the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
I've been looking for the best way to make wall cabinets for days now. This video is really helpful to me. I've been wood working for about 40 years and made a lot of free standing cabinets and shop cabinets, but not kitchen wall cabinets. The video answered several questions I had. Nice job. Now I'll use these methods to build my new kitchen cabinets our of African Mahogany. 👌👍
I absolutely love this channel! I'm a welder by profession...but recently I've been trying to get into wood working and building a wood working shop in my basement. 1st I will try and build cabinets for my garage and if that turns out really good I will try my hand at building cabinets for my kitchen. Love this channel
Great beginner video. For those of us who are making cabinets for the first time, a small graphic in the corner of the cabinet with the piece you’re currently making highlighted in the larger assembly would really help orient me.
Great idea but this video isn't meant to be that detailed! Fortunately I created a complete set of plans to build these cabinets with all the 3D drawings to help orient you!
This was nice and concise. I enjoy the lack of fluff/filler. I was thinking of doing pocket holes and adding some dowel along the joints as well for some extra support. I’m using 3/4in aspen plywood for the whole thing(that’s all I have). This is just a garage cabinet. I’m hanging it using a top and bottom French cleat system. What is a good way to get some extra support when attaching the French cleat mounting pieces? I was think of ripping some 2x4 into 1in strips and putting them flush with the back edge of the cabinet so that the back panel will mount on as it should. I think that should do it, no? It take up a small amount of the interior space of the cabinet, but as I mentioned, this just a shop cabinet.
I used this exact method of building my cabinets for laundry room using the traditional style. Two issues i had were the undersized bit was still bigger than the plywood making a sloppy dado. I ended up having to make two passes with an 1/8" but and sneak up on it. The other thing i did different was cut a 45 degree edge on my top back nailer. I then was able to hang the cabinet on the wall with another 45 degree piece i screwed into the wall. A french cleat. This made hanging the cabinets super easy with no ledger board required and no wall patching
Excellent video!!! When the weather warms up here in Central NY i need to make some wall cabinets for our pantry/laundry room. I will be making flat panel doors like you did for the new cabinets as well as new doors for the existing cabinets in the pantry and kitchen. Ive been watching how to videos on cabinet building and yours is definitely one of the best.
Thanks for pairing your mastery of carpentry with such high level production value. Makes a massive impact when you're able to both show and describe the details so well! Major noob question for you - what do you typically ballpark the cost of a cabinet to be in your head when you're estimating the cost of the wood & hardware?
Matt two questions for you, 1) you use the paste wax just to put on screws to help them drive into the wood? And 2) what filler/putty do you recommend for filling in the holes from the brad nails I used to secure the face frame to the cabinet?
The one thing I never see a video on : How to measure: 1. How much lip on face frame 2. Where to source quality cabinet wood 3. How to measure offsets for hinges with respect to door width 4. How to measure door and drawer heights to creat 1/8” gaps 5. How to easily measure for equal drawer heights Fantastic video. I understand the need for exacting content, but maybe make some smaller videos (tips) to address the little in between info
I think it's because you missed it...I had to rewatch a lot of his videos over but he either says it or shows it...sometimes its fast if you blink you will miss it Idk about sourcing wood but sure anyone wouldn't have an issue with this
This wonderful video is about 3 days too late. ;) I bought wall cabinets for my shop at HD and put them up on Saturday. I would have much preferred making my own. But thanks for the great video.
Superb video! So helpful. To each their own with choice of wood but what do you recommend for building cabinets like you show in the video? Baltic Birch, Maple, etc.? I want to build identical cabinets for my laundry room that will last for years and years. Also, at what point in the build process should one prime and paint (or stain) the cabinets to make it easy on one's self? Does it matter?
