try again this weekend
110 lsa is probably really close to where you want to be on that engine depending on a few things. Good job not going with a wide LSA cam. Research David Vizard if you ever want to re-cam it or do more head work, because getting the correct LSA for your displacement to valve area ratio is priority 1 (as well as high port energy in the heads) for a good power curve. After that, total overlap at advertised duration (not .050, that "doesn't" matter) will determine the characteristics of idle and how high it carries the torque in the powerband. And obviously lift will dictate max flow potential. And JSYK you don't need a multi-pattern cam, that's industry sham BS to cope with the fact that they can't make cams that make power everywhere on the graph and they, by design, must sacrifice low end for top end, whereas when you set LSA and total advance first, you never have to do that.
If you watch some of my later videos I do change the cam in it. That cam was picked because at the time I was going to hit it with 300 shot of nitrous in the chevette. That car car is still getting the chassis done. The new cam is a 106 installed on a 106. I have yet to dial it in but confident it will take me into the 9s
@@brokejoebuilds5165 I think 106 might be a bit narrow on a 2.02 valve 350, especially at 13:1 compression, actually, I just did the math with David Vizard's 128 formula, and yeah, with 13:1 and a 2.02 valve 350, you should still be at the 110-111 range for LSA and 107-108 intake centerline... IDK your total duration or lift numbers on the previous or current cam, but I trust DVs numbers and would've just increased overlap on the 110 to get more power. Of course, there are also a myriad of other things you can do to optimize your build. He goes into port shaping, combustion chamber shaping, quench(a big one), and if you have an exhaust port that reverses flow on the bottom side, you can put a little wedge plate in there to prevent that reversion and gain 20hp or so, he says. That's to say nothing of making header flanges that smooth the transition from port shape to primary tube shape, or making a set of even fire, stepped, tri-Y. And I'm not even talking about 180-degree headers but specifically calculated unequal lengths on the two cylinders (in each respective bank) that fire back-to-back in order to make their pulses arrive at the collector more correctly timed than a cross-plane V8 typically allows. If you do it perfectly, it should sound like two 4-cylinder engines running side by side if you have a divorced dual exhaust system. But at the same time, if you're running divorced duals, you're leaving power on the table there, too. A single exit is ideal for scavenging, you just have to size it at least 1/3 larger than your collector diameter, ideally 1.4x larger for absolutely no restriction. A good example of the 1.4x is dual 2.5 into single 3.5, good for roughly 500-550 crank at the most. Dual 3 into single 4 is the 1/3 larger rule, which could increase velocity a little bit if dual 3 is somewhat overshooting it for your build. Single 4-inch, by the numbers, is good for 650-700hp at the crank, with dual 3-inch a little higher at 740-800hp crank. Though a 350ci following DVs 1.4lb-ft per cubic inch rule and making peak power at 6500-6600 should be around 610hp and 490lb-ft. Peak at 7300-7400 should result in around 690hp.
Curent cam has about 96 degrees of overlap and I love David vizard and he is right on about 95 percent of the things he says. But a dyno and a car are different things and more hp on a dyno doesn't always mean quicker et. Grumpy said it best, I dont race dynos.
@@brokejoebuilds5165 DV, to my knowledge does cars just as much, if not more than Dynos, in that metaphorical sense. It's far more complicated, as you well know, than just "get x engine efficiency, pair it with Y transmission and Z tires, and you're gold" but from what I've read and watched everything he says comes from a combination of bench testing, rigorous calculations, dyno _tuning,_ and is then followed up by real-world testing and confirmation. That, AND we are currently talking about just the engine. I don't know about the rest of your setup, but if you have to "make" it work by "cheating" the cam or other parts of the engine in certain ways to bias the response or output, then you literally have to do what you have to do to get a better ET. Racing dynos is, indeed, stupid unless that is exactly and only what you intend to do. Also, who's Grumpy?
I love an engine build like this, proves you don’t have to be rich to make decent power, I think you should push it into the 9’s with the iron heads, that would be badass. So these are Dart II heads or World Sportsman II’s?
@@brokejoebuilds5165 lol....yup have one going in a 2001sliverado ...replacing the v6.......aiming for 12s on motor and low 11s or better on the bottle!!!
