Honda Odyssey Center Rail Door Roller Replacement
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- Video demonstrating how to replace the centre sliding door roller on a 3rd generation Honda Odyssey (years 2005-2010). Te procedure for replacing the roller is the same for all model years listed. The procedure and part # is the same for all trim levels that have a POWER sliding door. For earlier LX models the procedure is very similar except that there are no cables to remove or reinstall.
This repair procedure is identical for both the drivers and passenger side sliding door.
The procedure should take even the most novice mechanics approximately 1.5 hours.
Supplies you will need:
1. Replacement centre rail roller assembly
2. Small flat blade screwdriver
3. 10 mm socket
4. 12 mm socket
5. Phillips screwdrive
6. Masking tape
7. Shop rags or towel
8. Needle nose pliers
9. Hammer
10. Chassis lube (optional)
11. Hydraulic jack with thick towel or shop rag
12. Helper (to help hold the front drive cable during reinstallation of the new roller).
13. Permanent felt tip marker
Thank you very much for this video. My local Honda dealership (Nanuet, NY) said $920 + tax to replace both middle rollers. Bought the part for $55 + 30 min. of labor and done. My left side door gets used 4x more than the right, so only had to do one side. This is the second time this dealer tried to over bill me on a simple repair job.
I took my 2007 Odyssey to the dealer to have the roller replaced. 300 bucks. I ordered the part (new roller) on line for 30 bucks and watched your great video and did the 300 dollar job for 30 bucks! THANKS FOR A GREAT MONEY SAVING VIDEO!
+Ron Hensley $300 bux? Wow that is ridiculous but certainly not unheard of based on my experiences and from others tell me here. Great work on a job well done! Glad you got your door back in working order :)
Was just quoted $371 to replace that same roller on my driver's side door! You are a rock star man! Thank you very much for taking the time to do this video and share it. Seriously awesome!
lol, wow that is a lot of money to replace something so simple. Glad you fixed it yourself!
Just wanted to say thanks. I did this, today, on both sides, and everything went smoothly. Using a floor jack was a great tip, and very much appreciated.
glad you liked my vid! Thanks for watching.
Hello, ordered the part off amazon for $32.64, Dorman 924-129 Sliding Door Roller Right. Watched this great video twice and went to work. I couldn't figure out why it was important to use a marker to mark the bracket before removing, but I am glad I did. Everything was really easy even re-attaching the tension cables, but the door wouldn't quite shut all the way. We noticed the bracket wasn't lined up with our original marks and sure enough that was the difference. I would say this took about 45 minutes and is really easy considering we never work on vehicles. I will say for a pointer on the tension cables after you remove the bracket from the door, then manually slide the bracket back down the trac so you can easily see and work on it. It literally took about 5 minutes to do this part. We stopped the door in the middle of the trac to start this process also. Thanks a ton for the video and saving me some $$$.
Bought a 2007 oddessy 3 years ago with this problem, looked on UA-cam
And I saw very complicated panel removal instructions and said I’ll pass.
Saw your video today, drove to advanced auto $44 , bought the part installed it within an hour of watching the video. Works great, thanks
fixed like a boss! Good for you for getting it repaired PROPERLY on the cheap :)
I can't thank you enough for this video! The passenger-side sliding door was driving me insane. On automatic, the resistance caused by the bad roller constantly engaged the "safety" feature and the door would refuse to either open or close. I thought this would be really involved, but after watching your video, and playing it step-by-step as I was actually fixing it, it was fairly pain-free. The only tough part was removing and reinstalling the cables. Thanks again!
Ben I'm glad you were able to fix your doors. When I first took apart the Odyssey door rail I was a bit leery too on the door falling off the van but after playing around with it for a bit I realized how ridiculously easy it was to replace the rollers. Better you fix it than the dealership.... :)
So thankful for this video...saved us $1800 all we needed was the roller replaced but the shop was trying to tell us we needed to replace the motor and everything. Cost us $40 and the doors work like new
yeah its amazing how incompetent the factory trained techs are. Look at the lowest common denominator first and as a result, that is how I concluded it was a faulty roller. Glad to hear you got it all fixed up on the cheap.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE EFFORT IN POSTING THIS!
07 Odyssey, 20 minute repair (per side) with slight modification to process and some additional info.
Modifications to process (WATCH THE ABOVE VIDEO 1st):
1) keep the power ON to the doors, opening the sliding door window will help both visually and to reattach the cable in the later steps.
2) remove tail light, keep on vehicle, no need to remove completely, to access track panel cover rear bolt
3) open the door just enough to access the track panel cover front screw
- remove track panel cover
- SUPPORT THE DOOR
4) remove trolley mounting bolts from door
- after removing the mounting bolts, the door can be moved. Important for reattaching trolley mount to door
5) using the driver's seat open/close button, open the side door. The trolley will move independent of the door to its open position. I then moved the trolley a few inches closer to the closed position to have a little more cable on the cable's short end..
- the trolley should be fully accessible and not blocked by the door
6) The trolley cables (both sides) have about 1/2 inch (1-2 cm) of spring tension that allows a little play for removal and assembly.