Nice video. I like your use of traditional joinery. Demonstrating the alternative, pocket holes, is a nice touch, helping to provide perspective to inexperienced woodworkers. Q: how deep are these cabinets? I have read that upper cabinets are usually one or two feet deep. I need to build a saw till and a plane till, and neither needs to be more than a foot deep. To protect the tools from humidity and dust, I was thinking of using cabinets like these, rather than a traditional open style till. I was thinking of building a couple more cabinets for storage, and consistent appearance would be nice as well. Any thoughts or suggestions would be most appreciated.
Standard wall cabinets are 12" deep, though 15" has become significantly more common due to the current age of larger dishware. Keep in mind, standardized measurements for cabinets are taken from the front of the cabinet face frame (not the door) to the rear back of the cabinet. Once you take out the 3/4" face frame and then 3/4"-1" for the rear panel and hangars (depending on if you use 3/4" or 1/2" blocks), you end up with 1 1/2"-1 3/4" less usable space. The decision is ultimately up to the end user on the depth that they would prefer, but the deeper the wall cabinet, the less counter space that will be visible when standing at the counter (or workbench). Many people in show cabinets will go deeper than 15" due to the higher need for storage and sometimes higher mounting height from the base cabinet or workbench.
Your production of your videos are amazing hoping to get that good .Only tip use full 3/4backs saves time and money ,that's a lot of steps for the back also the back is the spine of the cabinet needs that 3/4 strength..
Great video! Question - if you were doing a more modern cabinet door that was completely flat, could you simply use a piece of plywood with edge banding around it? Or is it better to use actual wood joined together? Thanks!
It's a really interesting and unique tool. Super clean pockets and easy to assemble with them. And it can speed up your process if you make lots of repeated pockets
for simple pocket screw assembly. you can move top and bottom in 3/4" and end up with same void area for screws or lighting. i like the dados myself. feels and looks stronger to me.
I see you are using pre-finished maple plywood which makes everything much easier. However, are you not putting any finish on the face frames or doors?
Is 3-quarter plywood necessary for upper wall cabinets or could you use half-inch plywood instead? The reason I ask is that on my high-end kitchen cabinets, the carcass seems to be half-inch plywood. I would appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks for a really informative video.
awesome cabinets! do you just screw into the studs through the 1/4 ply and nailer strips (for the traditional) and 1/2 ply backer for the basic/shop style?
I’ve watched your cabinet videos countless times, did you ever go over how you plan out your builds? Sketch up? Draft on paper? Experience and just in your head?
@@MWAWoodworks @nmancini I work with an interior designer and we use Vectorworks with a cabinet pack. Spits out all the cuts and dims. If you need something done I can help.
Great videos and I actually bought your plans. My question that I can't figure out:At 12:23, you can see a larger gap between doors of.the two cabinets (the right-most two). Is there any way to make this gap smaller and consistent across the entire set of doors in a bank of cabinets? I can't figure out the right stile width, hinge overlay, hinge type, etc. to make it happen!
Really like the practical tips. Question - at 7:29 of this video it shows a cross cut slide that looks and uses materials completely different from your plans. I purchased the Whole Enchilada and was disappointed that it did not include the aluminum extrusion. Please advise. Thank you.
Great video Matt. I was curious when you built the cabinet doors to size and then shaved the top and bottom to clean them up on the cross-cut sled. Question - did you account for that when you cut your rail and stile before assembly or was the "shaving" so negligible that you didn't account for it? I've struggled on occasion to have my end joints crisp and clean after assembly and this was a great option. Just wasn't sure if I needed to account for any additional math before I commit this to my next build. Thanks for sharing ....
Did you use a quarter inch (real quarter inch) plywood for the door panels? I asked because most of the quarter inch plywood are not really quarter inch, so when I use my shaker door router bits to cut the grooves, the quarter inch panels are too loose to fit on the rails and stiles. What do you recommend? Thanks for posting your videos and more power to your channel!