Im interested in going fast cheap budget builds since everything is so expensive id like to copy you engine you should to a partlist but i would build other cheap motors like a 327 it would be fun to see what yoi could build with a 305 or 307 or 283 just to be different
I will be doing other builds and may do a odd ball in the future. The reality you can pick up 350 real cheap now and its almost counter productive to build anything with smaller than a 4in bore. I do have an idea for a fast cheap 350.. i mean real cheap and should be enough power to run well into the 11s.
@@brokejoebuilds5165 What're the limits in RPM when it comes to valvetrain? It'd be real interesting if you could make a 4-inch bore swing to 10k+ without needing frequent rebuilds, but you'd ideally need a 3 or 3.25 stroke to do so. On the other hand, if it's not viable and 8k-9k is more of the practical limit, there's no sense going below a 3.5 stroke because 3.5 (mathematically speaking) can handle that range no problem, so you might as well have more cubes, right?
@@Drunken_Hamster ok this will be more long winded to answer, for a push rod v8 with a in line head, non canted valve like a sbc somwhere in the 9k range will be the limit for a engine that makes good reasonable power at rpm. There are tons of factors that go into a build that regularly sees above 8500 rpm with a sbc. For starters the shorter the arm and lower the displacement the easier it will be for a 23 degree head to keep up between flow and cross section the heads become limited with larger displacement. The chamber design lacks efficiency and power will plateau. At that rpm everything matters, cam design, valvetrain weight, Spring rate, clearaces all equals expensive parts with higher service intervals. Example: buddy of mine runs super stock with a 350 combo. He regularly breakes valvetrain parts all the time. The rules limit certain things including a 11/32 steel valve and it takes a ton of spring to keep everything happy at 9k and a manual. 1200lbs of open pressure is hard on everything and even with lighter components you would still need 800lbs plus to keep everything happy. The bottom end would be the easiest thing to sort out. Maybe I can do a video on this because there are so many factors I havent even hit. Here is a rule of thumb for a sbc 350, 7k rpm not to hard 8k everything needs to be right 8500 we need more exotic stuff to keep her alive long, 8500 and up deep pockets.
@@brokejoebuilds5165 Is the LS platform any easier to spin high or is it kinda a similar story? What about SBF or modulars? I'd assume that being SOHC the modular valvetrain could handle it a little easier since it's two cams doing the work and no pushrods or lifter slugs adding mass to the system.
@@Drunken_Hamster the ls platform is indeed better for rpm especially on a budget. 8mm valves, large cam core, more stable valvetrain than stud mounts and heads move a fair bit of air easily. So far easier starting point for sure.
If you can find the parts used that you'll need and they're good nothing new about using used parts. Every engine I've rebuilt was from a junkyard or second hand. Those JE pistons aren't cheap good find if they fit the bill. FYI pretty much everyone selling aftermarket rods are getting the casting from China even scat.
Good eye, they are sportsman II castings, but these are casted by world products. Both pairs I have are casted by world, the other set I have is a new casting more recent.
Weren't the Sportsman II heads one of the original aftermarket performance cylinder heads? I remember back in the mid 1990s my buddy had a 1974 Nova with those heads or similar name ending in II lol and they were ported so much that a couple of spots had to be brazed. Huge intake runners. Was kind of a slug until it reached about 3500 then the power band came on STRONG.
@@robertwest3093 exactly that they were originally made by dart and world makes the current castings. They have changed over the years, they can make power with porting. Alot of material to cut out!!!
220 afr. Howards solid roller cam 273/287 at 50 680/650 lift 112 Lisa rings gapped for a 300 plus. But probably won't see over a 200 maybe a 250 at the most because of the block. 1050 carb with super vic intake. 1.5 rockers 4500 stall with 350 trans with brake and 4.56 gears
I use a crank case evap set up so the exaust pulls the vacuum. Not enough oil should ever come out of the system. But Ive heard problems with them with mufflers that provide any level of back pressure.
I have blow by on my small block Chevy 350 in my S10 Blazer how is your setup what's the easiest way to go about this because Mom smokes out those and I have them hooked to the carburetor it makes it not run too well sometimes and get my carburetor dirty
At my track when i got my car in the 10s i had to put in a roll cage ,10.99 1/4 mile is the threshold at my local tracks for a roll cage
The car has a 8 point and everything is good for 10.0 but I will be looking to go quicker than that.... hopefully
Depends on your definition of cheap I guess! Your average guy does'nt have $10,000 worth of parts laying around!!!!
Keep an eye on the channel. Im putting an engine together soon that will be an example. I definitely dont have 10k in this life time. But its also being ready to make deals when they come.