7) remove trolley
8) disassemble old and assemble new trolley
9) Pull on both cables to feel the "spring play". I attached the shorter cable onto the new trolley, then the longer side. For me, this was a 30 second step. I've never done this before. The video helped visualize what was going on and the 'spring play' discovery made this step easy. I used no tools in this step.
I DID NOT APPLY TAPE TO PROTECT THE CLEAR COAT/PAINT
10) insert trolley into track and rear cable into guide.
11) using the driver's open/close button, close the door to move the trolley and stop the trolley (by pressing the open toggle) near the door's mounting position.
- the trolley stayed in the track while it moved to its intended position.
- I also loosely wrapped the trolley with a rag just in case it were to fall out of the track. The rag would protect the paint from the beefy metal mount that would be mechanically pulled along.
12) I pulled the door and had to lift the door (using the jack) to align the door to its proper position and attached the trolley mount back onto the door.
13) test the open and close - nice!
14) I applied a small piece of tape to the edge of the track panel cover front screw mount before reattaching the cover. I found the front screw mount both sharp edged and a tight fit when carefully maneuvering it back into place. The front screw mount bounced off the panel a couple times as I was placing it, The tape on the front screw mount protected from scratching the clear coat.
- I opened the door to its full open position and removed the tape from the mount using a needle nose pliers.
15) put everything back together.
grateful patron wow great detailed write up. Definitely will help others in case they need to print off the procedures! Thank you for sharing!
This is the best video demonstrating this repair. You really explain each step well. It took us less than an hour, thanks to your detailed demonstration.
Glad you liked my presentation. Thank you for watching!
Simply brilliant! Previously I had done the passenger side door the "traditional" way (removing the interior panels to release spring tension etc.) and I just did the driver's side your way, and it worked great! Your shortcut transforms a half-day job into a half-hour job. Can't thank you enough. The conspiracy theorist in me suspects that the "traditional" method was concocted by Honda simply to dissuade owners from performing this simple repair by themselves.
totally agree with you on the Honda stealerships making a simple job into a billable cash cow. Even the guys I know at Honda service don't fix it the "traditional" way yet they bill like they do... shocker huh?
Thanks for the video. Replaced my door roller today and it worked out great. The dealer charged me $245 for the other door, which I had to pay because the motor gave out on me with the door fully opened! Glad to save the money this time.
Wow $245... that's steep but I guess you sometimes have to rely on the dealership to bail you out when you can solve it yourself. But at least you saved on the other door.
Great tutorial. Did mine tonight with a helper and took us about 40 mins. One additional trick to give you more room to work is to slide the door out of the way once the old roller is removed. We gently lifted the door and slid it forward a few inches and rested it back on support til we got the roller reattached to the wires. Gives a bit more room to work in the open as opposed to between the door and rail. Our other door is quirky, so plan to swap out that one next weekend. The one we replaced tonight had both small rollers completely gone! Thanks again for posting the video. Always good to know what you're up against ahead of time.
djaebas glad you were able to replace your rollers. Others that have viewed this video have provided lots of useful feedback on how they fixed their rollers and it would seem that each van's cable system is slightly tighter or looser. I recently did an Odyssey that literally took me 5 minutes to replace b/c there was a tad bit more slack than what I had on mine. Easiest and most inexpensive fix ever! Thanks for sharing your tips. Good luck on the other side :)
I cannot thank you enough. Loved the use of "a suitable whacking device". And, your right, getting the rear cable WAS a pain in the ass. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to get the job done. Once again, thank you.
No thanks necessary. I did this vid because I wanted others to learn how to do it quickly and properly. Thank you for watching!
our sliding door came off last week. this video is great quality and you make it seem so easy. going to show this to my husband today and hopefully get out door fixed. thank you for this!!!!
good luck with your fix. It is really quite easy to complete.
Thank you so much. You do a great service for the community.
I bought the parts for 55 each CDN about 50 USD. I was quoted $770 if I wanted a dealer install for both doors. That was incentive to give this a try. My son and I did both sides in just under 1 hour, and never had any issues. And the tools were pretty common too. Thank you so much for this great video.
Just wanted to say thanks for the video. It helped me replace my roller in just under 2 hours and less than $50
. Put back together and all!! Thanks again for saving this mom of three boys some time and money!!
+Christina Kastendike that's awesome news that you were able to do your own fix! Consider subscribing to get the latest in DIY car fixes!
Excellent, clear, and concise video. I ordered the rollers for both doors on Amazon ($40 total) and installed them yesterday. I'm sure I saved a lot of money doing it myself. Hardest part for me was removing the pins. There was a lot of rust and I had to use a lot of spray lubricant/rust remover then wait for it to work on the pins. Easiest way to position the door was to turn off the power door switch and position it manually. I also made sure to turn off the interior lights so the battery didn't drain - I saw that happened to a guy in another video. It definitely helps to have a second person hold the door in the right spot when putting the bolts back onto the door.
glad you liked the video and thanks for sharing those tips!
Thanks - nice job on the video!
For those asking, the LX (NON-powered door) p/n's for 2005-2010 are 72521-SHJ-A01 (right side) and 72561-SHJ-A01 (left side).
The EX+ (POWERED door) p/n's are 72521-SHJ-A21(right side) and 72561-SHJ-A21 (left side).
+Joe Murray thank you for the part numbers!!
Can the power door parts work for the lx? I'm having a hard time finding the lx parts online and from the dealership they are triple the price!!
