*Link to More LYRV Plumbing Related Videos* - www.loveyourrv.com/tag/plumbing/ New Pump and Accumulator Tank Installation Videos - www.loveyourrv.com/installing-new-rv-water-pump-usa-adventure-gear-5300/
I had my pumps check valve do the same thing in my 3 month old trailer. Warranty replaced it. It happened again on the new pump but intermittently. So I installed an inline check valve.
Very timely for me; THANK YOU. I replaced my whole pump while in the Desert this last Winter and thought I'd fix the old one when I got home. Also have a spare & wire up a jumper to pump out my extra water I take with us. Forgot about it until I saw your posting. I guess I know what I'll be doing soon.
Thank you Ray. Super vidéo, so many RV’ers have this recurring problem. I bought an in-line check valve but have not gotten around to install it yet. I let the pump resolve itself when I take the road and use it. It clears up and the check valve does it’s job but then it starts again. Especially if I let the reservoir go real low, it can catch some debris. I find it does not take much for that little check valve to let water in. I use to just open the pump and clean it up couple times a year. I flush the fresh tank every year for clean up.
Thank you. I really needed this video. I pulled my pump apart and stretched out the spring just a little to put more tension on the valve. Works fine now. Thank you again. Very informative.
Ray, thanks for this great maintenance tip, I appreciate you taking the time to point these out, yet I wish I could actually get to my pump, as it's buried underneath my sink, without any good access. Either the water heater or the sink will have to come out, neither is desirable. I can see the pump thru a cabinet, under the sink, but there's no chance I'd ever get in there to remove it as I had attempted to access my slide control and just about got my upper body stuck inside; quite some anxious moments! Hopefully, I won't have an issue. Keep these coming! Thanks again!
I think an in-line check-valve is a very good idea. After a whole summer of Camp Hosting in the mountains of Colorado with high mineral levels in the local water supply, the check valves all seem to become leaky. It can be quick surprising to get down to FL in the winter to discover a full tank of fresh water even though we hadn't quite gotten around to filling it yet. We do try to keep a full tank of water at all times as arriving snowbirds love to break off water lines upon arrival to the campsites in the winter, lol. I have conducted many emergency repairs in the middle of the night when we were RV Park campground managers there, LOL. The extra check-valves idea just makes sense just for the PIA effect. I replace our water pump every 3-5 years typically because they are usually worn out and I rebuild them, but sometimes just adding the extra check-valve buys some time before the next repair. Often I am 100 miles from the nearest RV Parts supplier or dealer so an extra pump is always in my storage bay. -David & Sheila Knapp
Thanks for the tip. Running some vinegar into once in a while and letting it sit for a bit should help too. I do that at the same time I do my water heater. www.loveyourrv.com/cleaning-rv-water-heater-tank-vinegar/ Cheers, Ray
Seemed to mount and tighten up no problem. But its a spare pump so haven't tried it to see if it works that way. I wonder if maybe it can do that so the flow can be switched to account for different pipe orientation.
Not sure this happens with every installation, but if your internal check valve is leaking, and you install an inline check valve after the pump, then you can set up a situation where there is a chamber of water trapped between the leaking check valve in the pump and the working inline check valve further along. Pump runs, pressurizes, shuts off, water in this chamber leaks backwords past the internal check valve, pressure drops, pump runs, pressurizes, shuts off, leaks backwards...you can see where this is going... This will then cycle every 20-30 seconds indefinitely. Ask me how I know.
Can you just take off the pressure switch to change the check valve? Pretty sure my o rings are needing replaced or the spring cleaned. The strainer was clean when I checked a couple months ago.
I’m having this problem, and when I run the pump, it never pressurizes and keeps running. The water from my freshwater tank sputters and the air is never purged. Could a partially stuck check valve cause this as well?
I wonder if there is air leak on the input side of the pump like a loose connector or hole in the hose so that it is sucking air in versus water from the tank.
Hi is there a way to fix this if one of the metal tabs break off where the wire connects to the pump? My pressure kept slowing down off and on and when I touched the wire it would work good but when I took the female connector off the metal tab, it bent and cracked off
Even though water pump is working fine, is it a good idea to add an external in-line check valve as an added and inexpensive aid taking the constant pressure off the pump when connected to city water? If so, how far from pump should in-line check valve be? What is a preferred in-line check valve (brand and size)? Thanks much!
If you're RV uses PEX pipe, the easiest install would be a SharkBite check valve amzn.to/3FIb0Nx I'd put in close to the output line of the water pump. The drawback to the extra check valve is adding another thing in the plumbing to maybe clog or leak. Cheers, Ray
Sir, thank you for the video. I have a question. I left my pump near a stream and forgot it. Then bc of the rain I was taken into the stream and submerged under water. I took out. And then it was not functioning anymore. I took off the diafragma, to let it dry. Also I took of the check valve to let it dry in the sun. Any suggestion what else to do? I also see two wires connected to the motor. Should I open the back as well to let it dry?
