Just a little hint: you can put black tape inside of your K3. At least around the footage counter so you don't have to tape it on the outside. Actually, you don't have to tape it on the outside either. Never did it on mine and won't ever. It's just an urban legend perpetuated by people who don't know how to load their film properly..
@@Zenen_Saneshige I should mention that the K3 cover shouldn't wobble when it's closed. If it wobbles, remove it and bend it back into shape so that it closes firmly.
This is the first video I find that gives me the info I have been looking for and I will likely take your suggestion onto my first film project. I appreciate it!
That actually doesn’t seem that bad. Granted there would be many retakes presumably so the cost would be more. 16mm seems like a great middle ground compared to shooting on 35mm or 8mm
This was so good, made it way less intimidating. I’d like to see a follow up about how lighting and exposure and the editing process is different. You made me so curious. If not one has ever made the leap to make video, is this place too hard to start?
These days, it seems like Bolex is cheaper. I bought a Krasnogorsk 3 for like $600 overall. I've since seen bolex cameras going for $300-$500. Then again, my K-3 did come with the meteor lens.
The cheapest is always inheritance. I inherited a Double 8mm Bolex B8L with all accessories in cosmetically excellent condition. It’s worth asking around with relatives if they have anything.
damn i shoot super 8 sometimes and appreciate the advice about taping after loading, my last roll had a lot of burns so im gonna try that out and see if i can get a better result :D
The K3 now days is goin close to canon money :) A better option I found to be kiev 16U (e) they will come with 3 lenses, its made in electric version 16UE 6-8volts one can adapt modern flat cells, or the mechanical 16U. The camera it's not a looker, and you must find one before the dude sold the lenses to video guys :D Be realistic. if you choose to import, look at Japanese sites too, don't get F by scalpers. (use google translate and look at what they cost on russian sites. mint cameras usually go for less the 200€ )
Problem is the difference between being able to film hours and hours of footage on one card versus having to pay over $100 per 2.5 minutes of celluloid + development
@@LordJagd well...... that's super 8 prices . on 16 is somewhat cheaper if you buy 400ft reels from ebay. (they usually go for ~100usd) nobody shoots film because it's cheap. all of it is F expensive. specially when you start.
Dope brah, definitely wanna to get me a 16mm, I already got a super 8 but I wanna upgrade. I just hope this video ain’t gonna make the price of these cameras go up once more people see it lol great vid though.
ive found that scanning your stuff in 2.5k works great as long as your not trying to do crazy cropping on your footage. if your wanting to crop, go for a 4k scan but i will warn you, the file size you get back from the lab is huge.
I loove the looks of Super 16mm, but for me as a hobby filmmaker, it seems soo expensive 😂 before I knew the costs of the development of 16mm film I almost bought an old arri camera😅😂
Yooo great video man thank you for posting, Quick Question! Say I wanted to shoot multiple rolls to be sent to development all at once. Once I finish Roll 1, the film is then on the take up spool that comes with the camera. For every roll after that, I need to get another take up spool, right? I was hoping I could use the spool that Roll 1 originally came on as a take up spool for Roll 2, but I noticed it doesn’t have any hooks for Roll 2 to latch onto if I loaded it and fed it thru. Hope this makes sense! I finished shooting my first roll and went to load the 2nd roll and I’m like … wait a minute 🤨 what do I do haha
Overexposing one stop is when you intentionally let more light into whatever you are shooting. Let’s say whatever you are shooting calls for example your aperture to be f8 for 1/125 at 400 iso to be properly exposed. Overexposing by one stop would mean you shoot at f5.6 instead, allowing more light in and giving you more room to work with in post. It’s easier to play with light than to play with shadows.
Just a little hint: you can put black tape inside of your K3. At least around the footage counter so you don't have to tape it on the outside. Actually, you don't have to tape it on the outside either. Never did it on mine and won't ever. It's just an urban legend perpetuated by people who don't know how to load their film properly..
Ahh! Thanks for this. Gonna not tape my next roll and see if everything will be good. I never not taped it before so glad to hear this
@@Zenen_Saneshige I should mention that the K3 cover shouldn't wobble when it's closed. If it wobbles, remove it and bend it back into shape so that it closes firmly.
Keystone is the cheapest. Just no reflex viewing. But there are parallax compensation tricks that can be used for close up shots.
This is the first video I find that gives me the info I have been looking for and I will likely take your suggestion onto my first film project. I appreciate it!
So about $4000 for a feature film for development
Unfortunately
That actually doesn’t seem that bad. Granted there would be many retakes presumably so the cost would be more. 16mm seems like a great middle ground compared to shooting on 35mm or 8mm
@@sneakingelephant Especially if you consider the cost of renting cinema cameras.