PERFECT TUTORING,PERFECT HAND DEXTERITY AND PERFECT EXECUTION. BRAVO.
glad you liked my vid!
Let me add my vote to the many here that appreciated the video. A couple of my tips would include: Use a long-nose pliers to unhook/hook the cables into the bracket, it took less than 15 seconds to disconnect and another 30 seconds to reconnect because of the paint on the new part made seating the 'barrels' more challenging. Also, regarding the long length of cable left hanging after disconnecting...another piece of masking tape holds it nicely! Thanks again!
thanks for sharing your tips and thanks for watching!
Was going to send it to the shop but thanks to your video I'm going to do it myself and save hundreds of dollars.... Thank you
yeah if you have patience and a good set of tools and even a 2nd set of hands that this job is fairly easy to complete.
Big thanks for this video. Just changed the roller arm out in about 35 minutes, and it probably would have been a couple hours without this diy video. Thanks man!
Jason Frye You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this video! Just replaced the rollers on the passenger side and the door is like new. Really great that you took the time to do this for everyone.
glad you liked the vid. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for posting this video. I had no problems. I went through the window to attach front cable first and carefully lowered roller in place and had someone assist me pulling cable from the back while attaching rear cable. I'm sure I saved at least 300 bucks from a trip to the dealer!
ah yes, having a set of helping hands definitely makes re-installation easier. Glad it worked out for you :)
Thanks a lot for sharing! Made my repair a breeze. I followed another youtubers advice using vice grips on the rear cable after wrestling with it for 10 minutes. Helped a lot.
glad you liked my vid. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much! The passenger side took me about 1 1/2 hours, with about 45 minutes of that being trying to reattach the passenger side cable. After doing the passenger side, I was able to complete the driver's side door in a whopping 15 minutes, including attaching the cable (there was a little more slack in that cable for some reason, and it went right back on). On the driver's side, I used a pair of needle nose pliers to grab the cable right next to the "pin". It worked like a champ. My passenger side rollers were completely gone. Only stubs left. No wonder the door wouldn't open. Now, I need to find a video on resetting the doors, as the auto open just beeps and laughs at me. You saved me big bucks, thank you!!
resetting the doors is easy. There is a fuse cover on each side of the van's interior kick well. Slide the cover off and there is a fuse that is for the power door (one on each side). Pull that fuse for 1 minute and then reinsert fuse. Systems should be reset.
Can't like this video enough. Really clear video and audio, takes you step by step with really clear instructions. The only thing I would modify is his instruction to keep the assembly as far to the rear as possible when trying to connect or disconnect the rear cable. I found it easier to do when I moved the whole assembly a little further forward, creating a little more play in the rear cable.
glad you liked my vid. The details are important as are good camera angles and audio :)
Good video. After I removed the roller from the door, I just pressed the automatic open and brought the roller and cables as far back as they go past the door, giving me plenty of room to work with pliers to easily put the cables back on the new roller with a flick of the wrist. Then I turned off the auto-open and moved the roller back into position to bolt it back onto the door. Much easier than trying to remove the inside car panel!
Careful: you shouldn't use pliers on these coated cables...
If you don't pinch the cables too hard with the pliers you'll be fine. You do raise a good point though - be careful and "gentle".
Hi Pierce, Thank you for this video! My friend and I replaced the passenger side roller today in about a half and hour. I commend you for taking the time to post this video in such great detail---we felt confident, and went for it. It was easy thanks to you!!!
LOL, I do it because I hate seeing people get gouged by mechanics that partake in unfair pricing practices. I get mechanics need to make a living but sometimes it is just over the top for some things. I recently had someone go in for the same roller fix and they wanted $300 to do one side. So... if it's just a 1 hour job they're technically charging for 3. What a bag of crap some dealerships are charging.
Thanks a bunch. Following your instructions it was a very easy job. I used a small pair of needle nose pliers to get the cables in and out. It took about 10 seconds. Total time was about one hr, including the time to look for the tools. It cost me $43 in parts. My mechanic had quoted about $350.
+Michele Trovero hahaha isn't it amazing how simple things can be fixed when you're walked through the repair process? Glad you were able to fix your hinges!
Thank for you watching :)
Execllent Instructions. Didn't know you could do it without take the interior door panels off to loosen the cable from the motor. Nice work.
+Asif Iqbal yep, that's the beauty of my fix. You don't NEED all that extra work to take it apart.
Just did mine. Took a little longer than expected working with the 2 cables was really tight. But for $42 part from Amazon it was nice to have the door functional again. Thanks for the video 2 years after the fact.
glad you liked the video and more importantly I'm glad you fixed your doors on the cheap :) 2 years already since I published this video? Wow and still so many views - I've fulfilled my goals of helping others with the same bloody problem as I experienced!
Excellent video. The dealer wanted $350+ each to repair the "loose" center rollers about 1 1/2 yrs ago. They finally bit the dust a week ago, got the parts for $90- (incl shipping). Changed out both in ~1hr 45mins! Even in the current 18 degrees F. Thanks for the clear, concise instruction.
I've replaced those about 5 times on my older van that had 250,000 miles on it. a couple of tips for people.
Once I taped both ends of the cable and used needle nose pliers. That helped a couple of times.