If you look I got about 5 thou worth of parts for a thousand bucks plus a brand new engine hoist a motor stand and a welder they look all brand new I got everything to rebuild a 440 stock I got a 440 complete a transmission plus all the parts I can use for trade it’s for a 68 charger I’m building a 71 dart swinger I also got a brand new intake eddy and a brand new double pumper holly purple shaft cam and on and on the guy gave me a charger grill and a front valance plus lots of other parts all for a thou all brand new rings I could go on and on
You’re way ahead of the curve …a lot of people got away from what you’re doing . Great job 👍🏾
I appreciate that 🙏
Nothing I like better than a build it as cheap as you can engine build. Especially one with the goal of 10 second quarter miles. I consider buying second hand speed parts like buying a car that's a couple years old. Let the original buyer take the new price hit. You can find some great deals most of the time but every now and then you come across a seller that thinks their 5 year old used parts are somehow worth the same price as new parts (or more LOL).
Ill post a video soon with the racks of stuff I have 😆 🤣 yea... it can be problematic lo
ESPECIALLY in Australia 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Every running engine runs on used parts. I love a good "spare parts build".
Good analogy lol
Get it on the track
@Doug-b4p look at my more recent videos to see it run.. currently making changes hopefully out for the weekend
Good for you if you look the parts are out ther the hardest thing to find is aluminum heads for cheap but ther out ther to being at the right place at right time and coin in your pocket or something they want
Run it and see how it goes and then watch you progress
@@JeffLeblanc-xb7qe just posted a video from last week at the track and will be posting a update to that in the coming days.
What transmission and what's ur gear ratio
Powerglide with 4.56 gears. You can see the car run in some of the other videos
I can look at that engine and the car, and I know you are not "broke"!
Not broke, but definitely on a budget. Mostly second hand parts, example heads I got set up for a solid roller for 300 bucks. I ported them and they currently flow 50 plus cfm at peak. My time has value but it saves me too. I bulit the trans, rear etc. Even the roller shell was picked up for 2300 two years ago. So broke no, but I'll dare you to find a cheaper built low 10 second N/a car.
@@brokejoebuilds5165 I just pulled my 72 Ventura into the shop to start a very low buck build on it. I'll be detailing how much everything costs as it progresses. I do things a lot like you do, building rear ends, transmissions, engines, I do pretty much everything rather than paying a shop to do it. The difference is I run Pontiac engines, they can make a lot of power under 6000rpm for real cheap.
I traded a guy a pair of 69 Chevelle bucket seats for the car with no engine or transmission back in the mid 90s. The seats came with another vehicle just so he could get rid of them, so the Ventura was essentially free. It was a straight six with manual brakes, steering, and a Th350, they were going to turn it into a dirt circle track car. Its a sleeper build, I'm not touching the body or whats left of the paint.
Sorry just saw your comment seems like a fun build for sure... I like the venturas myself
Glad I found your channel! Super cool! I built my last fox body with used parts! Drove it to the track and had a blast!
@@thehouseofhorsepowerautobo4506 i appreciate the encouragement. Should be posting a few more videos on this car soon. Raced it this pass weekend, I race on a budget because its really the only way I can lol.
@@brokejoebuilds5165 I'm right there with ya bro! I bought a project G-body that someone did an LS swap but never finished it. Hopefully as I get more money and time I can get it finished up and post some videos when I get it to the track!
@@thehouseofhorsepowerautobo4506 record and share... i would support
@@brokejoebuilds5165 thank you! I appreciate that! I'll be following yours as well!
No start up ? Damn it
Lol, in some of the later videos on my channel you can not only hear it, you can watch her run down the track. Check them out! Thanks for watching!
Always go for the splayed caps if you're going to add billet caps. Other than that great build.😎👍
Oh, maybe keep turning up the nos until you find its weakness?😁👍
If I started with a 2 bolt block I would have. But your 100% right!
@@brokejoebuilds5165
Oh, I must of missed you saying that. A 370 is different, you have to be the only one at the track with one of those. People must get flabbergasted when they here you have a 370 sbc on the loud speaker. Or do you call it a 350 at the track?
Whatever you call it you sure do have it running good. Are you planning on going to the NNN this year?(No Name Nationals the tube of you race?) I think you need a thousand subs to enter though?🤔 Not sure though, maybe 500? But I do think there is a subscription amount in the rules to enter.