@@LoveYourRV thank you for your quick reply. I took it all apart with the help of the following video. ua-cam.com/video/NkcuXefnofc/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
Recently hooked up to city water line to flush tanks, after flushing, closed all the faucets and went to make a sandwich . Came back out to a tub over flowing with gray water. Remind you. No running water in the camper. Just left the main city line on. I see some random people on the internet have experienced this same thing. Thoughts? Could this valve be the issue? Pump was not turned on by the way.
No, if pump is bad it would fill the fresh tank not grey. Some how water was filling the gray tank, which is weird. Maybe there is some built in tank flush system in your RV and city water was filling it. Many RVs have black tank flush systems but to have it on the gray is a little strange.
My watertank is full of water. Problem 1. The pump keep on running, I have check there is no leak in all the pipe and there is no water tap is ON. If i closed the valve, pump it will stop? If i open the valve it keeps running? Pump should stop when any of the house tap is not in use but it still keep on running, what should i do? Problem 2. Pump stop running, unless I press the reset button to start or I off the power and ON again waterpump will works, If no water tap is open within 1 hour, pump will not work i have to reset the preassure controler to start the pump again? what went wrong , please advice? thanks
That is a very poorly designed pump as they seem to fail regularly. My pump failed after just three years and very little use. I installed a new pump and rebuilt the old one that I keep as a spare. It is a real bummer to drive for many hours, get a great camping spot and then have your pump fail. Carry a spare.
*Link to More LYRV Plumbing Related Videos* - www.loveyourrv.com/tag/plumbing/
New Pump and Accumulator Tank Installation Videos - www.loveyourrv.com/installing-new-rv-water-pump-usa-adventure-gear-5300/
Nicely done. No BS, no attempts to be funny, good close ups, and very informative. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Cheers, Ray
I had my pumps check valve do the same thing in my 3 month old trailer. Warranty replaced it. It happened again on the new pump but intermittently. So I installed an inline check valve.
BIG Thank you, video well done you just save me 86 dollars for a new pump, solved two issues so I owe you lunch. Well done !!
You're welcome!
Very timely for me; THANK YOU. I replaced my whole pump while in the Desert this last Winter and thought I'd fix the old one when I got home. Also have a spare & wire up a jumper to pump out my extra water I take with us. Forgot about it until I saw your posting. I guess I know what I'll be doing soon.
Thank you Ray. Super vidéo, so many RV’ers have this recurring problem. I bought an in-line check valve but have not gotten around to install it yet. I let the pump resolve itself when I take the road and use it. It clears up and the check valve does it’s job but then it starts again. Especially if I let the reservoir go real low, it can catch some debris. I find it does not take much for that little check valve to let water in. I use to just open the pump and clean it up couple times a year. I flush the fresh tank every year for clean up.
Thank you. I really needed this video. I pulled my pump apart and stretched out the spring just a little to put more tension on the valve. Works fine now. Thank you again. Very informative.
You went way over my head here Ray.😅 I know a lot of people will benefit from this though.
Ray, thanks for this great maintenance tip, I appreciate you taking the time to point these out, yet I wish I could actually get to my pump, as it's buried underneath my sink, without any good access. Either the water heater or the sink will have to come out, neither is desirable. I can see the pump thru a cabinet, under the sink, but there's no chance I'd ever get in there to remove it as I had attempted to access my slide control and just about got my upper body stuck inside; quite some anxious moments! Hopefully, I won't have an issue. Keep these coming! Thanks again!
I think an in-line check-valve is a very good idea. After a whole summer of Camp Hosting in the mountains of Colorado with high mineral levels in the local water supply, the check valves all seem to become leaky. It can be quick surprising to get down to FL in the winter to discover a full tank of fresh water even though we hadn't quite gotten around to filling it yet. We do try to keep a full tank of water at all times as arriving snowbirds love to break off water lines upon arrival to the campsites in the winter, lol. I have conducted many emergency repairs in the middle of the night when we were RV Park campground managers there, LOL. The extra check-valves idea just makes sense just for the PIA effect. I replace our water pump every 3-5 years typically because they are usually worn out and I rebuild them, but sometimes just adding the extra check-valve buys some time before the next repair. Often I am 100 miles from the nearest RV Parts supplier or dealer so an extra pump is always in my storage bay. -David & Sheila Knapp
Did the check valve failing also make the pump loose pressure and re pressure the line almost like there is a leak
I have a brass inline check valve someone gave me IDK what to do with it
I'm hoping this is my issue. Thank you for this video!!!
I had the check valve push past the seat because my water pressure was too high, and got the same effect. The freshwater tank would fill an overflow.
Great video helped me fix mine, thanks very much.
Great to hear!
I have my surflow 4008 as a spare in my van too but may put it back in service and keep the seaflow as a backup IDK yet
Nicely done right I might have to replace my Pressure switch Soon
Adding a water softener will help mitigate potential problems to the water pump from hard water. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for the tip. Running some vinegar into once in a while and letting it sit for a bit should help too. I do that at the same time I do my water heater. www.loveyourrv.com/cleaning-rv-water-heater-tank-vinegar/ Cheers, Ray
This was a really helpful and well done video. Thank you.