Another time I had to take the entire rear panel from the inside apart and had to push in the plastic pin to release the tension. That was a pain in the azz. Again, thanks for the great videos!
you're most welcome. Thanks for watching!
Hi, you saved me many bucks man! This Odyssey though being a great car - is unfortunately not sold in Europe, I had it imported from the US. So whenever there is something wrong one Honda service point in Switzerland - where there are more of those Odysseys around since Switzerland has no own car industry - charges tremendous amounts. No competition = lots of money. So I had the parts coming from the US and did it myself with the help of your great video. Runs just easy and silently like in the beginning. Thanks alot!!
+Markus Fleck wow you love the Odyssey that much that you imported one to your country? IMPRESSIVE! I guess if I were in your shoes I'd probably do the same so good for you :) Yeah where there is little competition will naturally result in inflated prices. I'm glad you liked my video and more importantly is I'm glad you fixed your own issues :)
Just actually did this on a 2009 Odyssey. Fantastic video, saved me a ton of time instead of taking the inside apart. The cables were a pain, but well worth not having to deal with interior pieces. Thanks for the video!
+El Jefe glad it all worked out for you. Thank you for watching!
Your video saved us $350 for the one door. Now that that one works we will order parts for the second door and replace! Thanks for the great video!
glad it all worked out for you! Saving money is always a good thing!
Just replaced today with this video. The replacement of the right side roller was a two cuss word job. I say that is a great success! at 10 cuss words I am calling a mechanic to do it. Thank you for the video!
Johnny Morrow you're welcome and thanks for watching. Glad it worked out for you! 2 cuss words? Man when I first did this job I think I had like 100+ cuss words b/c it took me so long to do my very first roller with zero guidance.
Good thorough video. One shortcut, I undid the trim on both ends, closed the door and then unlatched it to pop the rear out a bit. The trim comes off with no danger of scratching anything.
Glad your fix worked out for you!
FANTASTIC VIDEO! Thanks for taking the time to make it and post it. Cost me a whopping $34. Just finished the driver's side. Going to bed and will do the passenger tomorrow night. The one I removed had no trace of either roller! Thanks again
Glad you were able to use my vid to fix your own door. Dealership wanted $100's to do the job and I just laughed when I asked...
Thank you very much ! I just did the passenger side in less than an hour following your detailed instructions.
sweet! Glad your doors are working again :)
I haven't tried this yet as I wanted to look it up first, but I have to say, your tutorial is very in depth, with great explanations. I was going to try replacing this assembly due to door rattling that I hear on the passenger side slider. I have ridden in the back and am convinced that this is what it is. Thanks in advance. Let's see if my patience is as good as yours. LOL
+Anthony K. glad you liked my vdieo Anthony. Yeah as the rollers wear out the door will have more play in the track and that rattling could very well be linked to the studs the rollers sit on tha tis bouncing off the inside of the track.
Inspired by this video, I just did my LX / non-powered door.
For the LX you don't even actually have to remove the track panel cover, nor the hinge piece from the door. Just work from inside the van with the door about 1' from fully closed position. Here, the track makes a turn to an open area and is not obstructed by the track cover.
In this position I just popped off the snap ring with needle nose pliers, tapped out the pin with a very small hammer and old screwdriver, tilted out the old roller, tilted in the new roller, replaced pin, replaced snap ring. The new roller wheels sounded horrible until I spray them with grease, but now the door works as smooth as silk. Once I got the door supported, the actual changeout took less than 4 minutes (no exaggeration!)
Also note that the Honda jack that comes with the van can be raised high enough to support the door.
Joe, I figured the same thing - I didn't think a dealership would go through this much trouble to replace a part that they could do in a couple of minutes.
I have a doubt, we still have to release the cable. Is it?
Non-powered version has no cable, but I assume that the powered version does have a cable and is a bit more complicated
@@joemamadd got it. Thanks
OMG Joe, this was probably one of the most useful comments I’ve ever read on UA-cam. I have a 2006 LX and I couldn’t find the correct part for the LX locally. I initially went to autozone and got the part for the EX. After doing more research I found out that the LX uses a different part. The next day I called my local Honda dealer and they wanted $110 for each part. The ones I bought from autozone were only $45 each. I figured that they might still work since they just had the extra area that the cable goes in. I thought I’d give it a try and thanks to your comment, I was literally able to change it out in less than 10 minutes even though I had to take the whole bracket off. Thank you again for your comment. I changed both sides quickly and easily and both doors work so much better now.
There are actually several but yours was in the best detail no doubt. I watched it all the way through and tackled mine the day after and didn't have to refer back to the video because of the excellent detail you provided. Took almost exactly the amount of time you stated. I even went ahead and adjusted the other door after the repair since I learned how it actually worked lol! Those cables were a pain like you said haha!
yeah the cables don't offer much slack BUT just enough to get the job done :)
I had no idea there were other vids. I had to fix my own van and figured I'd share with everyone my own experiences. Glad to know that I'm perceived as the best :)
in 2020 your video still saving us time and $$!! Thank you for creating this. I followed others' suggestions and popped that pin out without removing the bracket from the door.
Glad I could help!
Thank you, I just did the left side sliding door of my Honda with your help from the video few months ago I got my right door done by a mechanic cost me a lot of money and the door is still not functioning properly. I did a better job with your help THANK YOU.