If you are, I can ask the small channels to help with a sub and maybe a shout out if the NNN is a goal of yours? Let me know.😎👍
@@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852 I talked about it with my dad. He and I agreeed it would be cool, as I get closer to the date I would consider it more seriously, but as of now lets say 50/50.
@@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852 if someone asks I normally will give a load down on the combination.. unless it a grudge race, and if it keeps getting faster I might have to do that 😆
Crank trigger
Working on it, actually have to setup to install going to do a before and after
Great vid!! What transmission is in it and what gear set do you have in the 8.5? Thanks.
Powerglide and 4.56... I'll be stretching her legs May 3rd. Should easily get a pb with the car.
👍
What does this car weigh ? Sorry if I missed it. Roll cage/bar ? My 383 71 Nova with power steering, interior, street drag radials mufflers and tail pipes over the differential and pump gas runs 10.28 just the way its driven 2000+ miles a year. I have about 8k in the engine.
3000 pounds, 370 it has a 8 point. Making some changes looking for 9s
Right now, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it run the shit out of it
Well, they average Joe only makes so much money and I never had it so I never could afford to really build an engine like I wanted to so it doesn’t work even secondhand parts were expensive. You should know that I do admire everything that you seem to know what to do for as young as you sound, I’m 72 years old
Im 36 years-old, this is all I loved doing as a kid. My dad is a mechanic and used to race. He did the best he could with the limited founds. This you tube is really homage to him. My foundation he gave me, built my first engine, transmission, rear, taught me to weld and fabricate all by him. I just took what he taught me and built upon it. Thanks for checking on the channel. Im gonna do a buttom of the bucket cheap build soon.
Dude be a man a man and do what you can do with the big block and stop playing around with a baby motor you are vary smart and you know it🙂👍
Lol 😅 I'm working on it, the bbc will get in there. Im still gathering parts.. almost there though. I will have to build another transmission too. The sbc will go into the chevette long term.
10s on sbc is doing pretty good Id say
@gordocarbo thanks
Why go big block if you’re pulling your weight with a small block.
This motor belongs to my green chevette. Since im doing the chassis on that car, i put it in the nova in the mean time. I have a 406 that I will be building on the channel, might end up in the nova as well. If I run a 9 with this motor I will be ecstatic. We try again this weekend
110 lsa is probably really close to where you want to be on that engine depending on a few things. Good job not going with a wide LSA cam. Research David Vizard if you ever want to re-cam it or do more head work, because getting the correct LSA for your displacement to valve area ratio is priority 1 (as well as high port energy in the heads) for a good power curve.
After that, total overlap at advertised duration (not .050, that "doesn't" matter) will determine the characteristics of idle and how high it carries the torque in the powerband. And obviously lift will dictate max flow potential.
And JSYK you don't need a multi-pattern cam, that's industry sham BS to cope with the fact that they can't make cams that make power everywhere on the graph and they, by design, must sacrifice low end for top end, whereas when you set LSA and total advance first, you never have to do that.
If you watch some of my later videos I do change the cam in it. That cam was picked because at the time I was going to hit it with 300 shot of nitrous in the chevette. That car car is still getting the chassis done. The new cam is a 106 installed on a 106. I have yet to dial it in but confident it will take me into the 9s
@@brokejoebuilds5165 I think 106 might be a bit narrow on a 2.02 valve 350, especially at 13:1 compression, actually, I just did the math with David Vizard's 128 formula, and yeah, with 13:1 and a 2.02 valve 350, you should still be at the 110-111 range for LSA and 107-108 intake centerline... IDK your total duration or lift numbers on the previous or current cam, but I trust DVs numbers and would've just increased overlap on the 110 to get more power.
Of course, there are also a myriad of other things you can do to optimize your build. He goes into port shaping, combustion chamber shaping, quench(a big one), and if you have an exhaust port that reverses flow on the bottom side, you can put a little wedge plate in there to prevent that reversion and gain 20hp or so, he says. That's to say nothing of making header flanges that smooth the transition from port shape to primary tube shape, or making a set of even fire, stepped, tri-Y.
And I'm not even talking about 180-degree headers but specifically calculated unequal lengths on the two cylinders (in each respective bank) that fire back-to-back in order to make their pulses arrive at the collector more correctly timed than a cross-plane V8 typically allows. If you do it perfectly, it should sound like two 4-cylinder engines running side by side if you have a divorced dual exhaust system. But at the same time, if you're running divorced duals, you're leaving power on the table there, too.