@@MWAWoodworks is there a reason why you used 1/2 inch plywood with rabbets instead of 1/4 inch plywood for the door panels? It just seems like unnecessary added weight and added steps to cut the rabbets unless I'm missing a technical reason.
Matt for the nailer strips could you make them french cleats and attach them to a cleat rather than just nailing them to the wall studs? I was thinking about that and did not know if that would actually work. Figured I would ask you and see what you thought on that possible option for hanging them.
Your cabinets are stunning...thanks. Interested to know the plywood you use. It appears to a newbie like me that its coated with something, though not phenolic?
If you're building a 36 inch wide wall cabinet or wider, and are adding adjustable shelving.. Do you do anything different to the shelves or add more support? Add another shelf pin to the center style?
Changing the blade on my table saw is a real pain (how I wish I had a US style saw). So, instead of changing blades, I lower the blade until it is just 1 or 1.5mm showing and run the plywood through on both sides. Effectively, using it as a scoring blades. On good quality plywood, it works very well
Question regarding the hinges. You don’t have a link to hinges, or for that matter drawer slides on your base cabinets. Any reason? Also what overlay hinge did you use, Blum makes over a dozen. Thank you. Enjoy the channel.
Nice work. Why not use 1/4" for the door inserts? Would they be too flimsy or maybe 1/4" isn't available in a nice finish? I was thinking 1/4" would save a few bucks?
Matt, vou fazer como muitos... não tem como não ser. O trabalho é maravilhoso. Sou brasileiro, não sei se é bom ou ruim. Temos um material parecido aqui chamado compensado marinho, qual material você usou porque tem um tratamento selador e o que temos aqui não brilha como o seu. Além da minha assinatura, tem o meu...
Great video. What is your width of your face frame parts? Are they all the same? Do you change it depending on which style of cabinet you built? Thanks
2 1/2" stiles and 2" rails for 3/4" thick cabinets. Leaves a half inch reveal behind hinges when 2 boxes are connected. And 1 inch reveal underneath with a 1/4 inch bottom shelf reveal. 2 1/2" can be used at the top for crown.
What size plywood did you use underneath to set the length when you installed the cabinets doors and what where the lengths of the cuts for dado for the sides and back for the first set of cabinets
Great video, how do you handle scribing to the wall with nailers? I just had a wall cabinet install the wall was wavy I didn't notice till the install. fishing for how to build cabinets that can be scribed on site.
Matt or anyone, so I bought the Whiteside Undersized Router Bits. However when I cut my DADOs yesterday, I went to try to fit my 1/4 and 3/4 birch plywood in the grooves and they would not fit. I tried my test nailer piece (piece I used to test the groove depth, etc) and it fit in like a glove. But my actual pieces for the cabinet itself would not fit. I tried to gentle tap it but it started to crack and push/peel up the vneer. Is there a reason for this? What is the best way to get it to fit? Only thing I could think was try a pass on the table saw to trim off like 1/64. But still dont understand why some other pieces of plywood fit and the actual cabinet pieces dont.
@@MWAWoodworks Really, I would not have thought that. I figured if it was all from the same stock it should be the same. But that makes sense. Thanks I have to work on making it fit, and to think I thought this would be the easy part LOL
Question - if you plan to spray the cabinets - will the decorative panel in the door move around as it is floating in the grooves and expose the unpainted edges as it moves? Should I glue the panel in place to ensure it does not move?
Gluing the panel in place could cause issues with wood movement due to humidity changes, especially in a workshop cabinet. I would suggest painting the panel before putting it together so that there is no unpainted area around the edges. Then you don't have to worry if the panel moves slightly.
I want to build cabinets that will fill a wall approximately 12' wide so I'm thinking of making 3 - 4ft wide x 8ft high. Any thoughts on how to best approach this. It does not need to be fancy. Thanks, Joe
For the door hinges, I would need to just get full overlay face frame hinges? I bought the project plans but it did not mention what type of hinges were used (that is unless I am blind and missed it).