+Mumtaz Khan Glad my video was useful. Consider subscribing as I've got lots of DIY fix it vids!
Great video, huge help! Saved a small fortune in labor and the job only took about 45 minutes (some of that was watching the rest of video after pulling everything apart). Getting the 2nd cable end into the slot was the hardest part, but only took about 5 minutes and a few dozen select words. Just wanted to let you know how fortunate you are to have a light colored Odyssey. Took me a while to find a silver marker that showed up on my blue/green paint. I can't imagine getting it back together had I tried to remove it by just removing the pin, as someone suggested in the comments. Good idea, but that tiny lock clip would have been lost forever if I had tried that.
Many thanks!
glad you were able to fix your van. Yes the guy that removed the pin from the hinge while it was still installed must've been a contortionist as I couldn't possibly imagine removing the clip and pounding out that pin with such little clearance!
For the cover, once you have the bolt and screw out, have the door just barely open. It’s a lot easier to take off and see what you’re doing. Also, it’s easier to have the door open about halfway when taking the cables off. More slack that way. Great video, saved me lots $$$
great tips! Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video. Now, I feel very clear of what it takes to replace the part. I am still not sure of whether to do it myself or hire a professional, but I will certainly will not get ripped off. A local Honda dealership wanted to charge me $420 for one replacement. I would say it fair to pay 1.5 hour of labor plus the cost of the part which is in the neighborhood of $30. Thank you very much for preaparing this video.
+Edgar Trujillo it is totally up to you whether or not you want to tackle it on your own. If you read through the comments on this video you can see many folks do it on their own unusually less than 1 hour. Part cost only and ZERO labor so the savings are HUGE compared to the stealership prices.
Great, detailed video! My husband and I were able to do the repair ourselves by following this. Thanks!
that is awesome! Good work guys!
Thanks for the very useful video. I just replaced my driver side roller assembly. You weren't kidding about the pain in the a$$ to get the cable back together. In retrospect, I should have listened to some other videos that show you how to remove the interior panel and loosen the cable, which would give just enough slack to get it back together without driving you crazy or damaging the cable exterior (both of which I did).
S Gibbard a tiny bit of damage isn't likely going to harm anything. If it really bothers you, you could always go and coat the cable with something (possibly liquid electrical tape?) but it would have to be extremely thin. Releasing the tension on the cables is definitely the "factory" way of doing things but it is so involved to do it that it is no wonder it takes Honda hours to take a job like this hours to complete (assuming they actually don't cheat like how I did using the quick replacement method). I actually nicked my first cable badly the first time but my thinking is that given how much I saved fixing it myself the first time that I could afford to replace the cable reeler should it fail on me. Sorry to hear about your mishap - the first time that happened to me it drove me mental!
Great instructions! Especially in reference to reseating the cable which is the only thing I was a bit perplexed by when I looked at it on my van. Thanks much! I''ll give you a 10 on this!
glad you liked my video. Thanks for watching!
I've been putting up with a poorly-operating door for a while, assuming that it was encountering gravel or some debris on the track. I'd clean it, lubricate it, and it would work for a while. But it has now really failed, and the door won't close automatically. I can see that one of the roller bearings is gone, probably broken off. I'm going to try to get an OEM part tomorrow when the Honda dealer opens and attempt your fix. Thank you ever so much for a superb video that shows all of the steps.
glad you liked my vid. Thanks for watching!
You are the best! Great video, easy to follow instructions, no steps left out. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Not the best, just the most comprehensive! Glad you liked my video.
fifteen minute job. I found it much easier to leave the hinge mounted on the door and simply pop off the c-clip and tap out the pin. reverse was easy. It took longer to remove the glue left behind by the duct tape protection than it did to change the hinge.
Shawn McConnell Good information.
Took about an hour with most of the time wasted just getting the cable back in the slot during reassembly. I did find a system that works. Once you have the cable on the front side in get a pair of needle nose pliers. Now rotate the assembly back towards the cable end. Slip the cable nut in to the bottom then use the pliers to turn the cable so it will drop into the slot. The trick is to turn roller toward the cable and turn the cable towards the roller slot, then it just slides in. Don't forget to lubricate the track the rollers roll in. Mine was dry and that may contribute to the rollers disintegrating. In my case one was completely gone and the other on the way. Thanks again for saving me so much time and money!
Pat
glad you got your rollers all replaced and working again. Yeah that cable CAN BE pesky but once you've done one the other side is MUCH easier. Just patience and time and some logical thinking is all that is needed to fix the issue. Thanks for watching!
I'd love to see a video or perhaps better explanation on this before I start this job = oxlacey@yahoo.com
I just wanted to thank you for this video! It seriously saved me a lot of money, and showed my husband (whose currently away for work) that I'm more capable than he thinks!
Cassie D'Amato great work! Show him some of that girl smarts :)
Just changed the rollers on our 2007 Odyssey. Thanks so much Pierce. You saved me $200 bucks. Took me 20 minutes. I ended up sticking rear cable part way in from bottom, using a screwdriver to push cable up and over into groove. Bam! Done. Great video. Now, I wonder what the wife will let me buy with the extra 2 hundie I saved?......hmmmmmm.....