A single exit is ideal for scavenging, you just have to size it at least 1/3 larger than your collector diameter, ideally 1.4x larger for absolutely no restriction. A good example of the 1.4x is dual 2.5 into single 3.5, good for roughly 500-550 crank at the most. Dual 3 into single 4 is the 1/3 larger rule, which could increase velocity a little bit if dual 3 is somewhat overshooting it for your build. Single 4-inch, by the numbers, is good for 650-700hp at the crank, with dual 3-inch a little higher at 740-800hp crank. Though a 350ci following DVs 1.4lb-ft per cubic inch rule and making peak power at 6500-6600 should be around 610hp and 490lb-ft. Peak at 7300-7400 should result in around 690hp.
This motor has a 2.05 valve and is a 5/8 storker at 370 cubes
Curent cam has about 96 degrees of overlap and I love David vizard and he is right on about 95 percent of the things he says. But a dyno and a car are different things and more hp on a dyno doesn't always mean quicker et. Grumpy said it best, I dont race dynos.
@@brokejoebuilds5165 DV, to my knowledge does cars just as much, if not more than Dynos, in that metaphorical sense. It's far more complicated, as you well know, than just "get x engine efficiency, pair it with Y transmission and Z tires, and you're gold" but from what I've read and watched everything he says comes from a combination of bench testing, rigorous calculations, dyno _tuning,_ and is then followed up by real-world testing and confirmation.
That, AND we are currently talking about just the engine. I don't know about the rest of your setup, but if you have to "make" it work by "cheating" the cam or other parts of the engine in certain ways to bias the response or output, then you literally have to do what you have to do to get a better ET. Racing dynos is, indeed, stupid unless that is exactly and only what you intend to do.
Also, who's Grumpy?
I love an engine build like this, proves you don’t have to be rich to make decent power, I think you should push it into the 9’s with the iron heads, that would be badass. So these are Dart II heads or World Sportsman II’s?
World sportsman 2... they are a little bit more more moder version of the same head. World only made small revisions on the casting.
Ls ?....
Sbc ...is still whers its at!!!!!!!!
Still the most common engine at the local tracks. Next would be bbc then sbf. Then ls platform. Gen 1 sbc is far from dead
@@brokejoebuilds5165 lol....yup have one going in a 2001sliverado
...replacing the v6.......aiming for 12s on motor and low 11s or better on the bottle!!!
@@pops3554 sounds like a fun truck
@@brokejoebuilds5165 thanks man
The right machine work,balancing,timing,tuning and your off to the races.Gen 1 sbc is still a threat on the streets today.
Do all the above! Makes for good content.
In the day the world sportsman ll was the head to have. It took work but they would make power.
Yea, they have been working well for me. Newer castings are better but with some love these heads really do work. Today I find out how well 😀
Take your set up and let's see the best times you can get
So far 10.4 129 but we are doing a cam change because the cam in it was leaving alot on the table. Feel free to check out some of my other videos
Im interested in going fast cheap budget builds since everything is so expensive id like to copy you engine you should to a partlist but i would build other cheap motors like a 327 it would be fun to see what yoi could build with a 305 or 307 or 283 just to be different
I will be doing other builds and may do a odd ball in the future. The reality you can pick up 350 real cheap now and its almost counter productive to build anything with smaller than a 4in bore. I do have an idea for a fast cheap 350.. i mean real cheap and should be enough power to run well into the 11s.
@@brokejoebuilds5165 What're the limits in RPM when it comes to valvetrain? It'd be real interesting if you could make a 4-inch bore swing to 10k+ without needing frequent rebuilds, but you'd ideally need a 3 or 3.25 stroke to do so. On the other hand, if it's not viable and 8k-9k is more of the practical limit, there's no sense going below a 3.5 stroke because 3.5 (mathematically speaking) can handle that range no problem, so you might as well have more cubes, right?