Question: why do you need to fasten the nailers to the back panel with brad nails? I'm new at this, but I just want to see if it is a necessary step. Wouldn't you want to fasten them from the back?
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Fast Setting Wood Glue - amzn.to/3RHbuHC
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the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
I've been looking for the best way to make wall cabinets for days now. This video is really helpful to me. I've been wood working for about 40 years and made a lot of free standing cabinets and shop cabinets, but not kitchen wall cabinets. The video answered several questions I had. Nice job. Now I'll use these methods to build my new kitchen cabinets our of African Mahogany. 👌👍
Just use pocket screws.....lots of them. 6:51
I absolutely love this channel! I'm a welder by profession...but recently I've been trying to get into wood working and building a wood working shop in my basement. 1st I will try and build cabinets for my garage and if that turns out really good I will try my hand at building cabinets for my kitchen.
Love this channel
Thanks for your support!
Great beginner video. For those of us who are making cabinets for the first time, a small graphic in the corner of the cabinet with the piece you’re currently making highlighted in the larger assembly would really help orient me.
Great idea but this video isn't meant to be that detailed! Fortunately I created a complete set of plans to build these cabinets with all the 3D drawings to help orient you!
This was nice and concise. I enjoy the lack of fluff/filler. I was thinking of doing pocket holes and adding some dowel along the joints as well for some extra support. I’m using 3/4in aspen plywood for the whole thing(that’s all I have). This is just a garage cabinet. I’m hanging it using a top and bottom French cleat system.
What is a good way to get some extra support when attaching the French cleat mounting pieces? I was think of ripping some 2x4 into 1in strips and putting them flush with the back edge of the cabinet so that the back panel will mount on as it should. I think that should do it, no? It take up a small amount of the interior space of the cabinet, but as I mentioned, this just a shop cabinet.
I used this exact method of building my cabinets for laundry room using the traditional style. Two issues i had were the undersized bit was still bigger than the plywood making a sloppy dado. I ended up having to make two passes with an 1/8" but and sneak up on it.
The other thing i did different was cut a 45 degree edge on my top back nailer. I then was able to hang the cabinet on the wall with another 45 degree piece i screwed into the wall. A french cleat. This made hanging the cabinets super easy with no ledger board required and no wall patching
❤️
Excellent video!!! When the weather warms up here in Central NY i need to make some wall cabinets for our pantry/laundry room. I will be making flat panel doors like you did for the new cabinets as well as new doors for the existing cabinets in the pantry and kitchen.
Ive been watching how to videos on cabinet building and yours is definitely one of the best.
Thanks for pairing your mastery of carpentry with such high level production value. Makes a massive impact when you're able to both show and describe the details so well!
Major noob question for you - what do you typically ballpark the cost of a cabinet to be in your head when you're estimating the cost of the wood & hardware?
Matt two questions for you, 1) you use the paste wax just to put on screws to help them drive into the wood? And 2) what filler/putty do you recommend for filling in the holes from the brad nails I used to secure the face frame to the cabinet?
1)Yes 2)I don't have a preferred wood filler, just whatever the big box carries
Great video thanks. How do you install the cabinets on the wall?
The one thing I never see a video on :
How to measure:
1. How much lip on face frame
2. Where to source quality cabinet wood
3. How to measure offsets for hinges with respect to door width
4. How to measure door and drawer heights to creat 1/8” gaps
5. How to easily measure for equal drawer heights
Fantastic video. I understand the need for exacting content, but maybe make some smaller videos (tips) to address the little in between info
I think it's because you missed it...I had to rewatch a lot of his videos over but he either says it or shows it...sometimes its fast if you blink you will miss it
Idk about sourcing wood but sure anyone wouldn't have an issue with this
I agree. He should cover these points on more videos.
Where do you get that plywood with that nice coated satin finish?
Glad to see your channel is growing. You’re definitely one of the best woodworking channels out there.