+Ridesmoothbrother lots of beer or whatever tickles your fancy. I bought myself a new hard drive with the money I saved :)
Thanks so much for this! I did both rollers on my 2007 in about an hour and a half, no problems at all. I also replace the top rollers, as one had bent just enough from the failed middle roller. Thanks so much for the great video.
you're welcome. Glad you were able to fix your own sliding door rollers!
Great tutorial!! I will add the following help: If you do not have a 2nd person to help with the rear cable assembly, you can pull the cable out from the rear with the little bit of play that is in the cable, and keep it from sliding back into the rubber cover by using a pair of locking pliers. This gives you just enough play in the cable to push it into the rear part of the roller assembly bracket. Otherwise, this tutorial is SPOT ON. Well done!!
thanks for the positive comments Tim, glad you found the video useful :)
This worked really great. I was able to replace and put everything back together in about an hour. The changes I made were to not unplug the rear light and to hammer the pin out in place so I could avoid any alignment issues. I used an 18" metal rod to hammer the pin from when I replaced the spring on my garage door. Thanks for the video, hope those tips help!
I did the same just used a nail set to hammer the pin out which saved having to align or mark it. Great video and very easy to follow.
So awesome! I was a little nervous, but I watched your video a few times then dove in...with help from my 8 year old daughter. We did it in
sweet! Glad to hear your van's door is operational again!
Thank you so much for your video. I was able to replace my drivers side center roller yesterday in the sub 20 degree weather. I actually did both sides but realized after dismantling the passenger side that the dealership I ordered the parts from had sent me two drivers side assemblies. So in essence I did both sides yesterday and will do the passenger side again next week when the part arrives. Your video is saving me $400 in labor charges since my mechanic still wanted $200 per door even with the part supplied! Can't tell you how much I appreciate your video!
Hi Jeff, I am glad my video was able to help you save money. That was the ultimate goal which is to inform and train those interested. Why pay someone $100's when for less than $100 you can DO both doors just as good as the next guy :) Thanks for watching.
Cable snapped on mine. Had to buy the whole motor assembly because they don't sell just the cable separately. Popped out the door hinge pin with vice grips instead of unbolting the hinge as shown, and I didn't have to realign the door. THANKS! Video made it easy and my $150 ebay motor purchase saved me over $1000 at the dealership.
whoa snapped cable? that sucks.. then again if a cable was going to break that chances are it was going to break. I'm just glad to hear that you got things up and running again.
Just wanted to post a huge THANK YOU for your time and effort posting this tutorial. I repaired the driver's side effortlessly due to the thorough video you posted. The rollers were both literally gone on ours showing only bare metal so the door wouldn't even open. We've been living with one door for months. I'm so excited to have finally youtube searched. Thank a million!
+Patrick B glad you liked my video and was able to repair your doors. It amazes me at how a simple part like a roller hinge can cause a van so much grief! Thanks for watching and share this vid where you can :)
I'm a 32 year old mother of three and I just did this in one hour thanks to your amazing video!! 🎉🎉🎉
+Kristin Scott wicked job!
Awesome video! I ended not taping the van because I was lazy. I did find taking the cable out of the roller assembly the most difficult, but it's a little easier if you slide the door almost closed and move the roller assembly towards the back where it's all out in the open. I also had to pry the rear light assembly off with a tool. Thank you for making this!
glad you got the van hinge cables all figured out. Did you end up scratching the paint at all in the process if you didn't mask things off?
No, being a little mindful of it was enough to avoid scratching
that's good to hear!
Thank you tremendously. Did it today with a dorman hinge, followed your video exactly. Took less than an hour. The missus is ecstatic. Thanks again!
glad you were able to make your Mrs. happy! Thanks for watching :)
Thank you for this video. Took me about 20 minutes to do the whole replacement thanks to the help of your video. Wife is very happy.
+Ren Tamayo glad it worked out well for you. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing. I like others watched other videos showing dismantling the interior and was deterred. I just did my 2004 in about 30 min. All the replies were helpful. I did it leaving the door bracket on. And that's what took the longest, lining up the holes for the pin. Only thing i found was the forward mount for the rail cover panel broke off its weld, Oh well. Still works.
Thanks again.
glad you got most of the door fixed properly. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much. There are several similar videos but yours is the clearest explanation with the best video. Outstanding job. Thanks again
+paul brock glad you liked my video the most :) Thanks for watching!
This video is excellent. Easy to follow. We did so well replacing one side, we decided to just to the other side as well. Thanks for the video!
Glad you found the video useful! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. Very detailed and easy to follow. Watched it once and was able to go replace mine without problem. Ordered the part for $40 where the dealership (called them just for kicks and giggles) said they could do it in 2 hours for $275.
+Travis Loudermilk yeah it's crazy what they charge. I actually like my local Honda dealership a LOT but it is still love/hate. Love their parts team and partially love their service department. I just don't like their rates...
Adding my notes from performing the job...
Had to replace on both sides. Drivers side hinge pin was fused into the bracket, also had to use a dremmel to cut apart the piece that gets disposed of to free up pin.
Found it easier to only open door about a foot before lifting with jack and removing slider bolts form door. Once bolts were removed was able to slide the slider towards rear of vehicle giving more room to work with when removing and reconnecting the slider cables.