You're very welcome!
Thanks Ray!
Great video! Informative and inadvertanly funny. The Pump head assembly is mountable upside-down? Thats what I noticed from the final assembly.
Seemed to mount and tighten up no problem. But its a spare pump so haven't tried it to see if it works that way. I wonder if maybe it can do that so the flow can be switched to account for different pipe orientation.
@@LoveYourRV I wonder myself because the older pumps plumb out in the opposite direction making replacement a bigger project.
Not sure this happens with every installation, but if your internal check valve is leaking, and you install an inline check valve after the pump, then you can set up a situation where there is a chamber of water trapped between the leaking check valve in the pump and the working inline check valve further along. Pump runs, pressurizes, shuts off, water in this chamber leaks backwords past the internal check valve, pressure drops, pump runs, pressurizes, shuts off, leaks backwards...you can see where this is going...
This will then cycle every 20-30 seconds indefinitely. Ask me how I know.
Pressure should be 9 9 1/2 turns clockwise and bypass around 11 12 turns clockwise
Thanks! Always good to learn! Kevin
My Guy! Thanks Bro 😎
Can you just take off the pressure switch to change the check valve? Pretty sure my o rings are needing replaced or the spring cleaned. The strainer was clean when I checked a couple months ago.
Should be able to, if not its pretty easy to take apart and reassemble the rest of the pump.
Thanks for the info. Great video
had this exect issue.
Good info! Thanks
Link to the water inlet screen protector filter screen?
SHURFLO RV Trailer Pump Filter Fresh Water Pump Strainer amzn.to/3Vof9uQ
Nice
I’m having this problem, and when I run the pump, it never pressurizes and keeps running. The water from my freshwater tank sputters and the air is never purged. Could a partially stuck check valve cause this as well?
I wonder if there is air leak on the input side of the pump like a loose connector or hole in the hose so that it is sucking air in versus water from the tank.
How many amps is the 12 volts dc cigarette lighter that your are using?
The max rating is 10 amps
I would be nice if we could see what your doing
Sorry, tried my best.
Hi is there a way to fix this if one of the metal tabs break off where the wire connects to the pump? My pressure kept slowing down off and on and when I touched the wire it would work good but when I took the female connector off the metal tab, it bent and cracked off
Not sure, might be able to repair with solder but it maybe to tightly molded into the plastic to get access or melt the plastic.
Even though water pump is working fine, is it a good idea to add an external in-line check valve as an added and inexpensive aid taking the constant pressure off the pump when connected to city water? If so, how far from pump should in-line check valve be? What is a preferred in-line check valve (brand and size)? Thanks much!
If you're RV uses PEX pipe, the easiest install would be a SharkBite check valve amzn.to/3FIb0Nx I'd put in close to the output line of the water pump. The drawback to the extra check valve is adding another thing in the plumbing to maybe clog or leak. Cheers, Ray
Sir, thank you for the video. I have a question. I left my pump near a stream and forgot it. Then bc of the rain I was taken into the stream and submerged under water. I took out. And then it was not functioning anymore.
I took off the diafragma, to let it dry. Also I took of the check valve to let it dry in the sun. Any suggestion what else to do? I also see two wires connected to the motor. Should I open the back as well to let it dry?
Yes, I'd take it apart as much as you can, dry it out, and inspect it for damage. I doubt the motor is waterproof to a submersible level.
@@LoveYourRV thank you for your quick reply. I took it all apart with the help of the following video. ua-cam.com/video/NkcuXefnofc/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
Recently hooked up to city water line to flush tanks, after flushing, closed all the faucets and went to make a sandwich . Came back out to a tub over flowing with gray water. Remind you. No running water in the camper. Just left the main city line on. I see some random people on the internet have experienced this same thing. Thoughts? Could this valve be the issue? Pump was not turned on by the way.
No, if pump is bad it would fill the fresh tank not grey. Some how water was filling the gray tank, which is weird. Maybe there is some built in tank flush system in your RV and city water was filling it. Many RVs have black tank flush systems but to have it on the gray is a little strange.
My watertank is full of water. Problem 1. The pump keep on running, I have check there is no leak in all the pipe and there is no water tap is ON. If i closed the valve, pump it will stop? If i open the valve it keeps running? Pump should stop when any of the house tap is not in use but it still keep on running, what should i do? Problem 2. Pump stop running, unless I press the reset button to start or I off the power and ON again waterpump will works, If no water tap is open within 1 hour, pump will not work i have to reset the preassure controler to start the pump again? what went wrong , please advice? thanks
That is a very poorly designed pump as they seem to fail regularly. My pump failed after just three years and very little use. I installed a new pump and rebuilt the old one that I keep as a spare. It is a real bummer to drive for many hours, get a great camping spot and then have your pump fail. Carry a spare.