This wonderful video is about 3 days too late. ;) I bought wall cabinets for my shop at HD and put them up on Saturday. I would have much preferred making my own. But thanks for the great video.
This is an EXCELLENT reference video! Thanks, Matt!
Superb video! So helpful. To each their own with choice of wood but what do you recommend for building cabinets like you show in the video? Baltic Birch, Maple, etc.? I want to build identical cabinets for my laundry room that will last for years and years. Also, at what point in the build process should one prime and paint (or stain) the cabinets to make it easy on one's self? Does it matter?
Nice video. I like your use of traditional joinery. Demonstrating the alternative, pocket holes, is a nice touch, helping to provide perspective to inexperienced woodworkers. Q: how deep are these cabinets? I have read that upper cabinets are usually one or two feet deep. I need to build a saw till and a plane till, and neither needs to be more than a foot deep. To protect the tools from humidity and dust, I was thinking of using cabinets like these, rather than a traditional open style till. I was thinking of building a couple more cabinets for storage, and consistent appearance would be nice as well. Any thoughts or suggestions would be most appreciated.
Standard wall cabinets are 12" deep, though 15" has become significantly more common due to the current age of larger dishware. Keep in mind, standardized measurements for cabinets are taken from the front of the cabinet face frame (not the door) to the rear back of the cabinet. Once you take out the 3/4" face frame and then 3/4"-1" for the rear panel and hangars (depending on if you use 3/4" or 1/2" blocks), you end up with 1 1/2"-1 3/4" less usable space. The decision is ultimately up to the end user on the depth that they would prefer, but the deeper the wall cabinet, the less counter space that will be visible when standing at the counter (or workbench). Many people in show cabinets will go deeper than 15" due to the higher need for storage and sometimes higher mounting height from the base cabinet or workbench.
@@GReddy2319 Thanks!
Your production of your videos are amazing hoping to get that good .Only tip use full 3/4backs saves time and money ,that's a lot of steps for the back also the back is the spine of the cabinet needs that 3/4 strength..
Great video! Question - if you were doing a more modern cabinet door that was completely flat, could you simply use a piece of plywood with edge banding around it? Or is it better to use actual wood joined together? Thanks!
Yes most flat doors are edge banned plywood
Nice work, I build my wall cabinetry with 45-degree beveled back hang rails ( French cleats ) it makes it so much easier when it come to installing.
Ah yeah I fasten mine like kitchen cabinets
Glad to have your input on the castle machine. This is an investment I’ve been considering myself
It's a really interesting and unique tool. Super clean pockets and easy to assemble with them. And it can speed up your process if you make lots of repeated pockets
for simple pocket screw assembly. you can move top and bottom in 3/4" and end up with same void area for screws or lighting. i like the dados myself. feels and looks stronger to me.
Thats true but the pocket screws afford you to have an inch and a half more space inside the cabinet, which for shop cabinets is nice to have.
@MWAWoodworks true. So many options. Great video btw
Beautiful work, Matt! Really well done! 😃
Thanks a lot for all the tips!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks brother 😁
You make the best how to videos, thank you for the great information!
Thanks!
I'm jealous of your setup. Nicest shop I've ever seen
This was really impressive. Particularly, all your fancy tools. What a dream!
Thanks!
I see you are using pre-finished maple plywood which makes everything much easier. However, are you not putting any finish on the face frames or doors?
Excellent job.... What a nicely finished wood work.... Can you plz tell me about the glue that you used here??
Is 3-quarter plywood necessary for upper wall cabinets or could you use half-inch plywood instead? The reason I ask is that on my high-end kitchen cabinets, the carcass seems to be half-inch plywood. I would appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks for a really informative video.
Thank you for tutoring us. I was wondering can we make without those big tools? Just with wooden(panel) and drill.