So as to not drop cable ends and have to fish them back out found the clips that the trim piece slip onto were perfect cable holders while swapping the hinge plate on the roller bracket.
Thanks for the video, removed a lot of the guesswork I would have had to do had I gone into this venture blind.
glad you were able to fix your doors. Yes each van I've found that I've done this replacement on seems to be slightly different than the next. I guess it could be related to how much slack there is and that tension winder inside the van. I've done vans where it was SUPER easy to remove and some that were tougher than heck. YMMV. Goo job.
Thanks for the great, detailed instructions. Your honesty about the difficulties with the cable was even helpful in keeping me from getting frustrated.
+Geoffrey Wehrman yeah, I'll be honest, it was truly a PITA when I did my very first one b/c I had no guidance from someone. I've become an expert on replacing these rollers and now I can do one in 10-15 without even trying... :)
This was a great video that clearly and plainly explained the process for all of us novice mechanics. Thanks for taking the time to produce this!
Glad you liked the video! There is no point doing a UA-cam video if you're not going to simplify it or provide enough explanation on how to fix it safely and properly. Thanks for watching!
Outstanding demonstration on how to replace the roller hinge. I am having the same issue with my 08. I think this will be a breeze, following your lead. I do have to tell you though, your change in demeanor, after your frustration with the cable, subtle as it is, made me laugh out loud. Nice job.
lol, you caught that in my vid huh? yes it was a B*TCH to get back on at first b/c I was learning myself but geez I was ready to kill someone until I figured out the "whys" it was lacking slack. Just work closer to the van to buy you that extra 2mm of slack need and problem solved :)
Great video! Clear and concise. Excellent dialog. Thanks pierce!
Thanks! Glad you liked my video!
Thank you for taking the time to do this tutorial - it was clear and concise including calling out what size ratchet sockets to use. I replaced both roller door assemblies today in less than two hours and saved the $600 labor that I was quoted. I'm handy and this was not that hard to do at all. I did warn my wife that if she heard any choice words it would be me trying to get the cables re-inserted and not to worry. But fortunately both sides behaved themselves and as recommended in the other comments, having the window open was very helpful.
Instead of using layers of masking tape to protect the finish, I used several folded layers of brown craft paper and only had to frame the paper with masking tape. Removal was a lot easier and I was able to re-use the craft paper to do the other door. One of the taillights was stubborn and I found that by gently rocking the taillight repeatedly in all directions while tugging to pull it out, it eventually loosened up and came out after about 20 -30 seconds.
sweet! Glad it worked out for you. Craft paper huh? Never thought of that but then again when I did this video I didn't know what to expect so I covered everything BUT the bad thing was that I used duct tape which is not good if it rips the paint off the metal. NEVER use duct tape (which I said in my vid not to use) - I coincidently ran out of my normal painters tape the day I did this vid... :p
Great video!! Easy to understand on how and what to do, and when. I've never replaced one of these before. Went to a local shop was and they wanted to charge me 6 hours to do both sides $744.82 and $152.58 ($897.40)for the parts. So I ended up watching this video and doing it myself and it cost me $84.18 parts and 2 hours of my time to install BOTH. Savings of $813.22 Thanks a million!! I give you mad props!!
Thanks so much for this video. I just completed the job on my 2007 Odyssey. Reconnecting the cable was a bitch, but it came off so it has to go back on. I found removing the taillight one of the more difficult steps. There is a pin that holds it pretty tight. I used a paint can opener wrapped in a paper towel to tug it loose. Fairly smooth from there on. Great video!
yeah that tail light pin was so tight on my Odyssey that the first time I ever removed the tail lamp housing to change out a bulb that I actually snapped the tail light in half from me just pulling on it! $175 dollars later I had a new tail light but before re-installing it I put a blob of silicone grease on that plastic retaining pin and ever since then it's been easy to remove.
"A suitable smacking device..." One of the best phrases I've heard in a while.
lol.
Thank you so much. Just finished. Your video gave me the info and confidence I needed. Anyone even remotely considering doing this should jump in without any hesitation.
I, like Shawn M., left the hinge on the door. No problem getting the pin out, but took some doing to re-install.
You rock.
Just another thankful DIYer commenting on how much I appreciate this video tutorial! I do a lot of my own repair work, including timing belts and other involved jobs. But I hate removing interior parts because things are never quite the same afterward. Doing it your way is _by far_ the most preferable way to replace these hinges. BTW, I was able to pop the second cable end into the hinge bracket in a few seconds. I used a large pair of needle-nose pliers to hold the cable about 1/2" back from the little metal cylinder that goes in the hole. That allowed me to pull that bit of cable around and into the slot very easily. I was pleasantly surprised by that! Also, thanks for the tip about masking off the area with painter tape. That really helped save my paint.
glad you liked my vid. I am just a DIYer that likes to share information. I learned by watching others and through my own trial and error and found out about 20 years ago that I was good at what I did so I just kept fixing more and more cars. I can't bear the thought of paying the stealership to do the work as they charge RIDICULOUS money for such a simple job.
Glad you were able to fix your own doors. Thank you for watching and consider subscribing to my channel :)
This video was very helpful. Have to replace drivers door hinge. If I run into any different problems I’ll be sure to post about it!
glad you found the video useful. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video!!! Saw several others but yours had great lighting and detailed explanations!! Wonderful!!! Now to fix mine!!!
