You're always giving us great information and I for one appreciate it. You're right about those angled plugs vs straight plugs, always inform the person when ordering your headers. Again I always use the washers on the heads, it spreads the clamping force a little wider 😊
Great video, only thing I would say is, with those head gaskets, make sure the rivets aren't getting pinched between the head and block. On an aftermarket block SBF build for example, sometimes you have to drill the rivets out because that's what happens. Also, the head gasket should be a minimum of .030 bigger than the bore. I know you said the gaskets were 4.38, I'm assuming the bore is 4.35, which would be fine.
The msd billet dizzy (and other tall shaft body models) will tend to clash on the corners of cast and machined valve covers, stock stamped clear easily. You can send those MP valve covers my way! I won't tell nobody :)
Great tips Joe! One thing I noticed on the bore scope portion of the video was the vertical rib seemed to have gouges or casting flash. Is it just an optical illusion due to the focal point of the camera lens or is that something you would 'clean up' to smooth out the flow?
Great , now I'm thinking back when I just slapped mine on and hit the bolts with a few uga dugas 😂 Seriously though good tip about the pushrods, we ran into that with the nacho with 1.6 rocker conversion
I would be scared to do so, without the proper equipment. It’s not really a bad thing, for higher performance engines. We are using cam that has a full groove around that cam bearing, with the holes. It will get plenty of oil.
Another weird thing about head gaskets is some are labeled say, 4.500" bore. But that is the size of the actual hole. Then another brand is labeled 4.500" bore but the actual size is larger for a 4.500" cylinder. You always have to check the real size. Good tips as always.
Nice little class on how to install your own heads. If your worried about the dowel pin and the contact between the deck and the head you can use blueing,
Your videos and comments are always great when you're talking about aluminum heads and your roller cams You never mentioned a distributor gear if you're running a bronze one or a standard 1. Just wondering if you do a video on that
I'm leaning towards the trick flow 240s instead of the rpm heads. I'm going to run them with a. 509 purple shaft cam and torker 2 intake because the rpm dual plane won't fit under my hood. Hoping for at least 550hp with the old school cam, intake and 1 3/4 " headers.
Good stuff Joe. I've had aluminum flakes fly across the room whilst using a blow gun to make sure the out of the box assembled ready to bolt on head was clean.
Another excellent video Joe! Great information, thanks for sharing.
Kevin
Thanks, Kevin!
Dang Joe! You truly are a wealth of knowledge, information, guidance, and inspiration!
You’re too kind, Big Mike!
Never have run aluminium heads yet but they are on my list on my next build thanks for the information always appreciated
Thanks, Ray!
A lot of good info, another great video!
Thanks, Tim!
I'm old school I like my cast iron
Good for a reason
I'll tell ya what , I like the way ya go threw every thing & explain it out , your one Heck of teacher Mopar Joe ,,,,, awesome video buddy 👍 👍 👍 👍
I appreciate that! I figured if I had to do it anyway, I could try to explain my process
You're always giving us great information and I for one appreciate it. You're right about those angled plugs vs straight plugs, always inform the person when ordering your headers. Again I always use the washers on the heads, it spreads the clamping force a little wider 😊
Absolutely! Thanks brother
Great vidio!!!
Great video, only thing I would say is, with those head gaskets, make sure the rivets aren't getting pinched between the head and block. On an aftermarket block SBF build for example, sometimes you have to drill the rivets out because that's what happens.
Also, the head gasket should be a minimum of .030 bigger than the bore. I know you said the gaskets were 4.38, I'm assuming the bore is 4.35, which would be fine.
Thanks brother
The msd billet dizzy (and other tall shaft body models) will tend to clash on the corners of cast and machined valve covers, stock stamped clear easily. You can send those MP valve covers my way! I won't tell nobody :)
Haha! I happened to just buy two extra sets, but they’re accounted for 😂
My TTI headers hit the head bolts on my RPM heads. Had to clearance the flange a little. 440 on the drivers side.
Yea sir. Easier to do ahead of time, if you already know
Great tips Joe! One thing I noticed on the bore scope portion of the video was the vertical rib seemed to have gouges or casting flash. Is it just an optical illusion due to the focal point of the camera lens or is that something you would 'clean up' to smooth out the flow?