Never tried that 🤷
awesome cabinets! do you just screw into the studs through the 1/4 ply and nailer strips (for the traditional) and 1/2 ply backer for the basic/shop style?
Wow very nice, just a quick question why does the face frame need to overhang?
Awesome. I shall follow it when I make my cabinets. Thank you kind Sir.
Awesome 😎 thanks Pat!
I’ve watched your cabinet videos countless times, did you ever go over how you plan out your builds? Sketch up? Draft on paper? Experience and just in your head?
I used to use SketchUp now I use fusion 360
@@MWAWoodworks @nmancini I work with an interior designer and we use Vectorworks with a cabinet pack. Spits out all the cuts and dims. If you need something done I can help.
Very impressive work. You make it look so easy!
Thanks for the kind words!
Great videos and I actually bought your plans. My question that I can't figure out:At 12:23, you can see a larger gap between doors of.the two cabinets (the right-most two). Is there any way to make this gap smaller and consistent across the entire set of doors in a bank of cabinets? I can't figure out the right stile width, hinge overlay, hinge type, etc. to make it happen!
Great video! maybe i missed it but what type of plywood are you using? is seems to be pre-finished?
Wow, this is just amazing. I have no idea how the hell you keep all of that in your head. Would be cool to hang out with you and make cabinets.
I learned so much in this video! Thank you!
Also, it’d be great if you could explain a bit more on where you find your materials. I am still buying from big box stores and it really is subpar
Really like the practical tips. Question - at 7:29 of this video it shows a cross cut slide that looks and uses materials completely different from your plans. I purchased the Whole Enchilada and was disappointed that it did not include the aluminum extrusion. Please advise. Thank you.
Awesome explanation, My favorite Wall cabinet video.
Great video Matt. I was curious when you built the cabinet doors to size and then shaved the top and bottom to clean them up on the cross-cut sled. Question - did you account for that when you cut your rail and stile before assembly or was the "shaving" so negligible that you didn't account for it? I've struggled on occasion to have my end joints crisp and clean after assembly and this was a great option. Just wasn't sure if I needed to account for any additional math before I commit this to my next build. Thanks for sharing ....
Yes I always leave 1/8" all around my doors. This allows me to fit them perfectly and also cut off any glue that squeezed out of the joints 👍
Did you use a quarter inch (real quarter inch) plywood for the door panels? I asked because most of the quarter inch plywood are not really quarter inch, so when I use my shaker door router bits to cut the grooves, the quarter inch panels are too loose to fit on the rails and stiles. What do you recommend? Thanks for posting your videos and more power to your channel!
I used 1/2" for the panels and cut a rabbet around all four sides to fit into the frame.
@@MWAWoodworks Thank you!
@@MWAWoodworks is there a reason why you used 1/2 inch plywood with rabbets instead of 1/4 inch plywood for the door panels? It just seems like unnecessary added weight and added steps to cut the rabbets unless I'm missing a technical reason.
Great clear video. Do you have plans using metric measurement?
Unfortunately I do not
Great build. Pretty good timing as well. I've gotta decide on cabinets for the shop and these look great. Thanks.
Simple, clean and can also look good in your home 👍
Really good timing. I literally have pre finished maple ply for the laundry room. Haha.
I love that stuff. So nice and convenient
Ha ha same here
Just great!! so easy and nice that i'm gonna make some for my little shop. Greetings from Puerto Vallarta, México
Thanks Abel! Glad I can inspire you to upgrade your shop organization!
I like how you use 1/2 panel with rabid for much sturdier door as opposed to using 1/4 panel.
Your information is beautiful and helpful I hope to be health and safety
Did you end up putting a finish on all the door frames or did you leave it raw wood?
Excellent woodwork ,Thanks for sharing . Happy Holidays Best wishes from India , Mumbai
Great Video....what do you use to finish your cabinets?
For these I didn't finish them. I used pre finished plywood that I purchased
Looks like I have a new tool added to my wish list. Castle pocket cutting machine. Be still my heart. 😂😂😂
Game changer!