+Mark Johnson Glad you liked watching my video! Consider subscribing to my channel to get the latest in DIY fixes :)
Great video - easy to follow. Thank you!
After following the steps, my door didn't close completely (automatically). Manually, the door worked fine. To solve this problem, I had to remove the negative battery connection for ~1 minute and reconnect. The door once again automatically close and locked completely.
Chris Desforges Ah yes, the door cycle calibration/reset procedure - you can also do the same by removing the fuse for the power sliding door in the lower left or right kick panel - depending on which door you're working on. Glad it all worked out for you.
Thank you for your video, it made our process go much better, with fewer scratches and oops! Ken R from Marlborough, MA
Ken Roberts glad you found it useful. Thank you for watching :)
Absolutely THE BEST video on how to do this! This man knows what he is doing! Thank you sir!!!!!
lol, not sure if its the best but I know its probably the only vid around...
piercedasian Thank you so much for the video! Your walkthrough was perfect and allowed me to follow each step along with you. My wife may actually allow me to continue to work on her car!
A couple of items to note:
1) I also found that the closer the nylon rollers were to the slot, rotating the bracket to keep it as close to it's natural position, the easier it was to install the cables. Or I just have tiny fingers.
2) One thing to add to the preparation section: When you are marking the half circle cut-outs with a marker, you may want to add some additional duct tape or masking tape to the inside of the door panel around the bracket with the 12mm bolts. I ended up scratching up the beveled portion of the inside of the door while I was removing/reinstalling the cables.
Once again, thank you for your excellent tutorial Pierce!
Hi Jamie, glad you liked the video. Thanks for the suggestions to our other viewers. I wasn't sure how to film me trying to install that cable as the fit was quite tight and I had no real means to re-attach that cable and show my viewers how it was done. You're absolutely right in that the closer you can work with the roller hinge in it's neutral position the easier it is. As for the masking, fully agree as I did another Odyssey door fix and that is exactly what I did. Fortunately for my own van I was able to not scratch up my door but I can easily see how that is possible.
Love it!!! I have watched a lot of 'How To' videos and your is one of the best. Not too much dribble, just useful and direct instructions, great camera work, great sound and dialog, and I love your vocabulary, I'm very impressed. I'm also going to do my door roller now and thanks to you it will be a breeze!
Thank you so much for this video - it really helped me tackle and complete this job today. The tip to cover the paint with tape saved me some scratches for sure!
One tip I can offer from another youtube video - when you go to remove the trim cover for the roller mechanism channel - just close the door until the rearmost edge kicks out before it closes completely, and you'll find the trim completely exposed for easy removal.
glad you liked my video! Great tip on the trim cover. Next time I have to replace another roller I'll give that shot.
YOUR INSTRUCTION AND VIDEO IS VERY GOOD !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is a great video. It appears this a problem with the door mechanism & your procedure worked perfectly. The hardest part was removing the 'arrowhead ' plug holding the tail light in place because there is nothing to hold. Thanks
Yes I actually broke one of my tail lights b/c of that annoying arrowhead pin that holds the tail light in place. It is VERY tight if you have never removed the light before. However, doing other vans I have found that patience and persistence will get the light off with no damage just pull straight back and wiggle if necessary. Prior to re-installation put a blob of grease on the end of the arrow head and next time should you need to remove the light it's super easy!
piercedasian What is the Arrowhead pin, where is it located and how does one avoid breaking it ? Tx.
it literally looks like a tiny arrow head on the outer edge of the tail light assembly. It is what the tail light would "latch" onto to hold it in place without the screws. Think of it like a peg. How to not break it? Simply pull the tail light straight backwards and never outwards towards the sides of the van.
piercedasian I see why its called an arrowhead. Mine did not stick at all though, as I think the bulbs have been replaced a few times. Just popped off.
consider yourself lucky! I've worked a few odysseys and if it is the first time the tail light is coming off then man alive can it be a PITA. I actually BROKE one of my tail lights once because that little arrowhead pin would NOT let go. I lubed up the arrowhead pins with some silicone grease for ease of removal for next time.
Thanks for the video. I just did this in 45 minutes. Save myself $230.00!
Sweet! Since you've saved so much go an buy yourself something nice!
Hey man, thanks for the video. I need to do this to my wife's van. This was very helpful.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
Good job - thank you for making this video. My door just blew right off the hinges and tore up the paint where the roller dug into it. So I am going to replace that this weekend.
yikes, how on earth did that happen? Hopefully you weren't actually driving when it came apart.
Great video. I had changed the driver's side roller last week based on a video that required the panel removal. It took me about 2.5 hrs, and the panel didn't go back in perfectly (which for a 2010 Odyssey Touring I'm OK with). I wondered if there was a way to do it without the panel removal, and this video gave me confidence to try it. The whole job took about 30 minutes. It was 15 minutes of frustration getting the cable in right, but well worth it. The duct tape and marker were great tips. Thank you!
glad you liked the vid and glad you saved yourself 2 hours of work that wasn't needed! The panel removal method is technically the factory approved way of servicing the rollers but as you have experienced yourself it is something totally unnecessary.