Thanks, Mike! I’ll check it with my real borescope and see how it looks with the gaskets in place
Yout info is very helpful and interesting I see the wanted poster in the background your on the run brother hood lol
Haha! Collected my own bounty
Great , now I'm thinking back when I just slapped mine on and hit the bolts with a few uga dugas 😂 Seriously though good tip about the pushrods, we ran into that with the nacho with 1.6 rocker conversion
Thanks Hippie brother
Outstanding job Joe.
Good explanation on alot of relevant subjects.👍
Cannot assume, have to check.
Have a great week.
Thanks, Ed! You know where I picked up some of those at!
Love ur passion Joe, enjoy
Thanks brother
Good stuff thanks Joe.
Thanks brother
Fire that monster up !
Few steps away! Lol
That engine looks good
Thanks Nathan!
Could you not drill and ream that oil opening larger your self on the head ?
I would be scared to do so, without the proper equipment. It’s not really a bad thing, for higher performance engines. We are using cam that has a full groove around that cam bearing, with the holes. It will get plenty of oil.
Some good stuff there joe, don't think I could afford such luxuries. Keep up the good info.
Thanks, Jeff! It even applies to 440 sources.
Another weird thing about head gaskets is some are labeled say, 4.500" bore. But that is the size of the actual hole. Then another brand is labeled 4.500" bore but the actual size is larger for a 4.500" cylinder. You always have to check the real size. Good tips as always.
Thanks for sharing!
Another great video Joe!. Well done!
Thanks, Chris! Mopar to the front
I likes me some piece of mind with the double check. Good information and a great reminder!
You and me both!
Great info !! Never had aluminum heads. Figured when it’s time, I’d check around with all the Mopar guys out here. Lots of info on this one Joe. Thx 👍
Thanks brother! Looking forward to nnn 24’
I have the Trick Flow’s on my 5.9, they are definitely worth every penny! Trying to catch up on videos!
Thanks Andy! Happy New Year!
Don’t forget to check oil return holes in heads being partially blocked by the deck surface of the block. I usually put a light chamfer on the block.
Nice one!
Hey Joe,wondering if all that applies to the 440 source heads on a 383 that is stock bottom end and valve train😮
Absolutely! Piston to valve will probably be massive
A lot of us weekend mechanics, wouldn't think of checking all those small things, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Thanks, Donald’
I love 440s I have one for my 85 dodge shortbox pickup that I would love to build.
That’d be slick!
@JustMoparJoe would be awesome, I think.
Nice little class on how to install your own heads.
If your worried about the dowel pin and the contact between the deck and the head you can use blueing,
Excellent tip! Thank you!
Your videos and comments are always great when you're talking about aluminum heads and your roller cams You never mentioned a distributor gear if you're running a bronze one or a standard 1. Just wondering if you do a video on that
Thank you. Here’s the gear we have for this. www.manciniracing.com/hughesadd3.html
I won’t ever use manly bolt again after the heads popping off them in my 499
I understand that feeling! Thanks brother
Great video love how you mock it up to make sure you have clearance and all the bolt holes line up good
Thanks 👍You never know!
Definitely starting to look like an engine👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks brother!
Details matter. Great video.
Thanks chicken 🐔
great info cant wait for dyno day
You and me both! Thanks brother
Great stuff Joe!
Thanks, Cley!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇦🇺
Thanks for the support!
I'm leaning towards the trick flow 240s instead of the rpm heads. I'm going to run them with a. 509 purple shaft cam and torker 2 intake because the rpm dual plane won't fit under my hood. Hoping for at least 550hp with the old school cam, intake and 1 3/4 " headers.
We have the torker 2 for this one, just for the hood clearance. They are nice manifolds, regardless. But the trick flows are legit
Good stuff Joe. I've had aluminum flakes fly across the room whilst using a blow gun to make sure the out of the box assembled ready to bolt on head was clean.
Wow! Sounds like my e street heads when I got them
Well done Joe!!
Thanks brother