Matt for the nailer strips could you make them french cleats and attach them to a cleat rather than just nailing them to the wall studs? I was thinking about that and did not know if that would actually work. Figured I would ask you and see what you thought on that possible option for hanging them.
For shop cabinets yeah you could do that
Looks great.
Minor issue in the UK is that ply that looks that good would require the sale of a kidney....:)
In the US, the price of that piece of plywood would also cost you a kidney. 🤣
Here in Australia, it will be a miracle to get plywood that good and also close to $300 a sheet. Even then it will take more than a kidney to buy one.
Great video MWA I really like the miter saw station do you have plans for sale?
Soon! Working on plans now
Not for a regular home owner, them tools tough👍
Your cabinets are stunning...thanks. Interested to know the plywood you use. It appears to a newbie like me that its coated with something, though not phenolic?
It's pre finished ply
What you guys do for kitchen cabinets shelf’s what banding?
Great work how long did it take to build them
Great job Matt,any issues with the fast cap double sided trimmer? It always seems to dig into the plywood on me? Tnx for instruction.
Great work.
Good job and great video. You make it look easy.
Thanks.
If you're building a 36 inch wide wall cabinet or wider, and are adding adjustable shelving.. Do you do anything different to the shelves or add more support? Add another shelf pin to the center style?
Great build what’s the name of pocket machine I’m interested on buying one
It's a Castle TSM 12
Great videos! Thanks for sharing. What kind of table saw blades do you use to avoid splintering plywood?
80 tooth fine trim blades made for plywood
Changing the blade on my table saw is a real pain (how I wish I had a US style saw). So, instead of changing blades, I lower the blade until it is just 1 or 1.5mm showing and run the plywood through on both sides. Effectively, using it as a scoring blades. On good quality plywood, it works very well
What kind of jig do you use to drill the holes for the shelf hangers?
You’re an awesome Carpinter"……love your videos
Question regarding the hinges. You don’t have a link to hinges, or for that matter drawer slides on your base cabinets. Any reason? Also what overlay hinge did you use, Blum makes over a dozen. Thank you. Enjoy the channel.
How do you hang them. I'm always worried they will be too heavy. But I'm super new to this so looking for your advice.
I have a video on that. Well, on concrete but stud walls are even easier
Nice work. Why not use 1/4" for the door inserts? Would they be too flimsy or maybe 1/4" isn't available in a nice finish? I was thinking 1/4" would save a few bucks?
You can do that for sure. But for shop cabinets I want to be able to hang things on the inside of the door 👍
Piece of cake. Thank you.
Upper cabinets are really pretty simple. You just have to see the process to get it 👍🙌
Any tips on measuring for door widths with that jig? Is there a particular distance from the edge of the cabinet the doors need to sit?
Half inch or 3/4 overlay.
Well made. Amazing craftsmanship. Thanks for sharing your work with us 🙏🏼
Do you have a total cost of lumber? Great video
If I were building these for my kitchen, how do you scribe them to the wall? Especially on the ends that are seen.
thank u for shearing very goos information.
Matt, vou fazer como muitos... não tem como não ser. O trabalho é maravilhoso.
Sou brasileiro, não sei se é bom ou ruim. Temos um material parecido aqui chamado compensado marinho, qual material você usou porque tem um tratamento selador e o que temos aqui não brilha como o seu.
Além da minha assinatura, tem o meu...
Great video. What is your width of your face frame parts? Are they all the same? Do you change it depending on which style of cabinet you built? Thanks
2 1/2" stiles and 2" rails for 3/4" thick cabinets. Leaves a half inch reveal behind hinges when 2 boxes are connected. And 1 inch reveal underneath with a 1/4 inch bottom shelf reveal. 2 1/2" can be used at the top for crown.
Do you have a slight overhang on the left and right sides? Are there any pros and cons to making the carcass the same width as the face frame?