@@Drunken_Hamster ok this will be more long winded to answer, for a push rod v8 with a in line head, non canted valve like a sbc somwhere in the 9k range will be the limit for a engine that makes good reasonable power at rpm. There are tons of factors that go into a build that regularly sees above 8500 rpm with a sbc. For starters the shorter the arm and lower the displacement the easier it will be for a 23 degree head to keep up between flow and cross section the heads become limited with larger displacement. The chamber design lacks efficiency and power will plateau. At that rpm everything matters, cam design, valvetrain weight, Spring rate, clearaces all equals expensive parts with higher service intervals. Example: buddy of mine runs super stock with a 350 combo. He regularly breakes valvetrain parts all the time. The rules limit certain things including a 11/32 steel valve and it takes a ton of spring to keep everything happy at 9k and a manual. 1200lbs of open pressure is hard on everything and even with lighter components you would still need 800lbs plus to keep everything happy. The bottom end would be the easiest thing to sort out. Maybe I can do a video on this because there are so many factors I havent even hit. Here is a rule of thumb for a sbc 350, 7k rpm not to hard 8k everything needs to be right 8500 we need more exotic stuff to keep her alive long, 8500 and up deep pockets.
@@brokejoebuilds5165 Is the LS platform any easier to spin high or is it kinda a similar story? What about SBF or modulars? I'd assume that being SOHC the modular valvetrain could handle it a little easier since it's two cams doing the work and no pushrods or lifter slugs adding mass to the system.
@@Drunken_Hamster the ls platform is indeed better for rpm especially on a budget. 8mm valves, large cam core, more stable valvetrain than stud mounts and heads move a fair bit of air easily. So far easier starting point for sure.
If you can find the parts used that you'll need and they're good nothing new about using used parts. Every engine I've rebuilt was from a junkyard or second hand. Those JE pistons aren't cheap good find if they fit the bill. FYI pretty much everyone selling aftermarket rods are getting the casting from China even scat.
I think I got the pistons from skip white in there garage sale section. The pistons were new in the box but they were orderd in the early 2000s
Its the way to do it!
Let’s go mega hit
a little aerodynamic inner fender wells mifgt help
Maybe something I can test later 😁
Thank you for the reply on the headers are your heads angle plug or steaght
Mine are straight
Awesome build! Big fan of your content
Thanks
I wanna go fast! 😭
Send it
Wow! Looking good!
What headers do you have and part number I'd you know
Ill look it up in a few
Schoenfeld drag headers model 116.. 1 3/4 to a 3.5 exit
So its a 370 cid?
Yes sir. 4.030 bore 3.6250 stroke.
Front of the heads have a "sort of" GM style appearance..your other set as well?
Good eye, they are sportsman II castings, but these are casted by world products. Both pairs I have are casted by world, the other set I have is a new casting more recent.
Weren't the Sportsman II heads one of the original aftermarket performance cylinder heads? I remember back in the mid 1990s my buddy had a 1974 Nova with those heads or similar name ending in II lol and they were ported so much that a couple of spots had to be brazed. Huge intake runners. Was kind of a slug until it reached about 3500 then the power band came on STRONG.
@@robertwest3093 exactly that they were originally made by dart and world makes the current castings. They have changed over the years, they can make power with porting. Alot of material to cut out!!!
talk about fuel and timing please
I will be doing a video on just that very soon, be on the look out
thank you
@@markzylstra3200 of course, anything specific your looking for me to touch on?
@@brokejoebuilds5165 no not really just advice
What block are you using? An about what weight is the car?
010 block, originally 4 bolt with steel caps. As of weight, idk yet. I plan to scale it at the track this friday if the scales are open at the track.
Ok. I built a stock block 421. Just ran my personal best this weekend. 6.78 at 103. I weighed around 3500 with me in the truck.
@@keithfairley5335 solid performance, what head was on it?
220 afr. Howards solid roller cam 273/287 at 50 680/650 lift 112 Lisa rings gapped for a 300 plus. But probably won't see over a 200 maybe a 250 at the most because of the block. 1050 carb with super vic intake. 1.5 rockers 4500 stall with 350 trans with brake and 4.56 gears
@@keithfairley5335 im building a 406 soon on the channel. Similar type build all second hand studd instead of the cam. That I'm getting new
Weres the blow by go do you have a catch can
I use a crank case evap set up so the exaust pulls the vacuum. Not enough oil should ever come out of the system. But Ive heard problems with them with mufflers that provide any level of back pressure.
No need for a catch can on an NA sbc
@@brokejoebuilds5165 Wont make one need a catch can.
Seems to be part of the young peoples "full" bolt ons haha
@gordocarbo 💯
I have blow by on my small block Chevy 350 in my S10 Blazer how is your setup what's the easiest way to go about this because Mom smokes out those and I have them hooked to the carburetor it makes it not run too well sometimes and get my carburetor dirty