This was so good, made it way less intimidating. I’d like to see a follow up about how lighting and exposure and the editing process is different. You made me so curious. If not one has ever made the leap to make video, is this place too hard to start?
These days, it seems like Bolex is cheaper. I bought a Krasnogorsk 3 for like $600 overall. I've since seen bolex cameras going for $300-$500. Then again, my K-3
did come with the meteor lens.
good observation! haven't actually looked at bolex prices in the last year so might see if i can snag one for less than my k3
The cheapest is always inheritance. I inherited a Double 8mm Bolex B8L with all accessories in cosmetically excellent condition.
It’s worth asking around with relatives if they have anything.
Hey thank you for the advice I really appreciate it
damn i shoot super 8 sometimes and appreciate the advice about taping after loading, my last roll had a lot of burns so im gonna try that out and see if i can get a better result :D
Good luck!!
I have ZERO idea what I’m doing so far, but I’m going to try and make some dope stuff soon.
the zen master
Great video fam editing and just overall filmmaking ability is apparent. This helped out a lot!
Glad I could help, thank you 🫶
The K3 now days is goin close to canon money :)
A better option I found to be kiev 16U (e) they will come with 3 lenses, its made in electric version 16UE 6-8volts one can adapt modern flat cells, or the mechanical 16U.
The camera it's not a looker, and you must find one before the dude sold the lenses to video guys :D
Be realistic. if you choose to import, look at Japanese sites too, don't get F by scalpers.
(use google translate and look at what they cost on russian sites. mint cameras usually go for less the 200€ )
* that test camera is not really teste it has (maybe) a dead roll put into it. and that's that.
Informational, thank you
Problem is the difference between being able to film hours and hours of footage on one card versus having to pay over $100 per 2.5 minutes of celluloid + development
@@LordJagd well...... that's super 8 prices .
on 16 is somewhat cheaper if you buy 400ft reels from ebay. (they usually go for ~100usd)
nobody shoots film because it's cheap. all of it is F expensive. specially when you start.
this video is amazing
Thank you soooooooooi much for this video
Dope brah, definitely wanna to get me a 16mm, I already got a super 8 but I wanna upgrade. I just hope this video ain’t gonna make the price of these cameras go up once more people see it lol great vid though.
Could you please go into more detail about deciding what definition to scan your footage in?
ive found that scanning your stuff in 2.5k works great as long as your not trying to do crazy cropping on your footage. if your wanting to crop, go for a 4k scan but i will warn you, the file size you get back from the lab is huge.
Do you get the film back? And if not, how and why?
Tank you for this video ! From Brazil
Glad to help!
Can’t you cut the film yourself then send it ?
I loove the looks of Super 16mm, but for me as a hobby filmmaker, it seems soo expensive 😂 before I knew the costs of the development of 16mm film I almost bought an old arri camera😅😂
Yooo great video man thank you for posting, Quick Question!
Say I wanted to shoot multiple rolls to be sent to development all at once.
Once I finish Roll 1, the film is then on the take up spool that comes with the camera.
For every roll after that, I need to get another take up spool, right?
I was hoping I could use the spool that Roll 1 originally came on as a take up spool for Roll 2, but I noticed it doesn’t have any hooks for Roll 2 to latch onto if I loaded it and fed it thru.
Hope this makes sense! I finished shooting my first roll and went to load the 2nd roll and I’m like … wait a minute 🤨 what do I do haha
man these K3 prices are insane. I got mine in 2019 for $250 with all the accessories.
Same, I paid like 300$ with every accesory and plenty of filters for the Meteor
Никогда бы не подумал, что советская камера так ценится
what about 200t? lol heavily underrated
Hey there I was wondering if this records audio as well?
you would need a separate recording device because film only captures the images
Krasnogorsk-3 for $500?!?! Wow, the price in Russia and abroad is so different. Here I can buy it in good condition for $56….
On ebay or locally in a shop?
Do they send you back your developed film stock?
@@ragtimejohn yes! shipped back usually within a week of me getting my scans
Boy film sure looks..........
Like film.
What do you mean by overexposing by one stop? @5:49 ?
Overexposing one stop is when you intentionally let more light into whatever you are shooting. Let’s say whatever you are shooting calls for example your aperture to be f8 for 1/125 at 400 iso to be properly exposed. Overexposing by one stop would mean you shoot at f5.6 instead, allowing more light in and giving you more room to work with in post. It’s easier to play with light than to play with shadows.
@@huyhuynh9073 thank you!!!
At 5:36, what does the top knob do?
Shutter speed!
And u keep it at double the frame rate?
howdy, what do you shoot on??