When you install cabinets there are small gaps between each. This gap is taken up by the face frame overhang
What size plywood did you use underneath to set the length when you installed the cabinets doors and what where the lengths of the cuts for dado for the sides and back for the first set of cabinets
Great video, how do you handle scribing to the wall with nailers? I just had a wall cabinet install the wall was wavy I didn't notice till the install. fishing for how to build cabinets that can be scribed on site.
Leave an eight or so behind the nailer. And shim between the studs to hold the gap from closing.
There is nothing wrong with 3/16" x 3/4" scribe moulding attached with 23gauge pin nailer. It bends to fit tightly to the wall and hides the gaps
great video! thank! wanted to buy some staff from amazon, but none of the links works... ):
Links are working fine 👍
Matt or anyone, so I bought the Whiteside Undersized Router Bits. However when I cut my DADOs yesterday, I went to try to fit my 1/4 and 3/4 birch plywood in the grooves and they would not fit. I tried my test nailer piece (piece I used to test the groove depth, etc) and it fit in like a glove. But my actual pieces for the cabinet itself would not fit. I tried to gentle tap it but it started to crack and push/peel up the vneer. Is there a reason for this? What is the best way to get it to fit? Only thing I could think was try a pass on the table saw to trim off like 1/64. But still dont understand why some other pieces of plywood fit and the actual cabinet pieces dont.
Sometimes plywood will have varying thickness. This can even happen with different parts of the same sheet of plywood.
@@MWAWoodworks Really, I would not have thought that. I figured if it was all from the same stock it should be the same. But that makes sense. Thanks I have to work on making it fit, and to think I thought this would be the easy part LOL
Question - if you plan to spray the cabinets - will the decorative panel in the door move around as it is floating in the grooves and expose the unpainted edges as it moves? Should I glue the panel in place to ensure it does not move?
Gluing the panel in place could cause issues with wood movement due to humidity changes, especially in a workshop cabinet. I would suggest painting the panel before putting it together so that there is no unpainted area around the edges. Then you don't have to worry if the panel moves slightly.
Nice video. Do you ever get bad results with the Fast Cap trimmer? I find grain direction on the edge banding can sometimes give very bad tears
Yeah that's true no matter what. But I used the pre finished edge banding which tends to help with tearoutt
Do you build custom sizes for people that you could ship out?
Hey man! What kind of table saw you have?
Sawstop PCS 3hp
The width measurent for the top and bottom pieces is off on the large side if the back panel is supposed to slide behind them.
Well done!
👍
I want to build cabinets that will fill a wall approximately 12' wide so I'm thinking of making 3 - 4ft wide x 8ft high. Any thoughts on how to best approach this. It does not need to be fancy. Thanks, Joe
What are those big clamps you used for clamping the big pieces?
Great work and video👍
Do you have plans we can get on the wall and base cabinets
Yes! Check the links in the description
Great Video Matt , you also offer wood work Training
Slick and quick!
That needs to be on a t-shirt 🤣🤣
For the door hinges, I would need to just get full overlay face frame hinges? I bought the project plans but it did not mention what type of hinges were used (that is unless I am blind and missed it).
I used 3/4 overlay Blum hinges
Hey can you also make a video on how to hang heavy wall cabinets to a concrete wall?
Question: why do you need to fasten the nailers to the back panel with brad nails? I'm new at this, but I just want to see if it is a necessary step. Wouldn't you want to fasten them from the back?
You can glue them if you wish it use screws. The brad nailer is just what I use it's quick and easy and sufficient
Thanks. Would it make a difference if I used the nailer from the back so it doesn't show in the cabinet?@@MWAWoodworks
Nah I wouldn't work from the back side because the back panel is only 1/4". You won't ever see the brad nails though without a flashlight 🔦 👀
where u located and how long does it take you to make a set of kitchen cabinets